TRIP PLANNER: CAVE JUNCTION PG. 84
Where Science + Coffee Meet
Seaweed in the Kitchen
DIY: Chicken Coop Design Tips
Your Guide to Oregon’s
FOOD TRUCK PODS AWARDS SPOTLIGHT REVITALIZED
HISTORIC BUILDINGS
SUMMER CAMPS
FOR ADULTS
BRINGING MINDFULNESS TO GOLF
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volume 79
Discover yourself here. Close to everything but away from it all, Discovery West is conveniently located on Bend’s west side, close to nature, trails, bike paths, parks, schools and shopping. Coming in 2024, at the heart of this vibrant community, the Discovery Corner plaza will soon offer a mix of small business storefronts, gathering spaces and a place for neighborhood events. A generous firepit will invite friends, family and neighbors to linger and enjoy special outdoor spaces that reflect the Central Oregon lifestyle. Learn more at discoverywestbend.com/discoverycorner or visit our Discovery Pod at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane.
INSPIRED LIVING Brilliantly illuminated by the changing light throughout the day, The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Portland stand resplendent in this beautiful city, inviting you to experience a new, modern way of living. Vibrant, serene, and sensuous, where personalized service anticipates your every need, and everyday experiences become extraordinary. For further information, contact Terry Sprague at terry@rcrportland.com or visit www.rcrportland.com.
The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Portland are not owned, developed, or sold by The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, LLC, or its affiliates (The Ritz-Carlton)®. BPM Real Estate Group uses The Ritz-Carlton marks under a license from The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, LLC.
SINCE 1973
Oregonians are generators of abundance. For 50 years, we’ve helped each other thrive. From safe shelter to art supplies, we’ve stepped up when someone needed support. Leaned in when they needed help. Dug deep when they needed food. Gave back, when given the chance. And we’re getting better at doing it all more equitably. The past few years have been some of our most challenging. And what did we do? We helped each other. We marched, fought fires, dropped off groceries — and gave. We gave more than ever before. Which tells us that in our next 50 years, Oregonians helping Oregonians, through thick and thin, will continue to lift us all. Cheers to you, Oregon. As your statewide community foundation, we celebrate our 50th anniversary in honor of you.
Eastern Oregon Volunteers helping out a local business with a fresh coat of paint.
OREGONIANS HELPING OREGONIANS SINCE 1973 LEARN
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History, Restored
Mildred Hall, Portland
Shane McKenzie/Portland Imagery
RESTORE OREGON’S DeMuro Awards celebrate the preservation and rehabilitation of historic places around the state. Read more about recent winners—such as Portland’s Mildred Hall and Steeplejack Brewing Co.—in Home + Design. (pg. 34)
Steeplejack Brewing Co.
Steeplejack Brewing Co., Portland
MARCH | APRIL 2023
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 5
FEATURES MARCH | APRIL 2023 • volume 79
70 The Earth Laughs in Flowers A new exhibit at the Ellen Browning building on SE Division takes people on an incredible digital experience of blooming flowers across twelve screens.
60
66
Keep On Truckin’
Smelling Like Roses?
The vastly improved creative food truck pod sector takes on new members and flavors around the state.
Portland struggles to clean up and revive after the pandemic. The current state of the City of Roses.
written by Jean Chen Smith
written by Lee Lewis Husk
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
The Lobby, Artwork by Andy Warhol
written by Kerry Newberry
Whether you spend the day tilling or the evening milling, SAIF has you covered, with expert service and innovative programs that keep workers safe and healthy. For more than 100 years, SAIF has been Oregon’s trusted workers’ compensation leader. From the fields to the factory floor, and across Oregon, we’re working for you.
WORKERS‘ COMP THAT REALLY WORKS.
saif.com
DEPARTMENTS MARCH | APRIL 2023 • volume 79
LIVE 18 NOTEBOOK
Luxe CBD; a stunning debut novel from Juhea Kim, music by off-grid Fellow Pynins.
22 FOOD + DRINK
SheBrew Festival; new canned fish; wine and food podcasts. Dally Hue/She Moves Mountains
26 FARM TO TABLE
Oregon Seaweed is the new health food. Recipes with dulse!
34 HOME + DESIGN
A NE Portland passion restoration in a neighborhood church, plus 2022’s other Restore Oregon DeMuro Award winners.
78
46 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Mika Aono is a masterful printmaker and just back from residency.
THINK 52 STARTUP
New mountain guides in Little Switzerland.
54 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
Dr. Coffee explores the chemistry of espresso extraction.
56 MY WORKSPACE
Drag queen Poison Waters at play.
58 GAME CHANGER
Broken Banjo Photography
Travel Southern Oregon
Friends of the Owyhee seeks federal protection.
84
EXPLORE 76 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Apricot Apiaries in Eastern Oregon.
78 ADVENTURE
26
Summer camps for adults.
82 LODGING
Skamania’s treehouses.
14 Editor’s Letter 15 1859 Online 94 Map of Oregon 96 Until Next Time
COVER
photo by Aubrie LeGault The Freckled Peach food cart, Oregon City (see “Keep On Truckin’,” pg. 60)
8
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84 TRIP PLANNER Cave Junction.
90 NW DESTINATION Boise, Idaho.
They say it takes a village to raise a child...
Together, with you, we’re the village it takes.
Relief Nurseries partner with parents to give them the support, tools, and information they need to be the best parents they can be. Together, we can give Oregon's children the best start possible. L E A R N M O R E AT
OregonReliefNurseries.org
CONTRIBUTORS
JEN SOTOLONGO Writer Adventure
MELISSA DALTON Writer Home + Design
JEAN CHEN SMITH Writer Keep On Truckin’
JENNA LECHNER Illustrator Home + Design DIY
“I had so much fun searching for various summer camps for adults. I started by looking up activities that I enjoy, like trail running and rock climbing. Then I started talking to friends about the article, and they rattled off a variety of different camps that I would never have discovered otherwise. It was fun to learn there are so many options for adults to get out and play!” (pg. 78)
“As a design writer, I’ve covered a wide range of stories for 1859, from major feats in green building, to historic home remodels, and more humble DIY projects. This issue’s story on Mildred Hall in Portland was unique and inspiring for how it accomplished so much—being a DIY remodel to recycle an old church into a community arts place—and then winning a preservation award from Restore Oregon for their efforts.” (pg. 34)
“Connecting with the owners and staff of the food carts and pods in writing this article invoked feelings of intrigue and admiration. So much thought and hard work goes into operating a food cart pod. As customers we rarely think about it. Pods not only provide quick and tasty food; they are also gathering spaces that foster a sense of community. The ones featured in the article are only a small glimpse into all the wonderful pods out there. Head out this spring and discover the ones that resonate with your taste buds.” (pg. 60)
“Over the last year, I’ve spent a lot of time in my yard; I’ve been rethinking the way this small urban plot of land can be more conducive to wildlife. I’ve even begun the certification process for the Backyard Habitat Program! Oregon State University Extension Service has been essential to me in my recent horticulture adventures—and I love projects that bridge craft and agriculture—so I was very excited to create this issue’s illustrations for a successful chicken coop!” (pg. 42)
Jen Sotolongo is the founder of the adventure dog blog Long Haul Trekkers, a freelance writer and a book author. She is a PNW native and lives in Portland with her dog, Sitka.
Melissa Dalton is a freelance design and architecture writer who can always be counted on to travel near or far for the chance to appreciate interesting designs that provide insight into our lives.
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Jean Chen Smith is a freelance writer and Pilates studio owner who lives in Corvallis with her husband and two mini shih tzus, Tonka and Paisley. You can follow their PNW adventures on Instagram @tinytonkabear_ princesspaisley.
Jenna Lechner is a freelance illustrator based out of Portland. Her nature-based ink and watercolor illustrations have appeared on stationery, wallpaper, packaging and more. You can see more of her work on Instagram @jennamlechner.
seaside is for Remembering why you live in the Northwest
We’re going to go out on a limb and guess that what you love most about the Pacific Northwest is the incredible access to the outdoors. So come visit Seaside and enjoy some. Sure we have the Prom, great food and killer arcades. But we also have surfing, kayaking, biking and hiking that looks like this. Yes, you can still book a hotel room this weekend.
seasideOR.com @visitseasideOR
EDITOR
Kevin Max
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
Aaron Opsahl
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
Joni Kabana
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
HOMEGROWN CHEF
Thor Erickson
BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Jeremy Storton
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Cathy Carroll, Jean Chen Smith, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Julie Lee, Lee Lewis Husk, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, James Sinks, Jen Sotolongo, Grant Stringer
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Joni Kabana, Tambi Lane, Aubrie LeGault, Tobias Nolan/ T. Nolan Imagery, Daniel O’Neil, Mike Wilson
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Jenna Lechner
Headquarters
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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.
12 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
Citra Hops with Lemon
Strata Hops with Açaí
Elevate your Every day. Pop into balanced hops, ripe fruit, and punchy fizz. Reach for hop-infused sparking water crafted with 27 years of Pacific Northwest brewing expertise. A new zero alcohol, zero calorie beverage you can get hopped about.
Refreshment. It’s a pelican thing.
pelicanbrewing.com/sparklehops
FROM THE
EDITOR
WHILE SPRING brings tulips to the Willamette Valley and pink blooms of manzanita in the high desert, will Portland turn up roses this year? A litany of maladies strung together year after year for the past five years has left the City of Roses in a state of decomposition. Protests rattled downtown businesses and residents; shops were boarded up. Covid took a hard toll on a city whose streets were full of hotels at high occupancy levels, where younger people were flocking to be among the cutting edge of a new urban culture. Homelessness, at the same time, seemed out of control and out of resolution’s reach. This isn’t the Portland we’ve known. Nor is it the Portland we want. In “Smelling Like Roses?” on page 66, we look behind the trends and data that characterize Portland as a city struggling to get back to its feet. While many of the same problems persist, we believe that Wall-e will eventually find his sign of life, of rebirth. One of Portland’s strongest suits has been its food trucks and food truck pods. On page 60, we take a fresh look at this institution that served many of us through the pandemic, with their creativity and ability to quickly pivot. Now they are hitting full stride, and you can practically hop across the state from one food pod to the next without your feet touching the ground! Treehouses seem to be an inadvertent theme of this issue as we arrive at their bases by two
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different approaches. In our Trip Planner (pg. 84), we head to Cave Junction, where Oregon Caves National Monument is the center of attention, and for good reason. Also peculiar to Cave Junction is the Out ‘N’ About Treehouse Treesort, a small private resort with cool treehouses for overnight lodging. Coincidentally, in Lodging on page 82, we branched out across the Columbia to Stevenson, Washington, where the famed Skamania Lodge sits. Lesser known are its relatively new luxury treehouse units that can be booked for a wondrous night in the Douglas fir canopy. We (partially) return to terra firma in our “Summer Camps for Adults” Adventure article on page 78. The many options for adult summer fun include climbing and yoga, learning to paddle the Rogue, resetting your life on the Oregon Coast and mountain biking the McKenzie. Make time for yourself while your kids are doing their thing! It’s not too early to talk about making the rounds yet, is it? In our special section on golf, we look into not the difficulty of courses, or the type of club, but the shift in mindset that is sweeping the sport. Eastern thought and practice has become a strategic advantage behind golf ’s top players—from breathing to meditation and visualization. In this section, we look into the benefits of mindfulness and how to get started to get your own edge. Breathe!
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www.1859oregonmagazine.com/postcard photo by Tyler Peterschmidt A dewy morning in Jefferson Park.
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MARCH | APRIL 2023
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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NOTEBOOK 18 FOOD + DRINK 22 FARM TO TABLE 26 HOME + DESIGN 34 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 46
Printmaker Mika Aono explores her artistic freedom to great effect and teaches others.
Mika Aono
pg. 46
notebook
Tidbits + To-dos written by Cathy Carroll Luxury CBD Empower BodyCare’s Luxe line includes soothing, fast-absorbing, high-potency body oils and creams that blend CBD derived from organically grown hemp and essential oils. Their soaking salts are of the same high quality CBD, along with Epsom, Dead Sea and pink Himalayan salts and essential oils, designed to relax, hydrate and restore balance. The LGBTQ+, women-owned and operated business in Portland was founded by Trista Okel to help her mother manage pain and is distributed nationally. www.empowerbodycare.com Pretty in Pink
Campfire Hotel
The color reflects the notes of peach, honeysuckle and white strawberry that will amuse your palate when you take Underwood rosé on your next spring fling. Predominantly pinot gris, of grapes from the Willamette and Umpqua valleys, its label is by artist and LGBTQ+ community member Lisa Congdon of Portland. Proceeds go to The Venture Out Project, which helps LGBTQ+ youth and adults gain community, leadership skills and confidence through outdoor adventure. www.unionwinecompany.com
Campfire Hotel in Bend is more than a place to stay. The outdoor saltwater pool gets up to 100 degrees in the winter (and is open to non-guests for a $20 fee). The Campfire Unplugged music series hosts artists who perform around the cozy, outdoor firepit every Thursday. There’s Canteen Karaoke Sunday nights, Drag Brunches and on the last Saturday of each month, Drag Bingo with local drag superstar D’Auntie Carol is a fundraiser for local nonprofits. www.campfirehotel.com
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CA mark LE yo ND ur AR
Camp Culture with an Urban Twist
Artist Lisa Congdon
notebook
CA mark LE yo ND ur AR Futuristic Flora
Portland Art Museum
Explore a vibrant, imagined garden through immersive video in the U.S. premier of “This is the Future” by Hito Steyerl. Steyerl is one of the foremost artists offering critical reflections on the complexities of the digital world, global capitalism, and artificial intelligence. The exhibit includes “Power Plants,” video sculptures with multiple LED screens presenting colorful, morphing plants generated by an AI neural network that predicts the plants’ evolution. At Portland Art Museum through May 27. www.portlandartmuseum.org
Pendleton Pastels
Canned Peaches, Elevated
Spring pastels mark a fresh iteration for Pendleton classics, from the Opal Springs blanket to the women’s Willa wool jacket, and are carried throughout men’s apparel as well as products for the home, from bedding to towels. Some of the finest Native American artists bring their traditions and point of view to designs woven on the looms of the Pendleton mill, building on the blanket-making tradition which began there in 1909.
Peach Mojito is the latest addition to the Craftwell Cocktails lineup, launched last year by 2 Towns Ciderhouse in Corvallis. They blend ripe peaches, fresh mint and key lime with their Northwest apple wine for this ready-to-drink canned cocktail. It joins the other flavors: Pineapple Margarita, Grapefruit Paloma, Blueberry Cosmo and Strawberry Margarita.
www.pendleton-usa.com
www.craftwellcocktails.com
MARCH | APRIL 2023
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Fellow Pynins’ latest album is 2022’s Lady Mondegreen.
Justin Garden
Listen on Spotify
Musician
Folk With an Old Soul Off-the-grid duo Fellow Pynins give traditional songs a modern feel written by Ben Salmon OREGON IS HOME to the world-class music city of Portland, upstart college-student sounds in Eugene, a fertile singer-songwriter scene in Wallowa County, a surge of string bands in Ashland and an eclectic patchwork of jams in Bend. And then there’s Fellow Pynins, a throwback folk duo based on the edge of civilization in the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument in Southern Oregon. “We live about 30 minutes out of town, surrounded by wilderness,” said Dani Aubert, one half of the project alongside her husband Ian George. “We’re off-grid, we have a two-mile dirt driveway and we live on a piece of land where there are, like, five other families with 11 kids. It’s kind of like commune vibes, a little bit.” Aubert and George built their tiny house here in 2020 to give themselves a peaceful place to be when they’re not ferrying their children to school or on tour with Fellow Pynins. “We spent some time in Minneapolis, but the city is currently not for me,” Aubert said. “I just like the slow life. I’m 20
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
always out and about with folks, but it’s nice to come back to a place that’s quiet.” Aubert spent years working as a small-scale organic farmer before her songwriting hobby unexpectedly demanded a larger slice of her life. In 2016, Fellow Pynins released their debut album, Hunter & the Hunted, a collection of gentle original folk songs built from the plinks and strums of acoustic instruments and the natural beauty of the couple’s vocal harmonies. Eventually, interest in their music provided Aubert and George an opportunity to tour the United Kingdom and Ireland in recent years, stopping in small rural towns, playing with local musicians and learning their traditional songs along the way. Some of those traditional songs form the backbone of Fellow Pynins’ stunning 2022 album, Lady Mondegreen, which features eight tracks that feel fresh and vibrant despite their ancient roots. That balance of traditional sounds and modern approach isn’t carefully cultivated or contrived. In fact, it seems to come quite naturally to Fellow Pynins. “We don’t try to recreate these old songs perfectly, because that’s not going to happen,” Aubert said. “Instead, I’ll find a recording and listen to it, and then I’ll turn it off and just play it from memory, and usually the memory gets convoluted because I didn’t remember it right,” she continued. “But that’s how the oral tradition works. I love folk music, and I’m just going to play it the way that I can.”
notebook
Bibliophile
A Beast of a Debut Epic novel of love, war and idealism hailed as a stunning achievement interview by Cathy Carroll
JUHEA KIM’S debut novel, Beasts of a Little Land, is garnering acclaim nationally and beyond. The epic story of love, war and redemption begins in 1917 in the snowy mountains of occupied Korea, as an impoverished local hunter on the brink of starvation saves a young Japanese officer from an attacking tiger. In an instant, their fates are connected—spurring a saga spanning half a century. From the perfumed chambers of a courtesan school in Pyongyang to the cafés of a modernizing Seoul and battlegrounds in the forests of Manchuria, the Portland author unveils a world where friends become enemies, enemies become saviors, heroes are persecuted and beasts take many shapes.
