TRIP PLANNER: MOTHER’S DAY IN CENTRAL OREGON PG. 86
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Close to everything but away from it all, Discovery West is conveniently located in the heart of Bend’s west side. New custom homes are intermingled with nature, trails and bike paths—and close to schools, parks, shops and restaurants. Coming soon, a vibrant community plaza, specialty retail and even more amenities will continue to differentiate this unique neighborhood. Discover your best Central Oregon lifestyle by learning more at discoverywestbend.com or visiting our Discovery Pod at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane.
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PARADISE IS A PEDAL STROKE AWAY Whether you lust for jumps and wall rides or want a mellow pedal in the woods, Bend has more than 300 miles of singletrack of every flavor.
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Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory Main Streets Make the Willamette River Their Home Mt. Hood Territory’s main streets don’t just overlook the Willamette River — they connect you to it! Each has its own take on shopping and dining just blocks from the river, which offers recreation opportunities galore along its 187-mile Willamette River Water Trail tying them all together. MILWAUKIE MAIN STREET:
New Access and Reasons to Visit
Milwaukie Bay Park
Milwaukie’s Main Street has experienced a boom in restaurants, retail and access. The MAX Orange Line Light Rail offers easy transit to or from Portland, and the Trolley Trail makes biking or walking between Gladstone and Milwaukie a beautiful, sculpture-filled breeze.
Portland area. For French-Asian fusion, visit Ovation Bistro, or head north for the Beer Store, offering more than its name, including Impossiburgers. And pick up a locally made memory from Made in Milwaukie.
Arriving from either, a vibrant wall-sized mural welcomes you, signaling you’ve made it to restaurants Milwaukie Station Food Cart Pod and, across the street, Decibel Sound & Drink, recognized as a top cocktail bar in the
One block west of Main Street, Milwaukie Bay Park anchors downtown, complete with boat launch and an amphitheater-style lawn for picnics and performances.
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DOWNTOWN LAKE OSWEGO:
Sculptures Woven Throughout Upscale Shopping and Dining Across the river from Milwaukie, downtown Lake Oswego sits at the northern tip of Willamette Falls and Landings Heritage Area. This Area includes destinations with historical significance, Lake Oswego being no exception. Learn about its iron industry history while exploring the Oswego Iron Heritage Trail, which guides visitors to seven sites, including the Oswego Iron Furnace and the Iron Company Workers’ Cottage, now a museum. Today the city’s downtown is known for upscale boutique shopping and dining. In Lake View Village across from Oswego Lake, find reputable local shops, such as Grapevine and Mapel Boutique, both offering personal styling and shopping services. Discover distinctive home décor at Wishbone. And for lakefront dining, try Five Spice Seafood + Wine Bar or Pizzeria sul Lago. Take a 0.5-mile walk to George Rogers Park on the Willamette River, one of the city’s many beautiful parks. Along the way, notice unique outdoor sculptures that are part of Lake Oswego’s Gallery Without Walls. At the park, you can rent seasonal kayaks and SUPs from Alder Creek Kayak, which also offers in-season tours to Hog Island.
HISTORIC WILLAMETTE MAIN STREET: Where Wine Greets the Waterfront
West Linn’s Historic Willamette Main Street sparkles with small town charm. Whatever your palate, there are restaurants along Willamette Falls Drive with plenty of outdoor seating. Wine star Allium Bistro creates dishes with local, seasonal ingredients and pairs them with 58+ wines by the glass. Other options include bevvies at Willamette Ale & Cider House (home of Queen Orchard Cidery), Thai, Mexican and Chinese cuisine, sushi, burgers, pizza and coffee bars. Visit the historic Leisman/Elligsen House and pick up the Historic Willamette Walking Tour Booklet, which guides visitors through the Willamette National Historic District. A quick 0.3-mile walk due south
Downtown Oregon City
of the district will take you to Willamette Park, where the Tualatin River meets the Willamette River. eNRG Kayaking opens a seasonal annex here and rents flatwater boats and SUPs to explore the beautiful Narrows. Four area wineries — twill, Tumwater Vineyard, Campbell Lane Winery and Pete’s Mountain Vineyard & Winery — position this community at the perfect intersection of rural and urban amenities.
DOWNTOWN OREGON CITY:
History Meets a Modern-day Pioneering Spirit The official end of the Oregon Trail overlooking Willamette Falls opposite of West Linn, Oregon City is steeped in Indigenous American, emigrant and industrial heritage. While you might be familiar with the 2,000-mile Oregon Trail used by emigrants in the mid-1800s making their way out West, did you know that Willamette Falls is also home to the world’s first electric power grid? It’s also the site of the first long distance transmission of DC, and later AC, electricity in the world. Downtown Oregon City retains this pioneering spirit. You can see it in specialty shops, including White Rabbit Gifts, an independent bookstore selling locally made gifts. For treasures with stories to tell, visit The Refinery, a women’s consignment shop increasing conscious consumerism and Root + Stem Plants, where you can purchase new beauties or take in your sick plants for a “doctor’s visit.” A 0.5-mile walk from downtown takes you to the riverfront and eNRG Kayaking, where you can rent flatwater boats and SUPs. Book a guided paddling tour to Willamette Falls or a kayak fishing seminar. After hitting the water, grab a bite and unwind at Corner 14 Taphouse and Food Carts or at Oregon City Brewing next door.
Downtown Lake Oswego
TO EXPLORE MORE, VISIT:
mthoodterritory.com/territory-communities
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Back to Nature
Shawn Records
THIS SMALL cabin makes good use of its outdoor space with overhanging eaves to create protected room for reading. (pg. 34)
MAY | JUNE 2022
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 5
FEATURES MAY | JUNE 2022 • volume 74
58 7 Prime Spots for Wildflowers Find the color show of spring wildflowers on these hikes around the blooming state. written by Jean Chen Smith
66 Cold War Refuge The curious story of a Cold War bomb shelter in Portland that would become the canvas for the state’s largest indoor work of art. written by Sig Unander
72 Art About Agriculture Oregon State University’s Art About Agriculture program started in 1993 and now represents hundreds of artists and thousands of stunning works of sculpture, painting and photography. written by Kerry Newberry 6
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seaside is for
You’ll have to drag me from the beach kicking and screaming
When you bring kids to Seaside they suddenly forget all about screen time and they want more boogie boarding time. And kite flying time, and sand castle building time, and making up a game involving shells and rocks and digging holes time. Which means more spending time as a family time.
@visitseasideOR
seasideOR.com
DEPARTMENTS MAY | JUNE 2022 • volume 74
LIVE 18 NOTEBOOK
Farm to table dinner resurgence, Frida and Diego, The Minders and Nativemade mole.
Erik Urdahl/Oregon Coast Visitors Association
24 FOOD + DRINK
Farm dinners that slap, culinary adventures that thrill, cookbooks and collaborations.
28 FARM TO TABLE
The egg is back and healthier than ever after a re-framing of its benefits. We’re back with egg-inspired recipes, too.
34 HOME + DESIGN
A photographer and an architect come together for a cool re-imagination of Oil Can Henry’s. Yes, that one.
40 MIND + BODY
Two adventure racers talk of love, pain and gaining endurance through training.
Tambi Lane
Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development
82
42 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Artist Intisar Abioto introduces us to Black artists, whose work has been institutionally ignored.
THINK 48 STARTUP
A young MIT student launches Instinct, a new paradigm for putting out fires before they begin.
50 WHAT’S GOING UP
Four new breweries signal a return to more beery times.
52 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
Skye Moret is teaching students at Willamette University how to combine design with science for environmental outcomes.
54 MY WORKSPACE
Emmy-winning cameraman Jeff Daly unearths an Astoria story with clowns and bridges.
56 GAME CHANGER
The White Wolf Sanctuary in Alsea houses outcasts and bridges knowledge for visitors.
32
92 14 15 94 96
Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
EXPLORE 80 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Fort Stevens State Park is draped in Oregon history and trails to get there.
82 ADVENTURE
Planning an Oregon Coast trip? Use this as your inspiration for this summer.
84 LODGING
The Setting Inn is a gorgeous new addition to wine country lodging.
86 TRIP PLANNER
When it comes to Mother’s Day, the luxury resorts of Central Oregon are all about it.
92 NW DESTINATION
West Yellowstone is the gateway to history, the outdoors and glamp lodging that puts you close to it all.
COVER
photo by Chris Moore (Exploring Light Photography)/TandemStock.com (see “7 Prime Spots for Wildflowers,” pg. 58)
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CONTRIBUTORS
MELISSA DALTON Writer Home + Design
JEAN CHEN SMITH Writer 7 Prime Spots For Wildflowers
“Working as a design writer for over ten years, I love to talk to people about their homes, and discuss how the architecture affects their lives. This was even more true in my conversation with photographer Shawn Records about his family cabin outside Tillamook. His delight in the project—from its woodsy location, to working with his friend, architect Jeremy Spurgin, to now sharing the cabin with friends and family—was contagious.” (pg. 34)
“To me, there’s nothing more peaceful than being in harmony with nature. Wildflowers tell a story because they grow through the wind and rain, across rugged terrain and bloom each year, without nurturing hands. They are a wonderment unto themselves and in writing the article, it was good to be reminded that many of the locations last into late summer, sometimes autumn.” (pg. 58)
Melissa Dalton is a freelance writer, holds a master’s in English and studied at the Salt Institute for Documentary Studies and Duke University Center for Documentary Studies.
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Jean Chen Smith is a freelance writer and Pilates studio owner who lives in Corvallis with her husband and tiny shih tzu, Tonka.
MAY | JUNE 2022
KERRY NEWBERRY Writer Art About Agriculture; Gastronomy + Dining; Lodging “When I moved to Oregon, I fell in love with the farmers markets. The ingredients are glorious, but meeting the farmers who grow our food fundamentally changed my worldview. Specifically, how food provides a lens to meaningful conversations about the environment. This is creatively captured with the sustainable feast theme in OSU’s 2022 Art About Agriculture exhibit. Food is also festive, and we are lucky to live in a state with countless farm dinners and food adventures that give us a reason to celebrate all summer long.” (pg. 24, 26, 72) Kerry Newberry is a Portlandbased freelance travel and lifestyle writer with a master’s in sustainability education. When not writing, she can be found exploring indie bookstores and running Oregon’s trails.
TAMBI LANE Photographer Homegrown Chef “Food feeds and comforts. Food is family and friendship. It is an adventure and the unknown. Food photography has taken me places I never knew I could go. I’ve experienced art in ways I never knew possible, and I am learning to embrace it all. When I said yes to my first food photography project, I was not prepared for where the path would lead. The biggest lesson for me was to just say yes and embrace the road ahead.” “Pull up a chair. Take a taste. Come join us. Life is so endlessly delicious.” — Ruth Reichl (pg. 32) Tambi Lane has lived in Bend since 2003 with her two daughters. She now enjoys time with her partner and two French bulldogs.
EDITOR-AT-LARGE
Kevin Max
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
Aaron Opsahl
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
Joni Kabana
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
HOMEGROWN CHEF
Thor Erickson
BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Beau Eastes
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Cathy Carroll, Tony Camper, Jean Chen Smith, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Julie Lee, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, Jonathan Shipley, James Sinks, Sig Unander
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
AnAkA, Christopher Dibble, Joni Kabana, Tambi Lane, Chris Moore, Shawn Records, Ian Stout
Headquarters
70 SW Century Dr. Suite 100-218 Bend, Oregon 97702
835 NW Bond St. Suite 200 Bend, Oregon 97703
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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.
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FROM THE
EDITOR-AT-LARGE PEOPLE USED to say that Bend had two seasons—winter and July. There is some truth to that, though I’ve seen it snow in July in Bend. Nevertheless, welcome to the verge-of-summer Outdoors Issue. In this issue, we’ll delve into some of the pursuits that aspiring outdoors aficionados will undoubtedly soon move to the “completed” column. Let’s begin with one of the most important holidays of the year and its relationship to the outdoors. Mother’s Day on May 8 brings us to luxury resorts in Central Oregon, where it’s all about getting out as much as it is about hitting the spa. In this Trip Planner on page 86, we put together compelling ideas for treating mom to the best weekend she deserves. All around the state, this is an optimal time to seek and view wildflowers—on runs, hikes or bike rides. Writer Jean Chen Smith takes us to seven prime spots for wildflowers on page 58. From Moore Mountain near Klamath Falls to Port Orford on the coast, and a hundred places in between, Oregon is a queen when it comes to spring wildflowers. While on the coast put to good use some of the ideas offered in Oregon Coast Adventures on page 82. Surfing, clamming, hiking, kayaking
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are all on the itinerary and all along the coast. Getting out to kayak the Arches Territory along the southern Oregon Coast should be a bucket list item for all of us. Of course, golf is in the air and best pursued outdoors, too. Check out our Pacific Northwest Golf Guide and take inspiration from the new young Masters tournament champion, Scottie Scheffler. The purse may not measure up, but the pursuit of perfection on the lovely lanes of our courses is virtually unmatched. On the creature comfort side, turn to page 34, where you’ll find how an odd inspiration of Oil Can Henry’s led to the creation of a truly beautiful modern cabin in the woods of Tillamook. If you’re feeling inspired to take the next step, follow on with our much-abridged version of a DIY treehouse on page 38. An Onion article once reported that new Starbucks were being built in the bathrooms of existing Starbucks. Similarly, Oregon continues to flirt with peak brewery demand. You’re not really in the outdoors Oregon style until you have a craft beer in your hand and you’re sitting on a brewery deck to enjoy it all. Turn to What’s Going Up on page 50 and find such a place among the new breweries in your backyard.
1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon
HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregon magazine.com/postcard photo by David Beckwith Jr. Tioga Bridge outside of Glide. The bridge was originally called Youngs Bay Bridge until it was destroyed by a powerful flood in 1964. After the flood, the only remaining part of the bridge was its pillars, which Tioga Bridge now sits on as of 2013.
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MAY | JUNE 2022
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
15
Bridgette Rusnac
NOTEBOOK 18 FOOD + DRINK 24 FARM TO TABLE 28 HOME + DESIGN 34 MIND + BODY 40 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 42
pg. 24 Farm to table dinners are back and with even more passion for local bounty and beauty in their surrounding vineyards and meadows.
notebook
Diego Diaz; photo below: Travel Portland
Tidbits + To-dos written by Cathy Carroll
The Crick PDX
The Shops at 10Y The Shops at 10Y, a group of new pop-up shops in downtown Portland, offers an experience informed by fashion, art, history and healing. Oregon’s first Black winemaker Bertony Faustin opened Crick PDX, a hip-hop themed tasting room in the shops, serving Abbey Creek wine from his North Plains winery. It sits alongside other pop-ups at Shops at 10Y, including Amity Artisan Goods, representing Portland’s underserved artists, including women, immigrants, LGBTQ, BIPOC, Latinx, and AAPI makers of artisan goods and gifts.
Portland Art Museum
www.prosperportland.us
ca mark le yo nd ur ar Frida and Diego at Portland Art Museum
Salsa Morada Hot Sauce from Sakari Farms is a mole unlike any other, crafted with purple buena mulata peppers grown on the Native-owned farm in Tumalo, between Bend and Sisters. Perfect on enchiladas, tacos or tortilla chips, it’s only available until the peppers are gone. Sakari also makes massage and body oils, skin care and culinary products with ingredients from the organic and biodynamic farm which bears the Intertribal Agricultural Council “Made by Native American” certification.
The exhibit “Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, and Mexican Modernism” explores the Avant-Garde cultural movement in Mexico in the early twentieth century. With more than 150 works, photographs and period clothing, the exhibition gives context to iconic works of the two beloved artists. Photographs related to Kahlo, Rivera, and their enduring legacy by a global roster of artists include those of Portland-born Imogen Cunningham. Catch it before it closes June 5.
www.sakarifarms.com
www.portlandartmuseum.org
Native-Made Mole
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notebook
Gorge Sail Ventures
2 Towns CiderHouse Cocktails
Take the wheel, hoist the sails or chill and sip wine while taking in the Columbia River Gorge aboard the S/V Northern Exposure. No sailing or boating experience is necessary—you can opt to learn nautical skills from the captain and crew of family-run Gorge Sail Ventures, or relax above or below deck of the 34-foot sailboat. Take in sunrise, sunset or navigate the daytime river action of kiteboarders, barges and kayaks.
Craftwell, canned cocktails crafted with real fruit and carefully-sourced ingredients in Oregon, is the latest from 2 Towns CiderHouse of Corvallis. Flavors such as Pineapple Margarita, Grapefruit Paloma, Blueberry Cosmo and Strawberry Margarita are all ready to be savored after outings on the trail, river, beach, mountains or ocean. They’re easy to toss into the backpack, cooler, trailer or bike bag for your spring and summer adventures.
www.columbiagorgesailing.com
www.2townsciderhouse.com
camark y len our da r Farm & Forage
Andrea Johnson
Taste the “good to the earth” motto of the renowned Sokol Blosser winery in six-course tasting menus designed around ingredients foraged and organically farmed on the 89-acre estate in Dundee, from mushrooms and nettles to salad greens and more. Farm & Forage is offered at 1 p.m. on designated Friday, Saturday and Sunday afternoons throughout the summer, on the porch right outside of the kitchen of chef Travis Bird. www.sokolblosser.com
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notebook
Musician
The Minders founder had a moment in the desert that lead to a reawakening and a new album.
