YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE AWAITS
Oregon’s Magazine
2020 RANGE ROVER EVOQUE
TRIP PLANNER: NEWBERG + CHEHALEM PG. 86
Tintype Photography
The Bee’s Knees Gin Cocktail
High Desert Chic Living
July | August 2019 ROMANTIC GETAWAYS
GETAWAYS TO FUEL YOUR FIRE
WILD
Fewer lines, cleaner surfaces and a high level of precision all heighten the modernity and sophistication of the new Range Rover Evoque. With the perfect balance of effortless capability and on-road refinement, combined with a suite of technologies to produce an exhilarating ride, the Range Rover Evoque is a joy to drive.
ROMANTIC
Find your next adventure at Land Rover Portland. 1859magazine.com
Land Rover Portland A Don Rasmussen Company 720 NE Grand Avenue 503.230.7700 landroverportland.com
1859oregonmagazine.com $5.95 display until August 31, 2019
LIVE
THINK
EXPLORE
OREGON
July | August
volume 58
13260_1
I WORK FOR
THE LITTLE GUY You go above and beyond for pets of all shapes and sizes. No matter how wild your workplace gets, rest assured that SAIF workers’ comp insurance has you covered. From promoting health and safety to helping injured workers get back to their jobs, SAIF is here for you.
Protecting Oregon’s workforce. saif.com
13260_1859_SAIF_LITTLE_GUY.indd 1
12/19/18 2:55 PM
Jason Chinchen talks to subject Michael McLandress as he prepares to make a portrait during a pop-up event at Velvet in Bend in March. Chinchen enjoys the interaction with people that accompanies his work. “It’s usually all about the sitter. I’m just there to facilitate that process,” he said.
The Big Picture photography by Joe Kline You’ve likely had your portrait taken before— perhaps before you graduated high school, or on your wedding day. Certainly your class picture when you were a little kid. But Jason Chinchen’s portraits are different. He creates old-timey tintype portraits for his subjects, giving them an antique feel and a depth that can be hard to find in modern photography. We check out his process and learn more about his popup business in Bend. (pg. 72) 2 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 3
FEATURES
Westcliff Lodge has glamping sites to up the romance factor.
JULY | AUGUST 2019 • volume 58
60 Wild & Romantic Romantic can still be adventurous. We’ve got picks across the state that will re-ignite the spark in your relationship through challenging outdoor adventures. written by Kevin Max
4 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
66
72
Amazed by the Bell
Picture Perfect
In 1915, U.S. officials took the Liberty Bell on a 10,000-mile tour of the United States. When the relic made its way through Oregon, people from far and wide came by to pay their respects.
Using a Civil War-era photographic process to make one-of-a-kind portraits of his subjects, Jason Chinchen is harking back to olden times with his company, Analogue Tintypes.
written by Kristine Deacon
photography by Joe Kline
JULY | AUGUST 2019
MENS • WOMENS • KIDS • CLOTHING • SHOES • GIFTS
MENS • WOMENS • KIDS • BABY • CLOTHING • SHOES • GIFTS • TEXTILES
MENS WOMENS KIDS BABY CLOTHING SHOES TEXTILES GIFTS
DEPARTMENTS
LIVE 16 NOTEBOOK
JULY | AUGUST 2019 • volume 58
Summer is in full swing, which means outdoor events to savor. Your soundtrack to summer is Fernando Viciconte’s new album, and we’ve got a beach read—a YA mystery set on the Oregon Coast.
22 FOOD + DRINK
Oregon has two spots where you can find real ale on tap—learn more about this drink, then find our top picks for gelato and summer barbecue.
28 FARM TO TABLE
Discover the glory of a fine finishing salt. Jacobsen Salt Co. makes 200,000 pounds of salt every year from Netarts Bay saltwater. Bonus—salt plays a key ingredient in everything from margarita to salmon recipes.
34 HOME + DESIGN
An architect and interior designer worked together to create the perfect high desert home. Find our picks for products that mimic that high desert look. Emily Green
40 MIND + BODY
40
Tonya Bender has been through the wringer, but her barrel-racing career hasn’t been slowed by injury or illness.
42 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Summit Arts Center offers classes from blacksmithing to glasswork in its historic cabins in Government Camp, fusing art and historic preservation.
THINK 48 STARTUP
John Jacob’s Old Sol Apiaries has worked with Pine Gate Renewables to build a dual-use solar site—promoting bee health and solar power in Eagle Point.
52 WHAT’S GOING UP
New parks are on the horizon all over the state, from Bend to Eugene.
54 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
Nataki Garrett, who takes over as the artistic director of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in August, is part of a generation of change in American theater.
42 12 13 94 96
Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
Daniel Stark
32
Charlotte Dupont
56 MY WORKSPACE
Blue Mountain Wildlife Rehabilitation and Education Center in Pendleton helps care for about 1,000 injured birds each year.
58 GAME CHANGER
Dragonfly Transitions helps Klamath Falls young adults take on the challenges of adulthood, in part through its café called A Leap of Taste.
EXPLORE 80 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Wallowa Lake Tramway climbs 3,700 feet to the top of Mount Howard, affording views of three states.
82 ADVENTURE
Get up in the air with a tour of Oregon’s best aerial adventure courses, from the coast to Crater Lake.
84 LODGING
At Silvies Valley Ranch, you can access Eastern Oregon views, ranch-style living and the now-famous goat golf caddies.
86 TRIP PLANNER
COVER
Newberg and Chehalem are sometimes the forgotten parts of Willamette Valley wine country, so we put these cities’ strengths on full display.
photo by Charlotte Dupont Trillium Lake (see Wild & Romantic, pg. 60)
92 NORTHWEST DESTINATION
Camano Island is a tiny spot just ninety minutes from Seattle but a world away in terms of calm and quiet.
6 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
MAKING YOU BETTER BY ANY MEASURE If there is one thing that sports and medicine share, it’s the desire to get better. Whether you’re starting out in sports, competing at a high level or committed to remaining active, Providence Sports Medicine offers a full range of services to nurture and extend your athletic journey.
PREPARATION • Sports physicals • Heart screenings • Youth and community programs
RECOVERY • Surgical and nonsurgical treatment • Sports rehabilitation and therapy • Concussion care
PROVIDENCEOREGON.ORG/SPORTSMEDICINE
PERFORMANCE • Injury prevention • Sports-specific video analysis • Body composition testing
CONTRIBUTORS
JONI KABANA Photographer My Workspace
CATIE JOYCE BULAY Writer My Workspace
DANIEL STARK Photographer Artist in Residence
HEATHER LARSON Writer Northwest Destination
Every so often, I run across people who are so passionate about their work that I leave starstruck after a shoot. Lynn Tompkins, founder of Blue Mountain Wildlife Rehabilitation and Education Center in Pendleton, is one such person. Her relentless devotion to harmed and vulnerable wildlife is astonishing. And looking into a great horned owl’s eyes in such an up close and personal way made this one of my favorite assignments of all time. (pg. 56)
My favorite interviews to do are with people who live and breathe their passions. Lynn is just such a person. It was so inspiring to see how she’s dedicated her life to rehabilitating the birds she so clearly loves and it was hard to keep up with her energy! She’s got big plans for the center’s future, and I can’t wait to see them fulfilled. (pg. 56)
As an Oregon native, I am continually surprised and impressed to find the most thriving art communities where you least expect it. I spent the day documenting the Summit Arts Center, an artist community tucked away in the Mt. Hood National Forest. The resident glass director (and wearer of many hats), Betsy Valian, drove me all over as I photographed a blacksmith and glass bead maker creating art before my eyes. It was a “day on the mountain” unlike any I’ve experienced before. (pg. 42)
One of Washington’s lesserknown islands, Camano has always been a favorite of mine. I enjoy the relaxed pace after the insanity of the city. I relish the helpful and welcoming residents. I also go to feel the palpable salty air, watch the hypnotic waves and breathe in the matchless scent of the Salish Sea. I’m always ready to return, whether to write about Camano or just treat myself to its possibilities. (pg. 92)
8 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
Pictured: Co-owner Becky Jones planting a tree with the youngest members of her family; Ava (5), Jake (6), and Parker (8).
This year, Senecaʟs 40 millionth tree was planted by three generations of the Jones family, including the children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren of Seneca founder Aaron Jones. Seneca is proud to be cultivating a legacy of innovation, sustainable forestry, and renewable building materials for the communities of today—and tomorrow. Oregon is the #1 lumber-producing state, and yet, today, there are more trees in Oregon than there were 100 years ago.
EDITOR Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
HOME GROWN CHEF BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Aaron Opsahl
Cindy Guthrie Jenn Redd Thor Erickson Jeremy Storton
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Jennifer Burns Bright, Melissa Dalton, Kristine Deacon, Jill Dyer, Juliet Grable, Catie Joyce-Bulay, Heather Larson, Sophia McDonald, Ben Salmon, James Sinks, Jen Stevenson, Mackenzie Wilson
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Charlotte Dupont, Emily Green, Joni Kabana, Joe Kline, Daniel Stark
Statehood Media Mailing Address
Portland Address
70 SW Century Dr. Suite 100-218 Bend, Oregon 97702
1801 NW Upshur St. Suite 100 Portland, Oregon 97209
1859magazine.com/subscribe @1859oregon
Printed in Canada
All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.
10 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
Opening Summer 2019
Reimagine Wellness Reimagine Your Life at The Alexander Bend’s Active Independent Senior Living Apartment Community When you call The Alexander home, you’ll enjoy relaxed, upscale resort-style living that puts your best self first. Take a dip year-round in the indoor pool, or relax in the hydro spa or sauna. Savor multiple dining options featuring fresh, nutritious local fare. Discover new pursuits, or reconnect with past ones. Share wine and sunsets with friends and loved ones on the rooftop patio. Explore the stunning landscapes and recreation Bend is so well known for. All in a worry-free setting that offers the perfect place to find and enjoy the balance you’ve always imagined.
Now Leasing 541-330-6000 • 1125 NE Watt Way, Bend OR 97701 • TheAlexanderBend.com
FIRST, THIS. I FLEW into PDX one day in June. This may have been the first time I have had the window seat. I wish I had stayed on the aisle. Flying at low elevation, I watched all of the buildings below me—bare, flat and devoid of any solar power arrays. Literally miles of square footage a waste. Was it lack of creativity, lack of awareness, lack of foresight? The State of Oregon embraces solar power, so regulations are not excuses, impediments. I felt a growing sickness with each consecutive empty roof. Then, unexpectedly, I blurted out a volley of laughter. One roof was stuffed end-to-end with solar panels, gleaming in the sunlight. IKEA. We look at one creative dual use of solar and beekeeping in the Rogue Valley on pg. 48. In the shade of 40 acres of solar panels in Eagle Point, beekeeper John Jacob manages an apiary queendom. “Climate change is happening and people like to see viable action that is being taken that is beautiful and sustainable. We need this,” Jacos said. We do indeed. Take note that Oregon Shakespeare Festival begins its new season with a new artistic director. Nataki Garrett hit the ground running with a passion for innovating in the arts. She is also directing “How to Catch Creation,” playing in July. Like Macbeth, Garrett’s busy schedule doth murder sleep. We wish her the best in her new post. (See What I’m Working On, pg. 54) Of course, you’ll need to find the best places to combine your passions—the outdoors and romance. We’ve taken the liberty of curating fourteen such combinations across the state—from glamping on the banks of the Columbia to kicking it Midcentury modern in Ashland. These ideas and more form the basis of Wild & Romantic on pg. 60. Our Home + Design feature in this issue presents a dream team, of sorts. See what happens (pg. 34) when an architect and an interior designer get together in Bend’s high desert and
12 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
Jenn Redd
FROM THE EDITOR
on the edge of the Deschutes National Forest. In this modern home, the architect and designer strike a balance of spare, modern, textured and comfortable. We note the female reincarnation of iconic Tasty n Sons as, well, Tasty n Daughters—with small plates of global influence on Division Street in Southeast Portland. Dessert at TnD brings to table one of my favorites—butterscotch pot de crème. Finally, brass tacks. Real Ale and How to Find It is a pursuit that is in everyone’s DNA. Jeremy Storton catches cask ale in its creamy and slightly effervescent state after being pulled from a cask or firkin. Brewer’s Union in Oakridge and Porter Brewing in Redmond are two known places in Oregon where real ale lives as quietly as a British exile.
1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon
Joe Kline
have a photo that shows off your oregon experience?
LEARN MORE To see finished portraits by tintype photographer Jason Chinchen or inquire about availability, head to www.facebook.com/ analoguetintypes or @analogue_tintypes on Instagram.
Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll win 1859 gear and a chance to be published here. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/postcard photo by Jess Walsh Fian Walsh swings into the water at Marys River in Corvallis.
#1859OREGON What does your Oregon look like? Connect with us on social media by tagging your photos with #1859oregon.
GEAR UP Show off your state pride with 1859 shirts, hats and more. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/shop JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 13
NOTEBOOK 16 FOOD + DRINK 22 FARM TO TABLE 28 HOME + DESIGN 34 MIND + BODY 40
pg. 26 Don’t sleep on dessert at Tasty n Daughters.
Trent Finlay
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 42
notebook
Tidbits + To-dos
Providence Bridge Pedal Katie Daisy prints Whimsy is the word. Bend’s own Katie Daisy sees the world as a place filled with flowers—and with her prints and other accessories, you will too. Pick up her book, How To Be A Wildflower: A Field Guide, or add her twee artwork to brighten up any space in your house.
Celebrate Portland the proper way with the Providence Bridge Pedal on August 11. This is the twenty-fourth year locals have biked or walked across the majority of Portland’s bridges in a car-free setting. Grab your bike and participate in the main ride, which crosses the upper decks of the Marquam and Fremont bridges, as well as four others. Shorter options are available.
www.katiedaisy.com
www.providencebridgepedal.org ur yo rk dar a m en
ca
l
COAST flashlights Camping season is upon us, and COAST has you covered in the flashlight and headlamp department. The company produces LED flashlights for law enforcement, as well as for the weekend warrior in all of us. www.COASTportland.com
16 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
2019
notebook
m
calark yo end ur ar
As though you needed another reason to pair beer and Bend together, Bend Brewfest arrives August 15-17. The event, at Les Schwab Amphitheater, features dozens of Central Oregon’s breweries, as well as those from around Oregon and the West Coast. Combine special beers to taste, food carts to try and, since it takes place along the banks of the Deschutes River, the best views. www.bendbrewfest.com
ca mar le k yo nd ur ar
Lasala Images
Bend Brewfest
Oregon Trail® Game 5K Beaverton Foods Celebrate one of Oregon’s longtime businesses with the best condiments this side of the Mississippi. Beaverton Foods was started in 1929 by an Italian immigrant trying to get her family through the Great Depression. Today, the company makes everything from normal mustard and horseradish to mustards infused with ghost peppers and hickory bacon, and sriracha and wasabi horseradish.
If you were a child of the 1980s, you surely remember playing the Oregon Trail game on your classroom’s Commodore 64. Even if you don’t, you’ll love this 5K in Oregon City on July 13. The race takes runners from “Missouri to Oregon,” making decisions along the way—whether you hunt or ford a river or die of dysentery. Runners are awarded a time, as well as a game score.
www.beavertonfoods.com
www.downtownoregoncity.org
JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 17
notebook Fernando Viciconte is a Portland institution.
