TRIP PLANNER: SOUTHERN OREGON COAST PG. 86
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Adventures: 5 Romantic Cabins
Coastal Life Canvas
Luxurious Trout Recipes
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You don’t have to pedal the world to be a discoverer. Or be the first international female sports star, like Annie Londonderry, a mother from Boston who cycled around the world in 1895. You just have to explore Discovery West. Nestled in Bend’s Westside, this new community is at the heart of beauty, nature, and lifestyle that makes Bend, well, Bend. Visit discoverywestbend.com to learn about the neighborhood, Annie herself – and how you could even find your new home on Londonderry Place. Or head on over to our Discovery Pod at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane and do your own exploring.
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Coastal Canvas artwork by Drea Rose Frost SURFER-ARTIST Drea Rose Frost knows her muse, northern Oregon’s chilly, sharky waters, and she rides its energy on classic Harbour longboards. Driving along the coast in her white Ford Econoline, she observes, then depicts it—orange crab-buoys and raingear-clad fishermen, surfboards, lighthouses and beaming red hulls of boats. (pg. 44) JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2022
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JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2022 • volume 72
AJ Meeker
FEATURES
58 The Global Flavors of Portland The world is a fork’s reach away in America’s darling of the dining scene. Despite the ravages of a pandemic, many food carts, restaurants and marketplaces are making it—serving homages to heritage and a globe’s worth of authentic, diverse dishes. It’s cause for celebration. Here’s an invitation to the party. written by Julie Lee
66 Life in Our (Near) Future Oregon What will a climate-focused future look like in Oregon? Some of those changes are already on the drawing board. A look at the high-stakes game playing out now, shaping how we’ll live as climate change demands an imaginative, innovative evolution. written by James Sinks
72 Evolution: Skeleton Keys Get a glimpse of the latest at Bend’s High Desert Museum, which is exhibiting the Smithsonian’s fascinating digital prints of fish species, revealing evolutionary sequences.
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Ava Gene’s is beloved for its Roman-inspired dishes using the best ingredients of the Pacific Northwest.
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DEPARTMENTS JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2022 • volume 72
LIVE 18 NOTEBOOK
A Eugene physicist on quantum science and life’s meaning. Portland punk, mountain psych-folk, dorm-room-pop and Wallowa twang—Oregon musicians’ best of 2021. Beer’s most exciting trends, a bourbon-brandy cocktail recipe, a Blazer’s boozy tea, bling for besties, Oregon’s winter Olympians and more.
24 FOOD + DRINK
An acclaimed restaurateur and chef deliciously disrupts the Ashland food scene. A mother and daughter collaborate on folk healing herbal teas in Portland. Best places for dumplings, and craving macarons.
28 FARM TO TABLE
From child angler to seafood businessman, a fisherman’s journey to becoming a sustainable seafood advocate. Oregon’s top chefs’ recipes for Dungeness crab stuffed trout; ocean trout with pistachio vinaigrette, and smoked trout pâte.
34 HOME + DESIGN Tim LaBarge
Paint, wallpaper and accessories transform a West Slope home. DIY: Install a barrel sauna in the backyard.
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42 MIND + BODY
The secrets and joys of running in snow, with pro tips and inspiration for getting out there for the adventure.
44 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
This artist knows her muse: Oregon’s chilly, sharky waters, longboards, crab-buoys, fishermen, lighthouses and coastal life, observed.
THINK 50 WHAT’S GOING UP
From industrial airparks to the Dundee Hills, Bend, Lake Oswego and into Vancouver, new tasting rooms are popping up and popping corks.
52 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
When this chemist saw “some really strange reactions” under her microscope, it led to a $24 million research grant for work that could aid the climate crisis.
54 MY WORKSPACE
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56 GAME CHANGER
Tammy Ross
Kinhaven Winery
Success surrounds an outdoor retailer in Ashland founded by a couple who sought to live their dreams in harmony with the earth.
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Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
This is what happens when two teachers see a gap in education around the greatest existential threat to human life on Earth.
EXPLORE 78 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Science shows we get positive vibes from waterfalls. We pair them with cozy cabins and outdoor fun.
80 ADVENTURE
An insider’s guide to getting out, then getting snowed in—at five romantic cabins.
84 LODGING
Rediscover Old Town Chinatown and the Pearl District at a restored, historic property drawing modern inspiration from the area’s diversity, arts and culture.
86 TRIP PLANNER
Discover why this is an ideal time for exploring the temperate Southern Oregon coast’s world-class golf, picturesque, wild beaches and fresh seafood at casual and upscale restaurants.
COVER
photo by Aubrie LeGault (see The Global Flavors of Portland, pg. 58)
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92 NW DESTINATION
Sip cabernets, carménères and viogniers amid the Blue Mountains, ramble through downtown and explore new offerings in mod style. It’s all in Walla Walla.
CONTRIBUTORS
CHRISTOPHER DIBBLE Photographer Home + Design “I feel so fortunate to be invited into homes by designers who’s work I admire to photograph fun, colorful spaces like the Greenberg home designed by Mandy Riggar. While on set, I love hearing stories about how spaces come together, learning about the collaboration between designer and homeowner. This home had such great colorful pieces, it was fun to find the best ways to showcase this beautiful, unique space.” (pg. 34) Christopher Dibble is a West Coast-based photographer and has spent his career photographing projects for commercial and editorial clients, designers, artists, and architects.
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JULIE LEE Writer Farm to Table; The Global Flavors of Portland “Multi-tasking is my superpower; I admire anyone who juggles well, and Lyf Gildersleeve of Flying Fish Company impresses. Secondgeneration fishmonger, company president, restaurateur, husband, father, and overall great human, Gildersleeve balances all brilliantly and still manages a chill demeanor. He enjoys fishing for trout all around Oregon with his kids, and his fierce devotion to sustainable seafood sourcing is important work.” (pg. 28) Julie Lee works for Little Bird Media Solutions in Portland. She is a fervent Oregon Ducks fan and likes to unwind her type AAA personality with yoga.
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K.M. COLLINS Writer Adventure
TAMBI LANE Photographer Homegrown Chef
“Hunting for romantic cabins in the woods of Oregon was a great way to plan for some Valentine’s Day jaunts (for when I have a partner someday), discover future writing getaways and connect with Pacific Northwest-style lodging steeped in local history. When I’m ready to stop sleeping on my Otter Expedition NRS raft, in my Ford Escape or in a tent, I’ve got a short list of out-of-the-way accommodations where I can’t wait to hang my hat and lay my weary bones.” (pg. 80)
“Food feeds and comforts. Food is family and friendship. It is an adventure and the unknown. Food photography has taken me places I never knew I could go. I’ve experienced art in ways I never knew possible, and I am learning to embrace it all. When I said yes to my first food photography project, I was not prepared for where the path would lead. The biggest lesson for me was to just say yes and embrace the road ahead.” “Pull up a chair. Take a taste. Come join us. Life is so endlessly delicious.” — Ruth Reichl (pg. 32)
K.M. Collins is a geologist-turnedwriter who shares stories about adventure, the outdoors and Oregon from her high desert home base in Bend. The object of her affection—tied with writing— is whitewater rafting.
Tambi Lane has lived in Bend since 2003 with her two daughters. She now enjoys time with her partner and two French bulldogs.
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EDITOR-AT-LARGE Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Cathy Carroll CREATIVE DIRECTOR Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
OFFICE MANAGER
DIRECTOR OF SALES
HOMEGROWN CHEF
BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Aaron Opsahl Isabel Max Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Thor Erickson Beau Eastes
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Kevin Branaghin, K.M. Collins, Everett E. Cummings, Melissa Dalton, Isabella Golasi, Julie Lee, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, Lauren Sharp, James Sinks
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Kevin Clark, Carly Diaz, Christopher Dibble, Tambi Lane, Aubrie LeGault, Daniel O’Neil, Mark Stockamp
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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.
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FROM THE
EDITOR-AT-LARGE WELCOME TO 2022 and our first issue of the year. Every small business has struggled to make it through these challenging times, and we’re no different. Thanks to your support as readers and advertisers and an amazing crew at Statehood Media, we have made it through a tough year to bring you this breath of fresh air, the Best Places Issue. This year, we’ve interpreted Best Places with a culinary flair—Best Places for Global Flavors in Portland (and suburbs) on page 58. Foodie and writer Julie Lee brings these together for you in this feature. Think of the flavors from Vietnamese, Thai, Lebanese, Mexican and Italian cuisine. Your 2022 just took on a global perspective without getting on an overseas flight. Along the same path to global flavors, you may find our best dumplings of note on page 27. Likewise, our Recipes bring savory trout dishes into your sphere as our Farm to Table centers on sustainable trout fishing in Oregon (pg. 28). Don’t forget to treat yourself to our favorite macarons in Cravings on page 26.
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This year feels different already. The world is facing years of willful neglect in the face of environmental crises. There are no excuses left. We can see and feel the frog being slowly boiled and know that we all are that frog. On page 66, we ask what measures Oregon is taking for climate resiliency and if they are enough. Please read this and take action of your own, no matter how small. One act of sustainability is buying and remodeling an existing home instead of buying a newly built home. To that end, turn to page 34 for some eye candy as we go behind a remodel of a “Mid-century Modern with a side of hot sauce.” Wallpaper, paint and splashes of color are the heat behind the hot sauce. One of my favorites in this issue is the DIY barrel sauna (pg. 38). It brings together a sense of creativity and sets a goal for the year—build my own sauna. We’ll see what the moon says. If all else fails, there’s still the False Barber, a bourbon and citrus cocktail that looks both accommodating and healthy, in our Cocktail Card on page 24. Cheers!
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Sunset blankets the beach in pinks and oranges on the Oregon Coast.
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NOTEBOOK 18 FOOD + DRINK 24 FARM TO TABLE 28 HOME + DESIGN 34 MIND + BODY 42
pg. 28 Follow one man’s journey from child angler to fishmonger businessman, recreational trout fisherman and sustainable seafood advocate.
Natalie Gildersleeve
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 44
“Sometimes the greatest adventure begins when you return home.” Drew & Maura Bledsoe
Bob Healy, Estate Vineyard Walla Walla Valley WINE LOUNGES: WALLA WALLA, WA AND BEND,OR | BLEDSOEFAMILYWINERY.COM | INFO@BLEDSOEFAMILYWINERY.COM
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Eric Schramm Photography/U.S. Ski & Snowboard
Tidbits + To-dos
XXIV Olympic Winter Games Tune in to the XXIV Olympic Winter Games in Beijing, February 4 through 20, to catch Oregonians Tommy Ford, the alpine ski racer from Bend who has represented the U.S. in two Winter Olympics and four World Championships. Other Oregonians expected to be competing include, on the aerials team, Winter Vinecki, who lives part-time in Bend; alpine ski racer Jackie Wiles of Portland and alpine ski racer Luke Winters of Gresham.
r ou AR y k D ar m LEN
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www.usskiandsnowboard.org
Kuze Fuku & Sons Kuze Fuku & Sons is creating delicious new beverages in Newberg, from fruit juice drinks with apple cider vinegar to drink mixers. The juice drinks, in apple, pink grapefruit, pomegranate, and yuzu flavors, are sugarfree and low in calories, sweetened by the fruit juice or with honey. A new line of strawberry, ginger ale and banana drink mixers are great for making milkshakes, sparkling water, or for topping yogurt, ice cream or cheesecake. www.kuzefukuandsons.com
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Brent A. Miller
Maloy’s Jewelry Workshop + Valentine’s Day “Headlight” earrings made with antique crystal stones, set in eighteenth-century style sterling mountings with solid gold ear-wires, offer jaw-dropping sparkle and elegance—small ($250) or large ($500). Vintage diamond earrings crafted at Maloy’s Jewelry Workshop, a Portland institution since 1986, are especially eye-catching around Valentine’s Day. Maloy’s tiny original storefront, two doors down SW 10th Avenue from its current shop, was barely big enough for a jeweler’s bench, a few trays of vintage pieces and a case of exceptional jewelry handmade by founder Shan Maloy. www.maloys.com
DIGITS Bourbon + Smith Teamaker NBA legend and former Portland Trail Blazer Scottie Pippen teamed up with local premium craft tea company Smith Teamaker on a new barrel aged tea. Blend No. 33, DIGITS Bourbon Barrel Aged Black Tea, combines three black teas aged for five months in charred-oak bourbon-whiskey barrels. The tea blend is then mixed with coconut, cinnamon and vanilla for a flavorful elixir to sip straight or with a shot of bourbon. www.smithtea.com
Amarena Style Cherries Cherries from Oregon family farms get special attention in the new Royal Harvest Reserve Amarena Style Cherries. The amarena cherries of Italy are stemless, blueberry-sized, tart, and packed in a dark, thick syrup. This rendition uses Northwest cherries, which are naturally sweeter—perfect for cocktails, ice cream, cakes or to top oatmeal. They’re free of preservatives, gluten, sulphites or corn syrups. www.pacificcoastproducers.com
March March, a creative and playful party goods company, is obsessed with pattern and design. Details of everyday life inspire lively, beautiful, environmentally friendly party goods illustrated and designed in their Portland studio. For example, the delightfully doublesided, Winter Zest gift wrap evokes a cocktail or baked treat—fresh, bright and sweet. March’s founding trio launched the endeavor as an extension of their luxury wallpaper creations, which they’ve done for years at makelike design (see pg. 40). www.marchpartygoods.com
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BEST 2021 ALBUMS OF
Sturdy walls of sound, left-of-center country, effervescent prog-pop-rock and new voices, too. written by Ben Salmon
FROM PORTLAND PUNK and hip-hop, to twang made in the shadow of the Wallowas, transplanted English psych-folk in Central Oregon and party-friendly dorm-room-pop from Eugene, Oregon musicians made a lot of incredible sounds this year. Here are the twenty-one best albums released by Oregon artists in 2021. Alien Boy Portland Don’t Know What I Am Lots of bands spend lots of time and money trying to get just the right guitar tone. Alien Boy nails it every time. On both Don’t Know What I Am (and 2018’s Sleeping Lessons, a modern classic), the band expertly walks the blurry lines between punk, pop and shoegaze. Along the way, they
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build a wall of sound sturdy enough to support the songs of Sonia Weber, who’s writing more emotionally resonant rock songs than just about anyone else right now.
Margo Cilker Enterprise Pohorylle There’s an interesting scene happening in the northeastern
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corner of Oregon, where a swarm of solid songwriters have come together around the historic OK Theatre in Enterprise. The breakout star of this bunch is Margo Cilker, a singer-songwriter with an uncommon ability to tell vivid, lived-in stories and set ‘em to slightly left-of-center country music. On Pohorylle, she rolls out nine songs that herald the arrival of a wonderful new voice from the rural reaches of the state.
Christine is a true homerecorded DIY project, recorded “among trees, an overgrown garden, and a plethora of birds,” according to notes accompanying the EP. And at just five tracks and fourteen minutes long, it is the shortest and slightest release on this list. But don’t let any of the above fool you: using only an acoustic guitar and her voice, songwriter Maddy Heide sings beguiling folk songs that flutter quietly yet pack an outsized punch and show a ton of promise.
Matthew W Kennelly
Canary Room Portland Christine
Margo Cilker is a breakout star of an interesting music scene in northeast Oregon, telling vivid, lived-in stories set to slightly left-of-center country music.
serious storytelling skills and a sturdy rhyming style, In Spite Of… might be his most consistent effort yet, thanks to a striking set of beats and its relentless focus on Capes’ own world-class hustle. The result is an album that both hits hard and feels intensely personal.
