ROYAL DEESIDE

This summer, celebrations are in full swing around the country in honour of the Queen's Jubilee – so what better time to explore Royal Deeside, her favourite holiday destination and an area steeped in royal history?

In 1842 Prince Albert and Queen Victoria paid their first visit to Scotland. They were so struck with the Highlands that they resolved to return and in 1847 they visited Ardverikie House on the shores of Loch Laggan (which incidentally doubles as Balmoral in The Crown) where their visit was marred by rain. They were hankering after a Highland hideaway and contemplating whether to purchase the property, until three weeks of Scottish weather cast a pall on their plans. It was this, so the story goes, that led to the royal couple casting their gaze eastwards to the sunnier side of the Cairngorms and the pretty banks of the River Dee, where they found the castle that was to become Queen Victoria's favourite retreat, Balmoral. In this magical place, according to Balmoral, she wrote, ‘all seemed to breathe freedom and peace, and to make one forget the world and its sad turmoils,’ going on to say, ‘every year my heart becomes more fixed on this dear paradise.’

Candacraig Wilderness Scotland

It's easy to see why this inspiring corner, on the eastern edge of the Cairngorms National Park, stole her heart and the rest of the Royal family for generations to come. Backed by mountains of awe-inspiring majesty there's also a fairytale quality to the gently wooded glens, rushing rivers and charming chocolate-box villages in their shadow. It has picture-postcard prettiness as well as raw grandeur.

Crathie Kirk Church

The royal stamp of approval catapulted the area into the spotlight and tourists began to explore the region that soon became known as 'Royal' Deeside, to see for themselves the land that had cast a spell over their queen. In turn, it became the treasured retreat for successive generations of the royal family and the Queen has spent her summers here every year since her father's death in 1952. You can follow in royal footsteps with Dream Escape's tailor-made experiences, from salmon fishing in the Dee with a local ghillie to hiking over heather moorlands as your guide weaves tales of Highland folklore, Perhaps attend a traditional Highland Games or explore Aberdeenshire's Victorian Heritage Trail.

A STATELY HOME

Prince Albert bought Balmoral in 1852 as a gift for his wife, knocking down the original castle and drafting in Aberdeen architect William Smith to design a grander royal residence, all towers and turrets in the Scottish Baronial style. It was completed in 1856 giving Queen Victoria what she described as “my dear paradise in the Highlands”. The gardens and grounds are open from April to the beginning of August, when the royal family descends for their summer holiday. Dream Escape can arrange a private tour of the grand Ballroom with its collection of fine art and silverware (the rest of the castle is private). This summer the Ballroom is hosting an exhibition celebrating Her Majesty's close links to Scotland and the Platinum Jubilee with highlights including a contemporary artwork 'Salmon School' made from 250 pieces of mirrored glass along with a selection of outfits worn during her visits to Balmoral. A stroll through the landscaped grounds is also a highlight, however.

It was Queen Mary, the Queen's grandmother, who designed the flower garden below the south lawn, while the Duke of Edinburgh created the large vegetable garden, a water garden and the oak plantation beside the cricket pitch.

Balmoral is a working estate comprising 50,000 acres of farmland, forestry and grouse moor and a two-hour 4x4 safari is a fascinating way to explore the varied landscape. Your trip crosses open parkland in front of the castle before bumping up through Caledonian Scots Pine forest, home to the rare capercaillie and red squirrels. You'll emerge onto the heather moorland, roamed by mighty red deer, then swing by the Queen's 'hutte'; a wedding gift from Norway, where she holds picnics during the summer.

Balmoral Walk

A HEAVENLY SPOT

When in residence at Balmoral the Royal Family worships at Crathie Kirk. The parish church was built in 1895, partly funded with money raised from a bazaar held by two of Queen Victoria's daughters, Princess Louise and Princess Beatrice in the castle grounds. Inside you can see the Royal Pew and the pulpit decorated with marble pebbles from Iona collected by HRH Princess Louise, the 9th Duchess of Argyll, while across the road in the old graveyard are the ruins of the original 14th-century church and the headstones of many of Queen Victoria's household, some bearing personal epitaphs.

John Brown, Queen Victoria's friend and confidante after the death of Prince Albert, who was immortalised in the film Mrs Brown starring Dame Judi Dench and Billy Connolly, is also buried here. There's a life-size bronze statue of him, clad in his kilt and clutching his cap in a remote wooded corner on the estate, which was commissioned by Queen Victoria after his death.