Musician
Music For Our Times Fernando Viciconte’s new album is dark, and wonderful
Daniel Eccles
written by Ben Salmon
Listen on Spotify
ASK FERNANDO VICICONTE why the songs on his new album, Traitors Table, simmer with anger and desperation and he will give you a very simple, straightforward answer. “We are living in angry and desperate times,” he said. “It’s hard not to get angry with today’s twenty-four-hour news cycle and social media echo chambers, but during the making of this record, we tried to make a concerted effort to paint an empathetic view of both sides of our cultural divide. I don’t know if we succeeded, but we tried.” Long known as one of Portland’s best-kept musical secrets, Viciconte is a native Argentinian blessed with a voice that exudes passion and cursed with health issues that have kept him from performing in recent years. He pours himself into his albums, and Traitors Table—his ninth overall and first since 2015. It is not only threaded with dark themes, it may also be his best yet. Across its ten tracks, Viciconte sings about the downtrodden, the disconnected and the disenfranchised, sometimes through stories and other times framed by his own experience as an immigrant in America. The struggle of the common man against powerful cultural forces is an unrelenting theme. “You were put in your place,” he sings in “Turned Away,” the album’s fiery closer, “since the minute you were born.” All of which is not to imply that the songs on Traitors Table are dreary or downcast. On the contrary, the album is packed wall to wall with gritty rockers that pulse with energy when 18 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
2019
mingled with psych, country and pop sounds. Often, it sounds like the Beatles, albeit a frustrated, fuzzed-out version of the Beatles. And there’s a reason these songs crackle with urgency—Viciconte and longtime collaborator Luther Russell wrote all of the lyrics and music, then recorded and mixed them, over six days in Russell’s garage. “Lu and I share a certain chemistry and a long-established trust that allows us to make music quickly without much second-guessing and overanalyzing,” Viciconte said. “Also, I think we both were and are very concerned about the state of this country and the direction we’re heading, so we had a lot of pent-up emotion that fueled these sessions.” If this all sounds like a lot of doom and gloom … well, it is. But Viciconte knows the songs on Traitors Table were written from a place of empathy and honesty, and when he listens to them, he hears a flicker of optimism that may not be obvious upon first listen. “These songs are indicative of the times, so unfortunately we couldn’t bring ourselves to write about rainbows and unicorns,” he said. “But I’m hoping that eventually, truth will bring back hope.”
Sapphire on the rocks Maloy's oers a fabulous selection of antique and estate jewelry and fine custom jewelry, as well as repair and restoration services. We also buy.
The World’s Sweetest Tree Ripened Cherries HRCherryCompany.com 800-709-4722 | info@HRCherryCompany.com
notebook
Libby Findling and her mother, Kim Cooper Findling, wrote a YA book together.
Bibliophile
Rain or Shine
A mother-daughter duo writes a YA novel set on the Oregon Coast interview by Sheila G. Miller
KIM COOPER FINDLING and her daughter, 14-year-old Libby Findling, seem to have pulled off a near-impossible mother-daughter feat— they’ve completed a major project together and are still on speaking terms. The Findlings started writing a novel together four years ago, working together on the plot, developing the characters and crafting the story. Fast-forward four years and the book, The Sixth Storm, is a young-adult novel from Dancing Moon Press, which Cooper Findling purchased last year. The duo has traveled around Oregon doing readings, school visits and other publicity for the book, which The Oregonian recently named a new and notable YA title. The young adult novel, set in a fictional Oregon Coast town called Starfish Cove, follows Skye Clancy, a girl whose family has a strange relationship with the weather, which has wrought death and destruction on them for decades. While the story is fictional, it picks through any number of real Oregon places and pieces of history. That’s not surprising, considering the Findlings are fifth- and sixthgeneration Oregonians. 20 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
2019
Where did this idea come from? LF: She was putting me to bed one night, four years ago, and it was really stormy out. It was one of those Central Oregon thunderstorms, and I said … well, you remember it better, Mom. KF: She said, ‘What if the weather represented people changing?’ And I was like, ‘Whoa.’ She’s always been very story-oriented and creative. She tells everyone her dreams each morning, and I knew there was a lot going on in that head. But she was 10 when she said that and I said, ‘Wow, that’s the heart of a story.’ … So it was at that moment that we started working on the book. Was it hard to write a book together? Did you guys get along while writing it? KF: Libby and I are a lot alike. And we finish each other’s sentences anyway, so that idea generation, coming up with the setting and the people and all that, that was really fun. She was a little frustrated with me because I did all the writing initially. I would write chapters and bring them to her and she would respond. That caused a little frustration. I was a little controlling. LF: Well, I was a 10-year-old. But mostly the first part was super fun. What was the best part of writing together? KF: Fiction is more consuming. You can get lost in the story more, and I would find myself really consumed in a way that was enjoyable. Writing is usually so isolating, so it was super fun to then go from that
state to hand her a chapter and be open to whatever her response was. Libby was really good with dialogue and emotions, and she really got to know our characters as we went along. LF: I liked working with her. We both have that dark humor and we think a lot of the same stuff. I also liked creating the characters. My favorite is Skye’s best friend, Ashley. She’s so dorky, you never know what she’s going to say. KF: It was awesome. I mean, first just not being alone in the writing, but also, I knew she had all kinds of great storytelling in there, but she really brought a lot of depth to it as well. And then we went out and pitched it in person to agents and publishers and that was really fun, to have a little pal all of a sudden. Writing and pitching is so intimidating, and with her I really felt conscious of not modeling fear. What’s next? KF: I think we’re open to writing another book. It sort of blows my mind that we pulled this off. And now I’m even busier than ever, and so is she. LF: She has the press, and I have high school! KF: We’d have to squeeze it in in the middle of the night. … The more we get out and talk about the book, the response has been so much fun, it’s like how could we not do this again? It’s like we always tell kids, if you want it badly enough, you’ll make it happen.
AUGUST 23, 24, 25 - 2019
Central Oregon’s Premier Juried Fine Art & Craft Show and Sale
120 artists selected from across North America. On the banks of the Deschutes River in the Old Mill District. Bend, Oregon.
E H T E V SA
! E T A D ArtInTheHighDesert.com T h a n k s fo r t h e i r support!
For safety, no dogs/pets allowed. Thank you.
food + drink
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Gompers Distillery
Beerlandia
Real Ale and How to Find It
The Bee’s Knees 2 ounces Gompers Estate Gin ¾ ounce lemon juice ½ ounce honey Add all ingredients to a shaker with ice. Shake, then strain and serve in a coupe or martini glass. Garnish with a lemon wheel.
22 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
A bartender pours a beer from the beer engine at Porter Brewing.
JULY | AUGUST 2019
written and photographed by Jeremy Storton I’M IN LOVE, though I admit, not at first sip. I stepped into one of the two real ale breweries in Oregon and asked the bartender for a pint of the brewery’s Best Bitter. She smiled and pulled the hand pump, which looked more like a blunt weapon than a tap handle. I drummed my fingers as the beer flowed through a goose neck wand and sprayed beer and foam out like a shower head into my glass. The first sip was rich and creamy like a nitro beer, which ironically was developed by Guinness to mimic the experience of real ale. Real ale (aka cask ale) uses traditional methods to take subtle complexity to another level. It is served from the maturation vessel and requires skill and knowledge to pull off well. It is best chilled, not so cold that it suppresses the flavor, and with a light effervescence reminiscent of good champagne. This is how all beer used to be, until industrialization forced real ale into near-extinction. That is, until the Brits formed the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) and brought it back from the brink in the 1970s. Today, real ale still exists, but it’s hard to find. It doesn’t travel well and relies on unique draft systems, forcing drinkers to seek it out. Some pubs may connect a regular keg to a beer engine, a practice I call “faux ale.” Some occasionally dabble in the real thing. Oregon has two breweries fully dedicated to the practice—Brewer’s
REAL ALE TERMINOLOGY Beer Engine: A hand pump that pulls beer from a cask. Stillage: A stand on a bar top that holds a cask still and at an angle to avoid sediment entering the glass. Cask: A large barrel-like container that may also be made out of wood, metal or plastic. Firkin: A specific size of a cask that contains a little more than 10 U.S. gallons of beer. Bung: A cylindrical wedge that seals a hole in the cask. Cask Breather: Fills the cask with a blanket of protective carbon dioxide at ambient pressures to protect the beer from oxidation. Shive & Spile: A type of bung that allows air or a cask breather to fill the cask with gas as the beer is poured out. Keystone & Tap: Another type of bung on the head of the cask that allows a spigot to be hammered into the cask in order to serve by gravity from a stillage.
Union in Oakridge and Porter Brewing in Redmond. Both are splendid. Typically, Oregon is known for hops and innovation, while traditional ales don’t trend. Nonetheless, I took a final, furtive draw from my beer and reminisced. Real ale took me a few pints before I truly got it, but when I did, I fell head over heels.
ADVENTURE MEETS FRESH MOUNTAIN AIR
Three rivers and seven wilderness areas meet in Missoula, Montana, a small town with enormous personality. It’s an outdoor enthusiast’s haven, pulsating with arts, culture, food, drink, rich roots and the best people around. Infinite exploration abounds, so get outside under Missoula’s big sky and experience this place for yourself.
Call 1.800.526.3465 or visit destinationmissoula.org/1859 for a free travel guide.
food + drink
CRAVINGS: GELATO
PINOLO GELATO Tuscan technique meets Pacific Northwest ingredients at this deliciously authentic Division Street gelateria, where Pisa native Sandro Paolini churns up fresh daily batches of cold case classics such as fior di latte and Sicilian pistachio, alongside a refreshing raft of summer specials such as lavender, lemon basil, Tuscan melon and mint, and Sauvie Island Farms peach sorbetto. 3707 SE DIVISION ST. PORTLAND www.pinologelato.com
BONTA NATURAL ARTISAN GELATO After a carefree August day spent floating the Deschutes River, follow the chatter of ecstatic children to this popular downtown Bend gelato shop. Using fresh local fruit at its peak, owners Jeff and Juli Labhart handcraft fleeting summer flavors such as Oregon boysenberry and raspberry citrus blossom in addition to their signature small-batch favorites like vanilla bourbon pecan and honeyinfused Tumalo lavender. All things pink, including the wine, are encouraged at the festival.
Gastronomy
Drink Pink Rosé Festival written by Jen Stevenson PLENTY OF THE best things in life are pink—baby toes, strawberry milkshakes, properly cooked steak, mischievous panthers and summer’s most sublime sipper, which will be celebrated with appropriate aplomb at Patton Valley Vineyards’ eighth annual Drink Pink Rosé Festival. From 12 p.m. to 4 p.m., on Saturday, July 13, sample refreshing rosés from twenty-nine of the Willamette Valley’s finest wineries both big-time and boutique, including Adelsheim, Anne Amie, Colene Clemens, Day Wines, Montinore, R. Stuart, Sokol Blosser and Varnum. Bites will be provided by crowd favorite Crown Paella and popular Newberg food truck Ricky’s Tacos. Cream Northwest is churning a special rosé sorbet for the occasion, and the seven-piece Rae Gordon Band will play its high-energy “downtown gritty with uptown city” beats. After buying tickets ($75 at www.pattonvalley.com), start hunting down the perfect pink frock, seersucker shorts or top hat now, because the best-dressed competition will reward the rosiest of them all. While roses are red, violets are blue, nobody can rock a pink tuxedo while swilling rosé quite like you. 9449 SW OLD HIGHWAY 47 GASTON www.pattonvalley.com
24 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
920 NW BOND ST., #108 BEND www.bontagelato.com
FRANCESCO’S GELATO With its honey-hued walls and Tuscan countryside wall murals, Francesco’s is a quaint little slice of Italian life right in downtown Corvallis. Queue up with the locals for generous portions of huckleberry, marionberry coconut, lemon poppyseed, and the ever-popular Roman Holiday gelato, a creamy chocolate and caramel-swirled concoction clearly marked with a photograph of a Vespa-straddling Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck joyriding around Rome. 208 SW 2ND ST. CORVALLIS www.facebook.com/francescosgelato
SEA STAR GELATO This bright, cheerful Seaside gelato shop is just the spot for a couple of cooling summer scoops. The sweet staff won’t rush you, so take your time deciding between the more than two dozen intensely flavorful gelatos and sorbets in the case, from Hood strawberry and fresh cantaloupe to watermelon lime, all made in-house with local fruit and ingredients. 8 N COLUMBIA ST. SEASIDE www.facebook.com/seastargelato
JULY | AUGUST 2019
Local. Fresh. Sustainable. Riverfront. Live Music. 90% GF.
503.325.6777 • Open Daily • Lunch, Dinner, Sunday Brunch BridgewaterBistro.com • 20 Basin Street, Astoria OR
SEARCH FOR
BIGFOOT COLUMBIA GORGE
UNE-SEPT ONLY!
JET-BOAT CRUISES JUNE-SEPT ONLY!
BIGFOOTCRUISE.COM 503-224-3900
food + drink BEST PLACES FOR
SIZZLING SUMMER BBQ BARK CITY BBQ
Trent Finlay
Parked inside the foreboding iron gates of Southeast Portland’s exciting new Hawthorne Asylum food truck pod, Virginia native Michael Keskin’s stout little ’cue cart turns out trays heaped with melt-in-your-mouth brisket, pulled pork, ribs, turkey and beer links, slow-smoked over all-natural local Oregon oak. Sides include barbecue baked beans, creamy pickled avocado and moist cornbread. No matter how full you are, don’t pass up the bruléed-banana-and-Nilla wafer-topped banana pudding milkshake for dessert. 1080 SE MADISON ST. PORTLAND www.barkcitybbq.com
STORRS SMOKEHOUSE Hit this cozy downtown Newberg smokehouse for hearty plates of barbecued brisket, spicy maple-glazed smoked chicken wings, buttermilk biscuits and gravy and mile-high pulled pork sandwiches, best doused with housemade Oregon pinot noir barbecue sauce. On Sunday nights, stop in for the $20 Smoked Prime Rib Dinner special, complete with mashed potatoes, a fresh-baked roll, salad, and jus. For dessert, grab a to-go pint of Nutella French Toast ice cream made by Storrs’ James Beard Award-nominated sister restaurant, The Painted Lady.
Dining
The brunch menu at Tasty n Daughters features Turkish breakfast pizza boats and Ghanaian doughnuts, among other treats.
Tasty n Daughters written by Jen Stevenson
If you’re sitting out on the patio at this homey Parkdale barbecue joint after a hot July afternoon spent cherry-picking in the Fruit Loop, gnawing on a rack of St. Louis-style cherrywood-smoked pork ribs with pear coleslaw and sipping a cold pint of local craft beer, then you’re doing summer right. Especially if you order the homemade triple berry pie for dessert, à la mode of course.
THE GENERAL REACTION to last winter’s news that prolific Portland restaurateur and chef John Gorham (Toro Bravo, Mediterranean Exploration Company, Shalom Y’all) was closing his beloved North Portland brunch spot, Tasty n Sons, was bewildered dismay, followed by a sharp sigh of relief. Though one door was closing on Tasty n Sons, another was opening at Tasty n Daughters, set in the handsome, dark-wood-paneled Division Street space formerly occupied by The Woodsman Tavern. Following in its wildly popular predecessor’s footprints, lines are to be expected—be it weekend or weekday, the sidewalk collects crowds of hangtown fry hopefuls, while the bar coolly turns out jerky-garnished Tasty Marys as fast as parched booth-dwellers can order them. The menu is classic Tasty, an eclectic mixtape of globally influenced small plates such as crispy-creamy patatas bravas, plump Ghanaian doughnuts swimming in crème anglaise and pineapple jam, and baked egg and feta-filled Turkish breakfast pizza boats, all washed down with breezy orange blossom mimosas and a bold bourbon milk punch crafted with cold-press cask coffee from neighboring Stumptown Coffee (the first Stumptown shop ever opened in Portland, circa 1999). The kitchen shifts from brunch to happy hour mid-afternoon, then moves on to the dinner menu at 5 p.m., the time to go for both minimal wait and maximum prime rib—more specifically, a hunk of pasture-raised thirty-day-aged Cascade Farm prime rib served in a pool of decadent demiglace and heaped with freshly grated horseradish. For dessert, the butterscotch pot de crème and baked-to-order brown butter chocolate chip cookies beckon. Or skip the sweet stuff and go straight to the robust bourbon list.