Laundry Eugene Movie Star Thank goodness for college towns, where young people with fertile minds can gather in large numbers and find like-minded folks. This is the origin story of many bands, including Laundry, whose members met in the dorms at the University of Oregon. They’ve been busy ever since, playing house shows and recording effervescent prog-pop-rock songs. Their debut full-length, Movie Star, is a wonderland of dizzying guitars, delightful melodies and dreamy vibes.
the most mesmerizing album of 2021, made by Fabiola Reyna, Brisa Gonzalez and Papi Fimbres, three MexicanAmerican artists focused on exploration, reflection and healing through the music that resonates in their hearts. Mayahuel was made after a period of time soaking in the music, people and traditions of Oaxaca, Mexico, and what came out was a highly percussive blend of cumbia music, hypnotic R&B, psychedelic pop and traditional spirit.
JP3 Portland Damnation of Memory As it does every year, local grassroots label PJCE Records put out a bunch of great jazz albums in 2021, documenting the depth and breadth of Portland’s scene along the way. They’re all worth checking out, but the most interesting of the bunch is this debut from trombonist James Powers, who uses electronic manipulation of traditional instruments, spoken word, oddball funk grooves and relentless experimentation to bring his likeable vision of outsider jazz to life.
Mic Capes Portland In Spite Of… Mic Capes has long been one of the brightest lights on Portland’s hip-hop scene, even getting a shout-out as the city’s best rapper from TrailBlazer star Damien Lillard. While the prolific MC has always had
Lloyd Taylor-Clark Bend Swan Songs Is it cheating to include an English musician who recorded his album in England and then moved to Bend in 2020 on this list? Maybe. But Oregon should claim Lloyd TaylorClark while it can; Swan Songs is that good. Listening to its nine tracks is like watching a softly focused film about love, languor and the liminal spaces in between, soundtracked by mildly psychedelic folk songs that are pillowy soft, incandescent, expertly crafted and teeming with life.
Sávila Portland Mayahuel Welcome, friends, to
13 MORE ALBUMS WORTH HEARING Alcopops | Devil
Liila | Soundness of Mind
Blackwater Holylight | Silence/Motion
No-No Boy | 1975
Bocha, Corey G & Donte Thomas | BUDS
The Shivas | Feels So Good // Feels So Bad
Floating Room | Shima Grouper | Shade
Esperanza Spalding | Songwrights Apothecary Lab
Slow Corpse | Bite Your Tongue
Stoner Control | Sparkle Endlessly Mo Troper | Dilettante Unto Others | Strength
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2022
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Bibliophile
Prolific author Amit Goswami posits that quantum physics, “the physics of possibilities” from which consciousness chooses, can be powerful for making lifestyle changes.
Riding the (Brain) Waves A physicist applies quantum science to finding meaning and purpose in life interview by Cathy Carroll
AMIT GOSWAMI is a retired professor of physics from the University of Oregon, where he served on the faculty from 1968 to 1997. Goswami, of Eugene, is also one of fourteen thought leaders who have contributed essays to the new autobiography of world-renowned philosopher Ervin Laszlo, My Journey: A Life in Quest of The Purpose of Life. The book presents scientific evidence that life is not a meaningless accident, and explores the importance of the quest to understand the purpose of one’s own life and all life on Earth—as well as practical ideas for building a better world. Goswami’s new book, The Quantum Brain, written with the physician Valentina Onisor, is about the importance of quantum neuroscience for making lifestyle changes that can bring more meaning, purpose, creativity, love, happiness and intelligence to one’s life. He discussed those concepts in this interview. 22
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What does brain wave data tell us about the possible states of consciousness? That there are not only the three ordinary states of consciousness, but also perhaps a fourth major state of consciousness deeper than the state of deep sleep, but not coma or trance. Instead, it signifies a direct being with oneness. Furthermore, quantum science of consciousness can explain all the different shades of the ordinary states. What do you think meditation does to the brain? Meditation slows down the brain and increases the gap between thoughts. In that gap, unconscious processing takes place. In this way, if we work with a slow mind, it simulates the do-be-do-be-do of the creative process, an important aspect of creative thinking. What can you tell us about evidence that thoughts and feelings are
quantum in their behavior? Thoughts have the dual aspect, meaning—many facetedness (which is waveness) and information—one facetedness (or particle-ness). British psychologist Anthony Marcel’s cognitive experiment verifies that meaning processing is unconscious ... whereas information processing is conscious. Feelings similarly have a dual: yin (stillness, which is unconscious processing of potentiality or wave) and yang (activity or manifest particle-ness) aspect that the Chinese knew millennia ago. Can you give some examples of your belief in how we could make positive emotional brain circuits, and what would be the objectives for doing that? If we transform defensiveness and allow vulnerability, then we feel love, and repeated such experiences makes us positive emotional brain circuits. Same thing happens with giving, forgiveness, and humility.
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For fine antique and custom jewelry, or for repair work, come visit us, or shop online at Maloys.com. We also buy.
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food + drink
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Tulip Shop Tavern / Portland
False Barber Von Ebert Brewing’s Pearl District pub is a perfect spot for sampling its award-guzzling brews such as Volatile Substance IPA.
This cocktail is named in honor of a character in the spaghetti Western My Name is Nobody.
• 4 long dashes Angostura bitters • 4 long dashes St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram • ½ ounce Demerara syrup • ½ ounce lemon juice • ¾ ounce grapefruit juice • ¾ ounce Peychaud’s Apertivo • ½ ounce Laird’s Straight Apple Brandy • 1 ounce bourbon (we use Henry McKenna Single Barrel) Fill a shaker tin with ice and shake for 10 seconds. Strain into a double old fashioned glass. Add fresh ice (we use pebble ice for this drink, but any will do). Garnish with a mint bundle, a thin slice of lemon and an amerena cherry. FOR THE DEMERARA SYRUP • 2 parts Demerara sugar • 1 part water Heat until all the sugar is dissolved. Do not boil.
Beerlandia
Pour It On
The new year is brewing with excitement written by Beau Eastes HELLO 2022, we couldn’t be more excited to see you. After a year in which we saw iconic institutions like Portland Brewing and Bailey’s Taphouse close, as well as the cancellation of most of the state’s annual beer festivals, we’re looking forward to the new year like a bearded man in flannel loves a super danky double IPA. Here’s what we’re giddy about as we roll into 2022: VON EBERT’S ENCORE Arguably no craft brewer in Oregon had a better 2021 than Portland-based Von Ebert Brewing. Less than four years old, Von Ebert was named the 2021 Medium Sized Brewery of the Year by the Oregon Beer Awards, claimed gold in the uber-competitive American IPA category at the 2021 Great American Beer Festival with their Volatile Substance IPA, all the while expanding their popular Heritage Beer Series. It’s a tough act to follow, but no one’s been as innovative as Von Ebert over the past few years, and we can’t wait to see where 2022 takes them.
THE NEW HILLSBREW FESTIVAL Feb. 25 through 27
The brains of the Oregon Brewers Festival want to put on a new craft beer event in Hillsboro? Sign us up. Art Larrance and Teddy Peetz announced in November this new, three-day festival will showcase about thirty breweries and cider houses during the last weekend in
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February in Hillsboro’s new Wingspan Event and Conference Center. Details are coming, but we’re in on just about anything that Larrance, one of the true founders of Oregon’s craft beer culture, is behind.
MORE BREWERY AND FOOD HALL COLLABORATIONS It’s a pretty simple concept: Let breweries do what they do best and let chefs do what they do best all the while sharing a space, and we all win. Our best buddy time this past year was spent at food halls with a craft beer anchor— like Robot Empire Machine in Portland’s Montavilla neighborhood which includes Gigantic Brewing’s second location, their Rocket Room, and at The Grove in Bend, whose bar Waypoint is the new child of Bend Brewing Company coowner Packy Deenihan. Why doesn’t every beer-loving, food cartcraving town have one of these all-weather concepts? Look for Oregon City Brewing’s Canby Beer Library in Canby’s former public library, which is slated to open in 2022 as well as Breakside’s Beaverton location, both of which look to embrace the taproom/food hall idea.
REGIONAL BEER VACATIONS The travel bug hit us hard at Beerlandia this past summer, and we were happy to support some of the emerging craft beer communities just beyond our state borders. In Boise, we immersed ourselves in Barbarian Brewing’s fantastic bottle collection and at Woodland Empire, tasted their revolving Mixtape IPA of the month. (Every other month they release a new Mixtape IPA to highlight the mind-bending number of hop varieties and combinations.) We did a day of research in Reno and fell in love with Lead Dog and Revision. If you’re really adventurous, head to Grant Junction and Fruita, Colorado for a surprisingly great beer scene to go along with some stunning Moablike mountain bike trails without the crowds of Moab. Yakima, Spokane, Eureka—you’re next on our list.
A New Wine Country
Destination A World Away in Walla Walla Beautifully nestled on 300 acres in the rolling wheat fields and vineyards of Washington wine country, Eritage Resort is a tribute to the history, beauty and warmth of Washington’s farms and vineyards. Only minutes from downtown Walla Walla and its regional airport, Eritage features luxury suites opening to patios with expansive views of the Blue Mountains, rolling
Book Your Stay Today 1319 Bergevin Springs Rd. Walla Walla eritageresort.com 509.394.9200 | 1.833.ERITAGE
farmland and a pristine, man-made lake. Dine at Eritage Restaurant, with a menu inspired by the region’s seasonal bounty and strong connections with local family farmers and suppliers. Sip Washington wine, beer and spirits, as well as special selections from around the world. Or head outside and explore the vineyards via cruiser bike, or paddle out onto Lake Sienna.
Eritage Resort is an unparalleled wine country experience.
CRAVINGS: MACARONS
Kris LeBoeuf/Aesthete Tea
NUVREI
Gastronomy
Aesthete Tea
ABOVE Aesthete teas sprung from a family tradition of leveraging its folk healing properties. AT RIGHT Owner Briana Thornton opened Aesthete Teahouse in southwest Portland, offering tea and community.
This modern bakery in the Pearl District offers a contemporary twist on the classic French macaron. They’re known for their buttery croissants, but don’t overlook the belgian chocolate and rose macarons. Delicate and artful, these pastries may be enjoyed in the shop or order online for pick-up, with more flavors being offered just in time for Valentine’s Day. 404 NW 10TH AVE. PORTLAND www.nuvrei.com
written by Lauren Sharp
TOO SWEET CAKES
THE PRODUCT OF a mother daughter partnership, Aesthete is a brand defined by the appreciation of art, nature and beauty with the goal of bringing people together through carefully crafted herbal teas. Owner Briana Thornton and their mother, herbalist Maggie Cassidy, have formed a collaboration that keeps the traditions of folk healing alive in southwest Portland and beyond. The inspiration for Aesthete, a loose-leaf tea purveyor and teahouse, is deep in Thorton’s roots. Growing up, their mother Maggie was constantly mixing her own herbal teas as part of her own studies in herbalism and natural healing. Thorton gained a new appreciation for her mother’s teas while working at a faced-paced advertising agency. Their mother often sent care packages with custom blends offering a range of physical and mental health benefits. Thornton’s friends and colleagues quickly noticed her unusual, aromatic teas and urged them to go into business. Buoyed by mounting support, Thornton founded Aesthete in 2017, first with local distribution in the Pacific Northwest then quickly expanding throughout North America and internationally. All of Thorton’s blends are proprietary, and are entirely crafted by Cassidy. Favorites include Witches Brew, a melange of organic roasted dandelion root, burdock root and chicory for a smoky flavor intended to aid digestion, detoxification and stress relief. The Mint + Coco, a blend of Yunnan black tea, peppermint, coconut flakes and cacao, is reminiscent of a peppermint hot cocoa, blended to support digestion and be mood-lifting, among other benefits. Thornton cares deeply about developing relationships with ethically sourced suppliers and the social impact of the business on the local and global community. As much as possible, Thorton looks to source as close to the Pacific Northwest to reduce their carbon footprint. The most recent expansion of the brand came with the opening of the Aesthete Teahouse, in southwest’s Multnomah Village neighborhood in early fall 2021. Along with several hot tea offerings, Thornton is cultivating a community space, including Sunday afternoon yoga sessions. They’re elated about expanding into healing offerings, such as community sound bath sessions and herbalism workshops at an accessible price. Whether you are a tea connoisseur, or looking for a little more peace in your life, Aesthete has something to offer. Their loose leaf teas are available online or at natural foods retailers.
When it comes to running her business, for pastry chef and owner Shelbi Blok it’s all about expressing love for her customers by crafting intricate desserts. Her attention to detail sets her macarons apart for their vibrant flavors derived from fresh ingredients.
3530 SW MULTNOMAH BLVD. PORTLAND www.aesthetetea.com
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1012 SE CLEVELAND AVE. BEND 5755 WILLOW LANE B1 LAKE OSWEGO www.toosweetcakes.com
PASTRIES BISOUS Salem is a little sweeter with Pastries Bisous. This Frenchinspired bakery serves the capitol’s most authentic rendition of the classic macaron. Savor coffee infused macarons with dark chocolate or fresh lavender macarons filled with white chocolate ganache. Seasonal selections also include nods to the Pacific Northwest, with varieties including marionberry and Oregon strawberry. 315 COMMERCIAL ST. SE SALEM www.pastriesbisous.wixsite. com/shop
food + drink
BEST PLACES FOR
DUMPLINGS North Portland’s XLB, who’s name is a nod to the traditional soup dumpling xiao long bao, serves authentic Chinese comfort food. After his work at Avery put him on the Portland culinary map, chef Jasper Shen partnered with chef Lauren Tren in 2017, and XLB was born. Don’t pass up the five-spice chicken or the pillow-like pork and chive baozi. Currently open for take-out. 4090 N. WILLIAMS PORTLAND www.xlb.com
DIN TAI FUNG This world renowned Taiwanese restaurant in the Portland suburbs doesn’t disappoint. Offering an extensive menu of hand-crafted dumplings, Din Tai Fung adds a twist on classic Xiao Long Bao, including ones with Kurobuta pork and crab or truffle. Open seven days a week on a first come, first serve basis. Don’t worry—it’s worth the wait and as you do, you can watch a line of cooks deftly making each dumpling by hand.
NAMA Raw Bar
XLB
Dining
In Ashland, NAMA Raw Bar oysters sourced from the Northwest have included varieties such as moon rock oysters from Coos Bay and luna bella oysters from Hood Canal.
NAMA Raw Bar written by Lauren Sharp
Savor mouth-watering homemade soup dumplings and noodle bowls at this warm, brick-lined West Eugene eatery. Menu must-haves include panfried pork dumplings, Shanghai steamed, fried baozi and pork wontons. Open for dine-in and takeout Mondays, and Wednesdays through Sundays, 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.
