19 minute read

THE GREAT WEST WAY'S HOUSES & GARDENS

A journey along the route takes the traveller past some of England’s most spectacular palaces and historic houses – a chance to admire outstanding examples of architecture, art and landscape design, and discover how different people have lived throughout history.

There are over 30 National Trust properties alone along the Great West Way route, such as Cliveden, Mompesson House, Montacute House and Runnymede, the site of the sealing of the Magna Carta, to name but a few. Almost before you leave London, you pass the royal palaces at Kew, Hampton Court and Windsor Castle, the oldest occupied castle in the World.

Then further west as the countryside opens up, and the landscape is scattered with an array of stately homes, two further castles, Highclere and Berkeley, and with many of these properties still owned by the aristocratic families who first built them. Wander Great Halls hung with tapestries, feel the heat of a Tudor kitchen, admire the craftsmanship of an elaborately carved 4-poster bed... or plan your visit during the festive season and join a Christmas wreath making masterclass or magical light trail. Whether you’re about to set off, or you’re looking ahead to your next holiday we hope you feel inspired by our selection of houses and gardens you must visit.

American Museum & Gardens, Bath

Housed in a fine Georgian manor house with outstanding views over the Limpley Stoke Valley on the edge of Bath, the American Museum takes you on a journey through American history, with its remarkable collection of folk, decorative arts and cultural objects. The only museum of Americana outside of the United States, it was founded to bring American history and cultures to the people of Britain and Europe. There are winding paths and woodlands to enjoy in The New American Garden, Mount Vernon Garden, and The Children’s Garden play area. Visit during the festive season (1 to 31 December) for a sparkling trail of illuminations in a magical after-dark adventure which will emblazon the entire house, gardens and woodland in glorious colour.

Apsley House

Standing in the heart of London, Apsley House is the former home of Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington, victor of Waterloo. Designed and built by Robert Adam in the 1770s, the house was bought by the duke in 1817. He transformed it into a palatial residence to befit his status and filled it with works of art and gifts from grateful rulers across Europe. Wellington died in 1852. The following year his son Arthur, the 2nd Duke, decided to open Apsley House to the public. A ‘Museum Room’ was created where Wellington’s magnificent silver trophies, military memorabilia and gifts of porcelain were exhibited. During the 20th century, the family suffered many losses. The 5th Duke died in 1941 and two years later his son and heir, Henry, died from battle wounds received during the Second World War. Gerald, the 7th Duke, decided to offer Apsley House to the nation, together with a significant portion of the 1st Duke’s art collection. Today visitors can be awed by the palatial wonder of the gilded, glittering interiors and stunning artwork of Apsley House as they admire the gifts from emperors, tsars, and kings to the Iron Duke. There are nearly 3,000 fine paintings, sculptures and works of art in silver and porcelain, given to Britain's greatest military hero. Visit on the 25 November for a special evening made of dancing, etiquette and gossip – the Regency Evening experience includes a dance caller (to explain the steps and dances), Regency costumes, gowns, wine and fine dining.

Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire

Just a short detour off the main route Blenheim Palace is a vast confection of pinnacles, pilasters and porticos built in golden stone, owned by the 12th Duke of Marlborough. Sarah, the notoriously difficult wife of John Churchill, the 1st Duke of Marlborough, took charge of the building project, and managed to fall out with the architect John Vanbrugh and with the queen herself. However, in spite of the rows, Sarah oversaw the creation of one of England’s finest Baroque palaces which includes the magnificent state rooms with their painted ceilings glorifying John Churchill. Formal gardens include Water Terraces, an Italian Garden, and the Rose Garden. Don’t miss the magical Ice Kingdom Themed Afternoon Tea (18 November 2022–2 January 2023) at the Orangery.

