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Cucumber Basil Martini
The Agrarian Grange Culture
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May | June 2019
Best Places to
BEST PLACES
RETIRE
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LIVE
THINK
EXPLORE
OREGON
May | June
volume 57
HIKE
Rake It ’Til You Make It photography by Joe Kline This summer, make a beeline to Bandon’s Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint to see the work of Denny Dyke, an artist whose medium is the sand between your toes. He regularly rakes and scrapes the sand to create unique labyrinths that will be swept out with the tide, and invites the public to groom the paths, walk the labyrinth and meditate. (pg. 74)
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Circles in the Sand team members and volunteers groom and outline a labyrinth at Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint in Bandon. MAY | JUNE 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 3
FEATURES MAY | JUNE 2019 • volume 57
68
74
Rooted in Agriculture
Circles in the Sand
The grange movement of the late 1800s gave rural communities a voice. Today, it’s trying to— and in Oregon, succeeding—adapt and survive.
Take a walk through the labyrinths built along the Bandon coastline and learn more about the man who creates them, just to watch them wash away with the tide.
written by Katie Chamberlain
photography by Joe Kline
Oregon’s Best Places to Retire This state is full of great places to call home. When you retire, we’ve got six options you may not have considered. written by Lee Lewis Husk
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Austin Smith/Bear Boot Productions
60
DEPARTMENTS
LIVE 16 NOTEBOOK
MAY | JUNE 2019 • volume 57
We’ve got the best ways to get your summer started, from ready-to-go cocktails to great places to see a music show statewide.
22 FOOD + DRINK
Put your money where your mouth is—we’ve got a list of breweries that take conservation seriously. Next, we’ve got all your breakfast needs covered with lists for must-try doughnut shops and brunching in style.
28 FARM TO TABLE
Sam Ortega/Portland Timbers
Oregon strawberry season is a rite of passage throughout the state, but nowhere more than at Columbia Farms on Sauvie Island. U-pick away, then use those sweet treats in our Oregon recipes.
42
36 HOME + DESIGN
If you dream of living outside all summer long, this West Linn home’s outdoor pavilion will have you making plans.
42 MIND + BODY
If there’s a better place to be come summer than at Providence Park with the Timbers Army, we don’t know it. We caught up with star midfielder Sebastián Blanco, who loves the army and Portland.
44 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
At Crow’s Shadow Institute of the Arts, printmaking is a dance between artist and printmaker, and the product is well worth the challenge.
THINK 50 STARTUP
In a tiny garage in Bend, Tosch Roy is making quality technical backpacks that will propel you to new adventures. Bonus: they’re beautiful.
52 WHAT’S GOING UP
Visit three new breweries opening around the state.
54 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
The Lincoln County Historical Society not only saved a historic mansion, it made it a gathering place for the community.
56 MY WORKSPACE David L. Reamer
28
Yo Soy Candle owner Leslie Abrams wants you to take a deep breath, relax and get mindful.
18 12 13 102 104
Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
58 GAME CHANGER
Every outdoor enthusiast has a pile of old gear sitting around. Cairn and The Gear Fix in Bend are teaming up to help clear it out and get it to new adventurers.
EXPLORE 84 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Once a year, Sel’s Brewery swings its saloon doors wide and welcomes visitors to this historic spot in Canyon City.
86 ADVENTURE
We enlisted the help of an expert guide to find some of the best places for rock climbing around the state.
90 LODGING
Sheltered Nook in Bay City makes tiny-house living look very appealing.
92 TRIP PLANNER COVER
photo by Justin Myers Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor (see Oregon’s Best Places to Retire, pg. 60)
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We started in Gearhart and ended in Garibaldi, traversing the coast for good food, great views and fun activities. We found them all.
98 NORTHWEST DESTINATION
Don’t sleep on Washington’s Tri-Cities, which are closer to wine country and incredible history than you might imagine.
INSPIRED
Mount Baker Wilderness Area
BE INSPIRED by the breathtaking natural beauty of Whatcom County. SPRING outdoors to visit the local Farmers Markets, taste your way along the Tap Trail, or enjoy adventures by land and sea.
Alaska Ferry from Bellingham
Schooner Zodiac
@BellinghamExperience
bellingham.org
CONTRIBUTORS
JOE KLINE Photographer Circles in the Sand
THOMAS BOYD Photographer Rooted in Agriculture
LEE LEWIS HUSK Writer Oregon’s Best Places to Retire
PETER MADSEN Writer Adventure
It takes a few hours of work, but when Denny Dyke and his team are done they have transformed the blank canvas of an Oregon beach into a temporary, interactive, one-ofa-kind work of art. There is a perspective shift from walking the path of the labyrinth on the beach and taking in the intricate details etched in sand, to the cliffs above where the entire design blends into the oceanscape. And then, as the sun set and the tide swept in, the labyrinth washed away, leaving nothing but another blank canvas of sand. (pg. 74)
As a native Oregonian growing up on the coast, I’m no stranger to the idea of a local grange as a focal point. I grew up bucking hay, salmon fishing and having pancake breakfasts at the grange. Jay Sexton embodies the great Oregonians I grew up admiring—hard-working, community-oriented, with a strong appreciation for those who came before us. And that’s what the idea of a grange is all about for me—creating a sense of place and community in rural Oregon. It turns out this assignment is right in my wheelhouse. (pg. 68)
Being of a certain age myself, I’ve wondered how people decide where to retire. I’m staying put in Bend, a haven for people seeking outdoor nirvana, great medical care and a robust arts and culture scene. But the sticking point in Bend, and in many places around Oregon, is the cost and availability of housing. This issue highlights some of the state’s best places to go when the leisure years finally come, even though finding a home may be more challenging than deciding whether to go paddling or stay in and binge on Netflix. (pg. 60)
When I began writing about the outdoors, I found it an immense relief to learn I didn’t need to be the expert on any particular topic—but I did need to know which expert to turn to. For this issue’s piece on climbing destinations, I tapped Cliff Agocs, a certified rock guide and co-owner of Timberline Mountain Guides. I met Agocs a few winters ago when I reported on his crew’s ice-climbing excursion at Paulina Falls. (pg. 86)
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THE COAST YOU REMEMBER 1-800-COAST44 / DISCOVERNEWPORT.COM
EDITOR Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
HOME GROWN CHEF BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Aaron Opsahl
Cindy Guthrie Jenn Redd Thor Erickson Jeremy Storton
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Katie Chamberlain, Melissa Dalton, Beau Eastes, Lee Lewis Husk, Catie Joyce-Bulay, Joni Kabana, Peter Madsen, Miki Markovich, Ben McBee, Sophia McDonald, Ben Salmon, Jen Stevenson, Lori Tobias
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Thomas Boyd, Charlotte Dupont, Joni Kabana, Joe Kline, Robin Loznak, Ben McBee, David L. Reamer, Caleb Thomas, Austin White
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Esther Loopstra
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Opening Summer 2019
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DOES ANYONE RETIRE anymore, or just begin doing something new after decades in the same suit? If doing something new involves Oregon and the outdoors, we have culled six places across the state for your next phase. These are places for quiet reflection for readers and writers, and venues for adventure in the outdoors. In Oregon’s Best Places to Retire on page 60, we reveal places that skew from incognito on the coast to wine warrens and suburban chic. There was no one better to research and write this piece than Lee Lewis Husk, an Oregon native in the retirement demographic who has an active travel gene. If crimping in style is your chalk bag, we’ve tethered to climbing guide Cliff Agocs (real name, Cliff Agocs) to give us his top four climbing spots in the state. The American Mountain Guidescertified Agocs takes us to Central Oregon, the Willamette Valley and Southern Oregon for his top picks for getting on rock in Oregon (page 86). While you’re out wanderlusting, range a little farther and up to Tri-Cities to see a monolithic piece of American history, the Hanford site national park—the secret bulwarks of the Manhattan Project fill in missing data from our collective history education. We found there’s now many more reasons to visit the area as we launch from The Lodge at Columbia Point on the upper reach of the Columbia River. Turn to Northwest Destination on page 98. Music writer Ben Salmon brings together his thoughts on the best places to catch a live music act in Oregon, including a former public school in Baker City repurposed as an arts incubator and concert venue. There’s one of my favorites, the Britt Pavilion, where you can find a seat or grass and bring your own food or buy it at the venue. I wish more venues took Britt’s laissez faire Oregonian approach to live shows. Built around rural agrarian culture, granges were founded by a Minnesotan farmer in 1867. Oregon has 167 of these
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Jenn Redd
FROM THE EDITOR
rural community magnets that are part of a larger national organization whose mission of promoting local foods remains intact 150 years later. Using Marys River Grange in Philomath as our focal point, we take a peek into the sustaining culture of rural America today. (See Rooted in Agriculture, page 68.) Finally, in life, there is balance and the candles that make that more achievable. From her basement studio in NW Portland, Leslie Abrams creates the foundation for life balance one candle at a time. Go in studio at Yo Soy Candle (pg. 56) and find your new balance. If that doesn’t do it for you, we’ve cited new brewpubs to check out on page 52. Cheers!
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have a photo that shows off your oregon experience? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll win 1859 gear and a chance to be published here. www.1859oregonmagazine. com/postcard photo by Jack Strang The Cascades at sunset.
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GEAR UP Show off your state pride with 1859 T-shirts, hoodies, tote bags and more from our online shop. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/shop
MAY | JUNE 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 13
NOTEBOOK 16 FOOD + DRINK 22 FARM TO TABLE 28 HOME + DESIGN 36 MIND + BODY 42
pg. 26 Eem serves up “smoked meats and vacation drinks” in North Portland.
Jordan Hughes
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 44
Think you know Rogue Valley Manor?
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1200 Mira Mar Ave., Medford, OR 97504 541-857-7214 • retirement.org/rvm
Rogue Valley Manor is a Pacific Retirement Services community and an equal housing opportunity.
notebook
Tidbits + To-dos
Cascade Armory Hats Look stylish the old-school ski town way all Bendites have mastered. Top off that Patagonia ensemble with a quilted snapback from Cascade Armory. Bonus—show your support for a small business that believes it’s being unfairly targeted by Under Armour for trademark infringement and brand confusion. There’s nothing confusing about this gear company—it’s brilliant and perfectly Bend. www.cascadearmory.com
Blithe & Bonny Hand Cream Based in Happy Valley, Blithe & Bonny combines environmental responsibility with impeccable taste, and the result is a line of bath, body and home products that smell great and won’t hurt your skin. Try the parabenfree almond and shea hand cream for a rich addition to your skincare lineup.
ca mar le k yo nd ur ar
www.blitheandbonny.com
Rhododendron Festival Every year in Florence, a celebration of the ubiquitous rhododendron takes over the city during the third weekend of May. A display of hundreds of the plants is just the start—there’s a car show, a 5K and a carnival. The 112th annual Rhododendron Floral Parade is a must-see, and keep your eyes peeled for Queen Rhododendra. This festival has been around almost as long as Portland’s Rose Festival. www.florencechamber.com
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camark le you nd r ar
Cannon Beach Sandcastle Contest
ca mark le you nd r ar
For fifty-five years, Cannon Beach has hosted a sandcastle contest, drawing people from all over the world to watch and participate in this incredibly popular event. Teams of professionals, as well as families and groups of amateurs create giant and elaborate sand sculptures on June 8, and visitors can also check out a Saturday night beach bonfire with live music and a 5K on Sunday morning. www.cannonbeach.org
Straightaway Bottled Cocktails Those who have waited twenty minutes for a carefully crafted cocktail know the best things in life can take a little time. But maybe there’s an easier way—Straightaway Cocktails offers immediate, and delicious, gratification with its cocktails in a bottle. From the Oregon Old-Fashioned (rye, simple syrup and filbert and fir bitters) to The Cosmos (vodka aged with citruses and mixed with a housemade cranberry shrub), all you’ll need to do is open and pour—ice not included. www.straightawaycocktails.com
Oregon Bach Festival Every year for fifty years, the Oregon Bach Festival has been bringing Johann Sebastian Bach’s masterworks and those of other composers to the masses in Eugene. Starting June 28 and running through midJuly, you’ll find many concerts, family events and educational opportunities. Special this year is Bach in Motion, a collaboration between the University of Oregon Chamber Choir, the Oregon Bach Festival Orchestra and DanceAbility International that will bring dance to Bach’s works. www.oregonbachfestival.org
MAY | JUNE 2019
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Musician
Find Your Favorite
Oregon’s best places to catch live music written by Ben Salmon
FOR LOVERS OF LIVE MUSIC, Oregon has no shortage of must-visit destinations. Here are just a few of the best spots to catch a concert across the state. WILLAMETTE VALLEY
Sam Bond’s Garage, Eugene Eugene’s a distinctive town, and few places embody it quite like this cozy corner bar in the funky Whiteaker district. For twenty-five years, Sam Bond’s has been an excellent place to get some grub, down a pint or two, and settle in for that evening’s entertainment, whether it’s a touring rock band, a bluegrass pickin’ session or the Sunday afternoon Irish jam. It’s open to anyone, because at Sam Bond’s, everyone’s welcome. That’s why Esquire called this place the “family room of one of the weirdest neighborhoods in America.” Also check out: • Sokol Blosser Winery, Dayton • Cuthbert Amphitheater, Eugene
PORTLAND AREA
Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall Broadway, which bisects downtown Portland, was home to a number of large theaters in the mid-20th century. Now, only “The Schnitz” remains. The grand hall is home to the Oregon Symphony and is easily spotted, thanks to its bright “Portland” sign that towers over the intersection of Broadway and Main Street. Make no mistake: The Schnitz is not some outdated museum piece. It hosts scores of events each year, including films, dance performances, conferences and concerts of all styles.
Doug Fir Lounge Nestled in the heart of Portland’s hip East Burnside area, this “rustic chic” bar hosts a wide variety of bands in its often chilly basement, where the walls are lined with the massive milled logs that give the place its name. The acoustics down here are almost perfect, which makes the music particularly enjoyable, whether it’s being made by a popular local band or a fast-rising indie artist. (Bonus tip: Arrive early and eat in the restaurant upstairs. The meatloaf is excellent.) Also check out: • Oregon Zoo’s Summer Concerts • Mississippi Studios • Pickathon festival, Pendarvis Farm in Happy Valley • Horning’s Hideout, North Plains
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SOUTHERN OREGON
Britt Pavilion, Jacksonville One of Oregon’s musical crown jewels can be found in tiny Jacksonville, where the Britt Music & Arts Festival hosts dozens of concerts each summer at a tree-ringed natural amphitheater on the estate of 19th century photographer Peter Britt. The event’s small-town atmosphere and beautiful surroundings are certainly a draw, but its lineup is even more impressive, bringing big names such as Willie Nelson, Brandi Carlile, Buena Vista Social Club and The Decemberists to Jacksonville, as well as a slate of top-shelf orchestral performances. Also check out: • Ashland Armory
CENTRAL OREGON
Sisters Folk Festival Unless there’s wildfire smoke in the air, September in Sisters is glorious. That’s especially true on Folk Fest weekend, when rootsy music and welcoming smiles fill the small town’s coffee shops, restaurants, art spaces and parks. There’s plenty of acoustic folk, sure, but you’ll also find country, blues, American, world beat, rock and beyond, all within easy walking or biking distance. Also check out: • Les Schwab Amphitheater, Bend • Tower Theatre, Bend
COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE
The Ruins, Hood River Sometimes live music sprouts in the most unusual places. The Ruins sits on the eastern tip of downtown Hood River, and its name is not meant to be ironic: The century-old onetime pear cannery burned in the 1950s, all but destroying half the building. But no one got around to tearing down the walls left behind, and now concerts by local, regional and nationally touring artists are a Tuesday night tradition. EASTERN OREGON
Churchill School, Baker City Built in 1923, this former public school is now experiencing a rebirth as an arts incubator and concert venue, thanks to the restoration work of local couple Brian and Corrine Vegter and their army of volunteers. The stout brick building not only hosts indie artists such as Telekinesis and Matt Hopper, it’s also on the National Register of Historic Places. Also check out: • Elgin Opera House, Elgin FROM TOP Freddy & Francine performs during the Sisters Folk Festival in 2018 (photo: Rob Kerr/Sisters Folk Festival). Tango Alpha Tango at The Ruins in Hood River (photo: Roderick Allen Photography). Britt Fest in Jacksonville takes place in a natural amphitheatre (photo: Al Case, Ashland Daily Photo).