SOUTHERN OREGON’S PALETTE of flavors for the palate just expanded with the fresh addition of NAMA Raw Bar. Founded by acclaimed restaurateur and chef Joshua Dorcak, NAMA is deliciously disrupting the Ashland food scene with minimalist seafood dishes inspired by Japanese and French cuisine. A veteran of the Rogue Valley food scene, Dorcak was raised in a Silicon Valley family that cooked and ate together frequently. This tradition of gathering around homemade, locally sourced dishes prompted him to attend culinary school in his home state of California, and following his graduation, he moved north to work at Ashland’s Amuse, a Northwest-French restaurant. His career took him to Arizona and the Netherlands, but Dorcak returned to the Rogue Valley to open his first restaurant, MÄS in downtown Ashland. Following the national acclaim of this farm-to-table eatery, Dorcak set out to deliver the same excellence in a seafood-forward concept featuring ingredients sourced mainly from the Southern Oregon coast. At the forefront of Dorcak’s menu are fresh oysters seasonally selected from local farmers around the Pacific Northwest. Those have included moon rock oysters from Coos Bay, distinctive for their almost nutty flavor and their deep, quasi bowl-shaped shell. Another is the luna bella oyster raised in the Hood Canal and known for a delicate taste with a punch of brine and a bit of bitter melon finish. NAMA’s large plates menu is a rotation of assorted Pacific Northwest seafood. Popular dishes include albacore tartare topped with green onion, green elderberry and basil salt; marinated scallop with pickled squash and poached scallops in pepper ponzu, and cold smoked trout with pickled red onion and Meyer lemon. The drink menu also draws on Dorcak’s East-meets-West influence, including a wine list featuring champagnes and “pet nat,’’ short for pétillant naturel, a French term that roughly translates to naturally sparkling. At NAMA, a robust variety of sake flows as well, and both pair delightfully with the menu’s offerings.
868 WEST PARK ST. EUGENE www.baobaohouseor.com
140 LITHIA WAY ASHLAND www.namaashland.com
9724 SW WASHINGTON SQUARE RD. TIGARD www.dintaifungusa.com
BAO BAO HOUSE
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2022
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farm to table
Farm to Table
Trout Fishing in Oregon One man’s journey from child angler to fishmonger businessman and sustainable seafood advocate written by Julie Lee
TROUT IS OREGON’S MOST popular fish to catch and eat, with several trout species, both indigenous and adopted decades ago, to pursue. The most common is rainbow trout, which is widely stocked and distributed throughout the state. Redband trout are native to Central Oregon and historically found throughout waters connected to the Deschutes River. Paulina Lake, also in Central Oregon, boasts the state record trophy brown trout, weighing in at more than 28 pounds.
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Trout is generally found in cool streams and lakes, making Oregon a hot spot for this culinary delicacy. Historically, trout was a favorite of Europeans who noted catching it on Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula in 1792, but rainbow trout is native only to North America’s lakes and rivers and a favorite of anglers. Lyf Gildersleeve, president of Flying Fish Company in Portland, is a trout aficionado. Fishing is a family affair for Gildersleeve—his career in the fishing industry started the year before he was born. The year was 1979, and his parents, Sandy and Craig Gildersleeve, launched the first Flying Fish Company in Sandpoint, Idaho. From the time Gildersleeve’s tiny hands could hold a fishing pole, there was one in them. He fished throughout his entire young life, eventually studying aquaculture at Harbor Branch Oceanographic Institute at Florida Atlantic University. What started as born destiny morphed into a family industry. Flying Fish Company expanded across three states and launched dining options, including a food cart in 2010, a fish shack in 2011, a food stand in 2016, finally docking in February 2020 on East Burnside Street in Portland. At the same time, their fisheries are thriving in Portland as well as in Durango, Colorado and Sandpoint, Idaho.
Lyf Gildersleeve, president of Flying Fish Company in Portland, takes his son, Miles, and the family to Oregon lakes for old-fashioned angling.
Gildersleeve’s children, 8-year-old son Miles and 11-year-old daughter Juniper, enjoy family backpacking trips where the sky is blue and the trout are jumping. His son recently caught his first salmon in Alaska, though favorite family destinations are around Mount Hood, at Timothy Lake or Trillium Lake, where lakes are well stocked in spring, for good, old-fashioned angling. Trout fishing isn’t so easy, as Miles discovered on a recent excursion, when, after catching a trout it flew out of his hands. Gildersleeve doesn’t discriminate when it comes to types of fish or shellfish—he buys, sells, cooks and eats all kinds. He is extremely discerning, however, about the sustainability of the fish he buys and sells for his market and restaurant, meaning that it was harvested in a way that doesn’t threaten the ocean’s food supply, consumers’ health or the environment. New shipments of fresh fish, oysters and shellfish are expedited from sustainable suppliers to Flying Fish Company weekly. “One of the most important things, especially as our wild fisheries continue to be challenged, is that customers start paying more attention to where their product is from, and ask questions: Is it local? Is it domestic? Is it healthy to eat?” said Gildersleeve. He said that 90 percent of seafood consumed in the U.S. is imported, even though the country has numerous renowned fisheries. Foreign markets quickly snatch up American seafood, because they’re willing to pay more, Gildersleeve said. Then the U.S., in turn, imports fish that’s so low in quality that isn’t healthy. “There’s a disconnect,” he said. He recommends an easy way for consumers to get answers to three critical questions before consuming fish. First, where is the fish coming from and is it sustainable? Second, is the species environmentally safe to eat? Third, if choosing a farm raised product, how was it raised? Was it enhanced in any way? Was color added? These are all easily answered with a quick search on Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch, www.seafoodwatch.org, a global leader in the sustainable seafood movement, which quickly shows whether a certain type of seafood is a good choice or should be avoided. A Gildersleeve family favorite is trout for these reasons and more. “Trout is awesome,” he proclaimed. “It’s sustainably raised and has year-round availability, making it a stable option.” Where are the best places to catch trout, according to Gildersleeve? “Deschutes is the best place for trout, with its resident population,” he said. “What makes a good resident-trout river is one where the insects thrive, which is what trout eats.” The coast is another great option for trout fishing as well as a farm on Sauvie Island, the Island Springs Hatchery, he said. His business is doing well during the pandemic, with his market sales doubling in the past year. “The biggest challenge in the seafood industry is inventory and pricing—prices have skyrocketed,” he says. Another challenge is that the restaurant industry has been in upheaval, and fish can go bad in a couple of days, making it a sensitive item to list on a menu. Consumer education is an issue, too. “Seafood can be intimidating to cook and is susceptible to overcooking,” Gildersleeve said.
Photos: Natalie Gildersleeve
farm to table
We need only look to Oregon’s cold waters, from the coast to lakes, rivers and at specialized, local markets for some of the finest seafood on the planet—trout.
Many recipes for delicious dishes, however, are easy to try at home. Gildersleeve shared a simple one for Cedar Planked Trout with local Jacobsen Salt Co. Seafood Seasoning and plenty of fresh, aromatic herbs such as parsley, thyme, dill and cilantro. (See pg. 31) A bounty of Oregon Dungeness crab is another reason to put this crustacean on your shopping list. Oregon Dungeness Crab Commission reported that the Dungeness harvesting season opened on December 1—for the first time since 2014. January and February are perfect times to celebrate the confluence of two Oregon seafood greats: an Oregon Dungeness Crab Stuffed Trout recipe, courtesy of Chef Leif Benson, culinary ambassador to the Oregon Dungeness Crab Commission. (See pg. 31) Chef Matt Hobbs with NORR Kitchen, a video and photo production studio and test kitchen turned eatery with fantastic takeout options in Portland, elevates the versatility of trout with his take on it: a recipe for Ocean Trout with Pole Beans, Zucchini, Pistachio Vinaigrette and Sweet and Sour Pomegranate. (See pg. 30) JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2022
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farm to table
Oregon Recipes
Trout Three Ways Ocean Trout with Pole Beans, Zucchini, Pistachio Vinaigrette and Sweet and Sour Pomegranate NORR Kitchen / Portland Matt Hobbs, Christiann Koepke SERVES 4 FOR THE SWEET AND SOUR POMEGRANATE • 2 cups pomegranate juice, reduced to 1 cup and cooled • ¼ cup Champagne vinegar • 3/4 tablespoon Ultratex 3 (a modified tapioca starch) or xanthan gum FOR PISTACHIO VINAIGRETTE • ½ cup pistachios, toasted, lightly chopped • 2 tablespoons shallot, finely minced • ¼ cup olive oil • 2 tablespoon Champagne vinegar • 1½ teaspoons salt FOR OCEAN TROUT, POLE BEANS AND ZUCCHINI • 4 6-oz ocean trout filets, skin on, pine bones removed • 2 cups yellow pole beans, snipped, trimmed, blanched • 2 cups haricot verts, snipped, trimmed, blanched • 2 cups baby zucchini, shaved thin, lengthwise, using a mandoline • ¼ cup shallot, finely minced • 1 tablespoon garlic, minced • 2-3 tablespoons chicken stock • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter • Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper • Grapeseed oil • Pomegranate seeds to garnish FOR THE SWEET AND SOUR POMEGRANATE Place pomegranate juice in a small saucepan over low heat to reduce it to 1 cup. Place in the refrigerator to cool. Place pomegranate juice in a blender along with the Champagne vinegar. Blend until well combined. Continue to blend while slowly sheering in the Ultratex 3 or xanthan gum to avoid clumping.
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Continue to blend on medium-high setting until the mixture is smooth and has thickened to a pudding-like consistency. Remove from the blender using a rubber spatula and set aside. FOR THE PISTACHIO VINAIGRETTE Combine all ingredients in a small mixing bowl and lightly season with kosher salt. Set aside at room temperature until serving. Note: it is best to make this right before serving to keep the pistachios from getting soft, but can be made ahead of time if desired. FOR THE OCEAN TROUT, POLE BEANS AND ZUCCHINI In a large, non-stick skillet over mediumhigh heat add a generous amount of grapeseed oil. Dry the trout filets well with a paper towel and generously season both sides of the filet with kosher salt and white pepper. Place the trout into the pan, skin side down, and gently press flat with a fish spatula to ensure a crispy skin. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cook for 4 minutes, then turn it over and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. In a second pan, over medium-high heat add a small amount of grapeseed oil and add shallots and garlic, letting them sweat until translucent and aromatic. Add the beans and zucchini and sauté until tender. Reduce heat to medium and add stock, reducing it by three quarters. Remove from heat and add butter, and swirl the pan until the butter is melted and combined with the reduced stock. Season with salt. Pool 2 tablespoons of the sweet and sour sauce onto the plate at the far end and drag all the way to the other end using the side of a spoon. Place a pile of the pole beans and zucchini, and place the fish on top of the beans, skin side up. Top with a generous amount of the pistachio vinaigrette and pomegranate seeds.
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farm to table
Cedar Planked Trout
Flying Fish Co. / Portland Lyf Gildersleeve SERVES 2 • 12-inch untreated cedar plank • 8 ounces trout filets or whole fish, gutted • 1/2 teaspoon dry seafood seasonings (such as Old Bay, Jacobsen Salt Co. Seafood Seasoning, black pepper or furikake, a sesame seed and toasted seaweed topping) • 1/2 cup fresh herbs (any combination of cilantro, thyme, dill and parsley) • Finishing salt Soak plank for 30 to 60 minutes. Rinse fish and pat dry with paper towel.
Put on cedar plank skin side down, season with dry seafood seasonings and / or fresh herbs. Preheat grill or oven to medium heat. Place plank directly on grill grates or oven rack. Cook with the lid of grill down for 10-15 minutes, depending on the thickness of filet. Do not flip filet. Fish is done when filet flakes apart with finger pressure. It should appear a bit wet on the inside of filet. (The filet will continue cooking for 5 minutes after you remove it from heat, so don’t overcook it.) Remove entire plank and let it rest for 5 minutes before serving. Serve on cedar plank as the platter.
Oregon Dungeness Crab-Stuffed Trout
Oregon Dungeness Crab Commission / ASTORIA Leif Benson SERVES 4
NORR Kitchen’s ocean trout with pole beans, zucchini, pistachio vinaigrette and sweet and sour pomegranate.
Christiann Koepke
• 1 pound Oregon Dungeness crab meat • ½ cup mayonnaise • 4 tablespoons red onion • 4 tablespoons celery, diced • 2 tablespoons red bell pepper, diced • 2 tablespoons parsley, chopped • 2 tablespoons green onion, minced • 2 tablespoons Old Bay seasoning • 2 tablespoons lemon zest • ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard • ½ teaspoon black pepper • 4 slices bacon, cut into strips • 4 whole trout, cleaned and bones removed • 8 ounces butter, divided into 4 equal pieces
Rinse trout and season well with salt and pepper. Stuff cavities with crab mixture and pats of butter. Top trout with bacon strips and bake in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes or until trout is cooked and crab stuffing is warmed through. Garish with chopped parsley and lemon if desired.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Briefly sauté onions, celery, bell pepper, and let cool. Mix other ingredients—except bacon and trout—to form stuffing.
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Oregon Dungeness crab-stuffed trout. (photo: Leif Benson)
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farm to table
Homegrown Chef
Fisherman’s Blues
SERVES 4 TO 6
written by Thor Erickson photography by Tambi Lane “I’VE GOT ONE!” my friend Thomas yelled from his fishing float tube. “Stop paddling!” he yelled, while frantically reeling in the rainbow trout that he had been waiting for all weekend. Thomas’ flippers had fallen off and were now most likely at the bottom of Paulina Lake. I had hooked up a rope to his float and was paddling furiously, towing him back to shore with my kayak in the sudden rain and ferocious headwind. On cue, my eight-year-old son, also paddling against the wind, threw up his paddle. “I can’t do it anymore,” he said, joining the increasingly impossible tow rope. As I paddled on, feeling as if I was training for “The World’s Strongest Man” competition, I reflected on my friendship with Thomas. Despite the day’s mishaps, Thomas is one of the best fishermen I know. In fact, he’s exceptional at many things. I met Thomas while acting in a local community theater production, and we hit it off instantly. He is a well-known blues musician, having played bass and singing for many blues acts. He is a skilled chess player, mushroom forager, storyteller, cook and best of all, a quick wit. He was the best man at my wedding, and gave an unforgettable toast worthy of a Dean Martin roast. My recollection was soon interrupted. “I’ve got two! There are two fish on the line!” Thomas shouted. Somehow his line with a rainbow trout on it had snagged another line with a second, larger rainbow attached. I put my head down and paddled harder. That night at our campfire, my arms too tired to hold a cast iron skillet, I watched Thomas adeptly prepare the day’s catch, and tell stories of how he would prepare his next. Here’s one of his recipes. 32 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
Thomas’s Smoked Trout
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2022
• 2 pounds trout filets (any type of trout) • 6 cups water • ½ cup kosher salt • ½ cup light brown sugar • Wood chips (Thomas recommends alder) Note: This recipe requires a smoker, such as a Little Chief electric smoker. Combine water, salt and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Stir until salt and sugar are dissolved. Let the brine cool to room temperature. Place fileted fish in a 9-inch by 13-inch pan, pour in the brine and place in the refrigerator for at least six hours or overnight. Drain the brine from the fish. Do not rinse the fish, but dab the excess brine from the fish with a clean kitchen towel or paper towel. Place the fish in the fridge uncovered for 12 hours or overnight to dry. This drying process helps to form what is called pellicle, a matrix of proteins that allows smoke to penetrate the flesh of the fish. Heat smoker to 130 degrees. Place fish in the smoker and smoke for 6 hours. Remove the trout and refrigerate to cool completely. Serve with good bread, crackers or atop a salad.
Smoked Trout Pâte • 1 pound flaked, smoked trout (using Thomas’s Smoked Trout recipe, above) • 3 ounces cream cheese • ½ cup half-and-half • 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish • 1 tablespoon lemon juice • 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper • 2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley • ¼ teaspoon minced fresh thyme Place all ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until blended. Scrape sides with a plastic spatula and pulse one more time. Refrigerate, covered, until serving. Serve on good bread or crackers with some pickles or tart jam.
farm to table
Smoked Trout Pâte is always great to have at the ready for hors d’oeuvres or a luxurious snack.