You’ve just returned from a book tour in Korea where Beasts has become an instant bestseller. Tell us about that. This was the first time I was returning to Korea in twenty years, and I fell completely in love with Seoul, which so intoxicatingly blends tradition and modernity. The last time I had that reaction to a city was Paris in 2014. And I had no expectations that Koreans in Korea would embrace my book so passionately. (In fact, most Korean-American books are not translated into Korean.) Many people told me that this is the true history and spirit of our people and likened the book to canonical masterpieces by Park Kyung-ri and Jo Jung-rae. I was deeply influenced by the epic saga tradition of these twentieth-century masters, so being compared to them was an extraordinary honor. You used to read Korean history going back to ancient times, and for this novel read more of the early twentieth-century Korean literature. Describe the origins of the idea for this novel. I was 28, freelancing and barely making my ends meet in New York City. I had just convinced Jody Kahn to be my literary agent, and she told me to go write a novel. I was literally hungry and daunted by having to write a whole book before I could sell it. To calm myself, I went running in
the snow in Fort Tryon Park. I felt better seeing the wintery landscape—and then I had this vision of a hunter lost in the woods. I also saw a tiger leap into this scene. I also saw visions of many later parts of the book. I ran back home and sat down and wrote what became the prologue of Beasts in one sitting. It seems like the inspiration struck me by chance, but I also think that all the stories I heard growing up—Korean folktales, and the family history of my maternal grandfather who worked for the independence movement—came out at that moment. You were born in Incheon, Korea, and moved to Portland at age nine. Tell us about what followed and your decision to return to Portland in 2019, as well as what life is like for you there. After undergrad at Princeton University, I moved to New York and lived there for almost ten years. I also spent three months in France right before returning to Portland in spring 2019. These past four years back have been some of the most intense and fruitful times of my life. It’s where I made the biggest strides as an artist. Portland and Oregon in general have inspired, protected and supported me in wholly different ways than the East Coast, where I came of age. I also got to spend a lot of time with my parents for the first time since childhood.
AT LEFT Portland novelist Juhea Kim is also the founder of Peaceful Dumpling, an online magazine of sustainable lifestyle and ecology. Some proceeds of her debut novel will support Siberian tiger conservation. (photo: Nola Logan)
MARCH | APRIL 2023
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food + drink
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Michael Riggs, Bartender at Nostrana / PORTLAND
Hey Bay is a vibrant cocktail that blends tropical flavors from an Oregon cidery with herbal notes from bay leaves and gin. The result is a fresh, complex drink that’s perfect in spring.
• 1½ ounces gin • 1 ounce Swift Pineapple Hop Cider • ½ ounce lime juice • ½ ounce Bay Simple Syrup (see recipe below) • 3 dashes firewater bitters • Pinch of salt FOR BAY SIMPLE SYRUP • 2 cups sugar • 1 cup water • 4 bay leaves FOR BAY SIMPLE SYRUP Place all ingredients into a pot, bring to a low heat and cook until the sugar has dissolved. While the mixture is heating, use a spoon to make sure that the corners of the pot are free of granulated sugar particles. Cool before using. Store in fridge for up to one month. FOR COCKTAIL In a shaker tin, add all ingredients, add ice, shake and double fine strain into a coupe. Garnish with a fresh bay leaf. Tip: Use remaining Bay Simple Syrup to add an herbal note to lemonade or mix with sparkling water.
22
Jenn McPoland
Hey Bay
Honor the women in your life at the SheBrew Festival, March 5 in Portland.
Beerlandia
This Beer Tastes Like Gratitude written by Jeremy Storton EXACTLY THREE YEARS AGO, my wife called me on my way home from work and asked me to pick up toilet paper. The shelves were empty. So were the coolers where thirty packs of beer normally sit. The world started shutting down, and it seemed all our needs were satisfied by those two products. Since then, we’ve learned the importance of family and health. We’ve learned that work doesn’t have to be the rigid monster we thought it was. Experiencing good beer and food with each other is also important. I think we learned how profound it is as we watched some breweries and pubs board the struggle bus while others closed their doors forever. That was a rough time, but we’ve also learned a new and better perspective. In this new era, we may not be out of the darkness completely, but we’re more aware of the value of spending time together at a pub. March 8 is International Women’s Day. The month reminds us to be grateful for the women in our lives by kicking off with the SheBrew Festival in Portland. April 7th is National Beer Day to remind us to savor the experience of a great Oregon brew. As the ground thaws, wildflowers bloom and hop trellises get restrung, I plan to spend the time remembering the gratitude and the resolutions I made in the last few years. I plan to take my loved ones to an outside patio of a local brewery, eat and drink well, and share gratitude for the women throughout the industry who put the beer in my hand. As we all know by now, life is too short for anything less. See you out there.
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.maloys.com
Magic Hex For fine antique and custom jewelry, or for repair work, come visit us, or shop online at Maloys.com. We also buy.
CRAVINGS:
CULINARY FIELD TRIPS GO WILD: AMERICAN ADVENTURES Two friends launched this niche tour group that creates upscale wilderness backpacking experiences in one of the state’s most wild and beautiful places. They are also the mastermind behind a self-guided walking and tasting tour of Baker City, home to the popular Barley Brown’s Brew Pub. Simply sign up and the tour is delivered straight to your mobile device (phone, tablet or computer) upon booking. Bonus: It includes food and drink perks from local bakeries, brew pubs and restaurants. Summer Luu
BAKER CITY www.gowildusa.com
Sara Hauman and her Tiny Fish Co. bring back and upgrade the classics of fish in tins.
Gastronomy
Tiny Fish Co. written by Kerry Newberry WHEN CHEF Sara Hauman dreamed of her next venture after two decades of working in a range of fine-dining restaurants—from Portland’s wine-focused Arden to Mister Jiu’s in San Francisco—she was drawn to Oregon’s coastal bounty and the art of preservation. “My grandmother jarred and canned everything under the sun,” she said. “I thought it was the coolest thing ever.” Hauman, who was a fan favorite on Top Chef Portland (season 18) was also excited by preservation as a way to capture a specific time and place through food. Enter Tiny Fish Co., a celebration of tinned fish that embraces the tradition of conservas in Spain and Portugal with a focus on seafood that’s abundant in the Pacific Northwest. The collection includes classics like smoked mussels en escabeche along with creative combos like smoked geoduck with black pepper and rockfish in sweet soy sauce. “I’ve put an extreme amount of flavor in a tiny little can,” said Hauman. “You can absolutely take that mussel and put it onto a piece of baguette or a cracker and enjoy the heck out of it.” Or you can whip up one of the recipes on her website and pair rockfish with pork noodles or top a sheet pan pizza with smoked geoduck and potatoes. “The recipes are a little wild, but I think that makes cooking fun,” said Hauman. “And for me, food has always been about having fun.” SELECT PORTLAND MARKETS + SHIPPING NATIONWIDE www.thetinyfishco.com
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
THE DIRTY RADISH When you consider the Willamette Valley is home to an astounding 700 wineries, it makes sense to tap local experts for customized wine and travel itineraries. Enter Chevonne Ball, a Certified Sommelier and French Wine Scholar who regularly leads small group excursions and education seminars that highlight some of the state’s top winemakers and culinary stars. Got your heart set on Europe? She also takes groups to the Beaujolais and Lyonnais regions of France. WILLAMETTE VALLEY www.thedirtyradish.com
FORKTOWN FOOD TOURS One of Portland’s longest running food tours, these three-hour jaunts introduce small groups to some of the city’s best spots for craft beer, farmstead cheeses, charcuterie and food cart finds. Food enthusiasts can pick from different neighborhood tours ranging from the artsy and historic Mississippi District to the culinary hotspot of Division Street. Recent expansions include international culinary adventures in Italy and Georgia. PORTLAND www.forktown.com
food + drink
BEST PLACES FOR
WINE + FOOD PODCASTS With their spirited banter and thoughtful guests, co-hosts Katherine Cole and Martin Reyes bring meaningful conversations to the wine world. Their most recent season covered issues like income inequality and unionization along with contemporary trends from NFTs in the wine industry to the popularity of #WineTok. Wine experts on the show included Tahiirah Habibi, the founder of the Hue Society, and digital futurist Dan Petroski. It’s no surprise the show is a winner of both the James Beard and IACP awards for Best Culinary Podcast. Discover more at www. thefourtop.org.
FOOD PEOPLE ARE THE BEST PEOPLE Judiaann Woo’s Instagram feed of food and travel finds pops with joy. Her podcast is equally exuberant. The name is a nod to Julia Child’s wise quote: “People who love to eat are always the best people.” In each episode, Woo chats with a different tastemaker—from chefs and bakers to fish mongers, farmers and foragers—exploring what led them to become the innovative food people they are today and what inspires them for tomorrow. Find the podcast link on Instagram @judiaann.
OREGON WINE INDUSTRY ARCHIVE PODCAST You like Oregon Wine but want more backstory? The Oregon Wine History Archive (OWHA) at Linfield University has it all. With the mission to preserve, collect and share the narrative of Oregon wine, the archive’s extensive collection of oral history interviews features winery owners, winemakers, grape-growers and sommeliers (more than 537 chats and counting). Visit www. oregonwinehistoryarchive.com to explore the list.
Photos: Local Ocean
THE FOUR TOP
Dining
Local Ocean
ABOVE, AT LEFT On the working Newport docks, Local Ocean brings to table Oregon seafood right from the catch. ABOVE Two favorites at Local Ocean are the niçoise salad (top) and fishwives stew.
written by Kerry Newberry HUMMING WITH LIFE just off the Newport docks, every dish that spins out of the kitchen at Local Ocean speaks to the bounty of Oregon’s coastal waters. Whether that’s delicate sea-kissed pink shrimp crostini or the beloved fishwives stew brimming with succulent Dungeness crab, wild prawns, scallops, clams, mussels and rockfish. But what sets this waterfront restaurant apart is an unwavering pledge to the fishing community and local sustainability. Take a close look at the seafood counter and you’ll notice the name of the vessel and fisher next to the daily catch. On a recent visit, the umami-packed teriyaki tuna kabobs hailed from albacore tuna caught by F/V Jo El and captain Brett Montague—who fishes with his deckhand, Ethan Holt, and loyal boat dog, Briar. Walk the misty docks before dining and you can catch sight of weathered vessels loaded with colorful crab pots and bright buoys. Local Ocean’s founding mission was to showcase the best of Oregon’s fisheries and buy directly from the fleet—and more than 100 boats currently work with the restaurant. Almost two decades in, this forward-thinking seafood hub is still making waves. Co-founder Laura Anderson recently sold Local Ocean into a special type of ownership called a Perpetual Purpose Trust. This steward ownership model ultimately protects the mission and ensures that the restaurant operates in a way that prioritizes employees and the community. It’s one example of how the industry is advancing amidst swiftly shifting tides. 213 SE BAY BLVD. NEWPORT www.localocean.net
MARCH | APRIL 2023
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farm to table
Farm to Table
Seaweed Explosion From pond scum to plates of the privileged, seaweed has risen from the depths of obscurity and is having a permanent moment written by Julie Lee
ALANNA KIEFFER of Oregon Seaweed has one answer for our climate crisis: feed seaweed to cows. “If I could feed seaweed to all cows, I would do it! The positive effect of that would just blow my mind,” she said. Seaweed is a sustainable, savory and naturally salty rising star, as well as a perfect snack, recipe ingredient and dietary supplement. Low in calories, vegan, and a nutritious way to add protein, necessary vitamins, and minerals to any diet, seaweed is, suddenly, everywhere. 26
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Broken Banjo Photography
Sales manager Alanna Kieffer, right, and operations manager William Black at Oregon Seaweed.
Restaurants have taken notice, inventing dishes with seaweed top of mind, and Hollywood, a trend compass, featured a seaweed-farmerturned-future-son-in-law in Ticket to Paradise and spotlit seaweed in a dish called “The Island,” composed of a rock covered with edible seaweed and algae then topped with a single scallop and served to elitist diners before all hell broke loose, in last year’s dark comedy, The Menu. Seaweed plays a critical role in marine life, providing sustenance to oceanic creatures and shelter to small fish. There are many types of edible seaweed, including nori (often used to roll sushi), sea lettuce (eaten raw in salads), kelp (a terrific noodle alternative), chlorella (sold as a powdered supplement), and dulse, a red algae with a softer, chewier texture, flavorful in dishes and often eaten as a dried snack. The Pacific Northwest and its coastal properties are prime for farming seaweed, and commercial seaweed farms could soon double in number up and
farm to table
down the coast. Oregon Seaweed chose to grow dulse, the reddish-brown seaweed, in tanks on land, allowing them to bypass open water permitting hurdles other budding seaweed companies find as obstacles to launching. The industry is heavily regulated, borne out of some confusion; seaweed is neither considered seafood nor agriculture. “You can’t lease parts of the water,” said Kieffer. “We see a lot of benefits of land farming versus in the water. We’re the largest land-based farm in the country.” Oregon Seaweed pumps saltwater from nearby ocean waters to circulate through its large tanks at ports in both Bandon and Garibaldi and was founded as an extension of an Oregon State University research program that discovered seaweed varieties suitable for farming in the northwest. OSU announced a patented seaweed with a taste like bacon in 2015, and that is when Kieffer found her calling. “It’s very full circle for me,” said Kieffer, who studied marine biology and whose both parents and a brother are chefs. “When Vitaly Paley mentioned a seaweed that tastes like bacon, my family went crazy, and my dad asked me to get my hands on some.”
Kieffer attributes her journey to Oregon Seaweed, with gratitude, to the pandemic. She was working on Catalina Island with a dream of one day growing kelp, when the camp she was working for suddenly shut down, and she found herself back at her parents’ home in Seaside looking for work. She heard about a seaweed farm being built in Garibaldi, chatted with the owners, and went to work, helping to finish building the farm. When they had their first bunch of seaweed ready to sell but no one to sell it to, Kieffer jumped in as a salesperson, which she admitted is not her background, and went door to restaurant door, promoting and selling dulse. “It was cool to be able to connect with chefs in the community,” she said. “Some of our first customers are still with us, like Būsu, who was enthusiastic about our product from the start.” Fort George in Astoria was another early adopter in ordering dulse from Oregon Seaweed, as was The Salmonberry in Wheeler, who uses dulse both to make pasta and in a mignonette sauce, perfectly paired with oysters. The Schooner Restaurant in Netarts was a pioneer in the farm-to-table restaurant concept on the Oregon Coast, with an
“It was cool to be able to connect with chefs in the community. Some of our first customers are still with us, like Būsu, who was enthusiastic about our product from the start.” — Alanna Kieffer, of Oregon Seaweed
Elevation 0m
Oregon Seaweed farms its dulse on land in tanks.
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Elevation 0m
Sophia Knox Photography
Broken Banjo Photography
farm to table
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Dulse is scooped out of a tank at Oregon Seaweed. The Palmaria pizza at Fort George features dulse alongside bacon and mushrooms. Oregon Seaweed sells fresh seaweed as well as sun-dried dulse.
eye toward supporting the local farming communities. Their partnership with Kieffer and Oregon Seaweed started when she was a guest speaker at one of their private dinners focused on the abundant bounties available on the coast. “I feel like (Oregon Seaweed) has taken the ‘huh?’ factor out of the algae we have all seen or stepped over on the beach and educated all of us on the incredible benefits of digesting it,” said Lexie Fields, general manager of The Schooner. Dulse grown at Oregon Seaweed is 30 percent protein. “Doctors are now telling people to eat more seaweed,” said Kieffer, “but no one knows where to get it.” Oregon Seaweed is changing that, creating a market for fresh seaweed, stocking it in retail stores, with the added benefit of a longer shelf life—seven to ten days—in a refrigerator. Oregon Seaweed also has a shelf stable product that needs no refrigeration.
One of the challenges Kieffer sees is a general disconnect with consumers on how to use the product once it’s purchased. “When I’m at a farmers’ market, I can teach people how to use seaweed, but most didn’t grow up eating it, so ultimately people don’t know how to use it.” Kieffer is trying to alter that by teaching retail staff how to use the product, so they can then educate customers. As for the intersection between cows and seaweed? Using seaweed in cattle feed, just 3 percent, reduces methane by 80 percent. “Our oceans are a huge carbon sink,” said Kieffer. “We have way more ocean than we do land. Where they grow kelp in bays, they have seen positive effects in terms of carbon.” Scientists believe seaweed can essentially reverse the climate crisis by removing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, just one more reason why seaweed is being crowned the wave of our future. MARCH | APRIL 2023
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Red Miso Dulse Soup The Schooner Restaurant & Lounge / NETARTS Chef Peter Gibson SERVES 4
Oysters on the Half Shell from The Salmonberry.
