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SUGGESTIONS WHEN SHOPPING FOR FENCING PG 8 | HELP YOUR SHRUBS LOOK THEIR BEST PG 10 | TIPS FOR FIRST TIME VEGETABLE GARDENERS PG 12
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Many lawns contain a mixture of the roughly one dozen types of different grasses. According to the lawn care experts at Scotts®, knowing which type of grass they have in their yard can help homeowners more effectively manage and care for their lawns. But with so many lawns containing a mixture of grasses, how can homeowners know exactly what’s making up that green carpet in their yards? Scotts® notes that lawns typically fall into one of two categories: warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses. Warm-season grasses are those that thrive in regions where the climate tends to be especially warm, such as the southern United States. Cool-season grasses are those that are at their best in climates that experience extreme temperature fluctuations. For example, cool-season grasses are most likely to be found in the northern United States, as much of this area of the country experiences cold winters and warm, and in some places very hot, summers. Homeowners who are uncertain about which type of grass they have can consult a lawn care professional for advice. Homeowners who learn which type of grass is in their yard can use that information to determine how frequently they should mow and water their lawns and which type of fertilizer is best-suited to their lawns. w
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Tips to successfully grow tomatoes .................................... 4 How to prevent crabgrass................................................... 5 Think inside the box with raised bed gardening.................6 Suggestions when shopping for fencing.............................8 Help your shrubs look their best.......................................10 Tips for first time vegetable gardeners...................................11
Linda Corwine McIntosh CSU Advanced Master Gardener 1996 Colorado Master Gardener of the year Master Composter ISA Certified Arborist Commercial Pesticide Applicator Ouray County Weed Board Member
Tips to successfully grow tomatoes
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Slicing into the first tomato of the season is a much anticipated moment for gardeners. Tomatoes are among the most popular fruit or vegetable plants grown in home gardens. Much of that popularity may be credited to the fact that red, ripe tomatoes have a delicious, juicy flavor that serves as the basis for all sorts of recipes. And since tomatoes can just as easily be grown in a full backyard garden or in a container on a patio or balcony, tomatoes appeal to gardeners regardless of their living situations. While tomatoes are relatively easy to grow, they are prone to certain problems and pests. Knowledge of what to expect when planting tomatoes and how to start off on the right footing can help produce a season’s worth of delicious bounty. • Wait until after the last average frost date. Tomatoes can be grown from seeds outdoors in warm areas, but tomato gardeners often find success starting seeds indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost date. Gradually introduce seedlings to the elements for a few hours each day, increasing the duration of time outside. Then they can be transplanted outdoors when temperatures are consistently over 60 F. • Choose a sunny spot. Tomatoes love to soak up
sunlight, according to The Home Depot. Place the plants in a sunny spot so they can thrive. • Space out plants. The experts at Better Homes and Gardens say to leave anywhere from 24 to 48 inches between plants to accommodate for growth and ensure the plants will not get stunted. • Plant deeply. Tomatoes tend to root along their stems. If transplants are long and lean, dig a trench and lay the stem sideways in the dirt, and then bend the top of the plant upward. Snip off the lower branches and cover with soil up to the first set of leaves. This will produce extra root growth and stronger, more vital plants. • Give the plants support. Tomato cages or stakes can help keep the leaves and fruit from touching the ground, which can cause rot and, eventually, death to the tomato plant. • Lay down a layer of mulch. Tomatoes grow best when the soil is consistently moist. Mulch can help retain moisture from watering and rain. Mulch also will help prevent soil and soilborne diseases from splashing on the leaves and plants when it rains. While you amend the soil, make sure that it drains well and is slightly acidic. • Prune away suckers. Tomatoes produce “suckers,” which are leaves that shoot out from the main stem. Removing these leaves promotes air circulation and keeps the plant’s energy focused on growing fruit. Tomatoes are a rich addition to any garden. A few simple tricks can help even novice gardeners grow delicious tomatoes.w
How to prevent crabgrass Few things can give a home exterior that sought after wow factor as well as a nicely maintained lawn. A lush green landscape is a great way to show pride in home ownership and improve curb appeal. As many homeowners know, lawns are under constant attack. The elements are rarely easy on lawns, and watchful eyes must always be kept open for other problems that can plague a lawn, including crabgrass. Crabgrass can be a formidable adversary in the summer months. According to the Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences, crabgrass begins as seeds. These seeds germinate in spring or early summer. While crabgrass dies after the first hard frost in fall, crabgrass seeds remain dormant in winter, and the seeds then grow again in the following spring when ground temperature warms up. Without action to prevent crabgrass seeds from germinating, homeowners will likely end up with patches of crabgrass throughout their lawns every summer.