Hooray for The Minders
The Portland indie-pop band gets back to basics on Psychedelic Blacktop written by Ben Salmon
The Minders
WHEN MARTYN LEAPER picks up the phone to chat with 1859, he does so inside a small building in the backyard of his longtime Portland home. “It’s a shed, really,” Leaper said. “It’s the quiet place. My wife is doing something in the house, and I didn’t want to distract her.” That space isn’t always so quiet. For seventeen years, it has served as Leaper’s recording studio, where he lays to tape the top-notch pop-rock songs he writes for his band, The Minders. At just 200 square feet, it’s a tight squeeze for a quintet, but it works, and its mere existence is a monument to some advice Leaper received many years ago from his friend Robert Schneider of the indiepop band The Apples in Stereo. “He said, ‘Invest in your music, and you’ll always be able to make music even if you don’t have a label,’” Leader said. “And we don’t have a label anymore. We don’t have that kind of support. We’re entirely independent. So we have to find ways to be able to make music, and you need a space to be able to do that. You have to have an environment that is ready-made for you to create.” Leaper formed The Minders in the mid-1990s in Denver, where the band was closely associated with the influential Elephant 6 collective of indie-pop bands, including the venerated Neutral Milk Hotel, cult faves Olivia Tremor Control and Schneider’s wonderful band, Apples. The late ’90s were a fruitful time for those bands, including The Minders, who, in 1998, released a pitch-perfect slab of Beatles-esque pop songs called Hooray For Tuesday. Leaper has been making Minders music ever since, though sometimes in fits and starts. (“Life happens,” he said.) During a particularly rough patch in the late 2010s, Leaper had an epiphany while at Joshua Tree on tour with his old friends Neutral Milk Hotel. “We were in the middle of the desert at night, and they were playing in the background and I had a bit of a—I’m not going to call it a spiritual awakening—but it was like, ‘What are you doing with your life?’” he said with a chuckle. “‘You’re working this job that’s killing you. Why aren’t you doing (music)?’” 20
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Listen on Spotify
That experience spurred a surge of songwriting that eventually became The Minders’ newest album, Psychedelic Blacktop. Released earlier this year, it’s a thirteen-track collection that not only spills over with the band’s bouncy, jazz-flecked, baroque-pop sound, it also features some of Leaper’s most honest and personal lyrics, plus a few odes to Oregon, and Portland specifically. In making the new album, Leaper attempted to reverse engineer some of the band’s earliest work to try to recapture some of its spark. He focused on writing what he knows, he used older equipment and he largely recorded Psychedelic Blacktop live with his band, being careful not to fuss over the results. “Sometimes you can get a little precious with stuff, and we didn’t overwork these songs,” he said. “When you get older, you start second guessing a lot of things, and that’s where the magic dies. So I just wanted to re-experience what made me so excited about recording in the first place, and I think you can hear that on this record.”
717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.maloys.com
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notebook
Douglas Deur worked with the Quinault Indian Nation to teach the power of plants.
Bibliophile
Plant Prescription Gifted Earth shares Native American knowledge of the benefits of plants interview by Cathy Carroll
PART ETHNOBOTANICAL GUIDE and part howto manual, Gifted Earth is a beautiful, informative, new generation of guides informed by the values, vision and voice of Native American communities eager to promote a sustainable, balanced relationship between plant users and the rich plant communities of traditional tribal lands. Author Douglas Deur is an associate research professor of anthropology at Portland State University and an adjunct professor of environmental studies at the University of Victoria. He has written extensively about the traditions, values and ecological logic of Native American plant use. The book is published in cooperation with the Quinault Indian Nation. The Quinault Reservation on the Olympic Peninsula of Washington is a diverse tribal community, embodying the traditional knowledge of tribes along the entire Pacific Northwest coast including the northern Oregon Coast. 22
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What was the genesis of the book? Gifted Earth is a very unusual book. Typically, in the dusty old days of anthropology, a researcher stumbled into a tribal community guided by their own priorities, recorded what they saw, and returned home to share their observations with a small circle of like-minded colleagues. In the case of the Gifted Earth project, the tribe came looking for me. The Quinault Indian Nation asked me to come to their community to record their plant knowledge—and not just knowledge of the past, but the knowledge that they still possess as part of their living culture. They did so for multiple reasons. First and foremost, the tribe wished to record this information for their own benefit: we documented the knowledge of their elders, systematically over the course of years, so that this information might be preserved and passed on to future generations of tribal members. The tribe now uses the information we gathered in the course of that work: in health and diet programs to sustain and revive certain traditions, and also to educate tribal youth. Why did the Quinault Indian Nation make it clear from the very beginning that they wanted your work to be published largely for non-Native readers? While I can’t speak on behalf of the tribe, their lead cultural staff clearly had multiple goals. They wanted to show that Quinault nation still holds a vibrant culture, and a robust understanding of the lands and living things of their traditional homeland. They wanted to instill in the non-Native world a deeper
appreciation of Northwestern plants—for unfamiliarity brings multiple dangers and the potential for despoliation. I also think that they meant the book to serve as a gift to the wider world—knowing that we must all live together in the Pacific Northwest for generations to come, that we have common concerns, common interests, that call for a sharing of knowledge, values and ideas. If the non-Native world can better appreciate these plants and their potentials, they might value the natural world a little more and treat it with due respect. We all might live a little better, a little healthier and with a more meaningful connection to this amazing land. Did anything surprise you during the research? The part of Native knowledge that is less known, and more protected and private, are the medicinal and spiritual uses of plants. When I began working at Quinault, I was amazed by the strength and endurance of traditional medicinal knowledge centered on plants. Elders spoke of wide-ranging healing knowledge. Their cupboards brimmed with jars and bags of plant materials for all kinds of ailments, often taken in combinations at just the right ratio. This healing knowledge is very guarded, as part of the intellectual property of tribal families and healers, so we are not at liberty to discuss details. Yet, to their credit, Quinault chose to share some small part of that healing tradition in Gifted Earth, to present some basic plant-based remedies, for the well-being of their neighbors across the Pacific Northwest.
HOOD RIVER
LAIR
CLOTHING • SHOES • JEWELRY • TEXTILES
Bridgette Rusnac
food + drink
CRAVINGS: FOOD ADVENTURES
MOMENTUM RIVER EXPEDITIONS On the Wilderness Gourmet trips offered by this guide-owned and -operated adventure company, world-class rafting is paired with farm-to-table feasts cooked by private chefs along Oregon’s wild rivers. In partnership with Portlandbased Wilder Project, these limited expeditions along Oregon’s Upper Klamath promise sun-soaked days, starlit nights and pristine canyons for a dining room.
Gastronomy
Field & Vine Events staff pour wine at a dinner held at Alloro Vineyard in Sherwood as Field & Vine founder, Pascal Chureau, welcomes attendees to the dinner with Alloro Vineyard owner, David Nemarnik.
Farm Dinners written by Kerry Newberry FOR LOCAL FOOD enthusiasts, the hottest table of the year is the one that’s on a farm. Is there any better place to enjoy the abundance of sought-after berries, grilled corn on the cob and a gorgeous heirloom tomato salad? “We know our guests enjoy getting out of restaurant dining rooms on summer nights and eating close to the source,” said Pascal Chureau, founder of Field & Vine Events. “It’s also a fun way to discover new wineries and farms.” Chureau hosted his first farm dinner in 2013, initially as a one-off event to introduce patrons to the farmers who supply his West Linn restaurant Allium with produce. That wildly successful gathering spurred a new business venture and the chef now partners with farms and vineyards around the state, connecting the seasons through food and place. Some of his most popular spots include Rosse Posse Elk Farm, Villa Catalana Cellars and Marquam Hill Ranch—where the resident herd of alpacas always takes center stage. “It’s become an annual tradition for many of our guests,” said Chureau. That sense of community also peaks across the languid arc of summer at The Side Yard Farm & Kitchen, a one-acre plot in Portland’s Cully neighborhood. Since 2009, founder and chef Stacey Givens has welcomed guests to the farm for creative seed-to-plate brunches, cooking classes and plant sales. Come summer, monthly farm dinners and bike-in movie screenings with “farmy” movie snacks kick into high gear. At the three-generation family-owned Topaz Farm on Sauvie Island, farm feasts run on weekends between June through September. Husband-and-wife chefs Christian and Janelle Ephrem cook up four-course dinners served under a 200-year-old majestic oak tree. Standouts include nights devoted to global flavors from Moroccan to Ethiopian and Eritrean. 24 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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3195 EAST MAIN ST. #2 ASHLAND HQ / WEST COAST EXPERIENCES www.momentumriverexpeditions.com
TOURNANT EVENTS Discover the magic of open fire cooking at an unforgettable feast led by culinary wonders, Jaret Foster and Mona Johnson. From enchanting full moon dinners in wine country to their farm to fire vegetable cooking classes at Star Mooring Farm in Newberg, the duo captivates and their creative twists with seasonal ingredients linger long after the last bite. 301 MAIN STREET DAYTON www.tournantpdx.com
MODERN ADVENTURE For the culinary adventure of a lifetime, check out the global travel experiences offered by Portlandbased Modern Adventure. Each year, a handful of the epicurean trips are led by Oregon’s top food and wine personalities. In 2022, you can head to Argentina with Adelsheim, Burgundy with Stoller Family Estate or Morocco with renowned Portland chef Gregory Gourdet. 6420 SW MACADAM AVE. SUITE 218 PORTLAND HQ / GLOBAL EXPERIENCES www.modernadventure.com
OUTWARDS!
Timberline Vodka is created by and for the Outer Class in a little part of the world called Hood River, where there’s a lot more outside than inside. We distill our enthusiasm into this gem from a unique blend of Pacific Northwest apples, grain, and glacier-fed spring water from Mt. Hood. Here’s to whatever opens your door.
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A proud partner of The Freshwater Trust, a nonprofit whose mission is to preserve and restore freshwater ecosystems, including rivers, streams and creeks across the West. Distilled and bottled by Hood River Distillers, Inc., Hood River, Oregon. © 2022 Timberline ® Vodka, 40% Alc./Vol., Gluten Free. www.timberlinevodkas.com. Stay in Contro Control. l.®
food + drink
BEST PLACES FOR
CULINARY BOOKS Shopping for dinner feels like a minivacation at the recently expanded Providore, Portland’s utterly charming market that’s a hub for small food purveyors from Rubinette Produce and TwoXSea to Revel Meat Co. and Little T Baker. The new addition includes a literary corner stocked high with hundreds of cookbooks to inspire. Come for the fresh pastas and a bottle of Barbera but add in Stanley Tucci’s new memoir for the win. 2340 NE SANDY BLVD PORTLAND www.providorefinefoods.com
ABOVE Chef Shack in NE Portland has guest chefs and local food and music. AT RIGHT Verdant in wine country’s Carlton offers a nine-course dinner and wine pairing series. (photo: Foundry 503)
Dining
Chef Collaborations written by Kerry Newberry
VIVIENNE KITCHEN & PANTRY
Since opening in 2016, this expansive market has offered a delightful treasure hunt for food and wine enthusiasts. In addition to an extensive wine collection, a meat and seafood counter, and a floral shop, you’ll find an exquisite collection of kitchen goods, specialty ingredients, culinary gifts and, of course, the latest and greatest cookbooks. From classic tomes by MFK Fisher, Micheal Pollan and Ruth Ozeki to new voices like Michelle Zauner and Joshua Weissman.
THERE’S NEVER BEEN a better time to eat your way across Oregon. A new crop of pop-ups and collaborations has chefs feeding guests to fuel their creativity and bolster community. Starting with Flying Fish Company, a sustainable seafood market and restaurant located on a buzzy corner in NE Portland. In early 2022, owner and chief fishmonger Lyf Gildersleeve launched Chef Shack, a food cart and covered patio adjacent to his popular fresh fish hub. “Our goal is to create a space where we can collaborate with friends, highlight local ingredients and provide a glimpse into a guest chef ’s heritage and how that shapes who they are today,” he said. Open on weekends, chef Shack amps up the convivial mood with live music on Saturdays. Recent marquee chefs include Doug Adams, formerly of Bullard (also Top Chef, Season 12), and Maylin Chavez of Nácar Oysters—a merroir y terroir pop-up trending across Portland. Known for cooking up oysters with bright Baja flavors, Chavez plans to team up with Portland hotspots Olympia Provisions, Quaintrelle and Jaqueline, and regularly shucks oysters for wine-centric pairings in the vineyard at Alumbra Cellars near Dayton. “Being able to collaborate with other chefs is like having a playdate with your friends—but in the kitchen,” Chavez said. “You break the routine of your respective operations and get to feed off each other’s energy and creativity. It’s enriching and invigorating.” Check for upcoming collaborations on her Instagram account (@nacaroysters). In the Willamette Valley, Abbey Road Farm kicked-off Verdant, a monthly collaboration dinner series, where culinary director Will Preisch brings in guest chefs to create a seasonal nine-course tasting menu with wine pairings. “We were looking for a way to get back in the kitchen with chef friends and former colleagues,” said Preisch. “In these dinners, we get to cook what we’re most excited about and ultimately share that with the guests.”
296 E 5TH AVE EUGENE www.provisionsmarkethall.com
3004 E BURNSIDE ST PORTLAND www.flyingfishpdx.com
Cookbook collectors will love this oneof-a-kind hybrid shop and café. Browse owner Robin Wheelright’s thoughtfully curated selection of cookbooks and vintage kitchenware while the aroma of freshly baked goods fills the cheerful space. A wine nook stocks picks by natural wine phenom Dana Frank. In the works, book signings with local authors and a bookstore bar. 4128 NE SANDY BLVD PORTLAND www.viviennepdx.com
PROVISIONS MARKET HALL
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Natalie Gildersleeve
PROVIDORE
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10501 NE ABBEY RD. CARLTON www.abbeyroadfarm.com
The World’s Sweetest Tree Ripened Cherries VARIETALS JULY—SEPT 2022: Bing, Rainier, Regina, Lapin, Skeena, Sweetheart Sales: info@HRCherryCompany.com | 541-386-2183 | 800-709-4722 | HRCherryCompany.com
farm to table
Photos: The Egg Drop
The Egg Drop’s Amy Engelhard.
Farm to Table
Re-nesting
The egg beats its way back into our homes written by Julie Lee THE EGG IS peeling back its bad reputation. Once frowned upon as a cholesterol calamity, to the contrary, eggs are one of the best sources of high-quality protein you can find. Rich in vitamins including B2, vitamins B12, D, and A, and a host of minerals, eggs are an essential part of a healthy diet. A bonus? They are low in calories. Shelling out pretty pennies for glowing skin? Try eating eggs instead. Eggs are great for skin; they soften, firm and hydrate all at once, with amino acids helping to generate new skin cells. Studies show that two major antioxidants in eggs, lutein and zeaxanthin, are known to increase protection against UV damage that leads to lines, age spots and cancer, as well as to reduce 28 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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age-related macular degeneration. Eating one egg a day can significantly increase blood levels of these important antioxidants. Where you source your eggs matters. Season one, episode one of the long-running Portlandia served a spotlight on how ardent our locals are for locally produced foods, and while the episode featured Colin the chicken rather than eggs, the point landed— local is best. One of the most intriguing local egg producers is The Egg Drop. With 100 to 150 roaming hens, owners Amy and Brian Engelhard are devoted producers of farm fresh eggs, delivered farm to doorsteps. What has evolved into a booming business started with a zeal for farm fresh eggs. The Engelhards spent weekends driving to farm fresh egg stands, and when availability became scarce, they bought chickens to test demand if they supplied farmed eggs themselves. There was. Starting in 2017, the couple originally sold eggs through an online market, LemonStand, to handle e-commerce. Initial deliveries topped out at fifteen dozen eggs a week. They now deliver up to seventy dozen eggs weekly to more than 200 customers.
farm to table
Deliveries are made every week, guaranteed. You can find The Egg Drop drivers out there, alongside the U.S. Postal Service, delivering in snow, ice or any weather surprise Oregon brings. “During the ice storm last year, it took us three days, but we made every delivery,” said Brian Engelhard. To accommodate customer requests, The Egg Drop added other farm fresh foods. Engelhard is a 3.8% milk aficionado, and when customers asked if milk could be delivered, they set out to find partners to provide that service. The couple now partners with multiple farms to sell milk, raw honey, fresh fruit by the season, apple cider donuts and cookies that melt in the mouth. The Egg Drop prides itself on customer service. “Our shining star is our service,” said Engelhard. “Our model is subscription, and most of our customers, once they become customers, never leave—we’re attrition positive.” If anything is in error, The Egg Drop will re-deliver the next day for free—a policy that once caused some confusion. A customer continually called to say deliveries were not being made. Engelhard couldn’t figure it out, knowing the deliveries were getting there, but they kept the promise to re-deliver the next day. Eventually the mystery was solved. The customer’s kids were happily consuming deliveries from the doorstep before they ever made it inside. As could be expected, the Engelhards have fielded calls to grow their business, but as Engelhard said, “we can only produce so much—so many eggs, so much fruit, so much milk. We’re too small for big farms, too large for small farms.” This makes The Egg Drop just the right size, selling more than some single location grocery stores, but not selling out on their carefully curated model of farm-to-door service. One of many partners who helps promote The Egg Drop is Nicole Krill of The Balanced Plate, a popular Instagram site highlighting balanced whole food recipes. Krill created the business in college, crossbreeding an affinity for cooking with a devotion to healthy living. Her recipes are inspired by the delicate balance between eating healthy and adventurous eating. “So many things inspire me in the kitchen,” Krill said, “As an athlete who competes in Ironman 70.3 and endurance events, the importance of highquality food and fueling for performance inspires me to create flavorful healthy food.” Krill met the Engelhards through her mom, and when the Engelhards saw how her recipes incorporated fresh produce and
The Egg Drop delivers more than 70 dozen fresh eggs to customers weekly.
eggs, they asked for help promoting their farm-to-front-door delivery service. It was an instant collaboration. “In terms of health, where you get your eggs from really does matter,” said Krill. “The eggs from The Egg Drop are from free range hens not pumped with antibiotics. The value for me is that the nutrient density of the egg itself is higher, the flavor is noticeably better, and supporting a local farm versus a large CAFO (confined animal feeding operation) feels good.” Eggs for dinner? Of course. Try The Balanced Plate’s lentilstuffed portobello mushrooms with poached eggs & arugula or the sausage & potato olive oil crust quiche, good any time of the day. Hungry for the best breakfast sandwich ever? Jace Krause, founder of the popular Fried Egg I’m in Love in Portland, shares his recipe for the Yolko Ono.
What has evolved into a booming business started with a zeal for farm fresh eggs. The Engelhards spent weekends driving to farm fresh egg stands, and when availability became scarce, they bought chickens to test demand if they supplied farmed eggs themselves. There was. MAY | JUNE 2022
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Lauren Simpson
farm to table
Fried Egg I’m In Love’s Yolko Ono sandwich.