Oregon Recipes
Dulse Your Sense of Taste Oysters on the Half Shell The Salmonberry / WHEELER Charles Lutka
• 12 each sweetheart oysters from Netarts Bay • 1 cup fresh squeezed and strained lemon juice • 1 cup white balsamic
Sweet Pickled Oregon Dulse Seaweed Būsu / ASTORIA Kenzo Booth
• 1 cup sugar • ¼ cup sea salt or Kosher salt • 3/8 tablespoon pickling spice • 3 cups apple cider vinegar • 1 cup water • 200 grams fresh dulse Rinse fresh dulse and place in strainer, then in nonreactive container for pickling and reserve for later use. Make pickling brine by adding all other ingredients except seaweed to small sauce pot and bring to a boil. Continue to let brine boil until sugar and salt have fully dissolved. Strain pickling spice from finished pickle brine and cool to 41 degrees. Pour finished pickle brine over
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce • ¼ cup mirin • ½ cup finely chopped dulse • 1/3 cup finely diced shallot • 1 tablespoon sea salt • 1 tablespoon Aleppo pepper Shuck oysters. Mix all ingredients, spoon onto each oyster shell and serve.
dulse making sure all of the seaweed is submerged in pickle brine. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Pickled seaweed can be eaten by itself or makes a great addition to miso soup, salads, sandwiches, poke and sushi rolls.
• ½ cup dulse • 1/3 cup red miso • 4 cups water • ¼ cup green onion • ¼ cup cooked mushroom, any variety • 1 tablespoon soy sauce • Pinch of white pepper • Chili oil for garnish Heat water over medium-high heat. Add miso paste, dulse, green onion, mushroom, soy sauce and white pepper. Divide into 4 bowls, garnish with chili oil and enjoy!
Dulse Burger by Chef Pete The Schooner Restaurant & Lounge/ NETARTS Chef Peter Gibson SERVES 4 FOR THE PATTY* • ½ pound dulse • 4 cups cooked quinoa • 1 cup shredded carrot • 1 cup shredded beet • 11/2 sleeves of saltines • 1 tablespoon fish sauce • 2 tablespoons soy sauce • 1 tablespoon garlic, minced • ½ tablespoon white pepper • 1 tablespoon mustard powder • 1 cup + 1 tablespoon mayonnaise FOR THE AIOLI • 1 cup mayonnaise • 2 tablespoons red miso • 1 tablespoon garlic
Būsu’s Sweet Pickled Oregon Dulse Seaweed.
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Mix all patty ingredients together and let sit for at least 2 hours, ideally overnight. Form into approximately 6 ounce patties. Cook on medium heat until cooked all the way through and browned. *Note: This recipe can be made vegan by omitting fish sauce and using a vegan mayonnaise.
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HANDCRAFTED IN THE USA
farm to table
Homegrown Chef
Heroes in the Seaweed written by Thor Erickson | photography by Tambi Lane RAP! RAP! RAP! Came the loud banging on the back door of the small Oregon Coast restaurant where I was working. It was 1 p.m. on a Wednesday, and I was the first to unlock the building, cold after two days of being closed. It was January of 1992, and it was raining—again. Opening the creaky back door revealed a man in a thick wool sweater and black French beret, both dripping wet and emitting a musty wet wool smell. He was carrying two worn knapsacks. “Hey there, I’m Lee, The Wild Gourmet, and I have some things to share with you,” he said. As he walked in the door, he removed the beret and shook his head violently, drying off like a wet dog and thus revealing a long ponytail. “I live in a cave and found all this stuff. I am a chef and know how to use all these
ingredients,” he continued, talking more about himself as he showed me the foraged items from his knapsacks. “What is that?” I asked, as he revealed a beautiful, greenish-purple leafy plant. “That’s dulse—a seaweed,” he replied, tearing a leaf off and handing it to me. The briny flavor and light texture were amazing. I couldn’t wait to create something new for the guests that would brave the sideways rain to come to dinner that night. Lee Gray, the Wild Gourmet, opened the back door of many restaurants for Oregon foragers, connecting us with the same ingredients that Indigenous people used to survive. Today, we can find foraged items such as fresh seaweed, mushrooms, nettles and fiddleheads in specialty markets, or better yet, go foraging for them.
Salmon With Dulse, Shiitake Mushrooms and Black Garlic
Move the onions around in the pan every few minutes or so. This takes about 40 minutes. The result is beautiful, evenly browned onions. While onions are caramelizing, place the dulse into the preheated oven to roast. This should take about ten minutes. The dulse will collapse a bit under the heat. The dulse should be roasted and not crispy. Remove from oven and let cool. Add the shiitake mushrooms to the onions and let simmer over the same low/medium heat until mushrooms are tender (about 5 minutes). Add the black garlic paste and gently stir together. Taste and adjust with salt and pepper. Remove from heat, gently fold in roasted dulse and set aside. Place salmon portions on a half sheet pan lined with foil that has been lightly oiled. Season salmon with salt and black pepper. Bake the salmon in the oven until it reaches an internal temperature of 135 degrees (about 10 minutes). After removing from oven, let rest for 4 to 5 minutes. During this resting time, divide dulse mixture into four parts and place on top of each piece of salmon. Serve and enjoy!
SERVES 4 • 8 ounces fresh dulse • ½ cup of canola or other light oil • 1 yellow onion, halved and julienned into 1/8-inch slices • ¼ cup olive oil • 8 fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and julienned into ¼ slices • 4 cloves black garlic, smashed into a paste • Kosher salt and black pepper to taste • 16 ounces wild Oregon salmon cut into 4 5-ounce portions Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Rinse and pat dry the fresh dulse. In a large bowl, gently toss the dry dulse leaves with the light oil. Place onto a cookie sheet and set aside. Place onions and olive oil in a room temperature sauté pan. Place pan on the stove over low heat and gently caramelize the onions.
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farm to table
Salmon with dulse and shiitake mushrooms was born from a rap on the door from the The Wild Gourmet.
MARCH | APRIL 2023
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Shane McKenzie/Portland Imagery
Matt and Yuka Hollingsworth couldn’t pass up buying “The Small Church” in Northeast Portland to convert it into creative spaces.
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home + design
2022 DEMURO AWARD WINNERS
History in the Making A couple buys a 107-year-old church and fixes it up themselves to become a community hub written by Melissa Dalton MATT AND YUKA Hollingsworth weren’t exactly looking for a church when they bought one. In early 2021, they were in Portland, where he had recently left Nike after five years in retail design there, and she was a freelance fine artist, including illustration, painting, and drawing, who had previously run an arts and crafts school in San Francisco. They wanted to start their own business, most likely a creative studio offering workshops. “Essentially my goal was not to have a boss anymore,” said Matt Hollingsworth. “We just wanted to have our own thing.” They began looking for commercial space, when their friend and realtor brought them to a 1916 church on the corner of Northeast 23rd Avenue and Sumner Street in Portland. Known as “The Little Church,” the building was a longtime neighborhood fixture, originating as a Norwegian Danish Congregational Church, and bought by a succession of faiths before being outgrown by each in turn. By the time the Hollingsworths took a tour, the pull of the property was such that their business took shape to fit inside. “It’s quite prominent in the neighborhood and had a lot of charm,” Hollingsworth said. “I could sense the potential.” They added events to their business plan, since the church had a large sanctuary with high ceilings on the main floor that could be used for off-site retreats and weddings, while the full apartment in the basement and backyard garden were
“It’s quite prominent in the neighborhood and had a lot of charm. I could sense the potential.” — Matt Hollingsworth, on the building that would become Mildred Hall
MARCH | APRIL 2023
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y BEFORE: Main Galler
Shane McKenzie/Portland Imagery
home + design
r : Exterio BEFORE
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perfect spots for the workshops. Each congregation had altered the building just a bit, so it needed a cosmetic overhaul to unify it, which Hollingsworth led over a year-long remodel. “I’ve always had an old house, so I enjoy that type of thing,” he said. He started by pulling out the dropped ceiling in the main sanctuary and exposing the rafters, then adding skylights to enhance light and air circulation. “As much as possible, we were careful to not change the original portions of the building,” he noted. “As we started going through the process, we thought, ‘Let’s just do it right.’” To that end, he added insulation, a new roof and HVAC; refinished the wood floors; and restored the original leaded glass windows. The basement was gutted and opened up to accommodate groups, and the concrete floors there repolished. Out back, running bamboo had sprouted beneath the deck, so Matt tore it all out and rebuilt. A painting contractor was brought in to strip down the exterior wood and give it a fresh coat, with copper gutters as the finishing touch. “I was here every day,” Hollingsworth said with a laugh. “I didn’t have clean clothes for a year,”
Shane McKenzie/Portland Imagery
Shane McKenzie/Portland Imagery
BEFO RE: D owns tairs
The couple put more than a year into remodeling the church, including the downstairs (at left, top), main gallery (above)—with beautiful wooden floors and lighting—and a sun deck (at left, bottom).
Along the way, he found relics from the church’s past—like a sign announcing the service of its original Norwegian pastor— and researched the building’s history. By the time the couple opened in 2022, a neighbor suggested submitting the project to Restore Oregon’s annual DeMuro Awards, which celebrate historic preservation efforts all over the state. Matt wasn’t sure they’d qualify: “There’s a lot of really strict rules for restoring something, and we didn’t follow a guidebook,” he said. “We just tried to keep what was original as intact as possible.” But it turns out, their approach indeed fit the criteria, and they were one of eleven winners announced in a November ceremony. These days, community is what the building, now called Mildred Hall, is all about, with its slate of workshops, from yoga to cooking demos to arts-focused classes, and events. “The real fun of working on the project was whenever we were out front working in the garden, people would come by and ask what we were doing,” Hollingsworth recalled. “They’d get so excited and happy that we were restoring the building and making a space for the community to use it.”
Historic Preservation Around Oregon Restore Oregon was founded in 1977 with the goal to preserve, revitalize, reuse and activate community around shared historic places. Since 2013, the organization’s annual DeMuro Awards have raised visibility for historic preservation projects statewide. “We really try hard to, not only represent the whole state in this program, but also all levels of preservation,” said Nicole Possert, executive director. “Not just capital ‘P’-preservation, but good reuse of buildings. And not just in a professional setting, but as in the example of Mildred Hall, DIY efforts as well.” Read on for more 2022 DeMuro Award winners: MARCH | APRIL 2023
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Lara Swimmer
home + design
WINNER
PORTLAND
gress Construction in Pro
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Lara Swimmer
Occasionally, the organization recognizes new construction, such as this five-story, 58,000-square foot, mixed-use ubergreen Living Building that sits where a parking lot used to be in a National Historic Landmark District. The building has the “look and feel” of a historic building, said Restore Oregon, but will last 500 years thanks to sustainable construction.
Lara Swimmer
PAE Living Building
Dale Mammen
home + design WINNER
LA GRANDE
CD Putnam’s Ready Wear
Dale Mammen
Built in 1911, this storefront sits next to the Orpheum Theater in La Grande’s Historic District. It was rehabbed by its owners with several grants, in order to revitalize a main street. “It’s a really good case study of maintaining the connectivity of downtowns,” said Possert.
Histori c Photo
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home + design WINNER
PORTLAND
Steeplejack Brewing
Steeplejack
c Photo Histori
Steeplejack
When this 1909 church on a highly visible corner of Broadway went up for sale, there were only two bids on it, one of which was from a developer who wanted to tear it down. Instead, it was sold to the owners of Steeplejack Brewing, who restored it themselves to fashion a craft brewery, bar, restaurant and coffee house.
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Hennebery Eddy Architects/Josh Partee
home + design
WINNER
EUGENE
University of Oregon Gerlinger Alumni Lounge Rehabilitation This is a meticulous restoration of a 1922 Georgian-style building associated with two key figures in the university’s history: Irene Gerlinger, the first woman Regent, and Ellis Lawrence, the first dean of the architecture school.
LEARN MORE
Historic Photo
MARCH | APRIL 2023
Applications for the 2023 DeMuro Awards are open now. Learn more or apply at www.restoreoregon. org/apply-for-the-demuro-awardsexcellence-in-preservation
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home + design
DIY
Chicken Coop illustrations by Jenna Lechner
THESE DAYS, chicken coops can be design statements. Whether you want to create a miniature version of your own house, or do some sort of abstract shape not previously seen in nature, it’s a project that really lends itself to the imagination. However, there are basic requirements that all coops should follow to keep those hens comfortable and laying eggs, as the purpose of a coop is to protect from predators; extreme climate, either hot or cold; and escape. We tapped the Oregon State University Extension Service for the following tips:
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PROTECT THE HENS Most coops will have a main structure and a run, the latter being an outdoor area for the chickens to roam. Raise the floor of the main building one foot off the ground so snakes, rats, raccoons and skunks can’t penetrate the structure. Also, enclose the run in strong mesh fencing that is buried in the ground fairly deep, about 6 inches to 1 foot, to ward off digging foxes, coyotes, dogs and rodents. Locate the structure close to a main building for safety and keep large plants away, so predators do not have a place to hide. KEY MEASUREMENTS Always check specific breed needs, but here are general requirements. Each bird will need 3-4 square feet of indoor space if a run is available. If there’s no outdoor space, provide 8 to 10 square feet of indoor space. For the run, provide at least 4 square feet per chicken.
CLIMATE CONTROL Insulation isn’t necessary, but make sure there is adequate ventilation without drafts. Install protected openings, like windows, doors and vents, to encourage passive ventilation. INDOOR FEATURES These include roosting poles, which provide a place to sleep, and nesting boxes, where eggs are laid. Each has their own size and configuration requirements. Make sure food, via troughs, and water, via waterers, both found at farm suppliers, is also available. Roosting poles should be two feet off the floor, with 5-10 inches of space available per chicken, and each pole 10 inches apart. These can be built in a ladder formation, or a flat “bed” formation. There should be one nest box per 3-4 hens, each box measuring one-foot square. Fill the box with straw or sawdust to prevent egg breakage before collecting!
Garey Gomez
The Power of Design The Exper tise of Process The Science of Per formance The Beauties of Wood
YOUR LOCAL TIMBER FRAME & HIGH-PERFORMANCE DESIGN + BUILD PARTNER SERVING OREGON FROM OUR STUDIO IN PORTLAND & SHOP IN MCMINNVILLE
503.719.4800 | NEWENERGYWORKS.COM/OREGON
home + design
Modern Takes on Old Crafts Theresa Arrison makes “modern ceramics with a vintage vibe,” including a cadre of handmade fruit bowls. They come in a variety of shapes, cut-out patterns and colors, from sunshine yellow to teal—sure to brighten any countertop. www.theresa-arrison.com
The Newberg-based Spalted Burl Woodworks is a modern woodturner who transforms naturally downed trees and wood salvaged from burn piles and chippers into gorgeous items for the home. This makes each piece, whether it’s a wine stopper, plate, vase or bowl composed of “mystery wood,” truly one-of-a-kind. www.spaltedburl.com Francisco and Laura Bautista, both born in Oaxaca, Mexico, to families of master weavers, create modern tapestries, rugs and pillows from brilliant hand-dyed wool in their Sandy studio. “I call it dancing on the loom,” said Francisco, who uses a foot pedal loom that requires movement of the whole body throughout the process. www.bautistaweaving.com
Show your state pride with a set of Oregon Landmark Coasters from Orox Leather Co. Each one is crafted from sturdy high-grade leather stamped with an iconic Oregon location, including Haystack Rock, Multnomah Falls, Mount Hood and Crater Lake. www.oroxleather.com 44
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A TRUE NOTE OF DISTINCTION Your home is your retreat. It’s where you can reflect and recharge, find moments of peace, or connect with those you love. Inspired by how people live, Marvin’s product portfolio and Parr Lumber’s expertise add a true note of distinction to those spaces where you spend your time. If you can dream it, we can help you create it — with remarkable beauty, meticulous attention to detail, and performance that offers peace of mind in every season.
The Total Home Building Source
PARR BEND 1311 SE Wilson Avenue Bend, OR 97702
Scan Here
to learn more about Windows and Doors Built for How You Live
Daniel O’Neil
artist in residence
Mika Aono feels at home wherever there’s a printing press, like here at the Sitka Center.
ABOVE During her artist residency at the Sitka Center for Art and Ecology, Mika Aono carved and printed her interpretation of the area’s interconnected hydrography.
Invisible Red Threads For Mika Aono, all things in art and life tie together
Daniel O’Neil
written by Daniel O’Neil
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IN AN increasingly complex world, Mika Aono looks beneath the surface to find a singular commonality. Her eyes and spirit perceive a coexistence between all beings, a belief only reinforced by a recent artist’s residency at the Sitka Center for Art and Ecology, on the north Oregon Coast. While at the Sitka Center, Aono sensed confluence at the nearby Salmon River estuary where time, water, flora, fauna and people intersect. She carved a hawk’s-eye view of the area, relying on old maps, and pulled a series of prints during her stay. “It’s not super accurate, but that’s the impression of me drawing by hand, tracing, feeling the line and the curvilinear forms that surround this place,” Aono said.