4956 BASELINE DR. PARKDALE www.applevalleybbq.com
4537 SE DIVISION ST. PORTLAND tastyndaughters.com
310 E 1ST ST. NEWBERG www.storrssmokehouse.com
OREGON BBQ COMPANY Take a summer road trip detour off I-5 at exit 235 in Albany, roll down the window, and see if you can smell the beef brisket and German sausage cooking as you near this no-frills purple barbecue shack. Pair a basket of “Hog Glaze” candied St. Louisstyle barbecue ribs with a scoop of the restaurant’s homemade potato salad, baked beans thick with chunks of pulled pork and buttery summer corn. Or throw caloric caution to the wind with the all-inclusive Buckle Buster meal deal. Pick a picnic table, stuff a few napkins in your collar and get ready to make a delicious mess. 744 OLD SALEM RD. ALBANY www.bbqoregon.com
APPLE VALLEY BBQ
26 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
VISIT
REDMOND OREGON
TOP 3 THINGS TO DO IN REDMOND THIS SUMMER: 1) ATTEND ONE OF REDMOND’S FREE MUSIC ON THE GREEN CONCERTS 2) EXPLORE REDMOND’S “HOPPING” BREW SCENE 3) DOCUMENT YOUR JOURNEY THROUGH REDMOND BY USING #VISITRDM
REQUEST YOUR F R E E G U I D E T O D AY !
5 41 - 9 2 3 - 5191
WWW.VISITREDMONDOREGON.COM
This project was partially funded by the Klamath County transient room tax grant program.
farm to table
Farm to Table
Salt of the Earth
Jacobsen Salt Co. produces flaky finishing salt to liven up every food imaginable written by Sophia McDonald
Jacobsen’s salt is the finishing touch on foods from steak to cake.
WHEN MOST PEOPLE stand on the Oregon Coast and gaze into the Pacific Ocean, they see recreational opportunities amid the calming crash of the whitecaps. Ben Jacobsen sees a treasure trove of tasty ingredients. He looks not to the fish or crabs or even seaweed lurking beneath the water’s surface, but to the water itself. Jacobsen is the owner of Portland’s Jacobsen Salt Co., which is contemporary America’s first finishing salt company. Since founding the company in 2011, he has spawned a new industry in the United States and given Oregonians a local option when they want the crunch and tingle of good salt on anything from steak to ice cream. Jacobsen discovered finishing salt while living in Norway and Denmark. “I moved back here to Oregon and realized nobody in America was making great salt,” he said. “I’d go to the aisles of Williams-Sonoma or Whole Foods or New Seasons and good salt either wasn’t being sold, or it was from out of the country. And I started scratching my head and wondering why nobody was making good salt.” “Good” salt, as Jacobsen defines it, is salt with superior taste, texture and color. “When you taste our salt … it’s very clean and briny, with no bitter aftertaste,” he said. When sampled alongside its kosher cousins, “our salt will taste almost sweet in 28 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
a way. Texture-wise, our salt is very light and flaky. The color is this brilliant translucent white. Good salt, to me, highlights and accentuates good food and makes it better. It doesn’t get in the way of the food.” Jacobsen started making salt from Oregon’s coastal waters as a hobby. When he decided to shift his avocation into his occupation, he knew he needed to find the cleanest, best source of water for his product. He and his dog spent several weekends collecting 10-gallon samples of seawater from various places between Gold Beach and the very northern tip of Washington. The salt from Netarts Bay near Tillamook was far and away the best. “If you look at the geography of the American West Coast, there are very few coastlines and bays that are as protected as Netarts that also are prolific with shellfish farming and oysters and clams,” he said. The bivalves in the bay filter water and help keep it pristine. It takes the company about two weeks to manufacture salt. The seawater is first filtered to remove sand and other contaminants, then boiled to remove the water and pare back calcium and magnesium, which helps create the sweeter flavor. The highly concentrated slurry is moved to stainless steel evaporation pans that sit over low heat. Salt crystals very slowly
farm to table
FROM LEFT Seawater is filtered and boiled, then placed in stainless steel pans over low heat, where crystals form on the surface. Jacobsen produces about 200,000 tons of salt each year.
form on the surface, then fall to the bottom of the pan, where they’re left to dry. Jacobsen estimates he makes 200,000 pounds of salt every year. The tiny white flakes can be packaged as is or blended with other ingredients. Some, like salt with Stumptown coffee and Grochau Cellars pinot noir, are esoteric. Some are more familiar. “I feel like most kids in America grow up with a crappy jar of garlic salt in their pantry, and I did too,” Jacobsen said. “We wanted to riff on that and make the best version of garlic salt possible.” Besides the garlic salt, he’s a big fan of the black pepper salt, which gets its gray color from the rich oils of freshly ground Tellicherry peppercorns. Summer marks the beginning of Jacobsen’s busy season, which will continue until fall. He and his dog still make regular trips between Portland and the coast to ensure things are operating smoothly at both facilities. “Running a small business is full of challenges every single day that I never imagined I would be facing in my life,” Jacobsen said. “That’s the pleasure of it, that every thirty-five minutes at work is different.” Further confirming that his chosen career is the right one, he said, “My favorite thing about my job is when people come
into contact with our salt for the first time and see how much better good salt can be, and how transformational it can be. It changed my life forever. It sounds ridiculous to say, but it determined what I now do for a living and determined my course in life.” Good salt can be a revelation to anyone trying it for the first time, or anyone discovering it anew each day. Salt can be a big part of breakfast with smoked salmon and avocado toast from Lauro Romero, executive chef at Portland’s King Tide Fish and Shell. Salt-cured and smoked fish is sliced thin, then fanned out over bright green avocado toast. “Every steak is improved with a bit of finishing salt, but fatty cuts like the ribeye are great with something to cut the richness of the fat,” said Kei Ohdera, chef-butcher-owner of Pasture at Dame Collective in Portland. She gently compounds salt with Meyer lemon zest and Thai basil before sprinkling it on. The tang of coarse salt provides a nice contrast to the sweetsour flavor of a margarita. Josh Archibald, executive chef at the Wayfarer Restaurant and Lounge in Cannon Beach, likes to make the drink with an agave spirit from Cannon Beach Distillery, rather than tequila, for an interesting and very Oregon twist.
“My favorite thing about my job is when people come into contact with our salt for the first time and see how much better good salt can be, and how transformational it can be. It changed my life forever. It sounds ridiculous to say, but it determined what I now do for a living and determined my course in life.” — Ben Jacobsen, founder of Jacobsen Salt Co. JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 29
farm to table Smoked Salmon and Avocado Toast from King Tide Fish & Shell.
Wayfarer Margarita
The Wayfarer Restaurant and Lounge / CANNON BEACH Josh Archibald MAKES 1 DRINK
1½ ounces Cannon Beach Distillery Il Keyote Spirit from Agave ¾ ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice ½ ounce triple sec ¼ ounce simple syrup
Shake over ice and serve up with a Jacobsen sea salt rim.
Ribeye From a Retired Dairy Cow Pasture at Dame Collective / PORTLAND Kei Ohdera SERVES 2 2 pound ribeye steak Salt and pepper to taste
Oregon Recipes
Salty Snacking Smoked Salmon and Avocado Toast King Tide Fish & Shell / PORTLAND Lauro Romero SERVES 2 FOR SMOKED SALMON 1 salmon filet (4-5 pounds), skin on and scales off 1 cup Jacobsen pure kosher salt ⅓ cup sugar 1 orange zest 1 lemon zest 1 teaspoon juniper spices 1 ounce mezcal FOR TOAST 1 avocado, sliced 2 thick slices of good bread, such as multigrain 2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced 8 smoked/cured salmon slices Toast the juniper spices in a hot pan until fragrant, then set aside. In a food processor
30 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
or blender, combine the sugar, salt, citrus zest and toasted juniper. Mix enough to crack the juniper. Rub the salmon with mezcal, then with salt cure mixture on both sides. Place half of the remaining cure mix on a large piece of cheesecloth and place the salmon skinside down on top of the cheesecloth. Cover the salmon with rest of the mixture, fold the cheesecloth around to wrap it, and refrigerate for 12 hours. After refrigerating for 12 hours, rub fish to spread the mixture, flip it, and refrigerate for another 12 hours. Remove fish from the cheesecloth and rinse thoroughly. Pat dry. The fish is cured and can be eaten at this point, but if a smoker is available, transfer fish to smoker and cold smoke for about 2 hours. FOR TOAST On toasted bread, fan out the avocado slices and top with thin-sliced salmon. Garnish with egg, fried capers, pickled onions, and Jacobsen cherrywood-smoked salt.
JULY | AUGUST 2019
FOR COMPOUND SALT 1 tablespoon Jacobsen flake salt Zest of 1 Meyer lemon, grated ½ bunch of Thai basil, fine brunoise FOR BROKEN CITRONETTE 1½ tablespoons ponzu 1 Meyer lemon, juiced ¼ cup olive oil FOR RIBEYE Season a 2-pound ribeye with salt and pepper, then sear on both sides in a hot cast-iron pan, flipping every 10 seconds until browned. Cook in the oven at 400 degrees until it reaches an internal temperature of 128 degrees. Once the steak has rested, top with the compound salt, drizzle with the broken citronette, and add a few slices of fresh radish. FOR COMPOUND SALT Mix gently, without bruising the basil. FOR BROKEN CITRONETTE Whisk together until incorporated.
farm to table
Home Grown Chef
Salt Talks
Thor Erickson
written by Thor Erickson photography by Charlotte Dupont SALT—IT’S EASILY my favorite ingredient. This granular pied piper magically summons the ingredients of a dish to fall into place and work together. It’s the rug that ties the room together. Just a whisper of salt allows food to taste more like itself. Roman soldiers were paid in salt—salarium, in Latin—which formed the root of the word salary. Humans cannot live without salt, a biological fact that played into Oregon history. In December 1805, when explorers Meriwether Lewis and William Clark had reached the Pacific Northwest, they were in dire need of salt. Just southwest of Fort Clatsop, they set up a round-the-clock salt production facility, producing 28 gallons of sea salt in two months, enough to last the long trip back east. On a recent afternoon in Pacific City, my 12-year-old son, who loves oysters, wanted to see how they were farmed. We headed north to Netarts. After we had our fill of fresh oysters, we stumbled upon Jacobsen Salt Co. I have religiously used Jacobsen salt for several years, and I was excited to find the source—the first company to harvest this mineral in the Pacific Northwest since Lewis and Clark. Ben Jacobsen launched the enterprise in 2011, using methods not unlike those of the famed explorers to create several varieties of flake and kosher sea salt. To do this, he takes seawater from Netarts Bay, filters it, boils it to remove other minerals, and slowly heats it until salt flakes are revealed. After they are dried on racks, each flake is graded and sorted—by hand. One of my favorite ways to use this superior salt is to infuse it with other flavors—using spices, herbs or citrus. This is an essential ingredient in making a salt crust for roasting vegetables, meats or fish. Here is a recipe employing both techniques—spring Chinook salmon baked in a lemon-and-fennel-infused salt crust. If Lewis and Clark had dined on this, they may have stayed here. 32 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
Spring Chinook Salmon Baked in a Lemon-and-Fennel-Infused Salt Crust
JULY | AUGUST 2019
SERVES 8-10 FOR LEMON FENNEL SALT 6 tablespoons fennel seeds 6 tablespoons coriander seeds 3 tablespoons white peppercorns Grated zest of six lemons 2 cups finely chopped fennel fronds (the green part on top of the fennel bulb) 3½ pounds Jacobsen kosher salt FOR SALMON 8 large egg whites 3½ pounds lemon-fennel salt 3½-4 pound spring Chinook salmon filet (one side of a large salmon), skin on and pin bones removed Sea salt and freshly ground pepper 2 scallions, minced FOR LEMON FENNEL SALT In batches, toast the fennel, coriander and peppercorns in a large, dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. In a spice grinder, grind to a fine powder. In a large bowl, combine the lemon zest, fennel tops and salt with the spices. FOR SALMON Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In an extra-large bowl, thoroughly blend the egg whites and lemon-fennel salt, and scallions. On the baking sheet, form part of the salt mixture into a rectangular bed that is 1 inch larger than the piece of salmon and 1 inch deep. Set the salmon in the center of the salt mixture. Pack the remaining salt around it, pressing the salt against the fish so it adheres. Make sure the fish is completely covered. Bake the salmon for about 20 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted through the salt crust into the thickest part of the fish registers 125 degrees, or 130 degrees for more thoroughly cooked fish. Remove the salmon from the oven and let it rest for about 10 minutes. Using the back of a serrated knife, knock along the edge of the salt crust to crack it, then insert the knife blade to loosen the crust. Carefully lift off the pieces. With a metal serving spatula, gently lift off portions of the salmon and transfer to plates. Serve with a shaved fennel and citrus salad.
farm to table
This granular pied piper magically summons the ingredients of a dish to fall into place and work together. It’s the rug that ties the room together.
Packing salmon into salt and baking it adds flavor.
JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 33
home + design
High Style An architect and interior designer fashion a modern Tetherow home befitting the high desert written by Melissa Dalton
IN THIS HOUSE, the formality of a traditional enclosed entryway is a thing of the past. Step inside the front door and you’re greeted with an immediate view out the back—a 12-foot-high wall of glass that frames a grove of Ponderosa pine trees, desert scrub brush and several Cascade peaks in the distance. Putting that view upfront was a priority for Anne Mastalir. When Mastalir and her family relocated to Central Oregon from Portland in 2013, the move was an opportunity for the interior designer and owner of Pringle Design to craft a house that was not only a calling card for her work, but an ode to her new home. “It was important to us to design and build a home that fit in well with the surrounding landscape and fit the Bend environment,” Mastalir said.
34 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
home + design
Protected outdoor spaces mean the areas can be used year-round.
“I figured out a very long time ago that nearly everybody I work with comes to Central Oregon, or has chosen to stay in Central Oregon, because they love the outdoors. It’s all about that connection with nature.”
Alan Brandt Photo
— Eric Meglasson, architect Finding a half-acre lot in Tetherow populated with mature trees and mountain views set the project in motion. Teaming up with architect Eric Meglasson, as well as High Timber Construction, was a natural next step. “One thing that we really like about [Meglasson] is that his architecture successfully draws a strong connection between the interior and the exterior of the homes that he designs,” Mastalir said. “That was important to us.” If there’s a common thread through Meglasson’s projects, it is that love of the local landscape. Meglasson grew up in Bend and has designed homes there for twenty years, first as a director at Pique Collaborative and now heading up his own practice. “I figured out a very long time ago that nearly everybody I work with comes to Central Oregon, or has chosen to stay in Central Oregon, because they love the outdoors,” Meglasson said. “It’s all about that connection with nature.” Meglasson describes his work as “high desert modern,” sometimes “abstract,” and he likes how such design can be manipulated to respond to the special topography and climate of the region. “We’re not really a mountain town, in my opinion. Yes, there’s mountains 20 miles to the west of us, but we’re also on the edge of a desert. To me, if you think about what belongs in a desert, it’s not log cabins,” Meglasson said. He advocates instead for architecture that can “straddle the edge between mountains and desert,” meaning the buildings can withstand weather extremes, from piles of snow in the winter JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 35
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Contemporary finishes mix with a wide-plank oak floor in the kitchen. The bathroom features limestone flooring and porcelain tile. Cedar slat screens keep an open feel but provide privacy.
to blazing sun in the summer, and still deliver that much sought after indoor-outdoor connection. For Mastalir’s house, Meglasson drew on iconic Mid-century modern forms, such as what’s found in the design mecca of Palm Springs. There, features like exposed post-and-beam systems, floor-to-ceiling glass, and flat roofs proliferate, all of which were employed here. Deep roof overhangs keep the sun out of the building in the summer, but also protect the façade from water and snow in the winter. Copious insulated glass unites the home with the site. Contrary to popular perception, many flat roofs aren’t flat—they have a low slope and aren’t necessarily a no-go with intense snow loads. “Nearly every building in downtown Bend is a flat-roof situation,” Meglasson said. “They clearly work, they just need to be engineered properly.” Meglasson and Mastalir organized the 3,300-square-foot floorplan into three sections, each at its own elevation, which lets the house follow the contours of the land. At the center is the entry and great room area. Above that, there’s a bedroombathroom unit that’s connected to the house, but also has its own separate entry, so it can be used as an office or guest suite. A private wing containing bedrooms is situated a few steps below the main living spaces. Meglasson tucked protected outdoor spaces around the perimeter that can be used during different seasons or times of day, and are accessible from different rooms in the house, making the indoor-outdoor connection fluid. The biggest challenge was ensuring privacy from the street and neighbors while encouraging natural light and views. To do so, he detailed a system of cedar slat screens in strategic spots. The screens echo the exterior cedar lap siding, step up or down in height as needed, and enable bathrooms to receive full-height glass at a 36 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
Photos: Alan Brandt Photo
home + design
tub or in the shower, as the screens provide both privacy and peeks into the treetops. Mastalir outfitted the interior based on how she wanted the house to feel. “[She’s] not just thinking about what materials are beautiful or are currently in vogue,” Meglasson said. Her goal was to juxtapose the modern bones with a palette that was, above all else, warm and inviting. The key to that approach was introducing subtle texture via natural materials. “A lot of very contemporary homes can lack texture and that can be challenging to some people,” Meglasson said. Mastalir’s first pick was the wide-plank oak flooring that runs everywhere but the kids’ rooms. “It has knots and fissures in it and tremendous warmth, yet a lot of people might think something like that wouldn’t necessarily fit in a modern home,” Mastalir said. To create balance, she wove in contemporary touches, such as with Euro-style frameless laminate kitchen cabinets crafted by local maker Harvest Moon Woodworks. In the master bath, old-world limestone flooring and counters meet an artful wall of porcelain tile. Certain finishes flow from inside to out, creating continuity and tricking the eye into blending the indoor and outdoor spaces. The great room’s fireplace wall and the adjacent exterior wall are clad in white quartzite ledge stone. A floating interior hearth of rift-cut oak is repeated outside in a bench composed of the same wood. Tight-knot cedar at the ceiling continues under the eaves. When the project wrapped, Mastalir moved her family in and quickly gained an appreciation for how the house captures its high desert muse. “We wanted to design a modern home that pushed the boundaries of high design and was unique in terms of the architecture,” Mastalir said. “Not a stark modern home, but rather fused with rustic character, to really make it truly Bend.”
the art of organization
503-692-2877
www.closetfactory.com
custom closets | home offices | garages | murphy beds | entertainment centers and more... Š2018 Closet Factory. All rights reserved. CCB#208821
The trusted name for cleaning.
