17 Summer 2018 • FREE
ROOFTOP PATIOS | BEER COCKTAILS | 'BURB BARS | CLIPPERS DINING GUIDE
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From the Editor
f I’m being completely honest, there are times where I feel I should be nowhere near a food magazine. In fact, had this job been presented to me when I first started as a writer nearly 20 years ago, I’d have to make my culinary resume brutally honest. Yes sir, I do drink Bud Select by the 18-pack. Do you have a moment to talk with me about the benefits of Domino’s thin crust? I’ve never made a habit of using Frenchsounding words to fluff up my cultural currency, but let’s just say my palate, naturally, is poubelle. You don’t have to look it up. Garbage. I eat garbage. If someone looks at a menu and says aloud, to no one in particular, “that sounds disgusting,” my internal response is, Oh, I’m totally getting that. True story: the first day I had my driver’s license, I didn’t dream of a pretty girl by my side, or being able to run off and find some teenage road trip adventure—I was absolutely giddy at the notion that I could go to any fast food restaurant whenever I wanted. It’s hard enough being cool in high school without openly asking an upperclassman to take you to Arby’s. It’s about the only thing country about me. When I say I grew up on a farm, and associate that with my eating habits, one probably leans towards me hunkered over sausage gravy and biscuits instead of eating potato chips in a lawn chair. I come from a long line of family members with trash palates. My grandpa ate a bowl of rainbow sherbet every day (for lunch), so as to quickly get back out to the barns. Yep, that’s my lineage: farmers, too busy farming, to grow us some good food. Which is also part of what leads me to the present, where having grown up in a land of beige meals, I look at local chefs like magicians. And while they continue to level up local cuisine, with an eye to measuring up with the major cities’ offerings, it’s during the summertime where the playing field levels a bit for folks like me, who recently realized that one of their favorite condiments is basically flavored dust. Food trucks. Floats. (Local!) light beer. Festivals in towns without post offices that fry enough perch to double their population for a weekend. Maybe this is why I’m the right person for this job. I put my Cheeto-stained cargo shorts on one leg at a time—just like you. I’m not a complete redneck these days—I enjoy herbal liqueur, pick up a weekly CSA, and am a big fan of tasting menus—but I also would ask that you stop putting fruit in my salad, and I very much am wondering if you’re gonna finish that. If you’re from Ohio, you know exactly what I’m talking about, and you likely come from a home that keeps TUMS in the same place you keep the hot sauce.
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CEO/Publisher Wayne T. Lewis Editor-in-Chief Travis Hoewischer Associate Editor Jeni Ruisch Contributing Writers Steve Croyle J.R. McMillan Mitch Hooper Aaron Wetli Linda Lee Baird Danny Hamen Kevin J. Elliott Jane Grote Abell Will Johnston Copy Editor Daniel Sponseller LEAD PHOTOGRAPHER Tommy Feisel Associate PHOTOGRAPHER Collins Laatsch Contributing Photographers Brian Kaiser Megan Leigh Barnard Allie Lehman Lead Designer Dustin Goebel Photo by A llie Lehman
If you’re not, then welcome, and let’s drink some goodold fashioned fun from the Midwest hose. Aaron Wetli can make sure you eat something different every inning an Huntington Park. Steve Croyle is making you low-test cocktails from craft beer. Matt Salts wants you to eat better beef jerky. Danny Hamen will guide you to the best place to drink drink high and lay low. Will Johnston, a bona fide, award-winning chef himself, just wants to share a pizza in a cup with you. Mitch Hooper is time-traveling to a simpler, sweeter place (Marion). Linda Baird insists that pizza heaven is in Delaware County. Me? I’ve never been to that Rax in Lancaster. Road trip? Cheers,
Travis Hoewischer, Editor-in-Chief
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graphic Designer Hugo Albornoz Jess Wallace Phoebe Davis Advertising director Meggin Weimerskirch Senior Account Executives Derek Landers Liza Worthington ACcOUNT EXECUTIVE Becky Hart Manager of audience development Stephanie McFarland VP of Sales/Marketing Lindsay Press
(614) Magazine 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215 Office: (614) 488-4400 Fax: (614) 488-4402 Email submissions to: editor@614columbus.com www.614columbus.com
Straight Up 16
Want a top-shelf cocktail with a low-key vibe? Columbus has more than a few options to dive into
Bridge to Brilliance 20
Long thought as just the chain brewery in town, Gordon Biersch has been the training tank for the city’s best brewers
Booze Beyond the ‘Belt 24
No longer just strip malls full of sports pubs, the surrounding suburbs are now home to a surprising amount of exciting bar concepts
The Dube Abides 32
With the future of beloved Blue Danube still cloudy, long-time patrons reflect on its cultural impact for Columbus
Dough Show 62
Tossing it up with world-renowned pizza spinner Ryan LaRose at his Leone’s shop
You’re Covered 78
Never know what to bring to a backyard party? Stock & Barrel staff have a few suggestions from around town
Five if By Sea 82
These dishes prove the theory you can’t get good seafood in Columbus is all wet
Notes from the Top 86
How Sonia Modes became the First Lady of Columbus piano
Back to the Root 36
Take a trip back in time by just traveling a half hour north to Marion’s Stewart’s Root Beer stand
Closer to God 42
Up on the rooftop, Columbus levels up their patio game
Truck Yeah! 50
Another summer, and another swing through options at the country’s largest food truck festival
App Hop 90
Lead photographer Tommy Feisel and his wife Meredith pack four date nights into one evening with A&R Creative Group
Strip Mall Surprise 100
Old is new out in Worthington, where Over the Counter combines classic diner service with contemporary cuisine
Fresh Tastes 108
Columbus never stops opening new bars and restaurants—here’s a rundown of what’s hopping this season
Cover Photo of Will, Theodore, and Rosey at BrewDog Franklinton by Tommy Feisel Special thanks this month to Emma Parker and Jacob Wooten
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contents
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C alendar 1
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By Sto ck & Ba rrel staff
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7.13-14
7.14-15
7.23-28
Ohio Wine Festival
Bikepacking & Brews
Location: North Market Time: 5 p.m.-9 p.m., 1 p.m.-9
Location: Four String
Restaurant Week Columbus
Columbus Summer Beerfest
Location: Varies Time: Varies Admission: $15-$35 Web: eat614.com
Location: Express Live! Time: 1 p.m. - 11 p.m. Admission: $45 Web: columbusbeerfest.com
When Restaurant Week kicks back up here in the capital city, you know it’s your chance to chow down on some boujee bites without going broke in the process. Each installment brings in a seemingly endless amount of options to select from, offering prix fixe deals on three-course meals—but we don’t have to tell you that. You’ve been having “spontaneous” date nights every time Restaurant Week rolls into town. Smart thinking on your end. With the likes of Lemongrass to Hyde Park hooking us up with delicious bites for prices that won’t go any higher than $35, we’re thinking about having one of those “spontaneous” date nights at the end of July, too.
With more than 130 different breweries coming to town and live music performed at Express Live!, the only problem you’ll face at Summer Beerfest 2018 is trying to do it all in one day. You’ll have the chance to taste beers from right here in Columbus, as well as beers from across the country, so we recommend taking this year’s Beerfest as a challenge to taste the world. Start off simple with a local Ohio beer, take your tipsy ass to a different state for a new brew, and before you know it, you’ll be an international boozy superstar who definitely knows the difference between a Dubbel and a Tripel. Or, you’ll end up drunk— which is just as good.
Brewing Company
p.m.
Time: 10 a.m. Admission: $10
Columbus and Ohio’s local craft beer scene is blowing up at the moment, but don’t you dare forget about the local wine scene! The Ohio Wine Festival is bringing 20 different Ohio wineries to the heart of Ohio for a twoday festival in honor of the great vino. Your $25 ticket will get you inside the event for both days, a souvenir glass, and a $5 voucher to a North Market vendor for the future. There is a no sharing rule at the festival, but who in their right minds would want to share their wine with anyone?! It doesn’t take too many glasses of wine to catch a buzz, so make sure you bring a DD with you. Don’t worry about your DD’s ticket either, they are free to get in.
Just think for a second: when was the last time you went out and enjoyed nature? I’m not talking, “Well, I mowed the lawn last week” nature adventures, I’m talking an overnight excursion fueled by the great outdoors … and beer, of course. If you think you are a true nature boy or girl (not to be confused with The Nature Boy, Ric Flair), then Four String and Trek are ready to put your claims to the test. You’ll start your 55-mile journey to John Bryan State Park at Four String’s taproom, followed by camping overnight at the park, and making that long biking journey back home the next day. Just make sure you bring the proper camping equipment because beyond food and a celebratory beverage afterwards at Four String, it’s up to you to last the night.
Admission: $25 Web: northmarket.com
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8.11
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6
8.14
8.17-18
Taste The Future
Columbus Food Truck Festival
Location: 550 E. Spring St. Time: 6 p.m.-9 p.m. Admission: $100 Web: tastethefuture.com Currently, the culinary world in Columbus sits in good hands. But who will be the next generation of chefs cooking your favorite foods? You just might meet one at the Taste The Future event hosted by Columbus State Community College. This event will bring in more than 50 different Ohio restaurants, caterers, and clubs dedicated to raising funds for students and their success at CSCC. Just like any other good festival, you’ll be able to see many artists both local and non-local, enjoy live entertainment throughout the night, and you’ll get a glimpse at the behind-the-scenes magic that some of the most iconic chefs have to offer.
Location: Bicentennial Park and Scioto Mile
Time: 11 a.m. Admission: Free Web: columbusfoodtruckfest.com The Columbus Food Truck Festival is back and its lineup of meals on wheels has such a wide variety, even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find something to please their particular palate. Last year’s installment brought the city 54 different food trucks to the Scioto Mile and you can expect that number to be just as high this year. Of course, you can always grab a bite at your favorite trucks, but how many times do you get the chance to have all these fantastic food trucks in a centralized location? Spread your wings and fly, Columbusites, try something new! Toss in some live entertainment and soaking up the sun near the Scioto Mile, and this free-to-get-in event is a must-do for anyone looking for a cheap and relaxing weekend in the Bus.
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It’s important to note that a great beer is already a perfectly balanced drink so there’s really no need to meddle with it. Moreover, if you decide to take a great beer and mix up a summer cocktail, you’d better respect the beer and maintain that balance. Nonetheless, there are several benefits to eschewing the hard stuff, and using beer as a base for light and refreshing summer cocktails. So, when the Stock & Barrel team decided to undertake the challenge, we hit up our friends at Sideswipe Brewing to try out some mixology on their well-crafted offerings.
The Neighborhood Kolsch For our first trick, we decided to roll with a twist on a strawberry mojito. Fresh strawberries were muddled with mint and pinches of salt and sugar. Why salt? Because salt activates receptors on your tongue that unlock the sweetness of the fruit. Sugar is a traditional addition to the muddle, and it softens the impact of the mint. Before muddling, the roughly chopped berries filled about a third of a standard shaker pint glass. After muddling the mashed berries and sprig of mint we topped off with enough ginger ale to fill the glass about a third of the way, dropped in two big ice cubes and then we topped it off with a kolsch (we used Oh County). The less assertive hop profile allows the sweetness of the berries to come through, and doesn’t clash with the subtle hint of freshlypicked mint. The foamy head takes on a pinkish hue, which contributes to a gorgeous drink. Add a strawberry garnish.
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Beer Belly Knee
Bloody Knuckles
Shand Dunk
From here, we keep things simple. Strawberries and mint are traded for peaches and sage. The same blend of salt and sugar get added to the muddle, and ginger ale is once again deployed. The store brand version is milder, made with pure cane sugar. It’s sweet, with just a hint of ginger. It’s not a good idea to go with an astringent ginger beer in this application, since the goal is to help extract and distribute the fruit flavor and tie everything together. We eschewed the kolsch, for the lighter, Sexy Weekend, a delicious “American Table Beer,” offered in cans, that has an ABV of just 3.5 percent. In this Peach Bellini-inspired drink, you’re diluting the alcohol to something in the 2 percent range. The ice cubes are optional—if your fruit isn’t cold you don’t want the whole drink at room temp. You don’t want to crowd the glass with too much ice, however.
Next up is the most common beer cocktail you will find. For this one, we took the Fisticuffs IPA, also in cans, and blended it with your basic bloody mary mix. Ours is tomato juice, a half teaspoon of horseradish, a few splashes of Worcestershire, and enough Sriracha to make it bite back. Again, the mixer fills about a third of the glass, and the beer does the rest. Pour carefully, however: in the previous drinks the soda finds the nucleation points for the CO2, so the beer pours smooth. It will foam up a bit once the CO2 finds the fruit, but it’s delayed and diminished greatly. The beer will definitely foam up in the tomato juice, so pour a little, mix it up, and pour a little more. Take your time filling the glass. Ice is again optional. If the tomato juice is cold, why bother? Take the time to rim the glass. Lime juice and cajun seasoning are awesome. This drink is delicious. It’s like a sparkling bloody mary. The hops from the IPA mingle wonderfully with the rich flavors from the mix.
After this, we kept it simple with a shandy. One of the most popular summer beers is the Summer Shandy from Leinenkugel's and it’s fine, but it’s so much better to make your own. Sideswipe has a hoppy wheat beer called Pixelated Sun, which is also available in cans. It’s got a very refreshing citrus-like bite. So, we took a nice, all natural pulpfree lemonade, added a crushed basil leaf, and poured in some Pixelated Sun. It’s a 50/50 mix, and even though beer floats over the lemonade making for a nice Instagram post, you really need to mix this before drinking. It’s fantastic. Embarrassingly easy and delicious.
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Heckuva Job, Brownie Finally, a drink that may surprise you. We put four big ice cubes in a pint glass and added about two ounces of cold-brew coffee. Sideswipe actually has some on nitro from Back Room Roasters, so we used that. Then we added about four ounces of Mastermind Imperial Stout, leaving a little under an inch of headspace at the top of the glass. Then comes the heavy cream. Just a little, slowly drizzled around the sides of the glass so it would cascade into the beer and the coffee. The resultant beverage is decadent—cold, and creamy, and sweet and bitter. Definitely a desert beverage, that would have been great with tiramisu, fresh baked brownies, or some lava cake. •
Straight Up Laidback cocktail bars juxtapose class with character By Da n n y Ha men • Photos by B rian Kaiser
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once was in love with a girl who had bright pink hair and a taste for craft cocktails. She was 4’11,” wore platform combat boots, and swore like a Tarantino character. The problem was that it was 2008, and anywhere we went for a French Martini or a Kir Royale, the mixologists of bougie cocktail bar X would stare in subtle dismay at my punk rock paramour, rolling their eyes as they joggled their stainless steel cocktail shakers. But things have changed in the past decade— you don’t have to wear a bowtie anymore if you want a top shelf drink made with care and affection. While craft beer has become an obvious mainstay in Columbus culture, craft cocktails are not far behind, popping up in just about any place that has a liquor license. It seems almost paradoxical to go to a hole-in-the-wall for a $12 dollar, well-made drink, but in a way, it has permeated the culture and been made accessible to any ol’ social deviant who desires intricate, inventive cocktails without the price tag of snooty atmosphere. This brings us to The Bottle Shop: a living, breathing juxtaposition—a dimly lit, nonpretentious haunt whose rotating list of lovingly crafted cocktails have generated a prodigious reputation around town. Opened by husband and wife duo German Vazquez and Barbara Reynolds in 2016, it has become an important fixture of the ever-evolving Victorian Village. The dynamic of TBS almost represents the delicate balance of the perfect cocktail: one part cocktail and craft beer bar, one part carryout, and, appropriately enough, one part well-stocked bottle shop, with a wide selection of bottled beers and fine wines. “The feedback I get most often from our guests is that they feel more comfortable here than in other cocktail bars,” said Reynolds. “I think we come across more relaxed and casual. We use a lot of esoteric ingredients, but our staff is really good at explaining flavor profiles without making people feel stupid.” In my opinion, bars are supposed to be like womblike asylums, a separation from the bleakness of the real world. Walking into TBS is like teleporting into your eccentric auntie’s rumpus room—a plethora of •
“I think we come across more relaxed and casual. We use a lot of esoteric ingredients, but our staff is really good at explaining flavor profiles without making people feel stupid.”
