19 Eat. Drink. (614).
"Your body is not a temple. It's an amusement park. Enjoy the ride." – Anthony Bourdain
Winter 2019
From the Editor
“W
here do you wanna eat?” “I don’t care.” “Ok, how about Mexican?” “We just had Mexican a few days ago!” The consistent, eyerolling debate between couples of where to gather their grub is a relentless state of being for those lucky enough to have control over their diets, and the budget to wield a vote with their dollar. Let us keep this in perspective. It is, truly, a good problem to have. Here in the capital city we are—to put it practically— spoiled for choice. Whether it’s empanadas stamped with our dear city’s name, coffee served from a vintage airstream trailer, or beer brewed with wild beastly yeasts, Columbus has no shortage of novel food and beverage experiences at every turn for the average city dweller. But beyond fun, food stands steadfast as a universal language. More than just gas in the belly tank, food is a means of teaching, and a lifestylechanging facet of self care. This season, we profile a man on a mission to spread the gospel of fresh food to the masses, in an effort to slow and stymie the growth and effects of cancer in people’s bodies and lives. (“Killing Cancer with Kale,” pg 98) It is a home to return to when you have left the nest for a while to explore the world. (“Take Five,” Pg 46) Or a dish that calls to you from your very DNA, and traditions passed down through family that tie generations together. (“Grains of Tradition” pg 46) Even diets that have been in the past considered fringe, like veganism, are now
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Publisher Wayne T. Lewis
Editor-in-Chief Jeni Ruisch Assistant Editor Laura Dachenbach PHOTO EDITOR Brian Kaiser Lead photographer Tommy Fiesel Contributing Photographers Emma Kate Low, Katie Forbes, Megan Leigh Barnard, Collins Laatsch
Contributing Writers Mitch Hooper, J.R. McMillan, Jaelani Turner-Williams, Regina Fox, Philip Kim, Aaron Wetli, Elizabeth Sensky, Sara Stacy, Emily Arbogast, Jess Peer, Anne Vasey
Creative Designers Jess Wallace Sarah Moore graphic Designers Hugo Albornoz, Ryan Caskey Advertising Director Meggin Weimerskirch Photo by b r ia n ka iser
gaining universality in their applications and enjoyment. (“Woodhouse Vegan” pg 42) On the booze front, we revolve our social calendars around gathering together in celebration. For those of us that choose to imbibe, our field of choices in Columbus is constantly growing. From new breweries (New Suds on the Block,” pg 102), to tried and true places that will extend your social calendar into the winter months by providing you with shelter from the cold, cold storm (“Hot Spots for Spirits” pg 64). We have ample occasions for exploration and celebration within the city limits, and increasingly, without. Explore the pages herein we have created for you, dear readers, from a labor of love, and use them as your city guide. So far, they’ve all passed muster with us, and that’s a seal of approval you can count on, at least until the next time comes for you to make a decision on where to get your next libation. Hey Columbus, let’s go grab a bite. Yours, Jeni
Jeni Ruisch, Editor-in-Chief
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SENIOR Account Executives Derek Landers, Liza Worthington Account Executives Becky Hart, Nikki Harris, Maria Kritikos Oakes Manager of Audience Development Stephanie McFarland VP of sales and Marketing Lindsay Press
(614) Magazine 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215 Office: (614) 488-4400 Fax: (614) 488-4402 Email submissions to: editor@614columbus.com www.614columbus.com
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Old School/ New School 12
Seasons Eatings 54
App Hop 16
From Neighborhood to Table 60
Come along on our quarterly journey to two diametrically opposed, yet synchronistically complimentary food and beverage establishments
A stepping stone sojourn through German Village and beyond, taking samples along the way
Get the low-down on the changes of the season for some of our favorite spots to spend a winter’s eve
Comune, a new, plant-based concept takes Parsons by storm
Brewed to be Wild 24
Antiques on High turns what was old into something new
Secret Ingredient 28
Take a delicious visual tour through the wildly successful Sweet Carrot
Comfort Classics 38
Sweet Surrender 68
Anthony Thomas Candy Factory has been making sugary dreams come true in central Ohio for nearly a century, get a peek at their inner workings
Time Flies When You’re Having Rum 72
Warm up your insides with an itinerary of internal heating elements
A guide to a few types of the cane cocktail that you can find on Columbus shelves, according to a local connoisseur
Woodhouse Vegan Plants Roots 42
In Hooch Heaven 74
The family affair vegan powerhouse moves into its own brick-and-mortar after occupying satellite spaces
Raising the Barroluco 50
One of Columbus’ most popular food trucks parks in a permanent spot
Peruse the shelves of a carefully curated wine collection in German Village
Praise the Lard! 76
Chew the fat with a hog farmer, and examine the porcine treasure that has been forgotten by time
Grains of Tradition 82
A writer connects with his familial roots with a dish served up at New Year’s, time and time again
Kitchen Kids 86
Piccadilly Cafe not only serves up sumptuous food for parents and tots, it lets the little ones in on the cooking process, too
Beyond The Baked Potato 90
Explore some more unconventional crops that can expand your palate as you spot-hop around the city grabbing bites throughout the winter
Cover Photo of Sweet carrot by brian kaiser
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contents
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C alendar 1
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By Stock & Barrel staff
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1.25
1.20
1.21-26
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Whole Hog Butchery with Six Buckets Farm
(614) Restaurant Week
Worthington Bourbon Tasting
Forgotten 4-Paws 7th Annual Wine Tasting
Location: Varies Time: Varies Admission: Free Web: eat614.com
Location: Porch Growler,
Location: Meza Wine Shop,
Location: 1400 Food Lab, 1400 Dublin Rd.
Time: 9:30 a.m.—3:30 p.m. Admission: $50-$650 Web: 1400foodlab.com/ events-calendar
Satisfy your needs for quality, affordability, sustainability, and bacon all at once. Go the whole hog with Seth and Lyndsey Teter of Six Buckets Farm who will teach you how to break down an entire hog (something they do quite frequently) and make your own pork chops, pork tenderloin, spare ribs, sausage, and bacon while letting nothing go to waste. Bring your own cooler (ice is provided) and leave with 70-80 pounds of pork and the know-how it takes to go farm-to-table all by yourself.
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Community and compassion come together as 120+ of Columbus’ best restaurants break out the silverware for Restaurant Week, copresented by (614) Magazine and Marathon Petroleum Corporation. During the last full week of January, you can enjoy a 3-course meal for just a fraction of the price. Not only will your restaurant bill get a break, but you can earn $1 for NC4K (No Kid Fights Cancer Alone) for each Instagram photo you tag with #EAT614 (up to $5000).
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890 N High St. Time: 6 p.m.
Admission: $25 Web: columbus10for10.com Pop-up culture is alive in the Cbus, even in the cold. Join Columbus 10 for $10 Wine Tastings for their neighborhood-based whiskey tasting series that travels around Columbus each month. January’s event will feature 5 new bourbons to keep you warm during long winter nights so you can skip that distillery tour you were planning.
48 N State St.
Time: 7 p.m. Admission: $25 Web: forgotten4paws.org Calling all animal lovers! Try a new label or two and help some forgotten pets find forever homes. For $25, enjoy hors d’oeuvres and sample 5 different wines in the fun and intimate Meza Wine Shop located in Uptown Westerville, stocked with over 800 labels. Your tasting fee will also enter you in a raffle for wine-themed baskets. All proceeds will help Forgotten 4-Paws, a non-profit, 501(c) (3), volunteer-run animal welfare organization care for and foster animals as they find their forever homes.
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Kids Etiquette Class
Maple Madness Community Festival
Location: Local Roots, 15 E Olentangy St., Powell
Time: 5:30 p.m.—7:30 p.m. Admission: $75 Web: localrootspowell.com/ events
Interpersonal skills are important, and it’s never too early to start polishing them, particularly at the dining table. Cathi Fallon of The Etiquette Institute of Ohio will teach children ages 7 to 14 about table conversation, table setting, ordering, paying for a bill, and tipping while they practice with a 3-course meal.
Location: Camp Ken-Jockety, 1295 Hubbard Rd., Galloway Time: 10 a.m.—3 p.m. Admission: $6 at registration, $8 at the door Web: gsoh.org In search of something sweet? Gotta shake off that cabin fever? Hosted by Camp Ken-Jockety & The Elam Environmental Center and the Girl Scouts of Ohio’s Heartland, this outdoor adventure includes everything you’d want to know about maple syrup production both past and present. You’ll take a hike through the KenJockety maple grove, see some trees on tap, and visit the wood-fired evaporator and the sugarhouse. Warm pancakes will be available for an additional cost and can be preordered. Of course, madein-Ohio maple syrup will be available for purchase.
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Old School New School
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Big times in Bexley By Aaron Wetli | photos by brian kaiser
Welcome back to Old School/New School, your local guide for a great dinner and nightcap. The rules are simple: your destinations for dinner and a nightcap can be either an older or newer concept, but they can’t be both and you have to be able to walk from one destination to another. For this edition, we are having dinner at a Bexley institution followed by glass of wine at the new place next door. This is going to be fun.
GIUSEPPE’S RITROVO 2268 E Main St.
Giuseppe’s Ritrovo is the kind of place that is hard to imagine the neighborhood without. The kind of place where, according to owners Vesna and Giuseppe Mangano, dinner isn’t served to customers, but to friends. It’s the kind of place where you can celebrate a baptism or celebrate the memory of a family member. You are going to dig it. Originally opened twenty-two years ago, Giuseppe’s was first a coffee shop with a takeout selection of prepared food including pastas, sauces and sandwiches. It didn’t take long for word to spread or for customers to start asking for the food to be prepped and served to them. You know, like in a restaurant. According to Vesna, “In less than two weeks, we were making food for customers. We didn’t have any idea what we were doing and for a time served the meals on our wedding china.” As business grew, operations expanded and eventually the current model of Giuseppe’s was opened. Sporting a small but sleek patio with a view of Main Street, a large curated (don’t say stocked) bar, and both a dining room and a private dining area, Giuseppe’s simultaneously looks classic and modern and offers both contemporary and classic Italian fare representing all Italian regions. Pro tip: Get the lamb shank special if it is offered during your next visit. The recipes can be attributed to Giuseppe himself, who in his own words: “has been around food my whole life.” Raised in the region of Reggio Calabria (the most southern tip of the Italian boot), Giuseppe can make all things Italian, reps the spices from his home in the South of Italy, and endorses classic entrees. Vesna, on the other hand, is fond of the pizzas, which led to some good natured banter between the two about the challenges of working with your spouse. Finishing each other’s sentences and interjecting themselves into each other’s anecdotes, the Manganos are truly a team and the restaurant is certainly a family business—so much so that both of their fathers have worked in the restaurant, along with Vesna’s brother and a host of other family members. Serving up classic Italian comfort food, treating customers like family, and having the ability to make each other laugh has led to the Manganos hosting more than a few famous clientele dining at Giuseppe’s. In 2015, The Rolling Stones (specifically Ronnie Wood and Mick Jagger) stopped by for dinner and according to their road manager, had the most normal dining-out experience in decades. John Glenn and wife Annie were regulars for years, and unlike The Stones, Glenn was always happy to sign an autograph or to talk to a child about being a real life spaceman. Now that you have met some awesome people, eaten a great meal and imbibed a top-shelf cocktail, let’s walk outside and travel one door to the west for that nightcap. 614columbus.com winter 2019
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HOUSE WINE 2262 E Main St.
House Wine has been in Worthington for more than a decade, but their Bexley location has only been open since July of 2018 (therefore qualifying for my arbitrary rules). However, in that short amount of time, House Wine has made a splash on the local scene and is helping introduce locals to affordable, quality wines as well as local and regional craft beer. House Wine is quaint and cozy and makes the most of their limited space. Four seats at the bar, three small tables, and one large table that is perfect for a group of eight, are your seating options. And that makes House Wine a great location for that cozy afterdinner glass of wine. Or bottle. That’s why Uber was created. House Wine certainly has the ability to be pretentious, but isn’t—the result of owner/operator Donnie Austin’s philosophy on owning a wine shop. Austin reports, “I want to offer my customers great wine and great beer without breaking the bank.” Mission accomplished. And Austin should know what makes wine great. He quit his job as an engineer at Honda to follow his wine passion, which would eventually lead to becoming a sommelier and then opening two wine shops. A draw to the store and a fun way to learn about wine is the Enomatic wine dispenser, which in essence is a vending machine for wine. Offering sixteen different varietals and coming in one, three, or five ounce pours, this machine (along with assistance from a store employee to help guide you) is a great way to sample different nightcaps. I know some readers are thinking about how they love wine, but that their significant other loves beer, and therefore this Old School/New School may not be for them. No worries friend, House Wine has you covered and offers eight taps of craft beers as well a full selection of chilled cans and bottles. You can even fill up your growler at House Wine. You just have to take it home to drink it. House Wine does not offer food selections, but does allow for you to bring in food from any local Bexley restaurant. In fact, you can even place a carry out order at Giuseppe’s and bring it into House Wine to eat. (Although, you might miss seeing Mick Jagger.) So there you have it: a blueprint for some delicious grub while making new friends, followed by a quaint and cozy wine nightcap. Park once, drink twice, support local. 614columbus.com winter 2019
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A reverse crawl from youngest to oldest, of the city’s finest high-end restaurants
The winter months are upon us. The grills are put away for the season, the holidays have passed, and Columbusites everywhere are preparing for the inevitable and depressing gray days that lie ahead. Alas, it is a burden that we have all grown accustomed to, or for those of you recently relocated here from warmer and greener parts of the country, eventually will grow accustomed to. It’s no secret that winters in the midwest can be a drag— snow and salt trucks everywhere ruining the underbellies of our vehicles, Urban Meyer retiring, Super Bowl ads that just don’t live up to the golden era of the 90’s, lackluster Super Bowl halftime shows that just don’t live up to the golden era of the 90’s, music that just doesn’t...wait, I’m getting old... I digress. Fortunately for Columbus, our restaurant scene has just what you need to fill your bellies, warm your soul, and help you get out of those winter blues, if even just for a night. New spots continue to open, and even old favorites have new menu items to shake up your taste buds and ignite your inner foodie. The days of hanging out on a patio may be months away, but you’re in for a real treat if you brave the cold and head out to some of the best food the city has to offer. “But wait Tommy, where should I go? I mean, you said it yourself that there are tons of great places opening, I can’t get to them all!” Well, I’m glad you brought that up Kevin, because that’s where an App Hop is the perfect way to start experiencing new kitchens you haven’t been before and taste what’s new at some of your old favorites! An App Hop (if you haven’t read this feature in past issues) is a food crawl of sorts, where you the reader seek out small and shareable plates that are unique to the restaurants you visit. Order some interesting cocktails or wine to complement the food, then move on to the next place. There aren’t any set-in-stone rules about it, but here are some ideas that my wife Meredith and I have been implementing since we started making this our favorite date night more than 10 years ago. • P ick a neighborhood to explore. Not only does it make sense logistically, since your goal is to hit 3-4 restaurants in one night, but it also forces you to have a look at some lesser-known or new joints you haven’t been to before. • L imit your consumption. Don’t get too full at the early stops—leave room for what’s to come. Try not to go overboard on your drinks either. Share a cocktail if you can. • T uesdays through Thursdays are great nights of the week to App Hop. Fewer people in the restaurant means more attentive and faster service. • G ive your server a heads up when you sit down that you’re only in for a couple small plates and a drink or two. Hell, tell them you’re doing an App Hop! They might not know what your talking about at first, but they’ll love the idea once you explain it. Side note: tip your server well! •
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Ok, now that the formalities are done, let’s get to the good stuff. I’ve been holding off on doing an App Hop in German Village for a long time purely out of the fact that everyone knows what’s going on down there and I wanted to highlight other neighborhoods and restaurant groups that don’t get as much attention as they deserve. But, with a few new gems that have opened recently, I just couldn’t hold back anymore. We started our Hop at Comune, followed by South Village Grille, jumped over to Ambrose & Eve and ended the evening at G. Michael’s. Here’s what you should know.
room is. The kitchen is upstairs, and even with a dining room filled with people, it’s refreshing to be able to have a conversation with the person across from you without having to yell over the bustle of the back of the house.