The trusted name for appliances. A P P L I A N C E S plus mattresses and outdoor living
541/382-6223
Local. Different. Better.
Outstanding selection. Unparalleled expertise. Favorite brands at the right price.
Just east of Pilot Butte in Bend
jbbend.com
Alan Brandt Photo
home + design
Furniture layouts can make or break a room’s function.
DIY: Create a Furniture Plan That Works THE FURNITURE LAYOUT in the living room can be hard to get right. Depending on the space, the dimensions might be too big, too small, or too long and narrow. The pieces you own may have suited the last house, but look wrong in this one. Try these tips for a better flow and fit. In her Tetherow home, she hid the television in a custom media cabinet made by Harvest Moon Woodworks, so it can be tucked out of sight when not in use.
1 CIRCULATION MATTERS
First, decide how people will navigate the room, and make sure there’s natural walkways for easy circulation. Group furniture off major paths so that people don’t stumble over it.
4
2 KNOW DISTANCES
Observe standard measurements. Three feet is generally good for walkways. Leave at least 15 to 18 inches between the coffee table and seats, to protect knees and keep cups in reach. Side tables shouldn’t dwarf the arm of the seat beside it, which is usually about 25 inches high. MAINTAIN FOCUS
“Having one focal point is something to think about,” Anne Mastalir said. Try orienting furniture to appreciate the best view, whether that’s a fireplace, great windows or the next room. De facto arrangements direct attention at the television, but Mastalir suggests avoiding that approach. 38 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
GET FURNITURE THAT FITS
Pieces shouldn’t be so big that they overwhelm the space, or so small that they make it look crowded. “Measure and make sure the pieces are big enough and the proportions are accurate,” Mastalir said. 5
MAKE SMALL TALK
The living room should foster conversation between occupants, so cluster furniture to encourage that. Provide seating options beyond a single couch and remember that everything does not have to be lined up against the wall. Try floating chairs opposite or adjacent to the couch, so people can comfortably see each other, yet still have their own space. Make sure the pieces aren’t too far apart, or conversation gets stifled.
home + design
Desert Chic Get the high desert modern look Introduce texture into the décor with the white Georgia Woven Utility Storage Basket from Connected Goods, a Portland outlet that brings global fair-trade items to market. Woven from plastic strips and millet grass by Senegalese women, the large oval basket looks and does good, while corralling common household clutter. www.connectedgoods.com
Bring the high desert inside with a large-scale landscape print from fine art photographer Mike Putnam, who’s based in Bend. Putnam shoots with a large-format view camera to produce photos that capture every detail of a natural scene, whether that’s a close-up of old-growth Ponderosa tree trunks, or a sweeping panorama of the Painted Hills. www.mikeputnamphoto.com
After meeting at the University of Oregon, Julia Sherman and Thomas Sprott started Peaches, a ceramics studio that is dedicated to craft and local industry. A delicate gradient of color washes their large porcelain vase, available from Mantel, ensuring an eye-catching display with or without the blooms. www.mantelpdx.com
JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 39
mind + body Tonya Bender, pictured with her horse Dreamy, is the president of the Oregon Barrel Racing Association.
Not Horsing Around Tonya Bender’s barrel-racing career hasn’t been slowed by injury or health problems written by Mackenzie Wilson photography by Emily Green 40 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
mind + body
“IT’S KINDA LIKE somebody speeding in a car and they slam down on the brakes to go around a corner, then ram it really hard to go fast again,” said Tonya Bender, 54, of her lifelong hobby—barrel racing. Bender has been through the wringer when it comes to her health. In 2014, she was diagnosed with thyroid cancer and breast cancer. She went through radiation and “chose life” when she opted for a double mastectomy. Today she is in remission. Bender didn’t let cancer keep her out of the arena or off the farm she runs with her family. “You can’t just sit back and say, ‘Woe is me,’” Bender said. “You get up and watch your family work twice as hard because you’re down, so when you’re doing OK in the health department you better be side by side and pull your weight. Every day is a blessing.” On top of fighting for her life against cancer, Bender has had three hip replacements and most recently a bulging disc replaced in her neck. Four weeks after surgery, she was back in the saddle. “The doctor wanted me to wait eight weeks, and I said if she wanted a paycheck to let me ride,” Bender laughed. Nothing, not injury or bad weather, can keep Bender off
her horses. That’s the grit that’s kept her competing for forty years. “I think it takes heart to get out there. When we had 37 inches of snow last winter, I still rode,” Bender said. “If you exercise your horses they keep their cardio up and you keep your balance.” She said she has to work twice as hard as younger competitors in order to maintain her balance while racing, a result of her hip replacements. Her dedication to the sport has been a lifelong love affair. Bender remembers biking 5 miles from her house to the fairgrounds as a little girl to interact with horses being trained there. Then, when she was 12 years old, she got Dutchess. “Some people called her a ‘mutt,’ but she was my mutt and my first horse and that first horse— you never forget,” Bender said. All of her kids grew up riding, and her 15-year-old daughter, Claire, is an accomplished barrel racer herself. Serving as president for the Oregon Barrel Racing Association, Bender volunteers her time to help hundreds of girls get into and stay in the sport. She says women sometimes barrel race into their 70s and 80s. “I look at them and hope when I make it there, I’m that competitive,” Bender said.
Tonya Bender Barrel Racer Age: 54 Born: Eugene Residence: Culver
WORKOUT “With three hip replacements and a double mastectomy, I don’t have a lot of time to go to a gym. … By the time I feed all the cattle and the horses on the farm, get breakfast ready and get out there to start riding, that’s an exercise in itself.”
NUTRITION “I make sure my horses get (joint) injections every six months, and I get them chiropractic work and I get their teeth done, and their vitamins and supplements. … It’s kind of like taking care of your kids before yourself.”
INSPIRATION “Chris Nelson is my inspiration. She’s a woman who’s been fighting breast cancer for years and she still gets up every morning and puts her pants on, and even after chemo she goes out for a nice little arena ride and, by god, if she can do that after chemo I better stop whining about my hips hurting and get out there and make it happen.”
“You can’t just sit back and say, ‘Woe is me.’ You get up and watch your family work twice as hard because you’re down, so when you’re doing OK in the health department you better be side by side and pull your weight. Every day is a blessing.” — Tonya Bender, barrel racer JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 41
artist in residence
Art on the Mountain Summit Arts Center’s creativity stems from a desire to preserve history written by Catie Joyce-Bulay photography by Daniel Stark
Betsy Valian preserved the cabins and created Summit Arts Center.
MOST PEOPLE HEAD to Mount Hood for the epic skiing and hiking, but there’s also a vibrant art community keeping traditions of craftsmanship alive. The story of Summit Arts Center, formerly known as Cascadia Center for Arts and Crafts, began in the 1930s when the cabins housing its studios were first built for U.S. Forest Service personnel. In 1936, construction began on nearby Timberline Lodge as a Works Progress Administration project, providing employment during the Great Depression. As the lodge flourished as a popular tourist destination and historic landmark, the original Forest Service cabins fell into disrepair. Fast forward more than sixty years—the cabins were slated for demolition for lack of funds to repair them. Enter Betsy Valian, a nearby Government Camp resident and glass artist who couldn’t bear to see such an important part of the region’s history disappear. It was perfect timing when she discovered the buildings, since she had been looking for a space for an arts program she was working on. “We need art on the mountain,” said Valian, who before this project was an integral part of starting the Mt. Hood Cultural 42 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
Center & Museum. Valian grew up in Newport, where her mother was an artist, and spent winters skiing at the mountain. She moved to Government Camp in 1982 for both the ski scene and artistic inspiration. It took two years of dedication to prevent the cabins from being demolished, and then another two years of repairs to bring them up to a functional condition. Since the buildings are designated historic, any repairs by the center, which holds a special use permit, must be in line with the original design, making their upkeep and preservation a necessary top priority. The cabins and Timberline Lodge exemplify the Cascadian design the region is now known for. The style is quintessential PNW rustic, with handcrafted elements, log construction, pitched roofs and gables, and stone chimneys, according to architect and board member Blane Skohede. “Many of the larger and more substantial buildings of this style have been lost to fire,” said Skohede, who was enlisted by Valian to design an accessibility ramp, then got hooked on the whole project. “This alone is reason for me to try to preserve the buildings that are
BEND FILM FEST
OCT 1 0-13 16TH ANNUAL
B E N D F I L M .O R G
artist in residence
left, especially since very few structures completely true to the style are being constructed today.” The arts program began with blacksmithing and glasswork that stemmed from the preservation of Timberline Lodge—the staff was commissioned to restore the stunning glasswork that makes the lodge so unique. Programming grew from there, and now three cabins house a blacksmith studio, a glass studio and a studio for visual arts classes and presentations, with artist-inresidence space in the works. The biggest event of the year is Blacksmith Week in August, which draws both professional blacksmiths from around the country and interested spectators. Headed by renowned master blacksmith Darryl Nelson, of Washington’s Meridian Forge, events include beginner and advanced workshops, demonstrations and a collaborative sculpture project. New to the center this year is a log building and design program, headed by master log builder and timber framer David Rodgers. Classes teach the fundamentals and history of log-building and also serve the practical purpose of restoring and repairing the buildings. “It’s a win-win—they’re saving history and at the same time people are learning the old techniques,” Valian said. She noted the center is working on starting a Friends of Summit Arts organization so staff can focus more on programming and big restoration projects and less on small maintenance tasks.
Throughout the year, focusing on the shoulder season to bring off-season revenue to Government Camp, the center offers a variety of classes, attracting teachers and students from around the globe for the opportunity to make art in this idyllic setting deep in the Cascadian forest. At 4,000 feet elevation, gazing out windows overlooking the elegant Douglas firs of Mt. Hood National Forest, framed by 4-foot icicles, creativity comes alive in classes that range from journaling to jewelry-making. “People see a picture of Mount Hood and start Googling and the next thing you know they’re here for three days taking a painting class,” said Valian, who directs the glass studio. “The studios are warm and inviting with great lighting in the dead of winter—a perfect space for painting the winter and summer environment or taking other classes. We are not a sleek, modern arts institution. Summit Arts is rustic and welcoming in a peaceful alpine environment, a respite from today’s 24/7 lifestyle.” “Mount Hood is all about outdoor recreation. People come up to ski and bring people with them who don’t ski and end up in our art classes,” Valian continued. “It’s a more equitable way of using the National Forest, which should be used by all, but not everyone is able to access it. In the studios people can enjoy the natural beauty around them in a different way.”
ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Summit Arts Center’s Trillium Studio is used for painting, pastels, fiber arts, jewelry-making and more. Darryl Nelson, of Meridian Forge, works on a project in the art center’s blacksmith studio. Bead-maker and glassblower Charlene Fort, of Morning Sun Studios, shapes a piece of glass.
44 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
CLASSES . WORKSHOPS .EVENTS
BLACKSMITH WEEK AUGUST 14TH—18TH
RESERVE YOUR MT. HOOD AREA LODGING EARLY SEE WEBSITE FOR REGISTRATION & DETAILS
Community is Important... Located in Ashland, our 55+ community is owned, operated and governed by the residents themselves.
Registration and class details online: https://www.cascadiaart.org P.O. Box 64, Village of Government Camp, Oregon
Mount Hood’s Alpine Village since 1849
A 55 + Community
857 Mountain Meadows Dr. Ashland, Oregon 97520 (800) 337-1301 www.mtmeadows.com
Voted America’s Best by National Council on Senior’s Housing.
STARTUP 48 WHAT’S GOING UP 52 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 54 MY WORKSPACE 56
pg. 56 Injured birds get another chance at the Blue Mountain Wildlife Rehabilitation and Education Center.
Joni Kabana
GAME CHANGER 58
Every Moment Covered
Full Spectrum News | opb.org 1859_slogans-image2018_FINALS.indd 6
6/3/19 9:18 AM
startup
Sweetening Up Solar A solar apiary combines power and bolstered bee colony health written by James Sinks HONEYBEES DANCE AND DIP among the lightly shaded wildflowers in this patch of Rogue Valley farmland, zipping between splotches of color and— when filled with pollen—curl back to their boxed hives to offload their cargo, and then start anew. It’s almost a normal agricultural view. Until you look upward. The canopy above the carpet of wildflowers is not made up of tree branches, but rather rows of solar power panels, covering some 40 acres near Eagle Point. The installation came online in 2016 and produces 10 megawatts of renewable electricity—enough to supply the power needs of roughly 8,000 houses. To Rogue River beekeeper John Jacob, the dualuse solar site—the nation’s largest “solar apiary”—is a thoughtful example of how farms of the future can coexist with renewable energy, and make the world better. And importantly, he said, the sites can act as organic refuges for stressed pollinators, who are pivotal to $3 billion in agricultural production in Oregon and Washington alone. Jacob’s Old Sol Enterprises transports bees to orchards and berry farms up to eight hours away, from California to Spokane, and employs five people at peak season. In addition, with bee colonies suffering die-offs every year due to habitat loss, chemicals, disease and mites, his hive-starting queens are in high demand. After more than two decades in the bee business, he is now putting some of his energy into a niche that matches his passion for protecting the planet— consulting to co-locate apiaries with solar facilities. “Climate change is happening and people like to see viable action that is being taken that is beautiful and sustainable,” he said. “We need this.” The apiary site in Eagle Point is overseen by North Carolina-based Pine Gate Renewables, and marked Jacob’s first solar-bee venture. He is consulting on several additional projects, on the drawing board from Southern Oregon to the outskirts of Portland. Done right, Jacob sees places where bees can thrive and recover. At the same time, he said the arrays could supply welcome income potential for farmers, much like wheat growers in Eastern Oregon have benefitted 48 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
startup Employees at the apiary check on the bees.
JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 49
startup
with the installation of wind-power turbines. “Farming is a tough sport,” he said. The idea of solar arrays spilling off rooftops onto Oregon farmland has proved controversial, and the debate has found its way to the courts and even the statehouse. Since the 1970s, the land use system has protected prime cropland and pastures from industrial development, and recently high-profile applications for large rural solar installations have been rejected, including an 80-acre development proposed near Medford. In addition to uneasiness about farm impacts, the visual prospect of banks of solar panels next door has rankled some prospective neighbors. Critics say large-scale solar development threatens traditional farms. Updates to land-use goals—which didn’t anticipate solar power forty years ago—are being discussed. Promoters of renewable power development were stung this spring when the state’s land-use commission limited the size of new solar installations on prime soil, which covers much of the rural real estate near power-hungry cities in the Willamette Valley. The commission, however, did open the door a bit for larger projects, if they are “dual use” that pair farming and solar generation on the same site. Jacob argues that, thanks to a previous legal decision, bees are now considered livestock in Oregon, and thus represent an important agricultural use. He said he sees eye-to-eye with those who want to protect farmland. What he doesn’t want, he said, is an “either-or” dynamic in which valuable cropland is ultimately graveled over for power generation. Bee farms are a way to make sure the landscape stays in production, and can be protected for the future, he said. Combining bee-friendly habitat and solar arrays is common in other states, such as Minnesota, and also in Europe, said Evan Bixby, a market lead for Pine Gate Renewables. He said his company looks for opportunities to work with neighbors and give back to the land, and the Southern Oregon project offered a chance to do a native prairie restoration and,
Solar arrays on farmland are currently part of a big debate.
50 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
with Jacob’s help, to establish an apiary. Other pollinator-friendly projects are planned, he said. The Pine Gate project has proven a boon for the bees. The native wildflowers produce a bounty of pollen—a protein source—and the resident hives are the most productive of his more than 3,000 Old Sol colonies, Jacob said. “The bees are kicking butt there,” he said. With curiosity about the idea rising, Jacob presented at the Oregon Solar Energy Conference this spring, where he and his wife shared advice and tubes of live bees. His email inbox is filling, and consulting now makes up about 20 percent of his business, he said. Also on the conference docket was Chad Higgins, an Oregon State University professor of ecological engineering whose research on non-irrigated parcels found that vegetation under solar panels is less strained, uses less water, and produces up to 90 percent more. “This may reduce some of the tension between ag and solar,” he said. “Nobody likes leaving money on the table.” Angela Crowley-Koch, executive director of the Oregon Solar Energy Industries Association, said solar generation commonly occurs in tandem with an existing use, such as on rooftops, and this is no different. Clean power benefits everyone, she said, and finding ways to meld agriculture and solar is an exciting growth opportunity for both industries. There’s another industry that is also benefitting, at least in Southern Oregon. A former bartender, Jacob is supplying honey from the solar site to Caldera Brewing Co. in Ashland, where it is an ingredient in the popular “Let’s Bee Friends” Honey IPA. After twenty-two years in the bee business, not only is he helping to make the world more sustainable. There’s beer as a byproduct. “Future generations are going to thank us,” he said. “Our food supply depends on pollinators, and pollinator habitat is going to be immensely valuable to society and everybody.”
what’s going up?
Going Green New Oregon parks are on the horizon written by Sheila G. Miller OREGON IS AN outdoor wonderland, and parks help curate those outdoor experiences. Around the state, communities are in the planning stages for new park facilities that will help more people fulfill that sunshine (or rain) prescription. In Eugene, voters passed a bond in 2018 that will help create the Downtown Riverfront Park. The park will include a 3-acre green space as well as a 1-acre plaza. Currently, the city is in the process of relocating utilities and planting the area with native plants and removing invasive species. In summer 2020, the city will build the park features and the plaza. The park is not expected to be complete until spring 2021. In Bend, where parks are king, several projects are underway, including Alpenglow Community Park. The 37-acre site in the southeast area of the city has large, mature stands of ponderosa pine and park development will seek to maintain the natural feel of the area. Off-leash areas, a dog agility course, a sprayground and an event space are all being considered for the park, which is expected to be completed in early 2022. 52 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
2019
FROM TOP Alpenglow Community Park in Bend will feature an event space. It will also have a sprayground for water play.
what i’m working on
What I’m Working On
The Next Generation Nataki Garrett seeks to broaden theater audiences at Oregon Shakespeare Festival interview by Sheila G. Miller
Open to the sky, the Oregon Shakespeare Festival’s outdoor Allen Elizabethan Theatre seats 1,200 people. Featured here is the 2017 set and ensemble in “The Merry Wives of Windsor.”
54 54 1859 1859 OREGON’S OREGON’S MAGAZINE MAGAZINE
JULY JULY || AUGUST AUGUST 2019 2019
Kim Budd
THE OREGON SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL announced earlier this year that its new artistic director will be Nataki Garrett, a veteran stage director and the festival’s first African-American leader. She will be responsible for the artistic vision of the festival, which was founded in 1935 and has grown over the decades to become one of the biggest nonprofit theaters in the country. Garrett isn’t starting out slowly. While she takes over as the artistic director in August, she has been on site since April and will also direct a play, “How to Catch Creation,” at OSF in July.
what i’m working on
When do you plan to sleep? It’s funny because I had a conversation with Bill Rauch, the outgoing artistic director, about how important work-life balance is. He said, ‘Remember to pace yourself. You can do a lot of things all in one day but you can’t do them all well. So do the things you can do well in that day, and pace yourself.’ OSF has been around for so long— how do you honor the tradition but still innovate? It’s 84 years old. I went back to read some of the writings of the organization’s founder, Angus Bowmer, and of course Jerry Turner, who was the second artistic director, and when you read where those people’s heads were and what they were trying to do, it was really revolutionary. They created something magical out of nothing but fortitude and might, and they did it because Shakespeare has a long scope. It was to look at our basic humanity and the questions Shakespeare was asking are the questions we’ll be asking for
Nataki Garrett will take over as OSF’s artistic director in August.
Bill Geenen
What exactly goes into being the artistic director? I am the figurehead for artistic leadership, but I am also responsible for basically two-thirds of everything that happens in our organization. I’m responsible for all things in production such as choosing plays, hiring artists for plays including the actors, I’m responsible for what happens in production, how the shows are built and how they’re managed and how they’re produced. And then there’s also that connection to development, to our philanthropic needs, creating interest and how we market the plays and tell people about them and invite them to come to our plays. The biggest thing I do is I’m responsible for OSF’s artistic vision, our ideological stance, and how we pursue our mission, vision and values.
generations. It was about making discoveries about humanity and our capacity for empathy. It was about opening us up to new horizons and how do we begin to create a space where people can live their full, dynamic lives? I want to be a part of something that is about innovating and moving forward, and OSF was founded in that idea. The foundation of OSF is evolution and revolution. What’s your vision to take OSF to the next level? I think the next big thing is restructuring our marketing. We do such a broad selection of plays, we speak to so many people, and I just want to make sure that those people know where we are and that they’re invited. We’re also facing issues because of climate change, and so how do we make sure our work gets out into the world even if you can’t come sit in the air for those couple of weeks that might have smoke (during wildfire season)? I’m thinking of engaging in the digital landscape, the possibility of augmenting some of our structures to filter the air. And I also want to reconnect our organization to Ashland and to those
businesses and the tourism there, making sure we are working together with businesses as we move forward, make sure we’re all working toward the same goal. Why are you the right woman for the job? One of the most important things I have come to understand in a position of leadership is, what is it that drives your service? I serve the people that I lead, the community that I lead, I serve the art that I lead. Some of my answer will come as I discover as I go what makes me the right leader. The way to do that is to get up and go to work every morning and take care of what I have to take care of, and try to chart a course for the future. I’ll do that every single day—invest in the future. I’m also part of a generation of change in American theater. There have been five women who have been seated at major theaters on the West Coast in the last year, and so I am part of a cohort of change. I’m part of that shift in who we believe leaders are and how we perceive of leaders, and who gets to lead. I feel blessed to be part of the conversation.
JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 55
my workspace
My Workspace
For the Birds Rehabilitating wildlife is a way of life for this former vet tech written by Catie Joyce-Bulay photography by Joni Kabana
To say birds are Lynn Tompkins’ passion is an understatement. For almost thirty years, birds have been her life at Blue Mountain Wildlife Rehabilitation and Education Center, where she works and lives, rising early each morning to feed feathered friends ranging from the common crow to golden eagles.
Tompkins founded the center in Pendleton in 1990 with her husband and rehabilitates around 1,000 birds each year. Volunteers throughout Eastern Oregon and Washington help, along with four staff and a handful of interns who come from around the world to train with her. A capital campaign is in the works to build a full hospital, with indoor and outdoor classrooms and housing for caretakers and interns.
56 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
2019
my workspace
Most of the birds are injured or displaced as a result of human activity, anything from being hit by a car to running into a power line. “It just seems like we have an obligation to attempt to mitigate some of the damage that we do,” Tompkins said.
Education is an important component of the center. A handful of birds who can no longer survive on their own visit more than 150 regional schools and organizations a year. Sage, the 25-yearold great horned owl, is now visiting classrooms with teachers who remember her from their school days.
JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 57
Jared Cruz
game changer
A café staff member serves guests in Klamath Falls.
Adulting, With a Net Dragonfly transitions seeks to help young people succeed with its café written by Juliet Grable FOR MANY YOUNG people, job hunting is stressful, if not overwhelming. What if you could practice the entire process— craft a résumé and cover letter, gather references, interview, and work under a supervisor—in a supportive, real-world setting? A Leap of Taste, an airy café in downtown Klamath Falls, provides just such a “safe container.” There, student interns work alongside paid employees, practicing basic life skills that start with showing up for a shift. The internship at A Leap of Taste is one facet of Dragonfly Transitions, a holistic program designed to help young people acquire adult skills and healthy habits. Co-founded by Mona Treadway and Glenn White, Dragonfly provides a crucial link between wilderness therapy and successful independent living. People often return from outdoor trips with a “wilderness high,” Treadway said. The insights gained are huge, but can slip away once people return to old haunts and habits. The nine- to twelve-month program, customized for each student, includes individual and group therapy, mentoring and recreational trips. Some students choose to do the Leap internship, while others take college classes or work other jobs. While students typically range between 18 and 25, Dragonfly accepts adults up to 28. 58 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
“This age group is struggling,” Treadway said. “For some, it’s paralyzing to leave the structure of their parents’ homes.” Students come from all over the country to live in one of Dragonfly’s three residential settings in Southern Oregon. The change of environment is key. “It allows students to separate and individuate while still remaining connected with their families,” Treadway said. She and White purchased A Leap of Taste and started the internship program in 2010. Students are often consumed with anxiety on their first shift, said Keegan Mueller, who served as a Dragonfly mentor for two years before taking over as the café’s manager last summer. They progress in steps, cleaning and bussing tables before learning how to crank out espresso drinks and work the cash register. Mueller enjoys witnessing the transformation. “Students come in like deer in the headlights, but after a couple of months they’re smiling and interacting with customers.” They learn about consequences—if they arrive late, they stay late—but also receive daily feedback and sit down with a vocational counselor after three months. “We try to foster a culture of responsibility,” Treadway said. The café sources some ingredients from nearby Sweet Union Farm and rewards customers who bring reusable cups and utensils. Most days, Leap is hopping. Customers line up for coffee drinks, smoothies, sandwiches and deli salads. Many stay to enjoy the living-room ambience. The café hosts live music every afternoon and the occasional open-mic night. Mueller plans to extend hours on summer weekends in hopes of infusing downtown with a “community vibe.” Like the students who work there, A Leap of Taste has blossomed from hundred-dollar days to a thriving, sustainable business that helps launch young people into adulthood, healthy and whole.
Discover the unsearchable Discover the forest
Find a trail near you at DiscoverTheForest.org
Getting outside can be an aphrodisiac— turn up the heat this summer with an outdoor adventure written by Kevin Max
60 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
W
E KNOW YOU LIKE
to make travel plans around new and exciting experiences in the outdoors, so we happily brought together some of our top picks for every region of Oregon. These range from remote hike-in cabins in Eastern Oregon to hot springs resorts in Central Oregon, a fabulous Mid-century makeover in Southern Oregon, a fire lookout in the Willamette Valley and more. Here is the fruit of this exploration.
Eastern Oregon » Halfway
In a southwest breach of the Wallowa Whitman National Forest and 10 miles west of the Snake River lies tiny Halfway. It’s the remoteness of Halfway and the cuteness of Pine Valley Lodge that makes this a romantic outdoorsy getaway. The bed & breakfast has twelve rooms with two stand-alone cottages, one that is newly built. Go here for hiking along the Snake or into the Wallowas. Stay here for the eiderdown duvets, the stagecoach-era charm and the continental breakfast served every morning. Learn more: www.pvlodge.com
Sionnie LaFollette
» Minam River Lodge
This outing involves effort and reward. Most guests get to the lodge by hiking in 8.5 miles along a trail. Minam River Lodge was born in 2017 as a passion project restoration. The owners put an emphasis on the rewards to those who make the journey. In the Eagle Cap Wilderness, the lodge is surrounded by more than 500 miles of trails, four wild and scenic-designated rivers and wildlife that includes bighorn sheep, bald eagles, bears, deer and elk. The stunning scenery is an inspiration for photographers and picnickers, too. The Minam and Wallowa rivers are two of the most pristine places to catch (and release) brook trout, rainbow and winter and spring steelhead. The accommodations include cabins, lodge rooms and walled tents. Massage and yoga are also available. Learn more: www.minam-lodge.com
It’s hard not to feel romantic in McMinnville. JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 61
Tetherow’s stunning views are just the start of this romantic getaway.
Central Oregon » Tetherow
AT RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Ashland Hills Hotel is fashionable and mod. Headlands is great for going out on an adventure, or staying in. South Beach State Park near Newport offers water views. Breitenbush has hot springs, yoga and massage.