THE DESCHUTES HOUSE
$4,150,000
I
334 NW Columbia Street Bend, Oregon
Come visit this flawlessly designed home that perfectly fits its iconic Deschutes River location. The 3 bedroom, 3 bath, 2,945 square foot home, designed by FINNE Architects, is located in the heart of downtown Bend – within walking distance of Bend’s best restaurants and shops. When you return home and step back through the pivot-hinged front door – the luxuriant natural light, stunning river views, and private tranquil spaces will immediately reconnect you with nature. The main living area is completely transparent to the river on one side and to a quiet courtyard on the other. The master suite and study are cantilevered toward the river, providing unmatched bird’s-eye views of the ever-changing river and its wildlife. If you
get bored with admiring the stunning views, you can sunbathe in the courtyard, enjoy a campfire by the river, fish, go for a swim, or step onto your paddleboard to explore over 1.5 miles of the Deschutes River as it passes through the city. Crafted with locally sourced materials and artful finishes - the rooms are exquisitely detailed with wide plank oak floors, travertine, solid-surface counters, porcelain and glass tilework, Sapele cabinetry, ledgestone, artisanal glass panels, burnished steel, and trim that was hand-crafted from native Pacific Northwest timber. Seize this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to own and enjoy this expertly crafted, stunning landmark property.
JODELL BORN Licensed Oregon Real Estate Broler
541-420-5886 Jodell@LivOregonRE.com
LivOregonRealEstate.com
artist in residence
“Japanese people say the two people who are meant to be together are tied by their pinkies with invisible red thread. I imagine invisible red thread all over, tangled up in between us, and you can’t even see where it’s connected. I’m trying to find where it leads to, where it goes, how we are all connected.”
Daniel O’Neil
Daniel O’Neil
— Mika Aono
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Aono’s homeland, Japan, provides symbolism for her interwoven view. “Japanese people say the two people who are meant to be together are tied by their pinkies with invisible red thread,” Aono said. “I imagine invisible red thread all over, tangled up in between us, and you can’t even see where it’s connected. I’m trying to find where it leads to, where it goes, how we are all connected.” Since moving to Oregon two decades ago, Aono has called Eugene home. At the University of Oregon she has worked as a printmaking technician for eleven years and has taught printmaking for the past six. At the Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Art, Aono helps renowned artists make fine prints of their work, although she’s too humble to call herself a master printer. Rebecca Childers, a professor of art at the UO, recognizes Aono’s talent as a printmaker and artist while also appreciating her ability to create community both on and off campus. “Mika is not hierarchical in her approach,” Childers said. “She is ready and willing to help everybody make their best work and discover things about themselves and the world around them. It’s that same spirit of interconnectedness.” Aono grew up in Sendai, on northern Honshu. She walked past rice paddies to get to school, where at age 9 she began making art. She loved carving, and then she discovered oil painting, photography, sculpture, drafting, ceramics and more. Her mother also loved art, but her father believed in hard work, so when Aono began college she studied education, fearing her father’s opinion of art as a career. “I felt so restricted there as a Japanese woman,” Aono said in her effortless English and soft Japanese accent. “It’s always about what you’re supposed to be doing. Here it’s okay for me to choose what I want to do.” AT LEFT, FROM TOP Mika Aono uses bio-based marmoleum flooring scraps for printmaking, which she carves into a template for fine art. Aono believes the best carving tools and sharpest knives come from Japan — “My daughter says I’m biased,” Aono said.
Mika Aono
artist in residence
Mika Aono
At age 20, Aono studied in Minnesota as an exchange student. Suddenly she could take art classes. After Aono established herself in Oregon, she grew more confident as an artist and, while raising three children in Eugene, made time for a master’s degree in printmaking at the San Francisco Art Institute. As an artist, Aono eschewed any Japanese influence or identity in her work. “I didn’t want people to view me as a Japanese artist,” Aono said. “I wanted to create work in the contemporary art world.” In other ways, Aono remained truly Japanese as an artist. She now appreciates her father’s disciplined work ethic. “I’m a hard worker and kind of meticulous in how I work,” Aono said. “I love experimentation and intuition, and the delicacy that is always in my work. But I’m super picky about what I’m doing. The way I work as a printmaker or as an artist totally relates to who I am as a Japanese woman.” Some of the materials that Aono chooses also reflect her place in the world. She’ll print on exquisitely thin Asian paper, and whenever she sees an old nail on the ground she instinctively tucks it in her pocket. “I like material that has its own memories and histories, things that are discarded and abandoned, dislocated,” Aono said. “I think of myself away from home for a long time.” Currently, Aono is presenting work alongside Japanese-American artist Sandra Honda at the Walters Cultural Arts Center in Hillsboro. The show, titled “re-member,” follows Aono’s recent embrace of her Japanese roots and serves as a bridge between cultures. Again, art allows Aono to weave connections in her community. “Mika uses the power of printmaking to spread the word, to create equality,” Honda said. “She’s democratic in that way.” Besides collaborative shows, Aono volunteers around town. She co-founded the Eugene Printmakers, a group that empowers the public to make prints, and she forms part of Eugene Contemporary Art, a nonprofit artist collective. Aono’s nature is supportive and generous. “She would help a tree if it had a heavy limb on it,” Childers said. At the Sitka Center, Aono crafted almost a dozen multi-layered prints of the estuary and its tributaries. One can imagine the red thread that runs from shore to water and up into the hills, between the layers of ink. “We are all here in this place and time,” Aono said. “I want to find things that connect us all because every action we take affects everything else. I’m trying to find that in my idiosyncratic way.”
Mika Aono
Mika Aono’s a segment of a cycle, constructed of scavenged pipe, threads and handmade paper with seeds.
ABOVE, FROM TOP Discarded nails and hardware, jute string and wire make up Mika Aono’s Constructing Memory. Aono’s Sweeping Breath I from Metamorphosis: Visualizing the Music of Paul Hindemith, a collaboration between the Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Art in Eugene and the Eugene Symphony in which visual artists produced work responding to Paul Hindemith’s orchestral work Symphonic Metamorphosis on Themes of Weber.
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WHAT I’M WORKING ON 54 MY WORKSPACE 56 GAME CHANGER 58
pg. 54 UO chemistry professor Christopher Hendon researches traits of the complex coffee bean in search of consistency.
University of Oregon
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A Backcountry Getaway Eagle Cap Mountain Guides is expanding ski and stay options in “Little Switzerland” written by Grant Stringer SOME OF Oregon’s best skiing and snowboarding is waiting for you this winter, but it’s not anywhere near the crowded trails of Mt. Hood or Mt. Bachelor. Folks seeking dry powder snow and big turns, all without another soul in sight, should flock to the Wallowa Mountains. The rugged and lesser-known range is tucked into Oregon’s northeast corner, about 30 miles east of La Grande. Locals call it the state’s “Little Switzerland,” an expanse of vast bowls and high peaks just shy of 10,000 feet. You won’t find chairlifts in the Wallowas, and you’ll have to earn your turns by hiking and skinning up backcountry terrain. If that all sounds too intense, don’t fear. Several crews of experienced guides are available to safely shepherd intermediate- and advanced-skill skiers and boarders to the terrain of their dreams. One crew is led by Victor and Kelly McNeil, who co-founded Eagle Cap Mountain Guides three winters ago. The duo employs a small team of guides who tout credentials in mountaineering and avalanche safety, along with their canine assistants Luna and Sadie. Eagle Cap also offers overnight trips in the Wallowa’s western flank. It’s an exciting winter for the young guiding company, which is debuts a spruced-up basecamp and new overnight trip options this year. A new yurt accommodating up to eight people is now available to book at the Buck Creek Forest Camp, just west of the legendary Eagle Cap Wilderness. An adjoining wall tent is outfitted with sleeping quarters and zero-degree sleeping bags. Each meal is whipped up in a full-service, backcountry kitchen. 52
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The McNeils and their crew have also installed a custom-built sauna at camp for weary skiers to rest their legs after a good day of shredding. Overnight trips are usually three or four nights. For groups of two to three guests, the cost runs $385 per day per person. Groups of four to eight guests can expect to pay $330 per person per day. From basecamp, the team of professional guides navigates groups as high as 8,800 feet, Victor McNeil said. Depending on the snow quality and weather, they might choose skiing above, below or near the treeline in the region around two prominent peaks, Burger Butte and China Cap. The guides are trained by the American Mountain Guides Association or card-carrying professional members of the American Avalanche Association, so rest assured: you’ll be guided by experts who know how to avoid avalanche-prone terrain and what to do if someone does trigger a slide. McNeil himself has guided clients from Denali in Alaska to the high peaks of the South American Andes in a career spanning more than a decade. He said that the Wallowas snowpack—known for its dry, continental powder—is already looking strong this year. But he emphasized that the conditions aren’t the most important factor in a good trip. His guides know where to find the stashes, he said, and it’s extremely rare to end a trip early due to subpar snow. “As long as you have a good attitude and a positive outlook, you’re going to have a good time,” he said. You’ll need to bring a level of fitness to travel in the mountains and a ski or split board, along with the basic gear: your avalanche transceiver, shovel, probe, a backpack and layers of clothing. Eagle Cap Mountain Guides provides the rest. To book ahead of your trip, check availability on their website at www.eaglecapmountainguides.com and follow up with an email at info@ eaglecapmountainguides.com.
Photos, from top: Victor McNeil, Frank Chemotti
ABOVE Explore the Wallowas with Eagle Cap Mountain Guides. AT RIGHT Cozy accommodations for skiers in Eagle Cap Mountain Guides’ new yurt.
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what i’m working on
Professor Christopher Hendon studies, down to the cellular level, how espresso is made and tastes.
Oregon’s “Dr. Coffee” Chemistry professor Christopher Hendon is in search of the perfect cup written by Grant Stringer IT SHOULD come as no surprise that Oregon—home to some of the best cafes in the world—also harbors one of the world’s foremost experts on the chemistry of coffee. Christopher Hendon, assistant professor of chemistry and biochemistry at the University of Oregon, can usually be found toiling with his caffeinated team inside Willamette Hall on the university’s Eugene campus. His published research covers a wide range of materials and chemical processes, but Hendon has long scrutinized the intersection of coffee and chemistry. His co-authored book on the topic, Water for Coffee, made a big splash in the industry. Today, he’s known as “Dr. Coffee,” and wants to know why— chemically speaking—coffee tastes the way it does. A new project may get him there. Last month, Hendon announced he’ll lead a years-long venture studying espresso extraction, the act of combining water and espresso, with the Italian coffee machine maker Nuova Simonelli and the Specialty Coffee Association. It’s a critically important topic for coffee roasters, growers and baristas who want to know how and why factors like water quality, grind size, bean quality and more shape the taste of your morning brew, Hendon said. “It would be extremely valuable to understand what you like and why you like it.” 54 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
The goal is to create scientific standards of measurement for coffee to explain a brew’s sensory experience—in plain terms, how it tastes. In the lab, Hendon will pulse electricity through coffee beans, study the impacts on certain molecules and then scrutinize whether that process influences taste. His team will also use human taste-testers trained to focus on subtle flavors. If the project goes to plan, Hendon will create a template for baristas to brew the exact same cup of coffee every time. He said this information would solve big problems in the coffee industry and cut down on inconsistency. For example, coffee companies can’t objectively tell whether their beans are high quality when shipped from coffee-producing countries like Ethiopia to the U.S. According to Hendon, this work is still mostly done by hand. Even espresso machine companies can’t study how their products change the chemistry of coffee. A scientist at heart, Hendon said he’s not interested in whether one espresso is better than another. He’s wants to know whether a great cup of joe is reproducible or not. Is it possible to make that same cup twice? It’s all part of Hendon’s own fascination with what he calls the “mystery of coffee.” He knows that most coffee drinkers don’t need to know the molecular breakdown of their morning latte. But their baristas might. Hendon also expects that some diehard coffee drinkers don’t want this scientific information. Some baristas will be certain they can make the best cup of coffee every time they try, he said. But he loves to see how folks approach coffee extraction. Anyone is welcome to visit the lab in Eugene, which is open to the public. That attitude is key to Hendon’s approach to science. He sees himself as a bridge between coffee lovers and scientists, two groups of people who normally don’t interact with each other, even though there’s plenty of overlapping interest. His favorite coffees are Ethiopian, which are usually roasted lightly. The flavor is delicate, like black tea, he said.
If the project goes to plan, Hendon will create a template for baristas to brew the exact same cup of coffee every time. He said this information would solve big problems in the coffee industry and cut down on inconsistency.
Photos: University of Oregon
what i’m working on
“Dr. Coffee” Christopher Hendon said his favorite coffee beans are from Ethiopia and he enjoys their lightly roasted, delicate flavor.
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Joni Kabana
my workspace
After becoming starstruck while watching black drag queens perform in an all-ages show at The City Nightclub in Portland in the late ’80s, Kevin Cook said to himself: that could be me. Drag is for me! Fast forward to thirty-four years later, drag has definitely played an important focus for Cook via the sharp-tongued and glam gorgeous drag identity, Poison Waters.
Tickled by Fancy Portland’s Poison Waters is a drag queen icon written by Joni Kabana 56
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Poison’s award list over the years includes titles such as Rosebud 13 (Underage Drag Pageant), La Femme Magnifique (both Oregon and International), Imperial Princess 25, Rose Empress 44 and Queen of Queens. Accolades and awards aside, what is most important to this queen is kindness and humor. Known for her intelligent quick wit and sassy communication style, Poison can also be found volunteering at numerous nonprofits (she grew up poor and benefitted from charities) and hosting fundraising events for causes that are important to her.
Joni Kabana
my workspace
While it once took Cook two hours to transform into Poison, after years of honing her practice it now takes twenty minutes. Sparkly sequined gowns, flashy spiked heels, lavish floaty feather boas and oversized look-at-me jewels (lots of them) are kept at the ready in a “drag room” at home as well as in a large space at Darcelle XV Showplace (the longest running drag show in the world) where she performs every week. Dresses and shoes large enough to fit are obtained through online shopping and social media accounts that cater specifically to drag queens. Poison won’t disclose how much she spends on makeup, but she did note that she replenishes her supply quarterly.
All of the glamor and glitz pale in comparison to the real reason Cook has dedicated over three decades to drag performance. “People who think all drag queens want to be women baffle me. For me, drag is for entertainment purposes only. I find humor in all that I see and do. People don’t come to a drag show to dwell on their troubles; they want to forget about them. Making people laugh is therapeutic for both myself and the audience. And when women tell me all the time: ‘I wish I could wear all those sequins and sparkly outfits,’ I say just do it! Why save the sparkles for the holiday party? Wear them all year long. If it makes you happy, that’s all that matters.”
Tom Cook Photo
Poison fully accepts that drag shows are not everyone’s cup of sugared tea, even though these shows are no longer deemed taboo and have to be held secretly underground. “Drag Queens are fun, but I realize drag may not be everyone’s thing and that’s ok. We’re here for all!”
LEARN MORE
Poison Waters, right, with Darcelle XV.
Poison’s calendar is chock-full of events, including a yearly appearance as Mother Ginger in Oregon Ballet Theatre’s Nutcracker. Find performances here: www.poisonwaters.com/calendar
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Paul Cranfield/Friends of the Owyhee
game changer
Owyhee Preservation Friends of the Owyhee pushes for a wilderness designation for the ecoregion written by James Sinks
The vast and beautiful Owyhee region in Eastern Oregon may soon become a federally protected place.
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TIM DAVIS wasn’t even a year old when he first camped in Southeast Oregon’s Owyhee basin, the rocky, sage-punctuated expanse of high desert and canyonlands that straddle state lines with both Idaho and Nevada. As he grew up in the tiny Malheur County community of Adrian, the rugged landscape beckoned from just past the doorstep. Now 36 years old, he’s increasingly unsettled about what’s happening on the 9 million acres of the Owyhee, and whether it will be the same for future generations. Population pressure—from waves of recreation-seekers from the fast-growing Treasure Valley in Idaho to development to homeless camps— and also mining threaten to upend the balance for a place that’s, in places, as delicate as it is desolate, he said.