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mismatched antique furniture, zigzagging Christmas lights, The Bottle Shop wood-paneled walls adorned 237 King Ave. with a tiny gallery of framed religious iconography, and an assortment of thrifted novelty trinkets purposefully scattered, creating an ambiance akin to an antique mall in Nowhere, Ohio. The owners even curate unusual, dated, campy, and often psychedelic short films that are projected onto the wall at all times; while mesmerizing in their own right, they mesh exceedingly well with the endless mix of alternative postrock oozing out of the speakers. “The Bottle Shop is a mash-up of elements from many of my favorite places around the world, including Bacchanal in New Orleans, Lagniappe House in Miami, and Le Comptoir Generale in Paris, among others,” said Reynolds. “German and I both really liked the idea of a bodega set-up, with both on- and off-premise sales, as well as a comfy, living-room aesthetic.” Don’t worry—if the idea of sequestering yourself up in cozy dive on a sunny afternoon sounds downright absurd, The Bottle Shop boasts a larger-than-average patio, complete with a permanently-stationed re-purposed taco truck. (I say re-purposed, since the wrap of the wagon broadcasts Mediterranean cuisine. To account for this confusion, they simply plastered a sign on the side advertising Mexican food. Again: this is what charm is). But what shines most prominently about The Bottle Shop is, of course, their drinks. A highly sippable cocktail that you can find on their current menu is the salaciously named Naked & Shameless. Riffing a classic with a clear and clever spin is the MO at The Bottle Shop, and it's displayed at its best in this drink. Mixing fresh lime juice, Mezcal (imagine tequila’s cooler, richer, more interesting older cousin), Yellow Chartreuse, and Ancho Reyes Verde. The last two ingredients I will leave for the bartenders at The Bottle Shop to explain, but suffice to say they are both unique and undoubtedly rarefied liquors. These ingredients are shaken, strained into a frosty cocktail coupe, and delicately garnished with a tiny roasted chili floating on a dehydrated lime wheel, resulting in a drink as unique in its appearance. It's smoky and savory while still possessing sweetness, and vibrant vegetal flavors, bring a welcoming funky pepperiness. Reynolds may go out of her way to make sure her customers don’t feel stupid—but that doesn’t prohibit her from having a slight agenda. “I’m always trying to trick people into drinking sherry so they realize it’s awesome,” she laughed, “so I’m pretty excited about a cocktail I’m working on with Hendrick’s gin, blackberry-infused fino sherry, Dolin Genepy des Alpes and lemon. It doesn’t have a name yet, but it’s bright pink and delicious!” (It will be on their new summer menu after June 25). If you haven’t ever stopped by, definitely add it to your summer to-do-list, and you couldn’t hope for more perfect timing with their seasonal speciality menu about to change over by the end of June. And yeah, bring your weirdo friends—no one will mind. • 18
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Oddfellows by Luke Sislowski
Libations, Laidback
More and more places are upping their cocktail game without having to turn the elegance up to 11. Here’s a few more lowkey spots to sip: The Light of Seven Matchsticks 5601 N High St. Yes, we know what that name sounds like. But it’s shockingly lacking pretense. This dimly lit, basement speakeasy opened last year below Natalie’s Coal-Fired Pizza in Worthington, boasting a wide variety of cleverly named, inventive cocktails. It may be a bit of a word salad, but Exit Through the Blue Light’s two types of aged gin, Green Chartreuse liqueur, and Batavia Arrack makes for a bold, flavorful, and contemporary take on the use of its timeless ingredients. Two Truths 1205 N High St. If the ending of the Prohibition era was supposed to kill off speakeasies, Two Truths either didn’t get the memo, or is just too focused cranking out delicious cocktails in a comfortable setting. Instead of cramming a television on every blank space on the wall, Two Truths has no televisions and offers patrons shelves with books. And what’s a speakeasy without some great background tunes to complement that retro vibe? Oddfellows Liquor Bar 1038 N High St. Drinking alcoholic slushies next to a late night pizza shack certainly lives up to its “modern dive bar” moniker, but Oddfellows occupies their own space in the cocktail space with their Sunday night “Anti-Cocktail Cocktail Club” pop-up. Watershed wizard Alex Chein and his cohorts take over behind the bar, slinging drinks from a simple list of four cocktails you can sign up for. No tinkly jazz in this joint—DJ Topher is blasting old-school hip-hop loud enough to rattle all those coupe glasses. More “Round the Way Girl” than “Girl from Ipanema. “ 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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By Ste v e C r oy l E P HOTOS BY TOMMY FEI S EL
Back before Columbus craft beer exploded, Gordon Biersch was the city’s test tank for a new era of brewers
G
ordon Biersch is unfairly overlooked in most craft beer discussions. This is largely because the “chain” concept flies in the face of craft beer. The ideal craft brewer is fiercely independent, carefully brewing beers that they can take pride in while satisfying the demands of a thirsty public. In a lot of ways, a truly outstanding craft brewer 20
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has to be a counterintuitive businessperson. Where most businesses, like Gordon Biersch, are relentlessly driven by the goal of increasing revenue without shrinking net margins, a craft brewer will squeeze that margin in hopes of bringing forth a beer that truly stands out in a crowded market space. It’s time for GB to get its due.
“I brewed four beers, and only four beers. Red, Yellow, Brown and Seasonal.” There was a time when Gordon Biersch was exciting. That would be when it first opened in the sparkling new Arena District. Back in 2001, Barley’s and Barley’s Smokehouse were the only brewpubs in town. Columbus Brewing Company was there, but the quality of the product was suffering and there was always a strange, if not strained relationship between the brewery and the eponymous, yet technically unaffiliated, restaurant. Elevator was in the market, but brewing out of Marysville. They purchased the old Clock restaurant, providing a local suds-slinging stronghold in March of 2000. If we’re being honest, Gordon Biersch brought precision to Columbus. Barley’s and the Smokehouse brewed small batches and offered a wide variety of beers, many of which were brewed but once. GB was all about those German lagers. The selection didn’t change, so things had to be consistent. This, of course was in the early days of craft brewing and if you were taking bets on which brewing model would be most successful, you would have bet on lagers, simply because it’s not as hard to convert people to them. Gordon Biersch hired a highly qualified brewer to run the show here in Columbus: Eric Bean. Yes, the very same Eric Bean who presides over Columbus Brewing Company. The very same Columbus Brewing Company that was bobbing helplessly in the doldrums of mediocrity when Gordon Biersch first opened. Bean is a super geek who admits to reading science
books for fun. After completing undergraduate work in Biological Anthropology, he enrolled in the Masters of Brewing Science Program at UC Davis. After that he worked at several different breweries in the Northwest and Cleveland before taking the job at Gordon Biersch in Columbus. Despite his pedigree, Bean went through a rigorous training program prior to starting work here in town. He jokes about wondering if he’s even allowed in the building these days, but after reintroducing himself (with his trucker hat and long beard, Bean looks more like someone slinging merch from the back of a station wagon outside a Slayer show) to a regional manager who happened to be around during his tenure, it’s clear that he’s held in high esteem. Bean directed the buildout of the brewhouse, and the efficiency of the layout seems universally appreciated by his successors. Even Matt Crema, the fifth and current brewer, seems to notice an intuitive flow to the process. “I brewed four beers, and only four beers,” Bean joked. “Red, Yellow, Brown and Seasonal.” Early on, Gordon Biersch did look for a certain visual aesthetic in their beers, as a lot of beer drinkers, particularly those who hadn’t already been converted to craft, had a tendency to let color be their guide. Gordon Biersch probably missed an opportunity to provide a little more education, and explain that the color of a beer actually doesn’t mean that much in terms of flavor, but they were not trying to avoid the cerebral approach most craft brewers had to take in their tap rooms in order to overcome trepidation. • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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Brew U
Plenty of brewers cut their craft beer teeth in the tanks at Gordon Biersch Brewing Company:
Dan Griffin
Keith Jackson
(Outerbelt Brewing Company)
(Combustion Brewing)
Matt Crema Bean was integral in helping Gordon Biersch work out some issues with their early recipes. They had a large production facility out West, and the recipes were all formulated on that system. The brewers at the individual facilities were responsible for brewing those same beers to the quality assurance standards prescribed at the corporate brewery. This was not a matter of the local brewers cranking out beer from extracts. Bean had to run the brewhouse as if it was his own, which meant ordering grain, hops, and yeast, and brewing from scratch. “We just couldn’t hit those numbers,” he said of the corporate standards. “So we had to adjust the recipes for the smaller systems.” Beer is a tricky business. If you’re trying to bake cookies, and you need to increase or decrease the volume, it’s simple math. Beer math tends to act like it’s drunk. If you’re brewing 20 barrels of beer 22
Eric Bean
(Gordon Biersch, current)
(Columbus Brewing Company)
as opposed to 40, you don’t simply divide by two. That’s the challenge Bean and some other brewers faced, but even when they dialed those recipes in, meeting those standards from corporate kept him up at night. “Quality control was a big deal for them, but I got it. They had to have consistency across the brand.” After a few years, Bean began formulating a business plan to open a brew pub. Then an opportunity to take over Columbus Brewing Company presented itself and the rest is history. He spent most of 2005 working at both places, trying to get CBC’s house in order. Chris Altmont, a friend of Eric’s from Cleveland, took over as the GB head brewer when he left. Chris later left GB and moved back to the Cleveland Area as Chief of Brewing Operations for Fatheads.
He studied geology at Ohio University and had a good job, but it was in an office and Jackson had more of a field position in mind when he took that career path. He decided he wanted to be a brewer. “I just kept bothering Eric, and eventually he hired me,” Keith said of his first job at Columbus Brewing Company. Jackson worked his way up the ranks at CBC, and when Bean heard that Gordon Biersch was looking for another brewer, he told him to go for it. “He told me it was great opportunity to move forward in this business,” Jackson said. By the time Jackson showed up at GB in 2012, the four-week training program had been reduced to shadowing Altmont for a couple weeks—and now, he had the ability to brew his own beers. But there was another stark difference in 2012, too: GB realized that it wasn’t a major player in the craft beer market. People just weren’t connecting with them, despite a lot of effort on the part of GB to be involved.
Keith Jackson was the one who took over for Altmont.
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So, something shifted. And in the years since, GB has become much more of an assist man in the local scene than just competition. They participate in local craft beer events, and their brewers become very engaged in the local craft beer scenes. Gordon Biersch will help other brewers if they’re short on yeast or specialty grains. They are not insular, but there’s just a perception that tends to hold them back. Crema, the current GB Brewer in Columbus, thinks that part of it is that GB is still afraid to embrace certain modern craft beer traditions, like giving beers off-the-wall names. “I’d love to give my IPA a name that connects locally, but my boss just wants me to call it an IPA,” he explained. Jackson found it difficult to be as creative as he would have liked because there were strict budget limitations with regard to acquiring certain ingredients, but he admits that playing by those rules helped him grow as a brewer.
“You’re responsible for that brewhouse,” he said. “If you run out of beer, or you don’t sell a beer, it’s on you.” The other brewers agree. It’s a challenge, especially in Columbus. Crema faced a dilemma with the Blue Jackets making the playoffs this year. How many people would come in each night? Moreover, how deep were the Jackets going? It takes several weeks to brew a beer, so if you’re not thinking about this well in advance, you’re screwed. Griffin, who took over the brewery after Jackson left in 2016 mentioned that there are nights where you can watch the serving tanks drain almost as if there was a leak. Jackson’s experience at GB put opening a brewery on the radar. Prior to that he’d never really given it a lot of thought, but having to manage all of the aspects of running a brewer at GB made it a realistic possibility. Things came together in 2016, and he left in July of that year to open Combustion in Pickerington. “That was not my plan at first, but it’s really working out,” he said. Griffin’s opportunity couldn’t have been more perfectly timed. He had the feeling he’d worn out his welcome at Long Trail, after interviewing for a job at Boston Beer Company. GB offered a good salary, benefits, and an opportunity to move back home. He earned a degree in product design and development at Eastern Michigan University, and found himself bored as hell working at Honda. So, he went to Heriot Watt University in Scotland and earned his Masters of Brewing Science. Like Eric, he’s also a third degree science geek, and when the two of them talk shop, the conversation quickly rises above most people’s ability to comprehend it. Griffin didn’t really plan on opening a brewery either, but a family friend pitched him an idea and he left Gordon Biersch earlier this year to start work on Outerbelt Brewing Company,
which should open in the Lancaster area before the end of the year. Crema grew up in the Chicago area, and jumped at the opportunity to take over as the brewer at the Columbus location. It seemed like a smart career move, but Matt’s quickly realized that Columbus is probably going to be home for a long time. “I really love this city,” he said. “It’s so accessible.” Matt started out as a paramedic, and decided after a few years he wanted to be a brewer. He took a job at Rock Bottom, who acquired GB a few years ago. He started waiting tables and begging to get some time in the brewery. “I took a few classes at Seibel Institute in Chicago,” he said. “But it was pretty basic, nothing like the detail these guys went into.” As his predecessors sample his beers it’s clear that Matt’s learned the ropes, and has a handle on how to run the brewery. The beers are on point, but he’s the newbie here, and when these other guys talk, he’s content to drink it all in. “This is amazing,” he said. “These guys know so much, it’s just awesome to sit back and listen.” Each one of these brewers has his own story, and a different background. They all share a passion for brewing, and it’s obvious that they all have an appreciation for Gordon Biersch and how their experience here at this now venerable brewhouse helped them become better brewers and develop a stronger understanding for the business. It wasn’t just a stepping stone on a resume, but a bridge to their futures. It’s strange that a brewery that can’t seem to emerge from the shadows of the growing craft beer industry has had such a powerful impact on it. • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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Booze Beyond the ‘Belt By Ste v e C r oy l e • P HOTOS BY BRI AN KAISER
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Three suburban bars upgrading the strip mall set
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f you want to gauge the influence Columbus has over the region’s culture, you need look no further than those little communities that lie at the far reaches of our metropolitan area. It wasn’t long ago that Daily Show spoofed us epically by having all their correspondents report to Jon Stewart from an Applebee’s, and while many of the strip malls just off the outerbelt still have that cookiecutter feel, you’ll be pleased to know that once you get away from the expensive rents of those corporately owned developments, people are opting for the same kinds of places all us hip city slickers adore.
Mudflats Bar and Grill popped up in the sleepy little town of Galena in 2006. It’s named for the muddy flats that appear along the shores of Hoover Reservoir in the late summer when Columbus is watering its lawns as though green grass is a cash crop. Galena is surrounded by expensive houses. People looking for open space pay a premium for property in this suburb of a suburb. Mudflats has changed owners since Jane and Jeff White first opened it (now the operators of Clintonville’s BLunch), but the commitment to good food hasn’t changed. Current owner Martin Hynes doesn’t like the word “gastropub”, and sees Mudflats as a restaurant with great food and a thoughtful selection of beer with an emphasis on local products. This provides people out in the sticks with an experience not unlike something they’d enjoy in the Short North, except the parking is easier and the outdoor seating actually feels outdoorsy. The menu changes periodically, and fresh local ingredients are used when they are in season. Whether you’re a local who hasn’t tried the place, or a road tripper wondering if they’ve got worthwhile grub, Mudflats is a great destination. •
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Ashley, Ohio is a tiny little town off of Route 42 just outside of Delaware. You’d expect domestic beers, and fried bologna sandwiches to be the headliners at Rusted Nail Tavern. Miles Drake opened the place back in 2016 because he thought the area was going to grow, and a pub with good food and drinks would be in demand. There’s a lot of thought in the simple menu. Craft beers are carefully considered, and there’s a nice selection of bourbon available for those who enjoy that sort of thing. Rusted Nail serves as a utility player of sorts, offering live music and plenty of flat screens for sports, but it all seems to fit into place. So far, business is good, and travelers are always welcome.
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Plain City used to be home to one of those dive bars where people would all stop and stare when a stranger walked in. Last year long time Plain City resident Jason Shumway changed that when he bought the old dive and breathed some new life into the old village with Tavern 161. The bar opens at 3 p.m. each day, with the kitchen cranking out Southern style food courtesy of Sweet T’s by 4. Live music is a big deal here, and so is a fun, laid back atmosphere. People in Plain City wanted a nice local bar they could be proud of, and Jason Shumway brought it all together. This is a bar you’d be happy to see on Fourth Street, but it’s on Route 161 outside of Dublin. You should be jealous.
These places aren’t just sitting on their hands waiting for people who live downtown to find them, they’re making bank right there in those allegedly unhip towns. Just because people live in the boonies doesn’t mean they don’t have taste, and now we’re starting to see some bold restaurateurs build businesses around it. •
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Local Canteen
How to advance and evolve with the changing Short North By Travis Hoew i s c her Photos by Me g a n L i eg h Bar n a r d
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hat would you call Da Levee and Justin Boehme? Old-School New Short North? Yeah that sounds about right. The Louisiana-born Iraq vet brought his native cuisine and a laid back vibe to his little spot behind Axis, and was most certainly of the young, independent businesspeople that came to characterize the second wave of the neighborhood. He knew his customers, and they knew him. A few months ago, unable to recognize the neighborhood from eight years earlier—or two for that matter—he made a decision: It’s time for us to change, too. With more folks in the entertainment district wanting to wet their beak than try on a new culinary adventure, ever the Army guy, he adapted on the fly, turning the former Cajun restaurant into a sleek, slim pool hall, named after his grandfather, a veteran too. Today, Eugene’s Canteen is thriving, and Boehme is embracing new customers— and new possibilities in the Short North.
