Stock & Barrel Winter 2021 by 614mediagroup

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WINTER 2021

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

(614) PIZZA TRAIL

SHORT NORTH

FRANKLINTON

674 N HIGH ST, COLUMBUS, OH 43215 ( 380 ) 210-0197

415 W. RICH ST. / (614) 372-5983

www.yellowbrickpizza.com

@pieofthetigerofficial

BEXLEY

2376 E. MAIN ST.

BREWERY DISTRICT 940 S. FRONT ST.

CLINTONVILLE 2285 N. HIGH ST.

DUBLIN

45 N. HIGH ST.

www.harvestpizzeria.com 614NOW.COM

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CONTENTS 20

HEAT WAVE Our cover section comes complete with five different stories profiling a variety of hot food and drink (both in terms of spice and temperature) that will warm you up throughout the long winter months.

CLOSE TO THE SUB

KIND OF A BIG DILL

Icarus Sandwich Shop gives wings to the Columbus lunch scene.

From spicy garlic to sweet heat, The Crazy Cucumber is bringing both fire and flavor to their artisan pickles.

BOILING IT DOWN

SPICE GIRLS

How a hot new Cajun-style seafood boil restaurant is bringing the Columbus cuisine scene to a boil.

How one fiery Columbus hot sauce company is changing the game.

COVER PHOTO BY ALLISON GRIMES

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From the Editor PUBLISHER Wayne T. Lewis CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Lindsay Press EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jack McLaughlin

JACK MCL AUGHLIN Editor-In-Chief

HEAT WAVE

COPY EDITOR Allison Grimes CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Leonardo Carrizo, Allison Grimes, Maddie Schroeder, James DeCamp, Sarah Pfeifer CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jack McLaughlin, Melinda Green,

Is it hot in here, or is it just this issue? Seeing how the cold weather doesn’t appear to be going anywhere anytime soon, we’ve decided to heat things up a bit for our readers with a long list of warm and spicy foods to try around the Cbus. Because personally, I’ve always loved hot food. It’s difficult to say why—there’s something about the way it adds another element to the eating experience—but I’m always the first to reach for the red pepper flakes or hot sauce. Then, there’s the variety of it all: Learning about the nuances of every spicy pepper; trying all the local hot sauces— from tangy and vinegary to sweet and smokey—to find the perfect blend. And speaking of local hot sauces, our newest issue of Stock & Barrel has plenty of them. From a North Market vendor to the former Executive Chef of Watershed Kitchen & Bar who’s stepping out on his own. We’ve also profiled Sauce Boss

Gang, a pandemic-born company that reinvented its entire business model and is now thriving. If it’s hot drinks you want, we have you covered there, too, as we break down a handful of spicy but sophisticated Columbus cocktails you can warm up with this season. This issue is about keeping warm with food as well, not just burning your face off with heat. To that end, we’ve put together a list of great local pho spots, a profile of mulled wine (served hot with spices) and even a historical Creole restaurant in the King-Lincoln Bronzeville neighborhood. We also have coverage of some of our favorite new spots to try, like Icarus Sandwiches, and The Sauce Boiling Seafood Express. We're even offering coverage of a fun, and spicy, family pickle operation. This issue is bringing the heat, Columbus. So why don’t you take a seat and warm up with us.

Jaelani Turner-Williams, Melissa Braithwaite, Jim Fischer, Laura Hennigan, Mallory Arnold, Bella Czajkowski

CREATIVE DESIGNERS Emma Quinn, Willem Kern, Bryce Patterson VIDEO PRODUCER / EDITOR Austin Black MARKETING MANAGER Justynne Pride MARKETING COORDINATOR Julia Attanasio ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Meggin Weimerskirch SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Nikki Harris Mindy Wilhite BRAND MANAGER, 614 LAGER Lizzy Saunders OFFICE MANAGER Janae Brown

Questions about advertising? Scan here!

this issue on the heAT METER

Created by

(614) Magazine 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215 Office: (614) 488-4400 | Fax: (614) 488-4402 Email submissions to: editor@614now.com www.614now.com 21

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CALENDAR

Winter is coming, Columbus! Check out ways to celebrate below, and keep an eye on 614now.com and our social media for more.

Indoor winter Farmers Market Every Saturday this winter Location: Ohio History Center

Columbus Winter Beerfest January 21-22 Location: Greater Columbus Convention Center

SoupFest 2022 February 5 Location: The Valley Dale Ballroom

Restaurant Week January 24-29 Locations vary. Scan for more! 614NOW.COM

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STAFF PICKS B y S to c k & B a r re l sta f f

What foods are we keeping warm with this winter? Since this issue of Stock & Barrel is focused on warm and spicy foods to keep our temperatures up during the cold winter that’s ahead, we’ve asked our staff to pick out their favorites. Here’s what they said. Hot Wings. Extra sauce. All flats.