Oregon Recipes
Egg-cellence Par None Yolko Ono
Fried Egg I’m In Love / PORTLAND Jace Krause SERVES 6 FOR THE PESTO • ½ cup fresh basil leaves, rinsed and dried • ½ cup shredded Parmesan • 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil • ¼ cup pine nuts • 1 tablespoon minced garlic • ½ teaspoon sea salt • Dash black pepper FOR THE SAUSAGE • ½ yellow onion • 1 teaspoon minced garlic • 1 teaspoon yellow mustard • ½ teaspoon paprika • Dash dried or fresh oregano • Dash sea salt • Pinch black pepper • 1 pound raw ground pork sausage TO ASSEMBLE • Unsalted butter, for buttering bread and frying
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• Fresh sourdough bread (use a large, wide loaf) cut into 6 slices • ¾ cup Parmesan, grated • 6 eggs • Black pepper • Cayenne pepper FOR THE PESTO Pack the basil into a food processor, and then add the Parmesan, oil, pine nuts, garlic, salt, and pepper. Blend for 30 to 45 seconds, then scrape any bits from the side and blend for another 30 seconds. Let it rest for 1 minute, and then blend again for another 30 seconds. You are looking for a smooth texture, which will be easier to spread onto the bread. Taste the pesto. You should taste a nice balance between the basil, oil, and salt. FOR THE SAUSAGE Puree the onion in a food processor and transfer to a bowl. Add the garlic, mustard, paprika, oregano, salt, and pepper. Stir until blended. Put the sausage in a large mixing bowl and break up into small pieces. Mix in the onion mixture, using your hands to blend into the sausage. The puree should be blended evenly with the
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sausage, and you should see no clumps. Form the sausage into 6 balls, a bit bigger than a golf ball, and place on a dinner plate or small baking pan. Be sure to roll and form the balls tightly. TO ASSEMBLE Preheat a cast-iron griddle or large pan over medium heat. Be sure your griddle is fully heated before beginning. The egg and sausage should sizzle when they hit the griddle. Spread some butter down the center of each bread slice using a brush, and then place butter-side down on the griddle. Evenly spread a heaping tablespoon of the pesto onto the bread using a spatula, covering the bread right up to the edges. Sprinkle as much Parmesan as you desire on top of the pesto. Typically, 1/8 cup on each sandwich is used. Place the sausage balls on the griddle and press into a patty using a strong metal spatula. You will be covering one-half of the bread with this patty, so match the patty size to the bread. Spread a thin layer of butter onto the griddle, and then crack your eggs onto that spot. Sprinkle a small pinch of black pepper and cayenne on each egg. Check your sausage patty; when one side is charred, flip. When the white of the egg start turning opaque, flip the egg. Let the sausage and egg cook for about 2 minutes after flipping. Then place your sausage on one half of the bread and top it with the egg. Use a knife to cut the bread in half and fold it over to create a sandwich. Your bread should have a nice brown toasted mark down the center. Use your judgement on how many sandwiches you can cook at once. You can also experiment with toasting/topping all the bread first, then cooking all the sausages, followed by all the eggs. Or you can cook them 1 or 2 at a time. It’s up to you!
Mural by Eileen Hinckle
The #1 medium-sized U.S. city for biking* *Or unicycling, if that’s your thing.
2022 ranking by saveonenergy.com
farm to table
A chance encounter in Italy led to this egg yolk and ricotta ravioli recipe.
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farm to table
Homegrown Chef
Uovo the Top written by Thor Erickson photography by Tambi Lane
“WHAT TO COOK for dinner?” I thought to myself as I arrived home after a long day. I knew my fridge was looking a bit sparse, and I was at a loss as to what to prepare. Walking into the house, I noticed a box on the front step. I opened it to find two dozen fresh eggs from our friend, Darren, who has twelve chickens that he refers to as “the girls.” The eggs were so fresh that they were still warm. I suddenly knew what was on the dinner menu. As I cracked the delicate brown shells on the edge of a cup, I noticed the intense orange of the yolks. Suddenly I was transported back in time to a meal I had at a small hilltop restaurant just outside the northern Italian town of Piacenza. Upon my arrival, I was told that the restaurant would not open for another hour, but that they could make a little something for me. That little something was “ravioli al uovo”—egg yolk ravioli. A sauce of butter and Parmigiana caressed the delicate, handmade pasta. Inside the silky envelope, a perfectly cooked egg yolk was nestled in ricotta cheese. As the server placed it before me, he quickly produced a sizable black truffle and shaved it over the pasta. As I took my first bite, I could taste the pure richness of the egg yolk, quietly supported by all the other ingredients. I sighed in satisfaction. The server said, “L’uovo è il cibo più perfetto del mondo.”—The egg is the world’s most perfect food. Here’s my recipe. These are perfect by themselves or with some steamed asparagus. If you’re lucky enough to come across some Oregon truffles, do not hesitate to shave them over the top.
Egg Yolk and Ricotta Ravioli SERVES 6 FOR THE RAVIOLI FILLING • 5 tbls unsalted butter • Kosher salt • Freshly ground black pepper • 4 ounces ricotta • 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano • Reggiano, plus more for garnish • 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg • 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest • 1 recipe Basic Pasta Dough • 6 jumbo egg yolks, egg whites reserved FOR THE PASTA • 31/4 to 31/2 cups all-purpose flour • 4 large eggs, at room temperature FOR THE RAVIOLI FILLING In the bowl of a food processor, add the ricotta, Parmigiano Reggiano, nutmeg, lemon zest and a pinch of salt and pepper, and puree until smooth. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a round tip with the ricotta mixture. Divide the pasta dough into 4 pieces. Using a pasta machine, roll the dough out. Begin by using the thickest setting and repeat, reducing the setting each time you pass the dough through, ending with the second-thinnest setting. Lay out one sheet of pasta and pipe the ricotta mixture onto the dough in circles that are 1-inch wideand ½-inch high. For every twelve inches of pasta sheet, you should make three raviolis. Place one egg yolk in the center of each ricotta circle. With a pastry brush, brush egg white onto the dough around the filling, being careful not to break the yolk. Carefully lay another pasta sheet of equal size on top of the first. Press the dough together and make sure to gently press to remove all air from each of the ravioli. Cut out the ravioli with a round fluted cookie cutter. Alternatively, cut the between the seams with a knife.
Bring 6 quarts of salted water to a soft boil. Working three at a time, gently place the ravioli in the boiling water, cook for 3 minutes, and then remove with a slotted spoon. Repeat for the remaining ravioli. Reserve 1/4 cup of the pasta water. In a 2- or 3-quart saucepan, melt the remaining 8 tablespoons butter until it begins to foam. Whisk in the reserved pasta water and cook for 1 minute to emulsify the liquids. Place one ravioli on each plate, drizzle with the butter sauce, and sprinkle with grated Parmigiano Reggiano. Serve immediately. FOR THE PASTA This recipe makes more than enough dough for the ravioli. Use only one of the six pieces of dough for the above ravioli recipe. Turn the rest into fresh noodles or freeze for later use. Place the flour into a mound on a cutting board and with a spoon, shape a small concave indentation in the center. Add the eggs to the center. With a fork, lightly beat the eggs and gradually pull some of the flour into the egg mixture. Mix the flour and eggs together until well combined. Knead the dough until it becomes smooth and elastic. Cover the dough with a towel and let rest for 20 minutes. Cut the dough into 6 pieces and cover with a towel. Pass one section at a time through a pasta machine. Start on the widest setting and pass the dough through. Begin lowering the machine’s setting down one notch at a time, and pass the dough through once on each setting, finishing on the last (thinnest) setting. Lay the dough on a flat surface sprinkled lightly with flour and let the dough dry slightly. It should still be a little tacky and pliable, or it will not cut properly. Cut the dough into desired shapes (tagliatelle, taglierini, spaghetti) or use the sheets to make stuffed pastas (ravioli, cappelletti).
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home + design
On a forest clearing outside of Tillamook, a couple creates its own Oil Can Henry’s architectural style.
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home + design
A Cabin State of Mind A photographer and an architect, friends and neighbors, craft a small retreat in the woods outside Tillamook
Shawn Records
written by Melissa Dalton BOTH SHAWN RECORDS and his wife, Jenny, grew up in Idaho with a “mountain place” in their families. His grandparents had a little trailer at Lake Cascade, while Jenny’s parents built a cabin close to Lake Fork, ten miles south of McCall. Around 2013, the now Portland-based couple— he’s a photographer, and she’s a librarian—started looking for a little extra land of their own to continue the tradition and build a new place for a new generation of the family, said Records. They started scouting out the Oregon Coast, but contrary to so many buyers, didn’t necessarily want to be on the water. Then they found a seven-acre forested parcel outside Tillamook, with a meadow clearing, salmonberry thickets, and deer trails carved through groves of alder trees. “What I liked about this particular spot is that there were a variety of different ‘rooms’ in the forest,” said Records. “Four or five, just magical little spots.” After purchase, the couple explored the land with their two children, hiking and clearing trails, and sleeping in an Airstream trailer. “But then I learned that you can’t do that in Tillamook County. That’s just not a thing that is allowed,” said Records of living on-site in the trailer. “So, the cabin came after the universe rejected my first plan.” Fortunately, Records’ next door neighbor and friend, Jeremy Spurgin, is the principal architect at Portland firm Outside Architecture, and the two began spit-balling the possibilities. “The cabin, in a sense, came out of a number of beers and big idea conversations standing out on the sidewalk,” said Records. It’s not often that design inspiration is found in a gas station, but that’s exactly what happened to Records during an oil change one day. “As I’m sitting in my car in the Oil Can Henry’s, I was thinking about how amazing it is to have such great light on both sides, front and back,” said Records. “I was like, ‘I want to do that. I want to build a little Oil Can Henry’s in the woods where it just feels like a big open space that is outdoors primarily.’” Spurgin saw how such an approach would accommodate the couple’s love for the land: “The goal of this cabin was for it to not disrupt what we all really loved about the natural setting,” said Spurgin. To do that, the architect sited the cabin, not on its highest point, but where the best natural light could filter inside, ensconced in the meadow with unimpeded views into the family’s MAY | JUNE 2022
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home + design
“As I’m sitting in my car in the Oil Can Henry’s, I was thinking about how amazing it is to have such great light on both sides, front and back. I was like, ‘I want to do that. I want to build a little Oil Can Henry’s in the woods where it just feels like a big open space that is outdoors primarily.’” — Shawn Records, on the design inspiration for his family’s cabin and out for occupants, and the covered space can act as a mudroom or unloading area when people drive up. The building’s footprint is small—about 820 square feet—but essential design planning expands it. “You’re designing down to the square inch rather than the square foot,” said Spurgin. The living area is bookended by a bedroom on one side, and the entry, bathroom, and a small study on the other. Vaulted ceilings in the main room are complemented by lofts on either end, flushed with sun from skylights and accessed by a rolling library ladder. “It being a small structure, we didn’t want to overcomplicate it,” said Spurgin of the material palette. To that end, there’s no drywall: just birch plywood and white laminate cabinet doors, concrete floors and glass. Custom cabinetry fashioned by Portland studio Spacecraft defines the kitchen and artfully composes the media wall, and was installed high enough to foster privacy and separation for the lofts. Nowadays, Shawn and Jenny get to the cabin most weekends. “All we ever want to do out there is go outside, and drink coffee and read books,” said Records. “It kind of feels like going to church in the outdoors.” Photos: Shawn Records
cherished “magic woods.” At first glance, the exterior form appears simple: rectangular, clad in cedar, with a metal gable roof, but Spurgin took the idea of an iconic American dogtrot-style home and gave it a twist. The dogtrot house first appeared in Appalachia and was originally formed by two log cabins—one for cooking and eating, and one for sleeping—connected by a central breezeway, or dogtrot, and all tucked under one roof. Back then, the breezeway was essential for ventilation. Here, Spurgin placed the main living spaces in the middle of the plan, and fitted 20-foot-long sliding glass doors with decks on both sides, essentially creating a defacto breezeway at the center, and carving out “voids” to get the transparency that the couple sought. On one side of the building, the porch runs the whole length of the home, but without the trappings of posts and railings, making it a more modern take on the traditional form. “It’s like if you took a really simple Monopoly house and then just carved that porch out of it,” said Spurgin. “Most times when you see a covered porch, it feels tacked on. This feels more part of the body of the home.” This further blurs the experience of inside
FROM LEFT The cabin has its walls pared back and replaced with massive sliding doors to create a breezeway. At just 820 square feet, the cabin has no spaces that were not completely thought through.
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home + design
No better place than their cabin to read and escape into the woods.
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home + design
DIY: Backyard Treehouse THE BEGINNING OF Grey Shaeffer’s treehouse adventure was as a child at her parents’ farm in Forest Grove. Her father built an A-frame treehouse that spanned two trees, and as an adult, Shaeffer made some updates to the original. “I was 19, and I didn’t want to move back into the house because I’d gone to school overseas, so I moved into the tree house,” recalled Shaeffer. “So, I actually remodeled that tree house and lived in it, with plumbing and everything.” Years later, as a designer and founder of Willa Work, Schaeffer was building an Accessory Dwelling Unit (ADU) in her Portland backyard, and it was a natural decision to add a treehouse, using leftover building materials from the larger project. “I wanted a treehouse for me and my kids,” said Schaeffer, who fashioned hers into an office space, but also saw it get used as a prime nap spot by her 3-year-old. “Treehouses are a place to get away and have your Walden Pond moment,” said Schaeffer. Here’s a rough guide to how she did it: PICK A TREE “It was the only tree I had,” said Schaeffer of choosing the one for this particular project. She would have preferred an oak, Douglas fir, or redwood: “You want to choose a tree that’s going to live a very long time and that has really good architecture, so to speak. Also, have an arborist out to check it over beforehand to flag any problems.” BUILD THE FOUNDATION AND FRAME (Note: Technically, this project is not a treehouse, since it is supported by posts, rather than the tree alone. Schaeffer recommends the Garnier Limb and associated hardware for installing a treehouse that doesn’t make contact with the ground.) Check your local jurisdiction regarding whether a building permit is required for your project. For Shaeffer’s 38 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
treehouse, the team sunk concrete footers into the ground to stabilize the four x four wood pilings, using the tree to support the fourth corner. Then, they added a platform and framing for the walls and shed roof. FINISH Shaeffer added a sliding door at one end, as well as an operable window. The exterior siding is a fused bamboo product from Dasso XTR, in classic espresso, to match the nearby ADU. The team insulated the interior cavity of the walls, then finished them in birch plywood. The roof received polycarbonate to bring sun into the interior. As far as water xagetting in via the tree limb? “There’s a donut around the limb of the tree, a little higher up, so that when rain comes down the branch, it hits the little donut, and then just drips off of that,” said Shaeffer.
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Grey Shaeffer continued her adolescent fascination with treehouses and built this bamboo exterior, birch plywood interior treehouse.
home + design
MODERN CABIN GOODS Essential items for cabin living North Drinkware is a “team of friends” spanning Bend to Portland who joined together to create unexpected drinkware that pays homage to the local landscape. Using USGS data, each handblown glass boasts a three-dimensional profile of one of the state’s beloved features, like Mount Hood, Mount Bachelor, and even Haystack Rock. www.northdrinkware.com Whisk brooms are a bit of an unsung hero when it comes to household tools, getting into hard-to-reach corners and taking care of small messes. Check out the Rainbow Whisk Broom from Backwoods Broom Co. for a whimsical update on such a utilitarian object. The company makes all of their inventory by hand in their Eugene-based workshop, from dying the broom corn in brilliant shades, to foraging and kiln-drying the handles. www.backwoodsbrooms.com The utility stool is another household item that always comes in handy, yet can be easily overlooked. No longer with this bright orange, 18-inch tall, welded steel stool from Schoolhouse, made with an ergonomic seat, rubber feet to prevent skidding, and assembled in their Portland factory.
Photos: Christopher Dibble
www.schoolhouse.com Cabin life calls for a blanket that can go easily from inside to out, whether cozying up in front of the wood stove, or out by the firepit. Look no further than the Original Puffy blanket from Portland-based Rumpl. It’s packable, portable, water resistant, and stuffed with 100% post-consumer recycled materials. It even has a built-in clip so you can wear it as a cape. www.rumpl.com
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mind + body
Chelsea Magness and her husband, Jason, compete in epic adventure races and own Bend Racing.
Chelsea and Jason Magness push boundaries through racing and training written by Jonathan Shipley
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Photos: Bend Racing
Adventurous Duo
NOTHING SAYS SWEET, sweet love like terrifyingly swimming through unknowable rapids on inflated Thermarests. Nothing says, “I love you,” like racing over mountain passes yet to be named as your hip fails. Nothing says, “‘Til death do us part,” like mountain biking down treacherous paths, hopeful you won’t topple into a thatch of devil’s club, or, worse, off of a cliff. Then again, most couples aren’t Jason and Chelsea Magness of Bend Racing, an organization that hosts epic Pacific Northwest adventure races and sends their world-class team (of which they’re members) to the toughest races in the world. “As fun as physical suffering is, the mental is my fascination,” noted Jason Magness, a 46-year-old originally from La Jolla, California. He now spends his days in Bend with his wife, Chelsea, when they aren’t pushing the limits of the human body in adventure courses in far-flung locales. “The idea of having to rely on the power of the mind to control and force the failing body to move forward instead of shutting down is powerful.” His body has failed in the past. He’s got two artificial hips, for example. One race he had to be carried out of the mountains when one of his hips failed. He likes pushing himself. He likes pushing others as a coach. Chelsea does, too. “In these experiences where I go in nervous and unknowing of the outcome, I gain new perspectives,” she said. “I meet new edges. I gain more tools on how to be a better wife, mother, friend and human.” Chelsea Magness is a 37-year-old who grew to love nature and the outdoors in Anchorage, Alaska. (This, while Jason liked to be inside, living in the fantasy world of Dungeons & Dragons). “As I grew older,” Chelsea said, “I learned all the outdoor sports.” Their fourth date together was a six-hour adventure race. They won in four hours. “I used all of my gear,” she recalled, “and crossed the finish line bruised, scratched up and in love.” Nothing makes the heart grow fonder than a heart-pounding grueling effort
mind + body
Bend Racing Team Chelsea Magness Age: 37 Born: Anchorage, Alaska Residence: Bend, Oregon
Jason Magness Age: 46 Born: La Jolla, California Residence: Bend, Oregon
WORKOUT Jason Magness trains for multisport adventure races and coaches others for endurance and success.
to get a medal at the finish line of a torturous race. “The Patagonian Expedition Race holds a special place in my memory,” Jason said. “We’ve done it six times in our quest to win it. I proposed to Chelsea on the podium in 2010.” Nothing says, “In sickness and in health,” like a race high in the Andes that includes mountaineering, trekking, trail running, mountain biking and kayaking. The couple has raced together in more than sixty races throughout the world. And there are plenty of races to come. As of this writing, they were about to compete in Adventure Race Panama, an endurance racing circuit that includes orienteering, trekking, mountain biking, kayaking, canyoning and climbing, through mangroves, mountains, jungles and more, for a grand prize of $25,000. There’s also the Webo 24-hour mountain bike world championship coming up. And the Endless Mountains Adventure Race
(teams have five days to complete a 342-mile course through the sprawling Pennsylvania wilds). And the AR World Championships, too, this year in Paraguay. The Magnesses, through Bend Racing, can help you, yes, you, become physically uncomfortable and mentally exhausted, too! Bend Racing offers training and puts on races, including the annual Expedition Oregon race. “The biggest advice I could give is to start small,” Jason Magness said. Start small to go big. “Set a goal or enter a smaller race and don’t quit. Finish your goal and keep adding on to it, knowing you’ll succeed. Success breeds success.” Success comes in many forms. The pain of a race doesn’t equal the elation having finished one. And, to be sure, a blown out hip in the middle of nowhere can lead to wedded bliss. A love of pushing one’s limits, put Jason and Chelsea together. Often, the journey is the reward.