Comune The recently-opened Comune features a plantforward menu and a bar that rivals some of the best in town. Meredith and I dined there for the first time back in December and since then my bank account keeps getting lower and lower due to the number of times we’ve been back. Everything there is just so damn good. You’ll like this place even if you’re a meatatarian like me. The fact that their entire menu is plant-forward doesn’t eclipse the bigger picture that the food is really just amazing food and not a bunch of gimmicky replacement meat and cheese (which is, in my humble opinion, NOT food). What Comune is doing, is real food. On this Hop, we shared the roasted acorn squash and the grilled trumpet mushrooms. To drink, we sipped on the Queen Anne’s Revenge, We Got the Beet, and the I Have the Pawa. If you don’t already have ras el hanout in your pantry, go out to the store and get some of this amazing North African spice mix now. I don’t care if you get it from the North Market or from Kroger (yeah they sell it!). Just get it. It works on everything! Needless to say, I was thrilled that Comune paired it with the lentils and squash. The grilled trumpet mushrooms are so meaty, have so much “grill” to them, that you’d think there was steak on the plate. The cocktails are equally impressive—hard to choose a favorite out of the three, but I especially liked the avocado fat-washed tequila in the Pawa that uses frozen avocado pits as the ice, which is kinda ballsy. (You’ll see what I mean.) Finally, one of the things I think you’ll love about Comune is how quiet the dining 18
South Village Grille After Comune, we headed over to South Village Grille on the Southwest corner of Thurman and Jaeger, catty-cornered from the also newish Fox in the Snow. SVG, a passion project and widely-different concept from the folks that brought us Local Cantina and Old Skool, took over the space that Easy Street Cafe filled for years (whose favorites can be found just a couple blocks away at Red Brick Tap & Grill) back in 2017. Filling the shoes of a long-established favorite in any neighborhood can be a challenge, but Chef Josh Wiest has been up to the task and when I say that his experience shows, I really mean that it shines.
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A perfectionist at his craft, Josh was a student of the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan, and has done stints at the Plaza Hotel in New York as well as G. Michael’s (more on them later). Everything on SVG’s menu looks amazing by description, but after some recommendations from our server we ended up ordering the brussels, pork belly, and ratatouille. Growing up I never enjoyed brussel sprouts. It wasn’t until I was in my 20’s that my Uncle Dan did a pan of sprouts tossed in olive oil, salt and pepper, and roasted them in a wood burning pizza oven that changed my mind forever. I loved them. That being said, I know from conversations over the years that people tend to fall into two categories: those who love them and those who despise the little green gems that they are. These brussels though are good enough to satisfy the latter due to the variety of ingredients included in the dish. The lemon thyme cream sauce, butternut squash, craisins and goat cheese balance out the otherwise bitter taste (especially if you’ve only ever had them steamed), while the pancetta adds some welcomed saltiness. As a whole, it ends up as a beautiful combination of rich, sweet, salty, nutty, and creamy that’s hearty shareable. Even before our server suggested the pork belly, I knew we had to have it because, well, it’s pork belly, and nothing screams “satisfy your winter hunger” like a well made piece of fatty heaven. SVG’s take on it includes an Asian slaw with plenty of zest and acidity that cuts through the fattiness of the pork that is glazed to perfection. Finally, we shared a plate of the ratatouille (yes, like the movie) and oh...my...it is awesome. If what you want is an incredibly satisfying dish of marinated portabella caps on top of delicious vegetables on top of even more delicious stone ground grits, then this is for you. It’s perfectly sized to share. In fact, we ate our fill and still had some to take home for lunch the next day. I’d be remiss not to mention SVG’s cocktails. We sipped on the Woolly Sweater, Recreation, and Mad Hatter, all of which can be found at the top of their cocktail menu. Just like wearing white after labor day, forget the “rules” and enjoy a solid eggnog past •
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the holiday season. SVG’s Wooly Sweater nog has a single cube of ice and complete with a stick of black licorice. The Recreation may employ a bit of gimmicky dry ice, but let’s be honest, who doesn’t appreciate a little show with their cocktail? I know I do. Beyond that, the flavor profile of the drink is distinct, due to the sfumato they use. If you don’t like them strong, this one might not be for you, but it was for me. If you’re looking for something a little more approachable for your sensitive palate, but equally palatable, try the Mad Hatter, a drink that combines bourbon, nocino, carrot juice and lemon, topped with dehydrated carrot pulp. It’s colorful, not too heavy on the booze, but not too sweet either. It was our first time at SVG, and it certainly won’t be our last. South Village Grille After a wonderful outing at SVG, we took a Brewery District detour to check out the very brand-new Ambrose & Eve on S High St. The concept by chefs Catie Randazzo and Matthew
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Heaggans, is a true testament to a chef-driven menu, and one that they’ve been tirelessly working towards. No doubt you’ve heard Randazzo and Heaggans’ names a lot over the past couple years, and rightfully so. The two have been separately, and jointly, hustling and killing it in the city’s food scene for a long time. Ambrose & Eve seems like the perfect culmination of something that they’ve always wanted to do: a menu filled with things that they would want to cook for themselves. While there, Randazzo even mentioned a reviewer that said that the food “wasn’t for them,” and that that was OK. And you know what? It is ok. Columbus dining in general has for too long held the idea everything on the menu must be acceptable to the masses, and it just isn’t true anymore. People in this city are, more than ever, excited to try new things. The number of people being relocated to Columbus from larger metropolitan areas practically demands it, and I think that it’s a challenge that more and more chefs in town are eager to •
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take on. Randazzo and Heaggans are “stepping up to the plate” in a big way, and I couldn’t be more excited to see them flourish. For food, we decided to share the tuna salad and pastrami carrots. If there ever was a name of a dish that didn’t encompass the deliciousness of what you were about to eat, it would be the tuna salad. To start, it’s not a salad at all, and thank God, because honestly I can make a pretty decent salad at home. What I can’t do, and thank God that these two do, is lightly poach tuna belly and serve it with a bone marrow aioli meant to be spread on top of wonderfully grilled focaccia from Matija Breads by Matt Swint. Swint explained that it was kind of like an upside down version of vitello tonnato, which is a veal dish flavored with tuna. Don’t worry, I didn’t know what it was either—google it if you want. What I found out though, is that an upside version of vitello tonnato called Tuna Salad at Ambrose & Eve is fantastic. The pastrami carrots were salty, as you would expected anything called “pastrami,” but with an earthy sweetness you can only get from a root vegetable. Dollops of their house-made grainy mustard added to the what I want to call a “deconstructed vegetarian pastrami on rye.” Definitely worth a try. And while you’re there, order a glass of the Brothers Drake Lynne Virginia Cider, a signature brew made exclusively for Ambrose and Eve under Randazzo and Heaggans’ direction. Not being a cider fan myself, I was surprised at how sweet the nose was but how crisp and clean it was in the mouth. Its carbonation is added after the fermentation, which lends a delicate, almost champagne-like experience. G. Michael's bistro & Bar You’d be hard pressed to talk about the best of the best without mentioning our final stop of the Hop. G. Michael’s has been consistently ranked as one the best dining experiences in Columbus for more than 20 years, and that much experience really does show. The inconspicuous 22
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restaurant starts with the bar upon arrival and opens into multiple dining rooms that you didn’t know were there when looking at it from street level. Everything about G’s feels intentional. Not in a crazy pretentious way, but in a way that makes you feel like every detail has been attended to. Nothing goes to waste here. I’ve even been told that Chef prides himself in butchering in house (not something that every chef does), utilizing as much of the animal as he can to create his dishes. Talk about a chef after my own heart! We shared plates of the shrimp and grits, pork belly, and a bowl of the butternut squash soup. (Now I usually don’t double up on dishes during an App Hop, but I mean c’mon...you can’t expect me to not order pork belly when it’s on the menu. Sorry, not sorry.) To be completely honest, the pork belly was one of the best I’ve ever had in the city. It could be the soy caramel glaze, it could be the 5 spice reduction, it could also be that we were 5 or 6 drinks into the Hop and my judgement was cloudy.... but my best guess is the quality of the belly itself. Not all pigs are created, or rather bred, equally, and it’s apparent that the kitchen has access to some top-shelf swine. I bet you’ll agree.The butternut squash soup was the perfect match for a winter Hop. The added maple syrup to the pureed squash lended additional sweetness to a creamy rich base that is topped with a pecan gremolata. (Yum!) To wrap things up, don’t let the Ohio winter get you down. There’s plenty of new spots to explore and lots of things to eat. So before you settle down for another night of binge watching Game of Thrones for the 20th time or buying new skins on Fortnite, ask yourself this: “Have I really tried anything new lately?” No? Cool. Go out and explore. Happy Hopping! •
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Brewed To Be Wild How Antiques on High is creating an old school atmosphere with new school beer
By L aur a Dac h e n b ac h | P h otos by b r i a n Ka i s e r
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xpanding operations is nothing new for the people at Seventh Son. From their fully-stocked and recently expanded taproom on Fourth Street to their craft beer and wine shop, The Barrel and Bottle, in the North Market, making waves and setting trends seems to be second nature. That’s how it’s been since their humble beginnings five years ago. Now, going to Seventh Son for a drink is just as much of an experience for the booze as it is for the atmosphere with their retractable rooftop patio. Keeping that trend-setting spirit alive, the owners of Seventh Son have ventured into a
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new, and sour, operation and created Antiques on High. The new brewery will reside in the Columbus Brewery District where they will specialize in sour, funky, and Belgianstyle beers. Sour beers are a combination of barrel-aging, blending, and a strange sorcery of spontaneous fermentation. In other words, while most modern breweries stick to a very strict and structured brewing process when it comes to yeast fermentation, sour beers allow yeast and other bacteria grow wild to help form that tart taste. Don’t be scared, though, this kind of bacteria isn’t a bad thing.
"We really wanted to offer some stuff you don’t see around town much, that’s where the draft cocktails and wine came into play." The space will boast 5,000 square feet, along with decor within the store that pays homage to the antique mall that previously resided there. Many of the artwork and pieces hanging on the walls and around the brewery date back to midcentury times all the way up to the 1980’s— much like what the Greater Columbus Antique Mall would have sold during their time on High Street. “When we took possession of the space it still had a busted old sign and everything,” said brewmaster Colin Vent. “We took that as inspiration for the name. It works nicely conceptually in that sour beer production is a very old school, old world way of making beer, so we’re somewhat crafting antiques here.” The space features a giant double Chesterfield sofa sitting in front of a breeze-block gas fireplace, eclectic artwork, classic beer signs, and wooden community tables. Hundreds of vintage beer cans behind glass panels are built into the front and sides of the bar itself.
“We literally went antiquing for most of the decor,” said Vent. Antiques on High will be both a complement and contrast to their flagship brewery, a chance to explore the funkier styles of beers, although traditional craft fans will be able to find some of their favorite Seventh Son beers on tap as well. “It allows us to show another side of our talents. We can take a step back from full-on industrial brewing and slow way down to explore blending and aging and all the things that go into making these beers,” said Vent. Although the sour stuff may be making a splash online, the decision to go funky was not trend-driven, Vent insists. The entire ownership group, consisting of Vent, Collin Castore, Jen Burton, and Travis Spencer, has been playing with the idea for several years, and Vent doubts you’ll be seeing any of his sour beers sitting on the shelves at The Barrel and Bottle, largely for practical reasons. “We’re quite proud to be making beer in this historic district, said Vent. “We can’t produce much of this style of beer at a time. Some of the blends involve beer that’s aged for upwards of 18 months, so that really precludes much in the way of distribution.” • 614columbus.com winter 2019
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Instead, Vent hopes the unique style will be a homing beacon of sorts for those who appreciate sour beers and want to have an ideal experience hanging out and enjoying a beer brewed by those invested in the process, with a true love for presenting these styles. “We are committed to our spaces. We work hard to create comfortable, cool bar experiences, and keeping those niche beers in house presents a solid reason for making the trip in to see us,” said Vent. Part of that experience will be the rooftop patio with its lounge-style seating and fireplace, a definite reason to visit, relax, and make new friends in the brewery district. “There’s an upstairs four-seasons patio with amazing views of the city as well as small front and back patios at ground level,” said Vent. Initially, Antiques on High will have scheduled food trucks with plans to move towards carryout from Ambrose & Eve, also a new addition to the Brewery District. New to the sour beer scene? The style can be an acquired taste. Don’t be afraid to ask for help from the experts. Vent suggests a frank conversation with your bartenders, the experts on Antiques’ ever-changing lineup. “They can guide a person to a beer with a lower amount of acidity and more accessible flavors,” explained Vent. “Right now I’d recommend either our sour red ale Hoop Driver, or the blended saison Trinket. Both of these have a minimal level of acidity, just enough to add a twang on the finish.” Although Antiques on High hopes to offer a boutique experience to play with unusual beers styles, there’s a little something for everyone. “We’ve got 24 taps that are divided between the sour and funky beers, hop-focused hazy beers, draft wine and draft cocktails,” said Vent. “The cocktail program was developed by Travis Owens from Behind the Glass Consulting. We really wanted to offer some stuff you don’t see around town much, that’s where the draft cocktails and wine came into play.” Landing right on trend, or perhaps staying ahead of the curve. It’s all a bit like spontaneous fermentation itself—accidental at first, then deliberate. But it seems to be the direction for the Seventh Son brewery empire as it continues its way at the forefront of Columbus’ bar scene, something it achieved largely by loving what they do. “It’s a really fun way to brew,” said Vent, hoping Columbus sour fans, old and new, will agree. “Hopefully they’ll think it’s cool and wanna hang with us and have a couple.” •
"We literally went antiquing for most of the decor."