Janae Brown Office Manager

My homemade Buffalo tofu pizza with pepper jack cheese, jalapeños, pickles, and ranch.

Almost everything except that ultrahot sauce we used in the Stock & Barrel promo video.

Emma Quinn

Jack McLaughlin

Spicy aloo matar with rice and garlic naan.

Spicy food is terrible.

Lizzy Saunders

Bryce Patterson

Creative Designer

Jalapeños.

Justynne Pride Marketing Manager

Editor-In-Chief

Brand Manager, (614) Beer

Wendy’s spicy nuggets.

Willem Kern

Spicy jalapeño margaritas!

Creative Designer

Nikki Harris

Creative Designer

↑ That is one HOT take.

Senior Account Executive

1st Place Winner Soul at the Joseph's cocktail "Die Hard is a Christmas Movie" was the night's winner. 1oz Jim Beam Orange 1oz Effen Vodka 2oz Fresh Squeezed Orange Juice 1oz Gomme Syrup 1oz Vanilla Syrup Vegan Foamer Bartender: Trey Willis

The holidays mean different things to different people, but one thing we all get excited about each year is (614)’s annual Holiday Cocktail Competition. The event, which took place at The Joseph, rounded up 18 of the city’s best—and most festive—cocktails that keep everyone in attendance warm and merry. 1st Place: Soul at the Joseph “Die Hard is a Christmas Movie”

11/2 oz Cruzan Black Strap Rum 1/2oz Hornitos Black Barrel Tequila 1/2oz Cinnamon Simple 1oz Aquafaba 1 Dash of Chocolate Bitters

2nd Place: Asterisk Supper Club “The Root of the Problem” 3rd Place: Milestone 229 “Jim Dandy” 14

Fan Favorite The Alibi's cocktail "Cuffing Season" took the cake when it came to the crowd's favorite.

Bartender: Rachel Kaufman

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Press Play Did you know that (614) launched a new YouTube channel with some very shareable video content, including delicious food stories from Stock & Barrel? It’s true. We’re expanding our ever-growing content to include video across our web and magazine stories. Keep an eye out for more on our (614) Columbus account and on social media. In the meantime, check out the newest videos on our channel: now playing...

(614)'s Team gets lost in the sauce If you’re not a fan of eating spicy food, but you enjoy watching others suffer through some truly hot stuff, check out our latest Stock & Barrel video release. Our staff takes on a variety of Columbus hot sauces, from mild to this-shouldcome-with-a-waiver spicy. Laugh at our misery all you want, just promise us you won’t try this at home.→

NEW Tasting Columbus That aren’t many pizzerias more engrained into the Columbus food scene than Massey’s. The iconic spot, known for its thin, Columbus-style pies baked directly on an oven hearth, opened their first Grandview storefront in 1949. The rest, as the Central Ohio pizza lover says, is history. This episode of “Tasting Columbus” takes a behindthe-scenes look inside Massey’s Gahanna location, so you can see how some of the city’s favorite pies are made for yourself. ↓

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WHAT 'S YOUR RECIPE? Sweet (Heat) Corn JACK MCL AUGHLIN Editor-In-Chief Our Editor-In-Chief shares his go-to movie night snack, but with his personal twist! YUM SCALE

♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥

It is such an easy recipe that anyone can make! I love spice so I tend to add more cayenne than my wife likes. Grab your favorite popcorn, and mix up this delicious spin on a classic!

SPICE SCALE

INGREDIENTS 1 Bag of your favorite popcorn 1/2 tbs Cayenne 1/4 tsp Cumin 1/2 tbs Honey (or Hot honey for extra kick!) to taste, salt and pepper honestly...most of this is to taste, so whatever you enjoy :)

INSTRUCTIONS

Cook up your popcorn to desired level Toss the popped corn in cayenne, cumin, and pepper Top with honey and salt DIVE IN!

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#EAT614 It’s difficult for us here at Stock & Barrel to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. Use the hashtag #Eat614 on twitter or instagram to put your photos on our radar.