Royal Lochnagar

WHISKY GALORE

Speyside's Malt Whisky Trail is just a caber's throw from Royal Deeside and home to famous distilleries such as The Glenlivet and Glenfiddich. On the edge of Balmoral Estate, however, you'll find the picturesque Royal Lochnagar Distillery, founded by James Robertson in 1826. Queen Victoria visited the distillery in 1848 and was so taken by the whisky, which she liked to drink mixed with claret, that she bestowed it with a Royal Warrant. Today, the distillery has also been granted a Royal Warrant as Scotch Whisky Distillers by Appointment to Her Majesty the Queen, and Dream Escape can organise a range of exclusive tailor-made tastings and tours as well as behind-the-scenes experiences.

Queen Victoria visited the distillery in 1848 and was so taken by the whisky – which she liked to drink mixed with claret, that she bestowed it with a Royal Warrant.

BY ROYAL APPOINTMENT

The pretty town of Ballater has broad streets lined with independent stores, delis, cafés and boutiques, with ‘By Royal Appointment’ listed over many of the doors. This elegant Victorian town is steeped in royal history, and until the 1960s the Old Royal Station was where the royal family would alight on their way to Balmoral for the summer, including Prince Charles who would travel here by train as a boy. The historic station was devastated by fire in 2015, but after a £3million restoration it re-opened again as a tourist attraction and award-winning restaurant, the Rothesay Rooms, a community initiative supported by one of Prince Charles' charitable trusts (he is known as the Duke of Rothesay in Scotland). Tartan-trimmed and dishing up locally sourced and seasonal Scottish produce, it has a field-to-fork focus.

HIGHLAND GAMES

Traditional Highland Games are held in Ballater, Aboyne and Strathdon each summer, but the most famous is the Braemar Gathering which takes place annually on the first Saturday in September and is attended by the reigning monarch and members of the royal family. The Braemar Highland Society was founded in 1815 and granted a royal status by Queen Victoria in 1866. It's a glorious event with foot races, pipe bands, tossing of the caber, putting the stone and throwing the hammer. Add in a tug of war and a Highland dancing competition and it's a day to remember.

WHERE TO STAY

The Fife Arms in Braemar was a humble coaching inn until tourists following in Queen Victoria's footsteps started making a beeline for the area, and it soon grew into a grand granite hotel. Today, it is centre stage once more after a visionary refurbishment by Swiss art gallery owners Iwan and Manuela Wirth. Striking contemporary artworks adorn the walls, the drawing room is clad in bespoke tartan, while in the hotel's fine-dining restaurant The Clunie you can enjoy wild venison from nearby estates. There's more than a nod to the area's royal history. You can bed down in regal elegance in a Royal Suite. The sumptuous, antique-peppered Queen Victoria suite features a stately half-tester bed wreathed in rich fabrics, while Bertie's Whisky Bar, named after Queen Victoria's eldest son, King Edward VII, known for his love of the finer things in life and a famous bon viveur, is a decadent, dimly lit library of malts, one for every day of the year. Divided into fragrant, fruity, rich and smoky, it's the perfect spot for a post-prandial nightcap.

CANDACRAIG

Stay in a private Scottish baronial retreat once owned by Billy Connolly, who famously played John Brown on the big screen. A stay at Candacraig will have you feeling like you’ve woken up in a highland fantasy. Nestled in the breath-taking highland mountains and forests of the Cairngorms, this location sits amongst some of the UK’s most sought after holiday escapes. Whether you’re browsing through the goldhued whisky library, savouring the elegant wood-panelled tartan clad dining room, or strolling the romantic Victorian gardens and 18 acres of impeccable landscaping, the estate offers the ultimate escape from the outside world. Just a short drive from Queen’s castle in Royal Deeside, this exclusive residence provides the perfect balance of seclusion and splendour, all framed by some of Scotland’s most stunning scenery.

Candacraig gives the castle getaway new meaning with their commitment to luxury and a highly personalized guest experience. With 12 uniquely designed bespoke rooms, private chef, butler service, 24 hour staff, a billiards room, a giant outdoor chess set in the Victorian walled garden, and a private lochan fed by the River Don, this one of a kind holiday home will sweep you away from the moment you arrive.

The Sitting Room at Candacraig

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Rosie Peattie, Client Relationship Manager “As a big fan of the British royal family, one of my favourite places to visit is Royal Deeside. In fact, I love it so much that I’ve been there eight times since June 2021! I have followed in the steps of Queen Victoria, visiting Balmoral Castle, Ballater, Lock Muick, and hiked into the hills to see the famous cairns and other spots where the royal family still picnic, fish and relax to this day. At beautiful Crathie Kirk everything from floor to rooftop has a story connected to the royal family in some way.”

⬥ rosie@dreamescape.co.uk

dreamescape.co.uk

WORDS | LUCY GILLMORE