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Secret Ingredient
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The key to Sweet Carrot’s sweet success By J.R . M c M i l l a n p hotos by br i a n ka i ser
Amid the monotony of formulaic fast casuals, Sweet Carrot exceeds expectations with every bite. Refined, yet whimsical, their fascination with corn cakes and smoked meat amid an industry of imitation built-on buns and bowls isn’t just daring. It’s downhome flare that’s downright defiant. If there remains any mystery behind Sweet Carrot’s success through simplicity, the secret ingredient is founder Angela Petro. Cast against type as both a restaurateur and entrepreneur, she’s no Gordon Ramsay knockoff barking orders and berating the staff, nor some smug, Silicon Valley visionary perpetually pitching the next big thing. Petro is the opposite, honest and humble, and actually stumbled into Sweet Carrot neither by design nor necessity. The impulsive purchase of a food truck as a mobile R&D platform for her decades-old catering company proved so unexpectedly popular when it launched at the Columbus Arts Festival, a permanent location became all but inevitable. The original location in Grandview was an instant hit at the old Rife’s Market, but the second at Polaris was slow to take off. So the third in Dublin has focused on what restaurant patrons increasingly expect, a conscientious kitchen with menu options for everyone, regardless of dietary restrictions or preferences. It’s still fast casual, but with a thoughtful, artistic take on comfort food destined to grow beyond Central Ohio. •
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“It all came together as a curated experience. I would say it was fortuitous, at a time when I was starting to explore this kernel of an idea,” recalled Petro, whose established enterprise Two Caterers had reached a pivotal point. “When we started, we were doing simple drop-off lunches. But as we pushed ourselves, we became thought of as a high-end catering company, with creative presentation at a competitive price.” In those early days, Petro wasn’t just wearing a proverbial chef’s hat. She was taking orders, working the kitchen, making deliveries, often serving her creations on-site, and washing the dishes at the end of the day. “My background is blue-collar. I grew up never having catering, and that’s where most of us live. But people still have parties, they still have a need,” she revealed. “Every now and then, you need help with food, but you aren’t throwing a $30k graduation party or a $60k wedding. I still had that feeling we weren’t really reaching the market that we set out to service.” Unable to shake the perception as a prohibitively-priced caterer for many, and uncertain any amount of marketing would change popular opinion, Petro envisioned a sister brand that would capture that longlost clientele.
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It bolstered the thought that we could go after this market of folks in Central Ohio who wanted wholesome food at a price they could afford, without someone in a bowtie wearing white gloves holding a silver tray. That ’s how Sweet Carrot started.
” “Everyone contributed ideas to what we could roll out on our food truck—our sales team, kitchen staff, and our chefs. It bolstered the thought that we could go after this market of folks in Central Ohio who wanted wholesome food at a price they could afford, without someone in a bowtie wearing white gloves holding a silver tray,” she recalled. “That’s how Sweet Carrot started.” •
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The commitment to creative comfort food has always been a true community project. One of her chefs pitched the idea of savory corn cakes as a base, with brisket and pulled pork from a commercial smoker Petro picked up at auction as the perfectly decadent, working-class complement. Their signature corn salsa, adapted from the recipe repertoire of a staffer’s family potlucks, has become a ubiquitous condiment. Even the name came by way of a friend whose knack for word play was among many happy accidents. “He sent me an email that said, ‘Did you know Sweet Carrot is an anagram of Two Caterers?’,” she chided. “So that became the name of our food truck, even before we knew what we planned to serve.” The result is a menu that is neither seasonal, nor static, and taps into changing customer expectations. Their corn cakes are gluten-free, their slaw dairy-free, and vegetarians aren’t the only ones swooning over their fried artichokes—a callback to that first Columbus Arts Festival where they were cleverly sold as “fried arts.” And much like any credible country kitchen, little goes to waste, with yesterday’s brisket and pork becoming today’s Brunswick stew, and chicken meatballs joining kale and black-eyed eyes in tomorrow’s soup. Even the leftover mac and cheese is coated in breadcrumbs from remnant rolls and flash fried to preserve their gooey goodness. (Petro personally vouches for their portability, preferably with a side of pickles.) Petro admits she’s been the beneficiary of both luck and good fortune along the way, from a tiny little lunch company to a beloved local food truck that prompted patrons visiting Columbus for the Country Living Fair to plead her to open an outpost in their hometowns too. Even the name Sweet Carrot and its origin are metaphors for what great restaurants do best, turning existing ingredients into something completely new and unexpected. “I believe in this brand, and never conceived of it as a one-off. When we opened the first Sweet Carrot, I struggled creatively to try to find the guardrails, to keep it something that could become a multi-unit restaurant,” she recalled. “I wanted everything and the kitchen sink. I originally had a wine section and wanted to have a small market with products packaged to take home. If I’d opened it as a single location, it would have been a very different concept.” The character of Rife’s Market was both a blessing and a curse. Petro and a team of staff and friends were sanding tables and painting the walls themselves. But the design and layout were more intuitive than intentional, setting a high bar for replicating the aesthetic at additional locations with less inherent character. Though Polaris was ambitious and demographically desirable, the new Dublin spot reveals the maturity of a brand ready to break out of Columbus. “This third iteration is not the end, because there’s so much we’re going to learn. Though it is tempting, and exciting, and flattering to think about opening another location, it’s also the right time to pause,” she noted. “We’ve opened two restaurants this year, as a very tiny company. But we are definitely looking to keep expanding and evolving. We’re small, but mighty.” • To find the nearest Sweet Carrot, or to check out their catering or special diets menus, visit sweetcarrot.com
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:
SH E R
BRE W Sto ry by l au r a dac h e n b ac h | p h otos by em m a kat e low
F Blank Slate Coffee percolates drinks and ideas in Gahanna’s downtown
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For each of us, every day begins as a blank slate, a way to get a “do-over” from the mistakes and stresses of yesterday and an opportunity to start fresh. And for many of us, the day starts with coffee. It all comes together at Blank Slate Coffee in Gahanna where you can snag your morning cup of joe from an all-aluminum Airstream RV. Located in the Creekside district, Gahanna’s mixed-use gathering space of park, residence, and retail along Big Walnut Creek, Blank Slate Coffee is in the business of not only serving excellent coffee, but adding to the spirit of the community. Nestled within the remains of an old self-serve car wash, Blank Slate has provided a place for caffeine, imagination and togetherness to work their magic. “We’ve definitely found that what we’re doing resonates with a lot of people here,” said Matt Roberson, owner/operator of Blank Slate Coffee. “Our motivation in choosing to operate at Creekside has less to do with a conscious business decision, and more to do with the fact that we live here. For us, being able to build community is our main motivator. So finding a niche outside of Gahanna just didn’t make sense.” Coming to Columbus by way of Colorado, Roberson and his wife Kayla settled in Gahanna and hit the ground running. Not wishing to be idle bystanders in the community, The Robersons started making Blank Slate more than just great coffee. In the guts of the former car-wash where a few fingerprints of old pipes and spigots remain, Roberson, a former art teacher, had custom murals painted on sides of the stalls. He contributed to the collaborative designs, and created one entirely by himself. •
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Yes, it’s a world of food trucks, pop-ups, and generally mobile dining opportunities, but why an Airstream? “One of the things we’re committed to as a business is using local Ohio products whenever we can,” said Roberson. “So when we had the opportunity to use a legacy Ohio product like the Airstream to house Blank Slate Coffee, it was the perfect fit. Our Airstream is from 1971 and was in Indianapolis when we found it.” The Airstream is finished off with black-and-white checkered tiles, wooden chairs and a slim wooden countertop, a retro feel contrasting with the modern shine of the high-tech coffee brewing machines. The old car wash office has been refurbished into “The Hart Room” and serves as a place for patrons to kick back as they sip while they check out more artwork and an antique turntable. The Hart Room more generally functions as a place for open discussion, community, and general creativity and has housed community talks, live music, coffee and canvas nights, game nights, and pop-up events. “We refer to it as, ‘A resource for the creative community,’ ” said Roberson. “We’ve been able to allow a few artists to do their first ‘gallery show’ in the space. It’s definitely a little rough so we don’t try to brand it as a legit gallery.” This idea of taking ownership of your day (through caffeine or otherwise) and realizing what you want is very much a part of Blank Slate’s philosophy. What may seem like a heavy mission for a local coffee shop, Blank Slate achieves quite naturally. Interactive art such as “Before I die I want to…” board allows customers to question and communicate. If you’re not sure what it is that you exactly want to do before your death (a heavy question at 8 a.m.), the hundreds of responses from guests who have already rolled through and left their mark on the board can serve as inspiration. Other interactive art pieces make use of upcycled materials. 36
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Although it occasionally moves to meet the crowds where they are, the bright silver Airstream is now a recognizable Gahanna landmark. While many people stay in their cars and take advantage of the large front window that doubles as a drivethru, customers can also go inside to order coffee and even sit in the small countertop area while basking in the vintage glory of the refurbished recreational vehicle, replete with succulents and classic audio equipment for a completely Instagrammable and enlightening coffee experience. From a variety of espresso options to different blends of tea ranging from Sunstone to Black Pearl, a common or not-socommon coffee or tea drinker should have no struggles finding something to suit their palate. Additionally, Blank Slate offers speciality coffee options like the lavender latte, or the popular cold-brew coffee. Beyond coffee, tea, and esspero, the Blank Slate menu has Italian sodas as well as Italian cream sodas—carbonated water with a flavored simple syrup. A modest food selection of doughnuts, bagels, and muffins is also available. Roberson’s blend of community enthusiasm, amazing product, and prudent use of space lent itself to the creation of Blank and Brush Block Parties this past summer. The Blank and Brush parties brought together local artists selling goods, a few food trucks, music, and was another success for the two-and-a-half-yearold small business. “The block party events happened pretty organically, and we were really impressed with how quickly people jumped on board and were willing to contribute,” said Roberson. “I think that shows that not only does Gahanna need community, but they want it and are willing to work to make it happen. So that helps us feel like we’re on the right track.” •
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Columbus Comfort Classics Winter Edition B y A a r o n W e tl i I l lu str ati o n s by rya n c as k e y
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W
inter is here and per usual, it’s pretty damn dark and cold out. If you are like me, you take pride in gaining ten extra winter pounds because you take comfort in food. And boy howdy, does this town have some great winter comfort food. Here is our list of Columbus Comfort Classics. These entrees are guaranteed to chase away the Winter Blues, if only for a few hours. Let’s carb out, heat up, and get started. The Moltansanti at Mama Mimi’s Take ‘n Bake Pizza Grandview, Upper Arlington, Clintonville Everyone yearns for Yellow Brick, is familiar with Meister’s mastery, and has experienced the awesomeness of Adriatico’s. However, if you are expecting to get snowed in, Mama Mimi’s offers you flexibility as their pizza can stay in your refrigerator for 48 hours before baking. My favorite is the Moltansanti; a pepperoni, banana pepper, tomato, and roasted garlic pizza that blows competition away, just like the eponymous Sopranos character it is named for. Pro tip: Order online before 4 p.m. and receive 20% off. Pro tip two: Stop by the Grandview location and ask The Gentile’s Wine Sellers staff to recommend an awesome bottle of wine to pair with your pizza. Chicken-N-Noodles at Nancy’s Home Cooking 3133 N High St. If you haven’t been to Nancy’s Home Cooking, you should probably get your Columbus Card revoked. If you have been to Nancy’s, odds are you have tried the Chicken-N-Noodles. In short, this dish is composed of a mountain of buttery and rich mashed potatoes and topped with all of the Amish style Chicken and Noodles that can fit on your plate. If that wasn’t enough carbs for you, dinner rolls are also served alongside green beans. After finishing this beauty, you will need a nap, but won’t need dinner plans. Busters at Jack & Benny’s 2563 N High St. Certainties in life: taxes, death, and Jack & Benny’s amazing breakfast. You should reward yourself one with of their Busters after you shovel the walks and driveway. You earned it. The Jack Buster comes with two hash browns, one bacon slice, one piece of ham, one egg and cheese all topped with country gravy. The Benny Buster? Sub out the hash browns for two potato pancakes and keep everything else the same. Both busters are only $8.99 each. You’re welcome. •
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Xiao Long Bao at Helen’s Asian Kitchen 1070 E Dublin Granville Rd. Do you know what Xiao Long Bao is? Don’t worry, I didn’t either before I ate at Helen’s. In short, Xiao Long Bao are dumplings and these dumplings rival any other dumpling in Columbus. Even yours, Momo Ghar. Served in a thick and rich sauce, these handmade dumplings have pork and cabbage and come in a hand rolled and steamed bun. They may take a minute to arrive at the table, so relax and enjoy the scenery. Perfection takes time. Taco Al Pastor at Los Guachos | 7370 Sawmill Rd. Forget about Taco Tuesday, get to Los Guachos Sawmill location for Taco Monday (Taco Monday isn’t a thing, but just roll with it). The Al Pastor is a corn (the way God intended it) tortilla with slow roasted pork, pineapple, onions and cilantro, and on Mondays they are BOGO. Juicy, hot and bursting with flavor, I recommend ordering four. Oh yeah, there is also a house-made margarita special on Monday. Your Monday just got A LOT better. Shakshuka at The Olive Tree Mediterranean Café 3185 Hilliard-Rome Rd. I recently moved out of Hilliard after living there for a little over two year and I have to say, the Shashuka at The Olive Tree is my favorite Hilliard entree. Shaksuka is not quite a soup and not quite a fork and knife entrée. More specifically, it is two eggs served poached in a rich red sauce with pepper and garlic. I order mine with spicy sausage. This entrée will warm you up and the service at Olive Tree is second to none. Make it out to Hilliard this winter, you won’t regret it. Carbonara at South Village Grille | 197 Thurman Ave. You might be surprised to find one of the heartiest and most delicious pasta dishes tucked away in this corner of the German Village. Then again, you might not be. (I’m not psychic.) Carbonara, campanelle pasta, pancetta, peas, pecorino and an egg yolk round out this classic comfort entrée. To call this dish rich insults the upper class and at $19, it won’t put too much of a damper on your wallet or working-class sensibilities. You could even sit at the bar and split this entrée with your significant other, but you may wish you had ordered it for yourself. Chicken Vindaloo at Indian Oven | 427 E Main St. Baby, it’s cold outside. Well, at least until you get the spicy Chicken Vindaloo at Indian Oven. Then the world is warm and wonderful. Basmati rice topped with chicken, potatoes, and tomatoes and cooked in a spicy, 40
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vinegar sauce makes anyone happier, and, odds are you will have leftovers. Also, you won’t be cold anymore. Well, at least your temperature won’t be cold. I can’t testify for your temperament. Lobster Bisque at Lindey’s | 169 E Beck St. Lobster Bisque at Lindey’s…I really don’t know if I need to follow up that heading with anything, I mean it’s Lobster Bisque at Lindey’s. Eat some there and get some to go. Rich, hearty, hints of sherry and shrimp, this bisque has a little bit of everything. My advice? Get a bowl at brunch and follow it with an Irish Coffee. That should warm you up enough to tackle shoveling the walks. Pho Dac Biet at Houng Vietnamese | 1270 Morse Rd. Nestled away in a strip mall just east of I-71 on Morse Road is some of the best Pho in the city. A family owned and operated restaurant, Houng is an integral part of the neighborhood, and once you eat their food, you will understand why. The Pho Dac Biet is Pho with rare steak, meatballs, tendon and well-done flank and it is topped with a garden of cilantro and limes. Also, the bowl it comes in is as big as your head. Nice people, budget friendly and piping hot pho. Get there. Get the shrimp spring rolls too. Burger at The Rossi | 895 N High St. If you like Philco, El Camino and Club 185 (and who doesn’t) odds are you will like the Rossi as all three concepts are from the same management group. Plus, we have to have a burger on this list, right? A slight variation on the famous Club 185 Cheeseburger, the Rossi burger pulls no punches, because it doesn’t need to. Hamburger, cheese, lettuce, onion, pickle, and mayo. Classic. *Pro tip: save $6 by going at Happy Hour instead of dinner. Order two burgers and get a bourbon after. Wow, I’m smart. Fried Chicken at The Whitney House | 666 High St. This entrée is only available on Sundays, but that just means you have a good omen to start your week. Crispy, airy, and juicy with a hint of spice, this entrée is worth waiting the whole week for and comes with Mac and Cheese, pickled vegetables and a sriracha/honey sauce. •
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Woodhouse Vegan F PlantS Roots
ood is a family affair for the Woodhouse family. Every week, sisters Cara, Nicole and Krista and their mother, Carla, whip up plant-based comfort food in the tiny kitchen of Oddfellows Liquor Bar for dozens of hungry, drunk customers.