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Bibliophile
The Gift of Hope John Sibley Williams talks Oregon, fatherhood and looking political issues straight in the eye interview by Gina Williams
PROLIFIC OREGON POET John Sibley Williams is known for accessible yet lyrical work that explores our challenging and changing world. His newest book, As One Fire Consumes Another, won this year’s Orison Poetry Prize and was released in April. He is also the author of Disinheritance and Controlled Hallucinations. His collection Skin Memory won this year’s University of Nebraska Press Backwaters Prize. A nineteen-time Pushcart Prize nominee, he also serves as editor of The Inflectionist Review and works as a teacher and literary agent. He lives in Portland with his partner, twin toddlers and a Boston terrier. What was the seed for your third book of poetry, As One Fire Consumes Another? Although much of my work touches upon cultural and political concerns subtly implied within intimate interpersonal situations, this collection brings these themes to the forefront in a way that often made me uncomfortable. I found myself questioning not just my country, culture and history but nearly everything that defines me. I struggled to faithfully explore the extent of my personal privilege as a white, cis, ablebodied male whose labors and strains are so trifling compared to others. I struggled when writing about my family, especially when interrogating my lineage. I wanted to stare guilt and complicity square in the eye. So I guess the seed of this collection was a need to explore my part in my country’s current and historical failures … and its triumphs.
few belongings that mattered and made my way west. Something about Oregon kept tugging at me, so I decided to take the risk and start a new life out here. Luckily, this wonderful state opened its arms to me right away, and I became part of a few incredible poetry communities within a month. Then I met my future wife. And I’ve never looked back. Oregon is astoundingly beautiful, diverse and welcoming. It has influenced my writing in innumerable ways. As I write about all sorts of landscapes and peoples, these influences have been subtle. It’s more a matter of opening my mind to possibilities and my lungs to the kind of fresh, free air that works as a constant inspiration. As One Fire Consumes Another explores the place where “transcendent vision and trenchant social insight meet, wrestle, and end up revitalizing one another.” Is this the place where accessible poetry like yours offers readers the gift of hope? Can poetry serve as a life ring in times of upheaval? Although this may sound cliché and sentimental, I believe all poetry, regardless of subject matter, offers readers the gift of hope. When we are
You’re originally from Massachusetts. What brought you to Oregon and how has your time here influenced and shaped your writing? About ten years ago, I packed my car with books and cats and the 20 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE
Poet John Sibley Williams touches on cultural and political issues.
2019
being brutally honest with ourselves and trying to find an authentic way of sharing our perspectives with others, we are inherently part of that great life ring. Poetry unravels, reveals, explores, regardless of its larger purpose. The only thing that matters is truth. If we are exploring truth in our writing, the context is secondary. Although these truths are universal and timeless, they take on so much more weight during times of cultural and political upheaval. You’re the father of twin toddlers. How has fatherhood impacted your words and your approach to poetry and life? Fatherhood has wholly altered my creative DNA. Most significantly it has adjusted my priorities. Although exploring the written word has been my sole drive for decades, now it must share heartspace and mindspace with raising my children as best I can. I overflow with fear of failing them as a father. I boil with a kind of love I’ve never known. And I feel my poems reflect these escalating, often contradictory emotions. Even when I’m writing about California fires or Charlottesville or my own past, my children are there in every word.
Smooth sailing Maloy's offers a fabulous selection of antique and estate jewelry and fine custom jewelry, as well as repair and restoration services. We also buy.
music in motion OREGON BACH FESTIVAL JUNE 28 - JULY 13, 2019
www.OregonBachFestival.org • Tickets available May 2 • 541-682-5000
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Pilot House Distilling
Beerlandia
Cucumber Basil Martini
Freshly cut from the fields, hop cones hang before being plucked from the bines and heading to the drying floors at Goschie Farms.
The Nature of Beer
3 ounces Bar Pilot Cucumber Vodka ½ ounce ginger simple syrup 3 sliced cucumber rounds 2 fresh sprigs basil 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice Muddle simple syrup, cucumber, basil and juice. Pour into cocktail shaker over ice and add vodka. Shake and strain into martini glass. Garnish glass with a cucumber round.
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Don Pettit/Goschie Farms
food + drink
MAY | JUNE 2019
written by Jeremy Storton I SAT TYPING away at my keyboard one wintry day at a local brewery. A beautiful, brilliantly clear pale ale with a rich head kept me company and served as my muse. My calendar said January, but the sunny, 60-degree temperature outside suggested late spring. “If this is climate change,” I thought, “I could get used to this.” I discovered the world of beer in college. Despite my best efforts, I also graduated with a degree in environmental studies, examining the intricate, weblike relationship of all things that make up an ecosystem. For me, the two were completely unrelated, until I had an epiphany last October. A flurry of reports came out warning that climate change will affect barley production, thus driving beer prices higher. All the old college lectures, visits to farms and time spent learning about beer were a jigsaw puzzle, and these warnings were the final piece. The world of beer is its own complex and web-like ecosystem of terroir, farmers, brewers, distribution, retailers and consumers. A seemingly small change in any of these links will affect the strength of the entire chain. Climate Armageddon may or may not be the life-altering dystopia some envision. Still, it may drastically alter the quality of our beer-filled lives. If we truly vote with our dollars, then the opportunity to shape our social ecosystem through our beer choices is completely in our hands. We can have our beer, and drink it, too. We may be able to have it all if we only make a series of wise choices that set us up for a better, beer-filled future.
GREEN BEER The following is a partial list of Oregon beer businesses contributing solutions to environmental challenges.
WILLAMETTE VALLEY HOP FARMS Coleman Farms www.colemanag.com Crosby Farms www.crosbyhops.com Goschie Farms www.goschiefarms.com
BREWERIES Fort George Brewery (Astoria) www.fortgeorgebrewery.com/about/ sustainability Full Sail Brewing Co. (Hood River) www.fullsailbrewing.com/sustainability Hopworks Urban Brewery (Portland) www.hopworksbeer.com/do-good/ environment Ninkasi Brewing Company (Eugene) www.bit.ly/ninkasi_sustainability Standing Stone Brewing Co. (Ashland) www.standingstonebrewing.com/mission Widmer Brewing (Portland) www.widmerbrothers.com/brewery/ sustainability
OTHER RELATED ENTITIES Oregon Brewshed Alliance www.bit.ly/brewshedalliance Paktech (Eugene) www.paktech-opi.com/environmentalimpact
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food + drink
CRAVINGS: DOUGHNUTS
NOLA DOUGHNUTS Mardi Gras is just a king-cake-splattered March memory, but National Doughnut Day is June 7, and brother-sister duo Rob Herkes and Connie DeMerell’s Portland doughnut shops blend the best of both worlds with their New Orleans-inspired “la’ssants,” uniquely flaky square doughnuts made with a croissant-like dough, French technique, and European grass-fed butter. Sip your chicory coffee with hot, made-to-order beignets dipped in housemade raspberry mocha sauce. 365 N STATE ST. LAKE OSWEGO 110 NW 10TH AVE. PORTLAND www.noladoughnuts.com
SISTERS BAKERY
Giraffe Goods’ cooler features fresh bento boxes to go.
Gastronomy
Giraffe Goods written by Jen Stevenson QUIETLY OCCUPYING a corner of the vast, marvelously eccentric Cargo marketplace, this Tokyo-apartment-sized grocery and cafe imports the most delicious flavors of the land of the rising sun straight into Southeast Portland’s industrial district. Japanophiles will delight in chef-owners Gabe Rosen and Kana Hinohara Hanson’s beautiful bento boxes, golden-yolked egg sandwiches, crispy hot karaage, and fragrant bowls of beef curry rice—best eaten on the spot, while making your shopping list of take-home delicacies. Scour the market shelves for bundles of buckwheat noodles, jars of yuzu kosho and garlic-infused chili oil, an exquisite fig vinegar billed as “Joël Robuchon’s favorite Japanese ingredient,” and green tea everything. Get your Hi-Chew and melon gummy fix from the colorful candy jars crowding the register, try one of the matcha or red bean paste rolls delivered daily from Beaverton’s Oyatsupan Bakers, and in the cold case, next to the natto and pickles, grab gyoza wrappers sourced from renowned Sun Noodle company. Before leaving, sign up for a Wednesday night Japanese cooking class, where Rosen—who also owns Noraneko ramen shop a few blocks south—teaches merry dinner-party-sized groups how to stuff and pleat gyoza, simmer sukiyaki, and master the art of okonomiyaki. Classes sell out as quickly as it takes a salaryman to slurp a bowl of ramen, so subscribe to Giraffe’s newsletter for first dibs. 81 SE YAMHILL ST. PORTLAND www.giraffegoods.com
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Sure, Sisters is known for its stunning natural beauty, abundance of outdoorsy to-dos, charming Old West storefronts and celebrated late summer folk festival. But fried-dough devotees come for the good old-fashioned doughnuts—soft, squishy, raised, glazed, iced, spiced, sugared and/or sprinkled. Try the epic “pinecone,” a yeast doughnut as delicately ribbed as its namesake, with a sweet stripe of maple or chocolate icing. 251 E CASCADE AVE. SISTERS www.sistersbakery.com
JOE’S DONUT SHOP Driving through Sandy en route to Mount Hood, you can’t miss the landmark red-and-white concrete block doughnut hole-in-the-wall. Inside, find a packed case with more than twenty varieties of fresh homemade doughnuts and pastries, from blueberry fritters and marionberry jelly-filled, to maple peanut Pershings and strawberry cream cheese strudel, with a jumble of classic cake doughnuts, old-fashioneds, and bear claws in between. 39230 PIONEER BLVD SANDY www.joes-donuts.com
VALI’S ALPINE RESTAURANT From Memorial Day to Labor Day, this sweet little Alpine supper house turns out some of the most mouthwatering and inventive doughnuts around. From pistachio almond and chocolate earl grey to passion fruit curd and coconut cream-filled versions inspired by chef-owners Michael and Dionne Vali’s winter travels to Hawaii, these doughnuts are dished on weekend mornings only. 59811 WALLOWA LAKE HWY JOSEPH www.valisrestaurant.com
MAY | JUNE 2019
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BEST PLACES FOR
BOUNTIFUL BRUNCHING HUNNYMILK
Christine Dong
food + drink
With both a West Burnside brick and mortar and an eastside weekends-only pop-up, this pretty prix fixe brunch cafe makes it easy to treat mom to something a little unexpected this Mother’s Day. Chef Brandon Weeks’ $23 menus rotate regularly, but the format stays the same—first, choose a drink (obviously the caramel hot chocolate with toasted milk marshmallows), then something from both the sweet and savory sections, perhaps the smoky bacon Dutch baby and key lime curd-filled poppy seed crêpe, or the crispy pork ribs and cheesy garlic grits with a honey butter-dipped fortune cookie waffle. 1981 W BURNSIDE ST. PORTLAND www.hunnymilk.com
FOXTAIL BAKESHOP AND KITCHEN Part of Bend’s exciting and ever-evolving Box Factory project near the Old Mill, pastry chef-owner Nickol Hayden-Cady’s comely bakery and cafe promises an artful experience, from the gorgeous wall mural to the dazzling pastry case to the plates piled with edible art—think matcha white chocolate-dipped brioche doughnuts, sweet potato waffles with hazelnut butter and citrus marmalade, and white cheddar béchamel-soaked lamb moussaka.
Glazed baby back ribs, fried cauliflower and tikistyle cocktails are the order of the day at Eem.
Dining
Eem
written by Jen Stevenson
Grab a sidewalk table at this Baker City brunch bastion and watch the locals meet, greet and gossip as you dig into heaping plates of homemade buttermilk biscuits and sausage gravy, salsa-verde-drenched huevos rancheros, or one (or two) of the sublime softball-sized cinnamon rolls. Or try the good old, basic breakfast—with thick-cut wedges of German rye toast, savory potato sausage patties, perfectly sunnyside up eggs, and crispy home fries.
IT’S HARD TO argue with a restaurant concept that promises “smoked meats and vacation drinks,” and that’s just what you’ll get (with a side of tamarind-spiked Thai BBQ fried rice) at North Portland’s Eem, a boozy, boisterous, funk and firekissed collaboration between James Beard Award-nominated restaurateur Earl Ninsom (Langbaan, Hat Yai), Matt’s BBQ pitmaster Matt Vicedomini and acclaimed bartender Eric Nelson (Shipwreck). Start the night with a long look at Nelson’s cocktail list—it’s hard to resist the siren call of the Nocturnal Worker, made with Thai rice liquor, Oaxacan rum, banana, soursop and cardamom, and bearing a provocative “limit two per guest” warning label. Tiki mug in hand, dive into fish sauce-doused fried cauliflower and roasted beets topped with fresh herbs and puffed jasmine rice, followed by the sweet-and-sour fried chicken, soy-honey-glazed baby back ribs and sliced pork steak served with crisp greens and spicy nahm prik noom dip. Double up on curries—it’s impossible to choose between the fiery “jungle” curry swimming with slices of tender, slow-smoked brisket, and rich, velvety white coconut curry topped with melt-in-yourmouth burnt brisket ends. For dessert, Langbaan pastry chef Maya Erickson makes two kinds of mini pies—an otherworldly lemongrass, pandan and lime cream capped with silky Makrut lime meringue, and Thai banana layered with incense-smoked custard, Mekhong caramel and chocolate. Order both, and perhaps a Chilean brandy and passion fruit-packed Liberation, along with your second (and last) Nocturnal Worker.
1825 MAIN ST. BAKER CITY www.facebook.com/thelonepineface
3808 N WILLIAMS AVE. PORTLAND www.eemportland.com
555 NW ARIZONA ST. BEND www.foxtailbakeshop.com
BRODER ØST Hungry Hood River residents know where to queue up when the brunch bell rings. The eastern outpost of Portland’s favorite Scandinavian-style breakfast spot delivers piping hot skillets of smoked trout hash with hearty walnut toast, crispy smashed potatoes splashed with marjoram cream and pyramids of freshly baked aebleskiver ready to dip in housemade lemon curd and lingonberry jam, in a lovely, light-filled nook adjoining downtown’s historic Hood River Hotel. 102 OAK ST. HOOD RIVER www.brodereast.com
THE LONE PINE CAFE
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MENS WOMENS KIDS BABY SHOES ACCESSORIES TEXTILES GIFTS
farm to table
Farm to Table
Strawberry Fields Forever Columbia Farms on Sauvie Island bring the berries to the people written by Sophia McDonald photography by David L. Reamer
COME MAY, THE ROWS of calf-high plants at Sauvie Island’s Columbia Farms have reached their full size and seem to stretch endlessly toward the horizon. Hidden beneath waterfalls of sawtooth-edged leaves are one of spring’s biggest treats—strawberries, some big, some small, all bright red and promising sublime sweetness. Maybe it’s just that strawberries are the first fruit to come on the market after a long winter full of earthy storage crops and bitter greens. Maybe it’s that unparalleled flavor, coupled with their charming heart shape and striking color. There’s something special about this berry—especially for Oregonians, who live in one of the best berry-growing regions in the world and, as a result, have access to premium fruit during the short growing season.