You and your grandfather are both veterans. Can you tell us about the branches of military you were in, and your jobs? We were both Army. Grandpa was in the infantry and carried a bazooka. He actually enlisted under his older brothers name because he was too young. He never talked to anyone, not even Grandma, about his experience. The one fact I know is he was in the Battle of the Bulge and him and only two other soldiers in his company came back alive. He passed away before I joined the military, so we never got to swap war stories. My job was a 31U, radio operator/maintainer. My main mission during my deployment was operating the TOC, coordinating patient • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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transport to the clinic. Halfway into my deployment I was assigned to travel base to base in Iraq to upgrade HUMVEE seat belts. It was quite the experience to tour the country. Tell us about The Backdoor. The Backdoor is a pop up kitchen located inside of Eugene’s Canteen. We schedule local chefs to come in and feature their food and have a High Street restaurant for a day. It also gives me a opportunity to do my own pop-ups and experiment with new dishes for my catering company and future restaurants. This location used to be Da Levee. What was the catalyst for changing your business. There were two factors that sparked my interest in the change. The first is for the past year I had planned to be a part of a new concept here in the Short North serving cajun that is a bar and has several food concepts, similar to a food court. After a year of planning and a verbal agreement I was notified by a text message that I was no longer a vendor on the day they started announcing their vendors. The second factor is that my catering company is really taking off and wanted to make my life a bit easier. I have kicked my own ass these past eight years running multiple restaurants. I wanted to create a space I could just kick it and chill. You transitioned from a restaurant featuring cajun food, to a bar inspired by your grandpa. Is it more personal now? Can you compare and contrast them a little bit for us? Opening a new business to me is like having a child. That is also being said from a guy with no kids. Da Levee will always be my first child and hold a special place in my heart. I have been in the cajun business for 15 years. nine of which with my mentor Joe Vuskovich and eight and counting on my own. Eugene’s Canteen is more personal due to the fact that I got to work side by side with my wife. She is an amazing designer and really did 30
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a number on this one. She handled all the design and branding and I did my best to build it. It is nice to look at every detail of the build out and remember every Lowe’s trip and argument that came with. Eugene’s is my happy place. As a child my sister and I would create a fake grocery store in my grandparents attic and we called it “Gene’s Place.” Once I opened Da Levee I promised my sister one day I would open a “Gene’s Place,” Eugene’s Canteen is my version of that. This bar has really been in the works for 30 years. We’ve got to talk about construction if we’re talking to a Short North business owner... I think the construction in the Short North is all for the better. I can’t say I agree with the destruction of certain buildings or approve of certain architectural decisions, but overall I think its a positive change. I can’t wait for my new sidewalk! So, your future is in the Short North? I am evolving with the scene and keeping my business relevant. I am also a huge fan of change. I was ready to release some creativity and build something I hope the neighborhood appreciates. To add to it, running restaurants is a challenging business. Running a bar feels like a vacation, comparatively. Less overhead, less stress, better hours. I don’t see myself leaving anytime soon. I was recently offered a disgusting amount of money to buy my business, but I’m not ready yet. I want to see what Eugene’s grows into. •
For those missing Da Levee, you can still pop in to their Gahanna location, or get a taste of Rouxpert’s, Boehme’s catering company, which still serves out of the Backdoor every Friday and Saturday night. Eugene’s Canteen is open 3 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday at 765 N High St. 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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The Dube Abides Reflecting on the strange transition of a beloved landmark
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By J.R . M c M i l l a n • P H otos by B r i a n Ka i s e r
hen the beloved Blue Danube abruptly announced they were closing after 78 years, the news nearly broke hearts and local Facebook feeds. But early reports of their eminent demise were perhaps a bit premature. Yes, the most recent operator Bob Swaim had planned to hold on into June. And the Margetis family, which has actually owned the building for decades while retaining rights to the name, quietly revealed plans to remodel and reopen the restaurant in the coming months. No one has offered much in the way of details or assurances, not wanting to become the victim or villain in this story. And neither narrative would likely allay fears about possibly losing yet another Columbus culinary landmark to a pretentious gastropub or gaudy watering hole with no soul. Rather than dwell on what we don’t know, let’s celebrate what we do know about the Dube, hoping that a people’s history might sway both sides into preserving part of what makes The Blue Danube unique, instead of letting a cloudy and contentious transition turn into an excuse to sabotage or abandon what folks love most.
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Gaye Spetka’s story stretches back to the early years, when her parents first got together following WWII. “It was more posh back then when my parents had their first date there. My father went to OSU after the war, and my mother was shocked when he ordered a beer,” she laughed. Spetka became a regular herself in the ‘70s. She was thankful for the chance to pass on the legacy before it may be lost. “It was a treat to take my niece and her now husband there to share the story of how her grandparents met. But so much of what I remember of the campus area isn’t the same; it’s ticky-tacky steel and glass structures and asphalt parking lots.” Colin Dearth is among four generations of faithful patrons, marking family milestones at the Dube for decades. “My grandfather was an Army medic who came to Ohio State and met my grandmother. My parents were both juniors at OSU in the ’60s when I was born and lived right around the corner,” he recalled. Dearth grew up to serve in the 82nd Airborne and •
Special Forces, but didn’t forget simpler times as a teenager spent scarfing down fries smothered in chicken gravy with friends. “I’d come home and spend 20 minutes going over the menu, but still ordered the steak and eggs every time for like 10 years. And PBR pints for a buck-fifty? They may as well have filled up my trunk.” Now a father of three, he orders the vegetarian chef’s salad and hasn’t had a beer in years. “I’ve celebrated too many birthdays there to count. All of my daughters sat in highchairs at the Dube.” Natalie Thomson was a waitress there in the ’80s, when the Margetis family previously ran the place. “My father played saxophone and we’d walk from Dick’s Den down to the Dube for a bite to eat afterward. I started working there when I was 17. Some nights, I was the only waitress working [as we got] closer to close,” she revealed. An anachronism in the age of the smartphone, Thomson also remembers when tenants from the adjacent apartments used the payphone as their personal phone number, and waitresses would run next door to let folks know when they had a call. The experience was a far cry from her eventual occupation as a chef, though formative and unforgettable. “I’ve worked in fine dining restaurants, but I still love a greasy spoon.” Rico Sullivan also discovered the Dube in the ’80s as a teen, when he and his brother used to sell hot dogs during game days at OSU. “After the game, we’d all go to the video arcade, then The Blue Danube and try to act all hip like the college students we saw there. I fell in love with the fish platter back then,” he recalled. “We loved the atmosphere of the place.” Sullivan went on to teach martial arts and took his students there as well. His wife is originally from Pakistan and still considers it her first true taste of America. “My wife and I eat there and always get nostalgic about our first date. It was heartbreaking to find out they are closing. I have a lot of great memories invested in The Blue Danube.” 34
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Dawn Chapman used to sneak into bars and clubs with her fake ID, but actually came to the Dube when she wanted to be alone. “Sometimes, you just need to escape everyone. I was very shy, so I’d go there to write, smoke cigarettes, and drink coffee. It’s also the first place I ever had a gyro,” she recalled. But it proved difficult to be alone for long at The Blue Danube, forging friendships that endure to this day — and others just for the night. “I always hoped to paint a ceiling tile. ‘Paint a tile and we’ll add it to the pile,’ they said, but I never got around to it. I used to make jewelry, and a few of my designs were inspired by certain ceiling tiles. Tile 32 is still my favorite.” Mike Cavender found something strangely familiar at The Blue Danube since moving to Columbus in the late ’90s. “There are so many places where we used to go that are gone now. Places like North Campus Video and the Dube weren’t homogenized and still seemed a little rougher around the edges. That’s how I felt back then—rougher around the edges,” he explained. Though a “committed carnivore,” Cavender admitted their black bean burger was his first, and a pleasant surprise. His wife was already familiar with the Dube, particularly its infamous jukebox, when they met. But he’d long considered it a litmus test for whether a date was the right fit. “If you go there on a first date and are both into that kind of place, it’s probably going to work out.” Despite the brisk bump in business, as the days slipped toward the end of this chapter and the beginning of the next, the Dube’s most recent incarnation just couldn’t hold on any longer. In fact, the Friday after the initial announcement, they had to close early because the kitchen ran out of food and had to restock—perhaps a hint in hindsight foreshadowing the final week. As for the iconic neon inside and out, that Grilled Cheese and Dom Pérignon special, and the fate of those famous ceiling tiles, no one seems to know for sure what will stay or go. When asked prior to the unexpected last call, a bartender simply replied, “Bob’s got a lot on his plate.” • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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You don’t need a time machine to experience a By M i tc h H o o p e r • P H otos by B r i a n Ka i s e r classic Midwest summer—you just have goto to Marion You don’t need a time to machine experience a classic Midwest summer—you just have to go to Marion
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hen our editor called me into his office to start brainstorming for this issue of Stock & Barrel, the idea of nostalgia surrounded the word “summertime.” For me, summertime was spent just about 45 minutes north on 23 in Marion, Ohio. You’ve probably heard of us for a mix of things: popcorn and festivals dedicated to just that (unique, fun, and tasty!), Warren G. Harding (controversial, but a good time!), and the Marion Power Shovel Company (I’m too young to even know what this actually was!) I did all the normal kid summertime things: I played baseball on one of the four different teams offered from the same school; I avoided pools before games because every good father knows pools are and forever will be the kryptonite of any prodigy baseball player; and I inevitably quit baseball because every cool kid knows baseball practice kinda sucks and pools are kinda awesome. But the best part of my summer as a child had nothing to do with baseball and everything to do with the celebration afterwards. It was pizza from one of the seemingly hundreds of options. Or maybe it was snagging an Oreo Clipper from the Jer-Zee (*name drop, Google it*), but never finishing it because I was 8-years-old and who trusts me with those kinds of decisions? And if I was really lucky, it was heading over to Stewart’s Root Beer for a truck picnic of delicious deep fried fair food. Stewart’s Root Beer is your traditional, old school drive-in diner. Car hop service. Root beer floats. It’s everything you would imagine if you’ve ever pictured your grandparents (or, parents...) going out to grab a milkshake and a burger before they go shoot the loop and listen to Bill Haley. If you scroll through their ‘About Me’ on Facebook, you’ll notice they’ve been serving up bites since 1925, but the original Stewart’s started in 1924 by a man named Frank Stewart. Legend has it that Frank was a school teacher who needed a little extra cash in the summertime so he opened up the first ever Stewart’s Drive-In in 1924. Just a year later, the small time drive-in made the move to where it currently resides in Marion as the oldest operating Stewart’s in the country. Michelle Whitaker, owner, operator, and general doit-all superwoman, said the original Stewart’s would sell root beer and other sodas along with popcorn that was extra salty—business is business and those soda sales numbers don’t lie! Sundays were the big day as they were Popcorn Sundays—a major hit in a town that would eventually have a festival and museum about popcorn. •
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Eventually, Stewart’s would expand into a bigger menu, adding items like coney dogs, hamburgers, and fries as well as venturing into its most iconic feature: the root beer floats with hard ice cream. You park your car right next to the ordering machine and a carhop will bring your food right to your window on an aluminum tray. These menu updates throughout the early 1930s and into the 1950s are surprisingly just about it when it comes to the current menu. Whitaker, who started working at Stewart’s in 1996 as a carhop, said the families in the past haven’t added much to the menu and she’s been following suit. Well, that and when she switched over from a traditional credit card reader to an iPad with a Square credit card reader, she caught a lot of flack from the regulars. People like their Stewart’s how it is, and she is well aware of that. Recently, someone stopped by on a Sunday asking for popcorn—that’s how long people have been coming here.
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"Stewart's is everything you would imagine if you’ve ever pictured your grandparents (or, parents...) going out to grab a milkshake and a burger before they go shoot the loop and listen to Bill Haley." She’s added menu specials to see how they do—she’s been having success with hits like sweet corn nuggets (a personal favorite) and mac’n’cheese bites (a universal favorite)—and if they’re gaining enough love, she’ll keep ’em on the menu. Other than that, it’s the same coney dogs and super burgers they’ve been serving up for decades now. Currently, Whitaker takes care of the operations of Stewart’s. She prepares food when things are getting busy in the small set-up. She takes orders from the cashier stand when the carhops are running orders and preparing drinks. She’s the handy-woman who knows what to do when the ice machine isn’t making ice on Sunday and it’s 85 degrees out. And she, along with her husband, make the nine-hour drive to New Jersey to restock on the iconic Stewart’s Root Beer every couple of months during operations. It might seem chaotic at times, but Stewart’s staff is a close family that has been built on a word-of-mouth basis. Meaning they don’t have an application: you either know someone working at Stewart’s, or you don’t. My sister got a job there in high school because my cousin worked there. My cousin got the job because her best friend started there. She got the job because … you get the idea. Just like the restaurant, the staff is connected and entrenched into the joint’s 100-year history. It also helps that Stewart’s is only open from March to September, another thing that keeps people coming back and loving it. In Marion, you know when that first halfway decent day in March comes everyone will be rushing over to Stewart’s for a quick bite. And you know right when the Popcorn Festival is about to come to town, people will be flocking for one last piece of homemade strawberry pie before they close up for the winter. Beyond the menu, Whitaker said she does want to add on a few things to the restaurant. She added picnic tables in the back and those were a huge hit, so she plans to build on that momentum by adding some more tables as well as some more lighting. She’s free to add as she pleases, just as long as anything she adds is the color orange. She also mentioned dreams of creating a Stewart’s Food Truck—and to that I say, HELL YES—but for now it’s almost July and those strawberries for the pie aren’t gonna cut themselves. Much like my conversation I had with her before this story, she’s gotta get back to work and I don’t think she’d have it any other way. • Stewart’s Root Beer is located on 1036 N Main St. in Marion, Ohio. For more, visit stewartsmarion.com.
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118 WEST FRONT STREET, SUITE G NAPOLEON, OH 43545 419-599-WINE(9463) THELUMBERYARDWINERY.COM OPEN: THURSDAY 4-8PM FRI FRIDAY& SATURDAY 12-9PM SUNDAY 1-5PM FOR EVENTS & ENTERTAINMENT FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK
Closer to God Columbus levels up their patio game By Travis Ho ew isc h er • P h otos by co l l i n s L aats c h
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•VASO
6540 Riverside Dr. Look, we know that it gets cliche to say something or someplace provides a whole new view of the city, but atop VASO, it doesn’t feel Dublin, and it certainly doesn’t feel like Columbus. One of the more exciting facets of the suburb’s new Bridge Park development, its upscale rooftop space is cozy and contemporary at once, and the seefor-miles perspective of the county is as impressive as they come. (Plus, you can see all the hospitals from there!) •
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•Novak’s Tavern & Patio
474 N High St. The OG of the OT (on top) drinking space. Back in the day, their tiny square of fire-escape-adjacent was what sufficed for legal rooftop revelry, and when the new owners took over a few years back they made sure to put dollars and thought into the space. It’s really just a bar—but that’s part of its charm. No dance parties; no Jenga, just a place to belly up to the bar—where you can turn your back to the world and get a little sun on your neck.
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•Callahan’s
520 Park St. One of old-school rooftop spaces, Callahan’s is one of the few bars that may be better known for their second floor than their ground floor space. After recently renovating their space, it’s alive again with a good old-fashioned bump-andgrind dancefloor, something we could all use a little of every once in awhile.
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•Juniper
580 N Fourth St. You’re not really doing Columbus right now if you haven’t made at least one visit to Juniper. Doubling as the best wedding view and patio, this for-rent venue on the weekends, bar/restaurant during the week has made quite the splash atop the Smith Brothers building since its opening last year. Mind the calendar, though: it’s only open to the public Tuesday-Friday, and could be booked for a private event.
•BrewDog Franklinton 463 W Town St. The rakish lads from Scotland never do anything without fanfare, and the second of their two new brewpubs is no exception. Its open-air, two-story concept is an imposing addition to the Town Street block of Franklinton, the literal crowning achievement being the second floor patio. One of the best, and perhaps the only patio view of the city from the West Side, you can easily gather the crowd in front of the corrugated steel-covered container bar from street level. Extra points for massive bean bag chairs and access from indoors and out. At BrewDog, you’re on top of the world—but looking up to Columbus. •
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•Seventh Son •RAM
906 N High St. These guys can claim the only rooftop space in the hottest area of town (Short North) and its half-facade provides cozy cover and a little protection from the elements. No frills here—just all chill.
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•Little Rock Bar 944 N Fourth St. One of the first new bars to kick-start the rooftop rally, Little Rock is on their second summer of secondary space—a small L-shaped outdoor lounge that complements the main floor’s beerand-shot simplicity. No smoking, no cover, and no worries overlooking Fourth Street’s busy buzz.