Bowood House & Gardens, Wiltshire

Bowood House, famed for its gardens, is owned by the Marquis of Lansdowne. Be enchanted by the herbaceous borders and the Italianate terrace gardens with their formal beds and fountains, and don’t miss the 30-acre Woodland Walk, with massed beds of rhododendrons. The 100 acres of parkland here were designed by ‘Capability’ Brown, widely hailed as his best-preserved masterpiece, scattered with lawns and picturesque clumps of trees sweeping down to a gently curving artificial lake, it is a quintessentially English landscape. Other highlights include an arboretum, woodland gardens and Lord and Lady Lansdowne’s secret walled garden. Inside the house, which is open to the public from March to November, there is an unusual stately home laboratory. This is because it was here that Joseph Priestley, while working as the family tutor, discovered oxygen in 1774. You can visit the state rooms, library and chapel as well as the Orangery designed by Robert Adam in the 1760s, and the room he originally created as a small zoo which is now a sculpture gallery. Don’t miss their fantastic Halloween Outdoor Cinema Experiences this October with screenings of the Disney classic Hocus Pocus, Stanley Kubrick classic, The Shining and the vampire classic, The Lost Boys.

Berkeley Castle, Gloucestershire

Just half an hour north of Bristol, Berkeley Castle makes an excellent day out for stays based west of the Great West Way route. Another impressive history, having been lived in by the same family for nearly 900 years, it is the longest lived-in family fortress in England.

Surrounded by eight acres of landscaped gardens, including Queen Elizabeth I’s bowling green and the 8th Earl’s swimming pool, now an ornamental lily pond with plume fountain. Explore the Norman Keep complete with the cell in which King Edward II was held captive and reputedly murdered, walk through medieval kitchens and the imposing Great Hall and marvel at the elegant State Apartments. See magnificent furniture, rare paintings by English and Dutch Masters, Elizabethan tapestries and the world famous Berkeley silver. There are free guided tours, a Tropical Butterfly House, a host of seasonal events and you could even stay overnight in their characterful 9 bedroom town house located on the estate. Henry II gave the Castle to the Berkeley family in 1153. Below the gatehouse is a bowling green, where Queen Elizabeth I is believed to have played. During Christmas Craft Week (5–7 December) there are many festive workshops including luxury wreath making and creating your very own Christmas Glitter House.

Cliveden House, Maidenhead

Few hotels are as famous as 300-year-old Cliveden House – setting of the Profumo affair – or as romantic. Known for exuberant high-society parties, political scandals and, most recently, its connection to a certain royal wedding. Take a room in the Garden Wing and you’ll get views over the spa garden and – in some – a hot tub tucked privately into your terrace. There’s also a wonderful restaurant from chef André Garrett, where English ingredients star on the eightcourse tasting menu. The trump card here though is the 376- acre National Trust estate that surrounds the hotel, its formal gardens the sort of place you could happily lose yourself in for days. There’s direct access to the River Thames for a jaunt and a spot of lunch on a vintage boat, and plenty of pleasant walks to work off the essential afternoon tea, served in the imposing Great Hall. Meander through the six-acre parterre, with its distinctive triangular beds, be uplifted by the fragrant intermingling of flowers and classical statues in the Long Garden and come over all romantic amid 900 roses in the heavenly scented Rose Garden.

Cliveden House bar

Cliveden House bar

Make your visit even more special with a New Year House Party (31 December 2022–2 January 2023). Glamorous gatherings, indulgent feasts and, of course, plenty of Champagne to kick-start 2023 in the most stylish way.

Great Chalfield Manor, Wiltshire

As well as these aristocratic super stars, there are many smaller historic houses dotted across the Great West Way. Great Chalfield Manor is a late medieval manor house, built by the self-made Thomas Tropenell to proclaim his arrival into the landed gentry. He gave his new house all the necessary mod cons of the day including a gate house, moat, great hall and fashionable oriel windows, features which can still be seen, as the house has hardly been touched since his time. This relative neglect accounts for the house’s gentle charm and explains why it’s a popular film location: the BBC series Poldark and Wolf Hall were both filmed here. Visit on the 17 December to join in the fun and festivities during their annual Christmas fair.