Columbia Farms on Sauvie Island grows a variety of strawberries.
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Dave and Diane Kunkel, along with their daughter, Megan Hallstone, have been growing berries on Sauvie Island since the 1990s. Their 2,000-acre farm is home to a number of other crops, including wheat, grass seed and pumpkins. Dave Kunkel said, however, that berries are his favorite thing to grow. “They’re higher value and, quite frankly, it’s a lot more fun,” he said. “The people who get your product enjoy it and are thankful for it.” Fresh always wins over a package of frozen berries or a smear in the bottom of a stir-your-own yogurt cup. To satisfy the varying needs of consumers, the Kunkels grow several types of strawberries. There’s nothing quite like the small, super-sweet Hood for fresh eating. Diane Kunkel prefers Puget Reliance for preserving. “When Megan and I do jam, we don’t use Hoods because when you add sugar to them, it’s almost like a cotton-candy flavor. Puget Reliance still has the strawberry flavor when you add the sugar to it.” From a grower’s perspective, Dave Kunkel prefers the Puget Reliance or newer Marys Peak because Hood plants only produce for one to two years. The Kunkels pick some of their own berries to sell at Zupan’s Market in Portland and their farm stand. But many of their berry fields are set aside for u-pick. There are some distinct advantages to that. Hallstone welcomes the opportunity to educate people about how their food is produced. Columbia Farms engages in what it calls responsible farming rather than organic growing. Among
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farm to table
FROM LEFT Dave and Diane Kunkel and their daughter, Megan Hallstone, have operated the farm since the 1990s. People pick strawberries at Columbia Farms.
other things, it rotates its strawberry fields so fumigation isn’t necessary and monitors pests in the fields to only spray if needed. “There’s a big misconception that organic means spray-free and that’s not the case,” Hallstone said. “So many people don’t know where their food comes from, and u-pick is a great way to bridge that gap.” U-pick also helps them work around one of the biggest challenges for most farmers—labor. It’s hard to find people to pick berries, although they’ve found that teachers looking for summer employment are a pretty reliable source. And as Hallstone explained, it’s hard for farmers to keep up with the growing costs of employees. “With the majority of crops in farming, you don’t set your own price.” Instead, they’re set by international commodity markets, wholesalers or retailers. “So when minimum wage keeps going up, most businesses can just increase their prices to cover that, but in farming you can’t.” Selling direct-to-consumer allows the Kunkels more flexibility to charge the prices necessary to cover costs. Having customers on a working farm presents some challenges, of course. There are always safety considerations when there’s large equipment around. A sticking point with many people is that they can’t bring their dogs into the u-pick fields—something that’s banned because of food safety regulations. But the yearly ritual of inviting people to become part of their farm, even if it’s just for an hour or two, is something the family has no plans to give up. If nothing else, they all look forward to seeing the people they describe as the best customers a business could ask for. “You can count on one hand in our twenty-some years the times that we felt like 30 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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somebody stole from us,” Dave Kunkel said. “To this day, somebody will show up and they’ve forgotten their money, and we give them a receipt and say, ‘Send us a check.’ And it always comes.” California and Florida are the top strawberry-producing states in the country, but Oregon regularly falls within the top five. According to Matt Unger, co-founder at Unger Farms Inc. and chairman of the Oregon Strawberry Commission, the volume of strawberries produced in the Willamette Valley has been declining since the 1980s. “Strawberries don’t have a real big fresh market compared to blueberries,” he said. “Oregon strawberries are more delicate, so they don’t have the longest shelf life.” They also face stiff price competition from California and Mexico. But while berries from these southern neighbors may be cheaper, Oregon has a real advantage when it comes to quality. Strawberry shortcake is one of the most common uses for super-sweet summer berries. For Mother’s Day or any other occasion, try the recipe from Lisa Schroeder, owner of Portland’s famed Mother’s Bistro and Bar. An alternative to the traditional shortcake is strawberry cassata from chef Ken Boyle at Salishan Resort in Gleneden Beach. Sweetened ricotta cheese and strawberry syrup are sandwiched between layers of almond-flavored cake. Strawberries make great jam, but another way to preserve them is by making a shrub, in which berries are packed in sugar and vinegar. The liquid is delicious in cocktails like this Strawberry Pimm’s Cup, developed by Eddie Riddell, bar manager at Portland’s Trifecta.
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farm to table
Oregon Recipes
Mother’s Strawberry Shortcake Mother’s Bistro & Bar / PORTLAND Lisa Schroeder
Sweet Treats Strawberry Pimm’s Cup
FOR STRAWBERRY SHRUB 1 cup strawberries, stemmed and chopped 1 cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon crushed black pepper ½ cup champagne vinegar ¼ to ½ cup apple cider vinegar, depending on your acidity preference
Trifecta / PORTLAND Eddie Riddell MAKES 1 DRINK
1½ ounces Pimms #1 1 ounce dry gin 1 ounce strawberry shrub (see recipe below) Splash of lemon juice Splash of simple syrup Shake all ingredients and serve over ice in a Collins glass. Garnish with fresh mint, fresh strawberries and a lemon wedge.
Strawberry Cassata
Salishan / GLENEDEN BEACH Ken Boyle SERVES 6-8 FOR THE BATTER 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, for preparing pan 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, for preparing pan 6 large eggs, at room temperature ¾ cup sugar 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest Pinch of salt ½ teaspoon almond extract 1⅓ cups sifted cake flour FOR THE SYRUP ½ cup sugar Zest of 1 lemon, removed in large strips 2 tablespoons grappa or vodka FOR THE FILLING 2 cups fresh ricotta ¼ cup sugar, or more to taste FOR THE GARNISH ½ pound ripe strawberries, hulled and halved 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice
32 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
SERVES 6
FOR STRAWBERRY SHRUB Add the strawberries, sugar and crushed black pepper to a bowl. Mix and let macerate overnight. Add champagne and apple cider vinegar. Let steep for a few more hours or overnight. Strain and refrigerate until ready to use.
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour an 8-inch diameter springform pan and set aside. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat eggs at medium speed. Add sugar, lemon zest, salt and almond extract and continue whisking for 10 to 15 minutes, until mixture is quite thick and nearly holds peaks. Fold in flour quickly. Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake for 25 minutes or until a skewer emerges dry when inserted in middle of cake. Cool on a rack. It’s best to make the cake a day in advance. Simmer sugar, ½ cup water and the lemon zest over medium heat for 10 minutes. Cool, stir in grappa and set aside. Meanwhile, make the filling by whisking together ricotta and sugar to a spreadable consistency. Slice cake into 4 thin layers. Put 1 layer on a cake platter. Paint generously with syrup and spread with a quarter of the ricotta filling. Repeat with remaining 3 layers, stacking as you go. Smooth top layer of ricotta cream. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 24 hours. Keep refrigerated until an hour before serving. To serve, toss berries with sugar and lemon juice. Let macerate no more than 10 minutes, then spoon berries over cake.
MAY | JUNE 2019
FOR THE SHORTCAKE 2 cups all-purpose flour ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon baking powder 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces ¾ cup heavy cream 2 mashed hard-cooked large egg yolks 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted FOR THE FILLING 3 pints strawberries, washed, hulled and halved or quartered 2 tablespoons sugar 1 cup heavy cream Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly butter a baking sheet. Sift the flour, ¼ cup of sugar and the baking powder into a bowl. Add the butter pieces. Using your fingertips, work the butter quickly and lightly into the flour mix until the mixture is the consistency of very fine crumbs or sand. Add the cream and egg yolks and stir with a fork until the dough just holds together. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and knead briefly, just until it forms a smooth dough—do not overwork. Pat or roll out the dough to a ¾-inch thickness. Using a floured 2½- or 3-inch cookie cutter, cut out 4 rounds of dough. Gather up the dough scraps, reroll, and cut out 2 more rounds. Put the rounds on the prepared baking sheet. Brush with the melted butter and sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. Bake on the middle rack of the oven for 12 to 15 minutes, until biscuits are golden brown and firm to the touch. Meanwhile, put the strawberries in a bowl and toss them with the sugar. In a medium bowl, whip the cream until soft peaks form. Cover and refrigerate. Transfer biscuits to a rack and let cool for 2 to 3 minutes. Carefully split biscuits in half and set the tops aside. Place the bottoms on dessert plates and heap the strawberries onto them. Generously spoon whipped cream over the strawberries and replace the biscuit tops. Serve immediately, with any remaining whipped cream on the side.
farm to table
Strawberry shortcake is a summer must.
MAY | JUNE 2019
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 33
farm to table
Marzipan and strawberries make this tart special.
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farm to table
Home Grown Chef
Strawberry Alarm Clock written by Thor Erickson photography by Charlotte Dupont LIKE CLOCKWORK, every year in early May, I start to hear a voice in my head. No matter where I am or what I am doing, it stops me in my tracks. A deep, faint, mildly pleasant whisper. “Strawberries,” it gently says, like a game-show host leading a yoga class in The Twilight Zone. “Strawberries,” it tells me, more frequently as days pass. This voice is telling me that Oregon strawberry season is looming, and I had better be ready. The haunting refrain “Strawberries …” is warning that there might not be enough time to fully capture the fleeting ripeness of these sweet little Northwest gems. “Strawberries …” underscoring that no time machine would allow me to live in Oregon strawberry season for eternity. If I don’t heed the call, I might not have enough time to enjoy the Totem, Hood, Tillamook, Firecracker, Puget Reliance, Puget Summer and Redcrest varieties of Oregon. Two years ago, I was visiting Denmark in May. After baking rye bread for most of the day, my hosts, Dennis and Per, suggested we take a dip in the nearby Gudenå River. The Speedo-clad Danes were making fun of my “American swimsuit” when I heard the voice again: “Strawberries!” I yelled it aloud as I plunged into the refreshingly cold waters. I explained to my Danish friends that Oregon has the best strawberries in the world—surely they must already know this. They looked at each other, smiled, and said, “No, Denmark has the best strawberries in the world, you crazy man.” After our swim and much argument over strawberries, we went back to the kitchen at Dennis’s thatched-roof house, where he showed me how to prepare a Danish specialty, Jordbærtærte, or strawberry tart. It was delicious. The entire time that I was eating the buttery, creamy tart with a hint of marzipan and vanilla and topped with delicious berries, the voice repeated in my head: “This would be much better with Oregon strawberries.” Follow your inner voice.
Dennis Rafn’s Danish Strawberry Tart (with Oregon Strawberries) SERVES 8 FOR THE PASTRY 4 ounces butter, cold 2 ounces white sugar 5 ounces all-purpose flour 1 small egg 3 ounces dark chocolate, for brushing on the base
FOR VANILLA CREAM 1 egg 1½ tablespoons cornstarch ½ vanilla bean 1¼ cups whole milk 1½ tablespoons sugar 1 cup heavy cream
FOR TOP 1 pound Oregon FOR MARZIPAN MIX strawberries, 7 ounces marzipan cleaned and halved 4 ounces sugar 4 ounces butter Powdered sugar, sifted 2 eggs Fresh mint leaves 2 ounces all-purpose flour Cut butter into cubes and rub together with icing sugar and flour. Add the egg, and knead the dough quickly. Do not overwork the dough or it will get sticky. Wrap and leave to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Mix the marzipan, butter and sugar together. Stir the eggs in one at a time, beating well in between. Sift in the flour and mix to combine. Roll out the short crust pastry ⅛-inch thick on a floured surface. Gently place the dough in a greased 9-inch tart pan, then press firmly into all the grooves. Spread the marzipan mixture over the base of the tart. Bake tart for 15-20 minutes until the mixture is firm to the touch. Cool completely. Melt the chocolate over a bain-marie and brush the base of the tart with the chocolate. This step prevents a soggy bottom. For the vanilla cream, beat the egg and cornstarch in a saucepan. Add the vanilla bean, milk and sugar, bring to a boil and cook for 1 minute while stirring. Remove the cream from the heat when it has thickened. Remove the vanilla bean. Set aside to cool. Whip the cream to soft peaks, and fold into the cooled vanilla mixture. Gently spread the cream mixture over the tart and top with strawberries, starting from the outer edge and overlapping the layers as you go. Before serving, garnish with powdered sugar and mint.
MAY | JUNE 2019
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home + design
New Energy Works/(c) Loren Nelson Photography
The timber-frame outdoor pavilion takes advantage of the home’s 5 acres.
The Great Outdoors A timber-frame outdoor pavilion draws a West Linn family outside written by Melissa Dalton
WHEN DANIEL HARKAVY and his wife bought their West Linn house in 2013, its 5-acre plot included woodland, pasture and lovely valley views, but the deck off the back door overlooked a swing set. On warm weather days, you might sit on the deck’s built-in bench while waiting for the barbecue to fire up, but there was little else to beckon anyone outdoors. Yet the prospect of enjoying all that acreage was just what had attracted the family to buy in the first place. “We moved from three-quarters of an acre to 5 acres,” said Harkavy, an executive coach. “I always had a dream of living out on a bit more land and having more to play with.” The classic timber-frame home that came with the land had excellent bones, including vaulted ceilings and exposed beams, but the worn fixtures and finishes weren’t quite to the new owners’ taste. They approached New Energy Works, an Oregon and New York-based firm that specializes in designing and building timber frame structures, for a renovation. “They really liked the location,” Jonathan Orpin, founder of New Energy Works, said. “They wanted to know if we could do anything to help them like their house.” The resulting design plan encompassed a makeover, inside and out. In the main house, the team opened up the floorplan, replaced windows and cut new doors, then updated the kitchens and baths. Outside, the couple swapped out the existing deck for 36 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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a pool, and Orpin’s team installed a timber-frame pavilion that complements the style of the main house. “We saw it as an extension of living space, with a kitchen and dining room, and casual hangout space, regardless of the time of year. We wanted it to be all-weather,” Harkavy said.
Old-World Craftsmanship Timber-frame construction is a traditional method, defined by posts and beams hewn from heavy timbers, as opposed to pre-cut lumber, and connected together by mortise and tenon joinery. Orpin’s outfit typically roughs out the joinery with a CNC machine, then finishes it with hand tools. “It’s structure as craft,” Orpin said. The longevity of such sturdily built buildings, as well as their distinct aesthetic, is part of their appeal. Think 19th-century buildings in Europe. The Harkavys’ pavilion is composed of big reclaimed logs pulled from an industrial building. “I love reclaimed timbers because of their story,” Orpin said. “They immediately give us a sense that they have a place in history. These timbers have been somewhere before us and they’ll probably be somewhere after us.” His team cut the pavilion’s posts, rafters and ridge pole in their McMinnville workshop and fit them together, “kind of like a Lincoln Log set,” Harkavy said.
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The structure was then disassembled and brought to the site for construction, which can feel like an old-fashioned barn raising. “We were able to help with the raising,” Harkavy said. “My sons and I and friends were all able to play a role in building it.”