“The idea of having to rely on the power of the mind to control and force the failing body to move forward instead of shutting down is powerful.”
CM: “Right now we are training for Panama Expedition Racing so it is usually this: Bike or run for an hour to an hour and half and then paddle for 30 min. The bike and run vary between tempo and base.” JM: “A typical day I am running a mile first thing in the morning (usually with Chelsey and the neighbors), then doing a bit of yoga/stretching as the kids eat. Most days will then have a HIT hill or bike workout on the trainer, or a longer Z2 volume work of about 90 min.”
NUTRITION CM: “My current diet is moderationmoderation in all things including moderation. I try to eat all the colors, keep up on my protein, and eat to fuel my efforts.” JM: “I try to eat as well as Chelsey, focusing on lean protein as my first meal. And then pretty healthy the rest of the day (80% plant based). But I LOVE peanut butter cups, IPA, jelly beans and an extra cup of coffee (or two) somedays.”
INSPIRATIONS CM: “My husband, teammate and coach Jason inspires me more than anyone I know. His drive, excitement and passion for the sport are contagious and so amazing to be around.” JM: ”Being out there with my wife and kids is pretty amazing. Especially seeing the kids discover things for the first time and being so excited by every adventure.”
— Jason Magness, of Bend Racing
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artist in residence
History, Dreams and Identity Multidisciplinary artist Intisar Abioto brings Black Oregonians into the foreground written by Daniel O’Neil
FOR THE LAST few years, Intisar Abioto has been sifting through images made by Oregonians whose names most wouldn’t recognize. Painters and photographers, men and women from the previous or current century, yet all sharing one characteristic that obscured recognition or fame–all are Black. Now, Abioto is revealing some of the state’s creative past, casting light on Black Oregonian artists and the latent discrimination that has kept their names less known, for an upcoming exhibition at the Portland Art Museum. A photographer herself, Abioto works the negative into positive. “You have to tell a story to bring things to communal consciousness,” Abioto said. “This exhibition is a big part of that–the history of white supremacy in the arts and our ability to look at that squarely.” Abioto grew up in a Memphis, Tennessee Portland’s Sharita Towne, a Black artist and home that breathed art into her and her educator from the Pacific Northwest, recfour sisters. Their father—a musician, ognizes Abioto’s innate compassion. arts educator and storyteller—be“She has such a deep well of love longed to a theater company and for Black people everywhere, and used his talents to share the muthis is what grounds her work,” sic and culture of Western AfTowne said. “Intisar brings inrica and Black America. Their sight, grit and vision, and I’d mother—a storyteller, cook even say magic, to research and writer—instilled in her and curation, and she brings girls the magic and discovery energy and a whole lot of that good stories possess. “I might to Portland’s art scene.” got the feeling, the sense, of Back at Wesleyan, Abioto storytelling, how art feels, not and her sisters had crafted a just the technical parts like how project examining the effects of to make it,” Abioto said. the Atlantic slave trade diaspora In the summer of 2010, Abioon contemporary global Black life. to, her mother and sisters traded “The People Could Fly,” they called Memphis for Portland, inspired by the it, borrowing the title from a favorite food scene and ready for a new experibook of theirs while growing up, which ence. Having just finished a Bachelor of Arts recounted African-American folktales. Intisar Abioto is a multidisciplinary artist, in dance at Wesleyan University, Abioto photographer, Once in Portland, that project became lodancer and writer. (photo: AnAkA) brought dynamic creativity with her. She calized. “Black people had been here living got to know people through dancing. She took photos. And, their lives, but that feeling was not the tone of what you got exploring on foot and bike, following what she calls “the small when talking about this region, city or state,” Abioto said. “Hisinteraction of the street to the broader awareness of place,” tory, dreams, who we are: there’s the painful history, but there’s Abioto learned about the displacement of Black and of indig- also just Black life.” enous communities in and around Portland. What she discovAbioto’s series of photographic portraits, “Black ered sometimes shocked Abioto. “In my first three years here, Portlanders,” soon appeared on her blog. From there nobody mentioned Williams Avenue,” she said. “Realizing it had it expanded into print as a magazine, “Black Portbeen a hub for the Black community felt like a ghost story.” lands,” published in 2015 by Travel Portland, which 42 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Photos: Intisar Abioto
Selections from Intisar Abioto’s “Black Portlanders” photo project.
Sharita Towne
Elijah Hasan
artist in residence
FROM TOP Abioto dances as part of her “Black Legend, Black, Oregon” exhibit in the Oregon State Capitol. Abioto’s “Sugar Lee: An Installation and Performance,” part of group show “Brown Sugar: Where We At,” curated by Christine Miller.
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featured full-length interviews with Abioto’s subjects. “I was drawn to the spirit of the people that could only be communicated through those Black Portlanders portraits,” Abioto said. “‘Black Portlanders’ is just part of the diaspora story. It’s still ‘The People Could Fly.’” Over the following years, Abioto showed her photographs in solo exhibitions at venues including Portland State University, the University of Oregon’s White Box Gallery, and the Oregon Capitol. While working with the Oregon Historical Society to document and register historic Black locales in Portland, Abioto came into contact with the Portland Art Museum. The museum’s curator of Northwest art, Grace Kook-Anderson, soon asked Abioto if she would like to curate an exhibition on Oregon’s Black artists in 2023. “I loved the honor and intimacy she brought to the subjects in her photos, and the historical research she was already doing,” Kook-Anderson said. Curious about the Black artists of Oregon who preceded her, Abioto honors that lineage with this exhibition. “It seemed like a great opportunity to celebrate the artists that were here, but also, in a loving way, to look critically at the collection and point to what’s missing.” Abioto said she wants the upcoming “Black Artists of Oregon” exhibition to help form a support system for Black artists. “There was no arts institution or museum for these artists,” Abioto said. “Imagine that had happened on Williams Avenue. There would be Black-owned galleries and fine arts institutions today. But that development was, and is still being, interrupted. It’s about getting everyone back on the path to what should be here.”
“She has such a deep well of love for Black people everywhere, and this is what grounds her work. Intisar brings insight, grit and vision, and I’d even say magic, to research and curation, and she brings energy and a whole lot of might to Portland’s art scene.” — Sharita Towne, Portland artist and educator
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STARTUP 48 WHAT’S GOING UP 50 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 52 MY WORKSPACE 54 GAME CHANGER 56
Emmy Award-winning cameraman Jeff Daly returns to Astoria to clown around with purpose.
Joni Kabana
pg. 54
Baker County, OR open for year-round recreation
more info at www.travelbakercounty.com
startup
Catching Fire The startup Instinct wants to put them out written by Jonathan Shipley ABOVE Instinct offers wireless automated data collection for land owners. AT RIGHT Datta, 23, has a passion for data and the environment.
THE FIRE OF entrepreneurship is burning in a garage in Hillsboro. Ashwin Datta, 23, an MIT graduate with a bachelor’s degree in environmental engineering, is currently living in his mother’s house and developing a new technology to combat tangible effects of global warming. Datta has ideas about how to help combat climate change in the Pacific Northwest and beyond with his new business, Instinct. Instinct is a land management tool, offering wireless automated data collection for land owners. Datta, along with Trevor Bachard, also 23, hopes to revolutionize how to manage land. Instinct is currently in the pilot phase and actively seeking investors. The main pillars of their work are wildfire detection and soil health management. “Every wildfire starts with a spark,” Datta said. “We want to detect it before it’s anything more than that.” Nearly 85 percent of wildland fires in the United States are caused by humans. In 2020, 13.7 million acres burned nationally. Fire suppression cost $3.63 billion. More than 18,000 structures were destroyed by fire. Oregon’s 2021 wildfire season outpaced the 2020 season, with nearly ten times as many acres burned compared to the prior year, according to the National Interagency Fire Center. The surge in burned acres was mainly due to an abnormally dry spring coupled with low snowpack levels amid an ongoing drought. Datta fears these abnormalities will become the new normal and believes Instinct’s data collection tools can help mitigate those fires. “We can use our tools to detect fires before they spread.” The automation will give land owners the ability to use 48
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their time, money, energy and resources elsewhere. The sensors will alert the customer and, importantly, interact with emergency responders. “Before the customer is alerted,” said Datta, “emergency responders will already be on their way to put out the fire.” Two timber companies have already contracted with Instinct in their pilot phase. Instinct’s hardware and software can also help in the agricultural sector. Last year was a hot one in Oregon. One day in Portland, for example, reached 116 degrees, hotter than Dallas, Miami, or Los Angeles had ever been. With withering heat, there are fears of drought, water usage and water waste. Farmers can use Instinct to monitor soil moisture levels acre by acre. “It gives people real time data to make informed decisions about where to allocate water,” he said. “By doing so, it saves both money and water.” Datta believes Instinct would also be a good fit for the burgeoning field of Oregon wine growers. Entrepreneurship comes naturally for Datta. As a freshman at Glencoe High School and a coder, he was selected to help develop a national STEM website and was also seeking a patent for remote-controlled retractable holiday lights. Currently, Datta and Bachard are Instinct’s only employees as they continue to test and raise money. Field testing throughout the year, Datta said, will help them get to a finished product by spring 2023. “It’s rewarding and challenging,” Datta said of the startup launch. “We’re a very small but passionate team.” In the end, what matters most to the founders of Instinct is preserving the natural world through their skills and experiences.
What’s Going Up?
Summer Brews A slew of new breweries and tap rooms emerge from hiatus written by Jonathan Shipley MANY OREGONIANS have something in common with Thomas Jefferson—they believe beer is good. “Beer, if drank with moderation,” Jefferson wrote, “softens the temper, cheers the spirit and promotes health.” There are many Oregonians cheering that spirit with new breweries and taprooms. Here are some of those halls of health. BREAKSIDE BREWERY Breakside Beaverton is coming. What was first planned to be an outdoor only space with a shipping container bar and food trucks has expanded into a full-scale beer garden, food truck pod and pub. There are also whispers of creating a private event space, too. Cheers! FUNKY FAUNA ARTISAN ALES Sisters has a new brewery focusing on producing terroir-driven beers through the use of local and sustainable ingredients. Brewer Michael Frith and his wife, Danielle, run the operation. They’re originally from another beer-centric area: Denver, Colorado. STEEPLEJACK Steeplejack is building a beer temple in Hillsboro. New School’s Best New Brewery of 2021, as chosen by a group of industry experts, Steeplejack’s new digs have a church-like vibe. People will revere such beers as Wainwright Belgian IPA, Brewers Breakfast oatmeal lager, and Millow Whitbier, a fruity, light, refreshing white beer. VAN HENION A new taproom will tap into Bend’s beer culture by way of Van Henion Brewing Company. Founded by Boneyard Beer head brewer, Mark Henion, his wife, Dana Henion, and brewer John Van Duzer, this brew crew is opening a space on Bend’s northeast side in the former Boneyard production brewery.
Hillsboro’s new Steeplejack proves what we’ve long known—Oregon beers are to be worshipped.
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Taste the Difference!
Our crabbers are stewards of the sea; which is why we practice sustainable harvesting across our fleet, ensuring the flavor of Oregon continues for generations to come.
Support Hard Working Oregon Fishermen oregondungeness.org
Willamette University
what i’m working on
Design for a Better Planet Skye Moret has traveled the world to bring insight on how to preserve it interview by Jonathan Shipley
“I WANT TO empower people to feel responsible for each other and the planet,” said Skye Moret. She’s been around the planet. In fact, the 40-year-old data-driven designer and marine scientist has sailed 100,000 miles around the globe. Marrying her scientific studies with art and design, Moret is currently the Chair of Collaborative Design and Design Systems graduate programs at Pacific Northwest College of Art at Willamette University. For the layperson, what is collaborative design? Collaborative design is the intersection of applied systems thinking, participatory engagement, and design— in other words, designing with people rather than for people. When we stop and think about it, our objects, education, currency, cities, social structure, and more have all been designed, and there are inherent power structures embedded in that design. Ideally, we would see collaborative design implemented within all areas of design in the future, harnessing the creative power of the collective and communities over the priorities of the few. What came first for you, science or art? Why do you find it important to intersect them? When I was young, I considered science and art to be one in the same with no distinction—both allowed me to be creatively curious in similar ways. The typical distinctions between art and science are that art tends to be more conceptual, nuanced, and reflective, whereas science is objective, explicit and measured. For information designers like me, the intersection of the two inspires meaningful engagement on a more human level. 52 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Skye Moret teaches new paths to cardon reduction through design at Willamette University.
You’ve studied oceanic plastic pollution and created visual work based on those studies. Are you hopeful for change? Microplastics were recently found in our blood. Are we too far gone? The goal of my data art installations about marine plastic pollution is to embolden our collective capacity for change at scales that make a difference. Ocean plastic is one of those ‘wicked problems’ that just seems too big. And it is intractable until you scale the issue down into actionable interventions like coastal cleanups, installing storm grates, urban street cleanups, changing personal consumer choices, etc. You’ve traveled the world. What are your biggest concerns? After seeing acute glacial melting firsthand while working in Antarctica, I am deeply concerned with increasing climate change and our corresponding apathy. I am equally concerned with how we can create meaningful engagement in a time of unprecedented disconnection from each other. My visualization work seeks to address both. Design has the capacity to highlight shared values between people from differing geographies and perspectives and it creates connection.
You’re heading soon to Sri Lanka. Why? I will be doing design fieldwork in Batticaloa, Sri Lanka for ‘Dinacon’, a digital naturalism convening in which biologists, designers, engineers and artists explore new ways of interacting with nature. I am planning visual experiments that reveal coastal ecosystems in new and engaging ways with similar aims to my previous work: finding compelling natural insights through visualization and then creating information design that connects and delights. Other projects on your horizon? I would like to explore the most climate-vulnerable ecosystems through visual storytelling and essays in an effort to protect these habitats at risk while we can still build both environmental and social capacity for resilience. Also, I have been given the incredible opportunity to develop a climate-related design graduate program with a justice focus. I want to continue to educate and shape minds of all ages and influence how we connect with each other and the planet through visual and engaging design and storytelling that bridges divides.
White Wolf Sanctuary is home to ambassador wolves that serve the purpose of raising awareness about the importance of wolves and the role they play in the natural world. The sanctuary is located in the coastal mountain setting of Tidewater, Oregon where the wolves live in spacious natural habitats allowing them to roam as freely as possible. Join us for a guided educational experience that will give you more insight into what we do at White Wolf Sanctuary and a better understanding of one of nature's most fascinating animals. BOOK YOUR TOUR DIRECTLY FROM OUR WEBSITE AT:
DA RS TO U
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my workspace
Just Clowning Around Emmy-winning cameraman Jeff Daly returns to Astoria to restore a piece of its past written and photographed by Joni Kabana
What’s a guy to do after he is awarded two Peabodys and an Emmy for knuckle-clutching TV sports filming? Go back home. That is precisely what Jeff Daly did in the ’90s. He made his way back to the Pacific Northwest, settled in Seaside and opened his delightfully eclectic studio space in Astoria on the first floor of a boat house that juts out over the mighty Columbia River.
Daly’s first foray into art car design was in 1969 when he acquired his first car—a 1948 Mercury Woody station wagon that he still drives today. When he realized he had to make a serious wage to be able to pay for all of his expanding projects, he took a career side trip to become a top notch TV cameraman. Having honed a keen eye for artistic flair from an early age, Daly’s shot of Tiger Woods’ “Nike ball hanging on the lip at the Masters” in 2005 contributed to an Emmy and is considered to be one of the best sports shots of all time.
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my workspace
Something called him back home to Astoria, the place where he had grown up the son of one of the original “Astoria Clowns,” the group credited with getting Astoria’s Megler bridge built. He wasn’t exactly sure where his new path might take him, but one thing was for sure, he had a strong desire to find the old Astoria Clown Car and restore it for the fiftieth anniversary of the Astoria Clowns. Daly found it in the ghost town Shaniko, Oregon, towed it home, flipped it backwards onto a new chassis so it appears to drive backwards and the rest is history.
It wasn’t long after moving to Astoria before Daly picked up his camera again. This time, he turned his energy toward producing a documentary (Where’s Molly?) about his younger sister who was removed from their home when he was 6 years old and reunites with her forty-seven years later. He has also created numerous films for local organizations and political positions, most recently a YouTube hit, Helmet John - Astoria is Home.
Today, he still builds and tinkers with art cars (The Glam Tram, The Joy Train, and a 1928 rat rod), but he also has expanded into developing the Astoria Underground Tours and building a supersonically colorful AirBnB called, “The Wunderground Experience” in his warehouse studio. All that, and he still finds time to produce light shows and project films onto buildings to brighten and entertain during the winter months. To consider Daly an original is an understatement. But, to him, he’s just clowning around.
SEE MORE
See more of Jeff Daly’s work and book an Astoria Underground Tour at www.oldastoria.com.
