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THANK YOU FOR SHOWING US WHAT STRONG LOOKS LIKE. From health care workers on the front lines to teachers and students finding new ways to learn together online. From grocery clerks keeping the shelves stocked to bus drivers getting us safely where we need to go. And to everyone who is slowing the spread of coronavirus and saving lives by staying home. We are all essential. And we are stronger and safer when we all do our part. Learn more at saif.com.
RECOVERY FUND GRANTEE: BETHLEHEM INN
Meet Gwenn. Gwenn Wysling runs Bethlehem Inn, a nonprofit adapting to meet new challenges that come with COVID-19 while continuing to house and assist individuals and families experiencing homelessness. With a grant from the Oregon Community Recovery Fund, her organization has been able to stay open, keeping many people on the path to stability. One mother found safe shelter at Bethlehem Inn with her two children—and kept her job—after camping along the Deschutes river to escape an abusive home. When you donate to the Oregon Community Recovery Fund, you help Oregonians like this family by keeping important housing and food facilities, like Bethlehem Inn, open for assistance. We help make this happen. Read details about this and other stories of impact — and donate — at oregoncf.org/COVID.
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A Farmhouse, Reconfigured photography by Caitlin Murray/Built Photo This Hood River home had all the makings of the perfect family home—but it needed updating. Now, a one-and-a-half story addition provides a social hub, as well as great views of the East Hills. (pg. 30)
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FEATURES SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020 • volume 64
52
66
Tiny, but Mighty
Backcountry Artists of Grant County
Turn on any home and garden channel and you’re likely to see a show about tiny homes. In Bend, a developer worked to transform a foundering subdivision into a place where small cottages live large. written by Melissa Dalton
Eastern Oregon’s Grant County is more than sagebrush and open space. It’s filled with talented artists inspired by their landscape to create one-of-a-kind art. photography by Joni Kabana
58 The Tradition of Taste Ota Tofu in Portland has been making the traditional delicacy for more than 100 years, using handcrafted techniques to create a flavor that keeps restaurateurs and average Portlanders coming back for more. written by Rachel Pinsky
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Carly Diaz
The Okara Parfait from Tonari in Portland combines tofu, seasonal fruit, strawberry-rhubarb jam, and okara and pumpkin seed granola.
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020
DEPARTMENTS SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020 • volume 64
LIVE 16 NOTEBOOK
We have Oregon’s best on display in music, books and products, including a nextlevel lunch box and Oregon-scented candles.
20 FOOD + DRINK
Fall is for tacos, wine farms and fish sandwiches, and we’ve got all of those, plus wine country picnics around the state.
24 FARM TO TABLE
Flint corn is for more than decorating your table during Thanksgiving. Turn this niche crop into polenta and other corn delights.
30 HOME + DESIGN
Old homes get new life with loving renovations, from Hood River to a historic Portland house.
36 MIND + BODY
Littlewing Athletics in Bend—an all-female professional running team—has chosen to take the Olympics delay in stride.
42
38 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Shel Mae takes the nearly forgotten joy of paper maps and transforms these old things into something new and beautiful.
THINK 42 STARTUP
Wayfinding Academy in Portland reimagines what a college education could look like.
44 WHAT’S GOING UP
Eugene is getting a riverfront redevelopment that will provide the public with more access to the Willamette.
46 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
The Wood Identification and Screening Center at Oregon State University seeks to cut down on timber crime.
48 MY WORKSPACE
Portland’s Tricia Langman has designed textiles for big-name designers. And that’s just the beginning of her long resume.
50 GAME CHANGER
38
80 12 13 94 96
Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
When coronavirus hit our state, Oregon State University’s scientists stepped up to provide the TRACE program, helping public health officials understand how prevalent the virus is in communities.
EXPLORE 80 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Brimstone Boulders in Hood River is a climbing gym in an old church. Say no more.
82 ADVENTURE
Oregon’s old mining history has left empty buildings in abandoned communities around the state. Get spooky with a trip to one of Oregon’s ghost towns.
86 LODGING
Powell Butte’s Brasada Ranch offers a rustic feel with all the luxury you could dream of, plus pools, trails and fine dining.
88 TRIP PLANNER
Go beyond the campuses in Eugene and Corvallis, with outdoor adventure and sophisticated food and drink.
COVER
photo by Thomas J. Story (see Tiny, but Mighty, pg. 52)
92 NORTHWEST DESTINATION
Road trips are the way of the world right now, and the Selkirk Loop—particularly a side trip to Little Pend Oreille—is a soothing balm for the long-quarantined soul.
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CONTRIBUTORS
CARLY DIAZ Photographer The Tradition of Taste
RACHEL PINSKY Writer The Tradition of Taste
Over the last year, I’ve done a number of photo shoots in food production facilities, and I really enjoy capturing the process from beginning to end. The day I went to photograph Ota Tofu was a highlight. The atmosphere was really relaxed and everyone was focused on the task at hand. It didn’t feel like a high-pressure environment, but people moved efficiently and I worked to capture their precision and efforts with my camera. (pg. 58)
Last fall, I passed Ota Tofu several days a week as I picked up my son from school. The modest building on Stark Street didn’t fit with the buildings around it. I learned that the family who owned the company had been making tofu using traditional Japanese methods for more than a hundred years. When I found out Salt & Straw, Nodoguro and Nong’s Khao Man Gai used Ota products, I wanted to learn more. (pg. 58)
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JONI KABANA Photographer Backcountry Artists of Grant County I knew there was something very different about Grant County the moment I first met a few of the local inhabitants. No matter what political leaning, religious affiliation or socio-economic status, one common trait seemed to stand out in the character of all people who live there: triedand-true creative grit. I had mighty trouble profiling just five of these artists. Believe me, there are many, many more. (pg. 66)
SHEILA G. MILLER Writer Trip Planner As the managing editor of 1859, I am lucky enough to get paid to travel around Oregon and learn more about this great state. When I realized I had never spent more than short stints in Eugene and Corvallis—places many of my friends called home during their formative college years—I knew that was something I needed to rectify. I found all kinds of ways to stay socially distant while enjoying these great cities. I’ll be back. (pg. 88)
EDITOR Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE DIRECTOR Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
OFFICE MANAGER
DIRECTOR OF SALES
SALES ASSISTANT
HOMEGROWN CHEF
BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Aaron Opsahl Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Elijah Aikens Thor Erickson Jeremy Storton
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Melissa Dalton, Nick Foot, Grace Gunn, Lauren Houston, Sophia McDonald, Rachel Pinsky, Jen Stevenson
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Blackstone Edge Studios, Kevin Clark, Carly Diaz, Charlotte Dupont, Joni Kabana, Caitlin Murray, Thomas J. Story
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Colin Andersen, Drew Bardana
Headquarters
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835 NW Bond St. Suite 200 Bend, Oregon 97703
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SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020
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FROM THE EDITOR DURING A PANDEMIC, time and the things that happen in time become so much more precious. Family, work and play earn a higher value as reports of more sickness and death roll on in a hopeless ticker. Those who have passion for their work also seem to have the clarity of focus to put more into it. In this issue, we profile people whose passion for their work is inspiring for all of us. These are stories of motivation, of getting up after being knocked down again, of having the nerve to keep creating art for which there may never be a buyer, of getting up before the sun to carry on a 100-year-old tradition. They take the forms of a textile designer, Tricia Langman, who created a new process for dyeing wool when Pendleton called her to design its batik blanket collection (My Workspace, page 48). Five-time NCAA champion Lauren Fleshman has seen her own hopes rise and fall as a former professional runner. Now the coach of seven Olympic hopefuls under the club name Littlewing Athletics in Bend, she has to draw on those feelings to keep her runners motivated to keep pursuing their Olympic dreams for an event that seems farther and farther away. (Mind+Body, page 36)
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Five artists of Eastern Oregon’s Grant County regularly confront huge acts of faith and resilience. Beginning with a blank canvas or block of wood, they envision, then strategize and then create. Their pursuits rely on being able to block out the rest of the world while creating an escape from the world for others (Backcountry Artists, page 66). What seems like a straight-forward proposition—tofu—is a high art form at Ota Tofu in Portland. For 100 years, the craftspeople at Ota Tofu have been making handmade tofu with traditional Japanese methods. Two families, linked by the Japanese Heritage Society, have owned and operated Ota, surviving Japanese internment in the United States to continue the tradition (The Tradition of Taste, page 58). Finally, catch up with the latest passion project in tiny cottage living as part of this Home + Design issue. Many of these modern cabins are no more than 600 square feet while sharing common outdoor space with others in their pods. It’s hopeful to see the housing market and regulations change to allow for better and smaller living (Tiny, but Mighty page 52). Cheers!
1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon
HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll win 1859 gear and a chance to be published here. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/postcard photo by Angela Richmond Hiking in the Eagle Cap Wilderness.
1859 ADVENTURE MAIL More Oregon, delivered to your inbox! Sign up for 1859’s Adventure Mail newsletter and get access to the latest trip ideas, contests, recipes and more. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/live/ subscribe-to-oregon-adventure-mail
DANCING THROUGH PAIN
Jessica Smith
Earlier this year, Statehood Media produced Healing, a collaborative project that brought together Ashland cellist Daniel Sperry and Oregon Ballet Theatre principal dancer Xuan Cheng. We started to find a way to express hope during the anxiety surrounding the pandemic. We harnessed the talents of these amazing artists to create something beautiful and healing in a time where we need both. Find the project on our Facebook at www.facebook.com/1859Oregon
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020
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NOTEBOOK 16 FOOD + DRINK 20 FARM TO TABLE 24 HOME + DESIGN 30 MIND + BODY 36
pg. 30 Loving restorations of historic homes bring new life to old properties.
Blackstone Edge Studios
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 38
Discover
True Health Community is strength. For more than 160 years, we’ve raised the standard of care and invested in our shared future because the healthier each of us are, the healthier we all are.
See our impact on the community at ProvidenceTrueHealth.com/print or call (833) 978-0111 (TTY: 711) 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Pacific Time, Monday through Friday.
notebook
Tidbits + To-dos
Hydro Flask lunch box
Mt. Angel Oktoberfest Like virtually everything fun, Mt. Angel’s annual Oktoberfest is changing to comply with requirements that Oregon not hold any large-scale events through at least September. This year’s event will not feature the packed beer halls of years past, but the festival is trying to make it accessible without crowds, and to provide virtual entertainment and beer for purchase.
By now, you know Hydro Flask. Everyone does! But did you know the Bend-based company sells more than the famous insulated water bottles? It also has a full line of food transport products, including lunch boxes, food flasks and insulated totes. Someday, when going to the office feels less fraught, you’ll want to show up with the best lunch accessory.
www.oktoberfest.org
www.hydroflask.com
Lan Su Chinese Garden
CAmL ark yo END ur AR
Outdoor gardens While the weather holds and the return to normal is still uncertain, use your time to visit Oregon’s beautiful gardens and other outdoor attractions. Lan Su Chinese Garden in Portland reopened—you must get tickets ahead of time and there is a one-way route. The Portland Japanese Garden has a timed entry program and has rerouted some paths. Get some culture, and some peace. www.lansugarden.org www.japanesegarden.org
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notebook
Pinot Girl For all the wine lovers, pick up a copy of Anna Maria Ponzi’s memoir, Pinot Girl. The book, published in May, follows Ponzi’s life with her parents, Dick and Nancy, who were among the first to see Oregon for what it was—a perfect spot to grow pinot. You’ll get the inside scoop on life among grape vines and the challenges of making Oregon’s wine country what it is today. www.powells.com
Gold Coin donations Willamette Valley Vineyards is giving back, and helping you feel like you’ve won the lottery. Two hundred gold coins have been hidden inside the capsule above the cork of its wine bottles, and are in stores around Oregon and Washington. If you find a gold coin, you’ll be able to direct a donation of $50 to the charity of your choice, and Willamette Valley Vineyards will also donate $50 to your local food bank. The program ends on New Year’s Eve, so crack those bottles. www.wvv.com
Bridge Nine Candle Co. It’s been a stressful year. Find comfort in your home with a highly scented soy candle from Bridge Nine Candle Co. You’ll find the iconic St. Johns Bridge on the packaging, and you’ll smell the scent of Oregon inside—Cascade Forest, High Desert, Portland Mist and Pacific Sea Salt are a few of the candles you can grab. www.bridgeninecandleco.com
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020
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notebook Maria Maita-Keppeler fronts Portland’s MAITA.
Musician
On the Cusp
MAITA’s debut is a reminder of all that’s good in Portland’s music scene written by Sheila G. Miller
Listen on Spotify
IT’S PROBABLY a good sign when the man who started the label Kill Rock Stars hears your music and decides to get back in the music game. MAITA, led by Maria Maita-Keppeler, signed with Slim Moon and KRS in 2019, bringing Moon back to the label after a thirteen-year hiatus. “It was definitely cool to get signed. I don’t think it was something we were expecting at all,” Maita-Keppeler said. “One of the things we really value about them is that they truly do value the music first. … We never talked about numbers. It was really just about the music, and that’s something we really wanted to prioritize, that our journey has to be about the music.” The music itself is great—reminiscent of the ’90s Portland indie rock scene, with focused writing and Maita-Keppeler’s standout voice. MAITA is filled out with Matthew Zeltzer on guitar, Nevada Sowie on bass and Cooper Trail on drums. Zeltzer and MaitaKeppeler have performed together for six years, and produced their first album, Best Wishes, with Bart Budwig at the OK Theatre in Enterprise, then did touchup work on it at Room 13 in Portland. Making the album in Enterprise was like coming home for MAITA. “We’ve had an affinity for Enterprise because we know Bart and we’d go out there and play shows at Terminal Gravity or Range Rider when we were on tour,” Zeltzer said. “There’s just something natural about it. I guess there’s no distractions there. It’s hard when you’re recording in Portland because it’s easy to go see friends. At the end of the day in Enterprise, you’re six hours from home. So there’s recording, and then you get outside and stare at the mountains, and it really refreshes you.” 18
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When MAITA recorded the album together on the theater’s stage, the theater hadn’t been soundproofed, giving the album a live feeling (Zeltzer pointed out there was a door open to the street in Enterprise—possible in a town with little traffic). “Once we were back in Portland, our work in Enterprise informed how we finished the album,” he said. “A lot of recording now is so sterile. You can make a thousand decisions at any point in time. If you do something not perfect from the start, it takes a bit of the anxiety of limitless options away.” The band was preparing for a tour and an album release show, all canceled because of coronavirus. MAITA did a virtual release party instead. Now, the focus for them is standing with Portland against systemic racism. “If we don’t get to tour for a year, but there’s actual real change with systemic racism in the United States, it’s absolutely worth it,” Zeltzer said. Maita-Keppeler echoed his sentiments. “There’s so much promotion involved with music, and it’s just hard to feel like you want to take up more space right now when there are so many other things that need to be amplified over an album release,” she said. “The demand for art is always going to be there, and the desire to create will always be there. What needs to happen is that creative output has to be met with the social justice causes. That’s where the power of the artist lies. You can’t like an artist without also hearing what they have to say about the issues that are important.”