Getting the Design Right For the pavilion’s location, the couple chose an empty grassy side yard for the way it accessed the view. Then Orpin oriented the pavilion’s roofline to run parallel to the house. “That allowed a nice sense of capturing and framing that view against the gable,” Orpin said. Achieving the right scale was also paramount. “You have to have a certain proportionality between the structures to create a community of buildings, otherwise they tend to stick out poorly,” Orpin said. The pavilion attaches to the main house via a pergola, which defines the walkway and provides physical connection without darkening the living area inside the home. “They wanted the pavilion connected to the house, but not on top of the house, so that they could move inside and outside comfortably,” Orpin said. The interior layout needed to flow well, especially in the case of bigger gatherings, which the Harkavys enjoy, since they have several kids and host large dinners for work or play. “When you create these outdoor living areas, there’s two main functions to it—eating and socializing,” Orpin said. “We tried to balance that hangout space with the functionality of preparing and sharing a meal.” Now, comfortable chairs surround the fireplace, with overflow benches lining the outdoor room’s perimeter. A nearby kitchenette, including a stainless-steel sink, fridge and integrated grill, mirrors a floating bar on the opposite side of the room, which can be used for buffet serving or overflow seating. At the center, a dining table with seating for fourteen is ready to bring people together.
Regarding styling, the couple opted to balance the reclaimed wood with streamlined modern furnishings and artisanal concrete accents. Smooth concrete, via the scored patio floor, fireplace façade and counters, balances the rustic texture of the posts and beams, as well as the wood cabinetry in the kitchen area. Metal Tolix-style dining chairs and white powder-coated bar stools offer contemporary pops. The dining table, handmade by Harkavy’s sons, unites the modern industrial look, thanks to the combination of a wood top and a streamlined steel base. Copious lighting, including gooseneck sconces over the kitchen and whimsical string lights, are the inviting finishing touch, while restaurant-grade ceiling heaters ensure the room can be used beyond summer nights. Come the weekend or after work, it’s not uncommon for Harkavy to gravitate outside whenever the opportunity presents itself. “In the summer months, I’ll have my tea and start my day out there. In the evenings, we’ll hang out and start a fire for chill downtime. It can be just my wife and I, or family gatherings,” Harkavy said. “Truthfully, it’s my favorite room in the house.” 38 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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New Energy Works/(c) Loren Nelson Photography
Adding Modern Contrast
home + design
“I love reclaimed timbers because of their story. They immediately give us a sense that they have a place in history. These timbers have been somewhere before us and they’ll probably be somewhere after us.” — Jonathan Orpin, founder of New Energy Works
The pavilion serves as an extension of the house, with a kitchen and living area.
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 39
home + design
DIY: Concrete Planter illustrated by Esther Loopstra
AS ANYONE WHO HAS ever strolled through the nursery knows, outdoor pots can add up. Try this straightforward method for making a concrete outdoor planter to spruce up your stoop. the mold), mix the concrete powder with water according to package instructions. You might need more than one bag, depending on your planter size. The concrete’s desired consistency should resemble porridge or peanut butter.
1 MAKE A MOLD
A concrete mold or formwork is used to hold the concrete in place while the material hardens to the desired shape. For this project, the mold will have two parts: the exterior vessel, which will dictate the planter’s overall shape, and an interior vessel, which will fit inside the first to create the cavity needed for the plant’s root ball and dirt. The mold doesn’t have to be complicated. You can reuse objects, like cardboard boxes, or two differentsized plastic buckets.
4
Using cooking oil or WD-40, spray the walls of the mold that will touch the concrete. Pack concrete inside the bottom of the exterior vessel, around the drainage tube. When the concrete is level with the top of the tube, place the interior vessel inside, then put weights inside it for added stabilization. Continue to scoop concrete into the gap between the two vessels, tapping the exterior with a mallet to settle the cement and remove air bubbles.
2 ADD DRAINAGE
If you want a drainage hole at the bottom of the planter, glue or tape a 1- to 2-inch piece of plastic tubing to the inside center of the exterior vessel. The interior vessel will sit on top of this tube during construction. MIX THE CONCRETE
Bags of unmixed concrete can be found at any home improvement or hardware store. In a separate container (not one being used for 40 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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SPRAY AND PACK
5
LET IT CURE
Cover with plastic and allow the concrete to dry for at least twenty-four hours. Remove the molds by gently tapping the exterior with a mallet or cutting them away with a utility knife. Leave the planter to finish curing for several more days before planting.
home + design
Modern Outdoor Finds Make your patio pop with these products
If you need an update for a decrepit picnic table, try the Aviara Aluminum Rectangular Dining Table from Restoration Hardware. Made of rust-proof tubular aluminum and available in three sizes, its strong, graphic lines will stand out on your patio. www.restorationhardware.com
The Tolix Marais A Chair may have been created in 1934, but it still looks fresh today. Fabricated from powder-coated steel or galvanized steel, the chair that once sat on the deck of the S.S. Normandie, not to mention numerous French cafés in the decades since, will lend your backyard a certain joie de vivre. www.dwr.com
Barn Light Electric looks to vintage silhouettes for design inspiration. Take the Frontier LED Angle Shade sconce. It riffs off of classic gas station lamps, but the LED technology, which lasts up to 50,000 hours, is all new. www.barnlight.com
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mind + body
Sebastián Blanco’s exciting style of play fits right in with the Timbers.
Fútbol Fitness Sebastián Blanco brings his fiery play to Portland written by Mackenzie Wilson 42 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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mind + body
Craig Mitchelldyer/Portland Timbers
WHEREVER THE PORTLAND TIMBERS take the field, a posse of loyal fans known as the Timbers Army follows. The supporters are well-known for their intensity and vocal support from the stands through chants, coordinated singing, and scarf waving. If any player matches their energy and enthusiasm, it is Timbers midfielder Sebastián Blanco. The 31-year-old’s fiery attitude often catches the attention of game announcers and officials. “It’s something that I’ve always done on the field, but unfortunately it can cause me trouble every now and then because that fiery personality on the field might not be the best example for some young players,” the Argentinian said. He’s played with the same burst of emotion since he was a little boy learning to dribble in Buenos Aires. Blanco started soccer at 4 years old but jokes that he was born with a soccer ball. In 2017, he was traded to the Timbers from a club in Argentina, and even though it meant uprooting his family—his now wife and infant daughter— he felt confident it was the right move. “We knew it was going to be a beautiful experience for our family,” Blanco said. “We weren’t unsure. … We knew exactly what we wanted to do.” A natural fit, Blanco slipped into a starring role with the Timbers. In 2018, he was awarded “Player of the Year” by the Timbers Army. “I didn’t expect that. I felt very, very
happy because I worked really hard,” he said. “It felt like a reward for the work that I put in every day.” The love flows both ways. Blanco said no matter what part of the country they play in, there are supporters from the Timbers Army waiting to cheer the team on. “They are phenomenal, you know? This is a very healthy relationship that we have between the club, the community and our fans,” he said. Tradition is important to the Timbers and their fans, even when it doesn’t make sense to other people. Blanco said people in Argentina still don’t quite get the Timbers’ postgoal tradition of taking a roaring chainsaw to a log, then parading the piece of wood through the stands. “For us players, it’s a moment where you feel very proud and you feel that you’re following tradition,” Blanco said. “You feel really close to the people because you identify with the culture of the city.” The pieces of log go to the player who scores the goal. Some slabs are given to charitable causes, but Blanco said he’s held onto the ones that represent important goals in his career. Despite being in his early 30s, Blanco can’t avoid wondering how long he’s got left on the field. He does his best to stay positive and prepare his body for the future. “There is a lot of longevity in soccer nowadays. So you know, I try to work hard and be the best I can, so I can continue to perform and play at my best level,” he said.
Sebastián Blanco Professional Soccer Player Age: 31 Born: Buenos Aires, Argentina Residence: Portland
NUTRITION “I think I’m different than the vast majority of players because I don’t eat gluten, sugar or dairy. … I started this diet three years ago and have seen a change in my body and my performance on and off the field. My go-to foods are chicken, rice, sweet potatoes, avocados and other superfoods.”
HEALTHY LIVING “For me to live a healthy life means to be healthy not only physically but also emotionally and mentally. You can only accomplish that by eating healthy and following certain patterns with your nutrition and performance.”
EVENTS Timbers Home Games • June 1: Los Angeles FC • June 22: Houston Dynamo • June 30: FC Dallas
Blanco said no matter what part of the country they play in, there are supporters from the Timbers Army waiting to cheer the team on. “They are phenomenal, you know? This is a very healthy relationship that we have between the club, the community and our fans.” MAY | JUNE 2019
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artist in residence
Democratic Art Collaborative printmaking takes artists out of their comfort zones written by Catie Joyce-Bulay ON THE CONFEDERATED Tribes of Umatilla Indian Reservation is a well-worn road. Keep going after the road turns to dirt and you’ll reach the back of a white-washed building, a cross balanced at its top—the old St. Andrews Catholic Mission schoolhouse—and you’ll find the unassuming little sign announcing Crow’s Shadow Institute of the Arts. Here, surrounded by Eastern Oregon’s Blue Mountain foothills in an airy studio behind a small gallery, the bold collaborations of artist and printmaker quietly take place. “The idea is that the artist brings all of their talent to the table and then the printer brings all of their technical expertise and together they’re able to make a piece of work that talks to both the technique that they’re using and also the artist’s aesthetic,” said master printer Judith Baumann, who was trained in collaborative lithography through the University of New Mexico’s renowned Tamarind Institute. Crow’s Shadow invites to its residency program primarily artists who are unfamiliar with printmaking in order to push their artistic boundaries in new directions. The artists live onsite in a modest bedroom off the studio and may bring sketches or source images. The idea, though, is that they come to create something completely new and original. Baumann, who has a master of fine arts in printmaking from Virginia Commonwealth University, researches the artists’ style before they arrive so she can provide different mark-making tools for them to experiment with. “I can get a sense of how the artist uses color, composition and media in their work—whether they work in painting, sculpture, photography, mixed media, et cetera and deduce what the best lithographic approach may be for our collaboration,” she said. Next she asks, “‘How can I help them understand layering in their work?’ Because I think lithography is most interesting when there’s an interaction of color that happens in multiple layers.” Then the dance between printmaker and artist begins. “They have to come to a consensus so that the artist is happy with the visual aspect of it and the printer is OK with the technical aspect so that it’s doable for them,” said Crow’s Shadow executive director Karl 44 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Artist Marwin Begaye collaborated with master printer Judith Baumann on “Evening Song.”
Photo by Aaron Hawkins
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artist in residence
FROM LEFT Marwin Begaye in the Crow’s Shadow studio. The Crow’s Shadow gallery. Artist Raven Chacon with local high school students, who learn the printing process in a class at the institute.
“The idea is that the artist brings all of their talent to the table and then the printer brings all of their technical expertise and together they’re able to make a piece of work that talks to both the technique that they’re using and also the artist’s aesthetic.” — Judith Baumann, master printer at Crow’s Shadow Institute of the Arts Davis, explaining one of the ways in which the process is democratic in nature. In her role as master printer, Baumann integrates photography, printmaking and internet culture, but consciously keeps her own aesthetic from influencing collaborations. Once they agree upon the final design, the artist typically returns home, and Baumann creates the rest of the prints in the series, layering on each color one at a time. The process now moves from a shared creative one to a solitary and very physical experience, in which Baumann manually cranks sheets of paper through the large printing press. Although the studio uses other forms of printing such as monoprint or woodcuts, it specializes in lithography, in which an image is printed from a smooth surface—typically stone or metal—treated to repel ink everywhere but where the image is formed. “Each color takes a day to print, ideally,” Baumann said. “If it’s a five-color print that’s five days at the press back-to-back because we have to print so that the colors interact before they dry. Once you start printing you can’t stop.” The studio has hosted nearly sixty artists in residence and produced more than 250 works for its permanent collection, archived onsite and at Willamette University’s Hallie Ford Museum of Art. Baumann also teaches an annual class to local 46 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Nixyaawii high school students, who learn the printing process and create a limited-edition work of art they then display and sell in the gallery. The institute, the only of its kind in the country on an Indian reservation, was started in 1992 by painter James Lavadour, whose vivid paintings of Eastern Oregon’s rugged landscape have gained national recognition. Creating art since he was a boy growing up on the reservation, Lavadour found support from a few patrons who helped develop his talent through printmaking residencies. When he returned to the reservation, he saw that Native American artists there lacked the support and infrastructure to continue their careers, so in the building that once housed his own studio and living quarters, he founded Crow’s Shadow to fill that role. In its early days, the institute focused on professional development for artists and facilitated the teaching of traditional Native American arts such as bead-making and basket-weaving, something it continues today. “Lavadour saw the power of printmaking—the idea of it being a democratic art form,” Davis said. “If an artist makes a single painting, that single painting can be sold or donated or shown in one place, at one time, but if they can make a print and edition it ten or twenty times that work can be disseminated further to more places and be seen by more people.”
Artist Alice Blaschke with her interactive mural “Buteo Jamaicensis, Red-Tailed Hawk.“ Photo by Jennifer Moreland, corvallismurals.com.
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STARTUP 50 WHAT’S GOING UP 52 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 54 MY WORKSPACE 56
pg. 56 Yo Soy Candle makes eco-conscious candles by hand.
Ben McBee
GAME CHANGER 58
Every Moment Covered
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4/1/19 1:16 PM
startup
Getting Carried Away Bend’s Free Range Equipment makes technical packs using local artists’ works written by Sheila G. Miller MANY STARTUPS ARE born of necessity. Free Range Equipment is no different. Seven years ago, Tosch Roy was a student at Montana State University in Bozeman when he found himself with a little time on his hands. Sidelined with a knee injury and planning for a ski mountaineering race at Bridger Bowl, he didn’t have money or the right pack. So he sewed one himself. “It started as a way to save some money, but now I’ve put my life savings into it,” Roy said, laughing. Roy had done a bit of sewing before, mostly for juggling balls and model boat sails. He likes sewing because an idea can become a tangible finished product by the end of the day. Over Christmas break in 2012, he decided to give the pack another go. He sewed his second version at a local maker’s studio in Bend, and when he returned to Bozeman many of his friends were interested in having a pack of their own. “I should have been studying,” he said. “But I was sewing.” He came home from school that summer, read Paulo Coelho’s The Alchemist on a rafting trip down the middle fork of the Salmon River, and made the decision to try to make Free Range Equipment a real business. He didn’t return to school. “I decided I could always go back to school, but I might not always have this opportunity,” he said. Just to be clear—this isn’t your Silicon Valley startup with angel investors and a ping-pong table in the break room. There is no break room. This is a “started in dad’s garage and still here after seven years” startup. Since then, Roy said, he’s spent a lot of time practicing the “fake it ’til you make it” credo. As a kid, he’d done a ton of research before buying his outdoor gear (he said he had more backpacks than birthdays at some points), and he depended on that base and a lot of Googling and phone conversations to get his business off the ground. “It was kind of a hobby that turned into a business.” Roy bought some equipment, started sewing, and made some mistakes along the way. But people have continued to buy his gear. “I’ve always liked using light, simple packs,” he said. “I’m addicted to freedom and the outdoors, and I want to sell gear that, when you’re wearing it, you shouldn’t notice it. It should be about the experience you have outside.” The single-car garage where the packs are assembled is a tight, effective setup. First, there’s a cutting table where fabrics are unrolled and cut using a fabric jigsaw and patterns. There are dozens of plastic bins containing buckles and zippers and other hardware. And there are three sewing machines, for different needs, and a table with Roy’s computer and other 50 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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The Canvas Series features bright, beautiful local artwork.
assorted tech. That’s about it—but what he’s making is a lot more colorful than that. Free Range Equipment makes three technical packs—the Stud for rock climbing, the Raven for ski touring, and the Big Medicine, a 45-liter alpine pack. Two years ago, the company added another line, called the Canvas Series. These simple packs and fanny packs feature artwork made by artists from Bend and beyond—and they’ve been quite popular. For example, Bend artist Christina McKeown’s packs feature scenes from places such as Crater Lake, while Adam Haynes’ packs have depictions of the Metolius and Crane Prairie. The art is printed onto sublimation paper, then pressed onto the packs with a heat press. Some of the money from each sale of a Canvas Series pack goes back to the artist who designed it. The artists have helped Roy get the word out about Free Range Equipment, which otherwise has depended primarily on word of mouth (and the company’s chief fun officer, Roy’s sister, Zoë). Most of the packs are made to order. Roy and his team ship packs every two weeks, and keep very few on hand. That may change soon, though. Free Range Equipment is just beginning to wholesale its packs, and hopes to continue expanding that to get them in more stores. The plan is also to expand the Canvas Series, with more artists from more places. What started as friends designing the art on the packs has turned into a lot of artists wanting to work with Free Range, and Roy is happy to oblige. Eventually, Roy envisions giving back to the outdoors in the same way big brands like Patagonia do. “We’re making a product that has an environmental impact. I want these packs to last forever. They’re definitely designed to do that,” he said. But he wants to help the environment as his business grows. “I want to be a catalyst for change.”