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BY SARA STACY | P HOTOS BY BRIAN KAISER
Sisters Nicole and Cara have been bartending at Oddfellows since the bar’s opening in 2014. The Woodhouse Vegan pop up has been held Oddfellows since it replaced Hai Poke’s pop up in 2016 (which also found success with a restaurant location on High Street). • 614columbus.com winter 2019
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“ Believe it or not, just a mere four years ago there were virtually no vegan restaurants, or even vegan off-the-shelf food in grocery stores.” While the family’s plan was originally to open a restaurant, a shortage of real estate and high leasing prices in the downtown area delayed their ability to do so. Instead, the Woodhouse sisters used their connection with Oddfellows to start their business. “We quickly gained a reputation for preparing good, hearty vegan food,” Cara said. “Believe it or not, just a mere four years ago there were virtually no vegan restaurants, or even vegan offthe-shelf food in grocery stores.” Woodhouse Vegan will relocate to its restaurant in Italian Village in early 2019, where the family will have more room to share their expanding menu. The journey to opening their own restaurant has been fueled by their passion for living a compassionate lifestyle and introducing others to vegan living. It can be hard to define the Woodhouse menu by anything other than “vegan,” as their popular dishes range from a hearty mac and cheese to pho noodle bowls. The sisters find much of their culinary inspiration from traveling the US and abroad, while staying true to the food from their childhood.
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“There are some plant focused chefs doing some really innovative things that inspire us to push our own exploration and growth,” Cara said. “We are also constantly developing and evolving recipes that taste like the kinds of foods we grew up eating.” Their restaurant will be located in Italian Village in a building that has over 100 years of history. With its high ceilings, large windows and funky vibes, the space is exactly what the family imagined for their dream brick and mortar location. To prepare for their grand opening, the family has been working to add a second bathroom, build a kitchen and open up access to the outdoor patio. Despite needing to make these additions, Cara said the enterprise is delighted to be in a space so close to the community they work and play in. The sisters said they plan on opening with a limited menu and hours, eventually expanding to seven days a week, providing breakfast, lunch and dinner options. The space will also serve local brews, curated cocktails and sustainable wine. With more and more people expressing their curiosity about vegan eating, Cara and Carla said the family is excited for the opportunity have a space where they can extend their passion for plant-based eating to more customers. “With our space, we can provide a place and environment for people to explore plant based foods without limitation or menu scrutiny,” Cara said. “Creating delicious food favorites you grew up with—as well as new tastes—is exactly what we do.”
Woodhouse Vegan will be located at on 851 N 4th St.
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Take Five: Revisiting the Columbus food scene, five years later
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lot can change in five years. Kids become teenagers, phones turn into computers and cities transform. Coming back to Columbus after five years of living abroad, the last statement has never been more apparent. The changes are readily visible when I drive down High Street, with the new OSU dorms on campus, Long’s Book Store now an empty parking lot, and shiny high rise condos towering over either side of the Short North, but what might be even more striking, and heartening, are all of the locally-owned restaurants, coffee shops and bars that have cropped up around the city like the corn for which Ohio is known around the world. Coming back home, I’m reminded of how memories are inextricably attached to place and how new places give us the opportunity to form new impressions of a home we once knew so well. With that in mind, I set out for a day of exploring the Columbus food scene, to see what’s changed, what’s new and what’s just as I left it.
By: E l i z a b e th S e nsky
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p hotos by em m a kate low
A new vibe in German Village I started the day at one of Columbus’ recent success stories — Fox in the Snow. With their first café launched back in 2014, I had been following the rise of Lauren Culley and Jeff Excell’s pastry and coffee venture on my periodic visits home for several years now. As a coffee lover with a major sweet tooth, I was an instant devotee and always curious to see on Instagram which pastries they would roll out next. That’s why I was happy to learn of their most recent expansion to German Village. The snow was lightly falling as I approached their new, sturdy brick home on Thurman Avenue, which I later learned was a movie theater in the 1920s. In my mind, the perfect worn-in building for the comforting pastries and sweets that are Fox in the Snow’s trademark. Ordering a blueberry danish and a classic drip coffee, I took the corner seat, a great spot for people watching as neighbors came in to grab a quick coffee and people met up to talk business or catch up. The danish was flaky and sugar-studded, and the blueberries, though not in season, were still very much sweet. On the way out, I took note of Fox in the Snow’s aptly matched, millennial-geared neighbors: Native Cold Pressed, The W Nail Bar and STUMP plants—all companions with a similar aesthetic and ethos, complimenting each other and bringing a more modern vibe to this historic corner of German Village, which previously had only been on my radar thanks to the legendary Thurman Café down the street. •
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p h otos by em m a kat e low
Fourth Street: from empty warehouses to a bevy of food spots Next up, a visit to Fourth Street was in order, which I soon discovered is one of the real stars of all the new development in the city and probably one of the most dramatic transformations. When I left in 2013, Fourth Street was home to little more than a hookah bar and empty warehouses, yet in only five years time all the new development on High has trickled out to this more affordable area of the city, the affordability apparently encouraging local entrepreneurs to open restaurants, bars, and cafes aplenty. The street is lined with these starting stories, from Cosecha Cocina to Seventh Son to the soon-to-open Woodhouse Vegan. One of these newcomers I was eager to try was GoreMade Pizza, a wood-fired pizzeria that launched in 2016. The brainchild of Nick Gore, the story goes that the business grew out of a weekly pizza night. After running a catering business out of his Subaru for a few years and selling at local farmers’ markets, Gore found a home in an old TV repair shop in the Italian Village section of Fourth Street. Sourcing fresh ingredients, the restaurant focuses on quality pizza with inventive toppings like squash sauce and Peppadew peppers. As I took a bite of my Clintonvillian pizza—an earthy variety featuring truffle oil—from my seat at the bar, I thought about how before I would only ever drive past where I now sat, thinking of it as little more than a means to an end, a way to get downtown or a faster route to High Street. These days it’s a destination in its own right, and if food is any indicator of the health of a city, then it seems that Columbus is filling out, offering ever more diverse options for a more balanced diet and surely a more vibrant economy. 48
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The world to Columbus For the final stop of the day, I headed to Franklinton to see how the craft beer scene was faring. The last time I was in Franklinton was back in the summer of 2013 for an Urban Scrawl. My memory of the area was that of a slightly rough-around-the edges yet burgeoning creative haven. Like many of the most interesting places, nothing was too done up or sealed off, giving the impression that anything was possible. Five years later and now Franklinton’s unbound potential is much more reality than imagination. The artistic hotbed apparently catalyzing public and private investment in the form of new residential developments, offices, and a handful of interesting breweries, Brew Dog being chief among them. From the rooftop of their two story complex on Town Street, all of this was visible. With a fire pit crackling in the foreground and the Columbus skyline in the background, it felt like the perfect way to cap off the day’s explorations. I'm standing on the freshly-poured patio of a UK based company with a Punk IPA in hand looking out at a Columbus in the midst of significant growth and change—a reminder that Columbus is becoming a destination in its own right throughout the region, and apparently internationally, as well. Funny to think that while I was off exploring other corners of the globe, people were starting to pay attention to the one I left behind, even making a point to stay put and set up shop, transforming a place I was once eager to leave into one where it now feels more difficult to say goodbye. •
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Hand-made empanadas at Barroluco bear the name of the business and its city, thanks to a custom empanada press.
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Raising
The
Barroluco
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Argentinian food truck finds its brick-and-mortar home on Pearl St. By M i tc h H oo p e r Ph otos by e mma kat e low It’s been a wild three years for Omar D’Angelo, owner of Barroluco Argentine. In late June of 2016, D’Angelo announced he would be opening up his food truck, which would specialize in dishes like empanadas, paella rice, and churros--you know, only the best. It started as a way to show the Columbus community the style of Latino cooking, and was quickly named the best food truck of the 2017 Columbus Food Truck Festival. But that’s not all that was in store for D’Angelo. Barroluco Argentine went on to take first place two years in a row at the Whitehall Food Truck And Fun Fest in 2017 and 2018, and it went back-to-back in those same years at the Westerville Music And Art Festival, as well. Now it’s 2019, and for D’Angelo, the wins are still coming after he officially opened the doors to his first brick-and-mortar location of Barroluco Argentine on Pearl St. in downtown Columbus in midNovember of 2018. It’s a cozy and minimal set up inside the restaurant, but as a place that was once a food truck, aesthetic comes second when your food does the heavy lifting in the lunch game. • 614columbus.com winter 2019
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People aren’t coming for ambience and boujee cocktails, they are here for quick comfort food that boasts more Latino flavor than whatever you get on your Chipotle burrito. While we’re talking about Chipotle, let’s get something clear: this is not “Mexican” food. You’re not going to find tacos here—mostly because tacos are a Tex-Mex creation—and, as D’Angelo explained, there’s a difference between the two styles of cuisine. “Argentine food concentrates more in grilled meats and breads when Mexican concentrates more in spicy foods and a variety of sauces,” D’Angelo explained. This isn’t to say Barroluco doesn’t keep things saucy at the restaurant, it’s just the sauce isn’t a main feature of the dish. Instead, it’s something that compliments the dish. Your order of paella rice can be prepared with sausage, chicken, or mixed veggies; and then you are given the option to add a spicy salsa, or a mild salsa, or perhaps their specialty creambased sauce, the salsa golf. It’s building layers of flavor on top of more layers of flavor. There’s also crossover between the two cuisines, and it’s in the form of churros. Barroluco Argentine offers churros in two different variations, dulche de leche or chocolate, and you should probably just order both because why chance missing out? The exterior is crispy and crunchy as it’s covered in cinnamon and sugar while the inside is warm and soft. Are you drooling yet? The menu at Barroluco will remain relatively the same to the food truck’s menu, but there are some new additions like the Barroluco sandwich or the Sandwich de Miga. The Sandwich de Miga is something akin to the American cucumber sandwich popular at tea-time parties, but instead of cucumbers and cream cheese on bread (gross!), it features white bread, ham, egg, lettuce, tomato, mayo, and a dollop of special sauce. Essentially, it’s a sandwich you would actually want to eat during a party. The idea behind launching a brick-and-mortar location wasn’t so much to expand the space and menu as much as it was a chance to better build relationships with both loyal customers and new faces in the lunch rush. D’Angelo explained that while the instant success of being at events like the Food Truck Festival or NightLight 614 have helped grow his presence in Columbus, but long lines at food trucks don’t create for ample time to curate relationships. “I feel we have more time and contact with the customers at the restaurant now. The food truck attracts many people and the lines a very 52
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long some times,” D’Angelo explained. “We reduce the waiting time by having two lines working simultaneously, so we have a little more time to engage with customers.” However, having the extra space doesn’t hurt. D’Angelo said it gives them more opportunities to cook up different Argentinian specialities. He said he and his team are amazed by the extra space they now have, and after working in a confined space like a food truck, having that elbow room has to add some ease to the detailed process of hand creating menu items like the empanadas which are individually stamped with “Barroluco” and “Columbus” on the creases. So what’s in store for D’Angelo and his bag of wins? Only time will tell. Until then, he’s focused keeping the restaurant in top performance which is what he believes has thrust him into the position he’s in today. “I think it’s the support our the rich story behind the business and the differentiation of our offerings,” D’Angelo said. “The quality of our offerings and the service are also highlighted by Columbusites!” • Barroluco Argentine is located on 47 N. Pearl St. and is open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Monday through Friday.
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Seasons Eatings Three spots with seasonal offerings Story an d Photos by E m m a Kat e Low
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When you think of winter foods, instantly dishes like soups, stews, and other classic comfort foods come to mind. Nobody is trying to eat a hot beef stew in the middle of July, but when the harsh Ohio winter hits and we are stuck scrambling for a hearty and warm meal, the pizza delivery place down the road just isn’t going to cut it. Instead of choking down another slice of Corporate Brand Pizza, check out the places on this list. And, if you’re really feeling like you could use a second dosing of a pick-me-up, wash back your meal with some of the seasonal drinks and cocktails only offered during the winter months. Get ‘em while they’re hot!
Asterisk Supper Club | 14 N State St Walking into Asterisk, one could feel like they’d entered a library from Alice in Wonderland. With a “take a book, leave a book” on the first few shelves of the floor to ceiling bookshelves that line almost the entirety of the restaurant, to the use of antique China as serving dishes, it’s the perfect atmosphere for a tea party. Asterisk indeed does a traditional tea service in the early hours which includes tea sandwiches, handmade scones, clotted cream, and homemade jams. Midday lunch service focuses on lighter options, but still offers comfort food. There is an air of exclusivity without the pretension. Asterisk is a place that makes you feel special for being there. Seasonal Ginger Tea: A tea kettle remnant of Victorian era pours out the ginger herbal tea. A perfect warmer to go with your tea sandwiches. Full/Petite Tea: How does one choose? Cucumber cream cheese with dill, chicken salad, ham, brie, and green apple with homemade honey mustard, or smoked salmon with dill cream cheese and capers. This is the perfect sampler for a light lunch. Also, you can’t forget the “bling bling” which the staff so affectionately calls the beautiful sugar coated fruit that sits in the middle. Chicken Pot Pie: What could be more comforting than a hot meal wrapped in a perfectly flakey pastry pie crust? Chef roasts the whole chicken in house, makes the gravy from scratch, adds turmeric, bearclaw cheese, and hits the puff pastry very gently an egg wash salt and pepper and proceeds to cook it in the cast iron skillet. This is a winter warmer that often brings back guests, and a whole table of “I’ll have what they’re having.” • 614columbus.com winter 2019
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Hemingway’s Demise: Bartender Bismark describes this cocktail as a very boozy daiquiri which has absinthe and is garnished with a grapefruit twist. Hemingway was known for using absinthe in his drinks, and this cocktail pays him homage. Uptown Old Fashioned: This smokey masterpiece is a one of a kind of cocktail experience. Taking the classic ingredients of an old fashioned, but infusing new technology with the beaker and the infusion of smoke— its a cocktail you won’t want to miss, and will more than likely spot on Instagram for it’s photogenic aesthetic.