The healthier a lawn is, the harder it is for unwanted grasses like crabgrass to thrive. The following are a handful of strategies that can promote a healthy lawn and make it more difficult for unsightly crabgrass to establish itself in the months ahead. • Keep grass at a consistent length, and don’t cut too low. Maintaining a consistent length of grass by mowing at regular intervals can make it hard for crabgrass to thrive. Crabgrass requires ample sunlight to germinate, so grass that is not cut too short may keep crabgrass from growing in. Of course, grass should not be allowed to grow kneelength, either. By raising blades to the mowing height appropriate for their type of grass, and mowing at regular intervals so the grass remains at that height through the summer,
homeowners can promote healthy lawns and make it harder for crabgrass to germinate. • Never cut too much of the blade off of the grass. When mowing, don’t cut too much of the blade off the grass with each cut, even if the grass seems especially long. As noted, cutting too low allows sunlight to reach crabgrass seeds. But cutting too much off the blade, even if the grass is still high after a mow, can injure the grass. Injured grass can make lawns more vulnerable to weeds and crabgrass. • Apply a pre-emergence herbicide. Pre-emergence herbicides kill germinating grass seedlings before they emerge from the soil. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding when and how much herbicide to apply. If crabgrass has already started to grow, it’s likely too late to apply a preemergence herbicide. Crabgrass is an unwelcome invader in many lawns. Spring can be a great time to prevent this unwanted guest from returning this summer. w
DID YOU KNOW? When planning spring landscapes, homeowners should always group plants with similar water needs together. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, grouping plants with similar water needs together helps to conserve water, which can be an especially useful strategy if or when drought restrictions go into effect in summer. Homeowners also can embrace additional strategies to landscape with water conservation in mind. For example, aerating soil helps to improve water flow to plants’ roots and reduces water runoff, helping to ensure that plants get all of the water they need while reducing the likelihood that homeowners will have to use excessive amounts of water to keep plants healthy. In addition, using low-waterusing types of grass can help homeowners who live in areas prone to drought conserve water while still maintaining lush, green lawns. w
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Think inside the box with raised bed gardening
Think inside the box with some raised bed gardening.(Linda Corwine McIntosh/Special to the Montrose Daily Press)
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By Linda Corwine McIntosh Contrary to what we’re always told, it may be time to stop thinking outside the box, and start thinking inside the box! There are so many advantages to thinking inside the box with raised bed gardening. Some of us like the neat, tidy appearance of raised bed gardens. Others might be discovering their old bones just don’t accept bending over to weed a row of vegetables. Many people simply can’t kneel in the dirt to plant, weed, and harvest. Perhaps you’ve discovered your soil is too high in alkali to accommodate growing particular varieties of flowers and vegetables. Using a raised bed garden is the perfect solution for areas with rocky soils, or those with high water tables and poor drainage. They can even be a great solution for gardening on a hill. If you have kids or grandkids you could even make a smaller, child-sized bed for your future little green thumber. Almost anything can be used to create a raised bed. Wood, plastic, brick, and rock come to mind. You can be as creative as your imagination. I’ve even seen old garage door panels turned into frames for the bed. And, of course, you can buy kits that will make building your bed a snap. The benefit of using plastic is that it won’t rot or splinter, but it can warp. Some gardeners attest to using cedar, cypress, or redwood when building raised garden beds. Painting the