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home + design
Home + Design
Art, Color and Fun Paint, wallpaper and accessories transform a West Slope home to reflect vibrant family life written by Melissa Dalton WHEN SUZY and Jonas Greenberg were looking for a new home for their family of five, they didn’t want a big project that would require knocking down walls or gutting rooms. So, finding this 1959 house in West Slope, a suburb of Portland, was a perfect match. The previous homeowners had already done all of the dusty work of remodeling, updating key rooms without robbing the home of its mid-century charm.
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home + design
Christopher Dibble
Wallpaper from Portland’s Makelike Studio lends style with hand-screen printing and a pop of color.
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home + design
“Mid-century Modern with a side of hot sauce. Just a little spice. We don’t take ourselves too seriously.”
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT This West Slope dining nook has hues of pink, green, plum and blue. The living room’s mid-century chairs and burlwood table are balanced with a colorful rug. A kitchenette supplies family snacks, with Fireclay tile and bright blue grout. Death Star drawer knobs and pops of color keep the boys’ bathroom fun.
— Jonas Greenberg, on his family’s interior design style Take the kitchen. White flat-front cabinets topped with white quartz counters and pale wood floors ran throughout the main floor. The room was modern, had a good layout and plenty of storage. “It was very beautiful, but very white,” observed interior designer Mandy Riggar, who helped the couple tailor the home to their tastes. While it didn’t need a top-to-bottom remodel, it begged for personalization, which Riggar accomplished with a strategic layering of color, furniture and accessories. The goal was, said Riggar: “We have this beautiful, white home. Where do we add the color, and where do we add personality?” Riggar had previously worked with Jonas at Nike, before opening her own interiors firm, called Mandy Riggar Interiors, and she knew the Greenbergs socially. “They’re just a vibrant, loving family, and they like to have a lot of fun in life,” said Riggar. “So, I knew that they would want their home to be that way, too.” That comes across just in how the Greenbergs describe their style: “Mid-century Modern with a side of hot sauce. Just a little spice,” said Jonas. “We don’t take ourselves too seriously.” Starting in the kitchen, the group left the main workspace alone, instead focusing on an adjacent dining nook. Riggar covered a large expanse of wall in the stairwell with a playful wallpaper from the Portland-based Makelike studio. The pattern’s pink, green, plum and blue hues became the color palette for the rest of the room’s additions, including the grass green Industry West chairs, two-toned window seat cushion and pink pendant light over the table, the latter which “is the only piece of white furniture that we bought,” said Riggar. While injecting more color was a priority, so too was making everything family friendly. To that end, a nearby loveseat from Blu-Dot sits in a main thoroughfare: the couch is armless, and allows the three kids to squeeze in together. The dining chairs are hard-wearing acrylic with leather seats, making them easily “wipeable,” said Riggar. In the boys’ bedrooms and bathroom, color and durability got equal attention. Each child got to pick a theme for their room— from Hot Wheels to the family library—and the bathroom went from basic to something more special. The original marbletopped vanity and chrome faucets, “felt too traditional for three boys,” said Riggar. The interior designer applied a bright green “Matcha Latte” paint hue from Clare on the vanity, then combined it with blue mirrors from Schoolhouse and new sconces, 36 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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faucets and cabinet hardware. “The boys are all into Star Wars, and by boys, I mean the kids and my husband,” said Suzy. “And Mandy found us Death Star drawer knobs.” “Mandy did a great job of understanding us,” said Jonas. “And then staying on-brief in terms of fun and pops of color.” In the basement family room, there’s a massive sectional bought from the previous homeowners, with a multi-functional kitchenette nearby, which supplies everything from family movie nights, to breaks during the work day, since both parents have
Photos: Christopher Dibble
home + design
offices downstairs. Riggar kept the existing cabinet and counter setup, but added new Fireclay tile with a mid-century shape to the backsplash, using custom bright blue grout to highlight the tile. Everything from the candy jars on the floating shelves, to the vintage Kat and Maouche rug, and soft accessories like new pillows and a blue ottoman, punch up the couch’s neutral base. In the formal living room, Riggar brought in architectural pieces, such as mid-century chairs and a burlwood coffee table, then balanced them with a colorful rug. The finishing
piece is a large painting by a Colombian artist, which Jonas had bought years ago, its colors matching perfectly with the room’s new hues. “It really just became an exercise in having fun, and making it feel like our home,” said Jonas, which is just what Riggar set out to accomplish. “I was presented with a beautiful home that doesn’t need a lot of updates, it just needed personality,” said Riggar. “Paint, wallpaper and light fixtures can go a long way to update everything and make it feel like your own.” JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2022
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Photos: Devin Tolman
home + design
Portland’s Sanctuary Saunas distributes barrel saunas from a U.S.-based manufacturer that partners with a Finnish company, Harvia Oy. They can fit up to six people and come in fir and cedar.
DIY: Install a Barrel Sauna in the Backyard JESSICA KELSO opened Löyly, a sauna-centric day spa with two locations in Portland, in 2006, but that didn’t stop her from installing a barrel sauna behind her house nine years ago. “I love all saunas, whether public or private,” said Kelso. “So, of course, I love being tucked into my own little sauna in my backyard.” Kelso’s newest endeavor is Sanctuary Saunas, which distributes barrel saunas from Almost Heaven, a U.S.-based manufacturer that partners with Finnish company Harvia Oy. Sanctuary Sauna offers barrel saunas with or without a canopy, and range in size to fit up to six people and are available in rustic fir, rustic red cedar, or clear red cedar. Kelso likes them so much that she now has two at home. “I’m a sauna professional, I’m allowed to have two saunas,” said Kelso with a laugh. Her experience comes in handy when offering tips on building a barrel sauna. “Shockingly, I’ve had worse Ikea projects,” said Kelso. “I’ve put together a lot of saunas at this point. You just need a handful of basic tools.” 38 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Sanctuary Saunas’ barrel saunas range from $3,941 to $5,396 and upwards of $12,000, depending on features, but the cost to run a sauna, once installed, is minimal.
home + design
BUDGET, TIME AND MONEY The barrel sauna arrives as a modular kit, and Kelso estimated that it takes about two half-days to put it together. Almost Heaven’s saunas come with a heater manufactured by Harvia Oy, and will require certain wiring. (Kelso recommends an electric sauna for city use.) Have a licensed electrician evaluate the existing electrical panel to make sure there’s space, and get an estimate for how much additional capacity will cost. The cost to run a sauna, once installed, is minimal, said Kelso. PICK A SPOT The sauna requires a flat, level surface, such as a gravel area, a concrete pad or a deck that can support the weight of the sauna and people inside. When placing the sauna, think about whether proximity to the house is important, as well as sight lines from neighbors. BUILD The sauna kit includes detailed instructions. The tools needed range from a cordless drill and rubber mallet, to a hammer, framing square and screwdrivers. Start by assembling the support cradles, then construct the barrel on the cradles, and add the exterior straps. The benches come last, followed by mounting the heater and adding rocks. COVER “I like to talk to Oregonians about adding some sort of rain cover, or putting little shingles on,” said Kelso, which protects the sauna from the elements. RELAX Try the traditional sauna practice: a quick shower or dip, followed by five-to-fifteen minutes in the sauna, followed by another cool dip. Repeat as needed. A kit from Sanctuary Saunas includes sauna stones, two robes, a stainless-steel water bucket and ladle, wall thermometer, and a eucalyptus, pine and rosemary blend sauna oil, similar to what makes Löyly smell so divine. “I’ve gotten really sweet emails and phone calls, just people saying how much it has improved their overall quality of life,” said Kelso. “It’s like a little escape pod to have at your house.”
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home + design
More Color Infuse hues at home with rugs, textiles, art For a one-of-a-kind, vintage Berber rug, look no farther than the Portland-based Kat and Maouche, run by a Berber-American family that sources directly from Moroccan locals. The rugs are “slow art knotted by hand,” making them a truly special addition to any room. www.katandmaouche.com Portland’s Makelike Studio produces hand-screen printed wallpaper, textiles and small goods, much of it a feast of color and nature-inspired patterns, from prickly cactuses to swaying underwater life, to Riggar’s pick, the Monument, which reminds us of rock formations at the Oregon coast.
Aaron Marineau Photography
www.makelike.com
With names like “Sriracha” and “Rosé Season,” Clare paint offers a little cheekiness alongside their bright shades. They also promise to simplify the paint shopping process, with peeland-stick paint swatches, high-quality painting supplies and designer-curated colors, all delivered to your door. www.clare.com
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The artwork of Ana Clerici is characterized by bright color, strong feminine forms, and visible brush strokes, even in the prints. The Womens Day Art Print is no exception, and homeowner Suzy Greenberg has since moved the print from the basement bar to her office, where it’s constantly complimented during Zoom calls. www.iamfy.co
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mind + body
Snow Runners Trail runners offer tips and inspiration for running all winter long written by Cathy Carroll ABIGAIL STOCKAMP had been an athlete throughout high school and ran cross-country in college, but after she graduated, she felt burned out and took a break from it. When she moved to Bend in June in 2019, however, she discovered its seemingly endless mountain trails, and she fell in love with running on them. “I’m pretty independent, and so I like to run alone in the woods a lot and without a care in the world,” she said. When winter arrived, she didn’t want to run on the roads. “I liked running on the trails in the snow, so that was my first experience, and I thought, ‘This is really intense.’ Being a college athlete, after taking a break, I was like, ‘I’m running really slow,’ or ‘Six miles is hard now.’ So I just kind of let myself just feel whatever I felt like running and not really put any pressure on it. Winter running is not about speed, it’s about getting out there for the adventure.” As she was falling more deeply in love with trail running in Bend, she also fell in love with another local runner, Mark Stockamp. “I’d always wanted to get into ultra trail running, but was pretty intimidated by it. Then meeting Mark and dating and getting married—he’s taught me a lot about running really far.”
Still relatively new to Central Oregon’s dry climate and the snow, she didn’t have good technical gear. “I didn’t really have good running gloves, so I’d just wear socks on my hands, and over time I’ve definitely evolved,” she said. “I’m a very sweaty runner, even in winter and so I’ve learned that jackets that almost act as trash bags, that are waterproof, helped keep me warm.” She’s found Columbia Sportswear’s Omni-Heat gear’s thermal-reflective tech works best for her along with the lightweight warmth of a jacket from the brand Rabbit Running. She relies on the lugs on the soles of trail-running shoes to give her traction on snow, as she sticks to trails and doesn’t run much on roads, even in winter. Mark Stockamp, however, prefers using a technique for running on snow that he learned when he used to work at FootZone in downtown Bend, called screwing your shoes. Using a power drill, he attaches screws to the bottom of a pair of running shoes, allowing them to grip ice and snow, just as studded tires do. He finds screws work better than coiled traction and nanospike systems that strap onto the bottoms of shoes, because screws don’t slide when you hit a bare patch.
ABOVE With some functional gear, a few screws in your shoes and a bit of inspiration from trail runners, getting out on the snow can be cool fun.
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Photos: Mark Stockamp
mind + body
ABOVE, FROM LEFT Abigail Stockamp (right) relies on trail running shoes and functionally warm gear for hitting the snow with Katie Kammer in Central Oregon. Put screws in your shoes for traction on snow and ice and you won’t slide on bare spots. Bend’s Mark Stockamp does 100-mile runs for charity.
He recommends using carbide screws, drilling eight to ten (depending on the size of your shoe) outlining the sole with a pair on either side of the upper area, skipping the middle section and inserting another pair around the heel. FootZone in Bend can help, and multiple online videos can guide you, too. “Honestly, you can run on top of ice and have confidence with those, and that’s what I screw into my shoes and it costs about $10,” he said. You can even remove the screws and use them on the road in spring without affecting the integrity of the shoe. Use fairly new road running shoes rather than trail running shoes, which have thick soles with lugs. “You don’t want to do it with a pair of completely worn out shoes, because that’s one of the worst things you can do for your running and walking is just being in really old shoes,” Stockamp said. “I usually use a shoe that’s had a little life out of it and I just put a set of screws in those.”
You can likely reuse the screws for a couple winters. “It’s going to be a lot less expensive than going to the physical therapist because you slipped on ice. It’s really an affordable option, and it gives you that peace of mind.” Walking is not as aggressive a motion as running, so smaller, even less expensive sheet-metal screws work well for that. The Stockamps run together throughout winter, training for ultra running events in summer. For Mark, those are events he has launched, combining his two passions—running and charitable fundraising. During the pandemic, when many races were canceled, Mark began doing 100-mile runs raising money for to organizations such as the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society, Cerebral Palsy Foundation and NeighborImpact, which helps people and strengthens Central Oregon communities by supplying assistance with food, housing, bill paying and early childhood education programs.
“I liked running on the trails in the snow, so that was my first experience, and I thought, ‘This is really intense.’ Being a college athlete, after taking a break, I was like, ‘I’m running really slow,’ or ‘Six miles is hard now.’ So I just kind of let myself just feel whatever I felt like running and not really put any pressure on it. Winter running is not about speed, it’s about getting out there for the adventure.” — Abigail Stockamp, on running in winter after moving to Bend
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artist in residence
Written In Paint Drea Rose Frost speaks the language of the north Oregon coast—on canvas written and photographed by Daniel O’Neil IN THE FOREST behind Cannon Beach, in a room without much more than a table, an easel, brushes, acrylic paints and a cushioned stool, Drea Rose Frost paints with the natural daylight filtering through the window behind her. When she opens that window, she can feel the Pacific, its scent in the damp air, its luring boom of whitewater and green curling faces of waves in the distance. Each day, Frost is at that easel, often with her hair wet from surfing or from the rain, as she translates the coastal moods, colorfully, in a language of her own. She knows her muse. The artist engages with the ocean on a primal level, immersed in northern Oregon’s chilly, sharky waters, and she rides its energy on classic Harbour longboards. Driving that coast in her latest white Ford Econoline, named Beluga, there’s a bed in back in case she needs to camp. Frost cruises the shoreline observing how people interact with the Pacific. Then she’ll recreate what she’s witnessed—orange crab-buoys and raingear-clad fishermen, surfboards, lighthouses and beaming red hulls of boats. Adding color to the shadows, Frost speaks the coastal dialect in paint. Round face beaming and rosy, eyes squinting in a perpetual smile and reddish-brown hair tied up on top, Frost laughs from the driver’s seat of Beluga. She’s parked in Cannon Beach, close to where she lives. A black artist’s apron slouches into her lap. She’s pranking crows with a crow call she bought for company during Covid isolation. Then, looking at the seascape, she said, “Close your eyes for a second and then open them. Don’t you see a magenta cast on everything?” The world looks different through her lens. Born in 1979, she grew up in rural Colorado, in Fruita, on the outskirts of Grand Junction. As a kid she wandered around the Colorado River and its creeks, and she hiked often in the Colorado National Monument. “I think the connection I developed with nature has stuck with me throughout my life,” she said. “Nothing fills me with more awe and wonder than what can be found in wild spaces.” The winds took her west after high school. “When I moved to Oregon as a teen, I felt this massive draw to the forests and the ocean,” said Frost. “It was like moving to a fantasy land of AT RIGHT Through riding longboards, artist Drea Rose Frost connects with the coast, then interprets her insight with brush and paint.