@breakfastwithnick

@donnasdeliciousdozen

@vegfoodie614

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@fukuryuramen

@ryeriversocial

@eatinginthe614

@kolacherepublic

@f0o0dbaby

@dough_mama

@elsegundocolumbus

@hoofheartedbreweryandkitchen

@addellas614

@ryeriversocial

@lisaeatsanything

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Icarus Sandwich Shop gives wings to the Columbus lunch scene By Laura Hennigan / Photos by Leonardo Carrizo

↓ The Italian-ish sandwich from Icarus

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↑ Menus at Icarus Sandwich Shop

“Don’t pursue another concept,” Lauren Culley, who co-owns the popular Columbus bakery and coffee shop Fox in the Snow with her husband Jeff Excell, said jokingly to him once. “It will be your icarus.” While the effect it has on Excell remains to be seen, it turns out a new concept from the duo was exactly what Columbus had been waiting for: A one-of-a-kind sandwich shop featuring a handcrafted menu that takes flavors to the next level. After finding success with Fox in the Snow, the two co-founders were ready to try something new. “It’s really exciting for us,” said Culley. “One of the things we learned from Fox is that Columbus loves eating out, it's full of foodies, and our customers are very loyal. It's an amazing place to open a business.”

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↓ Icarus co-owners Lauren Culley and Jeff Excell

Added Excell, “Fox in the Snow taught us that people love sandwiches, so when this space became available it made sense. The timing was right for us because we had the team, we had the infrastructure, we had the capital. Even in the middle of COVID, it felt like something we could do.” Inside the 110 year-old Italian Village building it calls home, Icarus’ small menu has been carefully curated, with meats brined in-house, plus homemade breads and sauces. Diners can also find made-fromscratch pickles, lemonade, and even chips with dip. Culley wanted customers to know how intentional every aspect of the menu is. “From the combination of ingredients to the cross-section when you open a sandwich, we’re really proud of what the kitchen is putting out.”

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" Don't pursue another concept. It will be your

↑ Interior shot of Icarus

Her favorite sandwich is the Italian-ish, while Excell landed on the Roast Pork after much deliberation. And for those seeking some heat, the Spicy Sopressata features layers of salami, hot honey, and goat cheese. Customers can also cool down with a cup of soft serve, which Culley said has been a surprise hit. “If one person orders it and I walk it through, five more people then order it,” She said. Their ice cream rotates through a variety of flavors, such as pineapple-vanilla, and comes topped with a shortbread cookie from Fox in the Snow. Icarus’ doors open at 10:30 a.m. daily and they typically stay open until the eatery is sold out, so plan your visit in advance and be sure to have a few choices in mind. And if you have to wait in line for a bit, you might as well just chalk it up to part of the experience. “We don’t want to serve anything we aren't proud of. There is so much care put into each sandwich, it’s hard to make anything in bulk,” Excell said. “So know that when you do get a sandwich, it’s worth waiting for.” Learn more at icarussandwichshop.com

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↓ Packaged pickles ready to be enjoyed

From spicy garlic to sweet heat, The Crazy Cucumber is bringing both fire and flavor to their artisan pickles. → By Jack McLaughlin Photos by Allison Grimes

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" " myself... I DECIDED TO T RY IT

ike so many things in the year 2021, It started with a TikTok. For weeks, Katie Varga—co-owner of the Johnstown-based gourmet pickle vendor The Crazy Cucumber—had seen others create ranch-flavored pickles on the popular video platform by mixing seasoning packets into brining liquid. And then it was her turn. “I decided to try it myself,” she said. “But pretty quickly I learned that if pickles don't look pleasing, people don’t buy them. So you don’t just dump a bunch of packets in, because it’s going to end up green and murky." In fact, Varga once tried to launch a line of Cajun pickles using a similar method to infuse them with flavor. While they turned out to be delicious, they ended up appearing far from it. “Honestly, they looked like swamp water,” she said. “They never made it through the testing phase.” It appears with her ranch pickles, at least, that Varga discovered the proper balance, as it’s now their top-selling variety. Katie Varga, Co-owner of The Crazy Cucumber →

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↓ Fully pickled cucumbers marinating in flavor

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Just like her leap of faith into ranch, Varga took a similar plunge opting into the pickle game full-time several years back. When the business launched in 2014 (after Varga’s father, Bill, took up pickling), Katie was still a full-time nurse. After business picked up, she quit her healthcare job in 2017, and it’s been all pickles ever since. “I don’t think any of us imagined that The Crazy Cucumber would turn into something this big, into a full-time thing,” she said, noting the business is a family affair as well. “My dad still helps out, my mom does HR and accounting work for us, even my cousins pitch in at markets.” And while ranch might be the hot topic in pickle flavors today, The Crazy Cucumber also offers a wide variety of other flavors and styles. What they’re known for, in fact, is an array of spicy pickles. This includes their extra hot garlic (made with jalapeño and habanero), flaming dill (infused with chili oil), horseradish, and sweet heat, which blends candy-sweet pickles with cauliflower, pearl onions and jalapeño.