What’s Going Up?
New Brews
Oregon has plenty of new brewpubs to check out, right in time for summer
Initiative Brewing, in Redmond, is one of a half dozen new breweries in the city.
written by Sheila G. Miller
Caleb Thomas
MONROE MIGHT NOT be a city on your visit list—yet. But it will be soon, as Long Timber Brewing Company is slated to open this spring. The city is located between Corvallis and Eugene, and according to the Corvallis Gazette-Times, the brewpub will be 10,000 square feet of good beer. Owned by the couple behind HullOakes Lumber, the building is expected to feature a ten-barrel brewing facility, as well as a taproom, dining room and bar. Over in Newport, long the stronghold of Rogue Ales, a new brewpub is coming to town. Newport Brewing Company will crack into the market here on May 20 with a seventy-five-seat pub called The Anchor, and the facility will also include a patio. And in Redmond, Initiative Brewing is the latest addition in the city’s fast-growing beer scene. Housed in a former bank building right in the middle of town, the brewery joins a half-dozen others that have recently opened taprooms and pubs, making the city nearly as much of a draw for beer lovers as Bend, its neighbor to the south.
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good work
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what i’m working on
What was the state of the mansion when you bought it? The whole south wall was rotted and had to be replaced, the windows and roof had to be replaced and the interior needed extensive work. I’m kind of glad I wasn’t working for the Historical Society when they bought it. I’m not sure I would have had the vision the organization had at the time. I’m glad they did. They were able to basically save the building, but it was not usable at all. They did an amazing job of triage in the early years.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The new seats in the revamped theater. The stage, under construction. A volunteer does finish work on the building.
Historic Overhaul The Lincoln County Historical Society saves a historic mansion, provides theater with view interview by Lori Tobias
FIFTEEN YEARS AGO, the Lincoln County Historical Society purchased a 30,000-square-foot historic mansion it hoped would one day house a maritime museum. The building featured stunning views of Yaquina Bay, a rich history, and a $240,000 price tag that was hard to resist. Even so, the 80-year-old rotting chateau promised to be a formidable challenge, and it was. But today, the Center is a place of great pride in the community, featuring one-of-a-kind wood finishes that are a story in themselves. Executive director Steve Wyatt talks about the long road to building Pacific Maritime Heritage Center. 54 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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There was a time when you feared the challenges might prove insurmountable. How did you turn that around? Around 2008, the whole project went into hibernation. Then in 2012, we secured a grant from the city for $200,000 with the caveat we had to open to the public within a year. We managed to get the main floor open. A little less than one-third of the building was finished at that time. Since then, we put in an elevator and built the 2,000-square-foot Doerfler Family Theatre. When it opens— probably in April—it will have tiered theaterstyle seating, as well as a small stage and, unlike other theaters that are a box with no windows, this has an amazing view of Port Dock 5. What is so special about the wood used to finish the theater? This isn’t just any wood. This is old-growth Douglas fir trees that were blown down on Cape Foulweather during the 1962 Columbus Day storm. The trees were recently helicoptered out of the grove and milled at Siletz River Lumber. One of our board members knew about the salvage operation and helped broker the deal. It’s a perfect match, since the Center is all about the history of the area, not to mention that the wood is beautiful. It’s 100-percent knot free. It’s amazing. And you had some help getting the wood installed? We did. We’ve got a group of volunteers known as ‘the old guys,’ all older retired residents who do a lot of projects like this. A lot of our work here on the theater had to be done by contractors, but the theater has extensive woodwork and this was the perfect job for volunteers.
OUR ROOTS RUN DEEP. And now we’re growing. e new Village Neighborhood offers spacious homes, resort-style amenities, and a spectacular Town Square. Act now to take advantage of Pioneer Beneets while inventory remains. Discover Mary’s Woods, where the roots of joyful senior living run deep in Lake Oswego. Go to MarysWoods.org to learn more or contact us at 1-866-886-8149.
Find a variety of local restaurants and flavors; shops with unique, top-quality goods; and experiences not found anywhere else, all just an hour’s drive from Portland
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HOOD RIVER Check out these local businesses during your next visit!
My Workspace
Yo Soy Candle Sparking positivity through affirmations and natural aromas written and photographed by Ben McBee
One simple statement serves as the inspiration for Leslie Abrams’ affirmation candle company—“yo soy”, or “I am” in Spanish. But prior to starting her business in 2012, she was unsure of herself and her purpose. Working as an esthetician and Brazilian waxer had become unfulfilling and exhausting, so Abrams decided to attend a yoga retreat in the Costa Rican jungle.
She returned around Christmas, rejuvenated and transformed. To show gratitude for her loved ones’ support, she began crafting gifts in a familiar medium—wax. “Everyone loved the candles. They were like, ‘Where can we get more? Can I get another of these?’” she said. “A couple months down the line people just kept asking.”
After moving from Atlanta, candle-making became a full-time career, and Abrams now runs Yo Soy Candle from her basement studio in Northeast Portland. With vibrant wall art and natural, ethereal scents, the space embodies both her mindfulness and free spirit. “The most interesting and fun part for me is I get to work from home,” she said. “I get to have my own dance parties downstairs and take breaks for snacks.”
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my workspace
Inspired sayings adorn Abrams’ bulletin board and good vibes permeate her workshop, where she creates every eco-conscious candle by hand. “People like to choose their candle based off of what they need most in life at the moment,” Abrams explained. “Whether it’s showing up more grateful, optimistic, aware or compassionate, my mission is just to create that simple reminder for someone.”
Abrams finds empowerment in entrepreneurship, and self love is a large part of it. “I have this practice when I’m pouring the candles,” she said. “I say whatever the affirmation is over and over. It becomes my meditation and mantra. It’s like I’m putting that energy into the candle as well.”
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Steve Tague Studios
game changer
Gear Up, Give Back users can send their used outdoor gear to The Gear Fix to be mended and sold.
Game Changer
Green Gear These Bend companies are trying to save the world, one box of used gear at a time written by Beau Eastes THE U.S. OUTDOOR INDUSTRY is doing a remarkably good job of getting products into the hands of gear junkies around the country. Nearly $900 million was spent in the United States on outdoor recreation in 2016, according to the Outdoor Industry Association, the leading trade organization in the U.S. for the outdoor industry. What the industry is struggling with, though, is where all those products end up once their usefulness is over. With that in mind, Bend-based organizations Cairn and The Gear Fix together launched the Gear Up, Give Back program in February 2018, an initiative that aims to keep gear out of landfills while raising money for outdoor causes. A subscription-box company for outdoor products, Cairn is now offering its members—or anyone else who wants to donate— the chance to send in “retired” items that can be mended and sold at The Gear Fix, a used gear and outdoor repair shop. All proceeds go to The Conservation Alliance, which is also based in Bend, with Cairn and The Gear Fix matching the money made from donated gear sales. 58 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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“Our business model has always been to be a discovery mechanism for gear,” said Jared Peterson, Cairn’s co-founder and co-CEO. “But in the back of our heads, we’ve always known we’re essentially serving products to people whether they need them or not.” Through the first year of the program, more than 2,000 retired items have been re-sold at The Gear Fix. “We can fix just about anything,” said Josh Sims, owner of The Gear Fix, a Bend staple in some form since 2006. Sims’ shop—a lifesaver for gear consumers on tight budgets—includes bike mechanics, ski techs, in-house sewing gurus, even a cobbler for boots and climbing shoes. “Don’t throw it out or let it sit around in your garage,” he said. “Send it in and let us do some good with it.” Cairn’s website has a list of what it recommends sending— yes on that Patagonia nano puff that needs a new zipper, no on your old-school Los Angeles Raiders Starter jacket—to help The Gear Fix, which fixes and prices all donated items. If an item isn’t deemed sellable, Sims’ shop will donate it to a local charity. To inspire do-gooders to do even more good, Cairn, which ships out more than 10,000 outdoor boxes every month, offers incentives for its subscribers to donate to the Gear Up, Give Back program. For example, this spring subscribers received a one-month membership to ExpertVoice, a website that offers heavily discounted outdoor gear. “For us, this really completes the circle,” Peterson said. “It’s part of our DNA. We help people discover gear, and we help them give back.”
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In Brookings, the 18-mile Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor has no shortage of recreational opportunities. Photo: Justin Myers
OREGON ’S
BEST
PLACES TO
RETIRE written by Lee Lewis Husk
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Retiring with visions of sitting on a beach sipping Mai Tais? Well, maybe not in Oregon, where you’re more likely to be pulling on a wetsuit to wade into the surf or rubber boots to walk the dog. Oregon isn’t Florida or Arizona, but it does have considerable appeal to those no longer tethered to a paycheck. Whether you’re a 45-year-old techie escaping Silicon Valley, an urbanite fleeing traffic or a rural boomer seeking great health care facilities, you’ll need a place to call home. We’ve found six towns that may tickle your retirement dreams. In selecting this list, we considered the availability and cost of housing, weather, proximity to airports, health care, cultural and recreational amenities, and the history and vibe of the place.
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1
BROOKINGS
Sun Worshippers, Camels & Cacti Not Found Here With 50 inches of rain falling between November and February, Brookings’ wet season is more favorable for webbed feet and mushrooms than bikinis and hot peppers. The Pacific Ocean flanks its west side, the Chetco River runs through it and rain forests nuzzle all around. But the payoff comes in the eight months when the sun shines in this banana belt of the Oregon Coast and an offshore breeze raises temperatures 20 degrees any time of the year. When good weather reigns, residents flock to the golf courses, the Chetco and Rogue rivers for world-class steelhead and salmon fishing, ocean and river kayaking and Azalea Park in downtown Brookings for outdoor concerts. The 18-mile Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor introduces the area’s rugged bluffs, secret coves, migrating birds and whales, and miles of hiking trails. Harris Beach State Park is a local favorite for exploring tidepools and glimpsing rare birds such as the tufted puffin at Bird Island, a National Wildlife Sanctuary. Alfred A. Loeb State Park has the state’s largest myrtle tree forest, and the Redwood Nature Trail is nearby. At the south end of Brookings is the town of Harbor, the port for both cities. With a median home sale price of $294,200, according to Zillow, the housing market is booming. Just 7 miles from the California border, Brookings offers retirees the best of both states. The town boasts a vibrant, if small, art community, local concerts and adult classes at Southwest Oregon Community College. A major caveat to retirees with serious health conditions is the distance to specialty care in Grants Pass and Medford.
1
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1) The scenic corridor offers stunning ocean views. 2) Hiking trails are common in the area.
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3) Harris Beach State Park is a great place to explore tidepools. 4) Bird-watching is big at Harris Beach State Park. Photos: 1) Urdahl Photo; 2) Justin Myers; 3) Urdahl Photo; 4) Steve Dimock
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ROSEBURG
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Weather, Wine & Waterfalls
Often cited as one of Oregon’s top places to retire, Roseburg offers a warm climate, low cost of living, beautiful scenery, tons of recreational opportunities and slow country living. The city lies in Southern Oregon’s Umpqua River Valley, which is less of a bowl and more of a series of valleys and rolling hills. The mild climate results from the buffering influences of the Klamath, Cascade and Coastal ranges. The North Umpqua, part of the Umpqua River that runs from the Cascades through Roseburg to the Pacific Ocean, is famed for fly fishing, hiking and cascading waterfalls—more than a dozen off Highway 138. A diversity of industries, including manufacturing, retail and agriculture, are reimagining the former mill town. Pioneers planted the region’s first wine grapes in the 1880s, and in 1961 Richard Sommer started
HillCrest, Oregon’s oldest estate winery. Thirty varietals from cool-climate pinot noir to robust varietals, like tempranillo and fruity riesling and gewürztraminer, thrive here. Twenty-four wineries can be found in the Umpqua Valley region. The median home sale price is $233,800, according to Zillow. New arrivals will find a welcoming environment for seniors—nearly a quarter of the population. Gardeners will love the area, and those who can’t pluck a tomato from their garden will find plenty of fresh produce at the year-round Saturday Market. The newly remodeled senior center, “Music on the Half Shell” concerts at Stewart Park, acclaimed Douglas County Museum, covered bridges and miles of country roads for biking all add up to a place with serious retirement credentials. MAY | JUNE 2019
1) Fishermen out for spring Chinook salmon on the North Umpqua River near Roseburg. 2) A worker harvests pinot noir wine grapes in a private vineyard on a hillside overlooking the Umpqua Valley near Roseburg. 3) One of the many waterfalls outside of Roseburg. Photos: Robin Loznak
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PRINEVILLE Techies, Cowboys & Growth Abound
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Travel east along Highway 26 from Redmond to Prineville and you’ll pass between large structures housing Apple and Facebook data centers. The giant tech companies’ presence heralds a new day for this former tire-and-timber town. Big trucks still haul horse trailers through town, but sightings of Subarus with bike and kayak racks are becoming common. No longer stagnating from the closure of its mill or the loss of Les Schwab’s headquarters, Prineville was the fourth fastest-growing “micropolitan” (communities between 10,000 and 50,000 population) in the country last year, according to Roger Lee, CEO of Economic Development for Central Oregon. He said that over the past decade Crook County’s tradedsector company investments far eclipse all others in the tri-county area (Deschutes, Crook and Jefferson). The growth spurt has squeezed the housing market, but the city is on the cusp of having enough infrastructure to grow housing, according to Kim Daniels, executive director of the Crook County Chamber and Visitor Center. The median home sale price in Prineville is $288,600, according to Zillow. Those who find a place to live will enjoy a walkable city, no traffic, Central Oregon’s acclaimed high desert climate, parks, bike paths and a small-town environment where people are friendly and involved in their community. The Crooked River Roundup and Rodeo brings the town and thousands of visitors together for the three-day rodeo in June and the fourday horse races in July. The area’s outdoor attractions include boating and fishing on Prineville Reservoir, access to Ochoco National Forest and Crooked River National Grassland where horseback riding, camping and hiking are popular. Farther afield are the colorful Painted Hills, rock climbing and hiking at Smith Rock State Park and the recently opened Crooked River Wetlands, a sustainable wastewater treatment facility that returns clean water to the Crooked River and attracts birds and birdwatchers and walkers to its 5 miles of paths. 1) A crowd listens to the Picnic in the Park Summer Concert Series in Pioneer Park. 2) Hiking to Steins Pillar is a popular activity. 3) The Crooked River Roundup starts with a roundup through downtown.