Chan Christiansen
notebook
Bibliophile
On the Storm Beat Memoir highlights the joys—and pain— of covering the coast as a news reporter interview by Sheila G. Miller
FOR YEARS, Lori Tobias was The Oregonian’s correspondent for the Oregon Coast—the entire Oregon Coast. During that time, she traversed Highway 101 from Astoria to the California border covering boats capsizing, drownings and the occasional murder. On a good day, you might find her at the Oregon Coast Aquarium meeting Lea, the painting sea lion. In her new memoir, Storm Beat, Tobias shares the backstory on her reporting life, beautifully interspersing the stories she wrote with the stories she lived. You write that you knew you wanted to write a book—was this the one you thought you’d write? I have always kept journals, and I kept all my reporter’s notebooks. When I was laid off in 2013, it was a huge blow and I didn’t take it well. I worked so hard, and I understand now that times were changing, but this became my therapy. For one year, I sat down with every one of my journals and I indexed all the stories. I kept yellow legal pads about which stories would work—I set a standard that I would only include a story if I could add to it something that a reader hadn’t already learned from reading The Oregonian. Writing this book was cathartic. It helped me make sense and put my career in context. Newspaper reporters see a lot of darkness in their day-to-day lives, and it’s easy to get jaded. You seem to have been able to avoid becoming too hardened. How? To tell you the truth, I’m from back East, and I’ve always had a hard shell.
Lori Tobias has turned her years as a journalist on the coast into a book.
I learned that’s a defense, I’m not a hard person at all. But when you’re on deadline and you have a story to write, and people to interview, sometimes you have to get the pictures yourself, you have to make sense of the story and get it right. That is a buffer. But then the deadlines come and go and my poor husband— sometimes we’d be sitting and watching television and all of a sudden I’d start bawling. Let’s face it: most news stories aren’t happy. That’s the nature of the business. In Storm Beat, you write a lot about the tenuous life of being a reporter at a major daily—and the slow death of daily newspapers. Why did you decide to include that? Because it really formed the stories, and impacted me emotionally. I don’t think there’s ever been a time in my career that the shadow of being laid off wasn’t hanging over me. So when I went through my journals to find these stories, there was all this stuff about layoffs and buyouts. It was always hanging over you. It was
constant, and that really shapes how you work. I had this idea that if I could just run hard enough and get enough A1 covers and metro covers, I would be OK. I know that being laid off was out of my hands, and everyone says it’s not personal. But it always feels personal, I felt like I failed. What’s next? This is going to sound really nuts, but I’ve started going through all of my journals since 1986. It’s an arduous task. I’ve been married since I was 23—we were very young. It’s a great marriage but when you’re young you do stupid stuff. I read these journals, and I get mad at my husband all over again. I’ve always wanted to write a book about tramping—my husband was a lineman and we followed the big jobs, and followed storm work for fifteen years. I wanted to write about what it’s like to travel around like that, to be married to a lineman. But what I’m finding is that while that is part of this book, it’s actually a journey of how I became a writer. So this book is about being married to a tramp lineman, and figuring out who I am.
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food + drink
Beerlandia
GLASSWARE TIPS FROM OUR FRIENDS IN BEERLANDIA
Glass Half Full
RANDY SCORBY
Level 4 Master BJCP Beer, Mead & Cider Judge “If I had to choose, my one and only beer glass would be a goblet-style glass. I find that they focus the aroma more and allow it to release better, and also allow a larger surface to form a head. The stem gives you an option for holding the glass without warming the beer (unless that is desired for higher ABV beers).”
written by Jeremy Storton illustrations by Allison Bye ASK ANY BREWER what their favorite beer is and they’ll likely dodge the question with an eye roll and respond with, “The beer in my hand.” It’s not a great question, because a proper answer requires a lengthy conversation. A better question—one that you’ll likely get a real answer to— is, what is the best glass to drink a beer from? Most glass standards are based on tradition, an old way to dress up your beer. Nonetheless, a lot of research has gone into creating the perfect glass. The goal is to enhance the aroma, the aesthetic, the drinkability, the grip and the overall experience of drinking a beer. A great glass is a way to respect the craft and stack the deck in your favor for a better sensory experience. There are no right or wrong glasses, only better and worse. No one wants to drink a $40 bottle of aged beer from a red party cup. Then again, no one needs a $40 glass unless it promises to end racism. Ultimately, the best glass shows off the beer, fits well in your hand and disperses the aroma so well that you’re compelled to take another sip. Just pick a glass you enjoy drinking from and stick with it. My favorite glass is a stemmed, tall tulip. Imagine a white wine glass—it’s easy to swirl and shoots the aroma out like a jet engine. I can warm the glass in my hand for darker beers, or grip the stem for lighter ones that like the cold. The tulip, however, has a rim that flares outward, supporting the foam and launching the liquid perfectly onto my palate. Hand me a tulip glass, and I’ll find a way to make any beer work.
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of The Teardrop Lounge & The Commissary, Portland
The Cobbler
PAUL ARNEY
Founder of Ale Apothecary “My glassware of choice, if I could only have one for the remainder of my life and never ever ever have another? It would be an 8-ounce mason jar without the lid. I drink a lot of different beers and the small size of the mason jar allows for me to pour high-ABV in appropriate serving size amounts without feeling the beer is going to get lost in a too-large glass.”
THOMAS H. SHELLHAMMER, PH.D.
Nor’Wester Professor of Fermentation Science & OSU Department of Food Science and Technology “If I had only one glass I could use for all beer, I suppose I would select the Kolsch Stange [like a 6-ounce chimney glass]. At only 200 milliliters, you have good portion control and because of its diminutive size the beer is nearly always cold. The narrow aspect helps with foam persistence. The presentation of stout in the tall cylinder would be beautiful. The foam and aroma of a lambic should work well too, I suspect, in this glass.”
BEN EDMUNDS
Brewmaster at Breakside Brewing “I’m a fan of the Willy Becker. It’s the most versatile pint glass out there. Great for hoppy beers and lagers.”
• 2 ounces of spirit of your choice • 3 orange half-moon slices
• ½ ounce of a 2:1 sweetener like simple syrup or agave syrup • 2 lemon wheels
Combine all ingredients in a tin and shake with ice. Strain over crushed ice. Garnish garishly with in-season fruits. The Commissary makes batched mixers and syrups that go well in this cocktail (www.commissarypdx.com).
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2020
HOOD RIVER
MENS • WOMENS • CLOTHING • SHOES • TEXTILES
food + drink
CRAVINGS: Marielle Dezurick
TACOS
BIRRIERIA LA PLAZA If birria isn’t already part of your comfort food repertoire, it’s time to visit Oracio Hernandez’s bright red Southeast Portland food truck, where the menu’s star player is the birria, a spicy, slowsimmered blend of beef and chiles made from a family recipe passed to Hernandez by his mother, Doña Sofia, who grew up cooking alongside her mother in Jalisco. Whether you opt for the classic birria tacos piled with cilantro and onion or the quesadilla, everything must be generously dipped into a cup of the rich, ruddy, deeply seasoned birria broth. 600 SE 146TH AVE PORTLAND www.tacoslaplaza.com
PANDITA
Hiyu’s tasting menu is ever-changing, depending on the farm and the wine.
Gastronomy
Hiyu Wine Farm
398 E 11TH AVE EUGENE www.panditarestaurant.com
written by Jen Stevenson AS THE TEMPERATURES tumble and summer dreams turn to autumn drips, keep that inevitable Pacific Northwest cabin fever at bay as long as possible, with a fall foray to Hiyu Wine Farm, where you can social distance the best possible way—with magnificent Hood River Valley views, friendly four-legged natives, and a bottle of pinot. The 30-acre farm and winery, owned and run by winemaker and master sommelier Nate Ready and his partner, artist China Tresemer, is an ethereal tapestry of dense forest, vibrant green grasslands teeming with native flora and fauna, and naturally farmed vineyards home to more than 100 unique grape varietals, which Ready uses to craft his acclaimed biodynamic wines. In the restaurant kitchen, chef Jason Barwikowski pulls from both decades of experience in Portland’s best kitchens and the property’s half-acre garden to create a seasonally shifting tasting menu of farm and region-inspired wine-friendly bites, like nasturtiumgarnished wedges of grilled cabbage with duck egg, and Columbia River smelt escabeche with pea shoots and whipped sheep’s milk cheese. To immerse yourself in the wine farm life, if only for an afternoon, book a tour around the property, complete with cameos from the resident pigs, cows, chicken, ducks and geese, and then, since it would be a shame to leave without a leisurely wine tasting, reserve a post-tour spot at one of the tavern tables, where you’ll sample six of Ready’s wondrous wines paired with your choice of either light drinking snacks or a heartier farm lunch. www.hiyuwinefarm.com
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Crispy taco devotees will delight in this friendly downtown Eugene taqueria’s tasty pork carnitas, spicy adobo chicken, or smashed black bean tacos, served with fresh homemade salsas, crumbly queso fresco and that oh-so-satisfying crunch only a crispy golden fried corn tortilla can offer. Soft versions are available upon request. Consider stocking up on gift cards before you leave, if only for the endearing Grateful Dead panda bear logo, a perfect autumn equinox gift for your favorite Deadhead.
2020
PURA VIDA COCINA Spicing up McMinnville’s Main Street with guava chipotle barbecue spare ribs, carrot mole enchiladas, and shrimp-stuffed chile rellenos, Ricardo and Margarita Antunez’s popular Latin American restaurant doesn’t slouch in the taco department, either. Try the slow-braised beef barbacoa, crispy fried pork belly or grilled wild Alaskan cod, piled with cabbage, cotija cheese and chipotle aioli on hand-pressed tortillas, and best paired with a pint of whatever’s on tap from the Antunez’s Salem brewery, Xicha Brewing Company. Hot churros dipped in melted chocolate are on the dessert menu, next to the orange-infused flan. 313 NE 3RD ST MCMINNVILLE www.puravidamac.com
LA TAPATIA For nearly thirty years, Southern Oregon taco lovers in the know have piled into this unassuming family-owned Phoenix taqueria for plates of double-wrapped chicken, chorizo, carnitas, al pastor and chicharrón tacos, all of which will set you back $1.50 or less (for carne asada, birria, lengua or tripe, expect to break the $2 budget barrier). On the way out, pick up crispy chicharrones, shrimp ceviche and a dozen or two of the homemade corn tortillas to go, plus grillables from the butcher case. 125 S MAIN ST PHOENIX www.lataprestaurant.com
food + drink BEST PLACES FOR
A WINE COUNTRY PICNIC Merely making the picturesque drive out to the Willamette Valley wine country is a treat in homebound times. But consider upping the ante by booking The Outlook at Knudsen Vineyards tasting room’s new Pioneering Footsteps Hike, a tour of the vineyard’s premium blocks, led by co-owner Page Knudsen Cowles and followed by a picnic lunch and wine flight. Or, if you’d rather just admire the vineyard vistas, reserve the Marketplace Picnic Pack—your choice of wine pour paired with a cheese and charcuterie picnic box. 9419 NE WORDEN HILL RD DUNDEE www.knudsenvineyards.com
BRIGADOON WINE COMPANY A half hour from the heart of downtown Eugene, deep in the scenic South Willamette Valley wine country, enlist your maps app’s assistance in stumbling upon the Shown family’s lushly landscaped, quite possibly enchanted Brigadoon Wine Company. Uncork a bottle of winemaker Matt Shown’s deliciously dry riesling, find just the right spot in the grassy terraced garden to spread a blanket, unpack your picnic or enjoy one of the winery’s locally sourced artisan cheese and charcuterie boards and stay a while.
Natalie Gildersleeve
KNUDSEN VINEYARDS
Flying Fish Company’s new spot on Burnside makes sustainable seafood shine.
Dining
Flying Fish written by Jen Stevenson
Bumping down the gravel road to this hidden Hood River Valley gem, don’t fret that a wrong turn’s been made. Just keep plowing on until you spy an exquisite little garden oasis of a tasting room, gently tucked into the surrounding vineyards and cherry and pear orchards. Inside, give the friendly farm dog a good scratch before tasting through owner/winemaker Brian McCormick’s lineup of wild-fermented wares. Buy a bottle of the juicy, full-bodied Primitivo, unpack your Ploughman’s lunch and soak in those last precious Indian summer sunbeams.