" "

↑ Pickled vegetables that are also offered by The Crazy Cucumber

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Even though many of their spicier options pack a punch, Varga never plans to make something hot just for the sake of it. “What we learned about spicy is that the pickles have to be tolerable,” she said. “We’re never going to just sacrifice flavor for heat.” Available at the Worthington and Chillicothe Farmers Markets (as well as through their website), The Crazy Cucumber is never going to be a big-box brand. Varga acknowledges that, and notes she doesn’t want to become one, either.

↓ Packaging orders at the Worthington Farmers Market

She’s happy finding a middle ground, and making a product people love. “We always want to come out with something that’s unique,” Varga said. “You can go to a store anytime and get a lot of different pickles, but we wanted to do something that you can’t get every day.” ♦

To learn more and order pickles yourself, visit the-crazycucumber.com

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BOILING IT D O W N How a hot new Cajunstyle seafood boil restaurant is bringing the Columbus cuisine scene to a boil. By Mallory Arnold Photos by James DeCamp

everal years back, Kyler Smith was sitting in a seafood boil restaurant, paying $80 for a single meal that took far too long to arrive at his table. He’d had it. So what did he do? Instead of writing an angry letter to corporate or confronting the manager, Smith decided to take things into his own hands. →

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↓ Protien options offered at The Sauce Boiling Seafood Express

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He opened his very own restaurant in response. The Sauce Boiling Seafood Express, which first opened in Cleveland in 2019, is his take on the Cajun seafood boil, a culinary tradition that features corn, potatoes, sausage, and the diner's choice of seafood and sauce. The Sauce offers bowls if you’d like to play it safe, and traditional boil bags, which Smith cautioned can get a bit messy. “It’s a meal meant for the adult who wants to eat with your hands and enjoy the messiness of it,” Smith said. But unlike the restaurants he’d been to before, Smith didn’t want customers to have to wait for fresh, delicious seafood. “It’s fast casual,” he said. “You can come in for lunch and have the same fresh quality food, but you don’t have to wait too long. You’re in and out the door.” This new twist on the traditional seafood boil also lends itself to more options and customization for customers: Protein choices include everything from king crab and lobster to sausage and mussels. “You can mix and match every combination you want.” Smith said.

↑ A boil bag ready to be served

↓

A le mp co

S ted

au l bow ce

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One of the most pivotal (but often-overlooked) components of a good seafood boil, according to Smith, is its sauce. A glance at his restaurant’s name will confirm his stance on this, as will the fact that the very first thing Smith did to prepare for his new restaurant was create his very own sauce recipe. And as fate would have it, he nailed it, his own sweet Cajun sauce. And on the first try, too. “I found the recipe for one of my first sauces and perfected it, made it to my liking,” Smith said. “I’d seen what someone else at a boil restaurant did and I mimicked it with my own taste palate. I hate science and hate math, but I executed the measurements at the perfect level.” Thus, The Sauce Boiling Seafood Express was created, specializing in the fast and

delicious boil bags Smith couldn’t find elsewhere. In just over two years of operations, the eatery had established three locations: a pair in the Cleveland area, and one in Akron. And this fall, Smith launched The Sauce’s largest storefront yet, right here in Gahanna. It opened alongside a three-day celebration featuring games, a petting zoo, and even bouncy castles. But don’t let all the fanfare confuse you, because according to the young restaurateur, the best for Cbus is yet to come. “Our grand opening was amazing. The line was outside of the door all day long,” he said. “We’re bringing big flavors, we’re bringing big things to Columbus.”♦ To check out the full menu, visit www.thesaucebse.com

WE’RE BRINGING BIG FLAVORS, WE’RE BRINGING BIG THINGS TO

CO LU MB U" S

↑ An employee topping off the bowl with extra sauce

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↓ Sauce flows out of the bottle making a splash

LocAlized

burn Six Central Ohio hot sauce brands putting Columbus on the map. By Laura Hennigan Photos by Allison Grimes

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Believe it or not, we already have all the heat we could possibly need to spice up our food right here in Central Ohio. In addition to the city’s bustling food scene, Columbus is also home to a wide variety of top-notch hot sauces. And from flaming-hot to fermented and flavorful, here’s a list of local sauce purveyors to chase away that winter chill.→

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Priding themselves on artfully concocted products, the North Market staple Flavor & Fire features a line of hot sauces, along with salsas and condiments, many of which are inspired by and named after the City of Columbus. Check out the more mild and flavorful Columbus Black Garlic, or take on the imposing Crybaby 6—a furiously-hot sauce packing six million Scoville units per serving—if you dare. WINTER 2021