boards with linseed oil is also advised. Using pressure treated lumber for a vegetable bed is not recommended because the wood may be treated with toxic materials that might leach into the soil and contaminate your garden. You’ll need to be able to easily reach the center of the bed or box. Extend your arm outward and measure your reach to determine the depth of the box. Most gardeners have discovered limiting the bed’s length to eight feet long or less works best. A shorter bed won’t bow as much and will be easier to walk around to get to the other side of the bed. Several shorter raised garden beds may also look better than one continual long bed. Just be sure to allow room to walk between the beds or get equipment through. If your bed is low enough, constructing it to allow one end panel to be removed to add amendments or to allow for tilling could be beneficial. Once you’ve constructed your box, you will want to add high quality soil. This can be potting soil or topsoil with amendments added. However, some commercially purchased gardening soils and compost can be very high in salts, which is not good for plants. For example, many of the mushroom compost products can be high in salts. It would be a good idea to have any mixes and garden soils tested for the amount of salt, which your local CSU Extension can do.
If you’re planting in a raised bed to avoid the problems presented by salty, alkali soils, the container should be lined with a layer of heavy landscape fabric to act as a salt barrier. Then add approximately four inches of 3/4-inch gravel over the fabric. A second layer of the fabric could then be added to the box and your soil placed on top of it. It’s best to have at least 8 to 12 inches of soil in the box to allow for adequate root growth of plants. You may also want to use plants that are a bit more salt tolerant. Just because you’re growing plants in a bed doesn’t mean you can’t grow taller varieties or vines. Beans, peas, cucumbers, and other vining plants can be grown on trellises inserted or fastened to the frame. They can also be allowed to trail down the sides of the raised bed. Depending on the location of your bed, you will want to locate your taller crops in the center or back of your bed. Drip irrigation can also be added to the beds to
make life a lot easier. Another great thing about growing plants in a box is the advantage you may have for growing in cooler weather. Filling your box half full of soil will enable you to cover the box with plastic to create a temporary cold frame. You could also easily insert hoops into the bed to attach a floating row cover to protect your plants from the cold and insects. Planting invasive plants such as strawberries in a raised bed to contain them is also smart. If birds, chipmunks, or deer were a problem, you could put a hinged framed screen over the bed to keep the strawberries safe from hungry critters. So don’t despair if you’ve had difficulty with growing things. It may be that you simply need to think “inside the box!”w Linda Corwine McIntosh is an ISA Certified Arborist, Licensed Pesticide Applicator, and Colorado Advanced Master Gardener
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Suggestions when shopping for fencing
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Fences can improve functionality of a yard and provide extra security and privacy. Some fences are decorative while others are functional. Families with children and/or companion animals also may find fencing is a necessity to keep everyone safe and corralled. With a vast array of fencing materials available, homeowners may find it challenging to decide which material is right for their properties. The following breakdown can help homeowners learn more about fencing and potentially point them in the right direction regarding which material to choose for their properties.
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Budget Budget is one of the
first considerations many homeowners have when installing fencing. Pricing will affect whether one can afford a chain link fence (one of the most budget-friendly options), wrought iron or ornate wood (more expensive). Pricing out several different types of fences will give homeowners an idea of which material fits into their budgets. Purpose Homeowners install fencing for various reasons. If a fence is an ornamental way to delineate property lines, a picket fence or a post-and-rail fence are simple options that can lend a homey feel to a property. These types of fences also can enhance and frame landscaping elements, such as gardens.