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artist in residence
“I think the connection I developed with nature has stuck with me throughout my life. Nothing fills me with more awe and wonder than what can be found in wild spaces.” — Drea Rose Frost
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Artwork: Drea Rose Frost
artist in residence
Drea Rose Frost calls her style contemporary impressionism, and her work has won accolades and sells in fine art galleries along the coast.
ferns, giant green trees and rocky ocean monoliths.” In the late ’90s, she landed in Portland and liked it for a while. She eventually enrolled at the recently closed Oregon College of Arts and Crafts, on a scholarship in the photography and fiber arts series. She never took a painting class. “I loved attending art school, but I was definitely wishing it was located at the coast,” she said. The college did offer a serene, century-old campus reminiscent of the beach: gray cedar-sided buildings under tall Douglas firs and tree-like rhododendrons. But the ocean remained 80 miles away. “So I picked up this creepy white cargo van for dirt cheap, and I built a bed and interior surfboard racks. I was feeling the pull of that salt air and I recoiled at the idea of living inland any longer.” She drove back and forth, shuttling like a crab—to school, to surf, to school and west again. But she didn’t find satisfaction in this split existence. In 2012, before graduating, she moved to Seaside. Two years later, Frost earned her bachelor’s of fine arts, which meant she didn’t need to drive east anymore, just north and south, in search of waves, beauty and lives to portray. Dennis Smith, owner of Seaside Surf Shop, hired Frost when she finished school. “Drea kind of floats in the wind,” he said. “She’s got a very positive, curious attitude and outlook on life, 46 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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and she captures the raw realism of the people and nature here, for sure.” Her palette carries the coast’s heavy and weightless attributes. Bright colors breach the thick hues of forest, ocean and storm clouds. Contemporary impressionism, Frost calls her style. Natural and human-made patterns and geometric forms blend into her work, which has won accolades and sells in fine art galleries from Astoria to Cannon Beach and south. “Drea has a huge range as an artist,” said Kate Speranza, a friend and colleague who works at RiverSea Gallery in Astoria, which represents some of Frost’s art. “I’m always inspired by the work that she makes. It’s very recognizable scenery and very location-specific.” A while back, Frost painted a dory boat and fisherman, which became the cover art for a locally published book on those two subjects. Speranza owns the painting, and likes that Frost is always upbeat. “I find a lot of inner peace creating a language through brushstrokes,” said Frost. “I think it’s the color that enchants me the most with painting. Who needs words when you have colors? They say everything. Colors sing next to each other and express for me what words can’t. They can evoke emotions, and isn’t that amazing? All from a little tube.”
NEW EXHIBIT JAN 29–SEPT 25, 2022 HIGHDESERTMUSEUM.ORG
WHAT’S GOING UP 50 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 52 MY WORKSPACE 54
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GAME CHANGER 56
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what’s going up?
In the Newberg Airpark, Longplay Wine’s sleek, modern, industrial style space reflects its tagline: “analog wine for a digital world— no overdubbing, no remixing.”
Space to Taste Tasting rooms are blossoming throughout wine country and beyond, with no sign of a slowdown written by Cathy Carroll
ON THE HEELS of soaring wine sales—with safe sipping, solo or in safety pods—now in the rearview mirror, there’s a new trend in town and it’s oh so much better. Fresh concepts for tasting rooms are bearing fruit all around. Our list goes to eleven:
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1: Willamette Valley Vineyards is opening a new winery in the Dundee Hills and sister sipping spots in four cities. Anticipated to open this year, Domaine Willamette will produce worldclass méthode Traditionnelle sparkling wines with an underground aging cellar at the biodynamically-farmed Bernau Estate Vineyard in the Dundee Hills of Dayton. Oregon-inspired hospitality will reign with wine and food pairings, stunning views, educational tours and beautiful gardens to explore. Four winery restaurants are in the works, following a successful pilot
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restaurant, Willamette Wineworks in Folsom, California. A few details on the newcomers from this legacy vineyard: • Lake Oswego Tasting Room & Restaurant, set to open this winter in downtown Lake Oswego with food and wine pairings, a trellis patio and fire pit, wine lockers for owners’ selections and a private wine-cellar dining room. • Vancouver Waterfront Tasting Room & Restaurant, with views of the Columbia River, will show off seven Washington wineries, and Willamette Valley Vineyards will be the
what’s going up?
Willamette Valley Vineyards’ Vancouver Tasting Room & Restaurant is one of four that the legacy winery will open this year and next, along with a new winery in the Dundee Hills. In Vancouver, it’s the first Oregon winery to be represented in a new space in Washington with views of the Columbia River.
first from Oregon. WVV’s space will open this year. • Just outside Portland in Happy Valley, Happy Valley Tasting Room & Restaurant is designed with a large outdoor patio, water feature and an opening date for late 2022. • At Bend Tasting Room & Restaurant, anticipated to open in 2023 in downtown Bend, wine country makes a date with this destination mountain town. 2: In the core of downtown Bend in the D.H. Spheir Building on the National
Register of Historic Places, Domaine Serene Wine Lounge opened in December with a menu inspired by the wines of Domaine Serene, Château de la Crée and Maison Evenstad. It’s the third wine lounge for Domaine Serene, based in the Dundee Hills of Dayton. In Bend, an oversized fireplace warms cool evenings and accordionstyle windows will open to outdoor seating in warmer months. Local music will happen throughout the week. A mezzanine for wine club members will have wine lockers for collectors and connoisseurs seeking to store their wines for private dining and entertaining. Expect refined rustic accents throughout three levels, a two-story display holding wine bottles and the Cellar Library with turn-of-the-century ambiance for private events.
it into a gracious tasting spot with a patio, appealing fire pit and lovely views. Stroll a few minutes through the vineyard en route to The Allison Inn & Spa. It’s a fitting move from a fifth-generation Oregon agricultural family.
3: Distaff Wine Company is one of two new tasting rooms in the Newberg Airpark, pouring lesser-known wines from its venue in a converted airplane hangar. The all-female-run label is the work of the wife and daughters of former Owen Roe vintner David O’Reilly.
10: Andante Vineyard’s tasting room opens in January, and a covered patio with a wood-fired pizza oven and outdoor kitchen is slated to open in spring. It is designed to invoke Dallas’s rolling hills of vines, wheat and cattle ranching. The aim is a comfortable, restorative and authentic experience and a sense of connection to the land, reflecting the wines’ expression and the proprietors’ hospitality.
4: Longplay Wine, just down the road from Distaff, is pouring its chardonnays and pinot noirs from a sleek, modern industrial production space, positioning guests closer to the winemaking process. 5: Rain Dance Vineyards restored a gorgeous, 1916 Victorian home and carriage house in Newberg and converted
6: Cooper Mountain Vineyards, a family-run, organic, biodynamic winery has acquired both the storied Chehalem Mountain Vineyard, and ArborBrook Vineyard, where the tasting room will be renovated for a grand reopening Memorial Day weekend in Newberg. 8: Sidereus Vineyard in Cornelius is a new part of a growing winemaking community less than 30 miles from Portland. 9: Open Claim Vineyard near Dallas is set to open a new tasting room.
11: Alloro Vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains has a new space in a Mediterranean-inspired stone building, for tasting wine made from fruit grown on the picturesque, 110-acre estate in Sherwood.
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Flynn Nyman
what i’m working on
Chemist May Nyman saw “some really strange reactions” under her microscope that led to a $24 million research grant which could aid the climate crisis.
Scrubbing Out a Climate Crisis A stunning observation through this OSU professor’s microscope attracts millions for its climatechange solution potential interview by Kevin Max
IN SEPTEMBER, Oregon State University organic chemistry professor May Nyman was selected as a leader of a $24 million grant from the Department of Energy, a federal initiative to extract carbon from the air. Her research centers on how some transition metals can react with air and neutralize carbon dioxide into an environmentally harmless state. We caught up with Professor Nyman to understand the implications of her research from the lens of a climate crisis. 52 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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What is your area of study in chemistry? I am an inorganic chemist and a materials chemist. I describe inorganic as basically all of the periodic table except for that carbon stuff that the organic chemists deal with. It’s a chemistry of metals, which is really the majority of the periodic table. My research group is interested in doing fundamental chemistry, and this means learning and discovering new things about the periodic table. These metals in the middle of the periodic chart are called the transition metals because of the way the electrons behave.
put into the beaker and it’s like, okay, so where did this carbonate come from? And the answer is from carbon dioxide in the air.
Why the transition metals? We study metal oxides for both fundamental understanding, as well as for applications, and some applications that we have been interested in are related to nuclear energy and nuclear fuel.
What do you imagine are the commercial applications of your research? I compare it to what are called amines, which have been used to scrub the exhaust or the output from factories. So this traditional process is more like two amines per one carbon dioxide molecule. So, theoretically if we can do a ratio of up to four to one, that means there’s basically four positions where it can bond to the carbon dioxide.
You made a discovery while studying transition metals and uranium. I’ve observed this phenomena with my own eyes and hands when I used to do my own lab work back in 2010. A certain form of uranium, depending on which of the alkalis it was associated with—potassium, sodium and cesium—it would undergo some really strange reactions that I still don’t fully understand but am starting to. The end product was a carbonate form. So no carbonate was
It didn’t end there, though. No, this got me thinking, ‘I wonder if the transition metals similar to uranium would do the same thing.’ And so I started digging through some old literature from the 1980s, and there was some description of this kind of behavior. When I saw the call for the Department of Energy proposal, I was inspired to look into this a little more.
How did it feel when you found out you won the grant? It’s something I’ve had a goal to accomplish since I came to Oregon State in 2012. In that sense, it was a dream come true. And the opportunity to work on the project and just succeeding, it all felt awesome.
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my workspace
Hat Trick
Ashland outdoors retailer Sunday Afternoons doesn’t put a lid on innovation written by Kevin Max
Angeline and Robbin Lacy began their business thirty years ago with an outdoor blanket they’d designed for their family adventures, but it was the fabric scraps that built the Ashland-based company. They began making high quality hats from the scraps.
Today, Sunday Afternoons is focused on innovation and hats. The company has forty-five patents for inventions such as a sunglass lock, which is two narrow pockets on the sides of a hat that hold the arms of sunglasses in place, and a split brim that allows for easy folding and packing. They sell their hats in fifty-seven countries.
Prior to becoming Sunday Afternoons CEO, Sarah Sameh was working in the outdoor retail sector and was intrigued by the brand and where it could go. “I had known about Sunday Afternoons and, by chance, met Robbin at a bike shop in Talent, and we got to chatting and reflecting on what was next for the company and how to get to the next level,” Sameh said. “I started in 2015 and thought I’d be there just a couple of years, and it has been six, and here I am.”
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my workspace
Sameh said, “So many things inspire me about Sunday Afternoons—the exceptionally strong and talented people who work here and their commitment to delivering an incredible product.” (The hats come with a lifetime guarantee.)
What’s next? “We are focused on processes to scale to the next level and making sure that our supply chain is in line with its environmental values,” Sameh said.
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game changer Sixth, seventh and eighth graders participate in a field trip with ECO educators in November.
World Class ECO drives a new model of climate change education
Tim LaBarge
written by Kevin Branaghin
THE IDEA FOR nonprofit ECO, Ecology for Classrooms & Outdoors, hatched in 2005 when friends Sarah Woods and Bethany Shetterly were volunteering as environmental educators. They identified a gap in primary education and a growing need among students who were increasingly interested in environmental studies. “They wanted to expand environmental education and do field trip programs to educate elementary youth in the Portland Metro area,’ said Monica Smiley, ECO director of development and communication. “Since then, they developed an organization and programs that serve elementary students with handson field trips and in-classroom educational lessons. At this point, ECO has served about 32,000 students.” ECO developed and has always used a model of direct service, one that sends its own educators into classrooms to teach the curriculum and lead the service aspects of the program, too. The restrictions and regulations related to Covid, however, meant that schools were empty and field trips canceled. The model was broken. The ECO team had a fundamental decision to make—change how they deliver education and service, or cease critical environmental education for Oregon students. “When you take a relational model and put it on the internet, in some cases, it doesn’t work so well,” said Smiley. “What has worked well is that there’s been this long-held dream for ECO of creating a curriculum that is a model for training the educator. So we’ve created a series of 56
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curriculum kits and educational tools that can be used by teachers themselves.” Of all oddities, Oregon schools teach little, if any, courses on climate change, though it remains as the greatest existential threat to Americans and all people. It’s not required for students whose lives will be defined by it. California and Washington schools, however, have climate action as part of their core curriculum, she said. In this crisis came an opportunity for ECO. During the pandemic, ECO made lemonade from lemons and created a slate of programs that will soon be used by teachers in Portland. “Right now, there’s a critical momentum behind climate action and education,” Smiley said. “We were listening and we said, ‘We’re environmental educators. What can we do?’” ECO is in the final stages of creating a new curriculum that addresses the root causes and systems that contribute to greater levels of carbon dioxide emissions, and will put that in the hands of teachers. “Oregon students can understand the systems driving climate change and work to change those systems,” Smiley added. Though Smiley has only been with ECO for less than a year, the veteran of nonprofits said it was the depth of ECO’s relationships with schools, teachers and students and the new climate action curriculum that inspires her. ECO is wholly supported by local government grants, foundations and individual donors. To support ECO, go to www.ecologyoutdoors.org.
Visit EatOregonSeafood.org or search #EatOregonSeafood to learn more, and find out how to get your hands on our claws.
GLOBAL FLAVORS e Th
OF PORTLAND
In America’s darling of the dining scene, the world lands on your fork written by Julie Lee
WHEN THE CULINARY SCENE in Portland amped up in the early 2000s, the keystone to international recognition was flavorful dishes that chefs created which were ingenious to anywhere but the Northwest. The secret to the recipe, though, was the collective passion to source local ingredients. Of the more renowned chefs, Andy Ricker became internationally famous for what he could do with a chicken wing. Pok Pok was one of the first of many foodie favorites that started as a food truck, garnered international acclaim, and put Portland front and center on the gastronomic map for occasional diners and food snobs alike. In the pandemic’s wake, the restaurant industry has suffered dearly, with decades of hard work and fame wiped out. While Portland lost some renowned chefs including Ricker, many food carts, restaurants and marketplaces are making it—serving up homage to heritage, offering a globe’s worth of authentic, diverse dishes. And that’s cause for celebration. Here’s an invitation to the party. Consider this an amuse bouche—hardly an exhaustive list. We promise some greats are left for you to discover, too. AT RIGHT At Fish Sauce, send your palate on a trip with, clockwise from top left, chuối chiên; pork bánh mì; bún vermicelli; gỏi cuốn; Botta’s Favorite with grilled shrimp, fried egg, jasmine rice and nước mắm; and the Fortune & Glory cocktail with rum, mint, hibiscus and lime. (photo: Aubrie LeGault)
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When the authors of Modernist Pizza deemed Portland the best pizza in America, Portlandia and New Yorkers alike went bonkers. Senti, amici: the Italian scene in Portland is fierce with competition with too many worthy entries to list, so here are just a few must-tries.
Caffe Mingo
Ava Gene’s
Simple is best, and owner Michael Cronin’s motto of “simple Italian cooking” proves it. Cronin is a long-hauler in the restaurant game, weathering many ups and downs in the past two decades, so when he realized this pandemic might be years not months, he got busy. Cronin has a mini-empire with three restaurants, so for his Northwest 21st locations, he played his hand and built an outdoor seating area for Bar Mingo, and turned Caffe Mingo into The Mercato, a European-style café and market. He played the catand-mouse game with openings and closings as dictated by the state with his Mingo in Beaverton. All locations are now thriving and healthy.