FANS WHO’VE FAITHFULLY followed Flying Fish Company’s progression—from bemuraled seafood shack on the edge of a Hawthorne Boulevard parking lot to cozy counter inside posh Providore Fine Foods—were delighted to welcome owner and chief fishmonger Lyf Gildersleeve’s latest and greatest incarnation to the Kerns neighborhood this year. A bright blue-trimmed, leafy bamboo-lined beacon right on Burnside, just east of 28th Avenue’s popular restaurant and retail corridor, Gildersleeve’s cheery new market and full-service restaurant serve up sustainably sourced seafood, meat and artisan goods, friendly chatter and a roomy patio on which to savor wild Alaskan cod fish tacos or cucumber and chili-laced shrimp, calamari and king salmon ceviche on a balmy autumn evening. Crowd-shy shoppers can order online and have fresh Oregon rockfish fillets, sushi-grade ahi tuna, housemade salmon cakes, Dungeness crab meat, live oysters (shucked or unshucked, choose your level of desired exertion), pasture-raised rib-eyes and local farm eggs delivered to your doorstep. Or, if you’ve been craving fish and chips in the worst way but don’t feel like infusing your kitchen with eau de fried fish, call in an order of fried wild Alaskan cod with crispy golden jojos, citrus-kale slaw and housemade tartar sauce for pickup. If you’re feeling more turf than surf, try “The Company Burger”—a Painted Hills beef patty stacked with Rogue Creamery’s Smokey Blue cheese, thick-cut bacon, red onions, tomato jam and aioli, on a Grand Central Bakery ciabatta bun. You’re on your own for dessert, but if a few scoops of rich, creamy coconut lemon saffron sorbet seem like an appropriate encore to a cilantro-ginger spiced wild Oregon tuna poke bowl, there’s a Fifty Licks ice cream shop an agate’s throw away.
8450 HWY 30 MOSIER www.idiotsgrace.com
3004 E BURNSIDE ST. PORTLAND www.flyingfishportland.com
25167 FERGUSON RD JUNCTION CITY www.brigadoonwineco.com
RED LILY VINEYARDS Few Oregon destinations are as unforgettable in the autumn (or ever) as Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley, a vividly beautiful, blissfully laidback stretch of rolling hills and forest stretching between Grants Pass and charming small town Jacksonville. While choosing a favorite fall sipping spot is nearly impossible, Red Lily has a distinct advantage thanks to its unbeatable perch along the Applegate River. Check in with the rustic-chic tasting room’s affable staff, then transport your tasting flight—cleverly portioned in a portable test tube rack—down to the beach and enjoy a languid tempranillo-toasted picnic, toes in the river. 11777 HWY 238 JACKSONVILLE www.redlilyvineyards.com
IDIOT’S GRACE
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farm to table
Farm to Table
An Eye For the Ears
Flint corn is gaining in popularity in the Northwest, and we’re lucky for it written by Sophia McDonald IF ALL YOU DO with flint corn—those cobs with resplendent indigo, burgundy, burnt sienna and buttercup kernels that appear every fall—is pile it amidst pumpkins and gourds as a table decoration, you may be missing out. This colorful corn can make for great eating, not slathered in butter the way you would eat a piece of August sweet corn, but ground into grain for baked goods, tortillas and other delicious edibles. Anthony Boutard, who runs Ayers Creek Farm in Gaston with his wife, Carol, has long had an eye for these ears. Growing up in Massachusetts, his family raised sweet corn, the “essence of summer,” in their garden. Boutard initially planned to grow it on the farm, but quickly found it wasn’t a good fit. He was perusing a seed catalog one day and came across an entry for Roy’s Calais Flint corn. “Makes good cornbread,” it proclaimed, so he ordered 5 pounds. The corn grew well and, once it was ground into cornmeal, it also sold well. It earned a permanent spot at the farm. What, exactly, is flint corn? “Corn is classified by the grain’s density, determined by the proportion of protein in the kernel,” Boutard said. “Popcorn has the densest kernel, followed by flint, dent and flour corn. Across the density continuum, the corn can be milled.” How is that different from corn as we typically think of it? “Sweet corn has a mutation that slows or prevents the starches from forming, so instead of starch, the kernel is composed of simple sugars,” Boutard said. That makes it great for fresh eating, but not so great for drying and grinding. Grain corns have long been a staple crop in many cultures. People throughout the Americas traditionally soaked it in lime to make hominy or milled it to make tortillas and tamales. “The Italians grow popcorn types and mill them for making polenta,” he said. “White cornmeal made from popcorn types is preferred in Venice, where fish is an important part of the diet. In the north of Spain, Galicia, they grow a dark purple flour corn and use it in bread.” Boutard isn’t just growing corn, though. He and his team are making a concerted effort to breed varieties well-suited to their own farming methods and climate. The end result has been flint corn with better flavor and quality. He has a few types he’s particularly proud to sow every May and harvest in October. Amish Butter is a popcorn that makes white cornmeal ideal for polenta, mush and hominy. “Peace, No War was derived from a single odd ear in some blue corn we had experimented with but decided to drop,” 24 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
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Boutard said. “People reflexively ask for blue corn, but when it is milled it looks like concrete mix. That purple ear became an art project of sorts. We kept selecting for more densely pigmented ears and plants, until the resulting kernels appeared black.” It is delicious in bread, tamales and tortillas. Although he’s been farming since 1998, Boutard’s background is in forestry, a profession that gives him a good mindset for his current career. “Foresters are, by nature, patient and most appreciate mixed species complexes, as well all the other benefits that result from a well-managed forest,” he said. Much like forestry, seed breeding is a long game, one that requires drawing satisfaction from the slow evolution of living things. “With breeding, the farmer gains what (Nobel-winning
Photos: Anthony Boutard
farm to table
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Popcorn and flint corn both have hard, vitreous kernels. The flint ears are long and cylindrical, generally with eight rows of flattened kernels. The popcorn ear is shaped like a pine cone, and the kernels like pine nuts, so the Italian varieties are given names such as pignolo or pignoletto. Peace, No War is a purple ear that has intense pigment. Ice cream sandwiches made with Amish Butter cornmeal cookies and loganberry ice cream prepared by Sarah Minnick at Lovely’s Fifty Fifty in Portland.
scientist) Barbara McClintock described as ‘the sense of the organism,’” he said. “It demands an intimacy that is missing when you just open a web page or catalog in January. It reflects a longterm commitment to the crop rather than an endless flirtation with new varieties.” His love affair with the crop is helping plenty of other people swoon for flint corn, too. Corn represents a relatively small part of Oregon agriculture. Statewide, producers grew about 242,000 tons of sweet corn, 840,000 tons of silage corn (for animal feed) and 11.4 million bushels of grain corn (for animal feed or ethanol) in 2019. Interest in flint corn for humans is growing, though. “We do now have a considerable Hispanic population in the region who have an interest in growing and consuming the maize types they had
in Mexico,” said Jim Myers, a professor of vegetable breeding and genetics at Oregon State University. He’s aware of multiple people like Boutard who are working to adapt the food to Northwest growing conditions. Chefs are in on the game too, using flint cornmeal in dishes at their restaurants. Chefs Eric Bartle and Sara Kundelius at Abbey Road Farm B&B and Winery in Carlton like to top their flint corn and chèvre cake with sautéed sweet corn and chanterelle mushrooms or a fried egg and fresh salsa. If you prefer your cornmeal runny, use the recipe from Quaintrelle chef Ryley Eckersley for flint corn polenta. He serves it with a poached egg, porcini mushroom sauce and parmesan. It sounds equally good for dinner or a Sunday breakfast. SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020
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Oregon Recipes
Flint Corn Favorites
Local flint corn and chèvre cakes from Abbey Road Farm B&B and Winery.
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Flint Corn Polenta With Poached Egg, Porcini Conserva and Parmesan Quaintrelle / PORTLAND Ryley Eckersley SERVES 4 TO 6 FOR POLENTA • 2 cups chicken stock • 3 cups heavy cream • 1 large sprig of rosemary • 1 cup polenta • Salt to taste FOR PORCINI CONSERVA • 1 pound porcinis • 1 pound onion • 5 cloves garlic • 3 bay leaves • 1 sprig of thyme • 1 teaspoon ground pepper • ½ teaspoon red chili flakes
• 1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds • 1 teaspoon salt • 4 tablespoons brown sugar • 4 ounces sherry vinegar FOR POLENTA Combine chicken stock, heavy cream and rosemary and bring to a boil. Then add 1 cup polenta. Stir constantly, bring down and simmer until cooked and reduced. This will take 20-plus minutes, depending on age and storage. FOR PORCINI CONSERVA Combine porcinis, onion, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, pepper, chili
flakes and mustard seeds and cook low and slow, as if making caramelized onions. When the moisture from the mushrooms and onions is almost gone, add salt, brown sugar and vinegar. Cook down into a rich brown agrodolce sauce. Taste, then tweak acidity and sugar if necessary. TO SERVE Place polenta in a bowl, then top with a poached egg and some of the porcini conserva. Shave parmesan on top, and add fresh chopped chives or bacon if you like.
Local Flint Corn and Chèvre Cakes
Abbey Road Farm B&B and Winery / CARLTON MAKES 6 CAKES
Kathryn Elsesser Photography
• 3½ cups whole milk • 1 bay leaf • 2 teaspoons kosher salt, preferably Oregon sea salt from Jacobsen Sea Salt • 1 cup heirloom flint corn grits/polenta • 3 tablespoons Oregon chèvre cheese • Pinch of ground white pepper • ¼ cup flint corn flour or masa harina for coating cakes to pan fry • Corn or vegetable oil for pan frying In a 2-quart sauce pot, add the milk, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and the bay leaf and bring to a boil. Be careful, as boiling milk will expand quite quickly and want to overflow the pan. Lower the heat to medium and slowly whisk in the 1 cup of flint corn. Continue to whisk as the grits begin to thicken. Into a
smooth, porridge-like consistency. Remove whisk and switch to a small wooden spoon. Continue to constantly stir so as to not let the grits stick and burn to the bottom of the pan. Turn heat down to low heat and remove the bay leaf, continuing to stir and cook. The grits may need an additional ½ cup hot milk or water to keep from becoming too thick. Remember there will be soft cheese added, so this will also help to keep the grits in a soft and moldable state. After about 35-40 minutes of slow and consistent stirring, fold in the soft goat cheese and the remaining salt, as well as the white pepper. Stir until the cheese is completely incorporated into the grits. In a well oiled, standard bread loaf pan or three mini loaf pans (any kind of oiled baking pan or dish can also be used) spoon the hot grits into the pan or pans and smooth the top down with a spatula.
Cool, uncovered overnight (or until chilled and firm enough to slice) in the refrigerator. Remove the grits cake from the bread pan and slice into 1½ -inch slabs, as if cutting thick bread slices. If using mini loaf pans, slice in half lengthwise to get 2 cakes per pan. Preheat a skillet, preferably cast iron, to medium or medium-high heat. Lay out a thin layer of corn flour on a plate and lightly dredge the corn cake slices in the flour to coat the tops and bottoms of the cake. Add about ½ inch of corn or vegetable oil to the pan so as to pan fry and not deep fry the cakes. The cakes will begin to get a beautiful golden crust. Gently turn the cakes to the other corn flour-coated side and finish pan frying until golden. Remove the cake and pat dry on a paper towel to remove any oil or excess corn flour.
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Corn Salad SERVES 8 • 10 to 12 ears of corn • 1 red onion, chopped fine • 3 ripe nectarines, pitted and diced • ½ cup loosely packed cilantro, roughly chopped • 1 ½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar • 1 ½ tablespoons olive oil • Salt and pepper Shuck the corn and grill it over medium-high heat, turning occasionally, until the kernels are brown. Carefully cut the corn off the cob into a big bowl. Add the onion, nectarines and cilantro and toss. Drizzle with balsamic and oil and season with salt and pepper. Serve room temperature. Be sure to make enough for leftovers.
Corn Salad tastes like late summer in a bowl.
Homegrown Chef
A Seasonal Staple written by Thor Erickson photography by Charlotte Dupont CORN—IT’S IN EVERYTHING, from cereal, tortillas and syrup to paper plates, patio furniture and tires. In “The Omnivore’s Dilemma,” Michael Pollan estimates that one quarter of a grocery store’s 45,000 items contains this ingredient. The first (and best) use of corn is as food. This grain, originally grown by the Aztecs, Mayans and Incas, has sustained civilizations for millenia. In Mexico, the smell of elotes—grilled corn on the cob on a stick seasoned with crema, cotija cheese, chile powder and cilantro—wafts through the streets. Once you bite into it, you understand why locals wait in line for this sweet and savory treat. For northern Italians, it takes the form of polenta, a creamy porridge made from dried cornmeal, and an accompaniment to braised meat dishes such as osso bucco. I’m a purist, though, 28 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
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because I put my money on corn in its simplest form—on the cob with butter, salt and pepper. This perfect preparation can only taste better if you’ve just emerged from a dip in an Oregon lake. Many of my best summer memories are about food, and Willamette Valley sweet corn was always the star. My family dined outdoors in summer, with something delicious always coming off the grill, and served with salads made from our garden’s bounty. No matter what was being served, when sweet corn landed on the table, everyone quickly grabbed an ear. We had a stick of butter that was designated “corn butter” in a special dish perfect for rolling the corn in, and bathing it in the melting, salty goodness. Sweet corn season peaks during Oregon’s late summer, when it’s abundant at farm stands and farmers markets. While the yellow-or-white debate rages, with both sides claiming their choice is best, I’m less polarized and find both to be quite tasty. I am dictatorial, though, when it comes to supporting my stance on this. First: you MUST select great corn. It will already be sweet—so no need to add sugar. Next, fill a large pot about 3/4 full of water and bring to a boil. Gently place shucked ears of corn into boiling water, cover the pot, turn off the heat, and let it cook until tender, about ten minutes. Serve immediately with “corn butter,” kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper. I make few allowances for any other way to go, but here’s one of my favorites.
Just five miles from the heart of downtown Ashland, Irvine & Roberts offers some of the Rogue Valley’s most thrilling Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in a panoramic setting. Visit our tasting room, enjoy local small plates, and take in the view that changed our lives.