“Fences can improve functionality of a yard and provide extra security and privacy. “
Restrictions It is important to understand local regulations before installing fencing. Communities governed by homeowners’ associations may have rules in place that dictate the type of fences that can be installed. Townships and other municipalities may have their own rules concerning fence type, property borders, fence height, and other factors that will have to be adhered to so that fencing will meet code. If such rules are not following fines may be imposed and the fence may have
to be removed. Homeowners also may need permits to install fencing, whether they are hiring a contractor or doing the work themselves. Maintenance Consumer resource Angie’s List advises homeowners to consider maintenance before choosing a fencing material. Wooden fencing requires the most maintenance due to painting and staining. Aluminum or vinyl fencing requires less maintenance, but it can be harder to repair isolated damage or replace pickets, if necessary. In some instances, the entire fence may have to be replaced. Homeowners install fencing for many different reasons. Considering price, budget, purpose, and maintenance before making a decision regarding fencing can help homeowners make the best decision possible. w
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In many area, laws require homeowners to install fencing around swimming pools. In such instances, chain link fencing that does not obstruct views of the pool might be the best choice. If security or privacy is the main desire, tall fences that make it difficult for neighbors to see into the yard may make an ideal choice.
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Help your shrubs look their best
Pruning shrubs. (Linda Corwine McIntosh/Special to the Montrose Daily Press)
By Linda Corwine McIntosh Pruning can make your shrubs fuller, stimulate prolific blooms, and improve the general health of the plant when done correctly. But you should prune with a couple of specific objectives in mind. One reason to prune a shrub is to remove any dead or diseased wood. Another is to shape the plant or improve the vigor and flowering display. Because not all shrubs require the same method of pruning. Knowing what a particular shrub requires is important. For example, some shrubs benefit from what is known as renewal thinning. Multistem shrubs, such as Dogwood, fall into this category. Dogwoods should have darker, older canes removed at ground level to retain the gorgeous red or yellow branches that make this plant so interesting during the winter months. Removing canes older than about five years is recommended. It’s always easier to make these low cuts early in the season before the leaves have formed and obscure the trunks. Lilacs and Snowballs should also have some of the older, thicker canes removed at ground level to promote new vigorous sprouts. Otherwise, you will eventually end up with a clump of bare stems, with a fringe of green foliage at the top that produces few flowers. The older canes of lilacs can become susceptible to Lilac Ash Borers, so removing the canes is wise. If you want these shrubs to have a sheared, or more manicured appearance, prune the outer branches right after they flower. Because the flower buds for next year will develop shortly after they have flowered and you will cut off the next season’s flowers if you delay this type of pruning. Forsythia, and Honeysuckle, should have dead canes, or those that are 1 1/2 inches in diameter or larger, removed at ground level. Forsythia can be occasionally sheared with hedge trimmers to keep them from having a wild,
spindly appearance and keep them bushier. If aphids have attacked your honeysuckle, the outer tips may be deformed and curled. These can be pruned off after the shrub has bloomed, and as needed throughout the growing season. Daphne usually only need pruning to remove broken branches, however the best time to do any cutting is after the plant has flowered to avoid cutting off the flower buds. Potentilla, Russian Sage, and Blue Mist Spirea can be pruned in the early spring to remove last year’s old flowers. This will also encourage new growth, heavier flowering, and give the plant a more manicured appearance. I know it sounds harsh, but Russian Sage and Blue Mist Spirea will benefit from being pruned to about six inches to a foot above the ground. Potentilla should also be pruned low to the ground in the spring, but how low will depend on the variety you