9 minute read

Wonder in Wales: Celtic Routes

Follow in the footsteps of the ancient Celts on an adventure of a lifetime to West Wales and Ireland’s Ancient East. Feel enthralled by the wonders of our natural world – a region rich with wildlife, mountains and waterfalls, ancient castles and historic landmarks.

You’ll find it in the land, the sea, and the sky. You’ll find it in the people, their languages, and their stories. And you’ll find it in the rivers, the trees, and the stones. But what is it? They call it the Celtic Spirit. It’s hard to describe, but if you travel with Dream Escape on a Celtic Routes journey, it’s easy to discover. Come alive in these regions, exploring miles of pristine golden sand and spectacular vistas... Travel is all about discovering new places. And for many it’s about finding lands where we can feel closer to nature and history. Places to restore a sense of balance and harmony in this pressured and sometimes scary world. Celtic Routes is a collection of authentic Celtic experiences, fresh ideas and inspiration to discover the counties of Waterford, Wexford and Wicklow in South- East Ireland; and Pembrokeshire, Ceredigion and Carmarthenshire in West Wales. On a Celtic Routes journey with Dream Escape our Travel Designers will take you beyond the tourism honeypots and take roads less travelled. In Wales, Pembrokeshire is a popular destination but it’s still possible to avoid the crowds and really get to know the county. In the Preseli Hills you can walk ancient tracks through captivating prehistoric landscapes – it’s known in Welsh as Gwlad Hud a Lledrith, meaning ‘Land of Magic and Enchantment’. If you visit Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber, particularly at dawn or dusk, you really have a sense of time and place. The hustle and bustle of modern life will feel a world away.

Barafundle Bay

Barafundle Bay

North Pembrokeshire shares many characteristics with Ceredigion, its neighbour to the north: a dramatic and beautiful coastline, wild and wonderful uplands and a strong Welsh culture. Cardigan Bay is home to Europe's largest pod of bottlenose dolphins, and many of Ceredigion's beaches are secluded coves that can only be reached on foot or by boat. One of Dream Escape’s favourites is National Trust’s hidden cove Mwnt – picture-postcard perfect with a little whitewashed chapel and several steps down to the shore. Aberporth, once an important village for herring fishing, is another wonderful beach. From here you can walk the coast path (one mile) to Tresaith, named after the River Saith, which cascades as a waterfall over the cliffs to the beach. Another National Trust beauty, Penbryn can only be reached by meandering through some woods. Llangrannog is another fabulous stop, with homemade food and sea views at The Pentre Arms.

View of the Cambrian Mountains from Devil's Bridge Falls

View of the Cambrian Mountains from Devil's Bridge Falls

Visitors to Ceredigion who decide to leave the coast and head for hills will be rewarded with an area of astounding natural beauty, otherwise known as the Cambrian Mountains. Here you will feel close to the land as you tread in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims en route to ruined Strata Florida Abbey. And as you enjoy the tranquillity of the Teifi pools, you are more likely to hear skylarks and the whistling call of red kites soaring above, rather than the constant hum of traffic.

Carmarthenshire is farming country. Agriculture has always been important, so you’ll find plenty of places serving food and drink from the area, locally sourced, prepared with care and presented with passion. Towns in the county are blossoming, alive with independent shops and full of products and stories connected to the county. You can also find your lunch in the wild. On a foraging experience along the Carmarthenshire coastline, you’ll learn how to find prawns, mussels, cockles, wild samphire, sea anemones and scarlet elf cup mushrooms. The reward for your efforts is your very own zero-waste, organic lunch on the beach.

Baby deer in Glendalough valley in County Wicklow

Baby deer in Glendalough valley in County Wicklow

South-East Ireland is less visited than some other parts. But a visit to Ireland is not complete without venturing to this corner known as Ireland’s Ancient East.

Spectacular woodland waterfalls in Carmarthenshire

Spectacular woodland waterfalls in Carmarthenshire

To the south of Dublin are the Wicklow Mountains, where you will get a real sense of being in the Emerald Isle. In the heart of the wild scenery, Glendalough was one of the most important monasteries in Ireland; follow in the footsteps of St Kevin on a guided hike around this mystical site. Explore the magnificent 47-acre garden at Powerscourt, with its aristocratic blend of French and Italian formal influence. Then relax in the Avoca Café, which must have one of the best views in Ireland. As the source of the River Liffey, this area is a popular spot for water-based activities like fishing, boating and kayaking. You can walk or cycle the Blessington Greenway along the lakeshore and into natural woodland, or take a private chauffeur-driven tour around the valley. Novelist and poet Brendan Behan described his trip to the area as a ‘journey to the jewel of Wicklow’.