1614 Emigrant Creek Rd. Ashland, Oregon | 541.482.9383 irvinerobertsvineyards.com
Visit our website to make an appointment
Be my rock
717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.maloys.com
Maloy’s is now OPEN BY APPOINTMENT ONLY. Book online to shop our collection of fine antique jewelry, or for custom or repair work. We also buy.
home + design
Old Homes, New Life Step inside two Oregon home makeovers written by Melissa Dalton
Hood River: A 1940s farmhouse expands for an active family FOR KAREN “WOODY” WOODBURY and Aaron Woo, remodels always start with the kitchen. The 1940s Hood River farmhouse they bought in 2016 was no exception. “It had a tiny kitchen and an electric stove. My husband is a chef and electric stoves are definitely not his jam,” Woodbury said. “I think it caught fire the first time he really started cooking, and then he started using the flame. I was like, ‘You’re not sautéing on a gas stove, dude.’”
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home + design
Photos: Caitlin Murray/Built Photo
A one-and-a-half story addition to the Hood River home gave the owners more space for their growing family.
The couple relocated from Portland with their two children after a decade of running three restaurants. “We grew out of wanting such a city life,” Woodbury said. “We were looking for a smaller community that was outdoororiented.” As a family of avid skiers, especially their son, proximity to Mount Hood was key, as was being able to keep a horse. Their daughter was diagnosed with Williams syndrome, a genetic condition that impacts visual-spatial tasks, and she has used equine therapy from a young age, to great success. The farmhouse the couple found is on 2.15 acres and the previous owner taught riding lessons there, so it already had a barn and riding arena. “There’s nothing fancy about it,” Woodbury said of the horse facilities. “It’s as simple as you can get, but it’s perfect.” The farmhouse was less so. Besides the tiny kitchen, an outdated heating system made winter bitter, and the family needed more space. The couple tapped architect Chase SparlingBeckley, who now runs Saga Design + Build Studio, but was then with Green Home Design + Build, the contractor on the project. They built an addition that hosts all of the living spaces as a “social hub” and ironed out the farmhouse’s existing floorplan for ideal circulation. “We were really trying to not build a McMansion,” Woodbury said. “We wanted to keep it on the smaller side, but have lots of usable space.” Now, the one-and-a-half-story addition captures views of the East Hills, a vista previously blocked by an ill-placed shed. “Anchoring [the addition] with its own formal language was important,” Sparling-Beckley said. To do so, he specified a steep pitched roof and vertical board and batten metal siding. The metal’s charcoal color matches freshly painted siding
on the preserved home, and a new front porch connects the two volumes. The porch sports fir boards salvaged from the demolished shed. “That is a really nice metaphor for bridging the old and new,” Sparling-Beckley said. At the entry, Sparling-Beckley created a mudroom for gear, and the former kitchen became a laundry room. In the addition, radiant floor heating makes for toastier winters, and warm wood accents and an industrial farmhouse aesthetic—conveyed via soaring ceilings crossed with timber beams, concrete floors, Shakerstyle cabinets painted a jaunty blue—are stylish and practical. The kitchen takes pride of place. Designed to the couple’s specifications, it has a six-burner gas stove, separate pantry, sightlines to the barn area from the kitchen sink, and a large island for the chef to maneuver. “Aaron loves to cook and people love to talk to Aaron and ask questions while he’s cooking. It’s very entertaining,” Woodbury said. “So, having a kitchen with an island that enables him to cook and have people gather around was really essential.”
Portland: A historic home attains its former glory The W.R. MacKenzie Residence sits in a quiet enclave in the King’s Hill Historic District in Southwest Portland, in a pocket that feels far removed from the nearby hustle of West Burnside and the ringing MAX trains at Providence Park. The streets around the home are lined with mature trees and stately houses, many of which are deemed historic landmarks for having been designed by notable architectural firms in Portland’s past. MacKenzie
ABOVE, FROM LEFT This 1940s farmhouse needed some more space, and some freshening up. An industrial farmhouse aesthetic is on display throughout the home.
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Photos: Blackstone Edge Studios
home + design
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The buyer of the W.R. MacKenzie Residence wanted to ensure the historic beauty of the home was maintained, even with upgrades. A custom crystal pendant above the stairs complements originals. The kitchen cabinets look similar to those found in the butler’s pantry. An exterior restoration included refurbishing original windows.
commissioned the residence from Whidden & Lewis, an architectural firm that opened its doors in 1889, and was responsible for such buildings as Portland City Hall and Multnomah County Courthouse. According to the 1978 application to add the home to the National Register of Historic Places for its preserved Federal style, “The arrival of Whidden & Lewis marked the arrival of current Eastern styles, and architecturally speaking, Portland had ‘come of age.’” More recently, the home appeared in an Oregonian roundup of Portland’s oldest buildings, appropriately titled “Still Standing.” “It’s had a long life, and in that life, it’s had a handful of owners and has also gone through a handful of renovations, some more thoughtful than others,” interior designer Katy Krider said. Krider worked with the newest owner, as well as Olson & Jones Construction and architect Jeffrey Miller to revitalize the home after its 2016 purchase. The bones were there, but deferred maintenance and ’90s-era finishes required attention. The project began with a complete exterior restoration led by Full Circa, which included repairing such key details as the quoins wrapping the building’s corners and refurbishing original windows. Inside, the formal layout on the first floor was maintained, mechanical systems upgraded and the kitchen overhauled. “It was a very claustrophobic kitchen and functionally, just didn’t work well,” Krider said. A peninsula bisected 32 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
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the room, creating a narrow aisle that trapped the cook. Krider reconfigured the plan for a generous island that facilitates better flow. Deft decisions updated the home without muddying its historic provenance. “There was a lot of time spent during the design process on really trying to be as consistent as possible with the original intention of the house,” Krider said. Delicate crystal light fixtures, including sconces that bear evidence of when the home had been converted from gas to electric, were restored and rewired for modern use. At the stairs, Krider designed and commissioned a custom crystal pendant to complement the originals. Rich soapstone replaced broken tile in the fireplace surrounds. The kitchen cabinetry mirrors the style of the original units found in the butler’s pantry, and new wood flooring was laid in the same decorative pattern as the old. Fittingly for such a historic house, the project was guided by extensive research, by both the homeowner and Krider. The owner’s findings guided the choice of paint colors—a convivial red and blue in the dining and living rooms—and they even discovered that the house had probably not been built in 1893, but rather 1904. “It wasn’t just a house to the client,” Krider said. “It really had a soul and a story to tell through the previous owners, and I think the client was really interested in understanding that.”
NOTHING IS AS SAFE AS YOUR OWN HOME
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home + design
DIY: Research the History of Your House
illustration by Drew Bardana
IT CAN BE tricky to plot the history of a house that’s been around for decades; there aren’t always available records and previous owners may have made drastic changes to the original architecture. The research process is a marathon, not a sprint. Here are tips to get started. TAP THE TAXMAN Check the city or county property records first, usually collected by the assessor’s office. Databases, like PortlandMaps, may be accessible online, and data should include the year the home was built and possibly historic permits, which provide further clues to owners’ names and changes made. STUDY THE STYLE This can also be difficult to discern without opening up walls. Certain key exterior design features can be indicators, such as the roof shape or pattern to the window muntins. Check the local library to learn what architectural design features were popular during specific eras using architecture books, such as Virginia McAlester’s A Field Guide to American Houses, or historic catalogs of house plans, the latter of which may be scanned and found via Google search. 34 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
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IDENTIFY PAST OWNERS The owner of the W.R. MacKenzie Residence used www. ancestry.com and Oregon newspaper archives to research the lives of previous residents. TALK TO NEIGHBORS People who have lived in the same neighborhood for decades can be a source of information as to how the house used to look, which can be a clue as to how the exterior or floorplan has changed over time. VISIT YOUR LOCAL LIBRARY OR HISTORY SOCIETY Local research librarians can be a great guide for this process and point you to specific resources that aid the information-gathering quest. The current owner of the W.R. MacKenzie Residence pored over the digital Sanborn map collection at Multnomah County Library to determine that the home had most likely been built a decade after 1893.
home + design
Get the Modern Farmhouse Style You’re spending lots of time at home—make it beautiful
Fabricated from durable steel and stackable, Tolix-style chairs are comfortable and easy to clean, making them a perennial favorite for those who want something practical around the table. Pick your favorite color, whether that’s a sunny yellow, groovy teal or classic black, for a punchy accent to your dining scheme. www.target.com
Rejuvenation’s Adair Hand-Knotted Rug is woven in India with highquality wool from Sardinia, making for a cushy base to laze around the living room on Sunday morning. We like how the classic pattern has been updated in a coral/rust/ pink color, to give off the collected and casual vibe that a modern farmhouse is all about. www.rejuvenation.com
Ditch the futon for Room & Board’s Macalester Leather Sofa. Available in three different lengths up to 100 inches, the timeless Chesterfieldstyle is perfect for cozying up with a good book, or spreading out for movie nights. In cognac leather, it should patina beautifully and stand up to years of wear.
The Seattle-based Lantern Press employs an in-house team of artists and graphic designers to create original, high-quality artwork and illustrations, many of which highlight the natural beauty and quirky destinations found throughout Oregon. Find your favorite locales and frame the poster for a vibrant addition to your gallery wall.
www.roomandboard.com
www.retail.lanternpress.com SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020
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mind + body Littlewing Athletics is an allfemale running team based in Bend. Many of the runners are Olympic hopefuls.
Still Running
For Bend’s elite running team, the delay of the Olympics is just a bump in the road written by Sheila G. Miller
IT’S BEEN A strange year for everyone, and perhaps none more than professional athletes. As coronavirus has swept the world, athletes have— like millions of others—seen their already shaky financial prospects dwindle and their ability to participate in events disappear. And that’s not even taking into account the closure of gyms, pools and other workout facilities. Lauren Fleshman, a Bend coach and former professional runner, said Olympic hopefuls like the runners she coaches are uniquely positioned to deal with such disappointment.
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Photos: The Mighty Creature Company
mind + body
Lauren Fleshman is a competitive runner and coach to a bevy of Bend Olympic hopefuls.
“You’re always walking the line of letting yourself have the biggest, most audacious dreams possible, and then being disappointed frequently,” she said. “When you go all in and it doesn’t happen, there’s a risk of devastation. But the roller coaster is part of the deal. Out of all the people experiencing COVID-related disappointments and changes to their schedules, athletes are probably more resilient than the average people, because it’s part of the job. Every single person I’ve coached has best-laid plans spoiled, by a respiratory infection or an Achilles tendon injury. This is the first time the races have disappeared. Usually it’s you that keeps you from the races.” Fleshman coaches Littlewing Athletics, an all-female professional running club based in Bend. Six women currently train with Littlewing, with a seventh preparing to join. The runners, all Olympic hopefuls, race at a variety of distances, from 800 meters to steeplechase to ultramarathon. She’s coached the team for six years after retiring from the sport in 2016. Fleshman specialized in the 5,000 meters. She was a five-time NCAA champion, went to three world championships, was a two-time U.S. champion and at her height was seventh in the world. Littlewing is sponsored by Oiselle, a female-led apparel company. That female lens follows through to the team, which focuses on a healthy training environment for women. The women who train with Fleshman run and work out each day, and Fleshman meets with them for the hard workouts. An example: on a recent day, one athlete did eight reps of 400 meters with a 2-minute walk or jog recovery in between. Each rep was at her goal mile pace. Other workouts are more complicated—speed work and intervals. “That’s where the coaching magic comes in,” Fleshman
said. “The idea is to get enough of each ingredient so they’re strong and durable and powerful.” For Fleshman, coaching makes it more difficult to stay fit. “A common problem for coaches is you spend time watching other people work out and you feel mentally exhausted, you feel like you worked out, but you didn’t,” she said. “You aren’t getting health through osmosis.” Once in awhile, she stays at the track after her athletes to get in some training, but she’s particularly focused these days on mountain biking. “You can do it in a wider range of temperatures,” she said. “Plus you can carry water on your bike.” One benefit of the coronavirus may have been that, with many gyms closed and other fitness programs off the table, more people are turning to running as a way to exercise. “It’s exciting to see so many people introducing themselves to the sport of running. I think that’s good,” Fleshman said. “It’s nice to be able to connect more people in our community with the work we do.” Once the Olympics were off the calendar, Fleshman said her athletes had to decide what they were racing for. “What I ended up on was that we like pushing our bodies. That’s what drew us to this spot,” she said. “Before we ever cared about podiums or glory, we were attracted to seeing what we could do. … We can still do that, whether or not there’s a race on the calendar.” While the Olympics are off, Littlewing athletes have participated in some of the Portland Track-organized Big Friendly races around the metro area. What comes next is unclear, but that’s all part of Fleshman’s training philosophy—“preparing for the rocky road, always, and then being comfortable without having the answers.” SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020
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artist in residence
Get Out the Map Shel Mae takes old maps and turns them into new—and gorgeous—art written by Sheila G. Miller
IF BEING COOPED UP for months in your home has given you a serious case of wanderlust, look to Shel Mae’s art for inspiration. Mae starts with old maps, then creates plant and flower sculptures, mounting them on found wood. The result is beautiful, tactile work that will have you looking around your house for repurposable objects—and also perhaps planning a road trip. Mae grew up in rural Oregon, spending tons of time outdoors. Her mother—a pianist, interior decorator and chef—encouraged her creativity. “When we had maps in the car when we were kids, and even as adults, it was like you were a sensible person,” she said, laughing. “That was the reasonable thing to do—a good map and a little compass for when you got lost. There’s a lot of nostalgia for me around maps. My mother loved to drive to the Gorge or the beach and there was always a map in the car and someone was always blocking the windshield with it.”
Shel Mae’s artwork transforms old maps into flowers.