On the edge of the Deschutes National Forest, yet very much in touch with the civilization of outdoor-crazed Bend, Tetherow pairs luxury and the outdoors. The resort includes worldclass golf, a new resort pool, restaurants and nearby are some of the best mountain biking trails in the country. Starting at the Phil’s Trail network and extending as far up into the forest as you can go, these trails can keep you busy and happy for months without riding the same one twice. In town and along the Deschutes River, paddleboards and floatation devices are de rigueur. On terra firma is a burgeoning restaurant scene and breweries galore. Don’t forget to ask for the complimentary Breedlove guitar to set (or ruin) the mood. Learn more: www.tetherow.com
Set along the comely Breitenbush River, Breitenbush Hot Springs Retreat is a different mindspace. On the banks and above the river are clothing-optional natural hot spring pools at perhaps the state’s most placid getaway. The resort has small cozy cabins, lodge rooms and tents on platforms, as well as regular camping sites. It regularly hosts yoga and meditation retreats and has a cafeteria that serves fresh vegetarian cuisine. The one anomaly is that you have to bring your own coffee. In addition to hot springs, yoga and massage, Breitenbush is on the scenic Santiam Pass in the Cascade Range and has trails for hiking, running and good road biking all around. Learn more: www.breitenbush.com 62 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
Steve Tague
» Breitenbush
The COAST » Headlands Ken Royce
Summer is the time for the Oregon Coast. No one frames the coast in a classier light than Headlands Coastal Lodge. On the water at Pacific City, Headlands is a new luxurymeets-adventure property with fantastic ocean views, and restaurant and bar. Check in with an in-house adventure coach to help set your agenda. Surf out the door or hike the UNESCO biosphere Cascade Head and poke out above the fog level in morning, or go crabbing just south in Nehalem Bay. Don’t miss the tidepools and trails at Cape Kiwanda just to the north or just settle in on the beach with a good book and a pint of the finest from the adjacent Pelican Brewery. Learn more: www.headlandslodge.com
Southern Oregon » Ashland Hills Hotel
The Ashland Hills Hotel is a surprise of retro proportions. The 100-room recently renovated hotel is a destination in itself and the jumping-off point for amazing small wineries you have never heard of. This tasteful renovation of a 1970s property smacks of Palm Springs and its classic Mid-century modern architecture and furniture. On the southern end of Ashland, Ashland Hills Hotel is at the doorstep of wineries such as Irvine & Roberts, Belle Fiore and Weisinger and just a few miles north of Siskiyou Mountain Park, with its trails, scenery and remote picnic tables. If done right, you can explore nearby wineries, settle on the perfect bottle of wine and then abscond to your own private picnic table in the woods. Back at the hotel is a hip cocktail lounge for your nightcap. Learn more: www.ashlandhillshotel.com
» Rogue River & Paradise Lodge
This trip is right at the top of the bucket list. Rafting the wild and scenic Rogue River should be on everyone’s radar. We suggest getting on with a reputable and experienced Rogue outfitter, such as Rogue Wilderness Adventures, Rogue River Outfitters or Helfrich River Outfitters. Thrills abound in Class II-IV rapids, but you’ll want to nail the evenings, too. A combination of riverside camping and classic American river lodges puts everyone at ease in one of the most stunning riverine settings around. Paradise Lodge is mandatory for romantic getaways along the storied Rogue. This wilderness lodge is accessible only by water. Fresh local coffee and wines, beers, meat and produce are brought in weekly by boat. Learn more: www.paradise-lodge.com
» Newport & South Beach
Try something out of the ordinary and take up a yurt at South Beach State Park on the coast at Newport. The park has sixty tent sites, twenty-seven yurts and 227 electrical sites for car or RV camping. Turn this into a surfari or a kayak and standup paddle vacation. Agate Beach and South Beach are two surf spots with beach breaks to the left. Yaquina Bay is ideal for kayaking and standup paddling forays. If you are just getting started or are unfamiliar with the area, hop on a scheduled $20 Beaver Creek kayak tour up a freshwater marsh with a guide. Your gear is included in that price. Learn more: www.oregonstateparks.org
JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 63
Willamette Valley At the nexus of growing regions, McMinnville is the beneficiary of wine grapes, hops, mushrooms, fruit and nuts. Think of restaurants and tasting rooms in McMinnville as the receptacles through which all of this bounty flows before being transformed into haute cuisine, or, in some cases, plated in its original form. McMinnville has its own AVA and tasting rooms such as R. Stuart Wine & Co., Elizabeth Chambers Cellars and Willamette Valley Vineyards. With all of the potential to wine and dine in McMinnville and never leave its comfy confines, where does the outdoors enter? The eastern side of the nearby Coast Range is a mecca for chanterelle hunting. To err on the safe side, hire a guide and enjoy. Back in town, take your chanterelles back to Third Street Flats, grab gourmet pasta, salted butter, parmesan, fresh pepper at Harvest Fresh Grocery and Deli and make a simple dish with a good local red wine. Save some chanterelles for tomorrow’s omelet. Learn more: www.visitmcminnville.com
» Warner Mountain Lookout
We had to throw in one of the most simple and exotic romantic outdoor retreats, even if it’s out of season. Fire lookouts are the epitome of getting clear of civilization and into, if above, nature. Warner Mountain Lookout, 75 miles southwest of Eugene in the Willamette National Forest, is a 14-foot-square room sitting atop a 40-foot tower and, often, lots of snow. Available in the winter months, Warner Mountain Lookout is perfect for a 10-mile ski-in or snowshoein romantic outing. A double bed sleeps two and its small kitchen has a propane stove for heating and cooking. Bring tea candles and a good bottle of Oregon rye whiskey and celebrate the winter from a beautiful lair. Learn more: www.recreation.gov 64 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
Sionnie LaFollette
» McMinnville
THE GORGE » Westcliff Lodge & Glamping
Experiencing the Columbia Gorge does not get better than glamping high along its banks. Set on the serene grounds of Westcliff Lodge on the west side of Hood River, the glamp sites thread the needle of indoor-outdoor play with hard-walled, wood-floored tents and outdoor showers. The Gorge is a mecca for wind and water sports—from windsurfing, kiteboarding, fishing and sailing along the reliable winds of the Columbia. Road and mountain biking are also at a premium on the shoulder of Mount Hood. Not to be forgotten are the many venues along the fruit loop for local wine and fruit. In town, Hood River is home to some of the best uses of hops, too. Double Mountain Brewery, pFriem, Solera or Walking Man across the river in Stevenson are all options. Any way you do it, this glamping-led escape will be one for the books. Learn more: www.westclifflodge.com
» Double Mountain Horse Ranch
Try the Gorge on horseback. Double Mountain Horse Ranch is your pass to reaching waterfalls and riding through them on horseback for a thrilling natural experience in Hood River. Have your own “wild” adventure by streaming through the scene of the Pacific Crest Trail movie sensation, Wild, at Dry Creek Falls. Other horseback tours include sunset, mountain views and wine outings. Unsaddle and drop into the nicely situated Best Western in Hood River. The hot tub overlooking the Columbia River is a must. Head over to the Hood River Waterfront for Solstice Wood Fire Pizza and beer, or amble into town for dozens more culinary options. Learn more: www.ridinginhoodriver.com
JULY | AUGUST 2019
Timberline Lodge/Drew Smalley Photography
MOUNT HOOD » Timberline
No legitimate contemplation of outdoor escapes can be meaningful without involving the stately grandfather mountain residence— Timberline Lodge. This masterpiece of W.P.A. Depression-era grand lodge encompasses class, nostalgia, history and the outdoors. On the side of Mount Hood and at the center of ski and hiking trails, Timberline Lodge is a four-season proposition for those who like to bring history into their exploration. Built in 1937 under the Works Progress Administration, Timberline was visited by President Franklin Delano Roosevelt that September. “The people of the United States are singularly fortunate in having such great areas of the outdoors in the permanent possession of the people themselves—permanently available for many different forms of use,” FDR said that day. From the lodge, guests can light out on local trails, including the Pacific Crest Trail, and take in the Labor Day outdoor music festival that is a tribute to the Grateful Dead. If snow abounds, hit some of the best slopes in the Pacific Northwest and cozy up to the huge firepits with a cocktail from the Ram’s Head Bar. Learn more: www.timberlinelodge.com
» Trillium Lake
Timberline Lodge is a perfect starting point for adventure in all seasons, including summer when the mountain doubles as a bike park. AT LEFT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Warner Mountain Lookout is a perfect winter getaway. Westcliff Lodge’s glamping sites make a Hood River vacation more exciting. The Best Western Plus Hood River Inn is right on the Columbia. Wine tasting in McMinnville is sublime.
Swimming, hiking, fishing and stargazing abound at Trillium Lake. Close to Government Camp in the Mt. Hood National Forest, Trillium Lake is known for its stunning beauty. Shoot for weekdays when the campground is less crowded. Bring a vessel to paddle off into solitude. Venture out on a clear night and lose yourself beneath a maze of constellations. The Trillium Lake Loop is an easy 3.6-mile trail that any member of the family can handle. Learn more: www.fs.usda.gov 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 65
Amazed by the
Bell
The Liberty Bell dazzled Oregonians during its 1915 nationwide tour to stoke patriotism for the war written by Kristine Deacon photography courtesy of Independence National Historical Park
66 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
FROM LEFT People gather around the Liberty Bell during its stop in Cayuse in 1915. The crowds in Cayuse. The Liberty Bell’s specially made rail cart.
The 1915 annual Umatilla Reservation Indian Festival was in full swing on July 12 when it was upstaged by a remarkable sight. Arriving on a specially designed train, the nation’s Liberty Bell, on tour from Philadelphia, chugged into the Cayuse depot. Indians in full regalia, Chinese in native dress, and hundreds of others gaped at the Liberty Bell. Liberty Bell officials and the train crew gaped back. The bell’s official photographers took photos and recorded film. “It is doubtful whether the red people were half as interested in the bell as the Philadelphians were in them,” The Daily East Oregonian reported. As the Liberty Bell Special made its 10,000-mile journey across the United States that summer, stopping at 275 cities, towns and hamlets, a quarter of all Americans came to see it. The nation’s population had just hit 100 million, half of all families lived on farms, people outnumbered cars by fifty to one, and 30 percent of households had no phone. Thirteen percent of the people in the United States were immigrants, Europe was fighting a World War, President Woodrow Wilson was trying to persuade the United States to join the war, and public sentiment was turning against immigration. The copper-and-tin bell left Philadelphia on July 4, and arrived in Baker, Oregon, on July 12. Tens of thousands of Oregonians gathered to see the Liberty Bell that July. In Roseburg, boys climbed telephone poles to get a better view of it; in Portland,
a judge released prisoners from jail so they could see it, and in Salem, “Men, Women and Children Shout and Scream With Delight and Enthusiasm and Old Men Weep in Joy At Sight of Beloved Relic,” the Salem Capitol Journal reported. The Liberty Bell was “the silent symbol of liberty by millions of Americans, cherished as the most sacred relic in the country … growing each year more dear to the citizens of America,” The Oregonian reported. On July 4, 1776, the 2,080-pound bell was hanging in Philadelphia’s Independence Hall when the Declaration of Independence was signed, and the bell rang to announce the new nation—a story presented in dozens of schoolbooks, cementing the bell’s legend. In 1915, President Woodrow Wilson sent the bell on a nationwide train tour, hoping to raise patriotic fervor, and support for Wilson’s plan to enter the First World War, wrote author Stephen Fried in “Saved by the Bell,” in a 2017 issue of Smithsonian. Today, the Liberty Bell is on display at Independence National Historical Park in Philadelphia, where park officials estimate 2.2 million people visit it each year. The Liberty Bell Special was a custom-designed, seven-car Pullman train. Its sixth car, built with heavyduty shock absorbers, carried the cracked bell, which hung from heavy oak beams, under a copper canopy. At night, a generator lit the bell so people could see it as its train rushed through the dark. JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 67
The Liberty Bell Special was a custom-designed, seven-car Pullman train. Its sixth car, built with heavy-duty shock absorbers, carried the cracked bell, which hung from heavy oak beams, under a copper canopy. At night, a generator lit the bell so people could see it as its train rushed through the dark. Oregon Governor James Withycombe met it in Weiser, Idaho, on July 12. When the bell and Withycombe arrived in Baker, the governor greeted a crowd of 10,000. “In the name of the people of Oregon I welcome the Liberty Bell into the state,” Withycombe said. “Its visit is a distinct honor to Oregon and the inspiration thus given us should make us better in every way and more useful citizens.” Local school children formed a “human flag” to welcome the train, and the Sumpter Valley Railroad offered half-price tickets to Baker. After a luncheon at Baker’s Antlers Hotel, Withycombe continued to Union, where he stopped to visit his son, Robert, who was living there. In Union, 500 people met the bell, and the Union Flouring Mill gave children free automobile rides. The train continued to La Grande, where the Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints chorus serenaded it with “Columbia, Gem of the Ocean.” The local newspaper, The La Grande Observer, was delivered late that day, because all its typesetters went to see the bell. The Liberty Bell Special continued to Cayuse, where Native Americans performed a war dance. Then the train stopped briefly in nearby Mission at the reservation school, where officials handed out tiny U.S. flags to the children. In Pendleton, acting mayor John Dyer proclaimed July 12 “Liberty Bell Day,” and ordered all businesses in Pendleton to close from 4:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. Earlier, Liberty Bell officials had asked T.D. Taylor, president of the Pendleton Round-Up, to arrange “some Indians and cowboys at the depot.” Pictures of them were to be used in newspapers and films about the bell’s journey, and Taylor was enthusiastic about publicizing the RoundUp, but he couldn’t organize cowboys and Indians on such short notice. Instead, flags lined the streets of Pendleton, and 1,000 people climbed on boxcars to get a closer look at the bell. Train officials handed out souvenirs—metal badges and bell-shaped pamphlets. The Liberty Bell left Oregon to enter Washington at Walla Walla, then traveled to Seattle and returned to
Oregon on July 15. Just before drawing into Portland at 6 a.m., it stopped at Fort Vancouver and was greeted by the 21st Infantry band. “Negro Soldier Kisses Bell, Vancouver Crowd Cheers Patriotic Act of Sergeant White,” The Oregonian reported. “Sergeant White, a colored solder who has served more than 30 years in the United States Army, today created intense enthusiasm among the 3,000 early risers. ‘I was born under that bell, I have lived under, fought under it and will die under it,’ he shouted.” Later, when the bell was in Arlington, Texas, returning to Philadelphia, a riot broke out when a young black girl kissed the bell, Fried reported. Once in Portland, a parade led by Grand Marshal Henry Pittock, The Oregonian’s publisher, met the bell. The Third Regiment of the Oregon National Guard, fresh from training at Gearhart, marched in the parade alongside veterans from three wars, politicians, school children and several bands. Forty U.S.-born children of Chinese parents, dressed in Chinese clothing, marched in the parade, delighting the crowd and the train dignitaries. The Liberty Bell Special officials and the members of Portland’s welcoming committee were presented with bronze medals made by Portland jewelers A. & C. Feldenheimer, with an image of the Liberty Bell on one side, a rose on the other, and the dignitaries’ names engraved below the rose. After breakfast, officials were taken for a swim at the Multnomah Athletic Club. The Oregonian estimated that 60,000 people came to Portland to see the bell. Two prisoners at the Portland jail—Daisy McWilliams and Anna Edwards—implored municipal judge James Stevenson to release them so they could take advantage of their once-in-a-lifetime chance to see the bell, and he did. Portland’s entire police force was called out to manage crowd control. The train pulled out of Portland just after noon, decorated with thousands of Oregon roses, its dining car stocked with several big Chinook salmon.
AT RIGHT, FROM TOP The Liberty Bell’s route across the U.S. during its 1915 tour. Oregon Governor James Withycombe, center, and Baker mayor Charles Palmer, left, stand with the bell in Baker.
68 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 69
70 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
The Salem Cherrian Band was playing when the train arrived in Salem at 2 p.m., where about 35,000 people, in crowds that stretched seven city blocks, greeted it. City officials presented the train staff with fresh Salem-grown cherries, and the city’s mail was delivered late that day, because the local postmaster gave letter carriers time off to visit the bell. The Moose Band of Albany was playing when the train arrived in Albany, where the crowd included people from Corvallis, Brownsville and Lebanon, who had commissioned special trains to take them to Albany. The Liberty Bell Special stopped for ten minutes in Junction City to take on water, where several hundred people waited for their brief glimpse of the bell. Fifteen thousand people waited at the Eugene depot, many of them stationed on nearby roofs. “Where amateur photographers could not get into position to get a good picture, the train staff took cameras and snapped buttons,” the Eugene Daily Guard recorded. Roseburg’s Elks, in “natty white uniforms,” kept the crowds “moving and in good humor,” reported the Roseburg Evening News. People came to see the bell from all over the area: “Every road in Douglas County leads to Roseburg, and they came from Wilbur, Sutherlin, Coles Valley Roberts Creek, Looking Glass and a score of other near and far,” and “a number of Boy Scouts from way over at Bandon and North Bend said they would not have missed it if the distance had been twice as far, and the canyons swollen with water.” As the train rushed south to San Francisco to be present for the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition, its schedule called for traveling without stopping through Medford before halting in Ashland, triggering a new round of civic rivalry between the two cities. Medford city officials frantically contacted Oregon U.S. Senator George Chamberlain, imploring him to use his influence to get the bell to stop in Medford— Chamberlain arranged for the stop. When the train pulled into Medford at 2:15 a.m., 5,000 people met it, and “there was an outburst of cheers, and a general lifting of hats,” the Medford Mail Tribune reported. Ashland suspended, for one day, its ban on fireworks, which illuminated the darkness when the bell stopped there for ten minutes. “I was delighted beyond expression the other day when that splendid old precious relic, the Liberty Bell, came to our state, and to see the spontaneous outpouring of our people to do honor to that old bell … it did us good here to reinspire, as it were, the higher ideals and nobler thoughts of citizenship,” Withycombe said a week later, speaking in Portland to the National Society of the Sons of the American Revolution. AT LEFT Crowds gathered to see the Liberty Bell all around the state (clockwise from top left: Salem, Baker, Eugene, Portland and Portland).
JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 71
Picture Perfect photography by Joe Kline LOOK THROUGH AN old family photo album or peruse a historical society or museum, and you’ll find eerie tintype photography of years ago. Using a Civil War-era photographic process to make one-of-a-kind portraits of his subjects, Jason Chinchen is harking back to those olden times. The images are created by applying a light-sensitive silver emulsion to a thin piece of metal and then exposing it in a camera and developing it. Chinchen’s business, Analogue Tintypes, travels to various pop-up events around Central Oregon making tintype portraits for the public, and makes portraits in private sittings as well.
Jason Chinchen loads a 4x5 film holder containing a light-sensitive aluminum plate coated in collodion and silver nitrate while preparing to make a portrait of Arthur Tripp during a pop-up event at Velvet in Bend in March. “I haven’t sat for a portrait since my (high school) senior pictures. Much different experience,� Tripp said.
74 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
Chinchen instructs 5-year-old Astrid Petkun on the do’s and don’ts of sitting for a tintype portrait during his pop-up event at Velvet. Tintypes require a lot of light to expose properly. With the continuous light sources and lenses Chinchen uses, subjects need to sit still for an exposure lasting approximately twelve to eighteen seconds. Subjects can blink, but any other movement can result in a blurred image. FAR LEFT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Petkun is seen on the glass on the back of Chinchen’s 4x5 camera. Photographers of the past and present doing tintype photography typically use a 4x5 or another large-format camera—tintypes are a oneof-a-kind direct positive process, so no negative is created for enlargement. Largeformat cameras display the actual size of the image flipped on the back, where a photographer can check focus before loading a film carrier. Chinchen positions a headrest behind Walter Petkun, 11. The headrest helps stabilize a subject for the longer exposure times necessary to create the tintype. Chinchen uses a loupe to check focus on the back of his camera.
JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 75
Chinchen removes a plate from a silver nitrate bath while working in a converted darkroom at his pop-up. He uses aluminum plates, which are first coated in a collodion solution, then placed in a silver nitrate bath for several minutes. This step makes the plate light-sensitive, so it must be loaded into a film holder and unloaded after exposure in the dark or in red darkroom lighting. The plate needs to stay wet for the entire process for it to remain lightsensitive, also referred to as wet-plate photography. This makes the process time-sensitive as well.
76 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
ABOVE Kayla Ellsworth watches as her portrait becomes visible in the fixer. After the plate is finished in the fixer, it is rinsed and dried, and later a varnish is applied to protect the emulsion. BOTTOM, FROM LEFT After heating a finished tintype plate over a flame, Chinchen pours a varnish over it. The varnish is then heated again to set and dry on the plate. Chinchen and his daughter, Avery Chinchen, 14, look over a scanned tintype. Chinchen scans the finished tintypes and only keeps a digital copy of his work. “The originals aren’t as important to me as the people they belong to,” he said.
JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 77
TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 80 ADVENTURE 82 LODGING 84 TRIP PLANNER 86 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92
pg. 82 Tiptoe through the treetops at an aerial adventure course.
Travel Spotlight
Up in the Air Get ready for views that span state lines on the Wallowa Lake Tramway written by Sheila G. Miller
Travel Oregon/Sascha Rettig
HEAD FOR THE hills this summer in Eastern Oregon. There is no shortage of mountains to climb around Oregon, but you can head for the hills this summer with ease, thanks to the Wallowa Lake Tramway. The Swiss-made tram, built in 1970, climbs 3,700 feet to the summit of Mount Howard. From the summit, you’ll be able to see Washington, Idaho and (maybe) Montana on a clear day. There are miles of trails nearby that lead to scenic overlooks, or bring your mountain bike to the top and head back down on two wheels. A more leisurely option includes the Summit Grill, which has an alpine patio just right for taking in the views and maybe a local beer or snack. The tram runs every day from June 1 to September 30, with hours in July and August running 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Breakfast and lunch are served daily, and there’s a social hour with live music each day between 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. Adults ride for $35 each, with lower prices for students, military, seniors and kids.
80 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
The Wallowa Lake Tramway takes visitors to the top of Mount Howard.
adventure
Treetop Tarzans Aerial adventurers zip, sway and swoop on carefully designed courses written by Jennifer Burns Bright MONKEYS AREN’T THE only ones who can swing from trees. Increasingly popular at resorts and outdoor destinations, “American Ninja”-style aerial courses challenge visitors to sway on zigzaggy wooden bridges set between high platforms, climb rope webs and zip through the sky. Some even dare the fearless to leap to the ground or into water. We’ve selected three of Oregon’s coolest courses—all surrounded by nature in breathtaking areas—to explore on your summer vacation. KLAMATH FALLS
Crater Lake Zipline If hiking through the forests or fishing near Crater Lake seems too leisurely, how about zipping through the canopy of pine and fir trees? Just thirty-five minutes from Crater Lake National Park, Crater Lake Zipline affords magnificent 360-degree views of Upper Klamath Lake and Mount McLoughlin as riders sail over the treetops. Kids can now climb over their own spider webs and bridge challenges on the new Sasquatch Hollow kids’ four-zipline aerial course, which opened in 2017. For more fun, opt for the Skyak combo package, which includes a kayak trip on Upper Klamath Lake. The park, surrounded by the Fremont-Winema National Forest, features a UTV ride a mile and a half up the mountain to access nine ziplines. Zippers remain in the tree canopy for the duration, balancing on bridges and rope obstacles before rappelling down to the ground. Co-owner Jennifer Roe loves the zipline called “Peter Pan,” not because at 1,425 feet it’s reportedly the longest in Oregon, but because “as you’re zipping down, the way the sun falls on the lines makes it seem as if your shadow is chasing you, like Peter Pan’s did in the movie. The guides tell you not to lose it.” WARRENTON
High Life Adventures Lewis and Clark suffered greatly in 1805 while overwintering at Fort Clatsop in current-day Warrenton. Contemporary travelers find this community south of Astoria much more fun. Near the historic site lies the 30-acre property for High Life Adventures. With eight ziplines that cross through the forest, a 7-acre pond, and an on-site pub and grill, the park was created in 2012 using fallen trees on the property. Dave Larson, who also co-owns an excavation company with his wife, Lancey, laughingly calls himself a “tree-hugging logger” thanks to this eco-conscious strategy. 82 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
Just thirty-five minutes from Crater Lake National Park, Crater Lake Zipline affords magnificent 360-degree views of Upper Klamath Lake and Mount McLoughlin as riders sail over the treetops.
adventure
SAFETY FIRST For those more cautious than daring, don’t worry. With rigorously tested harness systems that clip each participant to the cables that gird the courses, one’s inner Tarzan can come out and play safely. Trained personnel provide coaching before the activities begin, and monitor progress from platforms along the way. Websites explain everything you’ll need to take and leave behind. Call ahead to reserve and ask about each course’s age, height and weight requirements.
Zippers speed down a 930-foot cable and can race tandem, but what really tests the mettle is hands-free zipping over the pond, stretching sideways to touch the water … or requesting a dunking by an attendant, who duly adjusts the tension of the line. Manager Katie Rummell likes to ride on her favorite element, the Zwing, when she’s not baking bread for the restaurant. An upgrade from the regular package, the Zwing attaches thrillseekers to a 20-foot bungee-cord-like springy lanyard from an overhead wire and lets them take a free-falling leap from the platform. Bombs away! Editor’s note: The company is in the midst of building a new aerial adventure park in neighboring Seaside, which is expected to open in July. GLENEDEN BEACH
Salishan Resort
FROM TOP Salishan’s adventure course opened in April. Crater Lake Zipline’s nine lines are in the Fremont-Winema National Forest.
The 158-acre iconic Pacific Northwest modernist resort built overlooking Siletz Bay and set in the trees by visionary designer John Gray in 1965 was meant to welcome the lush forest indoors through large windows. Gray likely could not have envisioned guests climbing into the trees themselves. A brand new adventure course, opened in April 2019, is the latest project in a major upgrade campaign by new owners (a Southern Californiabased investment group) who bought the Mid-century marvel in the tiny central coast community of Gleneden Beach in 2017. In Salishan’s aerial course, adventurers must choose their own path through the park, attacking twenty-one elements from fifteen aerial platforms. Highlights include a 110-foot suspension bridge, a barrel hop using an overhead rope for balance, and a cargo-net crossing. Initially designed to include ziplines, the resort met resistance from neighbors fearing noise and crowds, so it altered the plans. “As an eco-friendly operation, we took that feedback seriously and altered our plans,” said Salishan’s general manager, Ryan McCarthy. From “The Crow’s Nest” deck, accessed by a 70-foot ladder secured to a giant Sitka spruce, one can see why. Once in the canopy, climbers can take in the beauty and calm—Siletz Bay, miles of the Pacific, and a seemingly endless summer. JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 83
ROOMS
The thirty-four-room resort includes spacious king and double-king Ranch House rooms, as well as private two-bedroom luxury log cabins overlooking tranquil Otter Lake and the Silvies Valley, so you can bring the whole family … or not. Rooms and cabins are kitted out with Pendleton bedding and towels, 65-inch flatscreen televisions, golf cart charging stations, and well-stocked kitchenettes. There isn’t cell service on the ranch, but rooms, cabins and common areas have wifi, and you’ll receive a pre-programmed walkie-talkie upon check-in, should you require an extra pillow, tee time, the bartender or salvation from a conniving cougar.
FEATURES
The ranch’s crown jewel of relaxation is the 17,000-square-foot Rocking Heart Spa, where you can work out in the fitness room, practice all the new moves you learned watching Free Solo on the rock climbing wall, hone your backstroke in the half-size Olympic lap pool, or indulge in a leisurely facial and Medicine Spring Hot Rocks massage. Afterwards, melt any remaining cares away in the cedar sauna or soaking pool.
DINING
Executive chef Damon Jones’ frontier fare features the ranch’s organic pastureraised beef and goat, house-cured sausage, garden-grown herbs and microgreens, and homemade bread, butter, pickles and preserves. Book the seven-course chef’s tasting menu, served at the long communal table; start with warm slabs of the ranch’s signature sourdough bread, made with a proudly pedigreed 100-year-old starter, savor slow-braised short ribs and sweet potato spaetzle, and finish with warm apple pie topped with white cheddar whipped cream. Afterward, sample the bar’s 100+ varieties of Scotch, then sit by the campfire overlooking the valley—if it’s your lucky night, bar manager Jeff Campbell might just mosey over with a tray of s’mores fixings. For breakfast, tuck into hefty plates of pastrami hash and stacks of sourdough pancakes with beef brisket bacon, washed down with cowboy coffee or a big ol’ Bloody Mary.
AMENITIES
Ranger-led experiences abound—book an eco-tour of the ranch via speedy Polaris RZR, practice your vintage pistol skills on one of three shooting ranges, try your hand at goat herding, take a Clydesdale-powered surrey ride, or golf the day away, then reward yourself with the ranch’s signature cocktail—the Horseshoe Nail, made with rye whiskey and garnished with a pickled crabapple skewered on its namesake.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Silvies is a working ranch. Four golf courses dot the ranch. Finish your day with a cocktail.
Lodging
The Retreat, Links & Spa at Silvies Valley Ranch written by Jen Stevenson EVERYTHING’S A LITTLE BIGGER at Silvies Valley Ranch, from the double-wide sourdough cinnamon rolls to the spectacular Eastern Oregon views stretching in every direction. Founded in 1883, the working ranch— located midway between John Day and Burns, in the center of the Malheur National Forest—sprawls across more than 140,000 acres of private and National Forest land teeming with fragrant sagebrush, Ponderosa pines, wildlife and wildflowers. But while the scenery is as pristine as the Oregon Trail days, the eco-resort’s amenities are considerably more luxurious—with four golf courses, an award-winning restaurant and the largest full-service spa in Oregon, there’s really no reason to ever return to so-called “civilization.” After buying the ranch as a family retreat in 2006, Burns-born veterinarian Scott Campbell and his wife, Sandy, founders of Banfield Pet Hospital, set about restoring the vast property to its former natural glory—bringing back flood irrigation, re-establishing beaver and otter habitats, and crafting nearly 4,000 Audubon Society-designed bird and bat houses from salvaged pine to help foster natural pest control. In that same vein, The Retreat, Links & Spa at Silvies Valley Ranch is a golfers’ mecca with a mission: to have the lowest carbon footprint per hole of any modern golf course in the country (hence the solar-panel-topped, completely off-the-grid clubhouse). Tee off on one of the four Dan Hixson-designed golf courses that wind through the hauntingly scenic high desert landscape—the reversible eighteenhole Hankins and Craddock championship courses, seven-hole McVeigh’s Gauntlet ridge course, and Chief Egan, a nine-hole, par-3 course set in lush mountain meadows. Keep an eye out and you just might see a pronghorn antelope, sandhill crane or golden eagle, but perhaps the most exciting critter you’ll encounter is your caddy. The ranch has 3,000 resident goats, several of whom will carry your clubs, then bleat into your backswing. 10000 RENDEZVOUS LANE SENECA www.silvies.us
Oregon Shakespeare Festival
YOU DON’T HAVE TO TRAVEL FAR TO EXPERIENCE UNFORGETTABLE Between the true blue waters of Crater Lake and the prehistoric tunnels of the Oregon Caves is a land of lush farms, winding waters flowing in wild rivers, vineyards growing every variety of grape you can think of, picturesque downtowns to shop and stroll, and a nearly year-round Shakespeare Festival boasting productions rivaling ones you’d see in London itself. Experience Southern Oregon and one of our unique properties. Enjoy mineral soaking baths, historic ambiance, lush gardens, retro-modern design, wine garden and more.
Downtown Ashland - Historic Ashland Springs Hotel
BOOK YOUR NEXT GETAWAY NeumanHotelGroup.com Mineral Water Retreat - Lithia Springs Resort
Ashland Springs Hotel • Lithia Springs Resort • Inn at the Commons Ashland Hills Hotel & Suites • LARKS • Luna Cafe • Waterstone Spa
trip planner
Newberg has maintained its rural feel.
Winning Wine Country Newberg and Chehalem hold their own in this part of the wine world written by Sheila G. Miller
SEEMS LIKE THESE DAYS, the world has discovered Oregon’s Willamette Valley and its wine, but the epicenter always seems to be McMinnville. There are so many other little outposts around the region. We decided to focus our tour in Newberg and Chehalem and see what the rest of the world might be missing.
Day COFFEE • DOWNTOWN • WINE TASTING Most tasting rooms open at 11 a.m., so that’s when it’s apparently OK to start drinking wine. Get acquainted with the town of Newberg by enjoying wine right in the downtown core—you can get to the views tomorrow. Start in an industrial district a few minutes from downtown Newberg, and since it’s early, you can grab a coffee from Caravan Coffee’s roastery. The shop is a longtime favorite in Newberg, ethically sourcing its beans and making a great cup of coffee. You can tour the roastery and try out coffees in the tasting room.