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1101 N Fourth St. It was a 4/20 miracle when Seventh Son pulled off a last-minute open of their new second floor space just in time for Willie Nelson’s birthday (needs fact-checking). Never afraid to do their own thing, Seventh Son’s next-level expansion isn’t open to all of Columbus—but to all people, of course. Retractable roof tiles give them the advantage of year-round use, giving it adaptability for all seasons. It’s not the old Seventh Son, but it’s an even better version of the same vibe.
•Platform Beer Co. 408 N Sixth St. Just like their Cleveland birthplace, Platform is the blue-collar lunch pail patio of the capital city. Come by on Tuesdays to drink for a good, rotating cause and take a pint up-top where you can once say you saw the city before it developed into what it is today (tomorrow). • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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Poochin’ on the
Patio By J e n i R u i s c h
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veryone that knows me personally knows that my dog is the love of my life (apologies to my fiance…) For the thousands reading this and nodding eagerly in agreement, have I got news for you. Earlier this year, the Ohio House passed a bill that stated dogs shall be allowed on bar and restaurant patios at the discretion of the owners of the establishment. So basically—all the cool kids are doin’ it. Now, it’s official: You can enjoy your suds with your best bud. Just keep ‘em on the leash and make sure they have plenty of water. 2018 is the summer of the dog.
Seventh Son in Italian Village, and Land Grant Brewing Company in Franklinton had a direct hand in making patios paw friendly for the capital city canine crowd. The new Franklinton Brew Dog right across the street will give you another option when those weekend crowds start to fill in. Help yourself to some Challah! Goodness at Woodlands, but their fare is too good to share with your pooch… Right? Just up the road, Ohio Taproom is a streetside escape for you and your pal. Oddfellows Liquor Bar is possibly the original dog bar, with a mostly fenced-in patio. Walk right up the street to Julep for a change of pace with your pup, all in the Short North. Standard Hall has a huge amount of outside space, making it a good starter for dogs who need to learn patio manners. Take them before it gets busy, 48
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and bring lots of treats. Pretty soon, they’ll associate cocktails with happiness, just like you do. Little Rock is the most laid-back spot to bring.. Well, Spot. You might even see a special guest appearance from resident pup, Harvey. Gresso’s is a German Village doggie destination with food, booze, and plenty of shade for those dog day afternoons. Plus, it’s just a hop, skip, and a jump from both Scioto Audubon and Schiller Parks. Pins Mechanical Co. downtown also has plenty of patio space, and a little fenced in dog park right around the corner at 4th and Spring, if your pal wants to stretch his legs, or if nature calls. Up north in Worthington, Natalie’s has room for furry friends on the patio, where you can hear the tunes from inside. The Bottle Shop has plenty
Brewdog photo by TommyFeisel
of shaded tables, underneath which your dog can sit and stare at you longingly. And
Harvest has multiple patio locations where you can find friendly Fidos. •
Paws and Reflect: Tips for taking your dog to the bar:
Bring a bowl with you. You can get collapsible travel bowls cheap, and your dog needs refreshment, too! Not all dogs enjoy crowded patios. Give it the old college try, and be observant. If your dog seems stressed, accept it and leave them at home. The bar scene ain’t for everyone. Always ask before you pet a stranger’s dog. Just like Mama taught you. Some dogs might be chill in loud, public spots, but not chill with another dog invading their space. Always ask before your overly-friendly pooch tries to make friends. Just like humans, not all dogs enjoy chatting with strangers. Watch your intake of high-octane beverages. Patrons with pups should be awake and aware. It never hurts to call ahead and ask if dogs are welcome, and how busy a place is. Take frequent breaks away from the crowd so your dog has a chance to go. No one wants piddle on the patio. Occasional barks, growls, whines, and grumbles are just their way of talking. Let dogs be dogs. If people stay cool, pups will usually follow their lead. 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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A mini guide to the biggest mobile food fest in the
all the land
By J en i R u i s c h • p h otos by co l l i n s l aats c h
O
nce again, Columbus is the site of the largest gathering of food trucks in the Midwest. As a region known for indulging our bread baskets, that’s no small feat. The Seventh Annual Columbus Food Truck Festival rolls into the capital city, downtown on the Scioto Mile and at Bicentennial Park on Friday, August 17th, and Saturday August 18th. The fest will run on eight cylinders from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and entry is free! All you need to bring is an empty tummy.
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Lo co Sw e ets Craving a sweet treat? Loco Sweets has your south of the border bases covered when it comes to your after-dinner desires. Refreshing fruit paletas are only $3, and the choices only get more fun from there. Cheesecake Chimichangas and Churros Locos are intriguing enough to make us want to buy them both, but do we dare indulge? The churros come with dippable sides, but we like to bend the rules and dip them in our waffle cones with an extra scoop. We’ll sweat all that summer weight off, anyway.
•
Ch i cky Ch i cky Wa fflE
Waffle-battered, you say? AND served on waffles? Possibly the only addition that could make fried chicken even better than it already is… Chicky Chicky Waffle has taken a tried-and-true recipe for success, and made it wholly their own. Using touches of flair like spicy maple syrup and pumpkin fries, Chicky Chicky makes slammin’ fare of sweet and savory flavor combos.
Ba ba n zo Fa l a f e l Shawarma, Kebab, Fattoush, Falafel! The Babanzo menu is almost as fun to say as it is to eat! Cooking up the delights of his home country of Jordan, owner Salah AlSoudani is an accomplished heating and cooling engineer, but his heart lay in his recipe books. With encouragement from family and friends, he decided to grace Columbus with his Middle Eastern classic flavor combinations full-time. • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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Sw e et To ot h T w i st e d I ce Cre a m
•
The guys behind Sweet Tooth have a combined culinary background, but still realize that there’s nothing quite like a cool ice cream cone on a summer day. While you wait in line for Asian-fusion-vegankale-burger-taco-waffles at one truck, you can count on the guys at Sweet Tooth to bring it back home for a moment of nostalgia with their customs soft serve and hard serve flavors.
Mo mma Ca n Co o k From grilled sweet corn to adobo chicken bowls, the food that Momma makes, makes us happy. Whether this family business is parked at Pins Mechanical Co. downtown or in Dublin, or they’re attending food truck fests, this comfort food made fresh will keep all those beers in your belly company while you wait for your turn in duckpin bowling. 52
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•
T h e Tasty Go o d
If you ever want comfort food, what better way to go back than to eat your favorite childhood foods? Kid’s menu lovers everywhere rejoice at the sight of Tasty Good’s offerings. Chicken fingers, mac-n-cheese, special sauces, and sweet rolls. When your belly wants home, Tasty Good marks the spot.
J u st J e rks : E n a’s Ja ma i ca n Gri ll The culinary genius of Ms. Ena branches out in a family tree of Jamaican cuisine meal tickets on wheels. Visit her brickand-mortar on Cleveland and Myrtle avenues, and save some space in your belly for her food truck, headed by her sons. Jerk cuisine is a family affair. But lucky for Columbus, they’re willing to grace us with their goodness. •
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Summer in Ohio? Travel to a random town and throw down. • By Je n i R u i s c h •
f you want some old school Americana in your life, and to flashback to when you were a kid, fairs and festivals will bring back memories like the smell of fried food in the air. Step outside the outerbelt in an effort to broaden your horizons, and let your kids get a taste of summer road trips and weekends in the country. This is what Ohio summers are made of.
7.13-14
Marietta Sweet Corn Festival
(Marietta) It’s not just a mutant grass, it’s a cultural entity. Whether you’re originally from the midwest, or you just landed here, indulging in some buttery grilled sweet corn is the hallmark of summer. Boiled with a touch of honey, or grilled right next to the burgers and brats, nothing says Ohio like munchin’ on a cob.
7.14
Fire in Your Mouth, Fire in the Sky (College Corner) Hannon’s Camp America hosts everything from weddings to concerts, to this mish-mash of summer celebrations featuring all things flaming. Sparks will fly as you sample some the spiciest fare in western Ohio, and watch the skies for an evening of pyrotechnics.
8.4-5
McComb Cookie Festival
(McComb) The McComb community puts on a heck of a fest, with a community garage sale, a parade, a fishing derby, and even a cookie king and queen crowned Saturday evening. Come for the cookies, stay for the comradery. 54
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8.24-25
Uncork’d WineFest
(Ashtabula) In the North Eastern corner of Ohio, right on the edge of the land, the lake is a huge part of everyday life. Take the Uncork’d Festival as a chance to journey up to this hidden gem of Ohio and enjoy wines from local vintners, and a fishing competition that will blow those Alum Creek catches right out of the water.
8.31-9.2
Perch, Peach, Pierogi & Polka Festival
(Port Clinton) Another town on the shores of the Great Lake Erie, Port Clinton celebrates summer with Lake Erie-caught perch, local peach cobbler (with local ice cream, of course), and two things that go particularly well with beer: polka and pierogies. There will be polka lessons for those of you unfamiliar with the oom-pah steps, and a pierogi eating contest where you can’t possibly lose.
9.7-8
Appalachian Bacon Nation
(Coshocton) The fest’s name speaks volumes. The once breakfast food that now graces every meal, snack and dessert has festivals popping up all across the country. If you ever needed a reason to visit Coshocton, this must be it. And just to make sure you stay nice and healthy, there’s a “Bacon ‘N’ Leggs” 5K included in the festivities. Though we wouldn’t blame you for sitting on the sidelines with a bacon donut in your hands.
9.22-23
Germantown Pretzel Festival
(Germantown) Leave it to Germantown to have a festival honoring the most german of buns, the brezel. A good, oldfashioned summer time fair, this event has rides for the kiddies, bands making music in the streets, and of course, plenty of foods of all kinds to eat while you stroll the streets of historic Germantown.
For an extensive list of all food and booze festivals in Ohio, visit ohiofestivals.net 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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By Aa r o n W e tl i • ILLUSTRATIONS BY D USTIN GOE B EL
A guide to food and drinks at Huntington Park
his city is changing. Construction cranes, increased traffic volume and new condos/retail builds are difficult to avoid. Even Ohio State campus institution The Blue Danube is packing up and leaving. If the emphasis on High Street corporate culture maintains its momentum, I wouldn’t be surprised if the former Dube will be a CVS with a Walgreens on the roof and a Starbucks in the lobby. In these changing times, Columbus is going through growing pains but not hunger pangs. One place you can go for respite from change—to support the local economy, and to get plenty of sun, suds, and grub—is Huntington Park. Get your old faithfuls, like hot dogs, popcorn, peanuts and Cracker Jacks, all for under $5. There’s no bad seat in the Huntington house. Wherever you are, you can always see the two most important things in the park: the game, and a beer stand. From macro to micro, national to local, little huts of heaven offer buckets of suds in varying sizes. But beyond the traditional fare, you may want to make an evening out of your ball game, complete with dinner. Check out these less traditional options next time you catch a game. Let’s grab one of many craft beers, go full Pete Rose, and slide face-first into our options.
A local staple brings in the beef… And pork. The only thing that could possibly make a day at the ballpark better is eating ribs. You can go the less messy route and avoid the stains on your new Clippers jersey by getting the hand-held options, pulled pork and chicken sandwiches. The lineup of sides is all here: coleslaw, mac & cheese, and corn bread. • Ribs $1.50 per bone on Tuesdays • Two pulled pork sandwiches $5 on Fridays
The Columbus food classic lives on in the freezer aisle, and at Huntington Park. Gone are the days of steaming Tiki drinks, and luau-style atmosphere, but you can still catch a pop fly entree of delicious food from the first floor food stand with the Polynesian flair. • Orange or General Tso’s chicken $9.25 • BBQ pork or sesame chicken Yum Yum sticks $1 each
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Elevated sports fare, with a side of Biscuits n’ Gravy Bob Evans is a down home sponsor at Huntington Park, lest you start to wonder why their breakfast foods are offered at the games. But they’ve brought their best efforts at ballpark food, with their brats and sausages, offered in pretzel buns with kraut, peppers, and onions—for a premium. • Bratwurst and Italian sausages $5.25 • Pretzel bun upgrade $1.25
A throwback atmosphere honoring the great American game. Plastered with baseball cards, photos, uniforms, equipment and plaques, the Hall of Fame Club is the best museum bar in town. With a dozen taps, apps, a multitude of delicious sandwiches under ten bucks, and a great view of the game, this might be the best date night spot in the house. • Fried cauliflower $7.50 • Hummus platter $13
Root, root root for the home team at the Cut Loose HQ for Clippers games Located directly above the Hall of Fame Bar, the Clippers Craft House offers bleacher as well as traditional seating. The Craft House offers starters like fries and pretzel nuggets, but the real stars of the show are the boneless wings. If the Hall of Fame is a date night destination, the Craft House is more of an option to cut loose. • Angus sliders $7.50 • Bacon wrapped hot dog $5.50
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Gobble Up the Cup Downtown diners get a new on-the-go option By W i l l Jo h n sto n * p h otos by to mm y f e i s e l
B
ehold, the lowly cup! That ancient vessel, so integral to slaking human thirst, yet so often ignored. History finds but few examples of cups that transcend their domestic domain and ascend to mythical heights. There is of course the Cup of Jamshid, the fabled stein of a Persian king that was said to offer a glimpse of all of heaven and earth to those who beheld its contents. And in those heavens one can find Crater, the celestial chalice of the god Apollo. And lest we forget the most famous of all, the Holy Grail, which, besides granting eternal life, is the reason we have the DaVinci Code; praise be to Dan Brown! Sadly, in the modern context the cup has once again taken its place as the most humble of crockery, at best holding our bespoke cocktails, at worst, housing an iced coffee for an hour only to be discarded on the trash heap of history. But no more my friends, for the oft ignored cup has a new partner, one that is sure to restore the taken-for-granted-goblet to its rightful place in the pantheon of dishware, and that partner is pizza! • 58
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Friends, has this ever happened to you? You’re running late to an important meeting and you’ve only got a few minutes to find nourishment to sustain yourself through another one of Chad’s “slide decks”. (Also, why does he insist on calling it a “slide deck”? It’s a powerpoint presentation about monthly sales reports, not a TED Talk, Chad!) Sure, you could grab a quick salad, but, like a malnourished Ninja Turtle or an Olsen Twin at a sleepover, only one thing will do: pizza! If only pizza was served in a manner more conducive to your hectic urban lifestyle. Enter Viiza, the Brooklynbased pizza chain located at the heart of Broad & High that has done what the ancients said was impossible: serving pizza in, you guessed it, a cup. Vizza offers a wide assortment of traditional and Asian-inspired pizzas, all served in their trademark cone-shaped crust. Viiza showcases what happens when the ergonomic meets the gastronomic, offering a unique take on an enduring classic with grab-and-go service aimed at the time-strapped pizza lover. You’ll find old favorites like pepperoni with tomato sauce 60
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and a Hawaiian cone replete with pineapple and sausage, to more exotic cones like Peking Duck and Sea Bass. They even boast a dessert menu with a Bluthian Banana and chocolate cone as well as a Durian cone, a fruit with such olfactory intensity that it is banned on public transportation throughout Asia. What’s that you say? You’d like even more disruption to those old-world notions of what constitutes a cup? Well Viiza has you covered. Try one of their “Lightbulb Drinks,” which, much to the chagrin of the r/wewantplates community, is served in, yep, a lightbulb. Combining the utility of a vessel famously known for breaking with the mysterious allure of a K-Pop concert, these Asian-inspired beverages are sure to be the most interesting part of Chad’s meeting. Again, flavors range from the purly pedestrian, like Lemon or Peach Green Tea, to the truly perplexing, like Calpico Grape and something called “Star Milk.” Forget your paltry and plebeian ideas of what counts as a cup and what that cup should be used for. Try Viiza today for what amounts to a savory fish-filled ice cream cone and drinks some stuff out of a lightbulb. •
Vizza is open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner at 4 E Broad St. For more, visit viizausa.com. 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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Dough Show Finding a slice of the Big Apple—and a pizza tossing champ—at Leone’s Pizza By Linda Lee Baird • P h oto by Col l i n s L aats c h
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S
ince my family moved to Columbus from Brooklyn in December, something has been bothering my four-yearold: the pizza. Specifically, the Columbus method of cutting pies into rectangles. He’s a kid raised on classic slices, with crusts that fold into your mouth and frame the toppings with a crisp exclamation. So began my family’s quest to find New York pizza in our new hometown. When Googling brought me to a photo of Ryan LaRose, owner of Leone’s Pizza, tossing a crust that was literally on fire, I added his shop to our mustvisit list. Leone’s has the feel of a Brooklyn pizza shop, right down to the limited seating. (LaRose tells me that about 70 percent of his business is carryout). Still, there was another family of four eating there the night we visited, and LaRose immediately helped us settle in. When I tried to order two small pies, he suggested getting a large half-and-half instead, saving us money. Fifteen minutes later, LaRose placed a bubbling pizza, half cheese, half Tartufo (mozzarella, mushrooms, and truffle oil) in front of us. My son’s eyes widened at the sight of the golden crust as he exclaimed, “Finally! Triangles!” We ate it all, save for one slice we took home to try with a beer (Leone’s is on the waiting list for a liquor license). I’m happy to report it held up. I spoke with LaRose and Manager Sidney Sanders to learn more about Leone’s. It was the day after they captured the People’s Choice Award at Slice of Worthington 2018, and LaRose was proud to add to the prizes he’s accumulated for both acrobatic pizza tossing and his outstanding food.