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artist in residence
“When we had maps in the car when we were kids, and even as adults, it was like you were a sensible person. … My mother loved to drive to the Gorge or the beach and there was always a map in the car and someone was always blocking the windshield with it.” — Shel Mae, artist In the early 2000s, Mae worked with women’s cooperatives around the world to develop fair trade products, and as a result routinely saw tribal art made from waste—tires, plastic bags and other found pieces. From 2010 to 2018, Mae oversaw four retail stores that sold used and donated building materials. Among the materials that crossed her desk was a box of Rand McNally tourism maps from the ’70s, sold at Texaco and Union 76 gas stations. “They were headed to the recycling bin,” she said. “As a rule, I am not a collector. But I could not pass these up.” When she was laid off in 2018 and had months of unemployment stretching in front of her, she decided to play around with the maps. The result? Some incredible artwork. She said she’d always made art, but never had a focus or thought of herself as a creative. Since she began making these paper map sculptures, that has changed. Her first piece centered on some old Cadillac tail lights she had sitting around. She added a yellowtinted map of Los Angeles and loved the result. When Mae got the maps, she had been painting flowers and trying to get texture and depth just right. She found that folding the maps would give her the angles she craved. “I just love 3-D, I like my 3-D work better than I do my flat work,” she said. She got online and found a few flower petal templates, but mostly she used trial and error. “A lot of my first pieces came out a little bit stiff, and I wanted more flow,” Mae said. To deal with that, she began soaking both sides of the map in acrylic to give them a better texture and allow them to hold shape and be more bendable. Her aunt recently sent her a bag of Metsker Maps, mostly Oregon, Washington and California maps by county. “In the past I had painted or tinted the maps to give them more texture and color,” she said. “Now I’m really focused on presenting the maps as they are.” She may tint the edges, but for the most part, she wants the beauty of the maps to speak for itself.
Mae recently finished a piece using a Metsker map of Crook County. She believes the map was printed before 1980, and it features the region’s local ranches and farms. In an effort to be faithful to the county, she decided to model her map sculpture on a native plant called Mule’s Ears that blooms in the summer. To build the pieces, she takes less interesting parts of the map, rolls them tightly and then glues them and cuts them at an angle. That shapes the center. “It’s time-consuming and tedious,” Mae said. “But it’s one of the things that people like—it adds that texture.” Once the center is complete, Mae shapes petals, building on half a foam ball. She cuts out and individually shapes each leaf and petal. “There’s really no other way to do it,” she said. Then she fits them all together and mounts the piece on wood—sometimes she has a piece already in mind, other times she searches one out when the rest of the project is complete. Each piece takes about fifteen hours to complete, but she spreads out the work. “My hands get little cramps from playing with pieces of paper,” she said. “I keep thinking there’s got to be an easier way, but I don’t think so.” Mae recently hung her second show at The Observatory, a bar in Portland. Her third show will take place at Imogen Gallery in Astoria, in December. With a full-time job, she works on her art in her extra hours. She encourages other artists to find time to create, even if the first few projects don’t turn out so well. “I think the biggest thing to do is make art. You should always be making, and don’t judge yourself,” she said. “Then set it aside without judgments. What happens is people tend to judge the first things they make pretty harshly. … Art is a practice, and you have to practice in order to get better at it.” LEARN MORE
Find more of Shel Mae’s work on Instagram @shel.made. Her work also will be shown with other fiber artists at the Hook, Pulp & Weave show at Astoria’s Imogen Gallery from December 12 to January 5.
ABOVE, FROM TOP Portland’s Shel Mae has brought old maps new life. Mae’s pieces involve intricate folding and cutting, as well as some tinting, to make the maps into art.
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STARTUP 42 WHAT’S GOING UP 44 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 46 MY WORKSPACE 48
pg. 50 Oregon State University’s TRACE project is helping communities learn how pervasive coronovirus really is.
Karl Maasdam/Oregon State University TRACE
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startup
A New Kind of College Wayfinding Academy offers a new paradigm for higher education written by Kevin Max
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Photos: Wayfinding Academy
startup
IN 2005, MICHELLE JONES taught a seminar at Concordia University called, “We Don’t Need No Education.” In it, she asked her students, if they could redesign education, what would they do? Wayfinding Academy, a two-year nonprofit alternative education based in the St. Johns neighborhood of Portland, is the answer to that question. “I think we need change at all levels of education in this country,” Jones said. Founded in 2014, its curriculum is based on a common core, labs, internships and advising. Each student has a guide who meets with them every week for forty-five minutes. The guides are personal and professional coaches with backgrounds in facilitation. Much like traditional colleges, students fulfill credit requirements through the program and a common core curriculum which includes topics such as: Understanding Our World, Communicating Effectively; and Science, Technology and Society. Students finish core with “The Good Life,” which asks students to examine their definition of success in life. There are no grades, and students’ assignments are typically group projects. For projects, Jones said, students have to be more motivated, self-directed and accountable to their teammates. These projects eventually become the students’ portfolios. While Wayfinding Academy received approval from Oregon’s Higher Education Coordinating Commission, it is still seeking a higher level of accreditation, from which federal financial aid flows. Annual tuition at Wayfinding Academy is approximately $11,000 but, by working with each student, leveraging donors, crowdfunding and scholarships, Wayfinding Academy administrators leave students “without any debt when they graduate,” Jones said. What’s driving the movement to alternative paradigms for post-high school education? “The reality in today’s digital-first world is that we need to teach every generation how to learn, unlearn, and relearn—quickly—so they can transform the future of work, rather
than be transformed by it,” said the authors of Harvard Business Review’s, “6 Reasons Why Higher Education Needs to Be Disrupted.” The return on investment is also no longer compelling for many college graduates. The average annual cost of tuition and fees at private colleges in the United States has doubled to $36,880 since 1990, according to Trends in College Pricing by College Board Research. The cost of a public university has tripled over the same period. Median hourly wages, meanwhile, have only squeaked up 7 percent since then. As a result, students are graduating with more debt and may have focused on a career that will soon be replaced by technology. Jones sees a world in which the highest knowledge is that of students being able to teach and reteach themselves new skills for an ever-evolving workplace. This concept isn’t completely new—alternative colleges such as Hampshire College in Massachusetts (and others) have been around since the 1960s—but maybe its time has come. Jones’ dad was a pediatrician. That generation, she said, was promised that you could pay your way through college, earn a healthy income with some stability and lead a good life. “For this generation, that is definitely not the case,” Jones noted. “They are going to have to reinvent themselves over and over again.”
ABOVE Wayfinding Academy founder and president Michelle Jones. AT LEFT Wayfinding student Josephine, left, and Wayfinding guide Sarah on the main steps.
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what’s going up?
Eugene’s Waterfront Wonder A new redevelopment will connect the city with the river written by Grace Gunn EUGENE IS GETTING a serious riverfront facelift. The Eugene Water & Electric Board has long based operations at a 16-acre property along the Willamette River. In 2007, the city of Eugene and the utility started working together to make the property a place for the public. A master plan in 2010 identified plans to create a public park, as well as multiuse riverfront development, including housing. The city adopted the land-use policies in 2013, and used urban renewal funding to purchase the land from the board for $5.75 million in 2018. Construction on streets and utilities began in June, and construction of the park began in May. The park is expected to be complete and ready for a grand opening in spring 2021. The planned 3-acre Downtown Riverfront Park, as well as a 1-acre plaza, will
provide access to the river, as well as multiuse and pedestrian paths. The park will stretch from the historic Steam Plant to the DeFazio Bridge. Williams/Dame & Associates has planned a variety of retail, restaurant space, as well as multifamily housing, townhomes and affordable housing for the property as well. The project will also allow the city to renovate and re-envision the Steam Plant on site. Currently, the city is working with a development team to redevelop the historic building. The plan could feature a tap room and “micro-restaurant spaces” on the ground floor, as well as other “micro-retail” and office space. The building would also feature community art space and may have a connection with the University of Oregon for makerspaces or other labs.
ABOVE, FROM TOP Preliminary plans for the Steam Plant call for river overlooks outside, as well as multiuse spaces inside.
NEW RIVERFRONT DEVELOPMENT The 16-acre property is designed to create economic and housing opportunity, as well as to enhance and preserve the natural setting.
HOUSING AND MIXED-USE DEVELOPMENT
HOUSING AND MIXED-USE DEVELOPMENT
WATERFRONT TRAIL
STEAM PLANT
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Thompson’s Mills
Photo by Stephanie Low
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what i’m working on
The Wood Detectives OSU lab helps government combat timber crime interview by Sheila G. Miller
AT FIRST BLUSH, “timber crime” doesn’t seem like something to get worked up about. But it takes an environmental and economic toll. Now the Wood Identification & Screening Center has relocated from Ashland to Oregon State University’s College of Forestry. The forensics lab works in partnership with the Forest Service International Programs office and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Using mass spectrometry, scientists can identify whether timber imported into the United States is what its importers claim it to be. Using a tiny sliver of the wood in question, the scientists try to match it to wood already in its always-growing reference database to determine its species. We sat down with WISC Director Beth Lebow to learn more about the lab’s role in combating crime. Why is this an issue we should care about? A lot of people don’t realize it’s such a big problem. They have no idea that there is likely a massive amount of illegal wood coming into the United States. It’s the third most profitable transnational crime globally, and it’s a major contributor to global deforestation, climate change, biodiversity loss, and negative impacts on forest-dependent people. It also has major economic costs—it costs the U.S. forest products industry up to $1 billion in lost profits a year. So there’s an impact on the U.S. industry because global wood is sold more cheaply, and illegal actors are not paying taxes and not following regulations or they’re selling to black markets. Many illegal logging supply chains are associated with networks that are trafficking drugs and people. It’s a global issue of illegality and bad actors.
WISC Director Beth Lebow works with OSU to take on timber crime.
the size of a toothpick—from that shipment to WISC, and we do the species identification for them. We complete the case and send back the results to whomever requested it, and then they take it from there with regards to enforcement actions. We definitely have found misdeclarations in our casework. Why is OSU’s College of Forestry the right spot for this lab? In addition to engaging students, we want to pursue technology development in partnership with other
What happens when a government agency suspects a shipment has been misdeclared? They can send a sliver of wood—all we need is a sliver smaller than 46 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
scientists here. We have three scientists who do wood identification, and we’re always looking for the technology to be more accurate. There is a need to further develop the technologies to identify composite wood products that make the analysis of the product more complicated. We also want to pursue technologies that can answer the origin questions of where timber came from. And then we want to be a trainer for global partners interested in wood identification. That all becomes possible in a university setting.
“A lot of people don’t realize it’s such a big problem. They have no idea that there is likely a massive amount of illegal wood coming into the United States. It’s the third most profitable transnational crime globally, and it’s a major contributor to global deforestation, climate change, biodiversity loss, and negative impacts on forest-dependent people.” — Beth Lebow, director of the Wood Identification & Screening Center
2020
MUSEUM FROM HOME
Public talks, family fun, and more—now online! Stay connected and stay curious about Oregon’s past, present, and future.
mnch.uoregon.edu
my workspace
On Trend
Portland’s Tricia Langman is a textile design star, and so much more written by Sheila G. Miller
Tricia Langman is busy. She’s a textile designer who trained in England, made a name for herself in New York designing for Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren and Banana Republic, then headed to Portland, where she runs her design studio, Spoogi, is writing a book on sustainable batik, and serves as an instructor for the Portland Fashion Institute. We’re not done yet: She also consults with the United Nations, works for the non-governmental organization Hecho Por Nosotros, and mentors female students of color through Links, a nonprofit in Portland. Oh, and she works with a nonprofit called TYE, teaching design thinking in Portland.
When her son was 2, she and her husband moved to Portland so he could work on projects with Nike and she could pursue teaching. She helped move the Art Institute of Portland’s curriculum away from the conceptual into the more hands-on, teaching batik and screen printing for several years. In 2013, Langman was called on to design a batik blanket collection for Pendleton. “Initially I thought they meant to put my designs on cotton, but she meant on Pendleton wool!” she said, laughing. “I had to go and experiment—wool shrinks when you dye it—so I came up with this whole process.”
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my workspace
Recently, Langman has started experimenting with creating one-of-a-kind cushions, reusing old leather and suede, then embossing and drawing on them. She’s also been working with watercolors on large flower paintings, in part, she believes, because she’s felt so locked away during the pandemic. Her current interest in vintage kimonos has also inspired some of her painting.
Langman takes inspiration from everywhere, although she points both to nature and her family’s extensive library as common flashpoints. Her focus is primarily florals and nature, though she also has a deep interest in mark-making and batik. Whatever the art she’s working on, she likes to go to her studio and really focus, instead of trying to split time between art and business. “I like to have stuff around me to build up the creative juices,” Langman said.
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game changer
TRACE teams work a Corvallis neighborhood to collect samples.