Iford Manor Gardens, near Bath

For garden-lovers, a perfect day out on your Great West Way journey could be the wonderful Iford Manor, close to Bath and the idyllic Frome River valley. Here you can dreamily wander around 2.5 acres of historic gardens that sit at the heart of the Grade-1 listed gardens designed by Harold Peto during his tenure at Iford from 1899-1933. Explore freely getting lost amongst the colonnades, pools and steps, as you enjoy the magnificent rural views over the valley. The garden contains many steep, narrow and uneven paths, as well as long flights of steps without handrails – very much part of the garden’s charm and design. There are a host of lovely Christmas events happening across the Iford Manor Estate this December including wine tasting and Christmas wreath making workshops, followed by a delicious lunch.

Kelmscott Manor, Oxfordshire

The summer home of William Morris, Kelmscott Manor

The summer home of William Morris, Kelmscott Manor

Kelmscott Manor, a short detour off the route, was the iconic country home of William Morris; poet, designer, craftsman, socialist and founding father of the Arts and Crafts movement. This Grade I listed house was loved by Morris as a survival of traditional craftsmanship in harmony with the nearby village and surrounding landscape, which lies towards the very upper reaches of the Thames, inspiring many of his most important designs and writings, including the world-famous Willow pattern. Today, visitors will find an outstanding collection, from early 17th Century furniture to a unique collection of furnishings chosen by Pre-Raphaelite painter-poet Dante Gabriel Rossetti and pieces from each of Morris’ London homes, including several designed especially for the iconic Red House. Kelmscott Manor also boasts enchanting riverside gardens and the River Thames is located just a few hundred yards away. Beyond the walls of the formal garden stand the impressive farm barns – two of them house the Tearoom and beautiful Shop. The Tearoom is a must, with its friendly staff and delicious home-made meals and cakes, whilst the Shop is packed with decorative and unusual items ideal for gifts or mementoes.

Longleat, Wiltshire

Home of the Marquess of Bath, Longleat is one of the finest examples of Elizabethan architecture in England, and since 1580, up until today, has been owned by 16 generations of the Thynn family. The House is open to the public throughout most of the year. Inside this 450-year-old treasure trove, you will find the original Elizabethan Great Hall, the spectacular Grand Staircase, the impressive Saloon stretching 90 feet long with exquisite Flemish tapestries, beautiful antique furniture and a staggering collection of more than 40,000 books.

Longleat and Britain's biggest singing Christmas tree

Longleat and Britain's biggest singing Christmas tree

In total there are 15 breathtaking rooms, together with stunning ‘Capability’ Brown landscaped grounds. Famously known for being the first drive-through safari park outside of Africa in 1966, home to, amongst other animals, majestic lions, a troop of mischievous macaque monkeys, a pack of grey wolves plus, the only animal collection in Europe to exhibit Southern koalas. In November, the UK's original, biggest and most exciting lantern festival is the showstopper at Longleat – The Festival of Light, and the theme for this year? You will be stepping into The Wondrous Worlds of Roald Dahl. Then, in December, Longleat becomes even more magical with a Santa Train, Winter Safari Drive-through and Britain's biggest singing Christmas tree – at 20 metres tall, it will sing your favourite carols and flurries with snow!

The Merchant's House, Marlborough

A glorious restoration of a 17th Century silk merchant's house The House of Thomas Bayly was built following the Great Fire of Marlborough in 1653. Over the years 1653-1700 a fine timber and brick building was constructed, its interior panelled, brilliant with wall paintings and with a commanding oak staircase. A substantial amount of this fabric survives and hidden painted decoration is still being revealed. Many of us are familiar with homes of the aristocracy; here is a rare opportunity to view a 17th century house of the type many of us might have lived in. Thomas was a prosperous silk mercer whose lifestyle is reflected in the spacious and elegant rooms on show. The house is a living place. Throughout the season there are demonstrations of costume making, needlework and historic paint conservation. Musicians often play music appropriate to the period.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Surrey