This longtime favorite recently reopened to the applause of the foodie community, offering seasonal multicourse seatings on select evenings. Newer to the scene is next-door sister restaurant Cicoria Pizzeria, with indoor and outdoor seating, a bar and award-worthy pizza.
Nostrana Cathy Whims is a mainstay in the original rat pack of award-winning Portland chefs, and she has stuck it out through these pandemic years, luckily for us. With fresh mozzarella made daily, handmade gnocchi, and a Neapolitan pie that landed national accolades, Nostrana is l’ultimo.
DON’T MISS: Allora, Gilda’s Italian Restaurant & Lounge, Serratto Restaurant and Bar, DeCarli Restaurant, Gino’s, Piazza Italia, and if great pies are your thing: Apizza Scholls, Ken’s Artisan Pizza, Red Sauce Pizza and Lovely’s Fifty Fifty.
Nostrana’s goat cheese-stuffed pappardelle with sage butter and wild mushrooms. (photo: John Valls)
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VIETNAMESE
ITALIAN
With so many heralded Vietnamese restaurants in Portland and surrounding areas, it’s hard to choose. So, we tapped the expertise of local Vietnamese food aficionado Hà Tống for a short list of authentic favorites.
Mama Dút For vegetarians, Mama Dút is the spot, serving gluten free and inspired vegan dishes. Named after a beloved, frequent dialogue between owner Thuy Pham and her daughter Kinsley, Mama Dút literally means “mama will feed you.”
soup, or if luck fails, head to nearby sister restaurant Rose VL Deli.
Mekha
Tân Tân Café & Delicatessen This gem in Beaverton is well known for its extensive variety of authentic soups and rice dishes. “Be sure to try the vermicelli, and save room for crepes,” said Tống. This familyowned, local favorite launched a line of locally made Vietnamese sauces based on family recipes, including peanut sauce, Hoisin and the seriously popular Mom’s Hot Chili Sauce.
Mekha on Sandy Boulevard in Portland has the best Phnom Penh noodle soup (with rice or egg noodles), according to Tống. “Also good here is the crispy chicken with fish sauce,” she said. MeKha makes a fresh batch of broth daily and has a second location in the city on SE Division Street.
Utopia Restaurant and Lounge
According to Tống, “Phở soup is a staple in Vietnamese culture, and Phở Oregon is a favorite—phở soups here are a good size and delicious.” Phở Oregon has nearly 100 menu items, so there is something for every taste.
If you crave a top notch spicy noodle soup (bun bo hue), fried rice, crispy chicken and cháo long (a traditional Vietnamese rice soup made with pork organ meats), you’ll reach utopia here. The setting is straightforward, and cred comes with a menu that has English translations in parentheses.
Ha’ VL + Rose VL Deli
Phở Van
Ha’ VL is perhaps the most wellknown and therefore worst kept secret in town for delicious Vietnamese food. Family patriarch William Vuong once worked for the CIA, and his American connections landed him in a Vietnamese prison for a decade. Now, his son Peter Vuong runs point as chef in a family business that has accumulated high fives from food writers across the country. Plan to arrive early or even line up before opening to strike gold and get a legendary, piping bowl of their daily
Phở Van is one of the originals in Portland, well known in the Vietnamese community but with food that leans toward a more American taste. “Ambiance is nice though, and they boast a very flavorful grilled fish,” said Tống.
Phở Oregon
A bá bub nh mì a ble nd Best tea fro m Bag ue (pho to: C tte. a r ly Diaz )
Mama Dút’s Thuy Pham. (photo: Emily Joan Greene)
ALSO CHECK OUT: Bambu Desserts & Drinks, Bui Natural Tofu, Cuốn (pronounced “coon”)—Vietnamese Street Food, Best Baguette and Banh Mi Up.
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THAI/ASIAN The New York Times inducted Portland as one of two cities (Los Angeles is the other) that stirred up America’s Thai food rebirth. With notable chefs such as Earl Ninsom, Nong Poonsukwattana and Andy Ricker showering the city with inspired Thai dishes for decades, Portland is blessed with a residual rainfall of great food carts and restaurants.
Aji Tram We weren’t sure which category to put Aji Tram under, as it’s the best example of Asian fusion to hit the Portland area, well, ever. Owner Eric Mann and his team blend tastes from diverse cultures to great ends. Off the beaten path in Lake Oswego, with stylish décor that isn’t overdone, Aji Tram is one of those restaurants you want to go steady with after the first date.
City Thai Tucked away in a strip mall near Ida B. Wells High School, City Thai is a linchpin for delicious Thai cuisine 62 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
that isn’t overplayed. Simple, fresh, classic dishes grace the menu, and the pad Thai is a must.
Kinara Thai The Goose Hollow neighborhood in Southwest Portland boasts one of the city’s best Thai restaurants. It’s a tiny spot with big flavors. Favorites here include holy crab as well as basil belly, a deep fried and roasted pork belly.
ALSO CHECK OUT: Thai Peacock, Langbaan, E-San Thai Cuisine, Nong’s Khao Man Gai, Fish Sauce, Tara Thai Northwest and Somtum Thai Kitchen.
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MEXICAN
Crunchy and fresh, Fish Sauce’s bún vermicelli reveals the flavors of ginger, garlic, soy sauce and sugar. (photo: Aubrie LeGault)
Carn from itas taco No? ¿Por Q s ué (pho Qué to: ¿Por No? )
Portland has a Mexican food scene that’s all it’s own, and it indisputably offers something for everyone. Traditional Mexican fare? Yes. Uber fancy Mexican cuisine for foodies? Totalmente. And everything in between.
The Matador The Matador intersects style and deliciously spicy as well as one of the last great happy hours in these pandemic years. They drew a line in the sandbox years ago by being a 21-and-over venue that isn’t dark and reeking of 1980’s stale smoke. The lineup of house-made margaritas is worth ticking down one at a time (in multiple visits if absolutely necessary). Two locations, one east side and one west side, for those who like to avoid bridges.
¿Por Qué No? The perpetual lines out the doors of both locations are for three good
reasons: tacos, tacos and tacos. Carnitas, pollo verde, carne asada, barbacoa, whatever fills your homemade organic corn tortilla, it evokes one word: más. Great catering options here too.
Tienda Y Panaderia Santa Cruz #2 When seeking authentic Mexican food, Tienda Y Panaderia Santa Cruz #2 cannot be left off the list. Located inside the back of a grocery store stocked with Mexican pastries and piñatas, this is a go-to for tacos, tamales and weekend specials like menudo, a traditional Mexican soup made with tripe.
ALSO WORTH VISITING: Chez José, Taqueria Nueve, Nuestra Cocina, Verde Cocina, Tehuana Oaxacan Cuisine, Raul’s Family Mexican Restaurant (great catering options here), Nacho’s House Mexican Kitchen.
The Matador’s margaritas may tempt you to wave a cape at a bull. (photo: Matador Restaurants)
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Bamboo Sushi Bamboo Sushi took Portland by storm, introducing multiple locations in a few short years and shifting paradigms with a hard stance on sustainable sourcing, becoming the world’s first certified sustainable sushi restaurant in 2008. Since then, it’s been through an owner change and some hard hit times during the pandemic, however the signature sushi rolls are still best in show. Five locations in all corners of Portland and Lake Oswego uphold the same standards, with great gluten free options, too.
Murata Restaurant This downtown Portland establishment has earned an enthusiastic fan base with its dedication to demanding the freshest ingredients.
ALSO TO VISIT: Momoyama Restaurant, Afuri Izakaya, Obon Shokudo, Ichiban, Fish & Rice, Zenbu Lounge, Tokyo Sando, Shigezo Izakaya.
Bamboo Sushi took Portland by storm, introducing multiple locations in a few short years and shifting paradigms with a hard stance on sustainable sourcing, becoming the world’s first certified sustainable sushi restaurant in 2008. 64 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JAPANESE
The Japanese community in Portland dates back about two centuries. That history, along with a mutual love affair between the Rose City and Sapporo, its sister city of fifty years, inspires some fantastic Japanese dining experiences.
boo Bam hirashi c s : i’ h Sus l. (photo ) bow n Janes ia Mar
MORE FROM AROUND THE GLOBE If you are craving anything from just about any continent, Portland provides.
Nicholas Restaurant
location on SE Madison Street (be sure to check out the bar), and others in Gresham and downtown Portland. The kabobs are delish.
(LEBANESE)
Gloria’s Secret Cafe
Nicholas Restaurant is, by all accounts, the city’s first Middle Eastern restaurant. Established in 1985 before most foodies had heard of Portland, Nicholas Restaurant opened with a tiny location on SE Grand Avenue and has since grown into an empire, with a beautiful, newer
Beaverton’s secret has been out a long time—Gloria’s Secret Cafe is a destination for anyone craving authentic Salvadoran food. Gloria herself cooks whatever she’s inspired to put on the menu, of this cash only, limited-table haunt, a staple.
(SALVADORAN)
ALSO TRY: Boriken Restaurant (Puerto Rican), Tango Crab (Chinese, Seafood), East India Co. (Indian), Two Brothers Rakia Bar + Grill (Mediterranean, Balkan), Top Burmese Bistro Royale (Burmese, served by robots), Pelmeni Pelmeni (Ukrainian), Kachka (Russian), Urdaneta (Basque & Spanish tapas)
FROM TOP Pair a cocktail with the za’atar salmon kabob salad or seasonal hummus at Nicholas Restaurant. Pupusas at Gloria’s Secret Cafe. (photos, from top: Andy Ehlen, Carly Diaz)
Nicoletta’s Table and Marketplace
An abundance of fresh salads, sandwiches and Italian dishes are served daily at Nicoletta’s Table and Marketplace. (photo: Jack Kehoe)
Dine in or take out options are abundant here, with fresh ingredients sourced directly from Italy. The patio lets you imagine you’re at a Trastevere trattoria on non-rainy days, and inside, the warm ambiance includes a terrific bar. Do both—eat there, then home something for later.
Citymaxx Food Stores Authentic Eastern European foods at Citymaxx on SE 122nd Avenue can be taken out or enjoyed in a dining area surrounded by aisles and aisles of intriguing goods.
MARKETPLACES Marketplaces are a fun way to explore the globe and enjoy imported beverages, mains and desserts under one roof. Portland and the surrounding areas have many options rich with around-theworld bites and sips.
ALSO CHECK OUT: Izobilie Euro Foods, Barbur World Foods, Imperial Euro Market, Uwajimaya Beaverton, Fubonn Shopping Center, Hong Phat Food Center, Edelweiss Sausage & Delicatessen
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Life in Our (Near) Future
OREGON
A high-stakes game is playing out now, shaping how we’ll live as climate change demands an imaginative, innovative evolution written by James Sinks
T
he climate is changing, and with it, so is Oregon’s future. Wildfires are burning more frequently, hotter, and closer to the city limits—and, in the case of Talent in southern Oregon in 2020—into downtown. The Pacific Ocean is gnawing into beachfront bluffs up and down the coast and creeping closer to development. In Oregon’s larger cities, rising populations are sending more exhaust-producing cars and trucks onto increasingly crowded roads and freeways. At the same time, state officials have been given aggressive targets to dramatically reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Looking ahead, what will we do? And, just as importantly, where? For the past half century, the leading-edge statewide planning system—with its seemingly contradictory goals of guiding both conservation and development—has helped to decide where Oregonians live, shop, work and play.
Climate-related impacts and threats weren’t on the radar when the state’s planning goals were drafted. That was then. Now, they are inescapable, from heat waves to flooding, and are predicted to only progressively get worse. That’s putting new pressure on the graying land-use system to keep protecting the state’s quality of life, in both rural and urban places. The statewide system and the planners who manage it are scrambling to adapt, at both the state and the local levels. That’s because the state system determines the overall framework for land use regulations, but it is up to counties and cities to then write their own zoning plans and to enforce them. The stakes are high—just as decisions made nearly fifty years ago helped to determine how Oregon looks and feels today, the choices looming today will shape how livable—and safe—an evolving Oregon will remain for the next fifty.
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W
hen the land use system was created in 1973, the motivating fear was that California-style sprawl was poised to devour the state’s prime farm and forestland, and that resorts and “condomania” were threatening to overtake the coast and other scenic landscapes. Today, a half century later, the land use system has largely performed as hoped by its authors—and has fulfilled many predictions of critics. The Willamette Valley and Hood River Valley haven’t been bulldozed. Difficult-to-expand urban growth boundaries have kept development more orderly, even as the state’s population has surged. And urban spots that might have become blighted—such as Bend’s Old Mill District and Portland’s Hawthorne corridor—have been revitalized. On the flip side, as opponents said would happen, a constrained land supply has helped to make houses more unaffordable, which is helping to speed gentrification and keep lower-income families from building wealth through real estate equity. Simultaneously, property owners have bristled over the inability to use their land as they see fit. The tug-of-war over the trade-offs isn’t going away. But the status quo has. In 2020, Gov. Kate Brown issued a sweeping executive order that required state agencies to regulate and reduce greenhouse gas emissions, with a goal of reducing pollution to at least 45 percent below 1990 levels by 2035, and at least 80 percent below 1990 levels by 2050. Land use and transportation policies will be key in achieving the targets because roughly 40 percent of the emissions in Oregon are connected to driving, said Evan Manvel, a land use and transportation planner with the Oregon Department of Land Use and Development. “To meet Oregon’s climate pollution reduction goals, state rules and local land use and transportation plans will have to change significantly,” he said.
S
o what might a more climate-focused future look like in Oregon? Some of those changes are already on the drawing board. Imagine dense clusters of buildings where 30 percent of the population in Oregon’s larger cities will live, but not rely on cars, echoing some of the development patterns happening along Portland’s light rail corridors. The land use agency is considering new rules to foster “climate friendly and equitable communities” in the state’s larger metropolitan areas, Manvel said.
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Imagine current inner-city neighborhoods where houses have been converted to duplexes and triplexes, or with “accessory dwelling units” in the backyard, reducing the number of people commuting from the suburbs. The state Legislature in 2019 eliminated single-family zoning in most cities to accommodate more so-called “infill” development. Imagine new rules that could make it more difficult and expensive to live or build in hazard-prone areas near beaches and in forests, and requirements for landowners to keep lots cleared of dry fuel that could make fires worse. The Department of Forestry and land use agency are drawing new detailed maps that will reflect risk levels for the state’s urban fire interface areas, down to individual lots. And a sea-level-rise map is in the works to help advise coastal community planners. Seaside and Rockaway Beach are among the places at risk of being inundated first, said Christine Shirley, climate change resilience coordinator for the land use agency. Envision more electric vehicle chargers, more bus lanes and rush hour tolls on highways, as government looks to reduce congestion and the miles people drive. The Department of Transportation is studying tolling as well as collecting taxes based on mileage as opposed to gas sales. “The future hopefully looks like giving more people more options to not get into their cars,” said Brett Morgan, metro and transportation policy manager for 1000 Friends of Oregon, a nonprofit that advocates for strong land use policies. The average Oregonian drives about 14,000 miles annually, he said. In many places in rural Oregon, however, driving is the only way to get around. “There are communities in Oregon where you need to drive 400 miles to get to a population center. We have to figure out how we balance the needs of people who are more transportation isolated.”