Tim Davis/Friends of the Owyhee
What to do about it? He believes more people should see and experience the Owyhee, the way he has. Then, they’ll be more protective too. A former prison guard, Davis was drawn into conversations about the fate of the Owyhee when environmental advocates proposed a federal monument overlay for the region in the mid2010s. He started leading camping and teaching trips, and brokering relationships over coffee with ranchers and others to talk about shared goals. That includes saving picturesque places like Leslie Gulch—as well as the importance of maintaining the longterm vitality of the region’s agricultural economy. In 2019, he officially founded the nonprofit Friends of the Owyhee to support those education efforts, and the fledgling organization now has a staff of three and an office in Ontario. “Not everybody sees the Owyhee as special, and they think there is nothing out there so why do we need to preserve it? So we connect people to the place, and they understand it is a remote but also an intact ecosystem,” Davis said. “It’s one of the largest ecoregions in the lower forty-eight without a large population.” Proposals and different visions for protecting the basin are percolating, albeit slowly, in Washington, D.C., including the Malheur Community Empowerment for the Owyhee Act proposed by U.S. Sens. Ron Wyden, D-Ore., and Jeff Merkley, D-Ore. The most recent version of the bill would create a wilderness—but not a stricter monument designation—covering more than 1 million scattered acres, a combined 1,700 square miles. The proposal would manage wildfire risks and allow grazing to continue, including in some wilderness areas, but also would limit development and ATV trails. Protected places would include parts of the Trout Creek Mountains, Castle Rock, Leslie Gulch and the Jordan Craters. Nothing is a sure thing when it comes to politics or land management, however, and there’s not agreement about it. Davis, who grew up badmouthing conservationists and understands a common rural “live-and-let-live” mindset, said there’s increasing agreement that the status quo won’t work forever. The nonprofit, whose staff includes a geologist, usually leads one camping and education tour every month into the outback except in the hottest time of the year. Some of the annual $250,000 budget is recouped from those treks, and the rest comes from donations, he said. Elias Eiguren, a fourth-generation rancher in Arock whose family runs 500 head of cattle on private land and via U.S. Bureau of Land Management leases, said he has been appreciative of the Friends of the Owyhee’s effort to stake out middle ground that includes protecting grazing rights. When Eiguren isn’t chasing cattle or his four kids, he serves as the spokesman for the Owyhee Basin Stewardship Coalition, a group of business and recreation interests that formed in 2016 to oppose the proposed national monument designation. The group fears not just the threats of wildfires and non-ranch-friendly development, but also a straitjacket of too-restrictive regulation. “I appreciate the way Tim does it,” said Eiguren, of the Friends of the Owyhee’s engagement and education philosophy. “It’s good to
Randy Aarestad/Friends of the Owyhee
game changer
Friends of the Owyhee leads groups into the canyon to teach them about the region’s unique ecology. They hope that views like these will be preserved for future generations.
get people out and show how you should recreate, take on projects, get rid of weeds, and bring in people with geology experience.” It’s a contrast, Eiguren said, to some other conservation groups that wield rural-economy-straining lawsuits as a cudgel. Davis said he anticipates that some sort of federal protection will happen someday that won’t lock up the land from recreation and livestock—yet also will allow future generations to marvel at an Owyhee that isn’t overrun by large-scale mines, motorized trails, or sprawling homesites. As always, he’s excited to share his love of the place, one camping trip—and cup of coffee—at a time. Among the future generations he has in mind are the five children in his family, including the youngest, which he and his wife named Jordan, after the Owyhee’s Jordan Valley. Like his dad, Jordan first camped in the Owyhee before he was a year old. MORE ONLINE
To learn more, visit www.friendsoftheowyhee.org
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EAT THIS Á La Carte at The Lot, Bend
Keep On
Truckin’ Truckin Saviors during Covid, food truck pods are surging in creativity around the state written by Jean Chen Smith
After all, there are more than 500 food trucks in Portland alone, although because of the challenges they face, this number is not an exact accounting. Food pods are a group of individual food trucks that are in one area and have become even more popular during the pandemic. Here we have compiled a list of some of the best pods in Oregon.
T. Nolan Imagery
IF YOU LIVE in Oregon, chances are you are not a stranger to the food truck phenomenon.
Central Oregon Crosscut Warming Hut No. 5 is in Bend and is popular with beer drinkers as it offers locally crafted beer as well as those specific to the Pacific Northwest. Wine is available on-site as well. There are three different food cart offerings that are sure to satisfy. Abe Capanna’s Detroit Pan Pizza serves deep dish, thick crusted pizza like you have never tasted before! Here you’ll encounter perfect proportions of dough and cheese with a large selection of toppings. Bluma’s Chicken & Waffles is great for sandwiches, but go for what they are known for— chicken and waffles, boneless deep-fried chicken with Belgian waffles. Did you want maple syrup and hot honey with that? Sure, why not! Gyro Power is an ode to Mediterranean street
food, serving up plump falafel, hummus, and of course tzatziki. Ample seating—both indoor and outside—is available. Check the website for a list of concerts and events. (www.crosscutbeer.com) Another great spot in Bend is The Lot, which was established in 2013 and offers four food carts and its taproom serving beer, cider, hard seltzer and wine. Choose from Fricken Fraco, which has fried chicken and fish taco offerings, Burgz N Dogz, Maki Maki Sushi, and Á La Carte, which serves up fries, salads and delicious tacos. The seating area opens up in the warmer months and can be enclosed in winter months, along with ample heat and heated benches to keep hungry visitors cozy. (www.facebook. com/TheLotBend) The Barn in Sisters is thirty minutes from Bend. Set in a spacious barn, it does not disappoint in ambience. The Taphouse serves local brews, and there are currently four food
ABOVE Crosscut Warming Hut No. 5 in Bend is a great indoor/ outdoor venue for foodies and local beer aficionados. (photos, from top: Steve Heinrichs Photography, The Bite)
In the small unincorporated town of Tumalo sits The Bite, well-known for its superb carts such as Rico’s Tacos, NorthFresh Sushi, Pine Marten Pizza and the meaty sandwich cart The Rogue Chef.
trucks on-site: Rootbound for vegan eats, Boone Dog Pizza, Chulita Tacos and Pop’s Southern BBQ. Rootbound has amazing salad options such as winter rooted salad and ingredients change with the seasons. Pop’s has a sumptuous brisket and a delicious smoked chicken. You will want to box that up and take some home. (www.thebarninsisters.com) In the small unincorporated town of Tumalo sits The Bite, well-known for its superb carts such as Rico’s Tacos, NorthFresh Sushi, Pine Marten Pizza and the meaty sandwich cart The Rogue Chef. Popular with locals and tourists, it does get crowded, especially if the weather is nice. But with lots of seating options, it is a great way to enjoy a day in Central Oregon. The Rogue Chef is Stefan Pena, who has been in the food industry for more than twenty years and was formerly the head chef at Peerless Restaurant & Bar in Ashland. His cart serves cheesesteak, grilled cheese, garlic fries and reuben sandwiches. NorthFresh Sushi serves creative Japanese food such as kimchi ghost pepper poké and tempura jalapeño poppers. All of those in a sushi eatery! The cart brings in fresh fish delivered daily and works with reliable and sustainable suppliers throughout Oregon. (www. thebitetumalo.com)
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Portland Area Portland’s food scene is explosive and creative, with a lot to explore. It’s hard to pick a favorite. Travel Portland has developed a user-friendly Food Cart Finder (www.bit.ly/PortlandFoodCartFinder) where hungry diners can search and find a list of pods in the area. What’s even better is the website’s filter option, which can help find the type of cuisine you might want to try or filter for any dietary restrictions or preferences. Hinterland at SE 50th between Hawthorne and Division opened January 2022 with heated and covered outdoor seating. The pod offers five thoughtfully curated food carts ranging from BBQ tacos and burgers to vegan-friendly options such as Mexican hotspot La Taquiza Vegana. One of the food carts is Third Culture Kitchen, a collaboration between owners Billy Faqua and Jon Free who grew up in Peru and Japan respectively. Third Culture Kitchen integrates both culinary upbringings and experiences. Try their Nashville fried chicken sandwich, a filling and savory delight. Check out the offerings at Burger Stevens, where chef Don Salamone draws from his experience in fine dining and uses the highest quality beef and local ingredients. An added benefit of Hinterland is its website which also publishes the food cart menu offerings. There are also cocktails, beer and wine available for purchase on site. (www.hinterlandpdx.com) For a bigger selection, wander down to Hawthorne Asylum near SE Hawthorne in the Central Eastside, where there are twenty-one food carts to choose 62
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Hawthorne Asylum food carts in Portland. Newly opened Hinterland food cart pod on SE 50th in Portland. The Freckled Peach at Oregon City’s Corner 14. (photos, clockwise from left: Celeste Noche/Travel Portland, Katie Acheff/ Acheff Images, Aubrie LeGault, Justin Katigbak/ Travel Portland)
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
from, ranging from savory tacos, burgers and grilled cheese to waffles and baked goods. The Asylum is more like a hang out place rather than a grab-andgo pod. There is an enclosed space for warming up as well as a fire pit outdoors. Foodies can choose from Southern mac and cheese from Montage Ala Cart, Korean burritos and rice bowls from Korean Twist, or waffle sandwiches from Smaaken, among many others such as Texicano, Tall Boy, La Naranja and Dr. Philly Cheesesteak. The hard part is
deciding where to eat and picking a favorite. (www.instagram. com/hawthorne_asylum) Just a twenty-minute drive from Portland, Oregon City is home to Corner 14, a fullservice bar that hosts more than twelve food carts. Open seven days a week, you will find groups of people enjoying food and drinks along with a favorite Oregonian past-time—axe throwing. Check Corner 14’s website for live concerts and other events. Maw Maw’s serves authentic Cajun cuisine that doesn’t disappoint. Try Shawarma Express
EAT THIS Matt’s BBQ Tacos at Hinterland, Portland
if you have a hankering for Middle Eastern shawarma and kebab or check out The Freckled Peach, which has sweet and savory waffles. Want Thai food? Krua Bangkok has the best red curry and pad Thai. There is something for every taste bud here. Locally owned by the Fowler family, who have lived in Oregon City since the 1950s, Corner 14 is a gathering place both for locals as well as visitors from all over. Next time, you are in the area, stop by and check out the welcoming space. (www. corner14oc.com)
Sandlandia World Cuisine sits between Portland and Mt. Hood in the town of Sandy. World Cuisine is located at 38400 Pioneer Boulevard across from the Sandy Shell Station, where travelers can find carts such as Taqueria El Jaliscience, Cast Iron Skillet, Breakfast in the Hood, Pinto Thai and Gyro Time to name a few. There is outdoor seating under a tent. Hours vary by food cart, so please check their website for updated hours and information. (www.facebook. com/sandlandia)
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Southern Oregon Food trucks are popular throughout Klamath Falls. Rather than large clusters, usually the eateries number between two and three. Because of their small clusters, the pods do not have names. The two most well-known spots are located on South Sixth Street, relatively close to each other. Located at 3540 S. 6th St. are Fuong’s Kitchen, SomTum Thai, Hangry House and Die Hard Coffee. Fuong’s serves delicious curry chicken and vegetarian spring rolls. Sum Tom Thai has absolutely delicious noodle offerings. Do not miss its pad see ew, another name for stir-fried soy sauce noodles. All are open Monday through Saturday at various times, and Die Hard Coffee is open seven days a
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week. Please check each cart’s website for hours. The second location at 3131 S. 6th St. plays host to Tacos la Fogata, Triple J Deli and Sweet and Savory. Tacos la Fogata is known for its Mexican street food such as carne asada, adobada and al pastor tacos. They make guacamole, which is fresh and tasty. Triple J Deli serves up diverse offerings with sandwiches, wraps and smoothies. Sweet and Savory fills with burgers, fries, waffles and sweet treats, which rotate over time. (www. discoverklamath.com/eat-drink) Also located in Klamath Falls, The Falls Taphouse has indoor seating with a rooftop area along with plenty of seating outside. The taphouse is located on the hillside and has two food cart options, Maria’s Taqueria and Wubba’s BBQ. Open seven days a week, the tap menu offers a variety of beers and ciders. Maria’s serves tacos, burritos
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BELOW, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Falls Taphouse in Klamath Falls has a great outdoor vibe. Taco Da Town at The Lot in Roseburg. Triple J Deli in Klamath Falls. (photos, clockwise from top left: The Falls Taphouse, Jonathan Cummings/Experience Roseburg, Triple J Deli)
Taco Da Town and Dragon Wagon are hits at The Lot Roseburg. Taco Da Town serves up vegetarianfriendly tacos and bites while Dragon Wagon has affordable and yummy Thai food.
and gringa, which is similar to a quesadilla. Wubba’s BBQ has some of the best pulled pork in the area. Staff are friendly and upbeat. (www.facebook.com/ thefallstaphouse) Visit The Great Eats of the Street in Medford for chicken and waffles, BBQ and tasty hot dogs. Bartlett Bites, at the corner of 4th and Bartlett, is another food pod option. There the Prickly Pear serves Cuban food such as the Havana Bowl with either chicken or pork. (www.bit.ly/GreatEatsMedford; www.facebook.com/ BartlettBitesMedford) The Lot Roseburg is conveniently located half a mile off of I-5 Exit 124. Taco Da Town and Dragon Wagon are hits at The Lot. Taco Da Town serves up vegetarian-friendly tacos and bites while Dragon Wagon has affordable and yummy Thai food. (www.bit.ly/ TheLotRoseburg)
Northwest Oregon Along the coast in Astoria, this pod is unnamed, but it has many options and some of the area’s best sandwiches and Thai food. Head to the Corner of 11th and Duane to find a collection of food offerings such as Coffee or Waffle, CS Fishery, Hong Kong Taco and Roll and Bowl to name a few. All food can be ordered ahead of time through Slurpalicious. (www. astoriaeatsout.com/carts)
EAT THIS
Coffee or Waffle food cart in Astoria. (photo: Candy Yiu)
Western Oregon In the college town of Corvallis, home to Oregon State University, is Common Fields, a small collective of food pods where college students and locals hang out to grab a bite to eat and something to drink. Seating is separated by stalls with tables and chairs for privacy. All dining stalls are covered to offer shelter from rain and the elements. There is also an indoor space with more tables to gather along with
Black Forest Kitchen at Common Fields, Corvallis
TOP RIGHT All Thai’d Up in Eugene’s 8th and Olive pod. (photos, from top: Melanie Griffin/ EugeneCascades Coast.org, FrizzStudio.com)
retail items for sale. Though the pod often rotates dining offerings, currently food carts include healthy Mediterranean food from Kalamata Bistro, hearty German and Bavarian dishes from Black Forest Kitchen, authentic food from Nai Nai’s Burmese Snack Shack and Salvadoran cuisine from Pupuseria Del Valle. The salads are fresh and delicious from Kalamata’s kitchen and the dumplings as are the savory noodles from Nai Nai’s, which means grandmother in
Chinese. (www.commonfields corvallis.com) In downtown Eugene, known only by its cross streets of 8th and Olive, this international assortment of food truck pods is hugely popular. All Thai’d Up serves tasty stir fry, curry dishes and made-to-order noodles, while Bing King has traditional Chinese crepes, a must if you have never tried them. Limited outdoor seating available. (www.eugenecascades coast.org/blog/post/guide-toeugene-food-truck-pods)
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Smelling Like Roses? The restoration of Portland lingers as some aspects of recovery sprout written by Lee Lewis Husk
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HREE YEARS after Portland withered under the punishing light of Covid, monthslong protests, a mushrooming homeless population and spiking crime rates, many people are wondering whether the City of Roses is recovering. The short answer is, it depends on your perspective. For downtown resident Sandy Poole Keiter, “I do feel like Portland is getting better, but the last three years were terrible.” Six years ago, she and her husband, Jim, traded their suburban home for a highrise apartment along Southwest First Avenue. Only a block off the waterfront, the couple spent their first three years relishing their proximity to cafes, outdoor concerts, festivals and the city’s famed foodie culture. In 2020, the pandemic and street protests shuttered large swaths of the city and made residents and visitors alike feel unsafe. Now the couple has an apartment they can’t afford to sell. When they go out, they’re confronted with huge piles of trash, largely due to homeless encampments, and wonder why the city isn’t picking up the trash. There’s no question that the city and its government have taken a huge dive in public confidence and their ability to address issues of safety and homelessness. A December 2022 poll conducted by DHM Research for the Portland Business Alliance concluded that voter pessimism has leveled off, but homelessness and crime remain top issues facing the region. The crime surge is supported by Portland Police Bureau’s data showing a slight uptick from 2019 to 2022 in personal assaults but a big jump in property offenses like burglary, vehicle theft and vandalism. More alarming, homicide cases nearly tripled, from thirty-six in 2019 to ninety-seven last year. Gun homicides are up 73 percent over the previous threeyear average. MARCH | APRIL 2023
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The surge in violence began in 2020 when police resources were redirected to quelling protests. “Defund the police” was a rallying cry that led to the Portland City Council and the mayor to cut millions from the police budget. (The cuts were partially restored in 2021.) Oregon’s Measure 110 decriminalized small amounts of controlled substances and rendered the court system helpless to prosecute possession of small amounts of drugs such as heroin, cocaine and meth. Survey respondents in the business alliance poll identified homelessness as the biggest problem facing the region, but the percentage was down from 2021, suggesting that voters are feeling better about the region and sense that progress is being made. Mayor Ted Wheeler has said his top priority is to get homeless Portlanders stabilized, better connected to services and into housing. Last November, he and the Portland City Council adopted a five-part plan and $27 million to fast-track construction of affordable housing and connect unhoused individuals to mental health and substance recovery services. It aims to help unhoused individuals find paid work and contains a ban on unsanctioned camping, replacing that with emergency shelters, Safe Rest Villages (tiny homes where people experiencing homelessness can access services) and designated campsites. The plan also creates diversion programs for low-level offenses outside the criminal legal system.