86 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
trip planner
Get acquainted with the town of Newberg by enjoying wine right in the downtown core—you can get to the views tomorrow. Then hop across the street to Owen Roe’s tasting room. This winery has two locations—here in Newberg and in the Yakima Valley, and sources its grapes from both regions. The result is some very special Oregon pinot noir, as well as deep, rich Washington reds. You’ll taste wines from both these terroirs in the tiny, unassuming tasting room. For lunch, it’s time to head downtown and try Ruddick/Wood. This dark-wood, hip spot could easily fit in as part of a swanky neighborhood in Portland or another big city. There’s a tavern in the rear of the establishment, and up front are small tables that look out through wide windows onto First Street. Lunch offers a small menu of sandwiches and a few other options, and a decent wine list if you want to continue tasting through the meal. Dinner and brunch options are good here, too. Take a stroll through downtown after lunch. The Newberg downtown is small but rich in its offerings. I like to judge towns by their independent bookstores, and Newberg has the charming, if small, Chapters Books and Coffee. The store has a curated selection of used and new books, and a lovely coffee area. The day I visited, there were at least a dozen college-age students drinking coffee and studying. Velour would fit right in dropped intact on Hawthorne Boulevard in Portland, with its mix of thrift-store chic and hipster options—I’m talking prairie dresses, worn leather boots and band T-shirts galore. It gives Newberg a level of cool I didn’t know it had. Next, swing through Nikki Jane’s Boutique, a sweet boutique with accessibly priced accessories and fashion. Uflora, just off the main drag on College Street, has an impressive array of houseplants in its storefront, and Lineage has neat homegoods options you won’t see elsewhere. All in all, the town’s stores are much more interesting and vibrant than most small communities, and it was a fun afternoon browsing. Once you’ve gotten your shopping done, have a few more tastes of local wine. Et Fille Wines has an adorable tasting room on First Street. The space is modern with clean lines and bright white walls, and that allows the wine to shine. Et Fille started in 2003 as a father-daughter project. After Howard Mezeico died in 2017, his daughter, Jessica Mezeico, kept the winery going. The whites are as bright as the tasting room. Next, stop in at Chehalem Winery’s tasting room. This spot has a fun industrial feel, and the winery makes an interesting 88 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
LEFT Colene Clemens wins “best view award.” AT RIGHT, FROM TOP Caravan Coffee is a longtime local favorite. Ruddick/Wood’s fare has style. The Allison Inn & Spa is the height of class. Owen Roe’s tasting room is understated.
variety of wines. It makes tasting interesting, because often in the Willamette Valley you can start to feel bogged down by so many delicious pinot noirs. There are several other options for wine tasting in the downtown core. Bravuro Cellars features big, bold reds with distinct flavors. Artisanal Wine Cellars offers flights of its wines and changes them up each month. Plus, this spot is open until 8 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Finish up with a plate of homemade pasta at Rosmarino Osteria Italiana. This downtown delight flies under the radar, but the authentic Northern Italian food will leave you with a smile. Dario and Sheena Pisoni make food from grandma’s recipe book. Be sure to make a reservation, and know that different days mean different menus (including a five-course wine pairing dinner on Saturday nights—$95 per person). When it’s time to call it a night, there really isn’t a better spot to land than The Allison Inn & Spa. Every room has a fireplace, the resort features expansive gardens just right for strolling, and the spa has treatments such as the “mimosa,” a massage using champagne oil.
The Allison Inn & Spa
Andrea Johnson
Ruddick/Wood
trip planner
Day BACKROADS • LLAMAS • DRIVE-IN Today is a day for the backroads of Newberg and Chehalem, checking out far-flung wineries. After breakfast at The Allison’s farm-to-table restaurant, JORY, strike out for that lucky 11 a.m. hour to start the wine tasting. The winner for best views may just go to Colene Clemens Vineyards. Depending which way you get there, it involves several miles on a gravel road, but it’s worth it. A large patio offers killer views of the rolling hills below, with a perfectly worn barn to fit in the background of your selfies. Tasters will try four pinot noirs, all named for family members, as well as a rosé of pinot noir that tasting room employees call “summer in a bottle.” After you’ve Instagrammed the perfection of this spot, head down to ROCO Winery. What this tasting room lacks in views it makes up for in delicious wine and a modern aesthetic filled with glass art. ROCO, started by Rollin and Corby Soles, is a newer member of JULY | AUGUST 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 89
EAT Ruddick/Wood www.ruddickwood.com The Painted Lady www.thepaintedlady restaurant.com Rosmarino Osteria Italiana www.osteriarosmarino.com
STAY
Carly Diaz
NEWBERG AND CHEHALEM, OREGON
trip planner
The Allison Inn & Spa www.theallison.com
PLAY Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery www.wolvesandpeople.com Newberg Downtown www.newbergdowntown.org Caravan Coffee www.caravancoffee.com 99W Drive In www.99W.com
When you tire of wine, hit up Wolves & People, a farmhouse brewery with delicious beer.
the rich heritage of Willamette Valley wine. Rollin Soles co-founded Argyle, one of the OG wineries in the area, and his expertise in wine shows in each bottle. In a choose-your-own-adventure sort of way, you can go any number of directions from ROCO, and no matter what you’ll find great wine. There’s Adelsheim Vineyard, with a huge tasting room and tremendous views. PennerAsh Wine Cellars has a terrific outdoor area and is dog-friendly, while REX HILL offers fun tours of the property. Rain Dance Vineyards has a couple of friendly llamas to entertain you while you taste. Whatever path you choose, treat yourself to a fine-dining dinner experience at The Painted Lady. This restaurant, set in a Victorian home, changes menu by the season, and the food is presented beautifully. The tasting menu features fresh ingredients in unusual combinations— think seared diver scallop with spring vegetables and a grapefruit hollandaise. Add a wine pairing to the tasting menu if you like. Finally, Newberg has a special treat for movie lovers—a working drive-in. The 99W Drive-In is open Friday through Sunday nights, shows classics such as The Goonies as well as new releases, and sound is delivered through a FM radio channel. The perfect end to a perfect day.
Day HISTORY • EDUCATION • BEER If you’re all wined out, there are other options in Newberg. The childhood home of Herbert Hoover sits in the middle of Newberg, now the 90 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
Hoover-Minthorn House Museum. The house was built in 1881 and is the oldest standing home in what was the original township of Newberg. Hoover, who was taken in by his aunt and uncle after his parents died, lived in the home for three years before moving to Salem and eventually on to be in the first class of students at Stanford University. The museum features much of the original furnishings of the home, including the furniture in a young Herbert Hoover’s room. The museum, a nice slice of history, is open Wednesday through Sunday from March to November, only on weekends in December and February and closed in January. Do yourself a favor, too, by exploring the grounds of George Fox University. The 108-acre campus was founded as a Quaker school called Friends Pacific Academy in 1885. It’s a pretty campus with a rose garden, amphitheater and a picturesque bridge over a small canyon. Finally, this is Oregon so there is also beer to taste, and Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery is the perfect place to stop on your way out of town. When I pulled up to Wolves & People, I did a quick check of my phone to make sure I’d made all the correct turns. There wasn’t much in the way of signage, and I wasn’t quite sure how best to enter. I walked to the side, where the farmhouse door had been thrown open, leading right into the room holding the beer tanks. Inside this unassuming setup was a small bar with a bowl of pretzel sticks sitting on one end. I’d had a lot of wine that day, so I opted for a small pour of a New England IPA called Honeycone. It was wonderful, and I wished I’d saved room for more beer tastings. I left with a promise to return.
northwest destination
Small, But Mighty
Retreat to Camano Island, a pint-sized nirvana for all manner of play written by Heather Larson
Camano Island State Park was built by locals in a single day.
IN 1949, A GROUP of 500 locals brought their tools and sweat equity to a beach site at Point Lowell on Camano Island and built a park in one day. Camano Island State Park became the first on the island, a place where residents and visitors could recreate. In 2007, Freedom Park, a 12,000-square-foot wooden playground, was constructed in five days by 1,000 volunteers. Camano Islanders love the outdoors and have developed some remarkable spots for all to enjoy. The island feel remains rural, peaceful and mostly undiscovered, yet there’s enough to do to keep you on-island for however long you stay. A ninety-minute drive from Seattle—no ferry ride required— the “easy island” stretches to almost 16 miles in length and extends 6 miles at its widest point. Edged by Port Susan on the east and Saratoga Passage on the west, water sports flourish. The ideal genesis for your marine adventures is The Center for Wooden Boats at Cama Beach Historical State Park. Not only can the experts there tell you where to see whales, they’ll also rent you a boat. 92 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
For swimming, wading, beachcombing and sunbathing, proceed to Iverson Spit Waterfront Preserve. Be aware of the tides, though, or you could get stranded on the mud flats. Both state parks (you’ll need a Discover Pass, good for a year at $35) also have miles of shoreline open to the public. Beaches and a multitude of other locations make ideal hiding places for “clue balls.” Great Northwest Glass Quest, an annual event that takes place each February, draws eager treasure hunters. A found clue ball holds directions to claim your limitededition Glass Quest Ball crafted by Mark and Marcus Ellinger, a father-son glass-blowing duo. To view the Ellingers in action, visit their studio in Stanwood, just across the bridge from Camano. Trade a land view for one on high by ziplining at Canopy Tours Northwest on the Kristoferson Farm. A few short hikes interspersed with six ziplines and a belay from a century-old cedar tree at the end will stir up your adrenaline. In 1912, Alfred Kristoferson bought 1,400 acres on Camano where he maintained a thriving dairy farm. Today, the fourth
CAMANO ISLAND, WASHINGTON
northwest destination
EAT Cama Beach Café www.camabeachcafe.com Crow’s Nest on Camano www.crowsnestoncamano.com The Baked Café www.thebakedcafe.com Pub 282 www.pub282.com Rockaway Bar + Grill www.rockawaycamano.com Camano Commons Marketplace www.camanocommons.com
STAY Camano Island Inn www.camanoislandinn.com Cama Beach Historical State Park www.parks.state.wa.us/483/ Cama-Beach Camano Island State Park (cabins) www.parks.state.wa.us/408/ Camano-Island-State-Park Sea Mist Waterfront Inn www.seamistwaterfrontinn.com
PLAY Ziplining www.canopytoursnw.com The Center for Wooden Boats www.cwb.org/cama
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Matzke Gallery and Sculpture Park has 10 acres of outdoor art. The landmark crab sign greets visitors at Camano Commons Marketplace. Blown glass is there for the taking, thanks to the Great Northwest Glass Quest.
generation of the family runs the business. One of the farm’s signature events, Dinner in the Barn, showcases local ingredients and chefs Donna King and Jeremiah Leighton with a five-course meal, plus wine pairings. You can continue your wine tasting at Dusty Cellars and Edward Lynne Cellars, or try some craft brews at Ale Spike Camano Island Brewery. Both wineries open to the public during the art tours held on Camano. Enchanted, fairylike and a place to spend hours and still not see it all, Matzke Gallery and Sculpture Park’s 10-acre display sends you around bushes, behind trees and straight ahead to discover what sculptors have conceived. Feel free to return, because depending on the time of day or season, the sculptures change in appearance. New ones are also added. Don’t forget to stop at the indoor gallery, which features the brightest
artistic talent from the Pacific Northwest, the United States and Japan. One last stop to visit Jennifer Short, a veterinarian and chief bee wrangler at Camano Island Honey. Find out what she’s doing to save the bees and pollinators. Schedule a tour, if you have a keen interest, by calling or emailing ahead. When rest calls to you, the hot tub and luxury guest rooms at Camano Island Inn will reinvigorate you for your next island adventure. Equally as restful, with the waves slapping the shore and the cleansmelling air, are the beachfront cabins at Cama Beach Historical State Park. A trip to Camano Commons lets you take in the perfect number of calories of ice cream, baked goods or a full meal. Pick up some handcrafted items to remind you of an offthe-charts vacation. JULY | AUGUST 2019
Camano Island State Park www.parks.state.wa.us/484/ Camano-Island Kristoferson Farm www.kristofersonfarm.com/ about/our-events Matzke Fine Art Gallery and Sculpture Park www.matzkefineart.com Camano Island Honey www.camanoislandhoney.com Camaloch Golf Course www.camalochgolf.com Hike Cranberry Lake Trail www.hikeoftheweek.com/ new/cranberry-lake Iverson Spit Waterfront Preserve www.camanoislandinfo.com/ iverson-spit-preserve Camano Island Coffee Roasters www.camanoislandcoffee.com/ roaster-tour Great Northwest Glass Quest www.greatnwglassquest.com Glass Quest www.glassquest.com Whidbey Camano Islands www.whidbeycamanoislands.com
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 93
1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
Eugene Springfield
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Ontario
Bend Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
16 Bend Brewfest
48 Old Sol Enterprises
80
Wallowa Lake Tramway
22 Brewer’s Union
52 Downtown Riverfront Park
82
High Life Adventures
28 Jacobsen Salt Co.
54 Oregon Shakespeare Festival
84
Silvies Valley Ranch
40 Tonya Bender, barrel racer
56 Blue Mountain Wildlife
86
The Allison Inn & Spa
42 Summit Arts Center
58 A Leap of Taste
92
Camano Island, Washington
94 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
Pursuing excellence through fitness
61615 Athletic Club Drive Ads_1859 MAR APR_ 2017.indd 49
(541) 385-3062 2/10/17 3:00 PM
Until Next Time
Dirt in My Blood written by Jill Dyer
“THOUSANDS OF TIRED, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home, that wilderness is essential.” —John Muir I was born and raised in Portland—home of abundant rain, crunchy fall leaves and cherry blossoms. My favorite childhood romp was Mt. Tabor Park. I have memories of bike riding the steep hills, swinging on the playground and leaning on the fence of the volcanic crater. My favorite time of year was summer. My family would spend an annual week in Central Oregon. It was a novelty to see deer out the window, hike Black Butte and ride bikes through the meadow. The smell of Ponderosa pines and sage became the smell of home to me. My husband and I spent our first few married years in Portland and then high-tailed it to Central Oregon as quickly as we could. We have raised our four children here. They grew up hiking, swimming in lakes and on the local ski hill. They backpack, fish and rock climb. They have the childhood I wish I had. I have learned to backpack. The first time I hiked with a pack, I was 35. Because I was raised in the city, I acclimated more slowly to the wilderness. It took courage to get out with a pack and trust I would have what I needed. But once I began, I never looked back. I became an adventurer. Let me play in the Oregon Cascades and I will return awake and alive, full of blisters and mosquito bites. I might have lost a toenail or three. My nose will be sunburned. I will tell stories about the cougar retreating above me and how there were little red bugs in my water. I will laugh easier. I will tell tales of a heavy pack and light heart. I will be thinner, stronger, more at ease with myself. I will immediately begin to dream of the next trip. I will try to convince others to come sleep on the ground with me in the
96 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
JULY | AUGUST 2019
middle of Oregon’s playground. I will describe the mosquitoes, exhilarating steep climbs and wildlife. Our brains suffer from multitasking required by our society. We are bombarded with unending stimuli day after day. We are exposed at work, as we raise children, while we pay bills, go to school, at the gym, and at the grocery store. When we get outside, our brains clear, anxiety is reduced, and we feel more energized. Even a ten-minute walk can provide benefits. If we get away for three days or more, we are “reset” in the wilderness. We become more of who we are meant to be. The electric time-thieves are removed, and the hours stretch like a lazy river. Blood pressure lowers as we are exposed to vistas and wildflowers. The scent of the alpine triggers cells to come to attention. The physical exertion energizes and tires us in perfect balance. I have watched the sun set over South Sister. I have been refreshed by the chilly waters of Moraine Lake. I’ve eaten trailside huckleberries. I rock-picked my way up Middle Sister and slept through a windstorm at Camp Lake. I have felt the reset of Oregon wilderness. I have access to trails out my back door. I live within driving distance of the Pacific Crest Trail. Oregon has grown me up as a woman, a mother, a writer and an adventurer. I am no longer nervous on the trail, but at home. I trust myself and the wilderness that holds me while on the trail. I love the look of worn paths and always long for the view over the next rise. Cannon Beach, quirky Portland, Yamhill wine country, John Day, the Deschutes River, and the Cascade Mountains all make up this glorious state. Oregon is home to me. Get outside and experience the benefits. The dirt just gets in your blood.
YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE AWAITS
Oregon’s Magazine
2020 RANGE ROVER EVOQUE
TRIP PLANNER: NEWBERG + CHEHALEM PG. 86
Tintype Photography
The Bee’s Knees Gin Cocktail
High Desert Chic Living
July | August 2019 ROMANTIC GETAWAYS
GETAWAYS TO FUEL YOUR FIRE
WILD
Fewer lines, cleaner surfaces and a high level of precision all heighten the modernity and sophistication of the new Range Rover Evoque. With the perfect balance of effortless capability and on-road refinement, combined with a suite of technologies to produce an exhilarating ride, the Range Rover Evoque is a joy to drive.
ROMANTIC
Find your next adventure at Land Rover Portland. 1859magazine.com
Land Rover Portland A Don Rasmussen Company 720 NE Grand Avenue 503.230.7700 landroverportland.com
1859oregonmagazine.com $5.95 display until August 31, 2019
LIVE
THINK
EXPLORE
OREGON
July | August
volume 58