have. Pyracantha is a large shrub that is frequently planted in an area that is too small to accommodate its mature size, which is sad. This thorny shrub will look best with little or no pruning. Pruning to shape it a bit is all that is usually necessary. However, if you need to prune it, it’s best to do it right after the plant has bloomed. Keep in mind that shearing it will reduce or eliminate the beautiful berries; which I think defeats the purpose of planting it. Spring flowering shrubs, such as Mockorange, Flowering Almonds, Daphne, and Cistena plum, should not be pruned until after flowering to avoid cutting off the flower buds. Mockorange should have no growth older than about five years to keep them thick and full. Cotoneaster, Ninebark, and Euonymus also need little if any pruning. Removal of dead and weak growth, or an occasional pruning to direct the growth away from a building is really all that is required for these shrubs. They can also be sheared as a hedge if desired. However, Cotoneasters are available
in many shapes and sizes so some will not be suitable for use as a hedge. Viburnum are terrific shrubs that need very little pruning, if the plant fits the location where it’s planted. Removal of dead or weak growth is all that should be needed. Some species such as Butterfly Bush (Buddleia) have different pruning needs within their own families. Alternating Leaf Buddleia produce flowers on last summer’s growth. Most however, benefit from having all of the branches pruned to within about a foot above the ground. Spent flowers can be removed throughout the summer. With any pruning project, use clean, sharp pruning equipment that matches the size. This makes the job a lot easier and reduces wounding branches. Trim
small branches up to 1/2 inch in diameter with hand shears. Cut branches up to one inch in diameter with loppers. Large branches one to two inches in diameter should be pruned with a pruning saw. If you find yourself shearing a shrub year after year in an attempt to make it fit into its location, it may be time to think about removing the shrub and replacing it with a plant that is more suitable for the site. You might be surprised by the many choices available. Take your time when pruning, and enjoy the experience. Pruning could be as rejuvenating for you as it is for your shrubs.w Linda Corwine McIntosh is an ISA Certified Arborist, Licensed Pesticide Applicator, and Colorado Advanced Master Gardener
Tips for first time vegetable gardeners By Linda Corwine McIntosh More and more people are discovering the joys of growing their very own vegetables, and with good reason. It’s not only fun, but gardening provides a great outdoor experience, is good exercise, and may even save you money. You might even want to include your kids or grandkids in your endeavor and have fun getting dirty as a family. You’ll have the satisfaction of knowing your food is fresh or even chemical free. And you might even be growing a future green thumber as you include your children. First, imagine what you would like to grow in your garden. Next, picture where you would like to grow your produce. Would you like to plant in a large pot? This can be great for a first time gardener or for those who have a small amount of space to work with. Just be sure the pot has drainage. Maybe you’re dreaming of a raised garden bed. Raised beds are nice because they can bring gardening to a higher level, eliminating the strain on your back or knees. Also, they can look pretty cool! Planting directly
into the ground can provide more space to work with and if you wish, you could use a roto-tiller to get work done fast. Most vegetables prefer six hours of sun a day, so that should be considered when planning your garden. Locating your garden near a water source is always a smart idea. You might also be aware of browsing deer in your neighborhood. If you plant it, they will come! You may need to fence your garden. If you’re new to gardening, start with easy plants. Tomatoes, peppers, beans, cucumbers, zucchini, peas, half-long varieties of carrots, radishes, spinach, leaf lettuce, and even herbs are all relatively easy to grow. Keep in mind when you’re planning your garden that some plants may need a trellis to grow on. Peas are one of these. It’s not necessary, but cucumbers and gourds also like to grow on a fence. This is because a fence will keep the produce off the soil, which can cause one side to be a bit damaged where it laid on the soil. Perhaps your backyard fence could serve as a trellis.