Office Space Still Sitting Vacant According to industry sources, commercial office space in the city core has dipped from 30 to 50 percent of pre-pandemic levels. “It’s been pretty bleak these last two to three years,” said Kelly Ross, executive director of the National Association of Industrial and Office Properties, Oregon Chapter. He cited a combination of factors, some left over from the pandemic where a large percentage of office workers have not returned to downtown as well as homelessness, lack of cleanliness, crime and an unfavorable tax climate. Six of ten respondents of a July 2022 survey by the Portland Business Journal perceive the current business tax policies within the Portland metro area as anti-business with 61 percent calling the business climate “bad.” However, 31 percent expressed optimism that the next year would be better. The survey also found that one-third of business executives are considering a move out of Portland due to taxes, the anti-business climate and safety concerns. JLL, a global commercial real estate services company, reported that the largest contributor to 2022’s decline in downtown occupancy was Liberty Mutual’s 68
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departure from its namesake building, Liberty Centre, to Kruse Way in Lake Oswego. Nearly all respondents in the business journal survey believe the city and county governments haven’t done enough to address crime and homelessness, and only a third believe they have done enough to help businesses recover from the pandemic. “We’re seeing improvements in terms of boards and plywood coming off business windows,” Ross said. “There also seems to be a slight improvement in the homeless situation as well.” He said the one bright spot in commercial real estate is the industrial sector which has experienced growth as a result of e-commerce, manufacturing, warehousing and distribution. “It’s going to take strong leadership by Portland City Council and the Multnomah County Board of Commissioners to make tangible and visible changes to the way things look on the ground in the central city— cleaning up, homeless camps, clamping down on criminal activity and making downtown a more welcoming place, especially for capital investment,” Ross said.
It’s going to take strong leadership by Portland City Council and the Multnomah County Board of Commissioners to make tangible and visible changes to the way things look on the ground in the central city.” — Kelly Ross, executive director of the National Association of Industrial and Office Properties, Oregon Chapter
Portland Metro Home Sales Still Brisk But Slowing “After all the negativities cast on the Portland area with Covid, riots and more people living on the streets, it hasn’t adversely affected the real estate market,” said Diana Colin, president of the board of directors of the Portland Metro Association of Realtors and broker at Keller Williams Realty Portland Central. Sellers still have the advantage but climbing interest rates have changed the dynamics. Before the pandemic, interest rates were around 3.5 percent. “We predicted 2020 was going to be an extremely strong sellers’ market,” she said. “Then Covid hit. We were down for about two weeks trying to figure out what to do,” Colin said. With help from the governor to classify realtors as essential workers, realtors were able to get right back into the market. She said they figured out how to keep clients safe through masking, having every home fully sanitized and providing virtual home tours. “We had to change the way we do business,” she said. In February 2023, the mortgage rate for a thirtyyear fixed loan was 6.5 percent (down from 7.2 percent in October 2022). “That was a real jolt to the system. Buyers were in shock,” she said. “They couldn’t believe the $650,000 home they thought they could afford was down to a $430,000 home.” As of December 2022, the average sales price for Portland Metro was $610,900, up 25 percent from $459,200 three years ago. Although bidding wars have cooled off, prices haven’t come down much, and buyers are adjusting to the new reality. “Sellers are realizing they need to be more competitive. If a property is in good condition and the asking price is realistic, homes will sell within days,” she said. Market Action, a publication of the RMLS (Regional Multiple Listing Service), shows it’s taking longer to sell a home, an average of fifty-five days in December compared with thirty-two days the previous year. An interesting observation of Colin’s—a thirty-sixyear veteran of residential real estate—is that more buyers are millennials who lived at home during the pandemic years, saved up and are now ready to set up housekeeping. Portland’s reputation for livability, friendliness and affordability compared with California and other places make it a hot market for firsttime buyers. Other buyers include baby boomers like the Keiters, who want to shift from larger homes into condos or retirement communities. Colin said people still want to come to Oregon from California, Washington and many parts of the country.
Portland tourism is seeing real recovery from the massive impacts of the pandemic. However, there is still a long road to full recovery.” — Marcus Hibdon, spokesperson for Travel Portland
Leisure Tourists Are Back But Business Travel Hasn’t Rebounded Leisure travel is leading tourists back to the City of Roses, but business travel has been slow as many offices remain partially closed downtown, according to Marcus Hibdon, spokesperson for Travel Portland. “Portland tourism is seeing real recovery from the massive impacts of the pandemic,” he said. “However, there is still a long road to full recovery.” Hotel occupancy rates are rising but haven’t come close to pre-pandemic figures. For example, hotel occupancy in 2021 and 2022 was 45 and 54 percent but that was far below 75 percent occupancy in 2019. Overnight visits are growing, and vacation rental properties like Airbnb are experiencing an uptick. “More importantly, the city itself has returned to normal with new businesses offering plenty for travelers to see and do in our beloved neighborhoods, drawing locals and visitors alike,” he said. “National media are paying more attention to Portland again, especially in our dining scene as we arguably have several of the country’s best new restaurants.” People have begun to venture back into Portland and its still-recovering downtown. Portland State University, a vital presence in the city core, reopened. People are crowding farmers’ markets, the Rose Festival, parades and other popular events. The thirty-five-story Ritz Carlton with 132 luxury residents and a hotel are under construction and will be the city’s first five-star hotel. The City of Roses may not resemble its former self, but a new beginning has budded. MARCH | APRIL 2023
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TeamLab, Flowers and People — A Whole Year per Hour An international art collective of artists, programmers, engineers, animators and mathematicians, TeamLab has exhibitions in a number of cities, including Tokyo, Shanghai, Miami and New York. This is the first time their experiential artwork has made an appearance in Portland. Catch their mesmerizing twelve-monitor floral installation that stars a year’s worth of flowers blooming and floating across the screen over the course of an hour. The dream-like exhibit includes a motion sensor for immediate interaction and engagement—when viewers move in front of the artwork, the celestial visuals respond and change in real time.
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THE EARTH LAUGHS IN FLOWERS written by Kerry Newberry | photography courtesy of The Lobby ONE OF THE great wonders of city life is walking familiar neighborhoods and discovering tiny new art galleries. These pockets of paintings and sculptures offer quiet moments of contemplation and beauty in our busy and fast-moving world. To experience the splendor of early spring flowers, head to The Lobby, one of Portland’s newest boutique galleries. Located on the ground floor of the Ellen Browning Building on Division Street, this sliver of a space is designed to encourage creativity, community and connection. The concept for the recently opened gallery hails from building owner Molly McCabe’s commitment to philanthropy and passion for leading-edge contemporary art. Each exhibit will feature pieces from McCabe’s personal art collection curated by Sima Familant. Here’s the buoyant selection from the flower-focused inaugural exhibit, The Earth Laughs. Highlights include a series of iPad drawings by renowned painter David Hockney, monoprints by Andy Warhol and a large-scale digital installation that illuminates the life of a flower by TeamLab, a trailblazing international art collective. The Earth Laughs is available to visit Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., and the exhibit runs through May. For more information, visit www.ellenbrowningbuilding.com/the-lobby.
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1) LEFT Max Jansons, Flower Tree 2 An oil-on-linen painting by contemporary artist Max Jansons. CENTER Karin Gulbran, Untitled (Frolicking Spotted Cats with Yellow Flowers) An artist with multiple international exhibitions, Gulbran is known for her large ceramic vessels most often depicting images of animals in surreal and sublime landscapes. RIGHT David Hockney, The Arrival of Spring in Woodgate, East Yorkshire in 2011
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Since 2009, the eminent British-born artist David Hockney has been exploring and embracing the world of art with touch screens. This series of iPad prints captures the changing seasons near his home in East Yorkshire, England. Fun fact: In 2010 and 2011, Hockney traveled to Yosemite National Park and created twenty-eight images entirely with the Brushes app. The resulting Yosemite Suite images were featured in museums around the world. 2) Petra Cortright, Supergirl Kryptonite A pioneering multimedia artist, Cortright is known for her digital paintings on aluminum that reveal abstract landscapes and the ephemeral world of flowers. What sets her work apart is how she sources inspiration online and uses Photoshop to distort, transform and layer different flower images together to create a singular and evocative scene. 3) LEFT Fernando and Humberto Campana, Pirarucu Flower Vase
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This cast-bronze sculpture by the Campana brothers, renowned Brazilian furniture designers who spin layers of stories through their work, captures the grid-scaled texture of the pirarucu, one of the world’s largest freshwater fish, which live in the waters of the Amazon River. RIGHT Andy Warhol, Flowers Portfolio Monoprints Made from a collage of construction paper in different colors, this monoprint series is from the iconic and incomparable Andy Warhol. 4) David Hockney, A Bigger Book In this gloriously vibrant and oversized Taschen tome, you can explore more than sixty years of Hockney’s work from his teenage days at art school to his more recent portraits and iPad drawings. The Collector’s Edition book is set on a colorful Mark Newsom-designed book stand at the front of the gallery.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 76 ADVENTURE 78 LODGING 82 TRIP PLANNER 84
pg. 78 Forget the kids! Adult summer camps put fun and learning back into the summers of grown-ups.
Chris Wright/She Moves Mountains
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 90
travel spotlight
The Accidental Apiary Field-biologist-turned-beekeeper Matt Allen launched Apricot Apiaries in Kimberly. (photo: Joni Kabana)
A curiosity became a buzzing business written by Joni Kabana TUCKED AWAY on one of the most gorgeous stretches of the North Fork of the John Day River sits a honey stand chock full of honey and wonder. From various seasonal flavors of raw honey to exquisitely crafted beeswax candles to sweet honeystix that can be tucked in your workday pocket, this little hand-built stand is well worth a slow and meandering drive through Eastern Oregon high desert’s sweeping vistas to reach it. After moving to Kimberly in 2009 while splitting his time working as a field biologist in Nevada, Matt Allen purchased two beehives to fulfill his curiosity of insects and biology. Quickly, his hobby turned to obsession and launched Apricot Apiaries to sell not only honey and biproducts, but also queen bees, nucs and pollination services for fruits and nuts. Situated next to Thomas Orchards (another fruit-loving reason to visit this region), Allen’s bees enjoy a plethora of nearby plants and trees. He also places hives in host ranches to expand nuanced flavors and diversify his bee family. Some hives travel as far as California to bask in the sun for almond pollination. Interested in having your own bees? Apricot Apiaries sells nucleus hives and packages for beginner beekeepers. Realizing beekeeping requires steady mentorship, they also host workshops and are available for consultations. Harvest begins in June with a very light wildflower and black locust honey, he said, followed by a slightly darker clover/wildflower honey. July produces a richer, stronger honey. Apricot Apiaries’ main crop comes in August from white sweet clover and alfalfa, Allen said. “As the harvest comes in, we then start rendering beeswax into candles, lotions, and lip balm,” he said. “If you visit the stand, give a shout so we can come out and say hi if we are not out in the field!” Soon visitors will be able to enjoy the sights and sounds of the magnificent John Day River and commune with the bees as Allen finishes building a tiny house for visitor stays. See more at www.apricotapiaries.com. AT RIGHT The handmade honey stand in Kimberly. (photo: Apricot Apiaries)
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PELICAN BREWING AT SILETZ BAY
your new place to experience it all. Cozy up fireside or kick back in the salty air with crisp brews and classic coastal cuisine—straight from the source. From expansive views to strolls on the boardwalk, find your new PNW tradition.
THE BEST OF THE OREGON COAST. IT’S A PELICAN THING.
JOIN US
5911 SE Hwy 101, Lincoln City, Oregon 97367
12:00pm - 10:00pm Daily 541.614.4216
PACIFIC CITY | TILLAMOOK | CANNON BEACH | SILETZ BAY pelicanbrewing.com/pubs
adventure
Adventure
Summer Camps for Adults Five camps, clinics and retreats where you can get unstuck and reach new summits written by Jen Sotolongo
THINK SUMMER CAMP is just for kids? Think again. The adventures and fun don’t have to stop just because you’re an adult. From river rafting to trail running or mountain biking, personal development and rock climbing, there’s a camp for all types of outdoor adventures, from newbies to expert enthusiasts.
Photos: Cog Wild
VARIOUS LOCATIONS
Cog Wild Mountain Biking Camps Based out of Bend, Cog Wild has run multi-day mountain biking trips for intermediate and expert riders in Oregon since 2006. Trips take place in some of the top mountain biking destinations in the state, including the Mt. Hood region, McKenzie River, the Umpqua Valley and Oakridge. Designed for expert riders who don’t mind a little hike-a-bike and big climbs, the three-day Umpqua Trip Timpanogos trip hits some of the favorite trails on the North Umpqua Trail in the Willamette National Forest. The McKenzie and Oakridge trips explore some of the best terrain on these iconic mountain biking trails, while the Mt. Hood region trip highlights the flowy single track in and around Hood River. Each trip includes some meals, camping, shuttles, and plenty of fun and relaxation. Clients can choose from existing adventures or craft their own with the help of the company. 78
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FROM TOP Cog Wild mountain bikers ride Farewell Trail in Bend near Tumalo Falls. Participants sit around a campfire during a multi-day Cog Wild mountain biking and camping trip in the Mckenzie River area.
Dinner Escape Package Enjoy 25% off your overnight stay plus dinner for two, a bottle of wine & breakfast
Book online using Rate Access Code 1859 Valid through 9/28, Sun-Thurs, blackout dates apply.
Plan your wine country getaway to Silverton today at oregongardenresort.com
adventure
OREGON COAST Spend five days in a luxury home on the Oregon Coast with host Marli Williams who runs Camp YES, a retreat geared toward women who are leaders, entrepreneurs, and changemakers to help them unlock their potential and get unstuck. Over the five days of the retreat, guests will be able to disconnect from outside distractions in order to create a vision for their life through various adventures, productive play exercises, and connection with other like-minded women. Activities include playshops, guided hikes, and evening campfires. Lodging and all meals are included.
Photos: Camp YES
Camp YES
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Camp YES, a retreat for female leaders on the Oregon Coast. Camp YES host Marli Williams keeps it lively and inspiring. The fun factor at Camp YES includes slip-and-slides and team egg tosses.
ASHLAND/MEDFORD
Join seasoned ultra-running hosts like Jenn Shelton and Ryan Ghelfi on a threeday raft-supported run along the famed 42-mile Rogue River Trail. Rafts will carry guests’ gear between river camps and lodging, so runners can focus on enjoying the view and getting their miles in for the day. One of the only places in the world to have a system of lodging accessible only by boat or trail, staying in the remote riverside lodges offers a unique experience. Runners of all speeds are welcome, provided they can run between 11-15 miles daily for three days. 80 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
Momentum River Expeditions
Momentum River Expeditions Rogue River Trail Running
Get your miles in on a trail running trip with Momentum River Expeditions.
Northwest Rafting Company Class III Clinic
Marmot/She Moves Mountains
At this five-day rowing school, white water novices will learn to maneuver rafts and navigate water on the Class II and III rapids on the beginner and intermediate-friendly Wild and Scenic Rogue River. Students will learn techniques and safety training from professionally trained river guides. Some basic rowing experience is encouraged, however quick studies are welcome to join if they have the mental and physical fortitude. Trip highlights include camping along the Rogue River, testing a variety of equipment, and learning by navigating your own raft. By the end of the course, students will have gained the skills and confidence to successfully row Class III rapids on multi-day rowing trips. Classes run from May through September.
Learn how to navigate Class III rapids on the Wild and Scenic Rogue River with this five-day summer school.
SMITH ROCK
She Moves Mountains Climbing Retreat Founded at Smith Rock State Park in 2017, She Moves Mountains hosts outdoor-centric retreats and clinics that empower and educate women. The Smith Rock Climb and Yoga retreat offers a four-day guided climbing trip on Smith Rock with afternoon yoga sessions, all meals, and three nights of accommodation at a private home with the option to choose from indoor lodging or glamping and camping. Expert guides will instruct climbers of all levels on the various routes on Smith Rock selecting appropriate routes for varying skills. In addition to the Smith Rock and Yoga retreat, She Moves Mountains also hosts various skills clinics and other backpacking and climbing retreats throughout the west.
Freya Fennwood/She Moves Mountains
ROGUE RIVER
Northwest Rafting Company
adventure
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FROM LEFT She Moves Mountains at Smith Rock State Park in Central Oregon. The camp teaches climbing and yoga in a beautiful setting.
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Photos: Skamania
TREEHOUSES The six treehouses (nine this summer along with some glamping sites) are clustered together in a grove of Douglas fir trees. Note when booking that some are geared for couples and others are family-friendly and can sleep four with one king-size bed and one queen tucked into a nook with large bay windows and tented drapes for a charming camping corner.
FEATURES
Lodging
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A treehouse guest suite at Skamania Lodge in Stevenson, Washington. The treehouses are spacious with a rustic feel. Wind down around a firepit at night. Sleep is not a second thought in the well-appointed tree suites.