Game Changer
Tracking the Spread OSU’s TRACE public health project is helping track the prevalence of coronovirus around the state written by Sheila G. Miller
CORONAVIRUS HAS GIVEN US a front-row seat to the scientific method, for better and for worse. It’s also left a lot of people feeling helpless, not knowing when life will get back to some semblance of normalcy and wondering, if you’re not a health professional, what can you do besides try to play by the rules and stay home while waiting for a vaccine? Oregon State University’s TRACE public health project seeks to provide more information to our communities, measuring how prevalent the virus is in cities around the state. And it’s asking some members of the public for help. 50 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
2020
TRACE—Team-based Rapid Assessment of Communitylevel coronavirus Epidemics—has so far studied prevalence of the virus in Corvallis, Bend, Hermiston and Newport. Because Oregon has limited testing, most people who have gotten a coronavirus test have done so because they had symptoms. TRACE seeks to determine how widespread SARSCoV-2 (the virus responsible for coronavirus) is in a community by taking a sampling of neighborhood households—representatives approach a group of households in various neighborhoods around the communities and ask them to voluntarily take a COVID-19 test. The participants use a home test kit, inside their homes, then return it to staff. The result? A better understanding of how pervasive the virus is, as well as more information about how the virus spreads, and what public health methods might help contain the spread. The project also includes sewer samples at the cities’ wastewater treatment plants and in sewer lines in some neighborhoods. Those samples measure the concentration of remnant SARS-CoV-2—as the website says, “Everyone contributes to the composition of a city’s or community’s wastewater,” so this provides more evidence of the virus’s reach within a community. Jeffrey Bethel, a Ph.D and professor of epidemiology at Oregon State University, is a co-director and co-principal investigators for the TRACE program. He said representatives from OSU’s College of Science and College of Public Health and Human Sciences were eager to
game changer
Photos: Karl Maasdam/Oregon State University TRACE
“We thought, as a land grant university, we are uniquely positioned to do this kind of work because we have a presence in every county in the state.” — Jeffrey Bethel, Ph.D, professor of epidemiology at Oregon State University and co-director and co-principal investigators for the TRACE program
help do their part to control the spread of the epidemic. They came together with the College of Engineering and decided to start the project. “We thought, as a land grant university, we are uniquely positioned to do this kind of work because we have a presence in every county in the state,” Bethel said. OSU mobilized a variety of groups across campuses to make the work a success, from the motor pool and printing and mailing department all the way up to the Office of the General Counsel and the OSU Foundation. “It’s been a big effort by many people and programs,” he said. “From the beginning, the gap we have been trying to fill that continues to be the case is that the people getting tested are people who are showing symptoms and who present to the medical system,” he said. “We know that a lot of people who are infected aren’t showing symptoms.” TRACE started its testing in Corvallis, primarily because it had OSU’s infrastructure there. It then expanded to Bend (where OSU-Cascades also provided infrastructure) and then to Newport—where there were workplace outbreaks in June— and most recently to Hermiston. The Oregon Health Authority funded the Hermiston TRACE study because of the high prevalence in that community. Thirty teams of two, all paid, descend on neighborhoods to collect samples. Each team consists of one health professional and one undergraduate or graduate student. The health professional leads the interactions with the households, obtains consent and conducts interviews. The student handles many of the organizational aspects—maintaining a tracking sheet, overseeing all paperwork and stepping in to help wherever needed. “They’re not just along for the ride, they’re playing a vital role,” Bethel said. “And they’re getting great experience.” The results have been interesting, Bethel said. Initial TRACE studies in Bend and Corvallis, back in April and May, found very low prevalence of the virus. In Newport, meanwhile, 3.4 percent of the population was estimated to have the virus. And in Hermiston in July, of the thirty
ABOVE, FROM TOP A TRACE employee explains the program to a community member. Samples are taken in the home, then handed off to TRACE for testing.
neighborhood clusters tested, half had at least one positive case. “It was widespread,” Bethel said. “That’s kind of what our intent was all along, to go into a community and see—how widespread is the virus?” In Hermiston, about 80 percent of the people who had the virus reported no symptoms in the forty-eight hours before the samples were collected. “That just shows that people can be unknowingly a part of transmission cycle,” he said, “highlighting the need to be vigilant, wear masks, maintain social distance and practice hand hygiene.” Overall, TRACE has seen a positive response from the community. In Corvallis, almost 80 percent of households approached were willing to participate in the study. Bend participation hit around 70 percent, as did Newport. In Hermiston, about 44 percent participated, which Bethel acknowledged was lower but still higher than most door-to-door or telephone surveys nationwide. “Across all communities, some people don’t want to get tested, and some add commentary for our teams. We’ve seen it all,” Bethel said. “Regardless, we’re very appreciative of everyone participating.” Bethel believes OSU is one of the few, maybe the only, university running a population-based random sampling for coronavirus. “From the beginning, one of our goals was to generate a playbook template for other universities and states to use to do similar work,” he said. “We’ve got a lot of lessons we’ve learned to share with others. That’s always been the plan.” SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020
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Thomas J. Story
TINY, BUT
MIGHTY
In Bend, The Hiatus is reimagining what neighborhoods can look like.
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Inspired by the tiny house movement, a small-scale cottage development pops up in Bend written by Melissa Dalton
BASHA MCDANIEL’S home gives shape to her days. In the morning, the retired cranial sacral therapist sits at one of her kitchen counters and writes, gazing over her back porch at a pond and garden she shares with neighbors. There’s enough floor space to dance or work out, or McDaniel hits the river with her kayak. If she has to clean, it only takes two hours to finish her entire house. “As a young girl, I watched my mother and her friends spend their lives taking care of houses, and I knew from a young age that I didn’t want to do that,” McDaniel said. McDaniel’s home in Bend is 598 square feet, far below the national norm of 2,509 square feet last year. That square footage has trended down incrementally since 2015. According to the National Association of Home Builders in a 2020 report: “The majority of both first-time buyers and repeat buyers would rather have a smaller home with high-quality products and services than a bigger home with fewer amenities.” It’s a cultural shift that Jesse Russell, who founded Hiatus Homes and built McDaniel’s cottage, has long seen brewing. SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020
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RUSSELL GREW UP in Bend, but didn’t appreciate it until he left. “Once I got out of high school, I wanted to get out of Bend as quickly as I possibly could,” Russell said. He traveled far and wide, from cooking in Antarctica to crewing a schooner boat in Australia. “At some point, I realized that I had lived in one of the most beautiful places in the world, and started coming back,” Russell said. Five years ago, Russell was a reality television producer in Los Angeles dissatisfied with his career, when he met with the FYI Network and heard about a show called “Tiny House Nation.” “I didn’t even know what a tiny house was, but I went back to my office and I looked it up online,” Russell said. “I saw these great photos of houses built on trailers that were so innovative and beautiful, and the people seemed to have a different way of looking at housing and lifestyles.” Hooked on tiny homes as a means for living with less and reducing environmental impact, Russell sold his belongings and returned to Bend for good in 2015, crashing in his friend’s shop to build his first tiny house. That October, they debuted it at the Bend Design Conference, and were greeted enthusiastically by long lines of people wanting a tour. Encouraged, Russell met with the city about installing several tiny homes on a standard residential lot, but the idea didn’t fly. Since tiny homes are usually constructed on trailers, they can be classified by municipalities as recreational vehicles (RVs), which typically cannot be occupied fulltime on a residential lot. In 2015, Bend passed the “Cottage Code” to promote density in the fast-growing city and increase affordable housing supply in an expensive market. A cottage home measures 1,200 square feet or less, and there’s no minimum lot size. The code enabled Russell to adapt his original proposal. “It wasn’t the wheels that I believed in, it was the reduction of the overall square footage, and the innovation that comes from living in a smaller place,” Russell said. He built The Hiatus as a cluster of twenty-two homes, most just under 600 square feet. “It took us 54 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
2020
The Hiatus is a cluster of twenty-two homes, most under 600 square feet.
Photos: Thomas J. Story
ABOVE, FROM TOP Basha McDaniel’s home allows her to prioritize quality over quantity. Outdoor community spaces, like a garden, provide more space for cottage dwellers.
“I didn’t even know what a tiny house was, but I went back to my office and I looked it up online. I saw these great photos of houses built on trailers that were so innovative and beautiful, and the people seemed to have a different way of looking at housing and lifestyles.” — JESSE RUSSELL, HIATUS HOMES DEVELOPER
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Photos: Thomas J. Story
ABOVE, FROM LEFT Russell worked with Mallory and Christian Torchio on design elements. The sleeping lofts have 6-foot ceilings.
at least a year just to get through the land-use portion of the development and get the city to agree to what we were trying to do,” Russell said. “Overall the city was super supportive, but we were all trying to figure this out for the first time.” The Hiatus site is part of a development once called The Shire, which envisioned an enclave of Tolkien-inspired architecture across fourteen lots on 6 acres. When the 2009 recession curtailed its completion, the undeveloped land sold. The 3.2acre parcel for The Hiatus retains The Shire’s existing landscaping, including mature Ponderosa trees, paths and ponds, as the features proved an excellent backdrop for the community. Under the “Cottage Code,” houses don’t have to face the street. They can be clustered around shared green space instead, an idea championed by Washington architect Ross Chapin’s concept of “Pocket Neighborhoods,” which also influenced Russell. A tight building envelope and Energy Star appliances facilitate less energy consumption in the homes, and one is zero-energy compliant. Inside, the layout feels spacious. Local designer Christian Torchio worked with Russell to calibrate the scale, including a standard tub in the bathroom, 6-foothigh ceilings in the sleeping loft and an ample island in the kitchen. “We didn’t want this to feel like a tiny house where you’re crouched underneath a loft to wash your dishes,” Torchio said. The bigger kitchen and bathroom allow the hangout spots, like the two lofts and living room, to be cozy. Torchio’s 56 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
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wife, Mallory, an interior designer, chose finishes for a simple, neutral palette. “Since it is such a small space, it could easily be overwhelmed if we did too much,” she said. Most importantly, every Hiatus home sits on a foundation on its own plot of land, sized between 1,700 and 3,050 square feet, just 2 miles from Bend’s Old Mill District. The homes hit the market in 2019, selling from $229,000 to $306,925. Their size, price and location were just what Andrew Wellman and his wife sought when they relocated to Oregon last year with their two children. “The whole idea piqued our interest right away,” said Wellman, who was born and raised in Indiana. “The Midwest doesn’t have anything like that.” Four years ago, Wellman was 30 years old and remodeling a three-story Victorian when he was diagnosed with a rare and aggressive cancer. The family sold everything to pay mounting medical debt. “What we realized through getting rid of all that was it was not a loss,” Wellman said, noting they have since adopted a minimalist lifestyle with the motto “Pack Light, Love Big.” With so much public interest—the FYI Network now has three shows on tiny homes—it’s easy to label living small a passing fad. Watching residents move into The Hiatus, Russell sees it differently, and plans to bring this small-scale development model both statewide and national. “The design of the house, it improves people’s lives,” Russell said. “It’s not just one type of person. We have a real diversity of people that are choosing to live this way.”
MODERN MIDDLE HOUSING IN OREGON
FROM TOP Kitchens have large islands to accommodate cooking. Living spaces feel spacious despite the square footage.
“IT’S NO SECRET that we’re in a housing crisis here in Oregon, and it’s not just a Portland issue,” said State Rep. Julie Fahy (D-West Eugene and Junction City) in a July presentation on “middle housing.” What’s that? Experts define it as a range of housing types that contain multiple units, are more affordable, and located in desirable city neighborhoods, while remaining compatible in form and scale to traditional single-family homes. In 2019, the Oregon Legislature passed House Bill 2001 to allow multiunit housing in residential zones once earmarked for single-family homes. For cities with populations above 25,000, instead of one house, such lots might now host cottage clusters, duplexes, triplexes, townhomes and ADUs. Local jurisdictions will decide how to implement the bill, which could stimulate creative approaches from builders and developers. “One of the reasons I was such a supporter of House Bill 2001 is that the status quo is not working in Oregon for too many people,” Fahy said. Take Tillamook Row in Northeast Portland. For it, five buildings with sixteen units are clustered on five previously vacant lots. Zero Energy construction from Green Hammer means no electric bills and owners and renters enjoy stylish interiors by Dyer Studio. Now, balconies, front porches, and kitchen windows overlook a shared courtyard, which has enabled neighbors to socialize comfortably during the isolation of the pandemic. “Sometimes I think increasing density is something that seems scary to people, but the community side of it is so important,” said Erica Dunn, director of design at Green Hammer. LEARN MORE: https://www.greenhammer. com/portfolio/commercial/net-zero-energydesign/tillamook-rowSEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020
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Tradition The
of
Ota Tofu has been crafting traditional Japanese tofu for more than 100 years. Today, it attracts a new generation of Portland chefs.
TASTE written by Rachel Pinsky photography by Carly Diaz
WHEN OTA TOFU OPENS ITS DOORS on Southeast Stark Street each morning at 9 a.m., customers arrive bearing Tupperware and coolers, seeking pieces that are still warm. Employees from Portland favorites like Nong’s Khao Man Gai, Verde Cocina, Aviv and Marukin Ramen appear with buckets. What they seek? An artisan, plant-based product made using traditional Japanese methods, without preservatives or machines, in much the same way for more than 100 years.
The tofu sits in an ice bath.
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OTA TOFU’S
HISTORY Ota Tofu started from humble beginnings. Brothers Heiji and Saizo Ohta immigrated from Okayama to Portland in the early twentieth century. In 1911, they opened a tofu shop called Asahi Tofu. Thirty-one years later in 1942, President Franklin D. Roosevelt signed Executive Order 9066 forcing the relocation of all Americans of Japanese ancestry. The tofu shop’s owners, Saizo Ohta and wife, Shina, were interned at Minidoka Relocation Center in Idaho. Saizo Ohta died at Minidoka. After the war, Shina Ohta returned to Portland, where her landlord had kept the company’s tofu-making equipment safe, and reopened the shop. In 1957, she gave the factory to her son-in-law and his son, Koichi Ota. Koichi Ota went to Japan to study tofumaking, then built the current factory in the early 1980s, making changes to create the tofu recipe we know today. Koichi Ota’s wife, Eileen, took over the company in 1987. Growing up in Portland, Eileen had eaten Ota Tofu her entire life, but wasn’t very passionate about it. When she married into the family, she had no interest in working at their tofu factory. “I never wanted to make tofu,” Ota explained. Yet, in 1987, she agreed to run the place, believing it was temporary. But with four daughters to raise,
the business provided a good income. After her daughters were grown and showed no interest in taking over the business, she set out to find a buyer. She spread the word about her plan to sell, including telling the director of the Japanese Heritage Society, an organization to which Ota donated tofu for Japanese meals to senior citizens. The Japanese Heritage Society’s chef was Sharon Ogata. An optician by training, Ogata was looking for a new career. She also wanted to lure her son, Jason, and his family back to the Portland area. “I was interested,” Ogata explained. “I wanted to get my son and grandkids to move closer. I also hated to see this business shut its doors.” Jason Ogata always dreamed of becoming a professional baseball player. He was recruited by the Texas Rangers, but injuries got in the way of his career. He earned a business degree from Oregon State University and an MBA from Portland State University, then worked his way up at Lennox International, starting as a sales representative in Portland and rising to district manager in Virginia. “There isn’t even a direct flight to Virginia to Portland,” Sharon Ogata told me. She felt Ota Tofu would be a good business for her and her son. If Jason moved back to
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1 Owner Jason Ogata at Ota Tofu. •••
2 Soy beans are soaked overnight, then pressure-cooked as part of the tofumaking process. •••
3 Over its more than 100 years in business, Ota Tofu has been featured in a variety of newspaper stories. •••
4 Jason Ogata packs a block of tofu.
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co-own the company, it would allow her to spend time with him and her grandkids. Jason came to Portland and toured the factory. Months later he found himself in rubber boots, running Ota Tofu. “Growing up, I thought I would be a professional baseball player,” Jason Ogata said. “I can’t believe I’m here running this place. I’m honored to be here.” The Ogatas make tofu in the same traditional way the Otas did for more than a century—without machines and without preservatives. “People
can make tofu a lot cheaper than we can with machines and one-tenth of the employees, but it won’t be the same quality. There’s nothing better than same-day tofu,” Jason Ogata said. The employees in the factory have stayed to work for the new owners, and the great-grandson of the original owners, Koichi Ota, comes in every day at 3 a.m. to work. According to Ogata, Ota has taught him everything about the company. “Jason is the son we never had,” Eileen Ota said.