M
organ said Oregon is better positioned than most states to cope with the impacts of the climate crisis, thanks to the planning system. “Whether folks do realize it or not, Oregon and the way we’re looking at climate change, we are well positioned to be a leader for wildfire reasons, for transportation reasons, development patterns, for how we approach housing. Oregon looks and feels a particular way because of the land use system.” For example, urban growth boundaries, the lines drawn around 241 Oregon cities and towns, are an effective tool in reducing fire risks because they keep
“Whether folks do realize it or not, Oregon and the way we’re looking at climate change, we are well positioned to be a leader for wildfire reasons, for transportation reasons, development patterns, for how we approach housing. Oregon looks and feels a particular way because of the land use system.” — Brett Morgan, 1000 Friends of Oregon metro and transportation policy manager
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large-scale developments out of fire interface zones, he said. It has an added benefit: by protecting more rural acreage from development, the state will be able to rely on more forest and farmland for carbon sequestration, according to the Department of Land Conservation and Development. Because most Oregonians live in cities, that’s where state officials foresee the biggest changes. In the Portland area, planners are thinking about solutions such as zero-net-carbon buildings, density, shared cars and “twenty-minute neighborhoods,” where you can reach destinations within twenty minutes on foot, said Andrea Durbin, the director of the city’s Bureau of Planning and Sustainability. 70 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Fostering a more livable city for a growing population doesn’t stop there, she said. Her office is also considering other real-world impacts including more days of intense heat, flooding and wildfire smoke. One strategy is to increase tree cover and park space for more summer shade. “Our future is changing rapidly, and our climate experiences are changing more rapidly than any of us expected,” she said. “We need to adapt to that— and also see that there can be some positives to these changes too.” The city is mindful that housing affordability is a significant barrier for those that want to buy homes, she said. Efforts to increase infill development will help by
Oregon’s 19 Goals for a More Livable Landscape
making more residential units available, she said. “The more we can help to create neighborhoods that are accessible and provide more options for people to live, all of those help to improve the quality of life while also addressing climate change.” Yet the reality is that more people will continue to live in more traditional housing, and will need to drive. “It’s one thing to talk about a twenty-story condo tower in the Pearl and another thing to talk about a twenty-story tower in White City or Talent or choose your smaller suburban town,” said David Hunnicutt, the director of the Oregon Property Owners Association, and a longtime critic who said the land-use system has been too restrictive for too many people. The drive to increase density under the auspices of climate change is just the latest way to make development harder and more expensive—even when Oregonians, particularly those from underrepresented communities, are clamoring for affordable housing, he said. “These rules are being designed by people who have an academic background but don’t understand how what they are proposing does not play out in parts of Oregon that aren’t downtown Portland,” said Hunnicutt. “You can’t make most cities look like downtown Portland, and nor should we.” Some people prefer mass transit to driving, and some can only afford mass transit, Hunnicutt acknowledged, but many more people prefer cars, he said, and that fact alone demands more imagination for meeting carbon goals. “Is it really feasible to expect the general public is going to make the switch from the peace and freedom of their own automobile onto mass transit? If a model is predicated on forcing people out of cars onto transit, it is doomed to fail,” he said. State planner Manvel is more hopeful. An increasing number of households do not have children at home and the state believes more Oregonians will choose to live and work in vibrant and clean climate-friendly corridors—and drive seldom, if at all. The legacy of the land use system is that it has helped to keep Oregon a place where people want to live, he said, and it will continue to meet those challenges while helping the state attempt to meet greenhouse gas reduction targets. “We know most new development will need to be in neighborhoods where shopping, employment, parks and housing are in closer proximity,” he said. “Public investments in transportation need to be shifted toward increasing options, making walking, cycling and transit safer and more convenient.” Oregon’s future relies on it.
The state land use system is based on a series of widereaching goals and relies on partnerships with local government planning officials. Cities and counties develop their local comprehensive plans, which must be consistent with these statewide planning goals: 1: Develop a citizen involvement program that ensures the opportunity for citizens to be involved in all phases of the planning process.
11: Plan and develop a timely, orderly and efficient arrangement of public facilities such as infrastructure and services for urban and rural development.
2: Establish a land use planning process and policy framework as a basis for all decisions and actions related to use of land and assure a factual base for such decisions and actions.
12: Provide and encourage a safe, convenient and economic transportation system.
3: Preserve and maintain agricultural land. 4: Conserve forest land by maintaining the forest land base and protect the state’s forest economy by making possible economically efficient forest practices that assure the continuous growing and harvesting of trees as the leading use on forest land—consistent with sound management of soil, air, water and fish and wildlife resources and provide for recreational opportunities and agriculture. 5: Protect natural resources and conserve scenic and historic areas and open spaces. 6: Maintain and improve the quality of the air, water and land resources of the state. 7: Protect people and property from natural hazards. 8: Satisfy the recreational needs of the citizens of the state and visitors and, where appropriate, provide for the siting of necessary recreational facilities including destination resorts. 9: Provide adequate opportunities throughout the state for a variety of economic activities vital to the health, welfare, and prosperity of Oregon’s citizens. 10: Provide for the housing needs of the state’s citizens.
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13: Conserve energy. 14: Provide for an orderly and efficient transition from rural to urbanized land use, to accommodate urban population and urban employment inside urban growth boundaries, ensure efficient use of land and provide for livable communities. 15: Protect, conserve, enhance and maintain the natural, scenic, historical, agricultural, economic and recreational qualities of lands along the Willamette River. 16: Recognize and protect the unique environmental, economic and social values of each estuary and associated wetlands. 17: Conserve, protect, and appropriately develop coastal shorelands, recognizing their value for protection and maintenance of water quality, fish and wildlife habitat, water dependent uses, economic resources and recreation and aesthetics. The management of these shoreland areas shall be compatible with the characteristics of the adjacent coastal waters. 18: Conserve, protect, and where appropriate, develop coastal beach and dune areas. 19: Conserve marine resources and ecological functions for the purpose of providing longterm ecological, economic and social value and benefits to future generations.
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1 RHINECANTHUS RECTANGULUS (BLOCH & SCHNEIDER, 1801)
WEDGE-TAIL TRIGGERFISH Size of specimen: 15 centimeters (6 inches) Triggerfish discourage predators by erecting two sharp dorsal spines: a large, thick one and a shorter spine behind it. The second spine is the “trigger;” it locks the first one in place. 2
GASTROMYZON, NEW SPECIES
TORRENT LOACH Size of specimen: 7.5 centimeters (3 inches) The crescent-shaped paired fins on the underside of torrent loaches work like suction cups to help them hold their position on a rock or streambed in fast-flowing waters. These specimens belong to a newly discovered species that has not yet received a scientific name. 3 ENCHELYNASSA CANINA (Quoy & Gaimard, 1824)
VIPER MORAY Size of specimen: 71 centimeters (28 inches) Moray eels are legendary predators on coral reefs. Note the second set of jaws in the “throat;” these are the gill arches, which are present in all fish. Gill arches support the gills, the major respiratory organ of fish.
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EVOLUTION: SKELETON KEYS AT BEND’S High Desert Museum, “X-Ray Vision: Fish Inside Out,” an exhibition from the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History presents dozens of black-and-white digital prints of fish species, in evolutionary sequence. They include the rainbow trout (Oncohynchus mykiss), native to the High Desert, and others such as Shiho’s seahorse (Hippocampus sindonis) and the rarely seen pelican eel (Eurypharynx pelecanoides). photos: Radiographs by Sandra J. Raredon, Division of Fishes, National Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian Institution
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1
SELENE VOMER (Linnaeus, 1758)
LOOKDOWN Size of specimen: 17 centimeters (6.7 inches) Because of its sloped head and the enlarged crest on its skull, the lookdown appears to “look down” as it swims. These fish often swim in small schools. 2 DIODON HOLOCANTHUS (Linnaeus, 1758)
LONG-SPINE PORCUPINEFISH Size of specimen: 9 centimeters (3.5 inches) To ward off predators, a porcupinefish inflates its body by pumping water into its stomach. The body becomes a round, rigid ball bristling with spines, but when the fish is relaxed, the spines lie flat against the body. 3 HIPPOCAMPUS SINDONIS (Jordan & Snyder, 1901)
DHIHO’S SEAHORSE Size of specimen: 3 centimeters (1.2 inch) Just over 1 inch long, this elegant fish is readily identified as a seahorse by its characteristic head. The body ends in a tail that can curl around and hold on to algae or coral. This species is found only in the waters around Japan.
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photos: Radiographs by Sandra J. Raredon, Division of Fishes, National Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian Institution
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 78 ADVENTURE 80 LODGING 84 TRIP PLANNER 86 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92
pg. 86 The wild, picturesque, Southern Oregon coastline offers pleasing winter temperatures and fresh seafood.
travel spotlight
Sahalie Falls Greg Yamada/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
Get positive vibes from waterfalls, cozy cabins and outdoor adventure written by Cathy Carroll NEED A BOOST for embracing new year’s goals? Want to work smarter, not harder? Bemoaning winter’s diminished light and time spent indoors in front of a computer screen—or just feeling glum? Try a waterfall. Extensive scientific research points to negative ions emitted as the pounding water at falls break apart air molecules. These particles can instantly affect the human brain—pressing a reset button and imparting calm, focus and invigoration. A visit to Sahalie Falls is a fantastic way to reap all of these benefits, and it’s so easy to do. You can get within 100 feet of the massive cascade of white water from a viewing platform that’s wheelchair accessible, about a half-minute stroll from the parking lot. Close your eyes and breathe in the positive vibes from the negative ions as the falls plunge 100 feet over a natural lava dam. Breathe in the air, fragrant with the surrounding cedars, maples, pines and firs in this giant, free, essential-oil diffuser. Feel worries wash away with the McKenzie River, winding through forest. Freshly recharged, go have fun! Do the easy, family friendly 2.6-mile loop trail connecting Sahalie with its neighbor, Koosah Falls, which drops about 70 feet into a deep, mesmerizing pool. Along the way, pop a trivia question: in which Disney movie did Sahalie appear? (Answer: Homeward Bound.) You can continue on this, the McKenzie River National Scenic Trail, and wind around Carmen Reservoir where the river flows underground for most of the year. Walking along this dry creek bed in old growth forest, you’ll cross a few bridges and meander deep into the valley. After about two miles, you’ll seize another reward: Tamolich Blue Pool, where the river emerges up from the ground in a placid, sapphire, reflecting mirror of water. The U.S. Forest Service’s eleven clearly marked trailheads offer access from Highway 126. The river may likely tempt you to drop in a line and find out what fortunate anglers across America know. It’s home to twenty-two native fish and now is the season for reeling in steelhead on the spring-fed waterway. Fly fishers come here year-round for wild, redside rainbows. Outfitters are ready to help you find them, and innkeepers at cozy lodging throughout the area are fluffing pillows, waiting for you to settle in after a day of ion-induced relaxation. www.eugenecascadescoast.org
Sahalie Falls, on the McKenzie River National Scenic Trail, is steps from trailhead access off Highway 126.
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Come Join Us on the McKenzie River!
Wooden Boat Festival
April 23 Eagle Rock Lodge (eddyline.org/boat-show)
Tokatee Anniversary Celebration July 1 Tokatee Golf Club (tokatee.com)
Lavender Bloom
July 8-10 McKenzie River Lavender (mckenzieriverlavender.com)
Chainsaw & Arts Festival
Returning in July 2023 McKenzie Community Track & Field (mckenzietrack.com)
Walterville Fair & Waddle
September 10 Walterville Grange (grange.org/waltervilleor416)
McKenzieRafting.com Helfrich.com 541-726-5039
McKenzie Christmas Bazaar
December 3 Walterville Community Center (vidacommunitycenter.com)
Join us for family fun! Take Hwy.126 East, Exit 194A from I-5 For more McKenzie Information: mckenziechamber.com/events
Pursuing excellence through fitness 61615 Athletic Club Drive
(541) 385-3062
adventure
Amanda Mae Lawrence
Let Pine Path Cabin lead you down a trail to romance along Crescent Creek with adventures in fishing on nearby lakes, skiing and mountain biking.
Adventures Around Five Romantic Cabins Pack the wine and chocolates—plus the skis, bikes and hiking boots written by K.M. Collins
WANT TO GET snowed in on a romantic getaway this winter? While the wind blows and the snow falls, snuggle up beside a fire or in a hot tub at a cabin in the middle of a forest. Here are five ways to do just that. 80 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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CELEBRATING 20 YEARS AT DOBBES IN THE HEART OF
Downtown Dundee, Oregon
TEXT “1859” TO 503-451-6457 FOR TWO COMPLIMENTARY WINE TASTINGS DOBBESFAMILYESTATE.COM | 503-538-1141 | @DOBBESWINERY
PREMIER BANKING, at your service.
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2597 Cedar Hills Blvd. Suite 110, Beaverton
Mt. Hood, Oregon
Premier Service Center
LEARN MORE: NWCU.com/premier
adventure
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Sean Carr
Black Butte Ranch
Amanda Mae Lawrence
Andrew Wood
Blayden Thompson/WildSpring Guest Habitat
BELOW Wallowa Lake cabins evoke pure Americana. AT LEFT, FROM TOP WildSpring Guest Habitat overlooks the Pacific in Port Orford and is set on five acres of temperate rainforest for room to unwind. McKenzie River Lookout Cottage offers an old-school forest getaway ambiance with river views from the king bed by the fireplace. Pine Path Cabin blends 1960s heritage with mountain-modern dreaminess. Rock Ridge Cabin at Black Butte Ranch puts you in touch with your inner cowpoke for embracing Western style adventures.
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adventure
COAST
WildSpring Eco Friendly Cabin WildSpring Guest Habitat, overlooking the Pacific in southern Oregon, is set on five acres of temperate rainforest, in quaint Port Orford. These luxurious cabins in a naturally beautiful environment let you doze off to the sound of the wind through the trees and wake to deer grazing outside cabin windows. Have a meditative morning, walking the resort’s labyrinth and strolling through the sculpture garden, then head to the beach for agate hunting, or walk about a mile into town to explore this working fishing port, the galleries of an active artist community and the Coast Guard Lifeboat Station. Ride some or all of the sixtyone-mile Wild Rivers Coast Scenic Bikeway for plenty of ocean views. Unwind afterward by booking an in-cabin massage and meander over to the guest hall deck, a perfect perch for scanning the ocean to glimpse whales. Or, collapse onto the sofa for board games, beverages, fruit, popcorn and chocolates. End the evening in an open-air slate hot tub, and in cabin massages. www.wildspring.com
WILLAMETTE VALLEY
WildSpring Guest Habitat, overlooking the Pacific in southern Oregon, is set on five acres of temperate rainforest, in quaint Port Orford. These luxurious cabins in a naturally beautiful environment let you doze off to the sound of the wind through the trees and wake to deer grazing outside cabin windows. SOUTHERN
Pine Path Crescent Lake Cabin
Get cozy in a cottage amid an evergreen forest fairyland on the west flank of the Cascade Range along the McKenzie River. Take in views of the serene, iconic river from the king bed, aglow by the fireplace. Plan to pack your days with premier fly-fishing, rafting or mountain biking. Kick back on your deck at sunset and venture over to the McKenzie General Store and Obsidian Grill for pub fare and depending on the date, live music, too.