Kew Gardens Palm House in the snow

Kew Gardens Palm House in the snow

For an unforgettable horticultural experience, make a beeline for Kew Gardens. By day you can see the vast UNESCO World Heritage Site by walking or hop aboard the Kew Explorer Land Train, which will wizz you round the main sites in around 40 minutes. Current highlights of any tour include the Palm House, built with a rainforest climate to nurture the plant life brought back by Victorian botanists; The Hive, an immersive experience that echoes the life going on inside a real beehive; and The Princess of Wales Conservatory, which is packed with all sorts of prickly curiosities from cacti to carnivorous plants. Visit in the evening on selected dates between 16 November 2022 and 8 January 2023 for Christmas at Kew when the stunning gardens are decorated in a show-stopping annual trail of festive light installations. More than a million tiny bulbs and flickering flames light up the night, as rainbow reflections shimmer on the water and trees are drenched in dazzling hues. Along the route there's festive hot food and treats such as spiced winter warmers and hot chocolate.

The Savill Garden, Windsor

The Savill Garden in Windsor Great Park has been a tranquil place to discover rare plants from around the world since its creation in the 1930s. This natural haven of beautifully designed gardens and woodland can be enjoyed by everyone, from dedicated horticulturists to those who just want to spend a relaxing day out with family or friends. There are 35 acres of interconnected gardens including the Hidden Gardens, Spring Wood, the Summer Gardens, the New Zealand Garden, Summer Wood, The Glades, Autumn Wood and the Winter Beds. Don’t leave before visiting The Christmas Tree Shop to pick up some natural decorations for your home including wreaths and fresh boughs of holly and mistletoe. The Christmas Tree Shop also stocks a selection of food and drink, including our very own Windsor Great Park Sparkling Wine, grown in a vineyard on the Estate.

Stourhead in autumn

Stourhead in autumn

Stourhead, Wiltshire

A little way off the Great West Way in south Wiltshire, but a must-visit if you’re in the area, Stourhead is one of the Great West Way’s most famous gardens. Described as ‘a living work of art’ when it opened in the 1740s, its classical architecture includes a grotto, a gothic cottage and its own Temple of Apollo. For Alan Power, head gardener, his favourite time of year here is autumn: ‘the garden, the architecture, the plants and the trees all perform perfectly together. It’s like an encore before the rest for winter.’ The after-dark illuminated trail through the garden at Stourhead returns for its fourth year on selected dates between 25 November 2022 – 1 January 2023 with over a million twinkling lights and seasonal sounds fill the air with festive fun.

Strawberry Hill House, Twickenham

Strawberry Hill House has been open to visitors for over 250 years, it is the former summer residence of Horace Walpole, author of ‘The Castle of Ontranto’ and is famous for being Britain’s finest example of Georgian Gothic Revival architecture. Inspired by William Kent and the ideas behind the English Landscape Movement, Horace Walpole created a romantic garden to complement his Gothic castle. Formal borders mixed with groves of trees and shrubs crossed by winding paths, and flowers and fragrance, a fine lawn, an open terrace and meadows that led straight to the River Thames. The five-acre garden has been, as far as possible, restored to its original appearance using Eighteenth-Century maps and paintings as well as Walpole’s own writing. It is Grade II listed and of national importance as a reminder of a fascinating period in garden history. It is a charming, compact garden full of a variety of beds, borders, walks, groves, lawns and woodland. Visit on the 21 November to join the discussions around Charles Dicken’s most famous novel, A Christmas Carol a festive tale of redemption and compassion.

Turner’s House, Twickenham

Looking at the blue plaque on the front of Sandycombe Lodge you can imagine Turner living there – it was his retreat from the London art world. The architecture of this little building is quirky, reflecting Turner’s own designs but also the influence of his good friend, John Soane. Turner made many sketches before finally arriving at his final design, and these are now brought together in single facsimile sketchbook.

Some of the beautiful etchings from his Liber Studiorum are on display, several of them responding to troubled years when England was under threat of invasion, along with beautifully crafted models of ships, variations on those which Turner had. In Turner’s time, Sandycombe stood on a large plot of land, bordered by two huge estates. His grounds have now been built over, as have the estates – so the open views he would have had are shown by digital technology. The small remains of the once-large gardens has been beautifully planted. On the 27 October St Margaret’s Wine are hosting a Whiskey Tasting at Turner’s House event. Tickets include a selection of three whiskeys, food, admission to the house, and a tour of the exhibition, Between the Sheets: Turner’s Nudes.