Skamania Lodge written by Kerry Newberry MANY ADVENTUROUS travelers are familiar with Skamania, the historic resort that’s set on 175 acres of woodlands in one of the Pacific Northwest’s most magnificent natural spaces. Located in the tiny town of Stevenson, Washington, the 254-room upscale lodge greets guests with a grand 85-foot lobby fireplace and captivating views of the Cascade Mountains and the Columbia River Gorge. But imagination truly comes to life when you stay in one of their elegantly designed treehouses. All six treehouses—which will expand to nine this summer—soar into the forest canopy as high as forty feet in the air. A stylish inside-outside gas fireplace adds warmth to the modern spaces along with cabin-inspired, simple decor that let’s nature star. Decadently spacious with abundant windows, no matter where you turn, you feel immersed in the grove of surrounding Douglas fir trees. Add in thoughtful perks from private fire pits and complementary s’mores kits to numerous outdoorsy activities and each nature-soaked moment tops the next. Above all, it’s the expansive deck overlooking serene evergreens that feels transformative. Perched in the verdant canopy with nothing to be heard but a light breeze rustling the trees and morning birdsong—you’ll find a moment of complete tranquility. Who couldn’t use more of that? 1131 SW SKAMANIA LODGE WAY STEVENSON, WA www.skamania.com
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A utopia for outdoor activities, join Skamania Adventures to soar through the forest on ziplines or test your strength and balance in the aerial park. Next pick from golf, disc golf or the beautiful hiking trails around the lodge. Relax and recharge at the onsite spa where there’s also an indoor heated pool, dry saunas and indoor and outdoor whirlpools—both with gorgeous forest views.
DINING Head to the woodsy main lodge for more formal dining in the grand Cascade Dining Room and find casual pub fare and conviviality around a cozy hearth at the River Rock Lounge. Both spots highlight seasonal Pacific Northwest flavors. On warmer days, check out the Backyard Grill for petfriendly seating on the patio.
AMENITIES Expect luxurious touches like a Smart TV, lounge seating, a king-size bed and a bright and airy full bath with dreamy heated flooring. Other allweather comforts include an indoor/outdoor fireplace, Steven Smith Teamaker blends and pitch-perfect board games— who knew there was a National Parks Edition of Scrabble?
trip planner
Cave Junction
A town built around a dog’s discovery written by James Sinks IS IT southwest Oregon’s Redwood Highway into Cave Junction, or are you following the yellow brick road? Maybe both. The ribbon of asphalt meanders through odd foliage to whimsical art and mystical creatures (and real lions), to where houses float above the ground, to fields of intoxicating flowers, and to where you can gain plenty of courage (at least, the liquid sort). No munchkins—true—but plenty to munch on. And while you won’t find Toto, Dorothy’s trusty companion in The Wizard of Oz, the community owes much to a different famous dog, Bruno. In 1874, Bruno and a hunter named Elijah Davidson were tracking a bear when the dog disappeared behind underbrush. Davidson followed and found himself in the stunning crystallized caverns that now anchor the Oregon Caves National Monument and Preserve. Today tens of thousands of visitors annually roam those same passages to chambers such as the cathedral-like Ghost Room. Designated by President William Howard Taft in 1909 and expanded to include more surrounding acreage in 2014, the magical place— one of just three marble caverns in the National Park system—is a regular waypoint for natural wonder-seeking travelers between the redwoods and Crater Lake.
The caves welcome people from late-March to October and sleepy bats come winter. Before Bruno’s discovery, indigenous Takelma tribes might have known about the caverns, but any oral history didn’t survive combative European settlers and smallpox, said longtime park ranger George Herring, who leads the monument’s education programs. Incorporated in 1948 where the Redwood and Caves highways meet, Cave Junction has ridden the boombust cycles of the mining and timber industries and is now a cannabis-cultivating capital. Some of the farms are even legal. Meanwhile, to keep piquing tourists’ interest, local businesses are always brainstorming, said Ben Filip, who owns Bruno’s Cavern tavern downtown. “Lots of places in Oregon have rivers and outdoor activities, like we do, but other places don’t have caves,” he said. Roughly 2,000 people live in the city, but not in that number is Bigfoot, rumored to reside nearby. If you don’t bump into the hairy beast, you can still snap a selfie with a 7-foottall wooden statue at a Bigfootthemed shopping plaza. Also, grab cones at Yeti’s Ice Cream & Treats before heading to see some lions, tigers and ziplines.
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Oregon Caves National Monument in Southern Oregon is a fascinating tour of the unexepected underworld.
Travel Southern Oregon
trip planner
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Travel Southern Oregon
The famed Out ‘N’ About Treehouse Treesort is a great sleep in the canopy, outside of Cave Junction.
Day GETTING OUTDOORS • WOODWORKING • TREEHOUSES From the four-stoplight community, there’s adventure in pretty much any direction. In other words: You win, no matter what. Travel-weary legs will appreciate stretching at Illinois River Forks State Park, where you can fling discs on the well-maintained frisbee golf course. The sometimes bouncy and always scenic Illinois, which carves a course northward to the Rogue River, helped to shape the valley but it’s not for the meek. With 150 rapids including a doozy of a Class V, running the lower section takes guile, experience and permits. (Why Illinois? The Oregon river got its (other) stately name because folks from the Prairie State were among the earliest to arrive for the lucrative 1850s gold rush.) Looking for a first-day view? From Bolan Lake, twenty-five curvy minutes south, a moderately challenging 3.4-mile out-andback hike leads to a former fire lookout, which burned in 2020. In late spring and early summer, you’ll trek among rainbows of blooms, and on clear days you’ll see the Pacific. A less-sweaty-but-also-visually-appealing climb awaits at It’s a Burl, an art gallery and woodworking collective in Kerby, a former mining town and onetime Josephine County seat. Admire hundreds of funky carvings, from furniture to wine stoppers to carousel horses, hewn from more than a dozen species. Outside, ascend twisting staircases onto tree platforms overlooking the highway. Michael Garnier didn’t fashion himself a pioneer when the midwest Vietnam War veteran moved near Cave Junction, a half 86 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
century ago. That changed after he bought property with a giant oak, and pondered putting up a treehouse. The idea morphed into a bed-and-breakfast in the limbs—and turned him into an inventor of special treehouse-holding bolts. Government inspectors weren’t initially thrilled, and it took years to gain clearance for aerial overnight lodging (during which time people could famously stay if they bought a $100 tshirt). “The controversy might have helped,” said Garnier, smiling under a bottlebrush mustache. Today, several treehouses are available to rent across the valley. At Garnier’s eclectic Out ‘N’ About Treehouse Treesort, you’ll find sixteen legal and unique units—five with bathrooms and some connected with hanging walkways. The tallest is 47 feet up. Guests and nonguests also can soar down ziplines like flying monkeys, ride a 50-foot-high Tarzan swing, or saddle up for horseback rides into the Siskiyou National Forest. The resort also books rafting trips on the Klamath River, which is tamer than the Illinois. Finally, drink in hand and with your feet up, relax on the stone fireplace hearth at Lost Camp Bar & Grill, which recently changed its name from the G Spot bar. It’s now easier to find, and on the menu you’ll find tri-tip or pork “table nachos” for $28—named such because they’ll cover the tabletop. You may need to ask friends to share. As in, every friend you know.
trip planner
Day
Travel Southern Oregon
The comely Illinois River is a great place to dip your feet, fish or paddle.
Travel Southern Oregon
The country roads surrounding Cave Junction are scenic and perfect for a pre-coffee jog. You’ll probably see deer and smell pot—and you’ll definitely get hungry. Happily, the mother-daughter team of Katie Houston and Maggie Millard will dispatch caffeine and carb cravings at their charming Trillium Bakery, where the kolaches sell out quickly and the Hollandaise-happy eggs Benedict lounge on pillowy housemade English muffins. A hand-drawn sign says, unapologetically, “Donut hate me because I’m beautiful.” It’s a good idea to book online in advance for Oregon Caves tours. If you haven’t, grab same-day reservations at the visitor center and gift shop in town. Tickets are $10 for adults and $7 for kids for a 90-minute, illuminated, half-mile tour. For mood lighting, the final tour on some days is by candlelight. And for $45, you’ll be outfitted with coveralls, helmets and lamps to prowl deeper in the 3.8-mile network of tunnels. The marble caves aren’t just cool to see: They’re cold, a steady 44 degrees, so sweaters or jackets will best accompany your sense of wonder at how something so big and beautiful can form so slowly. It can take a thousand years for a stone stalactite to grow by one inch. And you thought it took a long time for InN-Out to arrive in Oregon. The caves also house the country’s only underground Wild and Scenic River. Actually more of a creek, the River Styx helped Elijah Davidson find his way out in 1874 when he ran out of matches, said Herring, the affable and informative park ranger. Outside, you’ll find numerous hiking trails and the historic designated but currently shuttered Oregon Caves Chateau hotel. Built in 1934, it will reopen in 2024 at the soonest after major foundation work, he said. Seven species of bats overwinter in the cave, he said, making it a “hibernacula,” which—let’s face it—sounds a tad bit creepy. “I see. And how many vampires?” I asked.
Christian Heeb/TravelOregon.com
BREAKFAST • CAVES • UNUSUAL PLANTS
ABOVE, FROM TOP Sip the bounty of Southern Oregon viticulture at Bridgeview Winery. Check out the fantastical gallery of burled woodworks at It’s a Burl in Kerby.
“No vampires,” he said. “Are you sure? Like really, really sure?” “Well, I’ve never been attacked.” Some actual bloodsuckers live full-time at Eight Dollar Mountain, a vantage for how the unusual geology of the Illinois Valley—the nutrient-poor soil is known as “serpentine”— means hardy, unusual and out-of-place flora, like high desertsuited pine trees. Down a plank walkway at a U.S. Bureau of Land Management Wayside is a bog filled with darlingtonia, a carnivorous plant that attracts and eats bugs. Darlingtonia are also known as pitcher plants, and if that makes you thirsty for pitchers of adult beverages, options abound. Hop over to Wild River Brewing and Pizza—the first location of a family southern Oregon chain—to find an assortment of ales and IPAs, including in cans and growlers. On historic Holland Loop Road, visit a pair of wineries, Foris and Bridgeview, and sip artisan rum that’s made in a cargo container at Marble Caves Distillery. (Next door at the historic Holland Store, you can grab afternoon Doritos and handguns.) If you end up at Bruno’s Cavern to croon karaoke, don’t miss the flavorful gnarly garlies, dough knots that will keep vampires at bay, just in case. MARCH | APRIL 2023
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 87
EAT Bruno’s Cavern (541) 287-1450
Travel Southern Oregon
CAVE JUNCTION, OREGON
trip planner
Lost Camp Bar & Grill www.facebook.com/ lostcampbarandgrill Taylor’s Sausage Country Store www.taylorsausage.com Trillium Bakery (541) 592-3574 Wild River Brewing and Pizza Co. www.wildriverbrewing.com Yeti’s Ice Cream & Treats www.yetisicecream.com
STAY Bridgeview Winery www.bridgeviewwine.com Kerbyville Inn www.kerbyvilleinn.com Out ‘N’ About Treehouse Treesort www.treehouses.com Vertical Horizons Treehouses www.treehouseparadise.com
PLAY Bigfoot Experience Room www.sobfe.com Bolan Lake Trail #1245 www.fs.usda.gov Eight Dollar Mountain Botanical Wayside www.blm.gov Great Cats World Park www.greatcatsworldpark.com Illinois River Forks State Park www.stateparks.oregon.gov It’s a Burl (541) 592-2141 Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park www.parks.ca.gov Oregon Caves National Monument and Preserve www.recreation.gov Rusk Ranch Nature Center www.ruskranchnaturecenter.org Siskiyou Smokejumper Museum www.siskiyousmokejumper museum.org
FROM LEFT Not far and just over the California border, Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park is a thing of natural wonder. Taylor’s Sausage is an institution of the highest order in Cave Junction.
Day SMOKEJUMPERS • BIG CATS • REDWOODS During World War II, Japanese ships offshore sent thousands of explosive-laden balloons aloft toward the Pacific coast, with a goal of setting forests ablaze. In response, the U.S. Forest Service in 1943 opened one of the nation’s first smokejumper bases at the Illinois Valley airport. (The only deaths on the U.S. mainland from enemy action in the war were caused by one of those balloons, which killed six civilians in Klamath County in 1945.) Now a museum, the former Siskiyou Smokejumper headquarters shows where crews would repair their own parachutes (which presumably made them very good at sewing) and then get dropped into the backcountry to keep small, mostly lightning-caused blazes from growing. The place shut in 1981 to save money—but the cost of fighting nearby mega-fires since, like the 2002 Biscuit Fire, challenges the notion of any savings at all, said Dan Laws, a volunteer whose father was a jumper in the 1970s. Near the airport, winged attractions of a different sort zigzag at the Rusk Ranch Nature Center, home to a summertime butterfly pavilion and hummingbird garden. The kid-friendly place typically opens in May. Since 2005, Great Cats World Park has given feared felines including lions, tigers, cougars and ocelots a safe place where they can sarcastically judge people, mostly passersby who hit the brakes when they see the sign out front. The federally-licensed business isn’t a zoo, but rather a retirement and breeding facility that’s helping keep cat species—many of them
88 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
threatened or worse in the wild—genetically sustainable. Here, you can see 51 happy wildcats purr and eat snacks in sprawling, well-appointed pens. The Asian fishing cat even has a pond. How nice is it? The cougars, Kasa and Whistler, are so spoiled they won’t even eat deer. “Only beef,” said head keeper Farrah Conti. You’ve gotten this close to the soaring redwoods of northern California, so it would be a shame to miss gaping at them. Less than an hour down Highway 199 is California’s lush Jedediah Smith State Park, with 7 percent of the planet’s remaining old growth redwoods. Before putting the gateway to the Oregon Caves in the rear-view mirror, fill up your belly—and perhaps your cooler—at Cave Junction’s most-recommended restaurant, Taylor’s Sausage, where flavorful dogs are just the beginning. The menu is like a carnivore’s Who’s Who, and the retail fridges boast everything from bacon to steak to smoked turkeys. The legendary family-owned company sells its sausages up and down the west coast. Long before moving here in the 1970s, Taylor’s was one of the original tenants in Hollywood’s famed farmers market in the 1930s. Who knows, maybe even stars of The Wizard of Oz ate there. At the end of that timeless story, as Dorothy departs the land beyond the rainbow, she remarks that there’s no place like home. Retracing your way up the Redwood Highway, it might occur to you that there’s also no place like the colorful Cave Junction.
Tualatin Valley Ale Trail
CHEERS!
Whether you like your brews hazy, hoppy, bitter or dark, Oregon’s Tualatin Valley Ale Trail is your passport to more than a dozen craft breweries. Download the ale trail passport today.
Stickmen Brewing Co. Tualatin, Oregon
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Learn more at tualatinvalley.org
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2/13/23 12:43 PM
northwest destination
Boise Big outdoors and a small Basque community make this Idaho locale worth a springtime getaway written by James Sinks WEDNESDAYS AND FRIDAYS on Grove Street in downtown Boise, a line of hungry noontime patrons forms outside the Basque Market, as a giant pan of steaming saffron-seasoned paella simmers on an outdoor stove. The biweekly culinary pilgrimage celebrates the city’s Basque heritage, which traces to the influx of immigrants that began arriving in the 1800s from near the France-Spain border. Initially searching for gold in the West, Basques were sought to tend the huge flocks of hungry sheep that once chomped their way through the surrounding high country and range. Today, the Idaho state capital is home to the continent’s biggest Basque community and, while many cities have Chinatowns, Boise boasts the Basque Block. Roam between former boarding houses and shops, experience authentic Iberian fare like pintxos (think
tapas) and Ansot’s housemade chorizo, and prowl the Basque Museum, which includes a preserved sheepwagon, basically a wooden camper of yesteryear. And that’s all waiting in just one remarkable block. Once a stopover point on the Oregon Trail, Boise is now a too-much-to-see-in-one-trip destination. An hourlong flight or seven-hour drive from Portland, it also ranks among the fastest-growing metro areas in the country. Discover upscale hotels, breweries, distilleries and exciting eateries near the Capitol, and enjoy easy access to a bounty of recreational, cultural and sightseeing options inside the city and out, from hiking and bicycling trails, to a 180-foot-long wall inscribed with human rights quotes at the Idaho Anne Frank Memorial, to a municipal whitewater kayak park, to North America’s largest raptor rookery. And if you need any additional enticement to visit, there’s BACON Boise, a sizzling downtown breakfastbrunch-and-lunch (and bloody Mary) hotspot. True to its name, the place has specialized in an assortment of the salty delicious stuff since opening in 2011, and they sell a lot of it. Like 15 tons in 2022. They also sell hats that say “bacon” on them. Why bacon? “It makes everything good,” said chef and founder John Berryhill in 2020,
The trail networks around Boise make it a mecca for runners and their dogs.
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
Visit Idaho
Discover upscale hotels, breweries, distilleries and exciting eateries near the Capitol, and enjoy easy access to a bounty of recreational, cultural and sightseeing options inside the city and out.
Dream. Explore. Discover.