What’s the Leone’s story? RL: I’ve always wanted my own shop. I’d just lost my job at a pizza shop around here, and I was on Craigslist looking for a job and this place was up for sale... So, alright, I’ll open my own place. Got it, and there’s 10 trophies [recognizing Leone’s] sitting around here. What do you recommend a first-time Leone’s visitor order? RL: Cheese. Because, If you don’t do the dough, the sauce and the cheese right, than why... would you get anything else there? How did you get into dough tossing? RL: “Acrobatic pizza tossing.” Oh! RL: The first pizza shop I worked at, they had these magazines, and on the back there’s an advertisement for a plastic throw dough. So I bought one. I’m 17, and I’d just started making pizzas. I went to [my] first competition in 2007, [and] I won… I think if you’re going to do something like [run a pizza shop], everyday, its the same thing over and over. So if you’re going to do something for the rest of your life, why not make it fun and win shit? What’s your signature move? RL: There’s a move called the bicycle (he demonstrates holdinging the dough vertically and spinning it backwards towards him). What I did was reversed it and made it roll forward. The guys call it the LaRose. Where is the coolest place your pizza tossing has taken you? RL: Paris [as a member of the US Pizza Team]. We had foie gras on top of the Eiffel tower, and then they asked us
to toss pizzas because we’re all pizza guys, and we did. We took the elevator down to the bottom and did a show right in front of the Eiffel tower. I had one of those stupid berets on too. Do you have a memorable pizza tossing mishap? RL: In 2009… when I got 4th place [at the World Pizza Olympics in Italy], I should have won… but instead, I thought, “let’s try something new,” and I laid on my stomach, and I tried to toss pizzas like (he makes tiny hand gestures)… SS : ...with an inch of space! RL: I guarantee you, if I didn’t do that, I would have won. I was the first person to light dough on fire in a competition! And that was the [competition]... I was so mad at myself. What made you decide to do New York style? RL: It’s what I love. I mean, it’s what I grew up on, that’s what my family ate on Fridays, that’s what I was taught… SS: That’s what the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Ate. RL: That’s what the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles ate! That’s actually fair. (I tell them about my son’s enthusiastic reaction his first New York style pizza in Ohio.) RL: He’ll never forget that. I think that’s the main reason why I opened this place. You remember the first pizza you had. When you see that again when you’re 30, your heart breaks. •
This conversation has been edited for length and clarity. Leone’s is located at 5413 Sinclair Rd.
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Pizza Pilgrimage Head north to sample some out-of-county pies By L i n da L e e B a i rd P H OTOS BY B r i a n Kai ser
F
ull disclosure: most of the time I’ve spent driving on Route 23 has involved either a stressful commute or a trip to a mall—also stressful. It’s fair to say it’s not my favorite road. But I decided to give 23 a chance to prove itself by planning the least stressful trip I could imagine: a pizza roadtrip to Delaware County. If pizza can’t redeem a heavily-trafficked highway, I’m not sure anything can. I mapped out three spots I’d heard about but hadn’t tried, and started on my way. The good news: the drive was worth it. The pizzas I tried drew from the traditional Columbus tavern style, but weren’t quite like what I’ve tasted in the city. And if you’re not ready to make peace with 23, 315 and 71 will get you there as well.
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Taranto’s Pizzeria 1282 E Powell Rd.
Good for: Celebrating with the whole family Style: Columbus thin crust tavern-style or hand-tossed (pie cut) Delivery: Yes Beer/Wine: Yes Staff Recommends: Original thin crust pizza with pepperoni, Italian sub, stromboli Why it’s unique: Taranto’s has an event space where they host receptions, birthday parties, and craft nights. What to do nearby: Visit Highbanks or Alum Creek State Park. Taranto’s will even deliver to you there!
The Taranto family has been in the pizza business for 25 years, using a recipe passed down through generations. When Debbie Taranto decided to open her own restaurant near Polaris 17 years ago, it was a completely different area than it is now. “Where Chase [bank] stands today… was a farmhouse, and I literally went and knocked on the farmhouse door and asked, Where can I put a pizzeria? She ended up in a space at the corner of a strip mall that she expanded two years ago to accommodate weekend crowds, events, and organized craft nights. Taranto’s also hosts children’s birthday parties where young guests make their own pizzas and tour the kitchen. Even though the original family recipe was for thin-crust pizza, Taranto adapts her menu to suit her clients. “[The] Polaris area is such a transient area… everyone was looking for [the pizza] they grew up with,” she said, adding that many newcomers wanted a New York style pizza. “We probably spent like six months … until we got to one what that was not the same as everyone else’s [and] had a great flavor profile, and it was a hit.” That’s the one I sampled. The thick crust balances the sweetness of the sauce and the gooeyness of the cheese. “You always have to do quality,” Taranto says. “There really is a difference in the type of sauce that you use, the type of cheese, the meats.” This carries into the dough, which is made on-site. Taranto’s is pizza you can eat while you party, craft, or camp. • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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Shorty’s
554 W Central Ave., Delaware Good for: Watching sports while drinking craft beer Style: “Shorty’s” (medium-thick crust) Delivery: No Beer/Wine: Yes Staff Recommends: The Buckeye pizza topped with pepperoni, sausage, bacon and ham; chicken wings; all washed down with a Shorty’s Golden Ale Why it’s unique: Experimental craft brews on tap and award-winning chicken wings
Though you wouldn’t know it from its funky downtown, Delaware is a community built on horseracing. When Thom Ibinson and John Cordas bought Shorty’s three years ago, they inherited the building’s legacy as a place locals came to watch the races. They kept the tradition going and started showing other sports, notably Buckeye football. Talk between patrons about the games is one of the ways Shorty’s brings people together. Building community has always been part of the Shorty’s vision. “It’s a destination spot... because we don’t deliver and we do that on purpose... We want people to feel like when they come here they’re part of a family almost,” Cordas said. The connections are apparent in the relationships Shorty’s has with neighboring businesses, notably Downtown Delaware’s Restoration Brewers. “Frank, the owner, would come in here and get his pizza for his family. And we just got to talking with him one day and next thing we know, we’re making our own beer… “Shorty’s Golden Ale.’” They also make their own dough. “That’s the most important thing because you can control the texture and flavor,” Ibinson tells me. They call their crust “Shorty’s style,” and true to their description, it’s unlike others I’ve sampled—chewy yet light and not overly thick. “Between the homemade sauce, the homemade dough, and the artisan cheese, that takes it all to the top,” Ibinson said. They recently opened a second location in Powell with a full bar and 26 taps, including growlers available for carryout— another stop you can make off the beaten path of 23. 66
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The Pizza Cabin 5808 Columbus Pike
Good for: Those days you want dessert after pizza, rustic ambiance Style: Columbus thin crust tavern-style Delivery: Yes Beer/Wine: No Staff recommends: Pepperoni or cheese pizza, meatball sub, cheesecake Why it’s unique: The Pizza Cabin is located in the only log cabin on Route 23 What to do nearby: Visit the Columbus Zoo and Aquarium and Downtown Powell, or grab a pizza after visiting the Polaris area or playing laser tag in Lewis Center.
You can’t miss The Pizza Cabin—an actual log cabin located near the midpoint between Downtown Columbus and Downtown Delaware. Built in the 1950s, it feels in some ways out of place amidst the new development, and yet it’s exactly what you hope to find on a roadtrip: something unexpected. The building’s history is as alluring as its architecture; in addition to housing several different restaurants over the years, it was once a leather tack shop. “Rumor is the Victoria’s Secret models would come here and [the owner] made them leather underwear,” owner Preston Runyon said. This is a place to bring your friends if you want to hear stories, and write some new ones of your own. “We kick it old-school,” Runyon tells me, “stone ovens... scratch product... lots of toppings edge-to-edge.” The pizza hits all the right notes. I tried one topped with pepperoni and mushroom; the meat was crisp and flavorful, complementing the tang of the tomato sauce. And while Runyon recommends any first-time visitor try the pizza, he adds that, “we really talk about the scratch meatballs, the scratch cheesecake, the smoked wings” as other standouts on the menu. The meatballs recipe was developed through a partnership with a local Italian bakery, and the cheesecake is topped with fruit compote in whopping half-pound slices—another patron worried that it would weigh my car down on the drive home. Luckily, my Honda could handle it, and we made it safely to our final destination. • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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17 Simply Rolled Photo by TOMMY Feisel
Flavors
These local frozen treats go beyond the cone
A
by J. R . M c M i l l a n
sk any 10 strangers on the street what makes Columbus stand out and you’ll probably get 10 different answers. But odds are no one will say frozen confections, and that’s a serious oversight. Sure, Ohio’s ice cream scene has its roots in prohibition era politics and the non sequitur notion that replacing booze with scoops would somehow catch on. But it’s hard to hate on the idea that the best cure for a hot day is still a cold one—regardless of whether it comes in a can or a cone. Jeni’s has definitely raised our international credibility as an ice cream innovator. (Seriously, they now serve it in business class on Scandinavian Airlines flights to Copenhagen.) But the trend doesn’t end there. Complex flavor combinations and unlikely ingredients abound around town, along with alternate formats that redefine the familiar summertime treat. 68
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World Class Simply Rolled 970 N High St.
Tucked inside the Oats & Barrel Market is the next new thing, Thai-style rolled ice cream. Though their teainspired offerings may be tempting, you don’t have to be vegan to fall in love with their organic cashew and coconut milk ice cream, topped with subtle lavender honey and crispy waffle bits.
Freeze Style 1731 W Lane Ave.
Still on the rolled ice cream kick, go traditional with Oreos and marshmallows, or go crazy with Lychee fruit and Pop Rocks. There are also several signature suggestions, like the decidedly Japanese Matcha Berry, a green tea base with strawberries, mochi, Pocky, and a little drizzle of sweetened condensed milk. • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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Cream & Sugar Photos by Brian Kaiser
Dulce Vida Ice Cream Factory Multiple locations
Mexican ice cream is rich and velvety from the extra butterfat, but it’s the options that catch your attention before the first bite. From decadent Blackberry and Cheese and delicate Cactus Flower to Sweet Corn and creamy Goat Milk Caramel, there’s far more than a measly 31 flavors from which to choose.
Diamonds Ice Cream Multiple locations
Paletas is Spanish for “small sticks”, but these popsicles aren’t like any you’ll find in your local grocery store. Homemade with or without milk, there’s something for everyone, both sweet and savory. Wholesliced Strawberry & Kiwi pops are cool for the kids, or maybe the Watermelon Chili pops for the grownups.
Coppa Gelato 925 N State St, Westerville
Italian ice cream actually has a little less fat, but is slow churned for a more dense and intense consistency. Served slightly above freezing, it’s made to melt in your mouth. Try a flight of any four flavors, or perhaps the Belgian Chocolate served “affogato” with a double shot of espresso poured on top.
Bonifacio 1577 King Ave
Known for their modern spin on Filipino brunch and monthly Kamayan, or family-style dinners, it would be easy to overlook the dessert menu. But the Ube Ice Cream Sandwich, made from purple sweet potato, stuffed in a deep-fried bun topped with coconut and caramel is the street food favorite you didn’t know you were missing.
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Old School Cool Cream & Sugar 2185 Sullivant Ave.
Never short on snarky names—like Fat Elvis, Munchie Madness, and The $&@! Just Got Serious—guilty pleasure is an understatement. If your kid’s summer sugar rush makes the school year seem far away, try a double scoop of Exhausted Parent (bourbon-spiked espresso ice cream with bittersweet chocolate chunks) for a late-day pick-me-up.
Hilltop Dairy Twist 2860 Sullivant Ave.
Looking for more than 40 flavors of soft-serve? Swirled on a cone or into a cup, the entire experience is an echo of a simpler era. If you try their legendary blueberry shake, be sure to ask for extra blueberries and a big barrel straw so they don’t stay stranded on the bottom.
Clown Cones & Confections 3431 Cleveland Ave.
If clowns give you the creeps, consider yourself warned. But if sweet execution of creative flavors and a candy selection that would terrify any dentist are your thing, get in line. Decorated with decades of clown kitsch, channel your inner child and order a scoop of Birthday Cake ice cream with sprinkles. •
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The Little Ice Cream Shoppe 3229 Hilliard Rome Rd.
For a city full of families, sometimes even ice cream gets too highfalutin. Not here. Clearly kid-friendly, hand-dipped treats of yesteryear share the spotlight with some surprises. The Key Lime Pie ice cream might make you pleasantly pucker and the Peanut Butter Brownie is the right balance between chewy and chilly.
Johnson’s Real Ice Cream Multiple locations
It’s hard to get more original than an ice cream parlor that opened in 1950. Four generations later, they’re still serving Bexley, plus two new locations. Can’t decide between a sundae and a split? Get both with a “Fudge Split,” three scoops and a banana covered in hot fudge, nuts, and whipped cream with a cherry on top.
Mardi Gras Homemade Ice Cream 1947 Hard Rd.
The name remains a bit of a misnomer. Though the style of ice cream is all American, the flavors feature an Indian flare. You’ll still find the traditional favorites, but who could resist the intrigue of Anjeer, rich and nutty dried fig, or the call of Kesar Pista, a blend of saffron, cardamom, and pistachio?
No Cone Required SNO-OH This one actually is a Crescent City classic, just not ice cream. These New Orleans-style snoballs (don’t dare call them snow cones) are as fluffy as freshly fallen snow, perfectly packaged in Chinese take-out boxes. From straight-up strawberry to a spicy Pineapple-Habanero, their camper turned pop-up shop is worth tracking down. 72
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Sno-oh Photos by Megan Leigh Barnard
J-Pops Gourmet Ice Pops Found at farmers markets and festivals throughout town, the name is a nod to the founder’s fascination with Japanese pop culture. But these clever creations know no borders with complex culinary combinations ranging from Lemon-Basil and Blackberry Mojito to Orange Honey Chamomile and Honeydew Cracked Black Pepper.
PRime Time Curiously Crafted Pops Featured at various events around Columbus, these upscale popsicles easily impress adults and kids alike. Their small batch chic status is earned and evident with year-round standards like Strawberry Angostura and Peanut Butter & Jelly, to sublime seasonal selections like White Nectarine Rosé and Sugar Cube Cantaloupe.
OH-YO ! Frozen Yogurt 4226 Buckeye Pkwy., Grove City
Most “fro-yo” is only so-so, further diminished by its pervasive presence in strip malls and corporate cafeterias. But sweet treats like Toasted Marshmallow and Pecan Praline, and tart variations like Pomegranate Raspberry, deserve attention even before adding any of the hundreds of topping options from fresh fruit to candy crunch.
39 Below Frozen Yogurt 85 Parsons Ave.
Already infamous as the only place in Columbus where you can get pho and fro-yo under the same awning, this Olde Towne East eatery excels at hot and cold take-out. Though Almond Butter is probably their fan favorite, collaborations like Honey Espresso made with Upper Cup coffee from next door keep flavors lively and local. • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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By W i l l J ohn sto n
ummer is in full swing, and with it the inevitable pressure to show a little skin. Whether you’re squeezing into last year’s novelty tank (Editor’s note: I am) or trying to get a few extra miles out of that old bikini, you may be tempted to cut sweets out of your regular routine. As food professionals, we cannot endorse such drastic measures. Instead, take a look at some of our choices for sweet treats that are just left of the center. Don’t skip dessert, upgrade it!