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4) Prineville is a walkable city with minimal traffic. Photos: Amanda Luelling
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DALLAS
Gold Rush of the Golden Agers
With the median home sale price in Dallas rising by 15 percent last year to $277,800, according to Zillow, prospective residents may want to get moving sooner than later. Inventory is down but much of the new construction is geared for young families and retirees, according to J.D. Shinn, CEO of the Dallas Area Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center. “It’s a laid-back community, not a lot of traffic,” Shinn said. “A few places are open past 10 p.m., but it’s pretty quiet here, so retirees tend to like it.” Dallas lays out a full house of cards for seniors: moderately priced homes, a temperate climate with sunshine two-thirds of the year, proximity to topnotch medical centers, short travel time to major airports, low crime and plenty of outdoor activities. Only 15 miles west of Salem, this historic town in the Willamette Valley was settled in the 1840s and has several old buildings still standing, including the clock-tower-topped Polk County Circuit Court at the town center. Its timber-based economy is
gone, and instead the city has retooled for more diversified growth, including manufacturing, health care and small business. Among the top employers are the Dallas Retirement Village and Polk County government, where Dallas serves as county seat. And then there’s Oregon’s renowned wine country wrapping itself around Dallas, making wine tasting a local pastime. Baskett Sough National Wildlife Refuge just outside the city is perfect for birding and short hikes. The Rickreall Creek System features a 4-mile, east-west path through town and past the Dallas Aquatic Center, two sports complexes and Dallas City Park. For warm-weather fun, residents enjoy the Big D summer concert series. The 130 days of rain give residents an excuse to stop in at renowned Grandma’s Attic quilt shop, take a short drive to Mission Hill Museum in Salem or to McMinnville where Evergreen Aviation and Space Museum hangars the Spruce Goose, WWII fighters, the stealth Blackbird and space rockets. MAY | JUNE 2019
1) Dallas sports a charming, old-fashioned downtown area. Photos: John S. Schulte Photography
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LAKE OSWEGO 1) Lake Oswego is a beautiful Portland suburb with plenty of amenities. Photo: Austin White
From Iron Slag to Upscale Living
If you can afford to live here, Lake Oswego is the motherload of suburban living. Its enticements are many, but let’s start with housing. The city is located in Clackamas County, with the state’s priciest residential real estate. Liz Hartman of the Lake Oswego Chamber of Commerce says that despite the area’s median home sale price of $575,500, according to Zillow, people can still find housing in the $350,000 to $450,000 range if they’re patient, but it won’t be lakefront property. The 415-acre Oswego Lake is privately owned, though water enthusiasts have the Willamette and Tualatin rivers close by. Oswego, as it was originally called, was founded in the 1850s and was home to a sawmill and later Oregon’s first charcoal iron smelter. The iron company, Oregon Iron and Steel, shifted from declining iron production in the early 1900s to subdividing its land and selling homes on the lake. It soon lived up to the company’s marketing slogan, “Live Where You Play.” Families flocked to the area in the 1930s, initiating a
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growth spurt that built out the city and eventually led to the annexation of Lake Grove in 1960 and a name change to Lake Oswego. A walk through downtown today illustrates how far this community has come from its industrial underpinnings. Hanging flower baskets, outdoor sculptures, upscale cafes and shopping speak of prosperity and leisure. Nearly 70 percent of residents hold a bachelor’s degree or higher, and its school system ranks among the best in the state. “People here care a lot about their community and are very active in boards, commissions and outdoor pursuits,” Hartman said, adding that retirees will find much to occupy their time. Its vibrant arts-and-culture scene includes the Lakewood Center for the Performing Arts, an annual wine walk and many galleries and museums, among them the Oswego Heritage House and Museum. Finally, Lake Oswego’s proximity to Portland gives residents their choice of top-tier medical care.
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HOOD RIVER
An Oregon Farm Town with a Big Playground Hood River is a small port town on the Columbia River with outsized amenities for both young and old. Its geographic wonders range from Mount Hood, Oregon’s tallest peak, to the magnificent Columbia Gorge National Scenic Area and fertile valleys that support fruit orchards and grape vineyards. Only an hour outside Portland, the town attracts thousands of visitors. It came into the international spotlight as a wind-sport destination but has evolved far beyond that in the past decade, said Amy Hunter with the Hood River County Chamber of Commerce, adding that tourists support a long list of amenities that wouldn’t otherwise be possible in a city of its size. “Locals reap many rewards, from amazing dining, breweries, cideries and an in-town hospital and medical center,” she said. “For people not necessarily into sports, Hood River has a thriving arts and music scene,” she said. Downtown has several art galleries and the Columbia Center for the Arts, which houses an art gallery, live theater and classes. The Gorge Artists Open Studios Tour is an annual event in May that invites the public into the studios of more than forty artists on both sides of the Columbia River. She said many artists have retired in Hood River. March is Hood River Music Month, with a variety of genres and venues. Its small-town feeling is enhanced by oldfashioned parades. All the downtown shops are independently owned, and more than two dozen buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places, including the Columbia Gorge Hotel and the 1886 Ezra L. Smith Home, which now houses Stoltz Winery’s tasting room and winery. The town is dog-friendly and welcomes families. “It’s a fun place for adult children and grandchildren to visit,” Hunter said. Housing tends to break toward the upscale, according to Maui Meyer of Copper West Real Estate. Zillow lists the median sale price at $445,500, and Meyer said homes are available in the $400,000 range and that the city council is working “day and night to help workers, plus retirees, find homes.”
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1) Hood River sits in the shadow of Mount Hood. 2) The walkable town features art galleries and breweries. 3) Hood River is a jumping-off point for the fruit loop.
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Photos: 1) www.hood-gorge.com; 2) Michael Peterson; 3) Austin Smith/Bear Boot Productions
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Rooted in Agriculture
Granges continue to connect rural communities across Oregon written by Katie Chamberlain photography by Thomas Boyd 68 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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ON A DRIZZLY October morning, Jay Sexton dug through the archives of Marys River Grange with a quiet enthusiasm to show me the roster and photos of the grange’s original members, and poems describing the tightly knit grange community. Founding members of this grange, located in Philomath, heaved logs donated from nearby mills to construct the log cabin hall over several years in the early 1930s. The grange is tightly woven into the community’s landscape: Many of the nearby roads were named for families who were active in the grange during its early years. These historic halls, dotting Oregon’s back roads from Sixes to Enterprise, offer a window into Oregon’s agrarian past—and a glimpse into modern rural life. “People think of us as the building, but it’s more than the building,” said Sexton, steward of Marys River and state grange overseer. Sexton, a retired forest ecology field technician, grandfather and avid gardener, joined the grange in 2010. Like a growing number of modern-day grange members, he’s not a farmer. Later that morning, two young men pulled up and began unloading equipment. Sexton paused. “It could be band practice.” Then he remembered it was the monthly health clinic for uninsured farmworkers, sponsored by neighboring Gathering Together Farm. He lit a fire in the woodstove in the front of the hall to start warming up the room, and the volunteers began setting up curtains and beds. Sexton said the grange provides the hall free of charge for the clinic and Gathering Together rents the materials and coordinates volunteer doctors and nurses. Across the state, granges like Marys River have sustained a modern presence by adapting to meet the Locals gather for game night at Marys River Grange in Philomath.
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needs of Oregon’s rural communities. This manifests in events like the monthly farmworker health clinic in Philomath and barn dances outside Eugene. The shifting demographics in rural communities—younger and more progressive—have infused the organization with new energy in the past decade. Simultaneously, this shift has created new dynamics on the local and state levels as the nonsectarian, nonpartisan organization tests its capacity to make room for a wider spectrum of values. Oliver Kelley, a Minnesota farmer and activist, founded the grange in 1867 as a national fraternal organization to represent the views of rural residents and the agricultural community. Kelley contended that farmers would benefit from an organization representing their interests, due to their independent and scattered nature. He also integrated rituals and a fraternal element—similar to the Masonic Lodge—into the grange culture, which lives on today. “In these modern times, when a person joins the grange, they are automatically at the fourth-degree level (of seven degrees total),” Sexton said. The traditional ritual for the first four degrees takes about four hours, and Sexton described it as a non-religious passion play with lessons from the natural world. A true grassroots organization, grange initiatives have filtered up from the community level to broadly impact rural life, both locally and nationally. Grange resolutions and lobbying efforts, for example, have led to improvements in rural fire protection, postal service and utilities as well as the creation of state agriculture schools, the Extension Service and 4H. Early grange leaders also recognized the importance of social interaction for rural residents. Today, the National Grange seeks to provide “opportunities for individuals and families to develop to their highest potential in order to build stronger communities and states, as well as a stronger nation” through fellowship, service and legislation, according to its website. 70 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
Details on the wall tell the story of Marys River Grange in Philomath.
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ARYS RIVER IS ONE of 167 current active granges in Oregon. At the grange community’s peak in the 1940s, Oregon supported 371 active granges. While the emphasis on agriculture has diminished slightly over the years, it also seems to be one possible key to the organization’s renewal. Broadly, granges continue their strong tradition of serving the needs of their surrounding rural communities, many of which retain agrarian roots. At a recent retreat, Oregon’s state officers defined the grange as “a community organization that answers local needs.” Sexton provides more context. “The reason that’s important is that every grange is idiosyncratic,” he said. “We have a 150-year history of promoting local foods and non-sectarian, nonpartisan face-to-face community.” In many grange halls, shared meals and food remain a primary avenue of this face-to-face connection. Spencer Creek outside Eugene hosts a popular pancake breakfast every summer and a chicken barbecue in the fall. Hood River’s Rockford Grange host monthly “Crop Talks” where area farmers come together to share a meal and network. Grange halls from Smith River to Dorena fill with community members for monthly pancake breakfasts and potlucks. Dawn Merila joined the Smith River Grange twelve years ago, just after she and her husband moved to a 300-acre riverside ranch where they farm hay, raise cattle and sell timber. The Smith River is lined with similar properties, ranging in size from 100 to 500 acres, and the nearest neighbor may be 3 miles away. “These rural communities are pretty family-driven,” Merila said. “It occurred to me that the best way to get familiar with the community was to join the grange.” She introduced herself one Saturday morning and asked how she could help. At the time, the grange had just lost the “egg lady” for the monthly pancake breakfasts and Merila happily stepped in. “Eleven years later, I’m still making eggs,” she laughed.
Jay Sexton brings in firewood to heat up the hall before game night at Marys River Grange.
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The Smith River Grange Hall is located 9 miles from the nearest town of Reedsport and regularly serves 120 people at a monthly pancake breakfast. “It’s a great way of coming together and catching up on the goings-on,” she said. Beyond potlucks and pancake breakfasts, granges have adapted to meet the increasingly diverse interests of their communities—and reveal each grange’s character. At Rockford, the events calendar stretches far and wide— art workshop, contra dance, interfaith meditation, seed-saving workshop and book club. Spencer Creek hosts a popular haunted house, a holiday bazaar and a Christmas program each year, according to lifelong members Malcolm and Cookie Trupp, now in their 70s. Community service remains a strong thread in the grange ethos statewide. Marys River donates backpacks and school supplies to local schools, organizes food drives, has gifted new truck tires to a local veteran, and sponsors meetings for organizations with similar goals. Smith River’s thirty members, primarily longtime residents and loggers, use the funds raised from the pancake breakfasts to sponsor a local high school girls’ softball team and routinely donate between $500 and $1,000 to residents who encounter unexpected hardships. “These small communities really come together,” said Susan Noah, state master and a lifelong grange member. She said the Barlow Gate grange in Wasco County raises nearly $25,000 each year for scholarships for local children through its annual dinner and auction. However, like many community-based organizations, grange membership has declined in recent years, Noah said. “Our grange wanted to close in 2009 due to a lack of membership, and more importantly, a lack of hope,” Sexton said. He was among the fifty members who joined in 2010 to revive Marys River in a push led by longtime farmers John Eveland and Sally Brewer from Gathering Together Farm. Marys River continues to actively recruit new members and has maintained a strong membership of approximately sixty in recent years. 72 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
Before the Marys River renewal effort, the average age for members hovered around 70, with very few active members. Now, the grange has approximately fifteen members who are in their 20s, and the average age has dropped to 35. Many of the new members have direct connections to the local food industry, including young farmers, an artisan meat smoker and a producer of organic livestock food. “The granges I see growing are involved in their communities, have younger members [in their 40s and 50s, or younger], and are more involved in how food is grown and where it comes from,” Noah said. Following a statewide membership drive for the 150-year anniversary in 2017, Oregon granges increased by 200 members statewide and now total 4,700. Over the last decade, these recruitment efforts have attracted younger, more progressive members to an organization rooted in traditional agriculture and values.
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enie Harden raises dairy sheep, a cross between East Friesan and Lacaune, and grows vegetables on a 20acre property off Lorane Highway that winds through pastoral rolling hills southwest of Eugene. She joined the nearby Spencer Creek Grange thirteen years ago, when her now 15-year-old daughter was a toddler, with the goal of meeting like-minded parents. As a new member, she started a family film night, which ended up attracting more elderly residents than children. She pushed for the annual
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A rescue class takes place at Spencer Creek Grange near Eugene. Cookie and Malcolm Trupp are lifelong members of Spencer Creek Grange. Judy Hays-Eberts reads to Taigue Weedman at Marys River Grange in Philomath.
pancake breakfast to begin using locally sourced food and revived the nowthriving barn dances in the grange hall. “I was inspired by an old painted sign advertising the Old Time Fiddlers from the 1980s,” she said. “It captured my imagination.” The barn dances have a storied history at Spencer Creek and regularly draw families from across the county. “The grange has many functions in the community and historically has supported agriculture,” said Stephanie Schiffgens, a grange member who raises Gotland sheep on nearby Appletree Farm. “[The barn dances] offer a way to get to know neighbors and provide a safe environment for families in our community to come together.” Since its inception, the grange has held space for civil discourse through a nonpartisan, non-sectarian frame. Women have always been full and equal members of the grange, rights that preceded the national suffrage movement. At annual state sessions, delegates can introduce resolutions created at the community granges for adoption at the state level. “I feel like our state sessions are very congenial,” Noah said. “We enjoy our parliamentary procedure.” Sexton identified Marys River as an active, progressive grange that’s trying to be relevant and make a difference with local food and community. To this end, Marys River actively initiates resolutions, from a prohibition on gerrymandering to allowing grange hall renters to serve alcohol at events. Other local granges, like Smith River, tend to stay out of the policy arena and focus primarily on providing a community touchstone.