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game changer
Conservation Through Education White Wolf Sanctuary in Alsea teaches the ecological importance of wolves to the facility’s visitors THERE’S NOT MUCH to see in the unincorporated fishing hamlet of Tidewater, save the post office, a smattering of cabins and an abandoned gas station along the Alsea River as it slouches toward the Pacific. But stop and listen, and you might hear howling from a plateau overhead, scattering ravens, and echoing through the coastal Douglas fir canopy. The intermittent sound show comes courtesy of the residents at White Wolf Sanctuary, a 501c(3) nonprofit that is currently home to a half-dozen aging wolf-dog hybrids, which are living out their days inside expansive pens surrounded by towering fences on a wooded 35-acre refuge. The place is sort of like a canine assisted living facility, scattered with bones from elk parts and such donated by local hunters. Six days a week, visitors with appointments can trek to the site through a locked gate, and up a mile of winding gravel through the Weyerhaeuser property. The $75 tours ($25 for kids 12 and under) begin with an hour-long class about the ecological importance of wolves in the wild. Then, a walkabout and up-close encounters with the starring attractions, who will eye you suspiciously from the other side of the chainlink. Well, except for 14-year-old Sakarri, a snowy white alpine wolf mix who walks gingerly and is known for begging for the tour guide to scratch her neck. There’s no touching of the animals, however, for the general public, says senior volunteer guide Nichola Chudzik, who gets emotional when she talks about the hunting body counts of wolves across the country, including just outside the boundaries of Yellowstone National Park. Despite their wild appearance and the hair-of-your-neckraising howling, the dogs at White Wolf Sanctuary aren’t actually purebred wolves—although genetically, they’re close, said executive director Mace Loftus, a breeder and wolf ambassador who has led White Wolf Sanctuary since the founder stepped down in 2017. He calls them “high-content wolf hybrids.” The current six residents—five white arctic wolf hybrids, and one grey wolf hybrid—were ambassador dogs or pets that were abandoned, he said. All were born in captivity. Wolves in the wild will live to maybe 7 years of age, so the residents here are decidedly long in the tooth, with two hybrids turning 15 this spring and the rest turning 9 or 10. There are plans to add more animals, Loftus said. Five years ago, there were 12. The nonprofit is licensed by the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife and stays afloat—including paying for hundreds of 56 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Photos: Terie Loftus
written by James Sinks
White Wolf Sanctuary in Alsea introduces visitors to residents of the refuge for the hybrid animals left behind.
pounds of meat—through sponsorships, donations, and cashflow from tours and from the gift shop. The pandemic was a haymaker punch to the bottom line because visitor traffic disappeared almost overnight, and as a result slowed plans to re-do fences, add a parking lot, and—hopefully someday—construct a visitor center along Highway 34, Loftus said. Public interest is slowly rekindling, however. The mission is conservation through education, Loftus said. “Most people have no idea we exist, but it is such a neat place for bringing people to have a small day trip experience. The main idea is to get people to want to have an appreciation and understanding of the role of wolves in their natural environment.”
7 Prime Spots for
WILDFLOWERS
written by Jean Chen Smith TravelOregon.com/Sparkloft Media
No matter where you live in the state, you are likely within a short driving distance to hikes that reveal the most scenic wildflowers of your region. Whether you are seeking an easy meander or a more challenging hike with elevation, we have a spot for you. So, pack up your hiking bag and lace up those shoes for your next adventure. While all the following locations are currently in bloom, you might try to hit all the prime spots on our list before the end of fall.
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Willamette Valley
West of Corvallis
Marys Peak Trail Type: Includes loops and out and back | Elevation Gain: 4,100 ft. | Difficulty: Moderate to difficult | Wildflower Viewing: Cardwell’s penstemon, glacier lilies, harsh Indian paintbrush and scalloped onion | Tip: Dogs must be leashed. Bring your own water. | For More Information: www.fs.usda.gov
Mount Pisgah Aboretum, southeast of Eugene, couples a good hike with a flower show. (photo: Melanie Griffin/EugeneCascadesCoast.org)
In Eugene-Springfield
Mount Pisgah Arboretum Trail Type: Includes loops and out and back | Elevation Gain: 1,050 ft. | Difficulty: Easy to moderate | Wildflower Viewing: Pink fawn lilies, trilliums, giant white wakerobins and great camas | Tip: A small daily parking fee applies. Dogs must be leashed to protect the arboretum and wildlife. Public restrooms available as well as picnic tables. | For More information: www.mountpisgaharboretum.org and www. eugenecascadescoast.org
For optimal views and some effort to summit, the top of Marys Peak is nearly 4,100 feet, the highest point in Oregon’s Coast Range. Designated as a Scenic Botanical Area due to its rich and diverse botanical offerings, on a clear day you can see the Pacific Ocean to the west and Cascade peaks to the east across the valley. A variety of wide open meadows, encircled by towering noble firs, are home to
wildflowers throughout the summer months. You can find Cardwell’s penstemon, glacier lilies, harsh Indian paintbrush and scalloped onion. All hikes are moderate to difficult, but there are options. They include the Summit Loop, East Ridge, Meadowedge and Tie trails. The hardest is the North Ridge, which is 6.4 miles, and has the most elevation gain climbing many switchbacks.
Marys Peak involves elevation gain and glacier lilies among other wildflowers. (photo: Willamette Valley Visitors Association)
Hiking trails abound on the 209acre park preserve from the banks of the Willamette River to the top of the mountain. It is a 4.5-mile hike to the top of Mount Pisgah and back with an elevation gain of 1,050 feet. There is also a system of easy loops ranging from 0.5 miles to 1.5 miles which snake along the river and include plant labels to educate nature enthusiasts. While strolling the lush property you can expect to spot pink fawn lilies, trilliums, giant white wakerobins along with great camas. The Mount Pisgah Arboretum is a nonprofit arboretum and botanical garden that typically hosts an annual Wildflower & Music Festival in May as well as monthly educational talks and programs. MAY | JUNE 2022
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Wildlife and wildflowers crop up along Eulalona trail near Klamath Falls. (photo: Discover Klamath Visitor and Convention Bureau)
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Southern Oregon
Near Klamath Falls
Moore Mountain Trail System Trail Type: Easy to difficult | Elevation Gain: Approximately 1,309 ft. to the top | Difficulty: Easy to hard | Wildflower Viewing: Bull thistle, Queen Anne’s lace, Oregon sunshine, filaree, Indian paintbrush, purple-eyed grass, sagebrush buttercup and bilobed larkspur | Tip: Dogs must be leashed. | For More Information: www.klamathtrails.org/moore-mountain-area-trails
The Moore Mountain Trail System, which includes the Lower Klamath Basin Trail, is home to a variety of trails ranging from easy to hard. You won’t need to do a long, strenuous hike to reap the rewards of the beautiful scenery. The Lower Klamath Basin Trail, which is approximately 2.1 miles, is an easy hike for all ages. Link River and Eulalona paths are also easy trails that will afford you with wildlife
and wildflowers such as bull thistle, Queen Anne’s lace, Oregon sunshine, filaree, Indian paintbrush, Blooms along Eulalona purple-eyed Trail. (photo: Kamrin Nielsen/Discover grass, sagebrush Klamath) buttercup and bilobed larkspur. Wildflowers start appearing as early as March and can be seen as late as October.
The Moore Mountain Trail System in Klamath Falls offers good singletrack for mountain bikers who can ride through bursts of spring color. (photo: Discover Klamath Visitor and Convention Bureau)
The Moore Mountain Trail System, which includes the Lower Klamath Basin Trail, is home to a variety of trails ranging from easy to hard. You won’t need to do a long, strenuous hike to reap the rewards of the beautiful scenery.
Wildflowers dot Upper Table Rock. (photo: Lanessa Pierce/What To Do in Southern Oregon)
Near Medford/Central Point
The Table Rocks
Trail Type: Out and back | Elevation Gain: Upper Table Rock 720 ft., Lower Table Rock 780 ft. | Difficulty: Easy to moderate | Wildflower Viewing: Gold stars, bicolored lupine, popcorn flower, phacelia, and buckwheat | Tip: Dogs are not allowed on the Table Rocks trails. There is no water available on either hike, so make sure you bring water and stay hydrated. | For More Information: www. travelmedford.org/table-rocks
Upper and Lower Table Rocks are two volcanic plateaus which formed almost 7.5 million years ago with the eruption of a volcano near Lost Creek Lake. Shaped by erosion, they stand 800 feet above the Rogue Valley and are home to many wildflowers including gold stars, bicolored lupine, popcorn flower, phacelia and buckwheat. The wildflowers emerge as early as March and stay for most of spring and summer. Hikers will witness another peak in September and through October! The hike to Upper Table Rock is an easy 2.8-mile trip, gaining 720 feet. The hike up Lower Table Rock is a moderate 5.4-mile trip, gaining 780 feet. Both hikes offer stunning views of the Rogue Valley as well as Mount McLoughlin, Mount Ashland, Roxy Ann Peak and Pilot Rock. MAY | JUNE 2022
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Oregon Coast
Port Orford State Park offers and easy out and back for families seeking an accessible path to wildflowers. (photo: Oregon Parks and Recreation)
In Curry County
Port Orford Heads State Park Trail Type: Loops and out and back | Elevation Gain: 190 ft. | Difficulty: Easy | Wildflower Viewing: Wild iris, cat’s ear and hot-pink salmonberry flowers along the route | Tip: Dogs must be leashed. | For More Information: www. enjoyportorford.com/portorfordheads.html
Port Orford Heads State Park, a coastal state park, has three main trails—the Cove, Tower and Headland, which all begin at the museum. On the Cove trail, you can see remnants of Nellie’s Cove, a boathouse that burned down in the ’70s. The Tower Trail takes you to the historical location of the observation tower, which was used as a lookout point to spot incoming enemy aircraft and ships during World War II. A short walk from the parking lot connects you to the Headland Trail, which leads you to magnificent views of the Cape Blanco Lighthouse to the north and Port Orford and Humbug Mountain to the south. Along each trail, expect to find wild iris, cat’s ear and hot-pink salmonberry flowers. At the Headland Trail viewpoint, look down to the ocean shoreline and you might spot some seals, a popular area for them to lay out. 62
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Central Oregon’s Green Lakes Trail is a rite of passage for spring hikers but an arduous outing, too. (photo: Visit Central Oregon)
Central Oregon
Near Bend
Green Lakes Trail Trail Type: Out and back | Elevation Gain: Varies | Difficulty: Moderate | Wildflower Viewing: Magenta paintbrush, lupine and Lewis’ monkeyflower | Tip: Dogs must be leashed between July 15 and September 15. There are no trash removal services. Carry your trash out with you. Wilderness permits are required for both day use and overnight stays from this trailhead ($5). | For More Information: www.fs.usda.gov
The Green Lakes Trail is a popular hike and there are several access points, but the official entry point is the Green Lakes/Soda Creek trailhead from the Cascade Lakes Highway. A Wilderness Permit of $5 is required for daily parking and can be purchased on-site. The trail is 4.5 to 6 miles and increases in elevation parallel to Fall Creek within the Three Sisters Wilderness, where you might sight magenta paintbrush, lupine and Lewis’ monkeyflower late into summer and early autumn. Between July 15 and September 15 dogs must be leashed. Should you choose to extend the hike, there is a split marker at 2 miles, where you can hike to Moraine Lake.
From the top of Green Lakes Trail, the Cascade Range opens up with views of South Sister. (photo: U.S. Forest Service)
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Put Painted Hills first on your spring bucket list before summer temps roll in. (photo: Ian Stout)
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Eastern Oregon
Purple sage plants bloom at the Sheep Rock Unit at John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. (photo: National Park Service)
Near Kimberly
John Day Fossil Beds National Monument Trail Type: Variety | Elevation Gain: Up to 890 ft. | Difficulty: Easy to difficult | Wildflower Viewing: Rabbitbrush, western goldenrod, hoary aster, snakeweed, gumweed, orange globe mallow, buckwheat, purple sage, yarrow, prairie clover, larkspur, blazing star | Tip: The park is free! Dogs are allowed on trails (and roads) so long as they are on a leash up to 6 feet long and under the control of the owner. Bring water to both the Painted Hills and Clarno Units. | For More Information: www.nps.gov/joda/index.htm
If you have never been to the John Day Fossil Beds, you will want to plan a drive early in the summer when the area is ripe with vibrant hues of purples, yellows and reds. Located in Eastern Oregon, the national monument contains three units known as Sheep Rock, Painted Hills and Clarno. Spread across Wheeler and Grant counties, the units are as much as two hours apart, so be sure to allow for drive time if you intend to see them all. The fossils at John Day offer some of the richest evolutionary records of the Cenozoic Era across 40 million years. The Sheep Rock Unit is the most popular because that is where the visitors center is located along with
the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center. This venue offers seven hiking trails ranging from 0.25 miles to 3.25 miles. Although the window of time for blooming does vary year to year, you can expect to see rabbitbrush, western goldenrod, hoary aster, snakeweed along with gumweed as late as October. The Painted Hills Unit is a striation of reds, tans and oranges, with five trails as well as a picnic area, but there is no water available, so remember to bring your own. Wildflowers are present despite the rugged terrain. The Clarno Unit offers an easy jaunt which will reward you with sights of mariposa lilies, orange globe mallow and purple sage.
If you have never been to the John Day Fossil Beds, you will want to plan a drive early in the summer when the area is ripe with vibrant hues of purples, yellows and reds. MAY | JUNE 2022
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COLD WAR
REFUGE Kelly Butte’s hidden nuclear hideout
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written by Sig Unander
T WAS A lazy late summer day in Portland, not unlike others. It had dawned cloudy but by mid-morning warming sunshine cleared the light overcast. At 10:35 a.m. air raid sirens split the city air with a high-pitched wail signaling an
impending attack. Early warning radar had detected unknown aircraft, possibly Russian bombers, over Canada, on a course for Portland. Deep beneath a forested volcanic butte east of the city, Mayor Terry Schrunk and other key officials hunkered down in the operations room of a two-story underground Command Center designed to preserve city government and maintain communications in the event of a nuclear blast. Firefighters and police went into action as hospitals, schools and offices emptied. Thousands of cars filled main evacuation routes heading out of town. Shoppers crowded into building basement bomb shelters and tuned radios to emergency frequencies. Noon passed. Enemy aircraft were expected over the city at 2:45. People waited anxiously while minutes ticked off.
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As the Cold War threatened to turn hot in the early 1950s, Soviet dictator Joseph Stalin kept a chokehold on eastern Europe. American fighter pilots dueled with Russian MIGs high above Korea. Both superpowers developed arsenals of atomic weapons and longrange bombers to deliver them. Civil defense planning, first prompted by the threat of a Japanese attack on the West Coast during World War II, took on new urgency. Schoolchildren were taught to duck and cover. Backyard fallout shelters were dug, an emergency radio alert system was established and placards with the ubiquitous triangular civil defense logo posted on buildings.
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ortland was at the forefront of these efforts. Strategically located at the confluence of the Columbia and Willamette rivers, the Hiroshima-sized inland seaport was designated a “critical target area” for a nuclear strike, and the city had a plan. In 1952, voters passed a $600,000 levy that enabled major city departments to work together to provide emergency services and educate the public in disaster response. Three years later Portland held a citywide exercise called Operation Green Light, during which 1,000 city blocks and 101,074 residents were successfully evacuated within a half hour. Impressed by this example of planning and civic cooperation, the CBS television network produced a documentary program in which Portland citizens —starring as themselves—re-enacted Operation Greenlight for the cameras. Narrated by actor Glenn Ford, the film shows schoolchildren, office workers, police and fire personnel as they hear alerts and follow planned emergency procedures. Radio announcers cut in with updates and instructions. In one scene, Mayor Schrunk strides briskly through the underground Command Center. Sanding before a wall map, he fixes the camera with a stony gaze and gravely intones, “In less than three hours, an H-Bomb might … fall over Portland.” As updates are given, “THIS IS NOT AN ATTACK” flashes on screen, doubtlessly intended to spare CBS the flak it had received after broadcasting Orson Welles’ panic-inducing 1938 radio drama simulating a Martian invasion of Earth. The television program’s ending was deliberately unresolved, leaving the viewers to consider what they would do in such an emergency. The documentary was filmed in multiple locations in Portland on September 27, 1957 and aired nationally in December of that year as The Day Called X. While it depicted an imaginary attack, it showed what would have occurred had hostile aircraft actually penetrated Oregon’s airspace. The underground Command Center in which Schrunk and other key officials acted out a scenario that fortunately never materialized, was the nerve center of Portland’s civil defense setup. The special levy and matching federal funds paid for construction of a “Disaster Relief and Civil Defense Communications and Control Center” with everything that city leaders, emergency managers and 250 staff would need to keep government functioning for two weeks after a nuclear attack and to coordinate emergency services. A photomap included in the 1954 funding application shows bomb target areas A (downtown Portland) and B (docks and fuel storage facilities downriver) with the Control Center site located on Mt. Tabor. It was
FROM TOP Construction of the Civil Defense Center. Workers prepare concrete forms atop the arch that will become its roof. (photo: City of Portland Archives) Lower floor plan of the Civil Defense center. The upper floor had offices for Portland’s mayor and key officials. (photo: City of Portland) Outside of the bunker. (photo: Joel Newman) An aerial view of Kelly Butte. (photo: Joel Newman)
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later moved to Kelly Butte, a few miles farther from the target areas. The design specification was an 18,820-square-foot two-story rectangle measuring 180 by 90 feet with an arched roof of reinforced concrete two feet thick. Reinforced steel doors and air locks sealed the entrance to prevent blast waves of a 50-kiloton airburst from penetrating. There were “provisions for air conditioning and filtering biological, chemical and radiological agents.” On the east side of the Butte facing away from the target areas, a large plot was cleared, leveled and excavated. A foundation was poured, the structure built and covered with thirty-five feet of packed earth. The facility’s upper floor contained offices for the mayor and commissioners, a kitchen, cafeteria, dormitory and communications center. The lower level housed emergency services managers, dispatchers, a generator, ventilation equipment, food and medical supplies. A 35-foot high operations room common to both levels contained a large wall map of Portland, a podium, desks and cubicles for civil defense and emergency services personnel. Within the bunker, more than three million city documents on microfilm were preserved. Above ground, a 230-foot communications tower was erected. In 1956, the facility was completed and a public dedication ceremony was held. It was prominently featured the next year in the CBS documentary and was a source of civic pride. Just six years later a different kind of emergency tested the command center’s viability. Early on October 12, 1962, remnants of Typhoon Freda merged with warm currents off the West Coast to set up a knockout blow. In one terrifying night, the Columbus Day Storm tore through Oregon, leaving 48 dead, hundreds injured and damages in the billions of (today’s) dollars. Television antenna masts in the West Hills collapsed in the hurricane-force winds but the reinforced tower atop the bunker stood intact. Inside, everything functioned perfectly: emergency personnel continued to send and receive messages and track the storm. Yet the Command Center played no major role in managing the disaster. On that fateful and chaotic night, Mayor Schrunk was out of town. The acting mayor, a Portland city commissioner, elected to direct emergency management operations from City Hall. Governor Mark Hatfield handled statewide emergency management from his office in the Capitol building in Salem. Soon after the storm, the Cuban Missile Crisis took both superpowers to the brink of nuclear war. Commissioner Stanley Earl led an effort to disband Portland’s civil defense program and close the Command Center, arguing that they were a waste of funds and no longer effective in light of more powerful hydrogen bombs
FROM TOP City officials in the Operations Room of the Civil Defense Center. The center dot on the wall map of Portland marks the primary bomb target area. (photo: City of Portland) A threedimensional model of the upper floor of the facility. Henk Pander’s mural fills the Operations Room wall. (photo: Joel Newman) The Civil Defense and 911 Call Center after it was abandoned. The entrance was later buried and the communications tower removed. (photo: Jeff Felker) Behind the bunker’s sealed emergency exit, a passage leads down into the Operations Room. (photo: Sig Unander)
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delivered by missiles. In the summer of 1963, a ballot measure to continue funding the city’s civil defense program failed and the Council voted to end it. Ironically, the city hailed as the poster child for civil defense became the first to defund its model program.