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HAFF’S HOT SAUCE UJJO

BLACK CAP FLAVOR & FIRE 38

Former Executive Chef Jack Moore has stepped away from Watershed Kitchen & Bar to follow his passion. And that passion is Black Cap, a freshly fermented, unpasteurized, vegan hot sauce, and the first brand from Ruffled Feather Ferments, his official LLC. Equal parts savory, spicy and funky, Moore created Black Cap with fresno chilies, garlic, ginger, lime and chia seeds. With zero additives and more flavor than fire, it’s a great topping for everything from pizza to chicken wings.

Most people wouldn’t think to add strawberries, kiwi, honey and basil to a hot sauce, but most people aren’t Haff’s. With flavor-forward profiles using locally sourced ingredients, Haff’s Hot Sauce is easily recognized by both its unique blends and distinctive bottle art. Choose from milder versions, including Trippy Pickle and Maine Squeeze, or go for broke with Hot Tropic and More Cowbell.

Hot sauce designed for (not made from) coffee that’s also delicious on food? Ujjo has you covered. With a concept created on a dare, owner Lauren D’Souza crafted her own recipe, launched a Kickstarter campaign, and now sells her hot sauce for coffee all over the world. Choose from sauces designed for both dark and light roast coffee, or a sampler pack to elevate your morning brew. And then throw some on your eggs, bacon and hash browns for good measure.

SAUCE BOSS GANG FARTLEY FARMS

If you have a bold mind and are ready to taste something a little wild, consider joining the Sauce Boss Gang. The brand seeks to inspire confidence and promote the infusion of wild flavors in both food and drinks. Find their sauces on the menu of local partners including Gallo’s on High and Buckeye Bourbon House, or shop online for flavors like Granada (with Spanish chipotle pepper) and La Jefa (featuring garlic and scorpion pepper).

With names like Ginger Reaper and Scorpion Garlic, Fartley Farms is crafting small-batch hot sauces packed with heat from peppers they grow themselves. And if you want to try before you buy, head to Atlas Tavern and order some wings coated with one of their flavors, or scope out their sample tray at the Powell Farmers Market. Their website also features an extensive list of recipes, perfect for crafting your own spicy dishes at home. 614NOW.COM

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INNER

FIRE

How one chef and restaurant help carry the torch for Creole traditions and historic Black-owned businesses in the King-Lincoln Bronzeville neighborhood. By Jaelani Turner-Williams Photos by Sarah Pfeifer

↑ Henry Butcher Sr., Owner and founder of Creole Kitchen

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A Haitian descendent and Louisiana transplant, Creole Kitchen founder Henry Butcher Sr. aspired to trace his southern roots through cooking when he first opened his restaurant in February 2006 in the heart of King-Lincoln Bronzeville. Ever since, the eatery has long been cherished for its multigenerational hospitality and ability to capture the spicy heart and soul of traditional Creole fare. Born in Shreveport, Louisiana before moving to the Hilltop area of Columbus in 1959 as a teenager, Butcher’s early years were often spent capturing his family’s culinary heritage in the kitchen. Through his unique perspective on cooking, he recalls his family’s numerous Creole dishes.→

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modern American cuisine, he repurposed menu recipes with a homegrown Louisiana flair, much to the enjoyment of his fellow chefs. “At 16, I worked in my very first restaurant named Florentine Restaurant located on West Broad Street, where I washed the dishes and cleaned all the equipment. Chef Florentine— who came from Italy and spoke very broken English—always made marinara sauce and I would always love to taste the sauce and then go home and try to duplicate it,” Butcher said. “One day we were talking and I told him that I could make that sauce. I made it, he tasted it and told me that I was no longer a dishwasher, [but] a prep cook.” As there were few local Creole restaurants in Butcher’s youth, he tested out dishes

↑

Fla vo rfu l ja mb

ala

“My family were farmers; we grew our own vegetables and raised the chickens and pigs that were going to be eaten. My grandmother—who kept me tied to her apron strings while in the kitchen—is where I learned how to make roux, peel shrimp and descaled many types of fish,” Butcher said. “One of my favorite recipes that I took from her is red beans and rice, because the flavor that she gave it was like no other. It gave me that love of cooking.” While Butcher was always motivated to spread Creole cuisine, the first 40 years of his career were spent as a chef in central Ohio establishments including Tony’s Italian Ristorante in the Brewery District and the now-defunct Ollie's Grandview Inn. Although Butcher cooked Italian and