Tasi Cafe | 680 N Pearl St Tucked away off Pearl Alley is the Columbus cafe, Tasi. Named after its very owner Tasi Rigsby, it is not new to Columbus. A favorite spot since 2007, Tasi has evolved with the ever changing needs of the Short North. A new closing time, some renovations, and 11 years later, Tasi is still is as relevant and delicious as ever. This cozy cafe is the perfect place to duck into, off the more trodden Short North path, after a morning of shopping, or just the place to cure your Saturday morning hangover. Challah French Toast: Nothing is better than french toast with the thickest bread possible. This dish features challah soaked with syrup topped with browned bananas. This is the perfect keep you warm on a snowy morning meal. Egg Croissant Sandwich: Fried egg, flakey croissant, Canadian bacon, and some good ole Swiss cheese. It’s simple, but it’s a major upgrade to any of the drive-thru breakfast sandwiches you scarf down on the way to the office. Smoked Salmon Bagel: This standard breakfast staple is a crowd pleaser. This boujee bite takes the run-of-the-mill cream cheese on a toasted bagel to the next level by adding smoked salmon and tomato. Who says you need to go to the east coast to get a good lox bagel? 56
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Bonifacio | 1577 King Ave Bonifacio has made headlines since opening, and was just featured on the Cooking Channels’ “Burgers Brew & Que.” Located in Grandview off of King, it’s a great corner spot to pop in for lunch and dinner as it offers Filipino food as well as Filipino variations of popular dishes. This winter, the Bonifacio team has created some comfort foods, and a couple cocktails with which to wash it all back. Tiyula Itum: This dish has an almost sinister look to it, but don’t let the dark colored soup scare you off. The burnt coconut beef stew is both spicy and warm making for a great warming winter meal for anyone willing to venture into the more unique side of food. Kaldereta: This Filipino version of a classic dish might be the best beef stew I’ve ever tasted. It’s a hearty combination of tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, bell peppers, and green peas. Eat this all winter long and the frigid temperatures will be no match. Thrilla In Manila: Pisco, Amaro, Aztec chocolate bitters, grated cloves makes this cocktail have a perfect smoke. On top, charred lime and carnation garnish. Black Sand Beach: Originally slated to release during Halloween (note the creepy color), the Black Sand Beach cocktail boasts El Jimador Tequila, Campari, Blue Curacao, burnt coconut, cinnamon, homemade lemongrass and ginger syrup and fresh lime. •
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Five Years Strong Chef Jaime Perez celebrates anniversary cooking for Franklinton
Sto ry BY J ESS PEER | PHOTOS by Em m a Kat e Low
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f you’ve not yet made your way over the river and through downtown to experience what Franklinton has to offer, you’re missing out! It’s like grandma’s house, but with a better cocktail selection. Heck, you can even bring your grandma. Nestled between trains, historic infrastructure and new buildings popping up, you’ll find a few businesses that already call Franklinton home. Located in a 100-year-old warehouse shared with artists and startups is where you will find Strongwater Food & Spirits. Strongwater has a reputation for providing unique vegan eats as well as delicious non-vegan options, including what very well may be the best damn hot chicken sandwich in town. At the center of the culinary creations taking root in Franklinton is the executive chef at Strongwater, Jaime Perez.
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‟I come from a background of fine dining. I didn’t dumb that down when I came to Strongwater but I also didn’t want to do what fine dining places do.”
Perez comes from a strong family background in chef coats and has had a hand in many other local restaurants before landing at Strongwater. His love for cooking began as a child in Peru, where he would watch his mother in the kitchen. Here in Columbus, it would grow as his brother, Guillermo Perez, opened a Greek restaurant. “I started working as a server to help my brother out. During breaks I would cook family meals for the team and learned that I liked that much more than the front of house work.” A few kitchen gigs later, Perez became the sous chef at Barcelona. While there, he continued helping his Guillermo open Si Señor, the restaurant he owns currently. Perez also provided a hand in the openings of other local kitchens, such as Sidebar and Hot Chicken Takeover. “I really enjoy helping others as a sort of side gig. It’s cool to see somebody’s idea happen— to know their dream and help it come to fruition,” Perez said. It was that same enjoyment that led Perez to Strongwater. Lauren Conrath, the general manager at Strongwater, had previously worked with Perez at Barcelona. “She called me and it was just the right timing. I looked at this as not the chance to be an executive chef, but a chance for me to take on another project,” said Perez. This project would prove to be a large one and one that had challenged many chefs “with a menu ranging all the way from pretzels and steam buns to meatloaf and potatoes,” Perez observed. It’s not a big staff or a big kitchen so it’s hard to pull off a sporadic menu. It’s hard to keep up with a demand like that.” Perez continued, “I come from a background of fine dining. I didn’t dumb that down when I came to Strongwater but I also didn’t want to do what fine dining places do. I wanted to create something approachable and the main idea behind the menu was to make it affordable.” Years later, Chef Perez is still providing quality dining at an affordable price tag, continuing to find the balance between elegance and cost-effectiveness. “We have our struggles as far as figuring out what we can make work. The development of our menu comes from running specials to find out what works and what doesn’t,” said Perez. I want to give credit to the kitchen staff. I ask my staff to help me develop their ideas. I fine tune with them to create the menu, which we change seasonally.” The staff at Strongwater is small and includes sous chef Bill Smith, and the line cook and prep staff Kendall Harris, Alex Partlow, Jeremy Allan, Becky Navarro and Eddie Navarro. Strongwater will be celebrating it fifth anniversary this January. As the Franklinton area grows and changes, Chef Perez, whose winter seasonal offering will be hitting plates soon, is excited for “the opportunity to do cool things with the menu.” Perez hinted at the possibility of a brunch menu in the near future as well as a Strongwater expansion in the area with the hopes of benefiting the community and growing with the Franklinton neighborhood. “Franklinton is getting a whole rejuvenation and as more people and businesses come in, we’ll up the ante while staying true to our roots and intent with our menu,” said Perez. • 614columbus.com winter 2019
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From Neighborhood to Table 60
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By Ja e l a n i T u r n e r -W i l l i a ms • PHOTOS by Bri an Ka i ser 614columbus.com winter 2019
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n Parsons Avenue, there’s a new guilt-free way to enjoy your next meal. Preserving the idea of connecting over food and repurposing the globe at a grassroots level, Comune savors the necessity of a plant-based fix while promoting the revitalization of community. “If you get into our message, [vegan and vegetarianism] is there, but we’re very purposely not preachy. We make great food here; it just happens to not have meat in it,” says Comune co-owner Brook Maikut. “It’s the idea of making it inclusive versus exclusive. Everyone has different reasons. The reason why we don’t go into that is because I don’t like it when anyone beats their message over my head. I do appreciate when someone lives the lifestyle accordingly and sets an example. That’s what Comune wants to do.” In the mellow digs of Comune, the walls are pure-white concrete with shrubbery hanging overhead. Servers whip up house-made cocktails at an ample wooden bar. The second floor boasts a stark black scenery with a lone table that can be reserved for close seating to the kitchen, and a multitude of recipe and health books are placed precisely above. Guests can settle at long tables in the main dining area and expect to become chummy with their neighbor, even if it’s a total stranger. Of course, the idea of neighborly gratitude isn’t new for Maikut, as the restaurant’s staff has rubbed shoulders with healthy infrastructures just around the way. “Whether it’s Local Matters or the food bank down the street, we’re just trying to get our feet really grounded,” Maikut says. “If we do have eggs and cheese, we try to keep it local, sustainable, not having chickens that are being slaughtered afterwards. [I wanted] to get more involved with the earth essentially, and the way I was looking to do that creatively was through food. So it made sense to come up with an idea that mixed the two. The goal is to partner, get the word out, and invite the whole neighborhood in.” Having a flood of guests hasn’t been uncommon during Comune’s soft opening earlier this fall, as vegetarians, vegans and meat-eaters alike have raved over the restaurant’s global-influenced niche. Rather than arriving with an acquired taste, guests have relished in the spicy Japaneseinspired richness of the Dan Dan Noodle Bowl, a soft serving of the delectable Chocolate Avocado Cake and the mustard-tinted curry blend
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of the Coconut-Squash Soup. One staple dish has even been given a rave compliment from under the sea. “Someone came in last week and called the tempura eggplant sandwich the best fish sandwich they’ve ever had,” says Maikut. “They’re a huge fish advocate and they’d eaten them all over the country, and he was like, ‘This is my favorite one.’ ” Despite oceanic comparisons, Maikut and fellow co-owner Joe Galati capitalized on their past travels on land when they originally designed Comune. “When Joe and I were concepting the the whole thing. A lot of my travels to Scandinavia were popping up. Design-wise we are very Scandinavian: minimalist, but a lot of texture and warm elements to keep it cozy,” Maikut says.
“There’s a lot of different ways, like compost programs, that we’re doing to cut down on [our] carbon footprint, in general. Restaurants are notorious for being very wasteful,” Comune strives to make an imprint on sustainability— an environmentally-progressive initiative that the staff embraces from inside out. “There’s a lot of different ways, like compost programs, that we’re doing to cut down on [our] carbon footprint, in general. Restaurants are notorious for being very wasteful,” Maikut says. “If we run out of something tomorrow night, that’s just how it’s gonna be. I appreciate more when I go to a restaurant and they’re like, 'Oh, we’re actually out of that,' [rather] than it being an unlimited supply, which is weird.” With green renewability pressing ahead, Comune still wants to be recognized for crafting meals with wellness in mind. “Every one of these dishes can stand on its own and you will not be like, ‘Oh, it’s really missing something.’ No way, not a chance,” Maikut says. “ ‘Very intentional’ is what we’re trying to do here. The attention to detail and the amount of love we’ve given, it’s worthwhile when people notice it.” •
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Hot Spots Don’t fear the frost that’s coming...
By Em i ly A r b o gast p h otos by e mm a kat e low
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lot of people want to escape the biting cold of the winter or the blazing heat of the summer, and live in an artificial climate indoors until spring or fall arrives. But why live in a state with all four of the seasons if you are going to hide from half of them? Make this winter an unofficial midwest Polar Bear club, and have a drink by the fire(pit) this winter. Lift a pint to ole Jack Frost and visit these lovely watering holes that offer a rustic outdoor drinking experience.
BrewDog Franklinton 463 W Town St.
Beer offering MVP: The Punk Columbus was the first outpost of this insanely popular Scottish brewery, and the gifts keep coming with their expansion, including a brew-tel! Enjoy the deliciously inventive craft brews and pub food, and if you visit the patio pit, you can even bring your furry friend along.
Ill-Mannered Brewing Company 38 Grace Dr., Powell Beer offering MVP: Zach Morris This is a special bar because it all started from home brewing, and has slowly risen into a nano-brewery. This year they recently moved into their new space with an awesome patio and firepit to enjoy their ever-changing and evolving brews. • 614columbus.com winter 2019
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Land-Grant Brewing Company 424 W Town St.
Beer offering MVP: Stiff-Arm When you drink from Land-Grant, you get so much: an amazing series of craft beers, two firepits, RayRay’s food, but most importantly, you get a sense of community. Land-Grant is all about “beer for good,” and is committed to sustainability and giving back to the community.
Pins Mechanical Company 6558 Riverside Dr.
Specialty drink MVP: Chai Striker There is a phenomenon of adulting like a kid going on here, and it is a lot of fun to be a part of. Not only can you have a campfire-like experience with a kickass specialty drink, but you can go duckpin bowling, play bocce ball, ping pong, foosball, or even revisit an arcade game you might have played in the 80s.
Red Brick Tap & Grill 292 E Gates St.
Beer offering MVP: Winter White Ale This is a great neighborhood bar that you can find in Merion Village that boasts a variety of local Ohio beers, a firepit that gets lit-up at sundown, and a delicious pub menu.
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VASO Rooftop Lounge 6540 Riverside Dr.
Specialty drink MVP: The Full Montenegro This is a cool place to catch a drink by the fire because it also offers the whole world as a view, in a sense. They offer tapas, as well as entrees, and the drinks are the least of what will be on your mind when you catch that view.
Woodlands Tavern 1200 W 3rd Ave.
Specialty drink MVP: Skronk Juice by Taft’s Brewing Company in Cincinnati Woodlands has great live music, a unique selection of amazing comedians that visit, and has a rotating variety of different Ohio brewing companies. Grab an IPA, sit by their firepit, and watch what unfolds at this neighborhood bar.
Seventh Son Brewery 1101 N 4th St.
Beer offering MVP: The Scientist This neighborhood bar is a comfortable spot to get some great and unique craft beers, see different food trucks, and do some great people watching. •
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Sweet Surrender Getting lost in the Anthony-Thomas candy factory
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by L aur a Dac henb ac h p hotos by emm a kat e low
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t’s not a golden ticket, but it gets me in nonetheless. The little blue card given to me by the gift shop attendant holds the admission to this chocoholic’s wildest dream: a tour of a candy factory. The 152,000 square-foot Anthony-Thomas Candy Factory sits in an industrial park on the west side of Columbus. Its brick front recalls an earlier and more humble beginning which my guide narrates to me. In 1907, Anthony Zanetos immigrated to Columbus from Greece and became an apprentice candy maker for about 9 years before finally deciding to go into business for himself. Zanetos started the Co-op Dairy in Franklinton, where he continued to hone his candy-making craft. Then in 1947, Zanetos and his son Thomas opened the Crystal Fountain Restaurant on West Broad Street, a luncheonettestyle eatery serving up soup, sandwiches, soda fountain drinks, and ice cream. The Crystal Fountain proved to be a tremendous vehicle for candy, which soon outpaced regular food sales. Despite the rationing of sugar at the time, Zanetos was still able to meet his candy-making demand. Both Thomas’ status as a World War II veteran and his occupation as a confectioner made him eligible to receive 30,000 pounds of sugar a year. The father-son partnership was cemented as the two merged their first names and formed the AnthonyThomas Candy Company in 1952. The company went through several expansions to keep up with demand until 1995 when it moved into the building in which I’m standing, home to one of the largest candy companies in the Midwest. The next generation of candy makers, Thomas’ children, continue the family business as the current company owners and operators. Sons Joe, Timothy, and Greg can often be found on the factory floor, staying hands-on with candy production. Joe’s daughter Candi Trifelos handles the retail division, while her sister Carla Scully works at one of the stores. Scully’s husband Steve works in the factory as a floor supervisor. I’m led upstairs to a glassed-in catwalk overlooking a general candy production area, where I spy a very industrial-age-looking machine, all moving parts, wrapping candy bars specially made for Anthony-Thomas’ fundraising division. The company supports the American Cancer Society, schools, PTAs, and other non-profits by allowing groups to sell the candy for $1 a bar and split the profits. I also see some familiar Snickers labels running through a machine. Anthony-Thomas holds a contract with Mars, and processes and packages some of its candies. Trucking to and from the factory, as you might imagine, is discreet. True Anthony-Thomas confections that will be sold in one of the thirteen Central Ohio retail stores, however, are a more involved process. My guide points at a woman in a striped top holding a brush, spreading chocolate in a clear handmade mold, the type of mold that will create a chocolate Christmas tree. Carefully, she shakes the mold to even out the chocolate and get rid of air bubbles. 614columbus.com winter 2019
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“I could watch her all day,” sighs the guide. “That’s the great thing about Anthony-Thomas. People still care about candy and the process.” Employees are making peanut brittle today, which will be hand cut into squares. Tree bark candy also is also cut by hand, but on a distinctive diagonal. Packaging is also done by hand. Anthony-Thomas has employs 200 regular full-time workers as well as additional seasonal workers. Even from the catwalk, there’s a noticeable difference between the areas of the factory devoted for candy production, and those reserved for packaging, not just the faint aroma of melted chocolate, but the cooler temperature. A wonderful property of chocolate its low melting point. Good chocolate melts at body temperature, literally in your mouth. Great care is taken at the factory to make sure that its beautiful finished products stay that way. Zipping across the factory ceilings are a number of pipes wrapped in a silver foil coating (another temperature control). Each of them carries liquid chocolate to different areas of the factory, which then pumps a heavenly cascade of chocolate joy from a nozzle into large vats stirred with beaters. Giant copper kettles, chosen for heat conduction, line some of the walls. Anthony-Thomas does not process the cacao beans 70
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“That’s the great thing about Anthony-Thomas. People still care about candy and the process.” that make its chocolate, but rather sends specifications to processing plants, who then ship the customized liquid chocolate to the factory by truck, where it is emptied into reservoir tanks. The thought that I have been driving the Columbus freeways along with tanker trucks filled with 40,000 gallons of warm liquid chocolate is enough to make my heart stop. “I know, isn’t that wonderful?” The guide laughs a bit at the expression on my wide-eyed face. “They pump that chocolate into the holding tanks on the side of the factory, and it smells fabulous outside when they’re doing that. It really does.” In another area of the factory, I get to see a chocolatecoating machine being used to make English toffee. Pieces of candy ride conveyor-belt style into a curtain of chocolate, then continue down the belt to be cooled, while the runoff chocolate is caught and recycled from underneath. 30,000 pounds of chocolates are produced per shift at the factory on the nine lines. My tour ends where it began—in the 2,500 square-foot retail and gift shop where I receive one of Anthony-Thomas’ signature buckeyes: a molded chocolate shell with a with a white chocolate top (tinted the color of peanut butter) encasing a creamy peanut butter filling. I take a bite and wave to about twenty excited children who are waiting to begin their sweet adventure. Anthony Zanetos’ great-great-grandchildren, now high school and college-age, often use their break time to give tours and work in the retail shops, providing the AnthonyThomas Candy Company with their fifth generation of Columbus chocolate enthusiasts. No doubt it will provide me with my own chocolate fix for years to come as well. 614columbus.com winter 2019
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Tim e
e r ' u Flies When Yo
Having
Rum “Rum Evangelist” Chad Blanco serves up his six favorite walletfriendly rums
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ersatile and fun, rum’s not just for sailors and pirates, but for regular old Midwesterners like you. How to pick the best to warm your bones this winter? Here are my top 6 rums available in Ohio for the canespirit curious. Each of these rums is unadulterated/unsweetened and incredibly wallet-friendly at around $50 or less, the way it should be. In my opinion, the best selections for rum/rhum/ron can be found at Weiland's and Arena Wine & Spirits.