Santo Brigadeiro
santobrigadeirousa.com The next stop on our tour of extraordinary sweets is the cottage-made delights of Santo Brigadeiro. The Brigadeiro is a national desert of Brazil. These little round chocolate balls came to prominence in the post-war homes of Brazilian women, who, lacking access to fresh milk and sugar, turned to the much more abundant condensed milk and chocolate. While not exactly a household name in the States, these delights are ubiquitous at Brazilian birthday parties. Santo Brigadeiro shows us that this once humble confectionery is indeed worthy of the gourmet treatment, crafting unique flavors like bruleé, salted caramel, and golden pistachio. While not available in stores, orders can be made online. And keep your eyes peeled for these “Brazilian truffles” at this summer’s hippest weddings, clam bakes, and garden parties. •
Santo Brigadeiro photo by Brian Kaiser
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Smallcakes
1249 North Hamilton Rd. • smallcakescupcakery.com Our first choice for a not-your-average indulgence comes to us from the newly minted Smallcakes in Gahanna, the “cupcakery and creamery,” chain that invaded just a short time ago. They serve cakes and those cakes are small—you may know them as cupcakes. All made in-house, Smallcakes boasts varietals like Lemon Drop, Snickers, and Birthday Cake. They also have a selection of house-churned ice creams in flavors like Lily’s Strawberry and Cafe Latte. Now, we know what you’re thinking, “Ice cream? Cupcakes? How are these seemingly ordinary treats anything but average?” Enter the Smash: a Wonkian amalgam of cake and cream that is anything but common. Served in a 16-ounce glass, this monster of a dessert combines a cupcake of your choice with two scoops of Smallcakes’ delightful old-style ice cream. The bottom layer is comprised of the cupcake stump followed by ice cream with the cupcake top, replete with frosting, serving as the cherry on this delicious take on a sundae. The clever layering and flavor combinations make for what feels like three different snacks in one, as the top of the cupcake pairs with the first scoop and the cupcake stump enfuses with the second ice cream flavor, creating the perfect snack for the glucose enthusiast. We recommend bringing a partner to help you polish off the Smallcakes’ Smash as it is equal parts rich and filling. 76
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Mmelo photo by TOMMY Feisel
Mmelo
445 N High St. • mmelo.co Keeping with the theme of decadent bite-sized treats we need look no further than Mmelo Boutique Confections, located on Vine Street just up the block from North Market. Since the day the doors opened at this cozy Arena District café, Mmelo has been crafting some of the most unique and Instagram-worthy sweets in the city. Start with their namesake, the Marshmmelo, a sophisticated reimagining of the campfire classic. Flavors like pear-lemon-thyme and vanilla chai show why Mmelo’s titular snack never plays second fiddle to chocolate and Graham crackers. For an even more unique experience one must sample from Mmelo’s menu of Chocolate Tea Cakes, the two-bite treats that are almost too beautiful to eat. Flavors range from the simple, like caramelized banana caramel, to the challenging, like rosemary and shitake mushroom, and show why Mmelo is certainly the place for those of us with a sense of adventure that is as large as our sweet tooth.
Bake Me Happy
106 E Moler St. • bakemehappygf.com Finally, we head to Merion Village’s Bake Me Happy, the gluten free bakery that combines childhood nostalgia with a contemporary understanding of the needs of an increasingly diverse population of diners. Bake Me Happy, with their focus on those classic confections most commonly found in a grade school lunch box, shows that gluten free can actually be great, even for wheat eaters! Take for example their signature Oatmeal Cream Cloud, a loving pastiche of the Little Debbie original. When you see that rich cream wedged between two soft and sweet oatmeal cookies, the last thing on your mind is going to be the some missing wheat. Other better-without-gluten offerings include, Moon Pies, PopTarts, and Zebra Cakes. While there, pair your baked good with one of their seasonal beverages, which for the summer include, Rose Gold Iced Tea and Vietnamese Cold Coffee. • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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You’re Covered If you get panicked about bringing a dish to a local soiree—like a few folks on our Stock & Barrel team—use this guide as the perfect stop-and-shop
Portia’s Cafe. What’s being served off the grill at this BBQ, over there on the “far side” of the picnic table? The vegetarians and vegans need more than chips and dip to survive the summer heat, and join in the volleyball game. Without something more substantial, one or two of those mojitos will have them down for the count, snoozing under a lawn chair. Why not surprise them by bringing Super Power, Mediterranean, and Great Tofu Wraps from Portia’s to nosh on? Slice them up to share, and they will look so tasty that you may need to swat the carnivores away. Her 7-layer Sombrero Dip could constitute a meal in itself, with guacamole, salsa, black beans, onion, and Daiya cheese among the ingredients. Just add tortilla chips, and the whole crowd at the BBQ can avoid growing unnecessarily “hangry.” – Kathleen O’Dowd Mosley’s Meat Market. Don’t the hosts usually supply the beef patties? Be a BBQ iconoclast and show up with gourmet burgers that put the rest to shame. Preservative-free, 100 percent grass-fed and always local, these mouthwatering pleasure pucks are infused with goodies like bleu cheese and bacon. Go for the Buckeye Burger, a robust blend of hormone-free beef, bacon, cheddar and jalapeño. What, the meat’s already cooking when you show up? Never mind. Those chain-store, allegedly gourmet patties will get spatula-tossed to the back of the grate. Your hosts will thank you, and so will their grill. – Robert Hunt
Red Door BBQ. Look, you’re probably already there for the burnt ends, which have wafted their way into my nostrils like a cartoon cat, from all the way on the other side of the river. A little secret, though: you can skip the kitchen cleanup and flour hour at home and sneak out 3-4 of their homemade pies to ball at a BBQ. Bringing a delicious dessert at least made by a BBQ place counts, right? – Travis Hoewischer (photo by Collins Laatsch)
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Massey’s Pizza. You know what they say about pizza and sex, so how can you really go wrong with pizza? I don’t wanna like thin crust pizza, but the crushed cornmeal on the bottom of the crust, the pepperonis pulling themselves into little greasy cups, the toppings that cover every damn inch of the pie, makes this a Columbus classic that you can pair with just about anything. (If you’re feeling especially nice/guilty, pick up a cinnamon pizza as well). – Laura Dachenbach Ever been threatened to be kicked out of a cookout? It’s happened to me once or twice for the unforgivable offense of flaking on bringing my deviled eggs. (Look, they’re time consuming and a pain in the ass to transport!) But should I ever find myself struck with debilitating laziness again, Jordan’s Pub and Deli in Gahanna has got me covered. Their deviled eggs are made fresh daily and never fail on flavor. I’d also go ahead and scoop up a heap of their pasta salad as well, because chances are I dropped the ball on that one, too. – Johanna Vissman French Who’s gonna get mad that you didn’t bother to cook if you’re pushing a fresh cocktail into their hand? Stop by Middle West Spirits and get a bottle or two of their original recipe vodka. Arrive to play personal bartender with cups, ice, limes, lemons, and a few choice mixers, like your favorite soft drink, cranberry juice, and Bloody Mary mix. You can make virgin cocktails for kids, or grownups who forgo booze. Muddle in some sugar or a few berries, and your fellow BBQ goers will be feeling fancy in no time. Tiny umbrellas optional but encouraged. – Jeni Ruisch
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Sue Doody 1934 –2018
Editor’s Note: For decades Anne “Sue” Goetz Doody, served Columbus in more ways than one. Once an elementary school teacher, and always a community advocate, she turned a catering business into one of the most vaunted culinary establishments in Columbus history. According to her obituary, Lindey’s has seen more than 4 million guests come through their Beck Street entrance, employing more than 15,000 people since opening in 1981. Given Lindey’s influence on German Village and her countless nonprofit efforts, in honor of her passing, we present to you her legacy, in the words of another tireless community advocate and food industry legend. By Ja n e G r ote A b ell C h a i rwo ma n o f th e B oa r d, Do natos Pi zz a P h oto by Jo d i M i ller
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s I reflect on my memories of Sue Doody, I think first and foremost of her generosity and compassion. She was genuine, caring and loyal as she balanced her life in such a way with work and family that it appeared seamless. Her grace and authenticity created a contagious spirit of feeling welcomed whenever anyone was in her presence. Not only was she highly regarded as a very strong and smart businesswoman in our community, but she also ran her business with heart. I think one of the ways we can honor Sue’s legacy is to
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purchase and read her book As the Tables Turn. I also believe we can honor her memory in business and in our personal lives by following the example she set every day by living out the Golden Rule—treating others the way you wish to be treated. Sue always treated her customers like family at Lindey’s. It resonates with me in so many ways as I think back to how our family business got its start on the South Side of Columbus. Sue’s restaurant quickly became people’s second home in much the same way that I experienced life with our first Donatos. When we lived behind our first restaurant, my mom always invited people into our house while they waited for their pizza. Sue’s hospitality always reminded me of my mom’s; she would open up the front door and invite her guests in and after a short time they became family. She created a space where everyone felt like they belonged. Lindey’s has been touted as Columbus’s version of “Cheers” over the years, and it truly is a place where you always know someone and someone always knows your name. What an amazing legacy. While Sue was physically present at the restaurant, it was her presence that made you feel special. She never forgot a face, always remembered names, and recognized any and all business accomplishments and family celebrations. My favorite memory was the day my dad and I bought Donatos back from McDonald’s in 2003. The first place we chose to celebrate was to go to Lindey’s for lunch. Like any other day, the place was packed with so many community leaders and it soon became an unplanned celebration. The word had not gotten to the media yet, but once we arrived at Lindey’s we were surrounded by friends and family in the neighborhood. That is a tribute to the atmosphere and culture Sue built and embodied. Lindey’s has always been a special place for our family. Like so many others in our community, we go there to celebrate the special occasions in our lives. But it isn’t always about celebrating family events. It is a great place to stop by with friends, meet a new friend or be seen by the ‘who’s who’ in Columbus, all because of the atmosphere and spirit that Sue created with her gracious hospitality. Sue also taught the art of giving back. My first interaction with her on a professional and mentor level was through a non-profit, Action for Children. She was an elementary school teacher before embarking on her journey in the restaurant business, and she was very passionate about Early Childhood Education and Action for Children. Her passion for volunteer work left a lasting mark on me. She was active in the community in various other organizations as she generously gave back of her time, talent and treasure. While we are all deeply saddened by Sue’s passing, she has left an indelible mark on the Columbus community through her professional and personal endeavors. Not only does her legacy live on through Lindey’s and the community service work that she did, but also through her four children and seven grandchildren. And the countless guests and employees, who once they met Sue, became family as well. That is the very best kind of legacy to leave. •
Jane Grote Abell knows a thing or two about family business, as well. You can read more about her family’s legacy and “doing business the Donatos way” in her book The Missing Piece. For more, visit janegroteabell.com.
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Barcelona by Tommy Feisel
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Make the most of no-coast Columbus with these seafood standouts
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By Kev in J. E l l iot t
ou can’t get good seafood in this town... Yeah, yeah, we’ve heard it all before. But these five dishes prove that Columbus is trying to buck the trend with inventive dishes that prove that theory all wet.
Paella Mariscos Barcelona
The menu of Barcelona has stood the test of time and weathered Columbus’s ever-shifting palettes. If you’re craving a bounty of seafood, there’s no better refuge than the German Village mainstay. Especially considering their Paella Mariscos as the be-all, end-all feast. Their take on the Spanish rice tradition features fried soft shell crabs, lobster, shrimp, squid, clams, mussels, and plenty of spice. If you’re in search of seafood, this should have all of your bases covered.
Mussel Escabeche Lupo on Arlington
Lupo has quickly become a new gem in Columbus’s dining scene, and fans of seafood and Spanish-inspired tapas should take particular note. In addition to frequently having a variety of oysters on the half-shell, their menu is packed with fresh, delicate, seafood dishes. The mussel escabeche is relatively foreign to Columbus menus, but here it’s done to perfection. Served cold, the mussels are first cooked in a citrus and vinegar marinade, before being presented with saffron, white wine, and garlic. It’s a perfect summer delicacy, best enjoyed on Lupo’s scenic patio. • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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Guild House photo by Tommy Feisel
Grumpy’s Gumbo Frank’s Seafood
We’ve spotlighted this Hilliard fish market and their subsequent restaurant in the magazine before, but we wanted to highlight them once again. Beyond the fresh fish and shellfish you can order to-go, or their expert boils, Wil Mendez’s award-winning gumbo—chocked full of shrimp, crab, and andouille sausage—is a genuine crowd-pleaser and the only gumbo you should order outside of New Orleans. Frank’s has a definite seaside vibe, even within is confines among a west side industrial park.
Coquilles St. Jacques Windward Passage
For the ultimate seafood dining experience, there’s no better place to visit than the timespun Windward Passage. Eating in the windowless, scrimshaw filled Henderson Road fixture is akin to eating on the stern of a pirate ship. Among their staples is the Coquilles St. Jacques, served in a colossal shell, it’s a French-inspired recipe that bakes scallops into a decadent casserole of mushrooms, breadcrumbs, and cheese. Save room for all the oyster crackers between courses.
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Momma Can Cook photo by COLLINS LAATSCH
Charred Octopus Cosecha Cocina
Perhaps seafood’s trendiest dish, octopus has been spotted on menus all over town as of late. But the charred octopus starter at Cosecha is a simple dish accenting the texture and bubblegum-of-the-sea flavors of the centerpiece. Over a bed of tomatoes, pepitas, olives, and potatoes, the charred octopus is a must-order on your next visit to the Cocina.
Oysters The Guild House
We know that Cameron Mitchell gets most of his oyster press from The Pearl across the street, but you’d be wise not to overlook the Guild House’s version, served with champagne mignonette, grape granita, black pepper, and shaved grapes. It’s somehow simple and decadent at once, and tastes twice as good as it looks—which is crazy, because it’s one of the best-looking dishes you’ll see.
Gouda Grits and shrimp Momma Can Cook
Try to track down Momma Can Cook and you’ll get hip to their most popular menu item with a couple rudimentary scans of their reviews. While the culinary crowd is lighter in the seafood sea, there are food trucks everywhere, so when people are dropping lines like “one of the best meals I’ve ever gotten from a food truck,” we’re lining up to taste that gouda, tomatoes, bacon, scallions, and of course ... shrimp!
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Notes from the Top How Sonia Modes became the First Lady of piano in Columbus By Aa r o n W e tl i • P HOTOS BY BRI AN KAISER
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Sonia Modes is timeless.
It’s notable enough to make a living as a musician for almost three quarters of a century in a town like Columbus—add to that becoming a living part of the city’s history, and a fixture of classic Columbus dining. Yes, nothing quite brings people together like a meal at The Top, where Modes’ piano playing is as iconic as the decor, as tasteful as the menu. I call her timeless. She calls herself grateful. That singular adjective stuck with me during our 90-minute conversation at her East Side home. During our time together, Sonia used this word often to describe her life and more specifically her 68-year journey as a professional pianist in Central Ohio. During our conversation, I was shown photos (a who’s who of Columbus), accolades (Columbus Senior Music Hall of Fame) and proclamations (Sonia Modes Day in Bexley), and even got to play chopsticks on the Steinway Baby Grand her dad bought her as a child. I’m grateful, too. How often do you get to trade notes with a Columbus legend? She can remember hearing the piano as early as three, and was able to pick out simple melodies by ear—a gift she attributes to her violinist father. Sonia soon began taking piano lessons on the aforementioned Baby Grand, setting into motion what would become her lifelong passion. After graduating from University High School, Sonia enrolled at The Ohio State University as a music major. However, the lure of playing mid-century standards, pop, and show tunes would prove too tempting and Sonia (luckily for everyone reading this) decided to focus on her professional career.
What were you doing after your third year of undergrad? Sleeping in because you stayed out? Starting that corporate internship? Finishing your second sophomore year at Ohio State? (That’s the more important sophomore year...) After three years of undergrad, Sonia began a career as a professional pianist at small bars and restaurants in the greater Columbus area. She was nervous, but having fun and it wasn’t uncommon for her mother and/or aunt to accompany her to jobs, for both support and security. Eventually, Sonia landed a regular job at the now defunct Desert Inn, where she played her favorites (including Sinatra, Porter and Gershwin) regularly for 10 years. Immediately after that job ended, Sonia was scooped up by The Top Steakhouse where she has been consistently playing in some capacity since 1965—you know, when Lyndon B. Johnson was President. At The Top, Sonia was busy perfecting her craft and took advantage of all available opportunities to play live. During this time it wasn’t uncommon for Sonia to work a luncheon followed by a cocktail party followed by her nightly gig. Life was busy, good and uncomplicated. And then Sonia married. After five years at The Top, Sonia tied the knot and tried her hand at homemaking. However, her husband had a hectic work travel schedule and the music kept calling, so after six months she informed her husband that she was going back to work. The marriage lasted, but the homemaking didn’t and Sonia immediately found regular employment at the Grove City Holiday Inn where she was grateful to finally have the opportunity to play as part of a trio. While being a part of a trio didn’t last long, it did pay off. As fate would have it, • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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Columbus media magnate John Walton Wolfe happened to be in the crowd one particular evening and quickly stole Sonia away and slotted her for a regular gig at the Neil House hotel, where she played from 1972 until it was razed in 1980. For those unfamiliar, which included myself until this interview, the Neil House hotel was a High Street institution that catered to celebrities, politicians and other powerbrokers. Backroom deals, three martini lunches and the launching or destruction of careers were the rule, not the exception. Suddenly The Sonia Modes Trio was the name on the marquee and she had more exposure and connections than she knew what to do with. She never worried about finding employment again.