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njo yed be e

ffee r eady to

↓ Et o u

at Michael Oliver’s in the Delaware Hotel, from spicy and flavorful jambalayas, to gumbos and etouffee. The legacy of Butcher’s original dishes continue to thrive at Creole Kitchen, with the restaurant’s signature jambalayas with seafood and chicken to thickened, savory gumbo. As food enthusiasts turn to heartier, warming dishes in the winter months, Butcher relies on one essential ingredient for the perfect gumbo. “It would definitely be the roux, which I learned from my grandmother, that gives it that earthly flavor. If the roux is not right, then it's not right,” he said. Creole Kitchen also boasts its own line of in-house seasonings, from gumbo powder to shellfish boil, all

of which make the restaurant a staple in the historically Black neighborhood of King Lincoln-Bronzeville. Once a popular hub for Black-owned businesses from the Macon Hotel and Pythian Theater in the early to mid-20th century, the neighborhood’s vibrancy lives on through continuing familyrun businesses like Creole Kitchen. “Bronzeville has a rich history of African-American people. Back in the day, it thrived off African-American businesses from dry cleaners, restaurants, churches and theaters,” Butcher said. “It was a very jazzy area and can be again, which is our style.” To learn more, visit Creolekitchen.biz

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↓ A bartender from The Bar at Echo Spirits pours a drink

COCKTAILS WI

KICK Your guide to a handful of local cocktails that are equal parts spicy and sophisticated. By Melinda Green Photos by Allison Grimes

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↑ Nada Mangonada from The Bar at Echo Spirits

While we love a good jalapeño margarita from time to time, there are also occasions when we want to class things up, while still keeping it spicy. Well, that’s what we’re bringing you: premium cocktails that pack tons of flavor with a decent punch of heat. So while these drinks might not bring the searing heat of ultra-hot peppers or finish-this-dish-in-five-minutes-withoutwater challenges, we’ve balanced things out by leaning into our sophisticated side, bringing you local cocktails that are both sassy and classy. If you’re craving complexity, head to Rooh for a Mango Mule. Don’t let the name deceive you—this is no everyday concoction in a copper cup. Made with mango murabba (preserves), chat masala, and Indian chili powder, it’s a mule rich with heat, curry spice, and a generous slab of mango garnish. It’s a treat for the eyes, as well, served in a ceramic cup whose golden stripe matches the drink inside. →

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But maybe you want something more conventional. Try an Up Your Alley at Rye River Social.The Luxardo cherry and sweet vermouth say "Manhattan," but the smoky Mezcal and green chile vodka say something else entirely. It’s fairly mild, but it still brings a bite along with its intriguing mix of flavors. Or warm up with a Fireside Chat at DENMARK. It’s not on the winter menu, but something similar is still a possibility as a custom request—spicy, smoky, sweet, and truly reminiscent of a cozy evening around the fire (or the radio, as history would have it). For an adventure, go for a Nada Mangonada at The Bar at Echo Spirits. It's a high-end tequila mango slushy, whose straw is wrapped in chile-chamoy paste, like fancy fruit leather. Let the paste slowly dissolve in the drink for a mild fire-and-ice effect, or tear off a bite for a nice sting, and douse it with the frozen drink.

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" "

...THE SECRET LIES IN STRIKING THAT DELICIOUS,

FLAOVRFUL BALANCE.

Frozen drinks not your thing this time of year? While winter swirls outside, dream of summer with a Cucumber Jalapeño Margarita at Forno. More chile-pepper than cucumber, it's sweet and vegetal, with a good lingering bite on the tongue. The lightly salted rim complements the jalapeño simple syrup and dash of cucumber bitterness. These all prove that you don’t need to ruin a perfectly good cocktail by making it mind-numbingly spicy—the secret lies in striking that delicious, flavorful balance.

For more details on featured drinks, visit each bar’s website. Or even better, go try one! :)

← The Mango Mule from Rooh

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over

mulling

Often overlooked, mulled wine is a fine way to stay warm in winter while enjoying your favorite bottle of wine. By Jim Fischer Photos by Allison Grimes

Alcohol, by nature, warms you up even when served at room temperature or chilled. But that doesn’t mean your favorite drink can’t be made even cozier during the winter months. So as you mull over ways to turn up the heat this season, remember that mulled wine (served hot with spices and sometimes even fruit) is a deliciously simple way to add spice and temperature to your wintertime table. → 48

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↓ Trio of different mulled wine types

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AT-HOME RECIPE FROM DAVE CROSBY AT PLUM RUN WINERY

1 750-ml bottle of red wine 2 small or 1 large orange 1 tsp. honey 2 cinnamon sticks 3 star anise 4 whole cloves Clean and slice the orange(s) into wheels. Place all ingredients in a crockpot. Heat for 15-30 minutes, not allowing to boil. Optional: once hot, add ¼ c. brandy to boost the alcohol content. To serve, garnish with another orange wheel and a few whole cranberries.