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Rhum JM VSOP
Hamilton Guyana
Rugged and earthy, this carefully-crafted cane spirit from the island of Martinique is made from distilling fresh-pressed sugarcane juice as opposed to molasses, known as rhum agricole. Aged in exBourbon barrels, try it as a substitute for rye in a classic, no-fuss manhattan at the Grass Skirt Tiki Room.
A big-bodied rum made from molasses with flavors of smoke and stone fruit from the historic stills of the Demerara River region. At 43% ABV, this is a more sippable version of the Hamilton Overproof (151) for beginners to gain an appreciation for this worldrenowned style of rum. Try this in a Demerara Cocktail at the Light of Seven Matchsticks.
By C h a d W h i te | p h oto by m e g a n l e i g h b a rnard
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Rum Fire Newly available in Ohio, this ultra-funky Jamaican rum comes from the legendary Hampden Estate. Ripe banana, roasted pineapple and brown spice amaze both the nose and palate. Unaged and untamed (63%!!), absolutely nothing compares. Turn your daiquiri game up to 11 with this one at home or with the Ohio Rum Society at their next meetup here in Columbus.
Rhum Neisson Blanc Another unaged flavor bomb, this rhum agricole from the French Caribbean exemplifies "terroir" in the cane spirits world. Grassy and floral, this is for the agave spirits lover. Try it in a classic Ti’ Punch (the official Martinican cocktail) or in a paloma in lieu of tequila blanco at the Grass Skirt Tiki Room.
Appleton Estate Rare A beautiful yet subtle Jamaican rum, this blend is cask-aged for no less than 12 years in the hot Caribbean climate, as opposed to the more forgiving Kentucky or Scotland. At less than $40, this sipper offers the most bang for an Ohioan’s buck. Try it neat, in a Rum Old-Fashioned at Citizens Trust, or in a "beertail" at Wolf’s Ridge.
Pipe Dream from 451 Spirits
Local, pot-distilled, aged in virgin American oak. A well-crafted, excellent example of molasses-based rum reminiscent of colonial New England. Unapologetically punk and colonial, I love this in a Sidecar. Visit our longtime pal Chad Kessler for a tour and tasting at his distillery in Clintonville, or order the "Put That in your Pipe" at Denmark on High.
Other honorable mentions: Duquesne Élevé Sous Bois (Martinique), Mount Gay Black Barrel (Barbados), and Smith & Cross (Jamaica).
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In Hooch Haven Inside jokes and information come with every bottle at Hausfrau Haven By A bby Ho ckm an Photos by collins laatsch
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ith one of the largest selections of wine in a brick and mortar shop in Columbus, Hausfrau Haven in German Village has a cellar and shop sporting thousands of bottles of wine and a wine bar pouring new varieties weekly. Co-owners Faye Muncie and Julie D’Elia have been at the helm for more than two decades and are getting even better serving the local community over time. I find my way through the cobblestone sidewalks to talk to Muncie and D’Elia on a Tuesday, which is Muncie’s busiest day of the week with vendors. “Even though you don’t swallow the wine during the tastings, I’m typically feeling pretty good by the end of the day,” she tells me. We laugh as I think it would be impossible not to feel great every day with floorto-ceiling bottles of wine waiting to be sampled. Depending on the pace, it could take years to work your way through the stock in Hausfrau Haven. As we sit at the large handcrafted bar, Muncie takes me on a journey through how she selects wine for the shop. She explains the importance of going to the source to learn about the soil, weather conditions, and grapes that produce each bottle. She has hand-selected everything I see around us, taking multiple trips abroad each year. “I know what I like, but I also keep the customers’ palates in mind,” Muncie says of the monumental task of buying for the store. While she is tuned in to her customers’ tastes, such as popular California cabernets, Muncie’s 74
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“It is a place where people can get together and gather on a cold Friday night or stay in touch with friends.”
fondness for European wines and encyclopedic knowledge naturally leads her to educate and encourage locals to sip a vintage from abroad. The bar’s rotating wine list is heavily European-centered, with French and Italian reds among the customer favorites. Her journey from casual wine consumer to expert connoisseur started after the purchase of the shop. She speaks candidly about her number one recommendation for how to better understand wine, which is, “Just taste, taste, taste!” Perhaps there is hope for my palate yet. D’Elia chimes in to my right, “When we first took over the shop, the original owners were very knowledgeable about wine, but Muncie has taken it to a whole other level. She really loves wine. She goes to trade tastings and seminars practically weekly and spends a lot of time learning about it. It is a huge passion of hers.” While Muncie globetrots to find the stock, D’Elia is in charge of the store’s operations, as well as a construction business. Her Italian heritage is evident in the way she greets everyone who walks in like family and puts customers at ease. I am convinced she has never met a stranger. As I ask about the history of the shop, D’Elia tells me that the store honors the work of previous owners Fred Holdridge and Howard Burns. The men were German Village visionaries, always striving to make the area an exceptional place for families and starting events that still exist today. Their first priority was always the community. “When we put in the wine bar, its purpose was community,” D’Elia says. “It is a place where people can get together and gather on a cold Friday night or stay in touch with friends. A lot of what we do here is about community.” Customers still enjoy memories of Holdridge and Burns throughout the shop, like the quarter they glued to the floor decades ago that people still try to pick up. Their comical handwritten signs are displayed with the two most famous on opposite sides of the front door reading, “Unattended Children Will Be Sold” and “Come Back Again. Bring Money.” As D’Elia and Muncie reminisce about the store’s roots, they remember their first full day of ownership. After purchasing the building and business, they returned on April Fool’s Day to discover they were locked out. “There we were. We bought a building we couldn’t get into!” D’Elia laughed. Holdridge and Burns brought the forgotten keys down from their upstairs apartment shortly after. Each part of the shop seems to hold a different memory of the previous owners, just as D’Elia and Muncie have been creating memories with their customers over the past twentyone years. The shop’s cozy, lived-in feel is the result of decades of care and community involvement. With a variety of price points and something to satisfy every wine lover, Hausfrau Haven’s unpretentious, yet classic atmosphere makes it the perfect hang-out any day of the week. A place of memories, community, and an almost record-shattering amount of wine, D’Elia and Muncie have carried on the tradition of allowing the shop to become something bigger than themselves. • Hausfrau Haven is at 769 S Third St. Visit hausfrauhaven.com for more information. 614columbus.com winter 2019
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Praise the Lard! Proselytizing for Pig Fat By Lyn ds e y T e te r • p h otos by S e th T e te r
"Ar e yo u f ryi n g e ggs? P u t down t h at spr ay bot t l e o f b u t t e r - f l avo r e d WTF eve r pa n g re as e r a n d s co o p a c h u nk o f l a rd f ro m t h e t u b l i k e a b oss ." 76
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I don’t want to make anyone uncomfortable, but I just scraped the bottom of a five-gallon bucket of lard that has been in my possession for three short weeks. We brought home this bounty a couple weeks ago from a fall harvest of home-raised pigs. I’ve been on a bit of a bender. I’m sure the shame will settle in any moment now. I think if you dig through abandoned regions of our pantry you might find a dusty, half-empty bottle of olive oil, but our family worships firmly in the sect of Pig Fat now. No coconut oils, no vegetable oils. Our conversion started practical: I could no longer justify bringing more fats and oils into the house, given my line of work as a hog farmer. The porky burden and my googling out of desperation, however, ultimately opened my eyes to the Glory, and now I spend my days trying to spread the Good Lard Gospel to everyone I meet: Eat lard, cook with lard, bake with lard, make soaps and candles with lard, rub lard on your hands and face. Have you tried my new lard lip balm? The reaction has been mixed. Don’t call it a comeback. Pig fat has been utilized since feral swine started following bands of hunter-gatherer homosapiens. In other words, it’s not exactly new in any region of the globe. At its peak in America, lard oiled our machines; preserved the food that fed laborers, miners, peasants, in days before refrigeration; and fueled our lamps and waterproofed our boots. It was, in some cases, more valuable than the meat itself. It was sold by the barrel. We called our pantries, “larders,” for goodness sake.
Who butchered lard? Somewhere along the line, lard got the stink eye. It became synonymous with cardiac arrest and gluttony. Lard Ass was suddenly a derogatory term used at a barf-o-rama. This might be another thing we can blame on the baby boomers (like carpeting over hardwood floors) for perpetuating myths about lard, though the first blow was struck much earlier. By most accounts, lard fell out of favor around the same time that Procter & Gamble was sitting on way too much cottonseed oil. Folks stopped buying their cottonseed oil candles after we all got electricity. (Yeah, this is an old grudge.) So they created a lab-based evil lard imposter that benefited from a marketing strategy advanced beyond its time. Crisco, they called it, was “pure and wholesome, digestible and clean!” It was made from vegetables, which are beyond reproach, and at the time, before we knew anything about the trans fats that the hydrogenation process created, it was believed to be healthy alternative. The slow poisoning of public opinion began. Lard was gross. Animal fat was suspect. In fact, all saturated fat was on the naughty list. Then, in the early 80s, “The Other White Meat” campaign from hog farmers themselves, took fat shaming to self-hating levels. Producers began breeding all the lovely fat and flavor out of the humble American pig in a failed attempt to compete with leaner, paler chicken meat. Pig meat should not be anything like chicken meat. For the record, I stand firm in my convictions: chickens do the best job at chicken meat. • 614columbus.com winter 2019
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How does lard “happen” now? Lucky for me, from the rubble rises a few old school heritage breeds of hog that never benefited from this leaner pork production. They missed the “skinny” memo, and swag around the forest present day with a thick layer of fat on their bodies, as the Lard God intended. Also lucky for me, this creamy, flavorful fat is on the upswing as those in the culinary world, celebrity chefs and consumers alike start to preach its virtues, though with way too many disclaimers if you ask me. For those curious about the complicated process of lard, I’ll tell you: pigs, good pigs, anyway, are fat. If you take the fat of this beast and dice it, you can heat it up in a stock pot until it melts and then strain the liquid into a tub. Did you want it to be more mysterious? Sorry, that’s it. No chemical solvent baths, centrifuges or bleaching. No “interesterification,” or inert gas blankets. If that’s the kind of freaky stuff you’re into, ye must seek alternative fats. Personally, I’m a simple girl who likes a simple process. What can I say?
But will I die, though? According to a BBC report in January, researchers ranked the Top 100 foods that provide the best balance of a person’s daily nutritional requirements. Pork fat is sandwiched between swiss chard and beet greens at No. 8 for its high levels of minerals and B vitamins. Mic drop. It has less saturated fat than butter or coconut oil. It has zero trans fats, and its oleic acid game is strong. All things in moderation, yes, but the point is that lard did nothing to deserve its modern villain status. As the leader among my peers for total lifetime lard consumption, my cholesterol is “athlete” status. I often wonder: what if I live forever? •
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Fine, I ’m listening. How does lard earn my trust? Everybody has got to start with the basics. Flaky pie crusts are impossible without lard. Biscuits? Same. Tortillas. Tamales. Refried beans. Dip your toe in the water of offering lard-based solutions to every problem. Fair warning: the slope becomes slippery. Did you know that you can season a bit of lard with salt, pepper, rosemary and red wine vinegar? Whip it up into something called Pork Butter and spread it on crusty bread? Did you know that you can slowly cook entire shoulder roasts submerged in lard, and let them cure in their own fat? (Google pork confit.) Did you know you can render lard in a smoker and cook potatoes in the smoky oil? Bro, do you even lard?