TRADITIONAL JAPANESE
METHODS The factory is quiet, clean, and smells like warmed soy milk. Canary yellow soy beans soak overnight and are pressure cooked the next morning. Workers carefully stir the curds, then add nigari, a traditional Japanese ingredient used to coagulate soy milk, in quarter cup portions until the milk curdles. The curds resemble a soft-cooked, airy scrambled egg. It takes care to coax these quivering curds into solid form. They’re wrapped in muslin and placed into metal forms to be pressed into large rectangles. The amount of water squeezed from the tofu
determines if it is medium, firm or ultra firm. The workers are precise and focused, carefully eyeballing the mixture to make sure it’s ready for the next step in the process. They suspend solid blocks of tofu in a water bath, and chop it into twenty-four blocks with a large cleaver, then wrap it in packaging for the market. Ultra firm tofu heads to a long, shallow deep fryer where the heat is slowly cranked up to medium. When the heat reaches its peak, the tofu slices are turned every thirty seconds with chopsticks until they are golden and puffy.
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1 An Ota Tofu employee grinds soy beans. •••
2 An employee pours curded soy milk into forming boxes. •••
3 Water is squeezed from the tofu. •••
4 An employee cuts tofu into twenty-four blocks. •••
5 Sliced tofu sits in buckets. •••
6 Ultra-firm tofu is placed in a shallow fryer, and a worker turns it every thirty seconds. •••
7 Ota also sells soy milk.
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PLANT-BASED PRODUCTS FOR
PORTLAND CHEFS This ancient product, made using centuries-old Japanese tradition, draws Portland chefs. It fits with many of the latest food trends—there are only three ingredients. It’s also minimally processed, non-GMO, and plant-based. Salt & Straw recently used Ota Tofu for a banana peanut butter pudding vegan ice cream. “I really love Ota Tofu,” said Kat Whitehead, research and development manager of Salt & Straw. “They are the country’s oldest tofu company, family run, and they use traditional methods to make beautiful, natural tofu. The creamy texture of Ota Tofu is perfect for vegan ice cream. When we were developing the flavor
we knew we wanted to incorporate both their tofu and soy milk in the ice cream. We started by blending the tofu with peanut butter to create a rich cheesecake pudding swirl and then used the soy milk to create a banana ice cream. The natural emulsifiers in the soy milk helped give the vegan ice cream a more creamy mouthfeel.” Ryan and Elena Roadhouse, known for their highly acclaimed omakase restaurant Nodoguro, have used Ota Tofu products since opening in 2009. Ryan Roadhouse’s obsessive mastery of Japanese cuisine has won the restaurant praise from media such as The Oregonian, Eater, and Bon Appetit. The James Beard
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Foundation recently nominated him Best Chef for the Northwest and Pacific Region of the United States. Tofu is an essential ingredient in Japanese cuisine, and Ota Tofu fits with the Roadhouses’ ethos—it’s nonGMO, minimally processed with no additives. The quantities they use for their small, minimalist restaurant aren’t enough to hire a distributor. That’s fine—Ryan enjoys going to the Ota shop to pick up fresh products that can be served the same day they were made. He’s used Ota’s soy milk, fried tofu skin and okara (soy pulp), as well as tofu. The Roadhouses recently opened a casual restaurant next door to Nodoguro called Tonari. At Tonari, they use Ota’s silken tofu to re-create a tofu shake that Elena drank while growing up in Russia. They’re also planning on using okara, a soy pulp made up of the insoluble parts of the soybean, in their granola.
THE
1 Ota Tofu employees check packed tofu.
FUTURE
•••
2 Ultra-firm tofu is fried, and employees turn it with chopsticks. •••
3 Tonari’s Tofu Stamina Shake is made with Ota tofu, almond milk, organic sweet miso and a mix of fruit and is topped with chia seed and amazakeplumped goji berries.
When Governor Kate Brown ordered a shutdown due to the pandemic in March, there was a decrease in Ota Tofu’s sales to restaurants. Fortunately, at the same time, shoppers at grocery stores were looking for locally made products and the tofu company saw an increase in business at New Seasons, Market of Choice and Uwajimaya. There was also a slight uptick in customers buying directly from the shop. By July, restaurant sales improved as people were allowed, in a limited fashion, to dine out once again. A couple of new restaurants began buying from Ota as others told the Ogatas they would permanently close their doors. Despite the challenges of the pandemic, Jason Ogata feels good about the future of Ota Tofu. “I feel very fortunate,” he said, “that I can keep my staff here and business is keeping pretty steady.”
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BACKCOUNTRY
ARTISTS O F
G R A N T
C O U N T Y
written and photographed by Joni Kabana SOON AFTER MOVING TO EASTERN OREGON, I SET ABOUT TAKING LONG BACKCOUNTRY DRIVES, MOST OFTEN FINDING MYSELF OVER AND OVER AGAIN WITHIN THE BOUNDARIES OF GRANT COUNTY. I knew there was something different about this county—
wood carvers, leather toolers, muralists and more, Grant
the trove of Western antique shops, stunning landscapes,
County is home to many artistic souls, most of them
quirky characters and secret pit-fire dinners quickly cap-
self-taught.
tured my heart. But there was something else I kept no-
Here are profiles of just five of them. It was hard to de-
ticing at almost every turn—the bounty of artists living
cide who to feature – there are so many truly gifted Grant
and practicing in Grant County is astonishing. From fiber
County artists. Consider this a small taste of what is found
artists using local ranch fleece to painters of notoriety to
in this little slice of an Oregon art haven.
AT LEFT: “SUSPENDED” BY KIM RANDLEAS
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STEVE DEWEY COLEMAN CUSTOM LEATHER ARTIST
Steve Dewey said he gets his best ideas when he’s riding a motorcycle for a thousand miles—places “where ideas can find him.” He believes people can accomplish incredible things with relatively crude and antiquated means.
I learned what two bare hands are capable of. I’m inspired by an old set of weathered saddlebags or a billfold or knife sheath that belonged to some dusty grandpa. Whenever I see something that I could make myself, I envision it getting as old as these things, better with age, lasting lifetimes. Predictable environments don’t do much for me creatively. When all my needs are met and surpassed, I get too comfortable and my spirit withers. The fewer barriers between myself and the grit of the earth, the happier and most creative I am. I had to spend time getting good’n’gone to realize that this place speaks to me like nowhere else. That it will always be home. I love this place for what it has, as much as for what it doesn’t have.
IF YOUR ART COULD SPEAK, WHAT WOULD IT SAY? Do your worst, I can take it. LEARN MORE: @AT.HAND.LEATHER ON INSTAGRAM
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KIM RANDLEAS PAINTER | OIL ON PANEL, OIL ON COPPER, CHARCOAL
Kim Randleas’ studio is in the center of her family’s home, which she finds essential to her creative process. She believes her art is nourished by her family as much as her family is nourished by her art.
My number one goal has been and always will be connecting with people through my art. Conversation has never come naturally to me. When I began showing my work, I realized art circumvents language and hearts can connect without speaking. When I’m done, I take a step back and think to myself, “where did that come from?” I started painting when I was 40. Nothing about my background leads to painting realism. I had no idea how this would impact my life. What I do know is that I may be holding the brush, but I’m not running the show. I’m not creating, only allowing creation to come through me. This surprises me every day.
IF YOUR ART COULD SPEAK, WHAT WOULD IT SAY? Be still and listen. LEARN MORE: WWW.KIMRANDLEAS.COM
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PATRICIA BAEHR-ROSS MOSAIC ARTIST & PAINTER | OIL, PASTEL, CHARCOAL, PEN + INK
Patricia Baehr-Ross usually works alone in her studio or dining room, which has good north light. She also loves plein air painting, rain or shine.
Oregon is such a beautiful, diverse state which is full of inspiration. I am biased to parts of Eastern Oregon where the colors are more subtle, but so rich. I look for that dramatic light to intensify the colors for all subject matter. I have worked on a variety of surfaces in many diverse environments. From painting on brick or cement buildings on scaffolding to million-dollar homes, and personalized urns and caskets. I have painted on ice skates, cowboy boots and old sleds. I have used bowling balls to create mosaic décor. Art also runs in my family, it’s in my blood. My mother and younger sister were both well-known artists in the Central Oregon area. My daughter has also continued the family tradition as an artist. Each painting holds a unique memory … and I’ve painted many! Every painting is a new adventure. I don’t believe I’ll ever tire of it.
IF YOUR ART COULD SPEAK, WHAT WOULD IT SAY? Art is therapy and has the power to heal with love and happiness. LEARN MORE: @PROSS_FINEART ON INSTAGRAM
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GINGER SHIVE FIBER ARTIST
Ginger Shive described the extensive amount of manual labor that goes into extracting fiber, from raw fleece to the finished product: picking, washing, carding, spinning, dyeing and then hours of dressing the loom before she can even get to weaving gorgeous textiles.
I have a rug I wove for my parents back in the 1970s when I was just learning. And it is now on my living room floor looking as good as it did the day I took it off the loom, even though it’s been washed dozens of times. I wear a poncho I wove using yarn I spun. The fibers were given to me by three spinning friends. Some is from yarn they spun themselves and some of the fiber is from the rancher who supplies my wool. Wearing the poncho just wraps me in friendships, long-lasting, forever friendships
Each animal produces a different fiber, even if they are
with lots of memories of laughs and good fun.
twins. Some are soft as butter and work well in garments.
I have always said the creative ‘juices’ cannot be just
Others are coarser and are suited for rougher garments or
turned on and off. I do go through periods when my
rugs. I purchase my wool from a rancher near Seneca.
imagination and drive seem to stagnate. Especially if I
Since each fleece is so individual, as I handle and spin it,
find myself juggling responsibilities.
I’m evaluating how I should use it. Each skein as it comes off my wheel/bobbin is measured out on my ‘niddy noddy’ (a colonial tool still used today). I think what happens in the dye pot is the most creative aspect of my art. This aspect carries over to the color combinations and how they relate in my pieces.
IF YOUR ART COULD SPEAK, WHAT WOULD IT SAY? It’s okay to stand out in a crowd! LEARN MORE: WALKING ONE AND ONLY ON FACEBOOK
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MIKE STINNETT WOOD CARVER & PAINTER | OIL, ACRYLIC
Mike Stinnett was born with a love for the outdoors, and art is his way of expressing his appreciation for it. His mother encouraged his art and from an early age, he learned to fine-tune his skills by relentless trial and error.
anatomy of the subject first, then do my best to capture its likeness in wood or paint. Carving is very unforgiving. Once the wood has been removed, I can’t put it back, so I have to take it slowly, and carefully. I’m pleased with even small things that are often overlooked, like mossy rocks, micro habitats, little bugs and tiny mushrooms. These are the things that give
My inspiration comes from my great admiration of God’s creation. I get a lot of enjoyment from attempting to make a likeness of some of the wonderful creatures the Lord has made. The first obstacle in carving wood is to work with the
me inspiration. The clatter of the world destroys inspiration and creativity. Television and politics are distractions that get in the way, so I tossed the TV a long time ago. I like a quiet, simple life. Just me and my family.
wood’s own limitations and designing the piece around imperfections. Cracks can appear where they were not expected, the grain of wood can take a wrong turn that will weaken a piece, knots can sometimes be a problem. The next obstacle is to train my mind to understand the subject that I’m trying to portray. Whether it is painting or carving a three-dimensional piece, I need to study the
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IF YOUR ART COULD SPEAK, WHAT WOULD IT SAY? Slow down and enjoy the wonderful things that the Lord has made for us. LEARN MORE: WWW.ETSY.COM/SHOP/STINNETTSTUDIO & WWW.PATREON.COM
TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 80 ADVENTURE 82 LODGING 86 TRIP PLANNER 88
pg. 88 Mount Pisgah and Howard Buford Park are beloved locals hangouts in Eugene.
Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92
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travel spotlight
Climbing the (Church) Walls Hood River’s Brimstone Boulders brings new life to a very old building
Photos: Story Gorge/Lasting Light Photography
written by Nick Foot
Brimstone Boulders has transformed an old church in Hood River into a climbing gym.
BRIMSTONE BOULDERS IS Hood River’s first climbing gym. But what makes it likely the most special climbing gym in the state (and beyond)? Its backdrop. The gym is housed in the Old Downtown Hood River Church, built in 1896 as the Asbury M.E. Church and later added onto in the early 1910s. The church was decommissioned in 2013 and remained largely vacant. Conor Byrne and Jen Altschul met through a Seattle climbing gym and climbing has been an important part of their lives for years. They wanted to share it with the Hood River community. “We love climbing, and it felt like a great addition to this community,” Altschul said. “We needed something other than a bar or a restaurant that provided a healthy activity, for the community to gather, and form and strengthen our community when the weather outside doesn’t allow us to go outside and do what a lot of people moved here for.” As the pair looked for commercial real estate, they kept seeing the church pop up for rent on Craigslist. The space inspired them. “It’s a place you walk into and it already feels good to be in,” Altschul said. “How cool would it be to work within that set of constraints, and to turn it into a place that’s been a community gathering space for more than 100 years, and welcome people into it again and repurpose a gorgeous building, with a lot of character, that might not have otherwise stayed standing?” A previous owner had restored many of the systems, but the climbing gym is on the second story of the wood building, 80
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so there was a great deal of structural work to be done. The duo worked with a Portland design-and-build firm, Orange, to help with the process, as well as local engineers. Brimstone Boulders opened in January, then had to close in March before reopening this summer with COVID-19 precautions in place. The gym features bouldering, which means there are no ropes. Instead, the highest areas for climbing are about 15 feet in the air and there are thick pads on the ground for protection when you fall. That, Byrne said, lends itself to shorter, more challenging problems (which is what climbers call their routes) that are driven more by technique. Since reopening in accordance with state guidelines, Altschul and Byrne said they’re more focused than ever on access. “We continue to try to make this space accessible to all types of people,” Altschul said. “We have 2-year-olds coming in and climbing with their parents supporting their backs, and my 75-year-old father comes in and climbs regularly.” Byrne sees the need for community more than ever. “We’re still trying to create a welcoming space for every ability level, everyone from every walk of life,” he said. “And seeing people’s eyes light up when they come back in and get to be around people from a distance is really important.”