Mulled wine with cinnamon and apple →

Perhaps most associated with Victorian England, mulled wine has actually been around much longer; it boasts many names (gluhwein in German, glögi in Finnish, for example) and even more recipes. “[Mulled wine] is often associated with good health, warmth and happiness,” Plum Run Winery partner and vintner Dave Crosby said. The Grove City winery (also brewery and restaurant) adds a mulled wine recipe to its menu each holiday season, alongside an alsopopular hot hard cider. Wyandotte Winery coowner and winemaker Robin Coolidge concurred. “Mulled wine is a warm, sweet, fun way to enjoy wine when it is cold outside,” he said. “Mulled wine

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fits into our overall philosophy about wine. Wine should be fun. It is about enjoying family, food, and friendship. Mulled wine is just another way to make that happen.” Despite there being many recipes, most are variations on a single theme, Crosby said. Of course, when making mulled wine, it all starts with the wine. “Fruit-forward reds like a Merlot or a Cabernet blend are the most popular choices,” Coolidge said. “You want a wine with that fruit flavor that’s not too intense in terms of alcohol. We prefer a low tannin red because sometimes tannins can get a little bitter when warmed,” Coolidge and Crosby said white wines can be used for mulling as well, suggesting light-

bodied, fruit forward whites such as a Pinot Grigio or even a fruit wine such as an apple wine. Both winemakers offered suggestions from their own work to use as a base. Coolidge suggested Wyandotte’s Our Heritage Carmenere/Malbec blend, Crescendo Pinot Noir or Statehouse Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot blend. From Plum Run, Crosby offered the Embers Cabernet blend, Merlot Reserve, Solstice Carmenere/Malbec blend or the Equinox dry red. As for spices, both Coolidge and Crosby said mulling to taste is always foremost, but that cinnamon sticks, cardamom, cloves and star anise are gotos. Prepackaged mulling spices are available at many stores, including Wyandotte’s northeast

Columbus winery. Whole spices, as opposed to powdered, are best, Crosby said. He recommended fresh fruit as well, although dried orange peel is fine—just make sure your prepackaged mix includes it. The process after this is simple: Heat the entire mix in a crockpot until hot-but-not-boiling (boiling “drives off the alcohol,” Crosby said). Brandy, to up the alcohol content, can be added to the mix or to the glass, along with fruit garnishes including oranges and cranberries, and even honey or maple syrup for sweetness The result? Like a warm, weighted blanket, only with wine. To learn more, visit wyandottewinery.com or plumrunwinery.com

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p ho f

r u o

f or Four Columbus pho destinations to help conquer the cold. By Melissa Braithwaite Photos by Maddie Schroeder

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Lan Viet ho from arm p ↓W

Those satisfying, slurpy noodles. The aroma of the fragrant broth. A delicious and comforting cold-weather warm up. Yes, we are talking about pho, the ultimate Southeast Asian comfort food. Pho (pronounced “fuh”) is a traditional Vietnamese noodle soup consisting of broth, herbs, beef or chicken (these are the most typical but a wide range of proteins show up in the dish), and rice noodles.

And with pho, it’s all about the broth, which boasts a complex, umami flavor. Combined with the soup’s accoutrements—which are traditionally basil, bean sprouts, lime and jalapeño to add on top—the result is a warming meal with a fresh, flavorful crunch. Lucky for us, Columbus has several incredible Vietnamese restaurants, so we’ve put together a list of great spots for you to get full on pho and warm up at the same time. →

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The perfect bite of Lan Viet's pho ↑

LAN VIET NORTH MARKET DOWNTOWN (COLUMBUS); NORTH MARKET BRIDGE PARK (DUBLIN)

HUONG VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT 1270 MORSE RD., COLUMBUS

A long-term tenant of the North Market’s Downtown location, this traditional northern Vietnamese restaurant recently expanded to Dublin’s North Market Bridge Park. Its growth is a testament to its food; with pho flavors including steak, chicken, shrimp, meatball and tofu, you really can’t go wrong. Lan Viet’s bahn mi and rice noodle bowls are also noteworthy.