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Do I have to rub it on my face? Listen. There is a two-year waiting list for baby foreskin facials, and y’all gonna get weird about a little bacon grease? I’ve only recently gone whole hog on lard-as-cosmetics, and I can tell you that the lip balm made with lard-based beeswax and honey has cured my farmer-cracked-winter-face problems. We’ve made cupboards full of pure lard soaps and shampoo bars, and we’re burning lard candles and slathering lard skin repair cream. I have no regrets. In fact, I’m googling lard-based pomades and beard balms as we speak. The Lard’s been good to me. Why stop now? But how will I get through this, I’m so scared? Are you frying eggs? Put down that spray bottle of butter-flavored WTF-ever pan greaser and scoop a chunk of lard from the tub like a boss. Are you making brownies for your kid’s classroom? Throw that canola oil out the window and straight to hell. Obviously, if you’re heating anything in a pan, meat, potatoes, vegetables, I don’t have to tell you what to do. It’s a cooking oil, guys. You can handle this. Get out there and empty those tubs. • 614columbus.com winter 2019
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Grains of Tradition
Celebrating Korean-American New Year in Columbus By P hi l i p K i m | P h otos by b r i a n ka i s e r
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In the country of my origin, Korea, the New Year holiday Seollal is regarded as one of the most important celebrations of the year. For Koreans, the New Year doesn’t ring in at midnight on January 1st. Instead, Seollal takes place in late January or early February, as Korean holidays are determined by the lunar calendar. While the West has already nursed their hangovers, returned to work, and broken their resolutions, Koreans anticipate the annual three-day gathering for the new year, a chance to honor their past as they head into the future. From the traditional hanbok, a colorful dress that dates back to the 3rd century BCE to the folk game yutnori, whose origin dates back to the 1st century BCE to the performing of ancestral rites (the paying of respects to elders of the lineage) the Korean New Year is steeped in heritage, history, and family. And, of course, the vast and diverse array of traditional foods and drink are inextricable from the event. Tteokguk (pronounced duck-gewk), is the soup at the centerpiece of the New Year celebration. Without tteokguk, the New Year can’t properly begin. The origin of tteokguk dates back over 700 years to the Chosun Dynasty in Korea. Tteok, or rice cake, the ubiquitous food in the Korean cuisine, utilized in a variety of dishes from street foods to desserts, is the main ingredient of the soup. In the past, white rice, which is used to make the cakes, was especially revered and set aside for the elite. For the common people of Korea, it was brought out only for special occasions, such as the New Year. •
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"The origin of tteokguk [duck-gewk] dates back over 700 years to the Chosun Dynasty in Korea." Now, tteokguk is synonymous with Seollal and is served in restaurants all across Korea, and now in the United States as well. Although a simple dish, it is one that is loaded with meaning. Some say the oval-shaped rice cakes are meant to represent the shape of a coin, assuring prosperity in the coming years. Others believe that it represents the sun, symbolizing the dawning of a new day. Eating tteokguk during the New Year promises good luck, and signals a year gain in age. Tteokguk is a simple yet flavorful soup. The dense, thick, and chewy rice cake soaks up the flavor of the salty broth and provides a robust texture. Served with marinated ground beef, julienned cooked eggs, green onions, and seaweed, the savory soup is a Korean comfort food, similar to chicken-noodle soup in the West. And it’s a dish that I’ve only recently rediscovered. As I grow older, I seem intent on reconnecting with the culture that brought me up and informed my world today. In Ashtabula, Ohio, where I grew up, my family attended a small Korean church that was at the center of the cultural community. Many Koreans immigrated there in the 1970s, and the church was the central support system. As Koreans began to integrate into American and Western society, they took on the some of the traditions of the West, like celebrating the New Year on January 1st. 84
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Every year, I would go to church on New Year’s Eve for the weekend festivities. After eating plenty of tteokguk, a yutnori tournament occurred, and then a countdown to the New Year at midnight. Those Korean immigrants adapted to their new life and melded together two different traditions into one, and that is what I think about when I have tteokguk at the New Year. Three years ago I reunited with the tradition of tteokguk at New Years when I decided to cook it for my wife Anna at our first New Year’s together. It was a big deal to share a part of my culture with her, and to reconnect with an important tradition that I had not experienced in a long time. The next year, we decided to take a trip through Niagara Falls to Toronto for the New Year, and continued the tradition of eating tteokguk in Toronto’s wonderful Koreatown. The year after that we met up with Anna’s sister, and the three of us made our way to Wisconsin to visit the House on the Rock. On the way back, we stumbled into a Korean restaurant in Madison and shared a bowl of tteokguk, that year’s tradition fulfilled. The traditions and rituals associated with holidays are celebrated universally, but we all have intimate and personal ways we make these celebrations our own. This year, whether you celebrate the way you have always done, or you are just now starting a new tradition, I hope you enjoy all of the personal ways you ring in the New Year, especially the traditions that help reaffirm your journey and signal the potential of the future to come. • Tteokguk can be found in Korean and Asian restaurants throughout Columbus. Tteokguk from Diaspora is pictured here. 614columbus.com winter 2019
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Piccadilly Café teaches children the ways of cuisine and curiosity Piccadilly Circus is a public gathering place where five streets come together to organize London’s chaotic West End. Piccadilly Modern Play and Creative Café in Bexley on East Main is a cheerful space where the Columbus parent can carve out a few hours of order within their chaotic day in a way that can’t be done in a regular coffee shop, fast casual restaurant, or park setting. Piccadilly allows a child to be involved in structured play or classes while a parent has lunch, catches up online, chats with adults, or just leaves to get a massage. 86
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By L aur a Dac hen bac h p hotos by emm a kat e low
Allyson Morena, Columbus parent and owner of Piccadilly Café, reflected on her experiences to form some of the café’s philosophy to meet the simultaneous, but differing, needs of children and parents to play, socialize, explore, network, and enjoy a new phase of their lives. Morena wanted a place where being a parent didn’t mean she couldn’t be an adult as well. “When it comes to parents and moms and new moms, you’re not really sure where to go. In your life you may have just defined yourself by your career, and all the sudden you’ve stopped and now you’re wondering what you’re going to do, and how do you find yourself and how do you get to know yourself as a mom,” she said. In a world that seems to be designed around adultfriendly destinations and kid-friendly locations, but not both at the same time, Piccadilly has become that place where kids can be with kids, and parents can spend quality time with other adults, and everyone can be themselves (occasional meltdowns included)—a bit of a rarity in the world of busy families.
“There’s places where you go and it’s just for kids. You go in and you go out—maybe like a Gymboree class or something where’s there’s not a lot of opportunity to meet other moms,” explained Morena. “If you go to Starbucks and you have screaming baby you’re kind of anxious about it and don’t know if you’re annoying everybody else.” Piccadilly’s “hybrid” space houses a play area, a child-sized amphitheatre, and outdoor seating area, and Piccafe, a café that serves up grilled cheese and chicken nuggets along with harvest kale salad and avocado toast, so that no one’s tastes or nutrition are compromised. 614columbus.com winter 2019
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“I have everyone show me their sour face, and we make faces when we taste the lemons,”
Among Piccadilly’s many popular classes is Piccadilly’s Culinary Institute. Children ages 18 months to six years old make biscuits, muffins, empanadas, and other delicious treats. Unique and challenging, the Culinary Institute is again designed around opportunities Morena wishes had been available for her own children when they were younger. And for Morena, it’s almost never too early to learn to love kitchens and cooking. “When they’re 18 months or so, they’re learning that tasting food’s ok. They’re kind of getting used to being in a classroom setting...watching other kids do things,” Morena said. “As they get older, they’re understanding, ‘Oh the food that shows up in front of me, that’s comprised of different elements.’ ” Morena lets children participate as much as they are able, knowing that children are more likely to try different tastes and different foods when they help make those foods. (Operating the mixer is especially popular, as one might imagine.) When the class bakes frosted lemon meltaway shortbread cookies, it’s almost a guarantee that everyone will want some frosting, but everyone also tries a bit of lemon.
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“I have everyone show me their sour face, and we make faces when we taste the lemons,” laughed Morena, who is literally a “hands-on” teacher, helping small fingers squeeze a lemon, zest a rind, strain seeds, or blend butter and sugar. Curiosity, cooperation, physical coordination, social skills, and fun all comes together in class where children learn that they have the power to shape and create a dish, controlling the colors, flavors and appearance. Ultimately, Morena hopes that the classes will create more general food awareness of the beauty of natural foods. “All these natural foods can come together and make something,” Morena said. “Those extra ingredients don’t need to be added.” Cooking and life depends on finding balance, and Piccadilly helps with both—providing a physical space for families to gather and enjoy, and a place to help redefine productivity and the idea of the “perfect parent.” “One of my favorite things is when people are having birthday parties for their kids and they’re inviting others that they met at Piccadilly and they’re creating long friendships out of that,” Morena said. “It’s great.”
Piccadilly Café is located at 2501 E Main St. in Bexley. For hours, events, and class schedules, visit piccadillydally.com. 614columbus.com winter 2019
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Beyond the Baked Potato: Winter veggies provide taste without waste at local restaurants By Olivia Miltne r | P hotos by B r i a n Kai s e r
The appeal of spring, summer and fall vegetables, with their bright colors and light textures, is an undeniable sign of freshness and bounty. Winter veggies stored away in a root cellar? Less romantic. But that doesn’t stop Columbus restaurants from employing some creativity so that you can eat local year-round. Celeriac is one of those strange root vegetables that find their way onto produce shelves when the weather turns chilly. It has a bulbous, white-ish bottom with small roots hanging onto it and leafy celery-like stalks growing from the top. But unlike those who may be bewildered by this vegetable, also known as celery root, Rockmill Tavern Chef Jay Kleven has a secret love for it. “We prefer more challenging roots, tubers and rhizomes,” Kleven said. “How do we get people to enjoy vegetables that are hearty and sometimes not full of flavor? How do we transform those things so we get a product that really highlights wintertime and highlights cuddling up and staying warm and that hearty feeling in your belly?” He and the team at Rockmill recently took celeriac, covered it with beef tallow and barbecued it with Saison Noir beer and smoked shoyu. The dish turned out chewy, like meat. Besides Rockmill, restaurants around Columbus are finding creative ways to serve fresh, savory and flavorful food with their winter produce. Motivated by a need to find the best-tasting ingredients, a drive to experiment with new recipes and a desire to support the local economy, chefs like Kleven are developing dishes their guests can indulge in for a bit of warmth this winter. Sangeeta Lakhani, owner and executive chef of The Table, says eating locally and seasonally provides better taste, texture and nutritional value—a tomato in the summer, for example, is far superior to a tomato in the winter. It also supports Ohio farmers, who may need to find ways to sell their produce year-long. “I don’t really know if there’s another way to eat if we want this world to survive,” Lakhani says. “You have to be more flexible with your palette and how you cook because…[farmers] have to also stay in business throughout the year, and if you stop eating what’s in season that means you’re buying stuff at grocery stores that came from wherever.” •
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Lakhani’s favorite ingredient to cook with in the winter is squash; she loves the different varieties with their wide range of flavors and textures. This year, she has a new seafood dish: Arctic Char with kabocha squash, apples, fennel and pickled mustard seeds. Spaghetti squash, she finds, is a convenient alternative for gluten-free noodles. Of all her dishes that showcase this gourd, at the top of her list is roasted acorn squash stuffed with quinoa, mushrooms, thyme and a sherry-sage brie bechamel. She’s experimenting with a yam or sweet potato mousse for the brunch menu, maybe with togarashi, tare and cured eggs. Squash is a common ingredient for trial and error at Rockmill too. There, the team has been pickling, fermenting and curing all fall to get ready for a long winter. Kleven says one of their projects has been wrapping delicata, butternut and acorn squashes in a housemade butter and koji and curing them for up to a month. He has a rotating variety of squashes rolled in a miso compound topped with seasonal veggies as an alternative to a leafy salad. Meanwhile, over at The Guild House, executive chef John Paul Iacobucci is fermenting butternut squash, which he says ends up looking and tasting a bit like mango. “When our local farmers do come by, we try and just pick up what they have and then challenge ourselves to make whatever we can out of it,” Iacobucci said. But winter produce is a wide umbrella. The Guild House has a seafood dish with roasted rutabaga and brussel sprout leaves. The restaurant also serves a shredded cauliflower side and pumpkin soup with enhanced sweetness and creaminess thanks to coconut milk. Rockmill has a heritage carrot dish in which they heat carrots in carrot juice with a little bit of ginger and fresh apple cider for 92
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“ When our local farmers do come by, we try and just pick up what they have and then challenge ourselves to make whatever we can out of it,” about 12 hours before roasting and reglazing them with a reduction of that carrot juice. Lakhani loves using persimmons in the winter, and she substituted them into a duck dish served with wild rice and, in the summer, peaches. She has a small plate with beets, burrata and a blood orange marmalade. Although some winter produce might takes a little extra care and creativity to bring out its potential, and although larger tubers and squashed might need a few moments to cook down, Kleven recommends an easy and a favorite technique for all winter vegetables: roasting. “Practice that old French method of set it and forget it,” Kleven said. “Then you develop these really complex earthy flavor palettes that you can add to whole meals as a substitute for your vegetables.” For him, the best way to roast a vegetable like squash is, on a sheet tray without oil, to douse it in an interesting spice and a bit of salt, and set it right on the oven rack on a low heat or a long time. Iacobucci’s recommendation was even simpler: clean the seeds out, add some butter and salt and throw it in the oven. He says it goes great with pork, fish steak and chicken. “Especially in the Midwest, people tend to use winter produce a lot more than they use summer produce. We are a meat and potato country,” Lakhani said. “People have an easier time with cooking stews and baking potatoes and sweet potato with marshmallows or whatever...they just need to expand that into adding more flavor like adding ginger or turmeric or garlic.” Adding the right spices, Lakhani says, doesn’t mean the food needs to be spicy to get some taste buds dancing. Those curious veggies sitting on shelves and in crates could be the perfect canvas on which to experiment with some new flavors. •
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Consume and Conquer: Food and Drink Trails Await You This Winter By R e g i n a F ox I l lu str ati o n s by Rya n Cas k e y
Cold weather brings a builtin excuse to stay snuggled up inside and hibernate this winter. But (614) wants to give you every reason to go out and brave the frigid temperatures. Unlike a beer crawl, food and drink trails are a bit more organized, and you feel an actual sense of accomplishment
at the end of your travels. We’ve compiled a partial list of the fine indoor adventures available to the local foodie or beer snob who wants a conquest to brighten up their winter darkness. Simply find your culinary passion and register. And with the abundance of food and drink trails established in our fine
city, you’ll also have motivation to keep consuming until you’ve finished. (No one likes a quitter.) Here are eight of my favorite edible and drinkable tours just begging for you to embark upon this winter:
Columbus Coffee Trail:
Dublin Celtic Cocktail Trail: Round up your best mates and hit the Celtic Cocktail Trail in Dublin. There are 11 stops (which you are strongly advised not to make all in one day) featuring such green drinks as 101 Beer Kitchen’s “Muck of the Irish,” Pins Mechanical Company’s “Leatherlip’s Revenge,” and Vaso’s “Liffey’s Cooler.” It’s like St. Patrick’s Day whenever you please! And yes, there’s a t-shirt prize involved. Sláinte, lads.
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If your mittens aren’t doing the job, warm up your paws this winter with the Columbus Coffee Trail. With 23 stops around the city, this trail is guaranteed to get your heart rate and productivity a-buzzing. And not only will you be hella caffeinated when you’re through, but after just four stamps on your trail card, you’ll be the proud new owner of a Columbus Coffee t-shirt.
Ohio Buckeye Candy Trail: Football’s not really your thing but you still want to participate in game day festivities? Skip the stadium and hit the Ohio Buckeye Candy Trail! This sweet, 31stop adventure takes you all around the great state of Ohio to the best bake shops growing chocolate and peanut butter nuts, including seven right here in Columbus. Gotta eat on the run? Hit up the Chocolate Cafe at 1855 Northwest Boulevard for an onthe-go dozen in an incredible, edible box!
Columbus Meat Lover's Tour: Columbus Ale Trail: With 40 breweries and counting, Columbus boasts one of the booziest craft beer scenes in the Midwest (next, the world!). We don’t want you wasting precious porter time behind bars, so queue up the Uber, lushes, we’re going Columbus Ale Trailing! From sours to sasions, rooftops to restaurants, you and 2,370-ish of your closests friends will crawling your way through the tipsy trail and gathering prizes along the way.
Where’s the beef, you ask? Why, on the Columbus Meat Lover’s Tour, of course! On this four-stop journey, carnivores will encounter and devour farm-fresh cuts and innovative preparations, a pair of ethnic cuisines displaying novel uses for a wide range of proteins, and a smokehouse with a long history of preparing European-style smoked and cured meats at Skillet, Thurn’s, Apna Bazaar, and The Refectory. (Vegans and vegetarians need not apply for this one.)
Ohio Ice Cream Trail: You’ll scream for the two local scoop shops on the Ohio Ice Cream Trail. Our very own Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at 714 N High St, Columbus and Johnson’s Real Ice Cream at 2728 E Main St, Bexley landed themselves a spot on the highly-coveted 20-stop list. Unfortunately, there’s no prize for completing this trail, but a t-shirt is moot compared to the joy a few scoops of ice cream can bring you.