However, the integration of newer members, who often hold opposing values and political views to the traditional grange culture, at times proves rocky. “We have to work with different, newer ideas that didn’t come on the floor in the past,” said Cookie Trupp, currently lady assistant at Spencer Creek and state lecturer. “It’s about learning how to work together and disagree, or agree to disagree and leave still being friends in the grange.” It’s an organization where ranchers and passionate environmentalists debate contentious policies such as wolf management, pesticide usage and GMO policies. “We’re a perfect microcosm of this country,” Harden said. “But [the grange] offers a structure for our country to heal. It was designed that way from the beginning.” Harden also started the Spencer Creek Growers Market, a weekly farmers market at the grange hall and an independent nonprofit. She later delved into the grange’s legislative sphere, navigating political tensions at Spencer Creek and, later, during Agriculture Committee meetings at the state grange sessions on issues ranging from the organization’s position on GMOs to the management of wolves in Eastern Oregon. The tension is not always easy to hold, however. Harden did not renew her grange membership last year, though she still continues to manage the Spencer Creek Growers Market. “I still thoroughly believe in the potential of the grange to heal our nation,” Harden said. “Our struggles are indicative of so many.” On a warm Friday evening in late September, a well-loved local caller, Woody Lane, gave rapid-fire instructions for a square dance at the Spencer Creek grange hall. Children and teenagers joined hands and formed small circles with adults, deftly switching partners and spinning happily. Dizzy and flushed, the dancers collapsed onto wood benches lining the dance floor as the song ended, catching their breath before the next dance. The atmosphere was light and welcoming—the spirit of the grange filling the well-worn dance floor. 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 73
CIRCLES IN THE SAND photography by Joe Kline WHEN THE TIDE is out, Denny Dyke’s work begins. He designs, draws and decorates labyrinths in the sand along the Oregon Coast, mostly in Bandon at Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint. What started as a walking meditation turned into a public art installation—this year, Dyke and his team of volunteers will create more than forty labyrinths in the sand, inviting the public to walk through the circles and waiting for his creations to wash away as the tide rolls in.
Labyrinth artist Denny Dyke uses a rake to draw the outline of one of his Dreamfield labyrinth creations at Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint in Bandon. The sites for Dyke’s labyrinths vary based on tide and sand conditions, and he and his team and volunteers usually spend approximately two hours creating a labyrinth before a circle walk event opens to the public. Dyke starts the process by planning an entrance and exit to the labyrinth, and then decides in the moment where the path leads.
FROM TOP Jacque Ferreira adds details to a sand mandala in the labyrinth at Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint. “I’ve collected shells my whole life,” Ferreira said. “Meeting Denny and getting the opportunity to share my shells has been really fun to me.” Dyke uses a rake to draw the outline of one of his creations.
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James Ferreira uses a rake to outline a shell mandala made by his wife, Jacque. Ferreira is a member of Dyke’s team who often designs the labyrinth alongside him. After seeing a Circles in the Sand poster in Bandon about two years ago, Ferreira wanted to check it out and has been drawing with Dyke ever since. He started by doing some of the basic grooming work to fill in outlines, and now creates sections of the design himself.
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Circles in the Sand team members and volunteers groom and outline the labyrinth at Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint.
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FROM TOP Dyke talks about the labyrinth and walking meditation before opening it for the public to walk. Dyke said he has used labyrinths as a meditation tool since 2003. Dyke hugs Joni Pitcher at the entrance of the labyrinth during the public circle walk. Dyke or a member of his team stands at the entrance to the labyrinth offering a polished stone to visitors.
ABOVE Visitors walk the finished Circles in the Sand labyrinth at Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint. FAR RIGHT, FROM TOP Six-year-old Nora Diaz runs though the labyrinth. According to Dyke, walking the full labyrinths usually averages around a quarter to a half-mile in distance. The evening tide begins to wash away a section of the Circles in the Sand labyrinth.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 84 ADVENTURE 86 LODGING 90 TRIP PLANNER 92
pg. 86 Find the best climbing spots around Oregon.
Cliff Agocs
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 98
B O O K YO U R R E F R E S H
PH OTO J E RE M Y F E N S K E
O R E G O N ’ S W I L D E S T C O A S T AWA I T S
MODERN CABINS AIRSTREAMS L U X E RV S I T E S
W W W. BAY P O I N T L A N D I N G . C O M @ BAY P O I N T L A N D I N G O R E G O N ’ S W I L D E S T C OA S T
travel spotlight
Colby Farrell, president of the Whiskey Gulch Gang, helps organize Sel’s Brewery’s annual gathering.
Travel Spotlight
Whet Your Whistle Canyon City’s Sel’s Brewery opens the bar just once a year written and photographed by Joni Kabana OREGON IS FULL of spirited breweries, but have you ever heard of a bar operating just one weekend a year? Head to Canyon City the weekend of June 7 and 8, when the old stone Sel’s Brewery will swing open its barroom doors and let you down a pint inside this astonishing old historical landmark. Thanks to a band of brothers—the Whiskey Gulch Gang established in 1922—Sel’s Brewery has long been the gathering place for the annual ’62 Days celebration, commemorating the year gold was discovered in the area. Get ready to kick up your heels to live music, run in the Gold Rush Run, cheer for the bed race, and witness the annual staged hanging right in the middle of town. Pull up a chair next to a local, and you might even hear a story or two about this fascinating little gem of a town.
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adventure
Climbing the Walls
One guide gives his list of the state’s best rock-climbing destinations written by Peter Madsen ANCIENT SEISMIC UPHEAVAL and and the erosive work of bygone lakes and rivers have carved many of Oregon’s striking landscapes. As a result, pockets of great climbing opportunities abound, according to Cliff Agocs, a rock guide certified by the American Mountain Guides Association. Also the co-owner of Timberline Mountain Guides, Agocs, a Bend resident, has traveled Oregon extensively in search of new climbing opportunities. And he’s yet to climb everything. Most of Oregon’s climbing destinations are home to local climbing communities that set and maintain interesting routes. Respecting the local climbing ethics is one of the keys to enjoying an area without “blowing it up,” Agocs said. A great place to begin research is www.mountainproject.com, an REI-funded online climbing guide. As a general rule, Oregon’s wealth of climbing opportunities are best enjoyed in spring and fall, when summer heat and vacationing hordes don’t crowd overheated rock walls. Winter allows some climbing, too, but shorter days spell narrow windows of daylight. Here, Agocs provides readers with some of Oregon’s top climbing destinations, including route varieties, rock type and other considerations. CENTRAL OREGON Every list of Oregon climbing destinations begins with Smith Rock State Park, which straddles the Crooked River near Terrebonne. Smith Rock is the birthplace of American sport climbing, the discipline in which climbers install permanent bolts in the walls through which they thread safety ropes as they ascend. At Smith Rock, a supportive, friendly climbing community maintains bolts and anchors while park employees maintain trails. Routes offer something for everyone, including a mini bouldering feature for first-day beginners and multipitch challenges that attract the world’s best climbers. Recently, there has been a resurgence of route setting in The Marsupials section, accessible by a half-hour hike from the parking lot and rimmed with pinnacles and summits distinct from the other walls. The lower gorge section offers routes for traditional climbing—which is similar to sport climbing but instead of permanent bolts climbers place cams and other temporary protections—and crack climbing, which involves using one’s hands and feet to fill space in a crack between two columns. For more information, visit www.smithrock.com
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Austin White
Smith Rock State Park
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Smith Rock State Park is the birthplace of American sport climbing.
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adventure
Rock climbing in Oregon takes many forms, including crack climbing, which involves using one’s hands and feet to fill space in a crack between two columns.
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CENTRAL OREGON
Trout Creek North of Madras and framed by Mount Jefferson, Trout Creek is as striking in its beauty as it is unique for the climbing opportunities found in its vertical, hexagonal basalt columns. The two types of climbing here are crack climbing and stemming. Stemming involves applying counter pressure to walls, as if inside a chimney. “Climbing Trout Creek is very physical,” Agocs said, adding that most of the area’s routes begin with an advanced difficulty rating. “It’s not a learning environment for crack climbing,” Agocs said. “It’s a place you go once your crack climbing has reached an advanced level.” The climbers who frequent Trout Creek are inclined to share, whether it’s gear or leaving a rope in place for you to use. “It’s a fun vibe,” Agocs said. “The joke is that if you climb four pitches you’ve done your job. If you get eight, you’re a superhero.” For updates, visit www.facebook.com/friendsoftroutcreek.
WILLAMETTE VALLEY
Wolf Rock In the forested western slope of the Cascade Range, not far from Belknap Springs, juts Wolf Rock—the state’s largest free-standing monolith. An ancient volcanic plug, Wolf Rock complements Smith Rock as one of the state’s best places for moderate to advanced, bolted, multi-pitch climbs. Wolf Rock is home to about twenty routes, including the state’s most notoriously difficult—the Barad-Dûr route. (“BaradDûr” is a nod to how Wolf Rock’s dark, foreboding profile resembles a dark tower in the Lord of the Rings fantasy series.) Despite the name, climbing it earns “a bit of bragging rights,” Agocs said. A slew of intermediate sport routes have recently been installed. Visit www.oregonchoss.blogspot.com for a list.
SOUTHERN OREGON
Cliff Agocs
The Callahans Located outside Roseburg, The Callahans is home to walls, towers and other formations of sandstone, a rare rock in Oregon. “Sandstone is a pretty good treat,” Agocs said. The Callahans’ very old, hard and often wet rock is found on land owned by Weyerhaeuser Company, which harvests timber but allows climbers to access the rock. Here, observing good etiquette, such as not parking in front of gates and being mindful of logging trucks on the roads, is key. The Callahans has more than 100 well-bolted routes that are suitable for intermediate and advanced climbers. Visit www.wyrecreation.com for recreation permits.
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ROOMS
With the exception of the four-person Cyclist Haven, homes are designed to fit a family of six (Fido included, the village is pet-friendly), with three queen-sized beds—one in the master bedroom and two in the loft—locally made McRae and Sons furniture, airy vaulted ceilings, generous closet space, and a roomy bathroom with full-sized shower.
FEATURES
While it’s tempting to check out a stack of board games and DVDs from the front office and stay in, take advantage of all the coastal wonders within a short drive or bike ride. Soak in the dramatic views at Cape Meares State Scenic Viewpoint, book a deep-sea fishing trip with Garibaldi Charters, take a beautiful shoreline-hugging sunset excursion with the Oregon Coast Scenic Railroad, or explore nearby Tillamook, home to the famous Tillamook Creamery.
DINING
If craving a hot breakfast and lots of it, head fifteen minutes north to Offshore Grill and Coffee House in Rockaway Beach for packed plates of oyster hash and fresh-baked biscuits with sausage gravy. If starting the day with a Cape Meares hike, opt for crab cakes and eggs and the house flapjacks at Blue Agate Cafe in Oceanside. Ten minutes south of Sheltered Nook, in lively Tillamook, a tour and cheese tasting at Tillamook Creamery is a must, as is an oversized scoop of Oregon Strawberry ice cream on a chocolate-dipped cone. Stock up on picnic provisions and visit the petting zoo at Blue Heron Creamery, and sample wild ales at De Garde Brewing’s downtown tasting room, then back to Bay City for freshly shucked raw oysters and bowls of cioppino at The Fish Peddler.
AMENITIES
If you prefer to eat in, each tiny home’s kitchen is stocked with full-sized appliances, dishes, baking supplies and everyday essentials like a French press and microwave popcorn. Radiant heat and electric fireplaces keep things cozy on stormy nights, each home’s private deck has a gas barbecue for grilling local oysters and Dungeness crabs, and technophiles will appreciate the flatscreen TV, Smart DVD player, and private WiFi network. Should you wish to sip a refreshing Oregon craft brew while schooling everyone at Flickin’ Chicken, the office sells beer by the pint, bottle and growler.
Lodging
Sheltered Nook
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Each tiny home at Sheltered Nook has a distinct personality. The homes are small, but all offer the comforts of home. The eco-friendly village attracts visitors from all over.
written by Jen Stevenson IF TINY HOUSE, BIG LIVING is your HGTV catnip, or your favorite recurring daydream is to KonMari all of your worldly possessions and downsize to a 385-square-foot dwelling, this Bay City tiny home hamlet is just the place to hole up for a beautiful late spring weekend. Husbandand-wife team Hank and Dee Harguth’s first foray into the hospitality industry was in 2005, when they began hosting bicyclists making their two-wheeled way along picturesque Highway 101. A simple bed-andbreakfast followed in 2013, and today, the Harguths’ vision has evolved into an eco-friendly village that attracts road trippers both near and far, charmed by the novelty of tiny home life, the resident ducks and chickens that casually waddle the 3-acre property, the misty morning walks through 200-acre Kilchis Point nature reserve a mere block away, and the proximity to popular coastal destinations like Cape Meares and Nehalem Bay State Park. Each of Sheltered Nook’s six tiny homes—The Gardener, Beach Comber, Mermaids, Gone Fishin’, Cyclist Haven, and The Birder—has its own distinct personality, plus all the creature comforts of home. Breakfast baskets fortify guests for a long day of beachcombing and birding and the nine-hole disc golf course, and cornhole boards beckon. Come dusk, share stories and pints around the communal fire pit before retiring to your pocket-sized pad to read a good book by the electric fireplace. 7860 WARREN ST. BAY CITY www.shelterednook.com
From Farm to Cup Supporting farmers and their communities that grow our coffee around the world.
To learn more visit us at... thehumanbean.com
Steamboat Inn North Umpqua River
Disconnect to Reconnect
Lodging and Fine Dining on the River thesteamboatinn.com 541.498.2230 Photo by knoxphotography.com Steambot Inn operates under a Special Use Permit from the Umpqua National Forest
trip planner
The Captivating Coast The northern coast of Oregon is more than just Haystack Rock written by Sheila G. Miller
PICKING YOUR FAVORITE part of the Oregon coastline is like picking your favorite flavor of ice cream. It’s all pretty great, and some of it depends on what you grew up with. This spring, I decided it was time to mix it up a bit. As a native Portlander, I spent my youth near the northern border of the state. But there are wonders as you leave your comfort zone. I set out to find them. From Gearhart to Garibaldi, we spent some time exploring the northern Oregon coastline. It’s a lovely drive filled with hidden gems. Along the northern coast, Highway 101 winds through lush, green state parks and then cuts inland to Nehalem Bay, passing boat marinas and small antiques shops and running parallel to a railroad track along which an old steamer runs.
Cannon Beach offers captivating views of Haystack Rock, and so much more.