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This Columbus staple has been bringing its traditional pho noodles to the people since 2005. Huong, the owner’s first name, means “fragrant,” which is the precise word that comes to mind when walking through the restaurant’s doors. Let them know to prepare your pho to go (for eating at home, at the workplace or in the car) and they will make sure your soup is packed to perfection. 614NOW.COM

Get it whil e it’s hot! ♦

PHO ASIAN NOODLE HOUSE & GRILL 1288 W. LANE AVE., COLUMBUS

If variety in your pho is what you are after, Pho Asian Noodle House is your best bet. With pho flavors ranging from shrimp to roasted duck, it’s a great place to savor everything pho has to offer. Try their special combo soup—a rich and meaty pho with rare, thin eye-of-round, meatballs and beef frank—if you’re ready for a real treat.

MI LI CAFE 5858 EMPORIUM SQ., COLUMBUS

Tucked away into a strip mall in northeast Columbus, Mi Li Cafe is a hidden gem. Well-known among local pho enthusiasts, this cafe features many variations of the traditional noodle soup. Want it with tripe? How about tendons? Meatballs? Rare or well-done beef? This is the place for advanced phophiles who want to customize their experience. Grab a bubble tea while you are here as well; the selection is incredible.

Dishes erved at Mi Li Cafe ↓

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Girls How one fiery Columbus hot sauce company is changing the game → ↑ Nicole DiTommaso and Victoria Hyder, Co-owners of Sauce Boss Gang

By Bella Czajkowski Photos by Leonardo Carrizo 614NOW.COM

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↓ Wings make the perfect pair for any Sauce Boss Gang sauce

auce Boss Gang specializes in hot sauce, but the company’s wide-reaching impact is heating up the entire Columbus restaurant scene. Nicole DiTommaso and Victoria Hyder established Sauce Boss Gang in 2019. Their collection of sauces was finalized only three months before the onset of the pandemic, requiring that they get creative with launching their products — taking to restaurants instead of shelves. “We were going to take a traditional path of going straight to retail. That is not the case any longer. We went direct to restaurant wholesale and developed this entire program that did not exist, or was not in the plans at all,” Hyder said. The pair worked with DiTommaso’s connections in the restaurant industry to create ticketed events, where they served four-course meals incorporating the hot sauces — which range from savory to sweet 60

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to smoky, boasting a variety of heat levels. When they received positive feedback about these events from customers, the pair ventured further into restaurant partnerships. Now, DiTommaso and Hyder routinely work with kitchen and bar staff to create new menu items incorporating their sauces. Ultimately, the pair said their sauces are an ingredient, not just a condiment. Recently, the Sauce Boss Gang has developed new menu items in collaboration with Buckeye Bourbon House. Customers can look for the sauces in the new Smoke City margarita, Buckeye Bourbon House burger and Sauce Boss Gang wings. Through their collaboration with restaurants, Hyder said Sauce Boss Gang was also able to aid the restaurant industry as it took a hit amid COVID-19. →

↓ Victoria Hyder, Co-owner displays Coffin hot Sauce

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“We leave them the sauce and the chefs kind of experiment in the kitchen. They get to create new menu items that are Sauce Boss Gang menu items,” DiTommaso said. “That helps obviously excite existing customers, you know, something cool and wild is coming to the restaurant. But it also brings new business.” The founding duo has also served a mentorship role — bringing out passion and creativity in chefs and bartenders. “You reinvigorate the creativity behind the bar and in the kitchen, and allow the culinary artists to really bring something completely new and different to the table,” DiTommaso said. Although the pandemic created numerous challenges, DiTommaso and Hyder said the way their business model pivoted throughout it allowed them to emphasize the company’s belief that with hard work, anything is possible. “It made us really go back to the heart of the culture of the company,” Hyder said. “We embarked on this with self-belief and basically, a dream.”

WE VIEW SAUCE BOSS GANG AS BEING INDEPENDENT,

"fun

AND

...

↑ Nicole DiTommaso, Co-owner shows how to use sauce in a drink

Hyder said she suspects the company may have actually grown even faster in the pandemic than it would have otherwise, since partnering with restaurants allowed them to put a personal touch on their impact in the community that retail sales may not have permitted. Looking forward, Sauce Boss Gang hopes to develop new products and continue growing its restaurant partnerships. In 2023, DiTommaso said the pair hopes to open its own restaurant. When that time comes, they’ll look to harness the brand’s personality and bring it to life in its own space. “We view Sauce Boss Gang as being independent, wild and fun. But really, it’s about nurturing talents in the people that we’re working with and seeing potential where others may not,” DiTommaso said. ♦ ↑ Burgers and drinks paired with hot sauce

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To learn more, visit saucebossgang.com

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