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or a time, the Command Center was used as a training facility by the Portland Police Department. By 1968, it was in suspended animation, maintained by a solitary city worker. In the early 1970s, the facility was converted into a communications center for the newly established Bureau of Emergency Communications. In 1974, BOEC moved in and began handling calls for city and county police agencies. A few years later, it began serving fire and medical responders, upgrading its equipment when the 911 call system was implemented. As it turned out, the operations room, where calltakers toiled at their consoles before glowing computer monitors, had drawbacks. The large room made some people feel claustrophobic, and it had a stark institutional ambiance. Some workers got sick—it was said—from something in the air. There were indications of hazardous dust and seasonal affective disorder, according to Portland historian Jeff Felker. In an effort to cheer up the place and add a feeling of depth and space, noted Portland artist Henk Pander was commissioned to paint a large mural on the operations room wall that operators could see as they worked—a sweeping, surrealistic panorama of the ruins of an ancient Syrian city. In 1992, BOAC moved operations to a new state-ofthe-art above ground call center. Decommissioning the old facility was hasty. Almost everything—equipment, cubicles, furniture, cabinets, lighting, control panels and even records—was simply abandoned. The last person out was a Portland firefighter who searched to ensure no one would be trapped inside. After the bunker was sealed, the communications tower was removed. The site became an object of curiosity and the target of vandals. The concrete entrance, overgrown with vegetation, was defaced with colorful graffiti. City crews hadn’t adequately blocked the emergency escape exit and vents. Thrill seekers and amateur archaeologists worked their way down into the stygian blackness to explore and take photos. Others had different intentions. “Makeshift camps were set up inside the belly of the bunker. The transient force took copper wire, aluminum, food, clothing and historical items,” according to Felker. Within the spooky subterranean realm, its denizens breathed toxic air, consumed drugs, defecated and set fires. Someone splashed black paint on Henk Pander’s mural. To stem the illegal activity,
Henk Pander’s mural on the wall of the Kelly Butte Civil Defense Command Center. (photo: Henk Pander)
The Lost Palmyra Mural After the Kelly Butte Civil Defense Command Center became an emergency call center, artist Henk Pander was commissioned to paint a decorative mural on its main wall. The intent was to provide stressed-out 911 operators a sense of space, timelessness and natural beauty. The composition depicted the ghostly ruins of the Syrian city of Palmyra against a vast, spectral sky. “I wanted it to represent ancient history of a thousand years ago, reminiscent of the Roman Empire,” he recalled. A smaller painting was completed and scaled up. Pander and an assistant, working on scaffolds, gridded off the 30 by 90-foot wall and laboriously painted in the squares. Entrance doors were opened so operators working on the other side of hanging plastic sheets wouldn’t be overcome by paint fumes. The result was the largest indoor mural ever painted in Oregon. “I extended the architecture into space with vanishing points. The elements I painted into the wall are all related to the point where you enter the space, so the illusion was perfect,” Pander noted. “I painted a sky that goes through the spectrum: yellow, orange, green, blue.” The lighting element was also important. A friend set up a computerized projection system so that light falling on the painting “moved slowly through the spectrum in a twentyfour hour (time) cycle” giving workers a sense of day and night within the underground shelter.
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Fifty feet or so beneath the surface lies a dark, cavernous chamber, a Cold War time capsule containing relics both functional and artistic. “It would be a great museum,” Felker said. “That’s what I always envisioned it to be— a Cold War civil defense museum.” more dirt was bulldozed over the site, covering the exit and vents.
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ince Portland was settled Kelly Butte has seen many uses, few with permanence. A county jail was erected in 1906, and in an adjoining quarry, shotgun-toting deputies watched convicts break rocks into gravel for Portland’s expanding street network. An Isolation Hospital on the western slope housed patients with serious communicable diseases. There was a police firing range, a water storage tank and a city park. The war of words between former president Donald Trump and Korean dictator Kim Jong-un and Vladimir Putin’s recent bombast have renewed the specter of nuclear war and raised public interest in civil defense. Bomb shelters are back, more stylish now than the concrete block cubes of the ’50s. Radiation-blocking potassium iodide pills and emergency supplies sell briskly. Given the renewed threat level, could there again be a need for a hardened facility where key officials could ride out an attack, assuring continuity of government? The one-time emergency command center is still there. Environmental and technological upgrades would be required to reactivate it. BOEC spokesman Dan Douthit gets occasional media inquiries but said there are currently no plans to resurrect it. “My suspicion is that, because there was something in the air there that was a challenge for people to work in, that would have to be mitigated. The question would be: Is it
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cheaper to open it back up and clean it out versus starting somewhere else?” The Center site lies near the butte’s 593-foot summit. The access road is blocked by a steel gate. Beyond, the road ascends steeply and the pavement gives way to a patchy field of mud and grass curiously devoid of overgrowth. The roar of traffic below is muted by surrounding stands of Douglas fir and maple, only an occasional bird call breaks the silence. Routine maintenance is absent; no park signs or historic markers provide information or welcome visitors. The atmosphere is one of benign neglect, some say creepy. No homeless camps are visible, but discarded clothing and trash on unmarked trails leading deeper into the forest suggest they are there. At the clearing’s edge where the terrain rises toward the summit lies the only part of the bunker remaining above ground. A low concrete wall protrudes from a rounded earthen berm, an emergency exit now sealed by a graffiti-covered block. Gravel fills an opening below where tunnelers have been at work. Fifty feet or so beneath the surface lies a dark, cavernous chamber, a Cold War time capsule containing relics both functional and artistic. “It would be a great museum,” Felker said. “That’s what I always envisioned it to be—a Cold War civil defense museum.” Even if the one-time command center is never reactivated for civil defense it might still have a useful afterlife as a restored facility educating future generations about a pivotal time in history when the city and nation faced an unthinkable threat.
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ART ABOUT AGRICULTURE written by Kerry Newberry THE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURAL Sciences at Oregon State University is home to an extensive collection of artwork representing hundreds of artists from the Pacific Northwest. Established in 1983, the Art About Agriculture Permanent Collection is built one artwork at a time through acquisitions from the annual juried open call awards competition and touring exhibition. The thirty-ninth annual Art About Agriculture program, The Sustainable Feast, features select artwork from emerging and established artists responding to this year’s food theme. Working closely with Oregon State University’s Food Innovation Center in Portland, the statewide touring exhibition aims to explore the importance of sustainability, diversity and innovation in our food system. The large response to the open call comprised a remarkable range of media, styles and interpretations. The tour launches at the Giustina Gallery on OSU’s Corvallis campus on May 10 and will travel to Crossroads Carnegie Art Center in Baker City on July 1 and Pacific Maritime Heritage Center in Newport on August 5. — Owen Premore, Directing Curator, Art About Agriculture
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Robin Hostick, Crab Season, March 5, 2022, mixed media, 17” x 21” Robin Hostick is a contemporary Pacific Northwest artist, most known for his beautiful landscapes that capture the natural wonders of the American west. In this piece he evokes memories of his childhood on the Oregon Coast. The image is painted directly on a collage of newspaper clippings portraying the uncertainties of the Dungeness crab industry. AT LEFT Lisa Brinkman, Water Mandala, 2021, eco-prints of sumac, eucalyptus, geranium and maple on raw silk canvas, cold wax and oils, 40” x 30” Lisa Brinkman works creatively with natural materials including plant and animal fibers such as mulberry bark, cattail, silk and wool. “It’s my way of tuning into my relationship with Nature through materials and the imaginal process.”
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Emily Miller, Oyster | Cuttlefish | Gyre, 2020, reclaimed fishing rope, 26” x 43” x 8” Emily Miller’s artwork, including sculptures and interactive installations, are inspired by the Pacific Northwest coast and her background in California, Kauai, and Down East Maine. From her “Gyre” series of wall sculptures, this piece is stitched from a mix of “ghost net” fishing rope debris washed up on shore, as well as fishing gear recycled by commercial fisheries.
Loren Nelson, Pumpkin Field, Sauvie Island, 2021, original iPhone 8+ image, processed in Photoshop, and printed on Hahnemühle Photo Pearl Fine-Art paper using archival pigment inks In 1972, Loren Nelson picked up a Deardorff view camera, and has been organizing the world on a 4 by 5-inch piece of frosted glass ever since. His work has been widely exhibited in western United States, and his photographs are in numerous permanent public and private collections, including IBM, Oregon State University and the Portland Art Museum.
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Euphemia Wesley, Farmers Union Building, 2019, oil, 14.5” x 11.5” Euphemia Wesley is an artist based in Eugene. She often paints landscapes that capture a sense of tranquility. This piece is of the historic Farmers Union Coop building that now houses a home and garden store. “Who could resist painting such a gorgeous old building against one of Oregon’s bluest summer skies.”
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Hsin-Yi Huang, The Magnificent Fungi, 2022, high-fired porcelain, 8” x 9” x 9” (photographer of piece: Annie Foong) Hsin-Yi Huang is a Portland-based ceramic artist and specializes in porcelain sculpture. She uses a combination of wheel-throwing and hand-building to express forms and patterns found in nature.
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Bill Marshall, PLEASE DON’T LEAVE MONEY, 2022, acrylic, 12” x 14” An artist based in Albany, Oregon, Bill Marshall paints whatever captures his imagination, which is most often nature and Pacific Northwest landscapes. He experiments depending on the scene, ranging from watercolor, pastels (both soft and oil), acrylic, pen and ink, charcoal, colored pencil, graphite, gouache and casein.
Andries Fourie, Powell Butte Romneys, 2022, mixed media. 30” x 40” Andries Fourie is an Oregon-based artist, curator and educator. A native of South Africa, he has a master’s degree in art from California State University, Sacramento, and a master of fine art from The University of California, Davis. He is primarily a mixed-media artist and has exhibited his work in South Africa, Canada, Namibia, Kenya and the United States.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 80 ADVENTURE 82 LODGING 84 TRIP PLANNER 86
pg. 86 For Mother’s Day, get away to one of the handful of luxury resorts of Central Oregon, such as Pronghorn, and relax in the high desert.
Pronghorn
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92
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travel spotlight
Bombastic Heritage Expect wild tales and wildlife at Fort Stevens State Park written by Joni Kabana THERE’S A HAUNTING LINE in the lyrics of the song “I Was Brought To My Senses” by singer-songwriter Sting that reads: “And out of the confusion, where the river meets the sea, came things I’d never seen, things I’d never seen.” If you’ve ever ventured to the upper northwest corner of Oregon and witnessed the swells that occur when the mighty Columbia River rushes to meet incoming Pacific Ocean tides, these words would barely scratch the surface of the impression of what you’d see in those treacherous waters. Dubbed the “Graveyard of the Pacific,” many a sailor has gone down with the ship while trying to cross this navigational nightmare. Since 1792, some 2,000 ships have sunk in these unforgiving swells formed over a long stretch of sandbar, and notoriously dangerous conditions can arise swiftly without warning. Today, expert bar pilots well educated on the unpredictable confluence patterns assist ships coming and going, giving viewers from the safety of Astorian sea decks a delightful daily awe-inspiring maritime show. The remains of one shipwreck still stand on the shore of Fort Stevens State Park, an old military fort that guarded this Pacific Northwest entry point from the Civil War until World War II. Today, people gather to watch the sunset silhouetting the metal skeleton of the Peter Iredale, a British ship that ran aground in 1906 en route to picking up fine Oregon wheat. This sweet spot in Oregon is rich in local history and lore. Day trips will certainly prove to be too short to see the many interesting museums, natural landscapes, salty-dog bars and fish stands that Fort Stevens and the surrounding area have to offer. Consider pulling into the 4,300 acre park to camp so that you can hike on the many trails, beachcomb for lost diamonds, view abundant wildlife and ponder the extremities—from weather to wild tales to fishing hyperbole. Reservations are recommended and required for stays in yurts. Fort Stevens enjoys the reputation of being the only military fort in the United States to be invaded by an enemy during wartime (after the War of 1812) when it was attacked by a Japanese submarine in June 1942. Take an underground tour of a gun battery that served as a World War II command center during summer. For tour information, call the Friends of Old Fort Stevens at 503.861.2000. The hull of the Peter Iredale, a British ship that ran aground in 1906 in what is now Fort Stevens State Park.
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adventure
Justin Myers/Oregon Coast Visitors Association
Oregon Coast Adventures From Brookings to Astoria, the Oregon Coast has more than 350 miles of bucket list items for you written by Jen Sotolongo
One bucket list item on the Oregon Coast is kayaking among the arches and seastacks on the southern coast.
THE OREGON COAST may not be the kind of place where you soak up the sun while sipping an umbrella drink and that’s quite all right with Oregon residents. Instead, the Oregon Coast offers an array of adventurous activities that encourage visitors to truly explore the landscape. From surfing and paddling to clamming and tidepool hunting, the Oregon Coast won’t leave you yearning for a beach chair and colorful drink.
Surfing Oregon, and the Pacific Northwest in general, may not come to mind when it comes to surfing, but the Oregon Coast is actually a terrific spot for both beginners and advanced surfers. Otter Rock, located right in between Portland and Eugene, offers a protected break with consistent 2- to 4-foot waves. The large stretch of sand allows surfers to spread out as they earn their sea legs. Stay at nearby Beverly Beach State Park for easy access to the shore and maximum attempts at riding that wave. 82
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Rent boards and take lessons from Pura Vida Surf Shop in Otter Rock or Ossies Surf Shop in Agate Beach. A full wetsuit year round is essential, given the frigid temps of the Pacific, which range between 48 and 52 degrees.
Clamming The Oregon Coast is stocked with seafood delights such as crab, mussels, fish, and, of course, clams. Captain Cameron, based out of Lincoln City, takes guests to the mudflats of
adventure
Siletz Bay. In addition to digging for clams, guides provide an in-depth education on regulations, harvesting and identification techniques, as well as tips for cleaning and cooking. If you prefer to go out on your own, head to Kelly’s Brighton Marina in Rockaway Beach, a small town 15 miles north of Tillamook. They can ferry you across the Nehalem Bay to spend a few hours on the beach in search of Purple Varnish clams. Hand over your haul to Kelly’s, where they will soak them for twenty-four hours and cook them once they are clean. Those interested in crabbing can crab directly off the dock or rent a boat from Kelly’s. They will cook the catch for you when you are done. Camping and fresh seafood are also available at the marina. All clammers over the age of 12 must possess an Oregon shellfish license, available in various stores or online at the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife. You’ll also need a bucket, shovel and gloves.
Hiking
Tidepools
Kayaking
Make your low tide beach walks more interesting and fun by searching for tidepools. Tidepools are nature’s aquariums and can be found in residual seawater left behind in rocks and sand during low tide. They are filled with sea life including star fish, anemones, and crabs. Hopping from tidepool to tidepool is like finding hidden treasure. Tidepools are found all along the Oregon Coast, but some of the best spots include Yachats State Park, the north side of Heceta Head Lighthouse near Florence, Short Sand Beach in Oswald West State Park near Manzanita and Cape Arago State Park in Coos Bay. Be sure to consult a tide table before you head out and hit the beach one to two hours before low tide. Leave what you find and be mindful of where you step.
One of the best ways to explore the Oregon Coast is by kayak or paddle board. The Southern Oregon Coast features near-shore reefs, arches, and abundant wildlife viewing. South Coast Tours, located in Port Orford, offers several kayaking tours. Kayak Brookings - Ocean Tour combines the best of the Southern Oregon Coast into one incredible paddling adventure. The beginner-friendly trip begins in the calm waters of the Chetco River estuary before entering the Pacific Ocean at Chetco Point, which protects the waters from wind and rough waters. Gray whales and Harbor Seals are common sights on this two-hour tour. More advanced paddlers can opt for the Kayak the Arches Territory trip, which explores the sea caves, rock arches, and islands found in the remote Crook Point National Wildlife Refuge located in the Samuel Boardman State Scenic Corridor. Oregon Coast Visitors Association
The Oregon Coast is particularly special thanks to the Coastal Range, which means visitors can enjoy forested hikes with ocean views all along the coast. Options range from short and easy trails to double digit miles with significant vertical gain. All this means is that there is something for all abilities. The Fort to Sea Trail is a 6.1-mile mostly flat hike that begins at Fort Clatsop and ends on the beach at Sunset Beach State Recreation Area. This can be done as an out and back or with a shuttle. During the spring and fall, Cape Lookout, located between Netarts and Pacific City, is one of the best spots to see migrating gray whales, among other wildlife. The five-mile trail is fairly flat, making it a good option for families. In the Southern Oregon Coast, hike to the top of Humbug Mountain. At 1,765 feet, Humbug is one of the tallest peaks on the coast, offering expansive ocean views from the top.