THE ART OF MATCHMAKING After the closing of the Neil House hotel, Sonia stayed true to The Top while working at other fabled Columbus clubs such as the Bexley Monk, Kahiki Supper Club, the Press Club at the Deshler Building, The Marriott Inn and even the Playboy Club, often seven nights a week. While working at these clubs, Sonia developed a following—mostly because of the music but partly because word of her matchmaking abilities began to spread. She’s introduced (all free of charge) 44 couples who would eventually tie the knot. Is she clairvoyant? No, she said with an ornery grin. She can just “see things that others can’t.” She consults the stars for this matchmaking process and upon learning I was married, immediately asked for my sign (Taurus) followed by my wife’s (Cancer). She assured me this was a good match because Cancers are adaptable even when their Taurus husbands are “little boys who never grow up.” Yeah, I’m pretty sure she’s clairvoyant.
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FULL CIRCLE AT THE TOP Music has been Sonia’s life for 68 years, so it is fitting that The Top (where Bob Hope once told her she belongs in Hollywood) is where she continues to perform. Every Tuesday (starting at 6:30 p.m.) and Saturday (starting at 7:30 p.m.), you can find Sonia behind the keys on the west wall of The Top. Here she is accompanied by lounge singers Jayne Cabral Smith, Leslie Gantener and Justin DeWolfe and surrounded by patrons at the bar around her piano. Sometimes all three lounge singers are in attendance and sometimes just one. Basically, it goes down like this: You walk into The Top, which seems like a 1950s New York Supper Club straight out of Mad Men. You either get a seat in the dining area (reservation recommended) or you get a seat at the bar, order a drink and watch as patrons from all around the restaurant shout requests for all of the old standards. The lounge singers field the requests, inform Sonia what key they would like and bam... away they go. It’s a tribute to Sonia’s legacy that her peers value her contribution to the city and to the restaurant. DeWolfe has been performing with Sonia for four years and drives the deeply religious Sonia to their performance every Saturday. She attributes her sanity and health to God and prays two hours daily. She makes sure to credit Top owners Denver and Regina Adkins for their support. Sonia also plays for fellow residents at her retirement community. Here, she is accompanied by DeWolfe and just like at The Top, they take requests. On the evening I attended, I saw rousing renditions of Moon River, Smoke Gets In Your Eyes and Dream A Little Dream of Me, among others. As much as I enjoyed the evening (it’s hard not to enjoy time with Sonia), the residents enjoyed it more as they were transported back in time to the memories only music can rouse. How long does Sonia plan on performing? “As long as God will let me,” she says. Since none of us know how long that will be, you would be well-served to get to The Top for the Sonia Modes experience. You will be treated to a classy meal, a classy evening and world-class music from a classy lady. And who knows? Maybe she can get you a date. •
The Top is located at 2891 E Main St. in Bexley. For more, visit thetopsteakhouse.com.
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App Hop A plate-by-plate date night with A&R Group Story and ph otos by Tom m y F eisel
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W
elcome back to another edition of App Hop, an idea that started off as a date night, turned into our favorite date night, and then into this series of articles for you to benefit from. What is an Appetizer Hop? Glad you asked! An App Hop is going to 3-5 restaurants and ordering small plates from the menu to share, maybe order a round of drinks, and move on to the next spot. The idea is to order an appetizer that you can’t find everywhere—something that the chef is proud of. It can take a little bit of pre-planning to pick out where you’re going to go, but it’s a great way to experience new places that you haven’t been to yet, or even established places that change their menus seasonally. With new restaurants popping up all the time in Columbus, this is a great way to tour all that the city has to offer in the culinary scene. For this edition, we’re hopping through multiple neighborhoods, courtesy of the offerings of A&R Creative Group, who over the years have not only been advocates of farm to fork, but have arguably one of the best and diverse set of restaurants and bars in the area. The Market in Italian Village, The Crest(s), Alchemy, Fourth Street Bar and Grill, and the newer Trism are all among the group’s creations. While each restaurant is unique, they all share in A&R’s mission to “foster local commerce by contributing to the local economy & food systems through strategic partnerships, innovative community-driven businesses, and environmentally sustainable practices.” That’s important because while you’re eating these beautiful plates of food, you can feel good knowing that A&R’s goal is to have broader impact on their community and regional farmers/suppliers. After all, the closer your ingredients are to the restaurant they’re being served at, the better they taste. And that’s just good for everyone!
We started the evening at The Market in Italian Village (1022 Summit St.) where Chef Stefan treated us to our first round of small plates and drinks. The Market is a unique offering in Columbus because you can come in for lunch or dinner, buy ready-made meals, or shop their fully stocked shelves and coolers of cured meats, cheese, wine and craft beer. It’s the kind of place where you want to get to know the staff and ask questions; learning about what you’re eating/drinking enhances the experience. They know their craft, and they execute it well. Chef started off strong with what may be my favorite dish I’ve had in recent memory, their stracciatella, a cheese made from stretching fresh mozzarella curds into long tubes, pulling them into strings, and then soaking them in cream. It’s light, and luxurious, and can traditionally be found as the filling of burrata. In The Market’s stracciatella dish, they serve the cheese on top of a layer of brown butter emulsion, shaved asparagus, puffed faro, black garlic, and spruce tips. Ok, so everything about the top of this dish is light, and feels like spring. That is until you get to the brown butter emulsion that has the most amazing flavor—nutty, toasty, warm and complex. It’s magical. The puffed faro adds a nice crunch of texture to the
noodle thin asparagus, and it’s also a colorful feast for the eyes, which just elevates it that much more. Next, their sunchoke turnip carpaccio, with its thinly sliced sunchoke with pickled mushrooms, cured lemon, scallion, sunchoke whipped tahini, and pepper jam, which was, well … the jam. For me, this is one of those dishes where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Sunchoke can be a versatile ingredient, but when sliced thin like this it resembles a rawish potato in texture. The flavors all make sense together, and the “bite” of the sunchoke is mellowed by the softness of the pickled mushroom. Last to come was the Le Delice De Bourgogne, a French classic triple crème cheese, similar to brie, but more pungent and flavorful. Don’t let the word “pungent” scare you off; this cheese is rich, creamy, and delicious. In other words, eat the rind, you’ll thank me later. Spread it on the waffle fries that come drizzled with Yoder Farm’s honey, and you’re all set. Oh, and did I mention that the cocktails were on point? My wife Meredith and I were happy to pass back and forth the “Ish Delish” (blended scotch, absinthe, passion fruit, lemon, apple bitters, mint) and the “Midnight in Greece” (Watershed vodka, skinos—a Greek liqueur, house pomegranate grenadine, lemon, cava, and pickled blackberry). • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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Five minutes away, we pull into Hoof Hearted Brewery and Kitchen, a partnership with the wacky brewers that occupied a Marengo hog farm, which A&R opened with them in 2016. If you haven’t driven up Fourth Street from Downtown in the past year, you’ll be amazed to see how much development has gone on in the once-barren landscape that was just north of 670. Lots of units means lots of people, and so it’s a very good thing that Hoof Hearted is there to keep them filled with excellent beer and equally good food. Meredith doesn’t have a taste for beer so I knew the food alone was going to have to carry the weight on this visit. Chef Justin did not disappoint. While she sipped on their Attitude Adjustment (frozen rosé, peach schnapps, vodka, grapefruit, strawberry syrup) I got to sip on one of their beer flights. Then, Chef brought out three apps that were delicious and extremely well-plated. Food is a multi sense experience—before you taste, you see. When someone puts this kind of effort into how their food looks, you know they have pride in what they do. Translation: it all tastes as good as it
looks. The Spring Ballsz (ya gotta love the names here) were balls of breaded ground sausage, house made sauerkraut, with mustard green puree and honey, again from Yoder Farms. The mustard puree was a great addition to the Ballsz (sorry, can’t help myself) that had just the right amount of sauerkraut to add flavor to the pork without noticing that there’s sauerkraut in them—for me, the perfect amount. The Alligator Bites were my favorite to look at, surrounded with an abstract brushing of sauce around the rim. Alligator has always reminded me of calamari in flavor, but with a more pleasant texture. It’s firm, but not rubbery the way calamari is often prepared. The Truffle & Artichoke Garlic Bread (grilled garlic-rubbed baguette, mushroom melody, truffle and ParmigianoReggiano) was fantastic with its lightly charred artichoke, and medley of mushrooms. What I really liked about this one is that it’s the perfect type of dish to share on an App Hop. Too much bread will fill you up, but splitting it will make sure you have room for more. • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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The Crest on Indianola in Clintonville—or as the A&R crew call it—the O.G. Crest—was one of A&R’s first restaurants. The second one can be found on Parsons Ave. by Nationwide Children’s Hospital. Like Hoof Hearted, I remember visiting The Crest shortly after they opened in 2012. At the time, Clintonville was ripe for a neighborhood place like this, especially on Indianola. I’ve been a fan ever since. This visit, though, reinvigorated my love for them. Tyler Minnis, now A&R’s Executive Chef, met us there to walk us through the plates we’d be salivating over. I was intrigued when he brought over their Shrimp and Grit Arancini, because one of my favorite things to make
is Shrimp and Grits, though what I make at home is a spin on the traditional favorite by substituting the grits with risotto (arancini is typically breaded deep fried risotto)—a trick I picked up from Tyler Florence in his book Inside the Test Kitchen. What made this dish different, and exceptional, was the grits were breaded and deep fried instead of risotto. Next up, Chef presented us with their cheese curds that were served on a red sauce spiked with Za’atar spices and the seasonal salad with its pickled red and green strawberries. The strawberries were tart and sweet—and when paired with the fresh basil from their own herb gardens they have in the parking lot … dang.
Never thought of doing pickled strawberries, but I guess that’s why I’m a photographer and not a chef —I’m more than happy to be a participant in what these guys and gals do on a daily basis to serve their community with artisan eats and libations. Be sure to check out one of A&R’s places next time you’re in the mood for something really, really good. Until next time, keep on experiencing all the deliciousness that Columbus has to offer—there’s plenty to explore. Cheers! • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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Jerky Boys
By T r av i s H o e w i s c h e r • P h otos by To m m y Fei sel
Brothers take columbus—and golf courses—by storm with their local snack
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att Salts (yes, that’s his name) and his band of brothers have launched a seasoned takeover of the dehydrated meat scene. Using simple local seasonings, and consulting capital city spice mongers, the team behind Charqui have graced Powell with a new local product, and the golf course-going masses have responded to the business venture with open arms— and mouths.
Where does the name “Charqui” come from? Charqui is the root word for jerky. When jerky made its way up from south America to the American Westerners the word evolved from Charqui to jerky. We chose that name because we’re trying to get back to what jerky is meant to be (with modern flavors). Jerky was simply a source of protein, salt, and a heat source; you don’t need chemicals, harsh preservatives, etc. to make jerky. Just good, clean, easy to identify ingredients combined with a high quality protein source. You’ve kept the title of “head meat slicer.” Is this the most important job in the biz? How does cut affect the final product? I kept that title because we don’t take ourselves too seriously. We like to have fun with what we do and it comes out in little ways like our titles and what we name some of our flavors. That being said, slicing our product is a very important part of the process as it determines cooking times, consistency, flavor distribution … We try to keep it within a narrow window but you are working with raw meat so there’s always challenges, especially when you’re hand slicing like we do. Tell us about your spices and flavorings selections. We actually use only local spice vendors who have helped us come up with some pretty great, custom blends. Ben at North Market Spices currently supplies four of our spice blends. The other local vendor is CaJohns in Westerville. They both are at the top of their respective games. We modeled most of our flavor profiles around traditional industry sales data. For example, Vintage is our award winning classic “original” flavor featuring a savory, peppery steakhouse style flavor. This flavor profile is an industry leader. Our Sesame Sweet is our teriyaki, sesame fusion, and a twist on a base teriyaki. Teriyaki is the number two seller in the jerky industry. Maui Ghost is our “sweet and hot” flavor profile. Then we had some fun with our Morning Buzz blend with Crimson Cup which we modeled after a coffee dusted steak. Finally, our Sunday Hangover was our “off the wall” flavor which we modeled after a Bloody Mary. 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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You said Sunday Hangover was an accident. We’d love to know how that happened... It was more of a catchy joke. We thought most people really have never seen a bloody mary jerky and there’s been a bit of an explosion with crazy Bloody Mary concoctions. We thought it would be a fun “gotcha” moment when we would explain our flavors at events. Maybe folks would laugh, try it, like it but buy something else. Turns out it’s such an interesting flavor profile people who don’t even like Bloody Mary’s love the product. Plus, it shows a bit of our fun side. Do you have fond childhood memories of jerky? Actually, just the opposite. We like to say we’re taking jerky out of the backwoods and into the mainstream. I would always eat jerky on road trips. I really remember feeling like I had to sneak into a gas station, buy a bunch of stuff, hide the jerky under the other items and hoped I didn’t get judged. We called it jerky shame. I took that feeling and hopefully created something you don’t have hide or feel bad about eating.
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Tell us about your community involvement. Two of our passions as a group, from a community involvement standpoint, are education and healthcare. There are a lot of reasons why we love education-based groups but primarily we believe it provides (and has provided us) with the foundation to our lives in nearly every aspect. We were fortunate to grow enough this year where we were in a position to support the 2nd and 7 Foundation this year. They’re local and focus on childhood literacy. In addition to education, we focus on healthcare related issues. The primary reason for this is two fold. All of the wives of Charqui Jerky ownership are nurses or nurse practitioners. We see every day how all levels of healthcare touch literally everyone. We also are lucky to have a lot of healthcare-based clients like University Hospitals in Cleveland, Promedica in Toledo, Mt. Carmel here in Columbus, Piedmont in Atlanta and many others. We try and support some of their initiatives and were lucky to team up with the Nationwide Children’s Hospital Foundation as our beneficiary for sales at the Memorial Tournament presented by Nationwide. Why is the golf course the perfect place for jerky and why have we not seen that catch on long before this? It seems like the ideal snack for such a sport… Well, a lot of guys golf and more and more women are picking up the sport and are consuming jerky. It’s extremely portable, easy to eat while golfing and provides a great source of protein and salt replenishment that is lost during a long round of golf. I have no idea why it wasn’t focused on before, but we’re glad we’re the ones that figured it out.
Charqui Jerky Co. is located 130 E. Olentangy St. Powell. For more, visit charquijerky.com. 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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STRIP MALL SURPRISE:
OVER THE COUNTER Welcome back to Strip Mall Surprise, where we identify the hidden gems that make Columbus shine. The only requirement? They have to be in a strip mall. In this edition, we will celebrate the 1950s diner culture, neighborhood gathering places and good old fashioned American fare with a modern twist. This story takes place in a defunct pharmacy and a patio happens to be involved. Don’t lie, you’re already interested. • By Aaron Wetli Ph otos by Brian KA i s er
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t’s difficult to manufacture and produce a brand-new concept with soul and depth. Some can pull off this feat and close for reasons out of their control (RIP Betty’s) and some fail to produce character but thrive regardless of product or circumstance (I’m looking at you, Easton Town Center). The world is an unfair place and opening and running restaurants can prove as daunting and exhausting as getting the local MLS Soccer Club to not leave town. Fourteen months ago, Molly Rice and her managing partners found the energy and stamina to match their vision of opening a retro diner with modern touches. Located on (way) North High Street—where Clintonville kisses Worthington, Over The Counter the neighborhood gathering place, watering hole, and restaurant is all character. The original plan was to name OTC “The Pharmacy,” as Rice and company wanted to pay homage to the Nicklaus Pharmacy, a local drug store with a fountain jerk (Google it, millennials), that was the building’s original tenant. However, the Pharmaceutical Board of Ohio didn’t think this was a good idea and fought Rice to block the name. Lighten up, Pharmacy industry. Still, OTC stays true to its roots and has centered its energy, layout, and decor around a bar that could easily pass for a fountain soda counter. This bar runs almost the entirety of the south side of the restaurant while the remaining portion of the restaurant is outfitted with retro looking tables and booths. Towards the front of the restaurant is a retro chic lounge area that 1950s hipsters would feel at home in. Behind the bar, 10 taps are available (I enjoyed a Rockmill Pilsner), nine serving craft and one tap keeping it real with PBR, as well as a fully stocked bar available to make in-house craft cocktails. The selection is impressive, and unpretentious, which is the vibe Rice was aiming for. She wants you to come in and feel at home whether you are with a group of friends, eating dinner alone, sipping a whiskey quietly in the corner, or enjoying 102
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happy hour with the regulars. Speaking of enjoying happy hour with regulars, on my particular visit I ran into neighborhood residents and OTC regulars Mike Shehata and Shelley McCoy, both of whom I occasionally claim as friends. Upon entering, both were warmly greeted by Rice who immediately grabbed a Michelob Ultra for her and a Watershed vodka and Soda for him. Soda jerk: upgraded. Who can blame regulars for coming in for the occasional happy hour when it is such a bargain? Running from 2–7 p.m. DAILY (come on Columbus bars and restaurants, get on the daily happy hour train) drink specials half-off most beers, $1 off house liquor and $4.50 select wines. Food specials start at 8 p.m. when appetizers are half off. As more regulars trickled in, we moved our party to the patio to accommodate our growing group. On our Wednesday night visit, the patio contained a family of three enjoying some quality time together, a retired couple having an early dinner, and two 30-somethings enjoying the sun and some suds. Diverse, familyfriendly, and welcome to all—just as Rice planned. For dinner, I decided to go with the Pulled Pork sandwich. Topped with crispy and juicy onion rings, the pork was succulent and tender. I subbed out chips and upgraded to the mac & cheese (the diet starts next week) which contained provolone, cheddar, swiss and cream cheeses and was topped with breadcrumbs. A nice addition to this platter was the rich and creamy coleslaw. Full disclosure: I could eat coleslaw with every meal, which according to my wife makes me the world’s oldest 41-year-old. OTC also serves brunch on the weekends. Beginning at 9:30 a.m., the building fills up quickly and it’s not uncommon to have a small wait for a table by 10:30. One reason? The homemade donuts. Another reason? The chicken and waffles. A third reason? The service, quality and ambiance. A fourth reason? You don’t need any more reasons. Lunch specials have also been recently introduced. For $7.49, you can pick two items from a list of salads, soups and sandwiches. I believe I can speak for all the north Columbus educators out there when I salute OTC for a budget- and time-friendly, yet high quality lunch. For the music aficionados in the crowd, it should be noted that Rice has started booking bluegrass bands, too. Bands play in the front lounge area and although there is no set schedule as of yet, Rice received great feedback from patrons and is looking to make live music a regularly scheduled event. I would recommend the American Mule (Tito’s vodka, lime juice, ginger beer) for an evening of enjoying local music at a new local hot spot. Speaking of local, OTC partners with local distributors whenever possible. Lucky Cat Bakery, One-Line Coffee, Petali Teas and Scherer’s Potato Chips are all represented and help OTC keep its local appeal. OTC has a little something for everyone and more restaurateurs would be well served by adopting Rice’s philosophy and commitment to quality food and drinks while simultaneously supporting and involving the local community. Get your fix for local filled at Over The Counter. And maybe your donut, prescription too.