University of Bristol Botanic Garden, Bristol

Fascinating displays tell the story of plants in several zones. The evolution collection boasts species dating back 200 million years. Two medicinal herb gardens – Chinese and Western – display useful plants. On chilly days, take shelter in the tropical zone glasshouse, marvel at giant waterlilies, and admire edible crops such as cocoa, vanilla, sugar cane, banana, pineapple and ginger. Visit on the 24 November for a special autumn-themed lecture by Poppy Okotcha; Growing a better world.

Bristol Botanic Garden Evolutionary Dell

Bristol Botanic Garden Evolutionary Dell

Stonor Park, South Oxfordshire

Described by Lord Gibson, former National Trust Chairman, as: ‘Possibly the most beautiful setting for any house in England’, there’s a lush mix of ponds, fountains and pleasure gardens. Stroll amid neat box hedges, and seek out the hidden Japanese retreat. Stonor Park is one of the longest lived-in family homes in England, owned by the Stonor family for over 850 years. Located near Henley, Stonor is a beautiful place to visit, especially if you are staying east of the Great West Way route. The historic building and sweeping grounds are breathtaking and inside there is a fascinating family collection of art and artefacts. Open to visitors between April-September and at Christmas, (gardens are open April-October), you can view the work of St. Edmund Campion, created when he was given refuge there in 1581, and outside sits their oldest resident, a perfectly preserved prehistoric stone circle. Visit Stonor House when it has been beautifully decorated for Christmas and experience a Candle Lit Christmas where, walking from room to room, you will be able to imagine the many family members and friends who would have celebrated this festive season here through the centuries. Delicious seasonal fare will be served in the Stonor Pantry and the Gift Shop will be overflowing with goodies for all the family.

Syon Park, London

The London home of the Dukes of Northumberland, the Percy family, for over 400 years – Syon is one of the last great houses of London. Profoundly historic, the House holds a wealth of art within its grand classical interiors, while the Park and Gardens feel like deep countryside, although barely nine miles from Charing Cross. As the nights draw in, Syon Park once again hosts the Enchanted Woodland during November, which sees the 600-year-old gardens transformed by a display of lights and music. Now in its 16th year the trail winds through the arboretum, passing the sixteenth century Syon House, and ends at the spectacular Great Conservatory. An array of lighting effects – from high-tech lasers to low tech candles – illuminate the visitor’s way through the trees.

Chritmas illuminations light up the woodlands at Syon Park

Chritmas illuminations light up the woodlands at Syon Park

Waddesdon Manor, Buckinghamshire

A former Rothschild, French Renaissance chateau brimming with priceless treasures and a contemporary exhibition space. There are also restaurants and cafes, a boutique hotel, a gift and Rothschild wine shop and wine cellars with access to wine tastings, not to mention acres of landscaped gardens. During the winter the grounds are transformed by dazzling colour and light displays, bathing trees and manor alike in beautiful hues. Wrap up warm and follow the trail, wending its way past imaginative illuminated installations.

Christmas Fair at Waddesdon

Christmas Fair at Waddesdon

Westonbirt Arboretum

With 15,000 trees from around the world, including five national collections, autumn is spectacular here. Dendrologist Michal Dvorak says: ‘With our world-renowned maples taking center stage, it’s easy to miss lesser-known gems. The smoke bush is a feast of colour, including fiery yellows, reds, peaches and purples. The Persian ironwood is another one not to miss in autumn as its leaves turn crimson and gold.’ Don’t miss the step-free STIHL Treetop Walkway, and download a fun kids’ activity booklet, including creating leaf crowns and hunting acorns. Father Christmas’ elves have made their way to the arboretum to decorate the trees in twinkly lights for Christmas. Visit between the 25 November and 21 December 2022 and be one of the first to experience their brand-new illuminated trail.