ABOVE, FROM LEFT Cape Lookout, near Netarts on the coast, is a prime spot for whale watching in spring. Tidepooling at Meyers Beach on the Oregon Coast.
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Photos: Bob McClenahan
ROOMS The main building offers eight contemporary guest rooms spanning three floors. Each room varies in size and layout, providing a diversity of experiences and price points. Modern details and whimsical artwork curated by Cora J. Design, lend a playful tone to the Inn. Core amenities are the same in every room, but for added perks, book Room 6 for the sumptuous soaking tub and fireplace, or Room 4 which offers a large balcony and sitting area.
FEATURES CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Setting Inn in the pastoral wine country town of Newberg. The inn’s courtyard with a firepit and lounge. Room 6 with soaking tub and fireplace. Continental breakfast at Setting Inn.
Lodging
The Setting Inn written by Kerry Newberry ONE OF THE Willamette Valley’s long standing getaways had a modern makeover last summer and reopened as The Setting Inn. Owners Jeff Cova and Noah McMaha, also founders of a sister property in Napa, partnered with local makers and producers to build connections to the nearby Newberg community. The bright and airy main room with vaulted ceilings and gracious windows welcomes with natural light and minimalist decor. A smattering of art posters and wine books gives a cool aunt vibe—you know, the one who wears caftans, travels to Porto and has a kitchen garden. Speaking of gardens, the outdoor landscaping is the high point of the property. Come spring and summer, this is where you want to stay. The outdoor terrace has multiple gathering spaces from a corner with swing chairs and poufs to a cluster of Adirondacks circling firepits. Elegant cypress trees and tropical foliage frame the courtyard and a mini-vineyard built just for guests to experience tucks into a corner behind the Inn. Take a coffee walk in the morning to catch a sunrise and spy the neighboring farm’s goats and horses roaming. Set up as a mini-summer camp for adults, the patio also has cornhole, croquet and badminton and a full bocce court overlooking the Chehalem Ridge. A sleek white barn stocked with board games, cozy sofas and a playful plant wall is prime for wine sipping and relaxing. Only minutes from downtown Newberg, book dinner reservations at one of many standout restaurants—from fine dining at The Painted Lady to the Frenchinspired Recipe. Casual options include the husband-and-wife team run Honey Pie Pizza, Storrs Smokehouse and Good Company Cheese. Ask for winery recommendations, and you can get a day of pre-planned tasting reservations or you can go the adventurous route and tour wine country by horse with Equestrian Wine Tours or Hot Air Balloon with Vista Balloon Adventures. 20300 OR-240 NEWBERG www.thesettinginnwillamette.com
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Gorgeous gardens pop across the tenacre property including lavender rows, towering Cyprus, northwest fruit trees and a boutique vineyard. The stylish and spacious courtyard has a breezy lounge feel with swing chairs, firepits and giant palms. It’s the expansive selection of lawn games, however, that steals the show. In addition to cornhole, croquet and badminton, the property has a full bocce court. On rainy days, tuck into the adjacent beautiful white barn, also stocked with board games, cozy sofas and cocktail conversation areas.
DINING As a love letter to local, the continental breakfast delivered to each room is simply composed. Find baked bread and pastries from Pearl Bakery, salami from Olympia Provisions and fromage blanc from the nearby Briar Rose Creamery. Also gathered in the rustic box, a bottle of OJ and a can of Stoller’s sparkling wine for mimosas. For dinner, make reservations at one of many outstanding wine country restaurants from Red Hills Market to The Painted Lady, one of Oregon’s most exquisite dining experiences.
AMENITIES All guest rooms have a satellite flatscreen TV with NFL Sunday Ticket and HBO, luxe King beds, Nespresso coffee and local favorite Steven Smith Tea. Ecofriendly bath amenities are sourced from LATHER in their Bamboo Lemongrass Collection scent and plush robes and slippers are on-hand for lounging. On-site parking and wireless wifi is free. The small but functional fitness center features a Peloton bike. Upon request, the staff will create a wine tasting itinerary for guests, including reservations and a car service.
An ignition switch for your engine of ideas.
opb.org
trip planner
Mother’s Day in the High Desert The luxury resorts of Central Oregon are a mom’s best friend written by James Sinks REMEMBER WHEN mom used to take you to the playground? This Mother’s Day—or any day, really—you can return the favor. And when it comes to choosing the right playground, few places on the planet tout more satisfying options than Central Oregon, where a seemingly endless menu of recreation, restaurant, and relaxation options await moms of every age, interest and mobility. Here, happy trails are everywhere, from ski trails to bike trails to river trails to hiking trails, and you can even hop onto the Bend Ale Trail and sample a smorgasbord of breweries. If mom likes clubs as much as diamonds, the area boasts two golf courses ranked highly as girls’ trip destinations by Golf Digest. And if she needs to relax, unroll a yoga mat or unwind at any of dozens of upscale spas and salons. Once known for smoke-belching sawmills and wide-open ranches, the high desert on the east flank on the Cascades began its tourism transformation with the arrival of ski lifts on Mt. Bachelor in 1958. Today, the visitor industry largely drives the economy in and surrounding Bend, Redmond, Prineville and Sisters.
And just as the best playgrounds will have adrenalineinducing slides and jungle gyms, Central Oregon owes its reputation as a world-class tourism hub partly to the destination resorts that began dotting the local landscape around 1970, when Black Butte Ranch opened near Sisters and Sunriver opened on the site of a former U.S. Army Corps of Engineers camp south of Bend. Today, Central Oregon is home to six such resorts including Brasada Ranch, which earned the nod as the best in the western U.S. by Condé Nast Traveler. Another resort is on the drawing board near Redmond. While they have different price points, the resorts all feature lodging, golf, restaurants, pools, and Instagram-worthy views. And mimosas. In fact, mom won’t even need to step foot off the property—but it’s also not far from any of them to Bend, where mom can follow the example of legendary Klondike Kate, a one-time vaudeville singer and dancer who lived downtown from 1917 to the 1950s and was known for being both generous and for always living her best life.
Old Mill District
Mother’s Day begins in Central Oregon at the Old Mill District and shopping at upscale shops.
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Springtime at Tetherow offers outdoor adventures and well-earned relaxation all in one place with breathtaking beauty, versatile lodging, and unlimited fun right outside your front door. Don’t miss our unique Mother’s Day Brunch Experience!
TETHE R O W. CO M
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#TE THE R OW
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BE N D , OR
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877.298.2582
VACATION RENTALS · HOTEL · SHUTTLES · RESORT AMENITIES · CLOSE TO CONCERTS & DOWNTOWN BEND
1859_TetherowApril2022.indd 1
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Visit Central Oregon
trip planner
Tyler Roemer/Sunriver Resort
Brasada Ranch
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The Bledsoe Family Winery is a nice touch for Mother’s Day in Bend. Brasada Ranch serves up the makings for gourmet s’mores. The Aquatic Center at Sunriver Resort is a great place for the whole family to celebrate mom.
Day SUNRIVER RESORT • MEANDER BEND With so many possibilities, the most daunting question might be: Where do you even begin? Luckily, resorts have front desks, and they are eager to help. When you roll into the region, views are everywhere. Snap some family selfies at renowned climbing destination Smith Rock, just north of Redmond. If it’s not time to check in yet, wander the upscale Old Mill District along the Deschutes River and the up-and-coming Box Factory, where you’ll find boutiques and several winery tasting options including Bledsoe Family, based in Walla Walla and owned by a Bend resident and a former professional quarterback. Hungry? In downtown Bend, you can get a mean meatball sandwich from the nice crew at local favorite Planker Sandwiches (they even have gluten free bread). Spring is officially shoulder season in Central Oregon, but you can shrug that off. Here, it’s the opposite of some places where there’s less to do between spring break and summer vacation. The abundance of both cold- and warm-weather outdoor activities is celebrated each spring by the Pole Peddle Paddle relay from Mt. Bachelor into Bend, in which 88 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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racers ski, bike, run, and ply the river in kayaks or stand-up paddleboards. After checking in at Sunriver Resort, you can rent cruisers and explore the pine-forested property on 40 miles of paved trails, or head to the guests-only year-old indoor Cove Aquatic Center, where there’s a waterslide, a lazy river for dad and the kids, and a hot tub and bar for mom. No matter where you land in Central Oregon, there’s bound to be a location of Mexican-Peruvian- themed Hola nearby. At happy hour or later, mom will be very happy about pitchers of margaritas, nachos, and Coca-Cola marinated pork. Are potatoes more her thing? The seasoned fries are so popular at Tetherow’s The Row Pub that it sometimes goes through 500 pounds of spuds per week. Outside, the sky over Central Oregon is typically clear, so you can thank mom (you should thank mom often) under a tapestry of stars. If you’re at Range Restaurant & Bar at Brasada Ranch, you can do it while toasting up s’mores on the fire pits. Or, if your sense of adventure doesn’t go down with the sun, Wanderlust Tours can help you take mom on a moonlight canoe trip.
Scenic backdrops will accompany you on an assortment of hikes, from the popular Deschutes River Trail to the paths that weave through the Newberry National Volcanic Monument, south of Bend.
Crux Fermentation Project
Magma is the mother of Central Oregon. The region owes its rugged landscapes of fissures, rimrock and lava cones to its geologic legacy. Today, those scenic backdrops will accompany you on an assortment of hikes, from the popular Deschutes River Trail to the paths that weave through the Newberry National Volcanic Monument, south of Bend. From the not-all-that-glitters-is-gold department, the black yet shiny Big Obsidian Flow in the Newberry Caldera is easily accessible via a mile-long lollipop-loop trail. If mom would prefer to trek between green things rather than black things, Central Oregon is home to twenty-three golf courses, and the majority of them are open to the public at least part time. The links at Sunriver and also Pronghorn, where one of the courses was designed by legendary pro Jack Nicklaus, each earned mentions on the Golf Digest 2021 list of best places for women’s golf trips. Not far from the golf clubhouse at Sunriver, you’ll find the mellow Sage Springs Club & Spa, where there’s a relaxation room, hot tubs, and massages to ease a little stiffness if it’s sore shoulder season. Joolz in downtown Bend is a Mediterranean oasis, where sultry and exotic flavors like Zaatar and sumac mingle with Northwest ingredients under a decor of lamps, hookahs and skeletal animal horns. Don’t forget reservations, and don’t miss the roasted cauliflower and Pacific seafood tagine. To ease into the night, grab a round at Crux Fermentation Project or another of the twenty-two breweries on the Bend Ale Trail. For entertainment, catch a show at the Tower Theater downtown, dance to a headliner musical act at the Hayden Homes Amphitheater along the river, or see a movie at the Old Francis School, one of the amazing restoration projects by Oregon’s legendary McMenamin clan.
Sunriver Resort
BLACK OBSIDIAN • GREENS
Pronghorn
Day
FROM TOP Newberry National Volcanic Monument is a short drive from Sunriver Resort. Pronghorn has world-class golf and views. Crux brewery is a destination for moms who like only the best beer. Sage Spring Spa at Sunriver offers services that will reset mom’s sense of calm.
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EAT Cafe Sintra www.cafesintrasunriver.com
Visit Central Oregon
CENTRAL OREGON
trip planner
Hola www.holabend.com Joolz www.joolzbend.com Niblick & Greenes (Eagle Crest) www.niblickandgreenes.com Planker Sandwiches www.plankersandwiches.com Ranch House www.brasada.com
STAY Black Butte Ranch www.blackbutteranch.com Brasada Ranch www.brasada.com Eagle Crest www.eagle-crest.com Pronghorn www.pronghornresort.com Sunriver Resort www.sunriverresort.com Tetherow www.tetherow.com
PLAY
When entertainment, history and education are important to families celebrating Mother’s Day, put High Desert Museum on your agenda.
Bend Ale Trail www.facebook.com/BendAleTrail High Desert Museum www.highdesertmuseum.org
Day
Newberry Crater www.fs.usda.gov
BRUNCH • MIMOSAS
Old Mill District www.oldmilldistrict.com Pronghorn Golf www.pronghornresort.com Sage Springs Club & Spa www.sunriverresort.com Wanderlust Tours www.wanderlusttours.com
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You can’t spell mimosa without mom. After a few mimosas, spelling might get a bit more challenging. What’s not a challenge in Central Oregon is finding a decent spot for brunch. Make reservations, however, or expect a long wait. At Portuguese-inspired Cafe Sintra in Sunriver Village, enjoy spicy linguica sausage eggs Benedict, and mimosas with pineapple or orange juice. Wherever you end up, it’s a fine time to toast a weekend of channeling mom’s inner Klondike Kate. For 40 years, the High Desert Museum has been welcoming families to its 135-acre grounds south of Bend. In those early days, not everyone was convinced that people would be interested in a showcase of high desert wildlife and culture. Two generations later, the place attracts almost 200,000 MAY | JUNE 2022
visitors annually (at least, before the pandemic doldrums, and the crowds are coming back) and is partnered with the Smithsonian. On Mother’s Day, moms visit for free— and dads get in gratis on Father’s Day. Stroll the galleries and exhibits, admire bronze art indoors and out, and visit a menagerie of critters, including tortoises, otters and owls. The popular birds of prey show happens at 11 a.m. Remember when the ice cream truck used to roll slowly past the playground, and mom would relent and dig in her purse for change? Find some ice cream truck music on your smartphone, ignore your inner dentist, and make a final pit stop at Goody’s old fashioned ice cream parlor and candy shop. With sticky hands and a happy heart, maybe it’s time to thank mom again.
ge t-a-g o o d
d r in k-in-
The Rooftop at SCP Redmond
AND CHEERS! Featuring a vast array of local, independent brews, Redmond is the ideal place to kick back, grab a drink, and a bite to eat in Central Oregon.
Pursuing excellence through fitness 61615 Athletic Club Drive
(541) 385-3062
northwest destination
West Yellowstone This gateway town is erupting with outdoor experiences written by Tony Camper
OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER and its surrounding 2,2 million acres became the United States’ first national park in 1872, when President Ulysses S. Grant signed it into law. Largely in Wyoming, its western boundary and gateway is the tiny town in southern Montana, West Yellowstone. Nordic skiers know it for its hospitality during regional races. Naturalists and adventurers know it for its basecamp amenities while they explore the region. Everyone should know West Yellowstone for the opportunities it presents. In late spring and into the summer, snow recedes leaving hearty trails to hike, singletrack to ride and rivers to fish. If you enjoy all of these, you’re in for an experience you won’t soon forget. When it comes to visiting Yellowstone, we recommend beginning with a guide or tour service. There is an overwhelming amount of territory and history to consume, and you won’t want to gorge and leave yourself feeling none the better. The Yellowstone Lower Loop Tour takes a full day as you encounter Old Faithful Geyser, hotsprings, buffalo, bears, the 92 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Continental Divide and waterfalls. Let your guides and minds take you back 11,000 years, when Native Americans were learning lessons of the wild as they made this area their home. West Yellowstone offers a number of bus or van guided services that can be customized for your needs. In town, the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center opened in 1993 as a vehicle to save bears that were removed from the wild because of their human interaction, which would otherwise be euthanized. Since then, the center has grown to include wolves, birds of prey and otters. This is a great option if you’re traveling with young children who won’t fare as well on a long van tour. Of course, Montana is known for its trails for hiking and running and its pristine rivers for fly-fishing. One rite of passage is to mountain bike or hike the CDT Targhee Pass. In all, it’s a 14-mile, 4,000-foot climb, but worth the views. Choose a bluebird day! For a more relaxing hike, try a portion of the 13.7-mile out and back Teepee Creek Road. It gains only 1,550 feet over that length and offers majestic views as well.
WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA
Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development
@baileymade_
Neal Herbert/Yellowstone NPS
Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development
northwest destination
EAT Bullwinkle’s Saloon & Eatery www.yellowstonebullwinkles.com Firehole Bar-B-Que Company www.fireholebbqco.com Taqueria Malverde, a food truck on Firehole Ave.
STAY 1872 Inn www.1872inn.com Explorer Cabins at Yellowstone www.yellowstonevacations. com/stay/west-yellowstone/ explorer-cabins-at-yellowstone Under Canvas West Yellowstone www.undercanvas.com/ camps/yellowstone
PLAY Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center www.grizzlyctr.givecloud.co Hike, bike and run nearby trails Yellowstone Lower Loop Tours (choose from many)
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Old Faithful Geyser in Yellowstone is just one spectacle in the spectacular national park. Fly-fishing on the Yellowstone River and others in the area is as good as it gets. At the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone, visitors can get close and learn about the plight of these animals. The tent resort, Under Canvas, is a great way to experience the West.
Just as with the abundance of things to do and know about Yellowstone, likewise are the many rivers around West Yellowstone. It’s no secret that this is bucket-list lust for fly-fishers. In spring and fall, rivers teem with lake-run Brown and Rainbow Trout. The four pinup rivers are the Madison, the Yellowstone, the Gallatin and Firehole. West Yellowstone’s year-round population includes those who came to fish and never left, launching guide services, outfitters and fly shops—Big Sky Anglers, West Yellowstone Guides, Jacklin’s Fly Shop and Arrick’s Fly Shop to name just a few. It’s not hard to eat well in the small town of West Yellowstone. After coming back from a hella ride, run or hike, stop in a Firehole Bar-B-Que Company for a full rack of house-smoked ribs, brisket or pork. Want something a little more in proportion, head next door to the Taqueria Malverde food truck on Firehole Ave. Or kick back a Bullwinkle Saloon & Eatery for soups, salads, wild mushroom pasta or elk ravioli. Book glamp accommodations at Under Canvas West Yellowstone and relax into the night below the big sky of Montana on the edge of American history.
Nordic skiers know it for its hospitality during regional races. Naturalists and adventurers know it for its basecamp amenities while they explore the region. Everyone should know West Yellowstone for the opportunities it presents. MAY | JUNE 2022
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1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
Eugene Springfield
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Ontario
Bend Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
20 The Minders
48 Instinct
80
Fort Stevens State Park
24 Momentum River Expeditions
50 Breakside Brewery Beaverton
82
Cape Lookout
26 Chef Shack
50 Funky Fauna Artisan Ales
84
The Setting Inn
26 Verdant at Abbey Road Farm
50 Steeplejack
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42 Portland Art Museum
50 Van Henion Brewing Company
Central Oregon luxury resorts for Mothers Day
92
West Yellowstone, Montana
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Remember the last time your family visited the forest? It’s a place of wonder and imagination for the whole family—where stories come to life. And it’s closer than you think. Sounds like it’s time to plan your next visit. Make the forest part of your story today at a local park near you or find one at DiscoverTheForest.org.