Over the Counter is located at 5596 N High St. For more, visit overthecounterofworthington.com.
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OLD SCHOOL/ New School The best of both worlds in Columbus’s Old North By Aaron Wetli • ph otos by M eg a n L eig h B a r n a r d
W
elcome back to Old School/New School, where we pair a Columbus institution with a restaurant or bar that isn’t quite yet in the history books. Both destinations have to be within walking distance of each other and the first stop will be for dinner and the second stop for a nightcap. Park once, drink twice, support local. For this edition, we will spend the evening in the Old North neighborhood. If you haven’t heard of the Old North, don’t worry…it is just a term that self-important know-it-alls (such as myself) use to refer to the culturally rich neighborhood that connects north campus and south Clintonville. We are going to plan the perfect summer date night with a trip to Trillium for diner and a nightcap with local music at Dick’s Den. Why Not? 104
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Trillium
233 N High St. • trilliumkitchen.com Who among us has not gotten nervous about filling big shoes? Maybe you were nervous when you took over for the beloved and experienced boss? I know you were nervous when that first child came along. Two guys that had big shoes to fill are chef Bradley Balch and managing partner Michael Kulikowski. What did they have to be nervous about? Nothing … except for filling the shoes of famed Columbus restaurateur Alana Shock and revamping the Columbus culinary institution she ran for 18 years, Alana’s Food & Wine. No pressure there. In fact the only thing Balch and Kulikowski seem anxious about is becoming a part of their new neighborhood. Fitting
in in the Old North is so important that when they opened Trillium less than a year ago, they chose the name because the Trillium flower, native in Ohio forests, becomes an irreplaceable part of the habitat in which it roots. Well played. When it comes to food, Balch, who was a former coowner and executive chef at The Sycamore, puts an emphasis on quality food and working with local merchants in the community. His menu changes seasonally, but his commitment to quality does not. Balch likes to work in different disciplines and enjoys serving Asian, Classic French and South & Central American Cuisine. When pressed with the question of what to order from the menu, his answer was quick and simple: seafood. Balch, though not boastful, is proud of the fact that the seafood he serves is usually swimming in the Atlantic Ocean only 36 hours before it is served. Kulikowski, the former general manager of Tucci’s (where Balch once worked in the kitchen), was more than happy to show me around the front of the house. Much has changed and much is improved as Trillium pulls off the rare combination of staying true to its roots (get it) while branching out (If you have the time, I have the dad jokes) into the new community. First things first: the patio—tis the season, after all— remained the same size, but needed a full ground revamp, which Kulikowski and Balch did basically by themselves. Uprooting trees and laying bricks on July weekends is not easy work, but when you own a restaurant, you wear a lot of hats. The hard work paid off and the spacious and open patio provides a comfortable setting to eat dinner, relax with a drink or people watch. Which, if you have spent any time in the Old North, you know is prime people watching real estate. The inside of the restaurant is classy, cool and comfortable. A long bar runs across the northern side of the building and behind that long bar is a selection of Ohio drafts (I partook in the Four String Hilltop Heritage Lager), top shelf whiskey, bourbon, and scotch and an impressive wine collection. If you can’t find something to drink at Trillium, maybe you shouldn’t try and be a part of the neighborhood. Trillium also sports a wine room that is great for larger reservations and a large but intimate dining area that comes equipped with a beautiful original fireplace. Need to host a party of 20 or so solidify your baller status? Trillium has you covered there too, just give them a call. Now that you finished your locally sourced dinner, chose a beverage from the high quality drink selection and basked in chic dining comfort, let’s switch gears for our nightcap and walk a block to the north. •
Balch is proud of the fact that the seafood he serves is usually swimming in the Atlantic Ocean only 36 hours before it is served.
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Dick’s Den 2417 N High St. • whynotcolumbus.com
Frankly, far too few Columbusites I speak to haven’t been to Dick’s Den and when I identify them, I am tempted to never speak to these individuals again. However, those who have visited become regulars and those regulars become lifers. Why? I think the question you should be answering is Why Not? Don’t get it? Look at the neon sign in the front window. Dick’s has been keeping it low key for the last 53 years. There’s no taps. It’s not the place where you get a Manhattan or a martini (although I’m sure you could) and when I am there, my drink of choice is a bottle of Stroh’s. When in Rome, do as the German Pilsners do…that’s my motto. Walking in, it’s impossible not to see, listen to, and experience the history of the Old North. The walls are lined with generations of photos of neighborhood locals, families, and regulars. My favorite photos? Those would be the photos of people celebrating at Dick’s after the end of a now defunct Old North marathon. People sure were better looking and much cooler in the 1970s. This is also HQ for Columbus jazz, blues, and bluegrass performers. Any musician who plays these genres and is worth their salt has played at Dick’s. Most nights you can watch a local or a touring band do their thing on the intimate stage in the middle of the building. Looking for a game of pool after dinner? (This always seems to be a good idea, until one spouse gets too serious.) If so, Dick’s has a pool table in the back of the building that is great for making new friends as well as giving patrons a secluded environment to have a good time. Dick’s certainly can lay a claim for the most super-secret pool table in town. Well Dick’s, The Library and Mac’s. 106
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If your nightcap plans include chilling at a bar and talking, Dick’s has you covered there as well. Friendly and veteran bartenders, such as Krista and Barb, are always good for pointing you in the right direction for your nightcap, filling you in about Dick’s history, or telling you about other great establishments in the neighborhood. Dick’s is the kind of bar where a reputation is earned and not purchased, where neighborhood retirees drink in the early afternoon and where other neighborhood regulars drink after work. Dick’s is also the type of bar that is disappearing from this country and the kind of bar you need to support. Be a patriot, support America and go to Dick’s. If you follow through for this date night plan, and you should, you have two different, yet completely compatible and complementary Old North experiences. Get your fancy pants on and have dinner on Trillium’s patio and then go enjoy the air conditioning, pool, bar, and music at Dick’s. Columbus really has a lot to offer and if you don’t agree, you simply aren’t looking in the right places. • 614columbus.com sUMMER 2018
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Brewdog photos by COLLINS LAATSCH
FRESH TASTES Numerous new bars, breweries, or restaurants opened up in the last year, signifying a legitimate boom for the Columbus food & drink industry. These are just a few of the standouts: 108
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BrewDog
1175 N High St. • 463 W Town St. The grand opening of a new BrewDog bar isn’t announced with the tolling of bells or the cutting of a ribbon. Instead, on opening day you’ll hear the buzz of tattoo artists etching the craft beer company’s logo onto the bodies of select diehard fans. Anyone lucky—and spirited—enough to get one of these free tattoos can flash their ink at any BrewDog bar around the world to get 20 percent off their tab. The tattoo machines buzzed in April and again in May to signal the opening of the company’s second and third bars in the country. BrewDog Short North, which specializes in craft beer and pizza, opened in April. Then, not even a month later, the Franklinton brewpub cranked to life on May 11. BrewDog Franklinton is the latest addition to a block that’s becoming a craft beer destination, with Rehab Tavern, Strongwater Food & Spirits, and the Land-Grant Brewing Company huddled nearby. Unlike the pizza-centric Short North location, BrewDog Franklinton’s menu is all about burgers. You can enjoy a craft beer and a stacked burger inside by the bar, on the street-level patio, or upstairs on the breezy rooftop terrace. Opening two new bars within weeks of each other may seem like a bold undertaking, but the company isn’t done yet. “We have huge growth ambition,” BrewDog USA CEO Tanisha Robinson said. “Once we got beer moving, we’ve not only opened a couple of bars, but we have a hotel opening in August.” The hotel in question is under construction at the company’s U.S. headquarters in Canal Winchester. Each guest room will have its own beer tap, and every bathroom will house a mini-fridge to encourage guests to enjoy a beer while they shower. •
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Kai’s Crab Boil 839 Bethel Rd.
For owners Tiffany Cho and Kai Sheng, the sloppiness is all part of the experience of eating a great seafood boil. It’s a style of cooking they both grew to love long before opening the restaurant earlier this year. “It started from us wanting to eat this kind of food ourselves,” Cho said. “We didn’t have anything like that in Columbus, so we had to make our own.” The inspiration came from low-country boils common in Southern coastal states like Louisiana. “We started experimenting with different recipes and tweaking our seasonings,” Cho said. “We had family and friends over for gatherings and did boils, and people began asking when we were having our next one. It grew from there.” It grew into a business that’s been a simmering success since it opened. Kai’s Crab Boil sits in a sizable space in Olentangy Plaza on Bethel Road. The dining room is bright and open, with detailed ink drawings of crustaceans adorning the walls. “This restaurant is an extension of our own personal dining table,” Cho said. “We want our guests to feel like family when they’re here.” Perhaps you (or your kids) find all of these unique dining features a little too bold. Kai’s has you covered on that front, too. If you’d rather enjoy a more traditional meal, you can choose from a list of “fried favs” that includes baskets of wings, handbreaded shrimp, and chicken tenders served with fries. For now, Kai’s Crab Boil is only open during dinner hours. Cho says their goal is to begin offering lunch in the future, but it will probably be with a pared-down menu. She’s thinking quicker eats like po’ boys. After all, most people on lunch break don’t have time to crack through a pile of shells to extract their food. 110
Preston's photo by Megan Leigh Barnard
Preston’s Burger Shack 668 Grandview Ave.
In a very small amount of time, Preston’s: A Burger Joint, Matt Heaggans’ latest playground opened with Challah’s Catie Randazzo—Columbus kitchen royalty in her own right—went from a cultish pop-up for the burger faithful to many’s best burger in town. Let the beef(s) begin, but Heaggans’ resume is dotted with stand-out burgers that have led to this no-contest moment. It’s hard to compete with evolution. If you’ve had a burger at Flatiron or The Rossi in the last few years, they have Heaggans’ fingerprints on them. In a quick listing of his favorite Columbus burgers, both of them reappear, as does Rockmill Tavern and the Press Grill, but he stops short to name a number one. It’s equal parts humility and pure confidence in his food. But what makes the Preston’s version of a smash burger so incredibly good? “Everything is very well thought-out,” Heaggans says of his prized burger that has taken years to refine. “The way that we stack the toppings on the burger is a conversation
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... actually a long conversation. We only use American cheese. We don’t have any other cheeses. We tried out dozens of buns and settled on one specific bun. Our beef is a special blend, we get it local, and we only order so much at a time. We get what we need. The ‘special’ sauce is handmade, it takes two days to make, and it’s stupiddumb to make.” Formerly hiding out atop Three Sheets in the Brewery District, Heaggans and Randazzo have, as of last month, moved their endeavor to Woodland’s Backyard in Grandview, assuring the duo more visibility and the opportunity to experiment with their homage to junk food— and the aforementioned fast food staples. With Randazzo’s permanent Challah! inside of Woodland’s Tavern, the transition was smooth and amicable for Preston’s. In addition to table service and weekend lunch hours, they will feature new items including their take on a filet ‘o fish and a pudding du jour, to match their already indulgent “Pavlovian” menu of house funyuns, vegan Cincinnati chili dogs, and Heaggans’ decadent Nashville hot wings. “It’s well thought-out junk-food,” says Heaggans of the concept. “We spend a lot of time on it, a lot of effort. It’s junk-less junk-food.”
Short North Food Hall 1112 N High St.
It might seem like an impossible battle—does a place that hits everyone’s taste preferences even exist? It does now. One of two food hall concepts cutting ribbons in this calendar year—Cameron Mitchell has their own version on deck at the BuddDairy building in 2019—Food Hall is hitting the Short North with five local kitchens under one roof. Building off the momentum of other major cities like Denver, Chicago, and New York City with food halls, Corso Ventures—the people who brought you Short North staples like Pint House and Standard Hall— has cleared a space on High St. where patrons have the option to choose from five different local kitchens to provide for maximum variety and a chance to discover new eateries in the city—and chefs and restaurateurs have a small-scale chance to expand and experiment. The plans for the venue include weekly collaboration nights, pop-ups, and other culinary events. In the future, Food Hall could expand to a rooftop patio with another kitchen and bar, that would have year-round access. In the chilly midwestern winter, a rooftop with a view, and shelter from the storm sounds like a great way to spend a chilly evening. The developers’ vision of the future doesn’t stop there. They imagine apps that patrons can use to order food, and other techfriendly advances in their business plan. But those are all imagined evolutions as of now. For the time being, we will have to settle for multiple culinary geniuses under a single roof. •
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Lupo on Arlington 2124 Arlington Ave.
Tucked into a sleepy corner of very mild commerce, around the bend from a middle school, is Lupo: a sleek, adventurous new restaurant that brings to the glittering spires of UA a taste of the outside world. It’s not the first restaurant to occupy this former bank. (Note to self: promote the conversion of banks into other things like restaurants and art galleries, as this will almost certainly make the world a better place.) But it is the first restaurant in the neighborhood to make a significant leap away from the safe standard fare. They boast a traditional Spanish appetizer: gambas al ajillo. Three big, bouncy, butterflied prawns served in a golden pool of garlicky butter, laced with Calabrian chili peppers and a (crucial) shot of sherry. Another tapas staple to sample: fritto misto. Anyone who goes to sports bars and orders the calamari should have a pillowcase thrown over her head and be transported unwillingly via a windowless panel van to a place like Lupo that does fried seafood the right way. First of all, they get their product from Coastal Local, a premier purveyor of (actual) fresh seafood. Next, the semolina/egg white batter is made specifically to not bog the fish flesh down. The scallops are on point, and the shrimp and squid hold their own. A few key veggies provide contrast, while the ramp-infused vinegar gives everything a welcome tang. 112
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Lupo photo by Megan Leigh Barnard
Finally, try a king-sized lamb meatball, tender as they come and accompanied by a nod to northern Africa and beyond—harissa pepper jam, creamy falafel, dill yogurt, and perfectly pickled onions. At just nine bucks, this is a must for your meat course. There are cheap-but-punchy pintxo skewers and croquetas, all the way up to mic-dropper show-stoppers like the two-pound braised pork shoulder and 60-day dry-aged ribeye. It is a quality menu. Executive chef Todd Elder comes by this cuisine honestly. His eight years at Barcelona and significant tenure under Lopez at the aforementioned La Tavola have given him serious Spanish chops, but he is shooting for versatility with this menu as well. “We want to give people a taste of something they might not have had before,” Elder said. “The best part is that all we have to do is get quality ingredients and let them shine.” Bar manager Tatiana Khawaja is of the same mind, keeping “nothing American” in her wine list to encourage people to branch out. The cocktail program is far-reaching and features (as any good tapas bar should) lower ABV cocktails and aperitifs to properly enhance the dining experience. Bar specials run Wednesday to Saturday (yes, Saturday), and they’ve got some fun summer plans: rum cocktails, cigar parties … the good stuff. •
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It’s difficult for us here at (614) to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. Use the hashtag #Eat614 on twitter or instagram to put your photos on our radar. 114
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