Take the Road Less Traveled... to our Frontier Communities. Canyon City • Dayville • Granite • John Day • Long Creek Prairie City • Monument • Mt Vernon • Seneca
Grant COUnty ChamBER OF ComMERCE
301 W Main, John Day, OR • 541-575-0547 • www. GCOregonLive.com
Pursuing excellence through fitness 61615 Athletic Club Drive
(541) 385-3062
Photos: Visit Idaho
northwest destination
Serving up paella at The Basque Market in Boise.
in what may have been the understatement of the decade. In the freewheeling Old West, counterfeiters known as “spelterers” in the nearby hills would melt gold dust together with lead filings to make a quick buck. You’ll no longer find those particular outlaws, but their legacy is immortalized in the name of the Bogus Basin ski and recreation area, just 16 curvy miles north of town. Typically open for skiing until mid-April, the resort sports seven chairlifts and 23 miles of nordic trails, and hiking, biking and an alpine coaster come summer. For year-round downhill thrills, rent boards and slide down the nation’s largest freestanding sand dune—at 470-feet above the surrounding desert—a half-hour southeast at Bruneau Dunes State Park. Weekend nights from April to October, the park’s observatory lets you peer through telescopes into Idaho’s famously dark night sky. You also can look upward and see an estimated 700 nesting pairs of residents in the Morley Nelson Snake River Birds of Prey National Conservation Area, established by Congress in 1993, and springtime is the best season to do it. The birds nest in crags and float in thermal updrafts, and can be viewed 92 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
BOISE, IDAHO
northwest destination
EAT Ansot’s www.ansots.com BACON www.baconboise.com Bardenay www.bardenay.com Basque Market www.thebasquemarket.com Bittercreek Alehouse www.bittercreekalehouse.com Boise Fry Co. www.boisefrycompany.com Fork www.boisefork.com Press & Pony www.pressandpony.com Westside Drive In www.westsidedrivein.com
STAY Anniversary Inn www.anniversaryinn.com Grove Hotel www.grovehotelboise.com Inn at 500 Capitol www.innat500.com
PLAY BOTTOM LEFT Bogus Basin Mountain Recreation Area offers mountain biking for many levels. AT LEFT Gorgeous views at Bruneau Dunes State Park. ABOVE, FROM TOP Local bounty in a pretty array at Fork in Boise. A hawk at The Peregrine Fund’s World Center for Birds of Prey.
Basque Block www.thebasqueblock.com Bogus Basin Mountain Recreation Area www.bogusbasin.org Boise River Greenbelt www.cityofboise.org
from the Dedication Point overlook at the rim of the river canyon or below from a network of hiking and biking routes. The riverbank trail system can be accessed downstream at Celebration Park, the state’s only archaeological park, which also is home to petroglyphs carved by the indigenous tribes that roamed the region for thousands of years. Rather stay nested in town to see big birds? Meet condors and raptors up close at The Peregrine Fund’s World Center for Birds of Prey. Or ready for vino? Wineries in the up-and-coming Snake River Valley American Viticulture Area specialize in varietals that thrive in the summer heat. And if Idaho makes you dream of potatoes—at least, more than you usually
do—order them many ways at Boise Fry Co. or try the renowned poutine at Bittercreek Alehouse. Ice cream potatoes (actually vanilla ice cream rolled in cocoa powder) await at the venerable Westside Drive-in. And for fresh Northwest fare, explore the #LoyaltoLocal menu at farm-to-table restaurant Fork. Finally, to bask in your bird, bacon, and Basque adventures, saunter to swanky downtown bar Press & Pony. Enter through the thick stage curtains off Idaho Street, and ask the barkeep for the “Pick your Poison,” a personal cocktail crafted based on your libation preference. Maybe spicy, surprising or exotic. And just like Boise, flavorful, bold and eminently memorable. MARCH | APRIL 2023
Bruneau Dunes State Park www.parksandrecreation.idaho.gov Celebration Park www.canyoncounty.id.gov/project/ celebration-park Idaho Anne Frank Human Rights Memorial www.annefrankmemorial.org Snake River Valley wineries www.sunnyslopewinetrail.com Whitewater Park www.boisewhitewaterpark.com World Center for Birds of Prey www.peregrinefund.org/visit
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 93
1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
Eugene Springfield
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Ontario
Bend Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
24 Go Wild: American Adventures
52 Wallowa Mountains
76
Apricot Apiaries
25 Local Ocean
54 University of Oregon
78
Momentum River Expeditions
26 Oregon Seaweed
56 Poison Waters
82
Skamania Lodge
34 Mildred Hall
58 Owyhee Canyonlands
84
Oregon Caves National Monument & Preserve
90
Boise, Idaho
46 Sitka Center for Art and Ecology
94 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2023
Remember the last time your family visited the forest? It’s a place of wonder and imagination for the whole family—where stories come to life. And it’s closer than you think. Sounds like it’s time to plan your next visit. Make the forest part of your story today at a local park near you or find one at DiscoverTheForest.org.
Until Next Time Surfing at sunset in Pacific City. photo by Mike Wilson
Continue for Special Insert
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Scan Scan to to learn learn about about golf golf packages packages https://bbr-or.com/golf-pkg2023 https://bbr-or.com/golf-pkg2023
866-242-5532 866-242-5532 BlackButteRanch.com BlackButteRanch.com
m m
FROM THE GREEN
F
ACE EAST if you want to improve your golf game. Practices of Eastern medicine and spirituality are increasingly practiced among golfers to find inner calm and a more focused game. After Phil Mickelson came back to win the PGA Championship in 2021 sixteen years after he had won his first Championship, he cited meditation as his new edge in competition. Likewise, in 2019, Rory McIlroy said guided meditation every night helped him sleep better before golf matches. Long before Mickelson and McIlroy were on top of any leaderboard, Jack Nicklaus, himself, was practicing visualization to improve his game. While it’s true that in a game of inches the smallest things matter. Sometimes those small differences can come from a club, a grip change, a swing modification. Increasingly golfers are looking inward to make progress. New ideas behind how we learn, think, even breathe are subtle but playing out with great effect.
LEVEL UP
YOUR GOLF GAME USING MINDFULNESS AND VISUALIZATION TO TAKE YOUR SKILLS TO NEW HEIGHTS
A publication of Statehood Media www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com Cover: The Coeur d’Alene Resort Golf Course (photo: Visit Idaho)
Wildhorse Resort Golf Course (photo: Wildhorse Resort & Casino) 2023 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 3
FROM THE GREEN
RELEARNING BREATHING FOR BEST RESULTS It may seem odd to say that we have forgotten how to breathe. But being more mindful of how we’re breathing and when we’re breathing is exactly what golfers are thinking about as they progress from tee to green. Golf Digest recalls Phil Mickleson’s 2021 PGA Championship win and cites his breathing as a differentiator. “If you watched the final round, you’ll notice two things. One is he was very deliberate about breathing, but what they didn’t see was he was very deliberate about breathing out,” said Dr. Ara Suppiah, a medical adviser to Mickelson and a Golf Digest contributor who also works with a number of PGA Tour players. “So what [Mickelson] did was he took a breath in and then he breathed out really slowly. And as you breathe out you’ll notice your pulse change. So breathing is intimately connected to the heartbeat.” Breath is the single factor that sets apart the top performers in any athletic discipline from the rest, Craig Perkins, founder of the Yandara Yoga Institute, observed in Natural Awakenings in 2016. “If we want to master our game, whether it’s golf, yoga or chess, we must first and foremost master our mind.” In his practice, Perkins uses breath work to help golfers focus and optimize their swings. Golf ’s longtime Zen champion, Dr. Joe Parent, whose books include Zen Golf and Zen Putting among others, is more succinct: “The practice is simple: place your attention on the feeling of your breath coming in and going out. You can count the breaths if that helps you stay focused. When you realize that your mind wandered into a daydream, you are already ‘awake’ and back in the present. Just smile, acknowledge wandering mind, and reconnect to your posture and breathing.” To begin practicing your own breath techniques, try this regimen from Dr. Deborah Graham, Breathing for Better Golf.
“IF WE WANT TO MASTER OUR GAME, WHETHER IT’S GOLF, YOGA OR CHESS, WE MUST FIRST AND FOREMOST MASTER OUR MIND.” — Craig Perkins, founder of the Yandara Yoga Institute
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DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2023
DEEP BREATHING EXERCISES FOR GOLF Take a few minutes daily to practice the following steps, keeping in mind the points just described.
gentle rhythm of your breathing while relaxing your chest and abdomen.
1. Lie or sit in a comfortable position and place your left hand on your chest and your right hand on your abdomen.
8. Continue feeling the gentle rhythm of your breathing while relaxing your legs and arms.
2. Inhale slowly and deeply into your abdomen, gently pushing your right hand up only as much as feels comfortable. Your left hand on your chest should move only a little and only with your abdomen.
9. When ready, gently stretch, rise and resume your day.
3. At the top of your breath, pause slightly and hold for a moment. 4. Slowly exhale allowing your right hand and abdomen to gently return to the original level. 5. Continue your gentle deep breaths, slowly inhaling and exhaling. Let yourself enjoy the soft rhythm of movement as the air gently flows in and out of your lungs. 6. Continue feeling the gentle rhythm of your breath with your hands as you also feel your throat soften and your face relax. 7. Continue feeling the
Try to set aside at least 5 to 10 minutes for your golf breathing exercises every day. When you begin to feel comfortable with abdominal breathing while lying down, progress to practicing while sitting. Next, proceed to practicing while standing. When you feel ready, practice at various moments during your day—especially when you tend to feel tension the most. Again, concentrate on the gentle movement of the abdomen, the air moving smoothly and rhythmically in and out of your lungs, and on the feeling of relaxation that each deep breath gives you. When you have learned to effectively breathe deeply, it will provide a very reliable and efficient method for quickly relaxing your body and quieting your mind in even the most challenging situations.
Crosswater
Play at a Pacific Northwest golf destination where outdoor escapades, dozens of craft breweries and mouthwatering cuisine will fuel your game. Swing at three of Golf Digest’s Top-100 Courses: Crosswater, Tetherow and Pronghorn, plus nearly 30 more along the Central Oregon Golf Trail. Make a game plan at CentralOregonGolfTrail.com
EXPLORE THE GOLF TRAIL
FROM THE GREEN
TRY THIS VISUALIZATION EXERCISE FROM GOLF STATE OF MIND Imagine playing a chip shot from about 3 yards off the green. You’ve got about 30 feet of green to work with and most of it is down-hill right to left. The pin is out. Assess the shot and play it in your mind. See everything about it. Now answer these questions: 1. How far onto the green did the ball land? 2. Did you have an exact landing spot picked out? 3. How high was it? 4. What speed did the ball have?
VISUALIZATION BRIDGES DREAM AND REALITY By now, we’ve all seen World Cup skiers on television, eyes closed and moving their heads with each turn—visualizing the downhill course just beneath them. Visualization— the act of mentally pre-playing a successful outcome—has become common among top athletes across the world of sports. U.S. Ski Team’s Mikaela Shiffrin told The New York Times before the 2014 Winter Olympics that she visualizes courses once after she inspects them and another time just before her run. “Sometimes eyes closed, sometimes eyes open,” she said, “but I’m always kind of zoned out.” Team USA’s research notes that physical and psychological reactions in certain situations can be improved with visualization. This imagery, when repeated, can “build experience and confidence in an athlete’s ability to perform certain skills under pressure, or in a variety of possible situations,”
6
DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2023
Team USA’s research on its website notes. “The most effective visualization techniques result in a very vivid sport experience in which the athlete has complete control over a successful performance and a belief in this new ‘self.’” Jack Nicklaus was an early proponent of visualization in golf. Nicklaus’ put even his practice shots through a visualization test. “Never hit a shot, not even in practice, without having a very sharp, in-focus picture of it in your head,” Nicklaus is widely quoted as having said. “First see the ball where you want it to finish, nice and white and sitting up high on the bright green grass. Then the scene quickly changes, and you see the ball going there; its path, trajectory, shape, even its behavior on landing. Then there is a sort of fade-out, and the next scene shows you making the kind of swing that will turn the previous images into reality.”
5. How did it roll to the hole? (the line to the hole once it started rolling) 6. Did it go in? 7. Did it barely make it or did it hit in the back of the hole and bounce in? BONUS QUESTION: What did you look like as you were playing the shot? Don’t forget to breathe! Learn more: www.golfstateofmind.com
POWERED POWER RED BY NATURE NATU URE
YOUR UN-FORE-GETTABLE E GOLFING ADVENTURE AWAITS YOU ON THE STUNNING SOUTHERN OREGON COAST. TEE IT HIGH, LET IT FLY!
SCAN. FIND. GO. TRAVELCURRYCOAST.COM
TEE UP
WHERE THE
PROS PLAY
AUGUST 14-20
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- Golf Digest
TWO GOLF COURSES Play Wildhorse Resort Golf Course and the Golf Course at Birch Creek, just minutes away south of Pendleton.
VEGAS-STYLE GAMING
FINE DINING
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Award-Winning Golf Courses are in Our Nature Discover the perfect pairing of award-winning golf and stunning natural surroundings at Sunriver Resort. Graced with carefully preserved wetlands, evergreen forests and breathtaking meadows, our four courses offer an unforgettable experience for golfers of all skill levels.
Plan your next great golf adventure at SunriverResort.com /Golf
WHERE TO PLAY
WHERE TO PLAY
Silvies Valley Ranch (photo: Silvies Valley Ranch)
OREGON ALPINE MEADOWS www.golfalpinemeadows.com Enterprise, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,072 $20-$47
CHEHALEM GLENN www.chehalemglenn.com Newberg, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,062 $29-$40
EAGLE CREST RESORT www.eagle-crest.com Redmond, Oregon Length from back tees: varies by course
10
GLAZE MEADOW AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH www.blackbutteranch.com/golf Sisters, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,007 $47-$82
INDIAN CREEK GOLF COURSE www.indiancreekgolf.com Hood River, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,261 $35-$59
OAK KNOLL GOLF COURSE www.oakknollgolf.org Ashland, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,047 $20-$24
DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2023
OLD MACDONALD www.bandondunesgolf.com Bandon, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,944 $50-$335
RUNNING Y RANCH RESORT www.runningy.com Klamath Falls, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,138 $55-$95
SALISHAN GOLF LINKS www.salishan.com Gleneden Beach, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,470 $39-$99
SILVIES VALLEY RANCH www.silvies.us Seneca, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,170 $75-$175
SUNRIVER RESORT www.sunriverresort.com Sunriver, Oregon Length from back tees: varies by course
TETHEROW www.tetherow.com Bend, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,293 $50-$190
*Note: Course lengths are given in yards
WHERE TO PLAY
Tetherow (photo: Jonathan Kingston/Tetherow) 2023 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 11
WHERE TO PLAY
WASHINGTON APPLE TREE RESORT www.appletreeresort.com Yakima, Washington Length from back tees: 6,961 $52-$79 Salish Cliffs Golf Club (photo: Brian Oar/ Salish Cliffs Golf Club)
STAY & PLAY CASINOS KALISPEL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB NORTHERN QUEST RESORT & CASINO www.kalispelgolf.com Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,663 Packages start at $149 (overnight plus one round of golf for two)
SALISH CLIFFS GOLF CLUB LITTLE CREEK CASINO RESORT www.little-creek.com Shelton, Washington Length from back tees: 7,269 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $75-$139
SWINOMISH GOLF LINKS SWINOMISH CASINO & LODGE www.swinomishcasinoandlodge.com Anacortes, Washington Length from back tees: 6,177 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $21-$38
BEAR MOUNTAIN RANCH www.bearmtgolf.com Chelan, Washington Length from back tees: 7,231 $50-$100
GAMBLE SANDS www.gamblesands.com Brewster, Washington Length from back tees: 7,169 $60-$95
THE GOLF CLUB AT NEWCASTLE www.newcastlegolf.com Newcastle, Washington (Bellevue) Length from back tees: 7,024 $80-$165
THE HOME COURSE www.thehomecourse.com DuPont, Washington Length from back tees: 7,424 $24-$49
INDIAN CANYON GOLF COURSE www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/indian-canyon Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,255 $20-$49
Prospector Golf Course (photo: Greg Sweney Productions)
PALOUSE RIDGE GOLF CLUB
THE RESORT AT PORT LUDLOW
www.palouseridge.com Pullman, Washington Length from back tees: 7,308 $61-$109
www.portludlowresort.com Port Ludlow, Washington Length from back tees: 6,861 $30-$55
PROSPECTOR GOLF COURSE AT SUNCADIA
WINE VALLEY GOLF CLUB
www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort Cle Elum, Washington Length from back tees: 7,100 $64-$139
www.winevalleygolfclub.com Walla Walla, Washington Length from back tees: 7,600 $80-$155
WILDHORSE RESORT GOLF COURSE WILDHORSE RESORT & CASINO www.wildhorseresort.com/ resort/golf Pendleton, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,112 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $45-$55
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DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2023
IDAHO THE COEUR D’ALENE RESORT GOLF COURSE www.cdaresort.com/play/golf Coeur d’Alene, Idaho Length from back tees: 7,189 $79-$99
PRIEST LAKE GOLF COURSE www.plgolfcourse.com Priest Lake, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,200 $22-$56
TRAIL CREEK GOLF COURSE www.sunvalley.com Sun Valley, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,968 $85-$179 *Note: Course lengths are given in yards
Spacious and well-appointed guestrooms at The Lodge
Equestrian trails, hiking, biking, and seasonal activities
Extended stay vacation rentals
Seasonal outdoor pools, indoor pool and hot tub
Three onsite dining options
Only 18 miles from downtown Bend
Three golf courses and putting green
Curious? Experience the views and victories for yourself! Book your rounds now for the best times and rates at Tetherow in Bend, Oregon. On-site lodging includes a 50-room hotel and 40 vacation rental homes with access to resort amenities.
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