Until Next Time Sunset paints the Mount Hood landscape as wildflowers bloom along Lost Creek at Paradise Park. photo by Ian Stout
Continue for Special Insert
FROM THE GREEN
A GOLFER’S GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
A
WRITTEN BY KEVIN GIFFIN
LOT HAS CHANGED in golf this season. For the moment, the ravishes of the pandemic seem to have abated, drawing back the curtain on the stunningly beautiful and challenging courses of the Pacific Northwest. Tiger Woods is back in the mix, and a new young phenom Scottie Scheffler won the Masters’ green jacket at age 25. What’s remained about the same is the devotion of the people who work to bring you the best experience on your golf outing. These are the starters, the caddies, the restaurant servers, the bartenders and the greenstenders. After a hard couple of years for all of these people, be sure to be courteous with your emotions and generous with your gratitude. If we can do only those things this year, we’ll stay out of the bunkers and in the good graces of the people who are looking out for us on the course.
OREGON ALPINE MEADOWS
ENTERPRISE, OREGON
Alpine Meadows is a small nine-hole course set in the big world of the Wallowas. Nearly encircled by the stunning peaks of the Wallowa Whitman National Forest, Alpine Meadows is played in a constant state of awe. Traveling to the remote area requires lodging at The Jennings Hotel, the Wallowa Lake Lodge or equivalent. Don’t miss the top-notch local breweries and Stein Distillery.
Learn more: www.golfalpine meadows.com
BAY POINT LANDING COOS BAY, OREGON
In Coos Bay, just 30 minutes north of Bandon, behold one of Oregon’s oldest golf clubs and one of its most beautiful courses. Bay Point Landing offers two courses–Coos Golf Club and Sunset Bay Golf Course–nearby and serves as a wonderful lodging community for Bandon Dunes courses to the south. The handsome modern cabins and Airstream suites feel like a cozy and extravagant getway. Likewise, any of these courses will also feel different than typical inland links you’ve played before. Bay Point Landing will take you out of your travel rut with new ways to experience the Oregon Coast and its stunning golf courses.
Learn more: www.baypoint landing.com
CHEHALEM GLENN NEWBERG, OREGON
In wine country, it’s all about the terroir. At Chehalem Glenn Golf Course in the heart of the northern Willamette Valley wine country, the terroir is challenging for any level golfer. Steep hills, feisty bunkers and lovely greens define this course. The Chehalem Mountain AVA is also home to the soil that produces wines such as Elk Cove, ArborBrook, Anne Amie and Ponzi. Go straight for the pin-ot. Salish Cliffs Golf Club (photo: Brian Oar/Salish Cliffs Golf Club) Cover: Chehalem Glenn (photo: Chehalem Glenn)
Learn more: www.chehalemglenn.com
2022 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 3
FROM THE GREEN
EAGLE CREST RESORT
St. Andrews without the rain. The fairways run fast, and your errant shot slows only in the high fescue, if at all. The Row, one of the course’s restaurants, serves Scotch eggs, too. Tetherow is international travel made local.
REDMOND, OREGON
Eagle Crest Resort lies nicely in Central Oregon’s banana belt in the high desert of Redmond, Its three courses include two 18-hole championship par 72 courses and an 18-hole executive course–all surrounded by the beautiful Cascade Range. Niblick & Greene’s in the Clocktower Building has a full-service bar and Oregon craft beers galore. Aerie Cafe in The Lodge in great for breakfast and grab-and-go items. The casual Silverleaf Cafe serves pizza, tacos and salads alongside a full bar and live music. Check in at The Lodge for a weekend of luxurious linens in the high desert. There are miles of trails to walk to unwind or as a golf substitute and a full service spa for all of the things that need attention.
Learn more: www.eagle-crest.com
GLAZE MEADOW AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH SISTERS, OREGON
The dark beauty that is Black Butte overlooks the iconic Black Butte Ranch Glaze Meadow course, in a placid setting in the Deschutes National Forest. Designed by architect John Fought, Glaze Meadow has elevated greens and views of Mount Washington and North Sister in the Cascade Range. This resort is perfect for a family adventure, with horse stables, hiking, tennis courts, restaurants and a full spa for pampering.
Learn more: www.blackbutte ranch.com/golf
INDIAN CREEK GOLF COURSE
HOOD RIVER, OREGON
The majestic snow-covered Mount Hood looms large over Indian Creek Golf Course, providing stark relief from the greens and water blues below. Set in the Fruit Loop region of the Hood River area, the bounty of this fertile land is on display everywhere—from the apple and pear orchards to the countless
Learn more: www.tetherow.com
WILDHORSE RESORT GOLF COURSE PENDLETON, OREGON
Wildhorse Resort Golf Course (photo: Wildhorse Resort & Casino)
vineyards and farm-to-table restaurants. The nineteenth hole here offers more than its peers.
Learn more: www.indiancreek golf.com
OLD MACDONALD BANDON, OREGON
Perhaps the most glorious of all courses is Bandon Dunes’ Old Macdonald, set as it is on western dunes and Scottish gorse and rolling above the Pacific Ocean. Designed by Tom Doak and Jim Urbina, the course puts you in the ocean air and on another planet. This is just one of four other-wordly beautiful courses at the resort.
Learn more: www.bandondunes golf.com
SALISHAN GOLF LINKS
GLENEDEN BEACH, OREGON
Oregon golf legend Peter Jacobsen had his hands on the 2004 makeover of the Salishan course on the Oregon Coast, but not the menu at Attic Bar & Lounge. Recount the best and worst of your play with signature cocktails such as the western meadows, a citrus vodka-based drink, or a Salishan sour, a shaken bourbon, lemon, pinot noir and orange bitters concoction. Stay close to the ocean
4 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2022
with seafood green curry (clams, halibut, green curry and brown rice) and seared halibut with basil pesto, brown rice and a citrus salad with lemon herb dressing.
Learn more: www.salishan.com
SILVIES VALLEY RANCH SILVIES, OREGON
More from the high desert, the new Silvies Valley Ranch brings together traditional golf with traditional ruminants—goats. While it amassed an impressive chest of medals from national golf publications in its opening year 2018, Silvies is becoming best known for its well-mannered American Range goat caddies. These friendly creatures carry your bag and work for peanuts—literally. South of John Day in Eastern Oregon, Silvies is a chance to get away and enjoy the resort, spa and shooting range.
Learn more: www.silvies.us
TETHEROW
BEND, OREGON
This course gets you into a high desert climate that puts you closer to a cactus-less Southwest feel. Tetherow in Bend is a startling incarnation of Scottish links. Designed by Scotsman David McLay Kidd, Tetherow feels like
You’ve just come off eighteen holes at the Wildhorse resort course, one of Golf Digest’s top casino courses, and off in the distance to the east are the comely Blue Mountains. Nearby is the reward for drives that held straight, shots that went un-duffed and putts predictably sunk. The Wildhorse Clubhouse Bar & Grill is the reward. Unwind with an Oregon huckleberry jalapeño margarita or the “mother of pearl,” the official cocktail of the Masters. Start with a Wildhorse cobb, adorned in slow-roasted pork, crispy fried avocado, egg, shredded cheddar, more veggies and ranch dressing. Because this is Pendleton, someone in the group should cowboy up with the cowboy burger, a stack of beef, bacon, an onion ring, cheese and a smothering barbecue sauce.
Learn more: www.wildhorse resort.com/resort/golf
WASHINGTON GAMBLE SANDS
BREWSTER, WASHINGTON
Along the northern reaches of the Lake Chelan wine growing region, Gamble Sands in Brewster, Washington is another good place to travel and taste. Hit the links with another masterpiece from Scottish course designer, David McLay Kidd. Long before the course was built, winemakers coveted the soil in the region for themselves, making it one of the top up-and-coming wine regions in the state.
Learn more: www.gamblesands.com
There is a place
866-242-5532
BlackButteRanch.com
FROM THE GREEN
PALOUSE RIDGE GOLF CLUB
PULLMAN, WASHINGTON
Prospector Golf Course (photo: Greg Sweney Productions)
THE HOME COURSE DUPONT, WASHINGTON
Located on a nice piece of real estate between Olympia and Tacoma on the Nisqually Reach in DuPont, The Home Course has earned the #2 ranking for best public courses in Washington.
Some research shows that Hudson Bay Company traders may have laid out a six-hole course here in 1830s, making it the first known golf course in the Pacific Northwest.
Learn more: www.thehome course.com
6 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2022
The soft greens and browns of Palouse Ridge Golf Course in Pullman, Washington, are calming factors as you watch your ball run endlessly on the links-style course. A beautiful eighteen-hole championship course, Palouse Ridge is Washington State University’s home course. WSU alums who haven’t been back since it was completed in 2008, alumni association discounts await you.
Learn more: www.palouseridge.com
PROSPECTOR GOLF COURSE
CLE ELUM, WASHINGTON
Prospector Course at Suncadia was designed by Arnold Palmer and nature. It feels like a small and majestic clearing in the woods, a glade on the western slopes of the North Cascades.
The tenth hole brings it all to the fore, ahem, with stunning views from the tee box above the treeline and a hole that finishes 100 feet below.
Learn more: www.destination hotels.com/suncadia-resort
THE RESORT AT PORT LUDLOW
PORT LUDLOW, WASHINGTON
Set overlooking the marina on the east coast of the Olympic Peninsula, the Resort at Port Ludlow is a Robert Muir Graves-designed homage to the beauty of the Pacific Northwest. Sightlines on this course include the Olympic and Cascade ranges, Hood Canal and Ludlow Bay. Stay at the Port Ludlow Inn, a 37-room venue inspired by New England coastal estates, but with fireplaces and jetted tubs in each room. At The Fireside restaurant, try the king salmon, the halibut or the flat iron au poivre. Its menu
celebrates local farms, ranches and cheesemakers.
Learn more: www.portludlow resort.com
SALISH CLIFFS AT LITTLE CREEK CASINO RESORT
SHELTON, WASHINGTON
Consistently ranked among the top casino resorts, Salish Cliffs on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula is a majestic gem in the woods. Owned by the Squaxin Island Tribe, the par 72 course is the world’s first Salmon-safe certified golf course, highlighting the tribe’s commitment to protecting native habitat, managing water runoff, reducing pesticides, and advancing environmental practices.Bentgrass fairways and ryegrass rough feel private and secluded in the surrounding forest. Decorum calls for collared shirts, no denim and carts only. Stay and play at Little Creek Casino Resort, and take full advantage of 7 Inlets Spa packages, too. The indoor saltwater pool and hot tub are two more ways to relax after a day on the championship course. Be sure to dine at the Squaxin Island Seafood Bar teeming with fresh regional seafood.
Learn more: www.little-creek.com
SNOQUALMIE RIDGE GOLF COURSE
SNOQUALMIE, WASHINGTON
This Jack Nicklaus Signature Design championship course is home to the Boeing Classic. The Golden Bear built this course around mountain views, dense stands of fir trees and an eagle sanctuary on the fourteenth hole. When the fairway and Douglas fir green meet the blue sky and cumulus cloud white, there may be no more beautiful forested setting than Snoqualmie Ridge Golf Course. If you’re making a weekend of it, Salish Lodge & Spa overlooking Snoqualmie Falls is your moment of zen.
Learn more: www.clubat snoqualmieridge.com
Stay & Play Package
WINE VALLEY GOLF CLUB WALLA WALLA, WASHINGTON
Just ten minutes west of the densely wine-cellared downtown Walla Walla is Wine Valley Golf Club. This beautiful eighteen-hole course with fairways as wide as the Eastern Washington skies provides the perfect gamesmanship before heading to town for wines from some of the world’s finest winemakers. Stay and Play packages are available at the historic Marcus Whitman Hotel, Hampton Inn and Courtyard Marriott in Walla Walla.
starting at
$329
THE RESORT AT
Learn more: www.winevalley golfclub.com
IDAHO COEUR D’ALENE RESORT COEUR D’ALENE, IDAHO
Coeur d’Alene Resort Course is a tale of two land masses. This beauty is set on the banks of Lake Coeur d’Alene and plays over it. The fourteenth hole is a massive floating island that operates on submarine cables, changing the length of the hole from 90 yards to 220 yards and anywhere in between. Golfers are ferried out for successful green landings. The failures are collected each year by divers.
Learn more: www.cdaresort.com/ play/golf
Come Play & Explore Port Ludlow • Boat-In & Play with complimentary shuttle available to and from the Marina (advanced reservation required) • Private lessons & clinics for all skill levels • 30+ miles of local hiking trails • Farm-to-table dining at The Fireside Restaurant • A perfect getaway, less than two hours from Seattle
PRIEST LAKE GOLF COURSE
PRIEST LAKE, IDAHO
In a sea of towering green conifers on the eastern edge of Northern Idaho’s Colville National Forest and the western bank of Priest Lake, Priest Lake Golf Course is an eighteen-hole championship course. If you’re staying at the adjacent Hill’s Resort across the lake, you can boat over and tie up to tee off.
Keystone Port Townsend
PORT LUDLOW Clinton
Kingston
Mukilteo
Edmonds
Learn more: www.plgolfcourse.com
www.PortLudlowResort.com/golf 2022 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 7
WHERE TO PLAY
MORE PLACES TO PLAY
OREGON ALPINE MEADOWS www.golfalpinemeadows.com Enterprise, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,072 $20-$47
CHEHALEM GLENN www.chehalemglenn.com Newberg, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,062 $29-$40
EAGLE CREST RESORT www.eagle-crest.com Redmond, Oregon Length from back tees: varies by course
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GLAZE MEADOW AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH www.blackbutteranch.com/golf Sisters, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,007 $47-$82
INDIAN CREEK GOLF COURSE www.indiancreekgolf.com Hood River, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,261 $35-$59
OAK KNOLL GOLF COURSE www.oakknollgolf.org Ashland, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,047 $20-$24
DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2022
OLD MACDONALD www.bandondunesgolf.com Bandon, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,944 $50-$335
Salishan Golf Links (photo: Salishan Coastal Lodge)
RUNNING Y RANCH RESORT www.runningy.com Klamath Falls, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,138 $55-$95
SALISHAN GOLF LINKS www.salishan.com Gleneden Beach, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,470 $39-$99
SILVIES VALLEY RANCH www.silvies.us Seneca, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,170 $75-$175
TETHEROW www.tetherow.com Bend, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,293 $50-$190 *Note: Course lengths are given in yards
Spacious and well-appointed guestrooms at The Lodge
Equestrian trails, hiking, biking, and seasonal activities
Extended stay vacation rentals
Seasonal outdoor pools, indoor pool and hot tub
Three onsite dining options
Only 18 miles from downtown Bend
Three golf courses and putting green
WHERE TO PLAY
WASHINGTON APPLE TREE RESORT www.appletreeresort.com Yakima, Washington Length from back tees: 6,961 $52-$79 Kalispel Golf and Country Club (photo: Kalispel Golf and Country Club)
STAY & PLAY CASINOS KALISPEL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB NORTHERN QUEST RESORT & CASINO www.kalispelgolf.com Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,663 Packages start at $149 (overnight plus one round of golf for two)
SALISH CLIFFS GOLF CLUB LITTLE CREEK CASINO RESORT www.little-creek.com Shelton, Washington Length from back tees: 7,269 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $75-$139
SWINOMISH GOLF LINKS SWINOMISH CASINO & LODGE www.swinomishcasinoandlodge.com Anacortes, Washington Length from back tees: 6,177 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $21-$38
BEAR MOUNTAIN RANCH www.bearmtgolf.com Chelan, Washington Length from back tees: 7,231 $50-$100
GAMBLE SANDS www.gamblesands.com Brewster, Washington Length from back tees: 7,169 $60-$95
THE GOLF CLUB AT NEWCASTLE www.newcastlegolf.com Newcastle, Washington (Bellevue) Length from back tees: 7,024 $80-$165
THE HOME COURSE www.thehomecourse.com DuPont, Washington Length from back tees: 7,424 $24-$49
INDIAN CANYON GOLF COURSE www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/indian-canyon Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,255 $20-$49
Apple Tree Resort (photo: Apple Tree Resort)
PALOUSE RIDGE GOLF CLUB
THE RESORT AT PORT LUDLOW
www.palouseridge.com Pullman, Washington Length from back tees: 7,308 $61-$109
www.portludlowresort.com Port Ludlow, Washington Length from back tees: 6,861 $30-$55
PROSPECTOR GOLF COURSE AT SUNCADIA
WINE VALLEY GOLF CLUB
www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort Cle Elum, Washington Length from back tees: 7,100 $64-$139
www.winevalleygolfclub.com Walla Walla, Washington Length from back tees: 7,600 $80-$155
WILDHORSE RESORT GOLF COURSE WILDHORSE RESORT & CASINO www.wildhorseresort.com/ resort/golf Pendleton, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,112 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $45-$55
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DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2022
IDAHO COEUR D’ALENE RESORT GOLF COURSE www.cdaresort.com/play/golf Coeur d’Alene, Idaho Length from back tees: 7,189 $79-$99
PRIEST LAKE GOLF COURSE www.plgolfcourse.com Priest Lake, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,200 $22-$56
TRAIL CREEK GOLF COURSE www.sunvalley.com Sun Valley, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,968 $85-$179 *Note: Course lengths are given in yards
GO FOR THE WIN! “One of America’s top casino golf courses.” - Golf Digest
TWO GOLF COURSES Play Wildhorse Resort Golf Course and the Golf Course at Birch Creek, just minutes away south of Pendleton.
VEGAS-STYLE GAMING
FINE DINING
Over 1,200 slots with all the latest reels and your favorite table games.
Eight restaurants on-site with a delicious array of food choices.
STAY & PLAY PACKAGES AVAILABLE CASINO • HOTEL • GOLF • RV • DINING • FUNPLEX 800.654.9453 • Pendleton, OR I-84 Exit 216 • wildhorseresort.com F Owned and operated by the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation.
04190.TT.04.22