In the shadow of Diamond Peak and on the flank of the famed Crater Lake, Pine Path Cabin is a mountain modern dream. It was built in the 1960s, along idyllic Crescent Creek. Explore the 1.5-acre surrounding the cabin and find Western hemlock old growth, wildflower meadows and scat tracks from bear, elk and deer. Sleeping, reading and hot tubbing in this wild and scenic spot is a rare treat. Make it your base camp for fishing on nearby Crescent and Odell Lakes, skiing Willamette Pass and farther afield, mountain biking in Oakridge.
www.mckenzieriversidecottages.com/tours
www.pinepathcabins.com
CENTRAL
EASTERN
McKenzie River Lookout Cottage
Rock Ridge Cabin at Black Butte Ranch Cabins at Wallowa Lake Lodge Cabins Sidle up, hang your cowpoke hat and kick your boots off for the night at Black Butte Ranch’s Rock Ridge Cabin with its river stone detailing, antler fixtures, quilted bedding and rough cut shiplap paneling. Spend the day biking paved trails that wind by the horse paddock, meadows, pond and natural Paulina Spring rising from the ground. Go horseback riding, golfing and checking out the nearby town of Sisters. Back at the ranch, take a swim at the resort’s pool and recreation center. At your cabin, sink into the hot tub beneath a canopy of pines.
Get ready for a traditional National Park Lodge feel and experience. Wallowa Lake Lodge has that ambiance and design. Built in 1923 with logs cut and milled from the property footprint, the lodge was originally named Wonderland Inn. Today, approaching its centennial, it is community owned, with more than 100 investors. The lodge’s eight lakeside cabins, available year round, offer expansive views of the forest, lake and wetlands. Expect daily visits from wildlife, then get out and explore some of America’s best scenery just beyond your backyard.
www.blackbutteranch.com/rock-ridge-069
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ROOMS The 119 rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows, walnut paneling and pink marble accents and brass feature lighting. Large walk-in showers are stocked with The Hoxton’s line of toiletries, called Blank.
FEATURES The Hoxton
All rooms come with comfy mattresses and blackout blinds to help you doze off. Local art space Upfor Gallery curated the art in the rooms, and the ceramics on the shelves are by Portland artisans Clay Factor.
Carly Diaz
The Hoxton
DINING
Lodging
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP At The Hoxton, Portland personality influences the earthy-glam decor. Sandwiched between historic Old Town Chinatown and the posh Pearl District, it’s a tasty location. Just like the meter maid of The Beatles song, Lovely Rita works for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The Hoxton written by Lauren Sharp OLD TOWN PORTLAND is back. After nearly two years of area businesses’ off-andon pandemic-related closures, this neighborhood is gradually resuming its pre-pandemic bustle. Straddling the edge of Old Town Chinatown and the Pearl District, this boutique hotel offers travelers a window into an area that ranges from tony to historic. After a few pandemic related delays, The Hoxton opened its doors in September. This is the first Hoxton property in the Northwest, from the group known for its locations scattered across Northern Europe. The property draws inspiration from the area’s diversity, artists and culture. Each room is inspired by Northwest modernist design that swept through the city in the 1960s. Emerge from the vintage aesthetics in a location that is ideal for exploring the five quadrants of Portland. Within a 15 minute walk, you can roam the West side to popular destinations, including Darcelle XV Showplace’s cabaret, Powell’s City of Books and the Portland Saturday Market. For late-night noshing and fun, take your pick of food cart pods or hit nearby Old Town Pizza. 15 NW 4TH AVE. PORTLAND www.thehoxton.com/portland
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After a day of exploring the city, have a nightcap at Tope, the property’s rooftop restaurant and bar and view the city from above. Tucked below The Hoxton, 2NW5 is an intimate basement bar serving inventive cocktails and seasonal bites, and is a venue for private events. For breakfast, lunch or dinner, stroll down to the lobby’s Lovely Rita.
AMENITIES All rooms include a spacious private bathroom, mini fridge, and Hox amenities. Most rooms are dog-friendly. Street parking is available and the hotel is a four-minute walk to Red line and Blue line MAX stops.
GOLF
Spa
FAMILY-FUN
Your Basecamp for Adventure & Relaxation Nestled on 1,700 beautiful acres offering panoramic views of the Cascade Mountains and Deschutes River, Eagle Crest Resort is a stunning destination offering guests a true Central Oregon experience. Whether you are looking to relax, practice your golf swing, or enjoy a thrilling outdoor adventure, there’s something for everyone in Oregon’s high desert.
Spacious and well-appointed guestrooms at The
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Full-service spa, indoor pool and hot tub
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Only 18 miles from downtown Bend
Three onsite dining options Three golf courses and putting green Equestrian trails, hiking, biking, and seasonal
1522 Cline Falls Road, Redmond, OR 97756 - 541-923-2453 - Eagle-crest.com
trip planner
Named after Bandon, Ireland, this coastal gem is known for worldclass golf at Bandon Dunes Resort, a picturesque, wild beach and fresh seafood at casual and upscale restaurants.
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trip planner
Southern Oregon Coast The better season for the hauntingly beautiful Oregon Coast? written by Isabella Golasi
THE OREGON COAST’S other season is the dead of winter. Yes, it may rain a bit here in the late winter months, but with a little planning for weather, you’ll find mild maritime temperatures in the midst of the most hauntingly beautiful scenery Oregon has to offer. All without the summer crowds. The Southern Oregon Coast from Coos Bay south to the California border is home to the towns of Coos Bay, Bandon, Port Orford and Gold Beach among others. They all have three things in common—a direct connection with the Pacific Ocean, remarkable beauty and unexpectedly exceptional restaurants that enhance your coastal experience. Over the next three days, you’ll walk through these places as if in a misty dreamscape.
Day
Oregon Coast Visitors Association
COOS BAY Working your way down the Southern Oregon Coast, Coos Bay was Oregon’s largest coastal town in the late nineteenth century, when shipbuilding was in demand. Many of the ships that sail out of Coos Bay today are of the smaller commercial fishing variety. One of the top reasons to spend time in Coos Bay is its massive 40-mile span of sand dunes and the photo opps that come with them. Pack a bottle of water, some chocolate and rain gear, and head out along the Umpqua Dunes and the John Dellenback Trail for a 5.4-mile out and back for a great hike. Head out JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2022
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trip planner
to Cape Arago State Park to see the historic Cape Arago Lighthouse, first lit in 1866 with a Fresnel lens on an octagonal tower. In 1933, the lighthouse was listed on the National Register of Historic Places. When done, grab a bite at the iconic Crazy Norwegian Fish & Chips and eat like a local. Don’t forget to sample the local terroir at 7 Devils Brewing’s new waterfront ale house, overlooking the bay. Dinner is best procured at Restaurant O, an upscale Italian venue from the perspective of Irish chef Eoghain O’Neill. O’Neill and his wife, Kariktan Cruz, a pediatrician, opened to fanfare in December 2017 and immediately rose to the top of the list for Oregon Coast fine dining.
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Bandon Dunes Golf Resort
Nearly 25 miles south of Coos Bay, Bandon is the next stop on this Southern Oregon Coast exploration. Named after Bandon, Ireland, Bandon is now more likely to be associated with Scotland. Known for its highly sought-after world-class golf at Bandon Dunes Resort, Bandon is both recreation and world travel in one space. Bandon Dunes Golf Resort has five links courses that, if you were brought here blindfolded, you would swear you had been transported to Scotland. The fiery yellow gorse blossoms, the long and fast fairways, the tall grasses of the rough and the undulation of the land put you virtually in Gleneagles. The views out over the Pacific Ocean at various junctures, and how the greens and browns meet blue sky and gray water, places you in an oil painting from an adoring master artist. Don’t stop touring Scotland-cum-Oregon after the last hole, head to McGee’s at the resort for shepherd’s pie and Scotch eggs with a single malt sipper. If golf is not your preference, head into Old Town Bandon, the town center, where arts and culture thrive along the Coquille River. Before you settle down for an evening meal, work your way into it with the 5-mile boardwalk loop that takes you along the Coquille River, out to the Bandon Beach and back into the Old Town. Tony’s Crab Shack is a good place for fresh local seafood in the form of the Bandon Famous Crab Sandwich, a quarter pound of Oregon Dungeness crab on toasted sourdough with Swiss cheese, greens and dressing. For the more formal, whitelinen dining, reserve a table at Alloro Wine Bar and Restaurant and sip and savor elements of the seafood and pasta menu.
Erik Urdahl/Oregon Coast Visitors Association
BANDON
Restaurant O
Day
FROM TOP Imagine seafaring days of yore as you take in the historic details of the Cape Arago Lighthouse. Restaurant O’s crispy pork belly with carrot crisps, apple-celery purée and five-spice jus. Golf at Bandon Dunes Resort, with five links courses, evoke being in Scotland. Don’t miss Tony’s Crab Shack for a beachfront seat at a classic, unpretentious eatery with some of the best local seafood on the coast.
EAT 7 Devils Brewing (Coos Bay) www.7devilsbrewery.com Alloro Wine Bar (Bandon) www.allorowinebar.com Arch Rock Brewing (Gold Beach) www.archrockbeer.com McGee’s Pub (Bandon) www.bandondunesgolf.com/ food-spirits/restaurants/ mckees-pub Redfish Restaurant (Port Orford) www.redfishportorford.com Tony’s Crab Shack (Bandon) www.tonyscrabshack.com
STAY Bandon Dunes Golf Resort (Bandon) www.bandondunesgolf.com
Erik Urdahl/Oregon Coast Visitors Association
SOUTHERN OREGON COAST
trip planner
WildSpring Guest Habitat (Port Orford) www.wildspring.com
PLAY Bandon Dunes Golf Resort www.bandondunesgolf.com Cape Arago State Park www.stateparks.oregon.gov Frances Shrader Old Growth Trail www.fs.usda.gov Port Orford Heads State Park www.stateparks.oregon.gov
Ron Schwager
Pacific Reef Hotel (Gold Beach) www.pacificreefhotel.com
Oregon Coast Visitors Association
Bay Point Landing (Coos Bay) www.baypointlanding.com
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Strike scenic gold at wild and picturesque Gold Beach. Reflect on it over micro-crafted creations at Arch Rock Brewing. Savor fresh, inventive dishes focused of Pacific bounty at Redfish Restaurant in Port Orford while gazing at the ocean view.
Day PORT ORFORD • GOLD BEACH Mosey on down the coastal highway to Port Orford, another 25 miles south, for your final day and out to Oregon’s westernmost point of Cape Blanco State Park for a vista-filled hike. Possibly named by Spanish explorer Martín de Aguilar in 1603, Cape Blanco didn’t get its own proper lighthouse until after 1867, when the United States government bought the land from private citizens John and Mary West. Take to Port Orford Heads State Park for an easy 1.2-mile loop hike with gorgeous views. If you’re staying for happy hour, hit Redfish Restaurant in Port Orford for amazing views and inventive coastal food.
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Going deeper into the Southern Oregon Coast, Gold Beach is a remote gem. The scenery around Gold Beach is the stuff of the best Instagram accounts. You’ll find these places along the coast, at Kissing Rock and along the Frances Shrader Old Growth Trail, a nearly 1-mile loop of beauty. It may be best to cap this trip at Arch Rock Brewing and with its signature porter that will help you remember that elsewhere it’s winter in Oregon, but right here, on the Southern Oregon Coast, it’s a mild-weathered escape to a misty beauty.
Natural.
Wonders.
W I N E R Y . V I N E YA R D . E V E N T S
For the best of the spectacular south coast...start here (yep, that could be you) An authentic small fishing town in the middle of it all. Hiking, fishing, kayaking, art galleries, good food and nice people...all without the crowds.
w w w . E n j o y P o r t O r f o r d . c o m
kinhavenwinery.com I 1050 Merlot Drive, Walla Walla, WA
northwest destination
Walla Walla Springs Forward Holiday wine spurs spring wanderlust written by Everett E. Cummings
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Sip carménères and viogniers amid the Blue Mountains at Kinhaven Winery & Vineyard. Walla Walla General Store, a community hub, has lovely things for the home, too. Taste the cabernets at Bledsoe Family Winery in downtown Walla Walla. Brasserie Four’s bouillabaisse and The Finch’s mod style.
IT IS THIS TIME of year when the brooding dark fruit, the languorous vanilla and the rich earthy notes of a holiday red wine awaken something in your dormant wanderlust and put the small wine warren of Walla Walla on your spring schedule. For most Oregonians, Walla Walla, in the southeastern corner of Washington, is far enough away to feel like a journey yet close enough to make a long weekend trip. Early May each year, Walla Walla buzzes with lovers and wine lovers pouring into the tasting rooms downtown and driving out to the vineyards in the rolling hills as they climb up into the Blue Mountains to the east. The annual Spring Release weekend, May 6 through May 8, is one of the signature events 92 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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for the town and one of the most intriguing for oenophiles anywhere. In all, Walla Walla Valley has its own AVA, more than 120 wineries in the valley and more than thirty tasting rooms downtown. You can split the weekend into sipping in vineyards or swirling in downtown tasting rooms. Barrel out to Kinhaven Winery for its luscious carménères or its light viogniers. If the weather is pleasant, sip wine outside under the modern lines of Kinhaven’s pergola or inside its cozy tasting room. Make a point to visit Bledsoe Family Winery in its beautiful tasting room in downtown Walla Walla. The estate-grown
WALLA WALLA, WASHINGTON
Sarah Anne Risk
northwest destination
EAT + DRINK Brasserie Four www.brasseriefour.com Bledsoe Family Winery www.bledsoefamilywinery.com Hattaway’s on Alder www.hattawaysonalder.com Kinhaven Winery www.kinhavenwinery.com Passatempo Taverna www.passatempowallawalla.com
STAY Courtyard Marriott www.marriott.com/hotels Eritage Resort www.eritageresort.com The Finch www.finchwallawalla.com
cabernet, or Bledsoe’s new syrah or Oregon-grown pinot noir crafted by winemaker Josh McDaniels are, alone, worth the trip to Walla Walla. If you prefer something more intimate for the weekend, book your lodging at Eritage Resort seven miles north of downtown and enjoy your own selections of wine from your patio as you overlook vineyards and the Blue Mountains in the distance. Oysters on the half shell and dandelion flower fritters are on the menu at Eritage’s restaurant. Inside your room is a fireplace and soaking tub for added relaxation and de-stressing. The cool new place in town, The Finch, is a modern take on style and fun. Its spaces adorned in the artwork from local
Walla Walla Spring Release www.wallawallawine.com/event/ spring-release
Sarah Koenigsberg
The FINCH
Kinhaven Winery
Bledsoe Family Winery
PLAY
artists, The Finch blends well into Walla Walla but stands out as an exceptional place to stay when you’re in for the Spring Release. The Walla Walla General Store is a great find itself. An unexpected shop of Simon Pearce glass, Thicket jewelry and Treuleben leather wallets and purses, the shop provides a good opportunity to get on your partner’s dance card for the weekend. You may only be out to Walla Walla once a year, so make it special by dining at places such as Passatempo Taverna, Brasserie Four or Hattaway’s on Alder. All of these venues serve local wine and exceptional food from regional farms to get a little extra sense of terroir on your trip. JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2022
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1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Pendleton
Ontario
Bend
Eugene Springfield
Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
24 Von Ebert Brewing
50 Willamette Valley Vineyards
78
Sahalie Falls
26 Aesthete Teahouse
50 Domaine Serene Wine Lounge
80
Rock Ridge Cabin at Black Butte Ranch
27 NAMA Raw Bar
52 Oregon State University
80
Cabins at Wallowa Lake Lodge
28 Flying Fish Company
54 Sunday Afternoons
84
The Hoxton
44 RiverSea Gallery
56 Ecology in Classrooms and Outdoors (ECO)
92
Walla Walla, Washington
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Until Next Time A coyote on the hunt on Steens Mountain. photo by Kevin Clark/Erruki Images