Place your trellis and taller plants in the back part of your garden, or to the north or west side of the garden where they won’t interfere with the sun and shade other vegetables. Beans can be grown as a small “bush” or on a trellis depending on the variety, so be sure to check your seed pack to make sure you buy what works best for you. If you’re starting a new garden you’ll need to remove as many weeds or grass as possible. Keep in mind that weeds may be a bigger problem the first few years of gardening, so don’t get discouraged. Every year gets better if you don’t let the weeds go to seed. Soil is the most important factor in any garden, but especially in a vegetable garden. You’ll need to prepare, or work your soil, by adding amendments and working them into the soil. For most soils, three to six cubic yards of organic matter should be added to each 1,000 square foot area. This is equivalent to a layer of material spread on the soil surface one to two inches Continued on next page
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deep before it’s worked in. Mix it thoroughly with a tiller or spade to a depth of about six inches. Try to remove as many rocks as you can and rake the soil smooth. If you’re planting in containers, big is better. Use quality topsoil or potting soil in your containers rather than native soil. So, now reward yourself as the fun part begins. You can plant cool weather crops like spinach, lettuce, carrots, onions, radishes and kale two to four weeks before last frost, which is approximately May 12 for the Montrose area. These crops actually prefer colder weather. Don’t panic if they get snowed on. Leave them alone and they’ll be just fine. They will go to seed and be done for the season when hot weather arrives. After the danger of frost has passed, plant your warm weather plants like tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers. If an unexpected cold snap should hit, be prepared to cover the plants. A product called floating row covers, which is simply a light weight cloth available at your garden centers, can be used to cover your plants to protect them from light frost, wind, and insects. This can be left in place throughout the growing season or removed as temperatures warm. However, you may need to uncover some plants during a portion of the day so bees will be able to pollinate the flowers that will eventually turn into vegetables.
If you’ve purchased any tender new plants to set into the garden, they should be “hardened off” (unless you’re using floating row covers). Hardening off isn’t hard, but is important. This simply means, getting the plant used to the sun and wind. If your plants have come straight out of the protection of a greenhouse, don’t plant them directly into the garden. Set them in a protected shady spot for a day or two to get them used to being outside before you plant. Plant on a cloudy day or in early evening so your plants will have time to get over any planting shock before the hot sun hits them. The seed packages will help you learn about planting your seeds, but here are a couple of additional tips that may help. Tomatoes Harvesting and gardening your vegetables. (Linda Corwine McIntosh/Special to the Montrose and peppers take a long time to produce, so buy Daily Press) plants rather than seeds. carry disease organisms that the soil next to the plants. If of colored vegetables may Tomatoes and pepper can contaminate your soil. it’s moist or feels cold then encourage them to love plants should be planted you probably don’t need to vegetables. Birdhouse deeper than they grew in the Cut your potatoes in half water. gourds (that they can later container. Tomato plants can leaving at least one or two eyes (growing points) and Mulching your plants after paint), large and miniature be laid a bit sideways in the let them sit on the counter planting or after they’ve pumpkins, carrots, and planting hole, in an L shape, overnight before you plant emerged, will help keep cherry tomatoes that can be so the soil will come just them. Garlic is often planted weeds to a minimum and eaten right off of the vine below the first lower leaves. in the spring, but planting it help keep the moisture at will definitely grow your This will help give them a a more even consistency. child’s love of gardening. deep root system. Tomatoes in the fall will produce much Grass clippings make terrific Teach your kids all you can can grow across the ground, better results. After planting, you’ll mulch if they don’t have any about insects. Making a but putting them in a tomato need to keep an eye on soil weed killer in them. Grass scarecrow with them could cage will help plants stay moisture. The soil should clippings are also beneficial also be fun! upright. Again, this will help be allowed to dry a bit, but when left on the turf, so it’s So what are you waiting them be a bit more disease if your plants start to wilt, it a tough decision. I alternate for? Give gardening a try. free and keep the tomatoes means you need to water. with doing a little of both. You’ll be glad you did.w from rotting when they’re There is no one size fits all If you have young kids, be Linda Corwine McIntosh in contact with the soil. sure to include them in the is an ISA Certified Avoid the temptation to buy when it comes to water so you’ll need to experiment fun parts of gardening. Let Arborist, Licensed potatoes for planting from with watering to get it right. them eat fresh peas right PesticideApplicator, and the grocery store because If you aren’t sure about off of the vine and dig for Advanced Colorado Master they may be treated with watering, stick your finger in worms. Planting a variety Gardener sprout inhibitors or may