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trip planner
Day
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Seaside Visitors Bureau
Start in Gearhart. This is a charming little hamlet just minutes outside of Seaside, and it’s where much of the moneyed Portland crowd goes on the weekends. The shingled, white-trimmed homes all seem to match, and the center of town features a few restaurants, art galleries and antique shops. The beach here is particularly quiet and gorgeous. If you’re a golfer, there are several golf courses nearby, some private—Gearhart Golf Links is a great option at $85 for a round in the high season, and is the oldest golf course west of the Mississippi. In 2012, McMenamins opened Gearhart Hotel adjacent to the golf course, and it’s a perfect addition to the area. The Sand Trap Pub is an easy spot to grab dinner after a day at the coast or on the course. When you tire of Gearhart’s quiet, head for Seaside, which is anything but low-key. This city is big on low-brow fun, and is the hub for much of the northern coast with all the amenities for a great vacation. Mustsees include the Seaside Aquarium, where you can feed fish to seals, as well as the several blocks of arcade and amusement rides and a carousel in the mall on Broadway Street, the main drag. But Seaside is growing up. While it’s been attraction-heavy for decades, Seaside is adding good restaurants, interesting bars and some new, hip shops. For a good breakfast or lunch, try Firehouse Grill. Its industrial style is cool, and its menu is filled with homestyle food and breakfast drinks. Or head to Bell Buoy, where you can never go wrong. This seafood store always has the freshest crab and other delicacies that make visiting the coast so special. Head out from Seaside on the one-way hike along Tillamook Head. It’s a challenging 6 miles that ends in Ecola State Park near Cannon Beach. The hike is along a promontory used by William Clark and members of the expedition, after Clark split from Lewis in 1806. Ecola State Park is just the tip of the proverbial iceberg in terms of state parks along the northern Oregon coast. Ecola features 9 miles of coastline and a large network of trails, but head just south, to Cannon Beach, that iconic beach town with Haystack Rock standing sentinel in the surf. Look for the sand castle contest this June, which is entering its 55th year. After all the outdoor exploring, Cannon Beach is the perfect spot to end your first day. Grab a drink at the Cannon Beach Distillery, the new Pelican Brewing pub or Public Coast Brewing. Or, head over to Cannon Beach Hardware and Public House, also known as the Screw & Brew, and pick up some paint and a pint. If you’re looking for fine dining, The Irish Table is a great option—offering fresh, farm-to-table foods with an Irish twist. Or check out Newmans at 988, which has all kinds of fresh seafood on the menu every day. If you’re interested in the seafood without a side of atmosphere and fine dining, swing by Ecola Seafoods Restaurant & Market. Finally, Cannon Beach truly has some of the best hotel options on the coast. The Stephanie Inn, with views of the ocean and Haystack Rock, has been charming guests since 1993. It is steps from the sand and a perfect coastal retreat. Or try the Tolovana Inn, which has big rooms and a great view of the ocean.
Don Frank
SAND TRAP • SEALS • SEAFOOD
FROM TOP In Seaside, the main drag has arcade games and rides, as well as a carousel. The Seaside Aquarium is a mustsee. Ecola State Park has hiking trails and 9 miles of coastline.
NORTH HIGHWAY 101, OREGON
trip planner
EAT Bell Buoy, Seaside www.bellbuoyofseaside.com Firehouse Grill, Seaside www.firehousegrill.org Pelican Brewing, Cannon Beach www.pelicanbrewing.com Public Coast Brewing, Cannon Beach www.publiccoastbrewing.com
Day
Mo’s, Cannon Beach www.moschowder.com
SURF • ANTIQUES • RAILROADS
The Bistro, Cannon Beach www.thebistrocannonbeach.com Big Wave Cafe, Manzanita www.oregonsbigwavecafe.com
STAY McMenamins Gearhart Hotel www.mcmenamins.com Tolovana Inn www.tolovanainn.com Stephanie Inn www.stephanieinn.com Old Wheeler Hotel www.oldwheelerhotel.com Coast Cabins, Manzanita www.coastcabins.com
PLAY Oregon Coast Railriders www.ocrailriders.com Oregon Coast Scenic Railroad www.oregoncoastscenic.org Antiquing in Wheeler www.visittheoregoncoast.com/ cities/wheeler Visiting the state parks www.oregonstateparks.org The Winery at Manzanita www.thewineryatmanzanita.com Kayak in Nehalem www.tbnep.org/water-trails.php
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After a hearty breakfast at the greatest tradition on the northern coast, Pig ’n’ Pancake, head south on 101 for more beautiful state parks. First up, Hug Point State Recreation Site, which offers a cove beach and a seasonal waterfall, as well as caves and tide pools. Before there was a highway along the coast, stagecoaches traveled this area of the beach, and you can still see wheel ruts in the rock here along the original road. But be aware— when the tide comes in you could get stuck, so check tides before you explore this area. Continue your tour of Oregon’s wonders at Oswald West State Park, which is named for the governor who established the beach highway law that protected our state’s beaches as public land. It features Short Sand Beach, a favorite for surfers and just a half-mile walk through old-growth forest to the stunning sands. If you’re a surfer, you can rent the gear at Cleanline Surf in Seaside and join the party, or hike up Neahkahnie Mountain or Cape Falcon. There are more than a dozen miles of hiking trails through rainforest here. Lunch in Manzanita, a perfect example of the laidback Oregon coastal town. Here you can grab lunch at Wanda’s Cafe & Bakery (just finishing up renovations), then sit on the patio at The Winery at Manzanita and indulge in a glass of wine and s’mores by the firepit. Or try the Big Wave Cafe for fresh seafood such as crab cakes and razor clams. You could explore Manzanita for the rest of the day, but if it’s time to move on, don’t miss Nehalem Bay State Park. Wind through a forested area to reach this secluded destination, with its paved bike paths and a great beach area. Head inland to Nehalem and Wheeler, both of which have adorable “main street” locations MAY | JUNE 2019
FROM LEFT Neahkahnie Mountain is a perfect hiking spot. Rockaway Beach’s Twin Rocks are a photo-ready formation.
along Highway 101 that feature boutiques and antique shops. Wheeler has two neat antique shops—Wheeler Station and Wheeler Treasures—filled with strange and glorious finds. You could call it a day and stay the night at the Old Wheeler Hotel, the historic center of town with rehabbed rooms that face the beautiful bay. If you keep going, you’ll be rewarded with more adventures. New this year, the Oregon Coast Railriders offers a two-hour pedal along the Port of Tillamook Bay Railroad tracks (the other option starts in Bay City, just north of Tillamook). Travel past the Nehalem River, through trees and across a steel bridge. You can also kayak on the water in the Nehalem Watershed, thanks to the Tillamook Estuary Partnership, which operates water trails throughout Tillamook County. Or head down to Garibaldi and Rockaway Beach. The Oregon Coast Scenic Railroad runs trains all summer between the two cities. The trains run along tracks once owned by the Southern Pacific and Port of Tillamook Bay railroads. Both Garibaldi and Rockaway Beach are charming towns to check out once you’re off the train. In Rockaway Beach, head down to the beach to see Twin Rocks, an interesting formation in the water. In Garibaldi, check out the port, where working fishermen make a living. The port also has restaurants with tons of fresh seafood and a public boat launch for those who want to charter a boat and head out crabbing or fishing. Finish off your day with a trip to the Garibaldi Maritime Museum to get a bit more context for the beautiful, and dangerous, seascapes you’ve been admiring.
Enjoy an Adventure Getaway to the Kitsap Peninsula ...the Natural Side of Puget Sound
TM
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Kitsap Peninsula
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Baymont Inn & Suites - Bremerton 360-377-7666 | tinyurl.com/ybtb6rgf Best Western Plus Silverdale Beach Hotel 360-698-1000 | silverdalebeachhotel.com Comfort Inn on the Bay - Port Orchard 360-895-2666 | tinyurl.com/h8ovrzw Fairfield Inn & Suites - Bremerton 360-377-2111 | tinyurl.com/y7pg95bo Guesthouse Inn & Suites - Poulsbo 360-697-4400 | redlion.com/guesthouse
Hampton Inn & Suites - Hilton - Bremerton 360-405-0200 | bremertonsuites.hamptoninn.com Oxford Suites - Silverdale Waterfront 888-698-7848 | oxfordsuitessilverdale.com Poulsbo Inn & Suites - Little Norway 800-597-5151 | poulsboinn.com Bainbridge Island Lodging Association DestinationBainbridge.com Airbnb - airbnb.com. Type in the name of town
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WINERY
GOLD
EST. 1934
northwest destination
Touring the Tri-Cities
The Tri-Cities are close to the Red Mountain AVA, which means plenty of great wine.
Learn your atomic history and so much more in Eastern Washington’s biggest surprise written by Kevin Max
THIS TRIP MARKED the first time I had spent meaningful time in Tri-Cities (Kennewick, Pasco and Richland). I came for the history and the story of the Hanford Site B Reactor and found an engaging culture all around Hanford. If you’re as fascinated with the history of WWII as I am, the Manhattan Project National Historic Park at Hanford nuclear site is on your agenda. Schedule your tour in advance, as the free four-hour experience begins with a short film at the visitor center on the edge of the park before boarding a bus to the site 40 stark miles northwest. The experience still feels a little cloak and dagger more than seventy years after its mission began. One of three pieces of the once-secret Manhattan Project— the other sites are Oak Ridge, Tennessee and Los Alamos, New Mexico—the Hanford site was built in 1943 as the primary location where scientists would enrich uranium to weapongrade plutonium for bombs that would end WWII and Hitler’s reign. The B Reactor at Hanford was the first large-scale nuclear 98 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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reactor built. The United States government was concerned that the Nazis were quickly working toward the same bomb technology, but to advance the Aryan race. In 1942, physicist Enrico Fermi, at the University of Chicago and working under the Manhattan Project, created the first nuclear reactor on a small scale under the stands of the university’s football field. Students attending the university’s football games, blissfully ignorant of what was directly below them, were unwitting subjects of an uncertain experiment. The Hanford site became a national park in 2014, when President Obama signed the authorizing bill into law, and since then it offers tours on select days, April through November. The history and the photo opportunities are both fantastic. Stay on the atomic theme at the new REACH Museum in Richland, where one of its standing exhibits is Hanford, The Manhattan Project and the Cold War. Here you’ll encounter cultural icons of that
BE MORE COOL Looking for award-winning wines that rival the Bordeaux region of France? Yeah, we’ve got that. We’ve got more cool.
VisitTri-Cities.com
EAT Drumheller’s Restaurant www.lodgeatcolumbiapoint.com Upchurch Winery www.upchurchvineyard.com Hedges Winery www.hedgesfamilyestate.com Atomic Ale Brewpub www.atomicalebrewpub.com
STAY The Lodge at Columbia Point www.lodgeatcolumbiapoint.com
PLAY
Atomic Heritage Foundation
TRI-CITIES, WASHINGTON
northwest destination
Hanford Site B Reactor https://manhattanprojectbreactor. hanford.gov
Water2Wine Cruise www.water2winecruises.com Hiking at Badger Mountain www.friendsofbadger.org Sacagawea Heritage Trail www.visittri-cities.com/heritage/ sacagawea-heritage-trail
Lisa Monteagudo/MM3 Designs
REACH Museum www.visitthereach.org
era—in news clippings, letters, posters and photographs. This beautiful space overlooks the Columbia River and pays homage to the Columbia Basin. My home base in the Tri-Cities is The Lodge at Columbia Point, a winsome property on the edge of the Columbia River. Firepits, a pool, hot tubs and a spa and Drumheller’s Food & Drink put The Lodge squarely in the category of luxury escape. Badger Mountain within the Badger Mountain Centennial Preserve is only a short drive west from The Lodge and is the perfect start to any day in Tri-Cities. From its Westgate Trailhead, hike or climb to the top of the 1,571-foot peak. The Skyline or Langdon trails are beautiful out-andback trail runs or hikes for views of the surrounding undulations. For lunch, kick it up a notch at Atomic Ale Brewpub in Richland. With an atomicthemed naming system, you’ll encounter such beers as Atomic Amber, Plutonium Porter and Oppenheimer Oatmeal Stout. 100 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Hanford nuclear plant is one of the pieces of the Manhattan Project National Historic Park. Wine tasting in the Red Mountain AVA is a must. Ride horses through wine country with Red Mountain Trails.
Thin crust pizza from the wood-fired oven is the way to go. One aspect of the Tri-Cities not immediately apparent is its proximity to compelling wine regions, too. Red Mountain AVA is 15 miles west of Richland and home to such wines as Col Solare, Upchurch, Kiona and Hedges. You can easily sip for days here and never taste anything but perfection. This small, warmclimate AVA comprises a little more than 4,000 acres from which the state’s best cabernet sauvignons, merlots and syrahs are made. If you want to get the most from the terroir, hop on a horse and amble through wine country with Red Mountain Trails. Alternatively, take a romantic twist and hire horses during summer months for a Summit Dinner in a secluded knoll. By trip’s end, I learned more about the Manhattan Project, America’s atomic history and Tri-Cities’ best aspects—its trails, world-class wine and local beer.
SINCE 1983
208-634-6366 | www.hellscanyonraft.com Snake River | Salmon River | 3-6 day overnight trips | May-Sept.
1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
Eugene Springfield
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Ontario
Bend Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
18 Britt Pavilion
50 Free Range Equipment
84
Sel’s Brewery
22 Pilot House Distilling
52 Long Timber Brewing Co.
86
Trout Creek
24 Vali’s Alpine Restaurant
54 Pacific Maritime Heritage Center
90
Sheltered Nook
42 Portland Timbers
56 Yo Soy Candle
92
Oregon Coast Scenic Railroad
44 Crow’s Shadow Institute of the Arts
58 The Gear Fix
98
The Tri-Cities, Washington
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Until Next Time
A Spiritual Journey Through Oregon written by Miki Markovich | illustrated by Allison Bye
I FELT AS IF I was drowning in an ocean of molasses. The loss was staggering: a house, my 14-year-old dog, my 17-year-old cat and the fiery soul who raised me, all gone within a matter of weeks. To say my usual lust for life was lackluster was an understatement. My soul had run empty. I desperately turned to Oregon, in all her glory, for beauty, hope and spiritual healing. For as long as I can remember, whenever I’ve craved balance or perspective, I’ve gravitated to water, which is why my spiritual pilgrimage began in January at Deane’s Oceanfront Lodge in Yachats. Seeking solitude and uninterrupted reflection, my sole companion was Randy, the little black Shih Tzu I had just inherited. Heavy with the weight of loss, I had no desire to interact with anyone—not the people I loved and definitely not any strangers. The lodge owners, Glen and Katherine Aukstikalnis, felt very much like family I never knew I had, providing me with needed information, a canine welcome bag and, when the veneer of normalcy wore thin and tears fell, hugs. My accommodations had a much-needed, soul-soothing ocean view and direct beach access. As the electric wood stove, glass brick shower and pop art décor raised my spirits, I heated Grandma-ma’s last batch of homemade chicken noodle soup on the vintage kitchenette stove top, missing the soul whose hands had chopped, spiced and simmered this favorite of mine. Soon after my beach trip, the mountains came calling, so I headed to Camp Sherman. Nestled along the Metolius River, this picturesque spot provided everything needed for a lifeaffirming respite—majestic views, slow pace, gorgeous hiking trails and easy disconnection from wifi and cell service. Feeling a bit like Goldilocks with seemingly endless choices during my visit, I was directed to the perfect cabin by Roger
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White, the owner of Camp Sherman Store and expert of everything Metolius. Most nights I chose to stay in for meals, cooking inside, grilling outside or snacking on smoked salmon and cheese paired with wine from the store. My days were spent seeking beauty through my camera lens at Jack Creek and Canyon Creek, two stunning places that filled my heart with the gratitude of simply being alive. The third stop on my healing itinerary was Breitenbush Hot Springs. Experts at nourishing the mind and body, the community, the cuisine, the amenities and the programs are clearly made with heart to feed the soul. Here I walked the labyrinth, spying a precious chunk of rich garnet in the center; meditated alone in the free-standing, light-filled sanctuary with heated floors and forest views, and bought a life-changing book, The Art of Non-Conformity by Chris Guillebeau, in the gift shop. It was that last night under cover of darkness, however, that I felt truly alive. Although I’ve hailed Oregon as home for a decade now, it may be my Tennessee roots that caused me trepidation about the “swimsuit optional” policy at the stunning natural hot spring pools and steam sauna. Crouched low, I slid out of my swimsuit and slunk into the silky water, stretching luxuriously under the light of the moon with a giddiness and freedom I’d never known. It was then I knew I would be okay.
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May | June
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