The route through County Wexford passes through many places with an important historical significance. Ferns was the ancient capital of Leinster, where many strands of ancient stories that shape modern Ireland come together. Nearby Enniscorthy has played a key role in Ireland's turbulent history; at the Battle of Vinegar Hill in 1798, Irish rebels fought the British Army. Although the rebels were defeated here, the campaign ultimately led to Irish independence. On the way to Waterford, New Ross was once an important port; a poignant reminder of its maritime heritage is the Dunbrody Famine Ship, a replica of a vessel that took victims of the Great Famine of the 1840s to a new life in North America. Waterford is Ireland’s oldest city and has attracted visited for thousands of years. In 914 a fleet of Viking ships landed in what is now Waterford city. They settled, forged alliances and established trading routes and became an important part of Ireland’s story. If you join the Epic Tour of the Viking Triangle, you’ll discover six national monuments that date from 1190 CE to 1783. This is a wonderful way for visitors to get an overview of Irish history in Waterford.

Dromana Gate, Dromana House and Gardens, Waterford

Dromana Gate, Dromana House and Gardens, Waterford

Travelling through these six incredible counties there is excitement and intrigue at every turn, which in Wales they call Croeso Cynnes Cymreig, so whichever Celtic experiences you pick to add to your Dream Escape journey you can’t go far wrong.

From lush rolling countryside and dramatic mountain ranges to the many idyllic unspoilt beaches, Celtic Routes delivers an adventure from start to finish. Memories are made on this route and the Celtic spirit is infectious.

Where to Stay in Ireland

Dunbrody Country House Hotel

This luxury boutique hotel located on the dramatic Hook Peninsula on Ireland’s south coast, has just reopened after a major refurbishment and with more developments to the spa planned for 2023. Within the centuries-old walls of this beautiful Georgian property there are 22 luxury bedrooms and suites, a gourmet restaurant, the chic Dundon's Champagne Seafood Bar and terrace. Set in 300 acres of parkland, there's plenty of woodland and coastal walks to lose yourself in, as well as a cookery school with owner Kevin Dundon who is passionate about fine food.

Powerscourt Hotel

Powerscourt Hotel Resort & Spa is a 5-star destination situated with a stunning view over to the Great Sugarloaf mountain. With various restaurants and bars, and a wide range of activities available on the estate, this hotel is home to one of Ireland’s most exclusive and scenic spas.

Where to Stay in Wales

Brown’s Hotel

You can’t really ask for a more welcoming, cosy and atmospheric boutique hotel. It is easy to see why Brown's was poet Dylan Thomas' favourite too – he drank there most nights, playing shove halfpenny, darts and skittles, and even called in for tea and breakfast most mornings. In fact, he was there so often that he would even give the hotel phone number out as his own. Brown’s is clearly proud of their literary legend, with his poems and quotes adorning the walls. Owned today by Nigel Short, who also runs Penderyn Whisky, the bar is always well stocked. The restaurant – Dexters at Brown's – is named after the breed of cattle that makes up the hotel's own herd, which is reared on nearby Llywn Farm.

The Grove, Narberth

The Grove is one of the most luxurious hotels in Wales, tucked in the heart of Pembrokeshire with views to the Preseli Hills. Stay in the elegant house or one of its charming cottages and enjoy sitting outside in the manicured lawns by the pretty flower borders and meandering stream. Inside is equally as exquisite; bedrooms are luxurious, full of character with original features. There are two restaurants: the fine-dining Fernery, which has been awarded three coveted AA Rosettes, and the more relaxed and informal Artisan Rooms. For guests in need of pampering there are deep cast-iron baths and in-room massages. One mile away, the market town of Narberth is full of interesting independent shops, including Ultracomida – one of the best delis in the country. With a small dining area at the back, it's a delightful spot for a continental lunch.

Twr y Felin Hotel, St Davids

A former windmill and Wales' first modern art hotel, featuring contemporary design throughout, Twr y Felin is decorated from floor to ceiling with colourful abstract artwork – chosen to evoke the Pembrokeshire landscape. The creativity doesn’t end there either, the chefs in award-winning three- AA-Rosette restaurant Blas are renowned for their flair in the kitchen – with guests and nonguests alike dining there. From the hotel it is a short stroll into St Davids, Britain's smallest city, where you will find plenty of cafés, pubs and the Cathedral.

Find out more

Contact the team at Dream Escape...

Michael Davies, Travel Design Manager

“There are many reasons for visiting the beautiful scenery of West Wales and Ireland’s Ancient East. From the monuments on the Preseli Hills and the Wicklow Mountains, from St Davids Cathedral to Glendalough Monastic City, and from Pembroke Castle to Reginald’s Tower in Waterford, a visitor can wonder at how prehistoric farmers, Celtic saints, and medieval knights all left their imprint on the landscapes here.” ⬥ michael@dreamescape.co.uk

WORDS | JESSICA WAY