Ultimate Pizza Road Trip Across America: On an ambitious mission to find the best pizza in the United States, a national blog known for its “best of” lists uncovered two saucy gems right here in Columbus. Rave Reviews took their readers around the country to find the 50 best pizzas and it just so happens that two are located right here in the (614). Rubino’s Pizza and Mikey’s Late Night Slice are both slivers in the pie that is the Ultimate Pizza Road Trip Across America.
Alt Eat Ethnic Food Tour: Give your meat and potatoes diet a break with the Columbus Food Adventures Alt Eat Ethnic Food Tour where you’ll learn about the cuisines and cultures of some of Columbus’s finest immigrant kitchens. Experience Somali cuisine, eat Vietnamese sandwiches, sample Nigerian food, visit a Mexican bakery, learn about Salvadoran delicacies, and more on this unique adventure. 614columbus.com winter 2019
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Steamin’ Spirits A selection of Columbus hot cocktails Was it too cold for a craft draft today? Is the wine at home just not warming you up? Does a Moscow mule actually make you think of a Siberian winter? If the answers to any of these questions was yes, fear not dear reader as we at Stock & Barrel have a quick and effective list for hot winter spirits to help lift your spirits. Here are your hot and boozy Columbus Cocktails. By Aa r o n W e tl i | P HOTO BY BRIAN KAISER
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THE SPIKED CIDER at ODDFELLOWS LIQUOR BAR | 1038 N High St. Oddfellows definitely has a strong and passionate group of followers and if you are familiar with their craft cocktail selection, this is not news to you. The Spiked Cider sounds simple, but is as intricate as Oddfellows décor is eccentric. Served in a coffee mug, the HOT cider is accompanied by a healthy dose of Tullamore D.E.W. Irish Whiskey, Averna (a sweet and thick Italian liqueur), and cinnamon syrup. Sweet, spicy, and hot, this warm winter cocktail packs a punch and at $7 doesn’t break the bank.
TOASTED COCONUT HOT BUTTERED RUM at GRASS SKIRT TIKI ROOM | 105 N Grant Ave. Do you need a tropical vacation but have family and work requirements that keep you from hopping on a plane? If so, stop by the Grass Skirt Tiki Room for an island vibe and some classic island drinks. Specifically, get the Toasted Coconut Hot Buttered Rum. Furiously hot water accompanies house-infused coconut rum, allspice butter, Cruzan coconut, Cruzan 151 (that will warm you up), cinnamon and sugar. Oh yeah, it gets set on fire directly on your table.
NIGHT HUNT at SIDEBAR COLUMBUS | 122 E Main St. The mixologists at Sidebar are so talented, they can even make Jägermeister seem classy. Enter the Night Hunt: Jägermeister served toddy style with sugar, bitters, piping hot water with a side of hand-whipped cream. This rich and delicious concoction is only $11 and certainly isn’t your father’s Hot Toddy. Also, when at Sidebar, don’t be afraid to go for a very traditional, yet very delicious and affordable Irish Coffee. This no-frills cocktail warms you up and is the perfect ratio of coffee and liquor.
HOT APPLE CIDER at TIP TOP KITCHEN & COCKTAILS | 73 E Gay St. This mulled (heated with spices and fruit) hot apple cider is delicious and versatile as it can be served with Old Crow Whiskey, Stoli Salted Caramel Vodka (my recommendation) and Cracken Rum. Each choice is delicious and ranges anywhere from $4.50 to $5.75. What this means is that you can have that awesome and lowkey date night, where each of you have two ciders and split the Ohio Nachos, for less than $35. In fact, I am going to text my wife about this now. 614columbus.com winter 2019
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The James shows a whole-food, plant-based diet fights cancer risk. By A n n e Vas e y | P h otos by Bri an Ka i ser
On a crisp fall morning driving through the hills of south east Ohio, Jim Warner talks about his new mission: to bring the message of a whole-food, plant-based diet to every doorstep. Trained as an executive chef and currently the Program Director of Food and Nutrition at the Wexner Medical Center, Warner now travels the state in the James Mobile Education Kitchen. The newest research out of the James Cancer Institute shows how eating a whole-food, plant-based diet can both help prevent and treat certain types of cancer. Understanding the barriers that exist to teach people about science and nutrition, the James has started the mobile kitchen to deliver this knowledge to everyone. On this particular morning, Warner was headed to the Chillicothe Fire Department to teach first responders how to practice healthy eating habits. Other days, you can find him on a school ground in the Hilltop, where he works with the Highland Youth Garden to teach the students how to grow fresh vegetables and prepare healthy meals. Warner and his team are spreading the message far and wide with a goal of empowering people of all ages with cooking skills that will help them live a healthy life. “It is important to remember that simply eating more fruits and vegetables will not cure cancer. One of the most powerful things that a plant-based diet can do is empower patients and give them back a sense of control. We know weight control is an important concern for some cancer survivors, and with the low caloric density of a plant-based foods, this type of eating pattern is beneficial.” It may sound simple to tell people the benefits of a diet that revolves around plants, but it’s another thing entirely to show them. Because our culture is saturated with fast-food, microwave meals, and sugar, it can be very difficult to educate people on changing what for so long has been considered the normal American diet. Warner has a multi-faceted uphill climb. • 98
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“Unfortunately, our culture tends to demonize one thing at a time. 30 years ago it was smoking.” These habits begin early, and once established can be difficult to change. Warner knows all too well the enculturation process behind the deep-set American habits. “[It starts] slowly with cute characters and advertising during cartoons, hooking kids on unhealthy food at an early age, food with toys and prizes in the box. We need to teach parents that this is misleading. It is not healthy… When kids reach the age to think for themselves, their palat is already formed and it’s almost too late.” Another large obstacle in the path toward a healthy diet is the national issue of food deserts. Food deserts refer to any location, usually urban or rural, where grocery stores are few and far between. This leads many living in struggling communities where resources are scarce to choose among fast-food and packaged meals. The lack of basic nutrition, combined with inadequate public transit, makes eating healthy simply unaffordable and inconvenient. Warner said that without a grassroots effort to support community gardens, farmers markets, food banks, and donations, many neighborhoods and towns will continue to be victims of the current cycle. The problem is vast, but Warner shared that the Mobile Education Kitchen has connected with the Ohio State Extension Services to discuss opportunities for additional food and nutrition education in the Appalachian region of Ohio. Though it may be an uphill battle, he sees progress and momentum among grassroots activists and community leaders. “You see such a nice cohort of people who really want to see change… I trust there will be a dedicated group of people who will see this movement through, beyond [the point of] a trend. I have met a number of amazing young community gardeners whose passion for sustainably grown produce is inspiring. Culinary schools throughout Ohio now offer plantbased curriculums, and the Culinary Vegetable Institute in Huron, Ohio is blazing the trail with their farm offerings and creative classes.” The genius of the mobile food kitchen is the casual, interactive cooking demonstrations designed to make cooking and eating healthy both fun 100
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and delicious. Warner told me that eating plant-based is often assumed to be more expensive. However, the cheapest and most protein-packed foods are rice, beans, chickpeas, soy, and dried fruits. Learning how to shop and read labels is almost as important as getting comfortable in the kitchen. The key to a successful transition is to continue to try new foods, diversify your diet, and meal prep to help fight cravings and save time. “On a Sunday afternoon, food prep a big pot of black beans and rice. Roast a few sweet potatoes, make some green beans. Plan more deeply into your week so you aren’t tempted and you have an easy, healthy meal ready to eat.” Warner and his devoted team want to prove to people that cooking with vegetables doesn’t mean you need to sacrifice flavor. Winter may seem like a tough time to start adopting a new cancer-fighting lifestyle, but today there are endless cook books, blogs, and restaurants specifically devoted to the plant-based movement. And this is a wave that The Mobile Kitchen is riding. When Warner works with communities where urban gardens are growing, he sees the spark. “When people start gardening, they gain a whole new respect for food. They see it come from the ground or off the vine. It’s almost an epiphany moment for them.” He speaks fondly of kids’ faces lighting up when they try a fresh raspberry or zucchini for the first time. After a few sessions with the James Mobile Kitchen, one Columbus school changed their food service provider to one that included more fresh fruits and vegetables for the student lunches. This daily habit-building is exactly the slow success Warner knows is possible. “I have a picture as my screensaver of a young student eating a homemade kohlrabi fritter with a guacamole and Greek yogurt sauce. The look on his face was pure bliss.” • To learn more about Warner, his team, and his work, visit cancer.osu. edu and search “mobile kitchen.” 614columbus.com winter 2019
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Columbus breweries no longer a downtown phenomenon By M i tc h H oo p e r | p h otos P ROV I D E D by JERO MY LAUX
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f it seems like there’s been at least one new brewery in all of the recent Stock & Barrel magazines, it’s because there is. And would you look at that? The winter issue is here, and we have three new breweries in the city. It’s time to get drinkin’.
Olentangy River Brewing Company | 303 Green Meadows Dr. Standing as the first brewery to land in Lewis Center is Olentangy River Brewing Company, the brainchild of Scott and Bethany Schweitzer and Ryan and Sarah Wilkins. While Ryan said he and the owners aren’t brewers, they were definitely beer drinkers and that’s what led them to opening their own brewery. It started with a simple question between the two couples over some beers: why isn’t there a brewery in Lewis Center? And the answer quickly solidified. The idea was to make a brewery that was accessible to everyone—including those who don’t like beer. “Our opinion is that there’s probably a beer that everyone
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can like, but if they don’t like beer, maybe they just haven’t tried it yet,” Ryan explained. Looking at ORBC menu, the variety is there. If you’re into the hops of IPAs, the Arrowhead double-IPA is what you’re looking for. If you prefer a more robust and dark beer, the I Can’t Feel My Pants Russian Imperial Stout is smooth with that coffee-like flavor. ORBC also boasts its original style of beer as well with their Sofia IPA which has been dubbed the Ohiorrican IPA thanks to one of their brewmasters, Enrique Iglesias (not the singer), a brewer who moved to Columbus from Puerto Rico after being one of the first people to open a brewery in Puerto Rico. Ryan explained that the beer was not quite a west coast IPA which is hops forward, and it didn’t quite hit the New England hazy IPA standard, so they coined a new beer term altogether. After fighting for a dozen different locations, ORBC finally landed on a 9,000-square-foot warehouse with office space that
they transformed into a 10-barrel brewhouse with a taproom. The taproom is spacious and features many wooden fixtures reminiscent of something you might see at a Colorado ski lodge. In addition to being family-friendly, the taproom will have a large patio that will also be pup-friendly. While most breweries operate in the afternoon and evenings, ORBC is offering a little more by opening every day at 7 a.m. along with their partnership with the downtown coffeeshop, Roosevelt Coffeehouse, as well as the vegan bakery, Pattycake Bakery. Ryan explained that this is the other part of ORBC, creating a community. He said some people seem reluctant to get into craft beers and such because people might think it’s only for the “cool kids” in downtown Columbus. By bringing popular downtown establishments into Lewis Center, Ryan and his team are making these places more accessible. Now you can start and finish your day at one place. “We have some people that set up shop and are working in the taproom,” Ryan said. “They’ll come in in the morning, they sit there and work all day, and by the end of their workday, they have a beer. • 614columbus.com winter 2019
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Somewhere In Particular Brewing Company | 5055 Dierker Rd. “Where are you guys trying to go tonight?” “Oh, Somewhere In Particular.” “So, where do you want to go??” That should be a fun game to play with your friends before heading out. Though the name Somewhere In Particular keeps things vague, there’s a story behind it that puts it all into perspective. Patrick Sullivan, owner and brewmaster for SIP, owns another brewery named Nowhere In Particular, but now that Sullivan has set up shop and calls Columbus home, he is quite literally somewhere in particular. The taproom offers a wide selection of beers ranging from brown ales like the Sting Chamber to sours like the Cherry Berliner Weisse. If Newcastle has ruined you from drinking brown ales, give Sting Chamber a try. Owner Joe Casey explained that SIP wanted a menu that offered a little bit of everything like lagers and pilsners as a way to make sure they have something for everyone. But that isn’t to say they don’t have more unique styles of beer. SIP also has a rice-based IPA, the Kitsuni Okami. “It’s one of the first beers Pat made with Nowhere in Particular a few years back,” Casey said. “The rice helps lighten the body of the beer, and lets the hops come through. Also, with using some rice, you will have a lighter malt backbone. [It’s] something we like in our IPAs.” The brewery, taproom, and kitchen were part of an addition to the nearly 100-year old Henderson House. Inside SIP, the dining area is tight, but cozy, with an earthy aesthetic as the wall behind the bar features artistic metal tree branches with tufts of grass serving as leaves along with common house plants to compliment. The large windowed garage door also allows for natural lighting, and opens when the weather isn’t so cold it makes your hair hurt. You can also E-A-T and S-I-P. The menu is simple, but homey. Things like Beer Nuts, cheese balls, and pretzels take me back to a time that I was actually never around for, but it’s still nostalgic. The menu also offers more modern takes like beer-infused queso with candied jalapenos (excuse me while I wipe the drool from my face) and pita paninis served with kettle chips.
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Nocterra Brewing Company | 41 Depot St. Nocterra Brewing Company was first started by Bryan Duncan and Bruce Vivian who have built their experience through home brewing competitions. Nocterra’s name originates from a common love of the outdoors shared by the two brewers, and another business partner, James Knott. While Duncan was a white water rafter in West Virginia, Vivian took it to the next extreme with skydiving and backpacking.
“The name, Nocterra, is a play on words,” Duncan explained. “It’s from the land at night—being home brewers with kids, we could only brew at nighttime so we wanted to bring in that mantra. And then “terra”—from the land—it was paying homage to those outdoor activities and being outside.” As for the beer, Duncan said Nocterra is a luxury, since he and the team are both owners and brewers. They have the freedom to dabble into any style of brew they are interested in, whether that be a sour or a stout. And while the IPAs and porters will be out for the drinking, the brewers will also be working on a seperate sour project through a sour beer wood aging program. Between the extensive production process for sour beers and wanting to have variety, Duncan said they opted out of being an exclusively sour beer brewery. In the taproom, Duncan said there should be 10 beers on tap— including a white pine IPA. He said this goes back to Nocterra’s mantra of the outdoors and nature. “It’s one of our home brew recipes we’d made. We want to do a whole tree series, like a quarterly series, where we used an ingredient from a tree,” Duncan said. “Everyone thinks it’s pine so they think all these resin flavors, but it actually comes across way more citrus. White pine is a totally different flavor.” Nocterra’s brewery and taproom features 5,800 square feet of space in addition to a large outdoor area that’s a little over a quarter acre in size, which will be used as a beer garden and outdoor event venue. For its initial opening, the patio will feature seating as well as a firepit, but come spring, Duncan said there are plans to fully complete the outdoor space with a can release party. Nocterra will also be able to can and distribute its beer from day one, Duncan said. “We talked about it a lot and it’s like: where do you drink most of your beer at? And with us having families, most of your beer is consumed at home... If I can’t go out and buy it on the shelves, I more than likely wouldn’t have access to it, so for us it was a big thing that people would be able to get the beer, and as we expand we can get into larger stores.” •
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It’s difficult for us here at (614) to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. Use the hashtag #Eat614 on twitter or instagram to put your photos on our radar. 106
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