More Fun to Spare at Wildhorse Resort & Casino WITH ITS NEW FAMILY FUNPLEX, opening this fall, Wildhorse is a family destination to discover. Now the whole family can enjoy bowling fun, arcade play, children’s entertainment, movies, and more. The crown jewel of the new FunPlex is Quaking Aspens Lanes, a spacious 24-lane bowling center with eight separate boutique lanes for private rental. Two party rooms, adjacent to the boutique lanes, are perfect for hosting special events or business retreats. Let’s not forget, the bowling center features a full bar with drinks and snacks. Wildhorse made sure the kids can play games too, with an expanded state-of-the-art arcade. The arcade features over 30 new games and a prize redemption center filled with goodies the kids will love. A brand new food court houses three delicious dining options plus a sweet shop, including offshoots of popular tribal-owned local restaurants featuring fresh quality foods and delectable sweet treats. Located on the homelands of the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation at the base of the beautiful Blue Mountains, Wildhorse Resort & Casino makes the perfect getaway for families and friends, both near and far. Get ready to play and let the good times bowl! (800) 654-9453 I-84 in Pendleton www.wildhorseresort.com
THIS FALL, GET AWAY CLOSE TO HOME IN BEAUTIFUL
HOOD RIVER
Stay with us during your next visit — we are ready when you are.
Discover eclectic dining, charming shops and experiences not found anywhere else, all just an hour from Portland.
adventure
Adventure
Oregon’s Spooky Spots Hit the road for a ghost town tour written by Lauren Houston | illustration by Colin Andersen
FOR SOME, THE OLD and forgotten hold a special allure. Whenever I see an overgrown cemetery, I like to look for Oregon pioneer graves. Maybe it’s a bit morbid, but I like the idea of my current life connecting to the state’s past. This extends to ghost towns. The idea of a thriving community slowly dying out is sad, but it’s also compelling—what made people leave this place? How has the slow crawl of time changed the way this town looks? And mostly, who still lives here? And are they lying in wait somewhere? Like I said, slightly morbid. Blame that “Brady Bunch” episode, or maybe “Scooby-Doo!”
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Hardman, north of Spray, lived a brief life as a stagecoach stop. Today, it’s on the National Register of Historic Places.
Interactive mural by artist Alice Blaschke. Title: Buteo Jamaicensis, Red-Tailed Hawk For more murals visit corvallismurals.com.
Undiscovered trails. Undiscovered innovation. Undiscovered tastes.
Undiscovered
visitcorvallis.com/art
800.334.8118
VISIT
REDMOND OREGON
TOP 3 THINGS TO DO IN REDMOND THIS FALL: 1) EXPLORE REDMOND’S “HOPPING” BREW SCENE 2) HIKE ANY OF THE 250+ TRAILS WITHIN DRIVING DISTANCE OF REDMOND 3) DOCUMENT YOUR JOURNEY THROUGH REDMOND BY USING #VISITRDM
REQUEST YOUR F R E E G U I D E T O D AY ! 5 41 - 9 2 3 - 5191
WWW.VISITREDMONDOREGON.COM
Stumble upon fascinating public sculptures and dozens of colorful murals. Wander through a gallery or museum. Catch a show or concert. Come visit Corvallis and discover what you’ve been missing.
adventure
FROM LEFT Sumpter, in Eastern Oregon, is built around an old gold dredge. Buncom, in Southern Oregon, is a well-preserved gold rush town with a dedicated group of locals who celebrate it.
A couple years ago, my husband and I went on an ill-fated ghost town hunt through Oregon. We made a truly rookie mistake and trusted a sketchy web article—I should have known better. Nevertheless, the result was hours of driving outside the comfort of GoogleMaps and GPS, only to get to the end of a road and discover it didn’t cut through as we’d been sure it would. In one case, we inched up a very uneven dirt road for miles only to realize that the community (compound might have been a better term) at the top of the hill was decidedly not abandoned, just wanted to be left alone. If you’re interested in seeing some of Oregon’s abandoned past, I have some recommendations for you—from vetted sources. A few pieces of advice: have a real, honest-to-goodness paper map or atlas with you. Where you’re going, you will need maps, and you might not have cell service. Plan your route ahead of time, and bring along water, snacks and warm clothes just in case you pop a tire and end up stuck overnight somewhere you didn’t expect. Start with the tourist-friendly and partially open Shaniko, in Central Oregon. This city, right on Highway 97, was the “Wool Capital of the World” in the early 1900s before trains stopped traveling past and much of the city burned to the ground. Today, the population floats around 30. You’ll find a few businesses, a couple refurbished buildings and several more with the look of abandonment. Sumpter is another ghost town accessed with some ease that isn’t entirely abandoned. A little over a half hour west of Baker City, Sumpter is an old mining town built around a gold dredge. There’s a robust tourism industry in Sumpter, and the dredge can be toured—in a normal year, gold-panning demonstrations would be on the calendar and a visitors center would be open as well. You’ll find ice cream and some cool art for sale here, as well. Up the (paved) road from Sumpter is Granite, one of the few ghost towns my husband and I visited successfully on our mostly 84 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
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fruitless adventure. It’s another of the old mining towns that now stand sentry to a nearly forgotten way of life. The entry to the town is well-marked and there are a few old, abandoned buildings remaining, though there are also modern homes and people live here, so be courteous when traipsing around. Hardman, north of Spray, was not long for the inhabited world. It started as a stagecoach stop and still has lots of buildings to check out, including a lodge on the National Register of Historic Places. In Southern Oregon north of Grants Pass, you’ll find Golden, a state heritage site. This is, you guessed it, a former gold rush town which according to the state at its height had about 100 people living here in the 1800s. Today, four buildings remain—a church, a home, a shed and a building that used to house the post office and general store. The entire town is on the National Register of Historic Places, and there are interpretive signs throughout the town that allow you to learn a bit more about what happened here. A little more than an hour south is Buncom, another gold rush town that’s remarkably well-preserved. It’s uninhabited and features three buildings of what was once a thriving gold-mining camp. After the site was abandoned, it sat for decades in disrepair. In the 1990s, a local couple purchased the site and refurbished it with the help of others, establishing the Buncom Historical Society. Today, an annual festival honors the community. Finally, you might want to swing over to Jawbone Flats in the Opal Creek Wilderness. An hour’s drive and a hike up from Detroit, this is one of those old mining spots you have to see to believe. The 15-acre property has many buildings that date to the 1930s, as well as abandoned vehicles and mining equipment. During parts of the year the area is filled with kids participating in outdoor school, and it’s a popular spot for vacationing in the summer, as well as on hikes. But while it’s not truly abandoned, it’s a neat view into Oregon’s past.
adventure
ROOMS The resort’s layout is uniquely designed to accommodate nearly every privacy preference; if you like a little neighborly buzz or are traveling sans kids, book one of the Ranch House guest rooms or suites, and enjoy high-end linens and eco-friendly bath products, a gas fireplace, free high-speed wifi, Keurig coffee and tea makers, a thirty-second commute to the restaurant and exclusive access to the outdoor hot tub and fire pit. If the whole family’s in tow, Bandit included, opt for one of the sixty-five spacious, pet-friendly Sage Canyon Cabins that line the property, which offer up to four bedrooms, full kitchens, expansive decks, barbecues and private hot tubs.
FEATURES While the ranch’s robust social events calendar has been scaled back for the time being, there’s still plenty to keep everyone occupied. Enlist the concierge’s help in planning the day’s diversions, from a scavenger hunt around the ranch to a sunset picnic. A horseback ride with lively, knowledgeable longtime local guide and head wrangler Chris Buller is a must—for a special treat, ask him to coordinate an unforgettable ranch breakfast along the way, complete with campfire-cooked bacon, eggs and fry bread … and lots of piping hot cowboy coffee.
DINING The Ranch House restaurant is open and dishing up three squares a day (reservations required). For those who aren’t dining-room-ready yet, take out and delivery is available. Guests can also make use of the ranch’s innovative Farm-to-Cabin grocery delivery program, which takes online orders for locally sourced produce, dairy, meat and baked goods twice a week, then drops them at your cabin door. And for your immediate espresso, trail snack, pantry staple and local artisan goods needs, pop into the charming, smartly stocked General Store, a short stroll from the Ranch House.
AMENITIES With careful consideration for physical distancing requirements and strict hygiene measures, the ranch’s 17,000-square-foot Athletic Club, four pools and spas, and waterslide are up and splashing. Join a meditation or yoga class on the lawn overlooking the mighty Three Sisters peaks, book a round on the beautiful Brasada Canyons golf course, challenge your fellow cabinmates to a game of tennis, pickleball, basketball or volleyball, slip on your cycling shoes and join a livestreaming class on one of the new Peloton bikes, or hang up your gone fishin’ sign and hit one of the stocked ponds below the resort’s landmark Trestle Bridge.
lodging
FROM LEFT Brasada’s ranch setting soothes from the start. The Ranch House has suites, plus dining and great views. Inside, the Ranch House combines luxury and a rustic feel.
Lodging
Brasada Ranch written by Jen Stevenson IF YOUR IDEAL autumn getaway involves feeling like you’ve left civilization behind, while still enjoying the luxuries civilization affords—i.e., indoor plumbing, hot coffee, farm-totable restaurant fare, a sparkling outdoor swimming pool with a bright yellow water slide that will keep the kids occupied for hours—then point your four-wheeled steed due east into the Central Oregon sagebrush, and don’t stop until you’ve reached Brasada Ranch. A sanctuary even in the best of times, the nearly 2,000-acre ranch, located a half hour northeast of Bend, has adopted significant precautions to make stays both serene and safe. So while evenings spent elbow to elbow at the jovial Ranch House bar are still a merry memory, and the pool scene is less boisterous than usual, the new normal has its perks, like savory steak suppers and fresh local farm produce delivered to your cabin door, soulsoothing yoga classes on the lawn overlooking the Cascade Range’s stunning snow-capped Three Sisters peaks, and tranquil sunset hot tub happy hours on your private deck. The ranch’s tightly knit staff works around the clock to make sure guests’ every need is met, from setting up high-speed wifi and landline-equipped offices for those who can’t quite get away from it all, to coordinating horseback rides, tee times and visits to the resorts pools, fishing ponds and state-of-the-art athletic center. A new and expanded wellness center with an airy patio means daily yoga and Pilates classes to join, while miles of peaceful, scenic trails winding through the vast high desert property offer myriad hiking and biking opportunities. In the panoramic-view-wrapped Ranch House restaurant, executive chef Doug McFarland is ready to put some meat on your bones, in true ranch style. Greet the morning with a full plate of homemade buttermilk biscuits and country gravy, stop in at lunchtime for a thick ranch burger heaped with melted cheddar and caramelized onions, and if you’ve worked up a mean appetite after a day of exploring, the kitchen has hearty supper specials to match—think pulled pork macaroni and cheese, thick slabs of tender prime rib with rosemary-roasted potatoes and pan-seared halibut with trumpet mushrooms and basil aioli. If staying in seems more your pace, take advantage of your cabin’s fully outfitted kitchen and barbecue and grill up a feast washed down with a bottle of local wine from the ranch’s General Store. After the dishes are done, or not, wrap up in a Pendleton blanket, move the party out onto the deck and into the crisp juniper-scented air, and end another adventurepacked day with cold beers, hot chocolate and ooey gooey s’mores under the stars. 16986 SW BRASADA RANCH RD POWELL BUTTE www.brasada.com
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Alizah Akiko/Visit Corvallis
trip planner
Back to School
Checking out Oregon’s college towns, which are so much more than tailgating and lecture halls written by Sheila G. Miller
88 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
Downtown Corvallis has a classic Oregon feel.
2020
trip planner
Alison Smith/Visit Corvallis
I AM AN OREGONIAN by birth, but I fall into a small category—Oregonians with no ties to the University of Oregon or Oregon State University. I am neither a Beaver or a Duck. No one in my family is, either. Sure, I have friends who attended and graduated from these schools, but I’ve never been to either school’s football stadium. I attended exactly one frat party on UO’s campus during my youth—hopefully they’ve forgotten. So it was time, now well past my college days, that I check out these college towns with an adult’s more discerning eye.
Day
Madison Ave. Collective/Visit Corvallis
A good spot to start this college town tour is Corvallis, on the land grant university’s campus. Corvallis is, at its heart, a farming community. The university and the surrounding downtown seem to sprout right out of the ground, and then just as quickly the landscape returns to the rolling fields of our state’s agricultural delights. OSU has its roots in the 1860s, and in 1868 was granted 90,000 acres of land to support a land-grant agricultural college. Today, the school is renowned for its forestry and agricultural schools, as well as its marine biology, oceanography and mycology programs. The campus itself has that walkable, brick building feel that can sometimes get lost on a large state school campus. The old is mixed well with the new—check out Benton Hall, the oldest building on campus, to get a feel for the history. Then make sure to pop into the new student experience center, built in 2015— this colorful, modern building has more of a tech startup feel. There are a variety of new, up-to-date buildings that blend well with the older spots on campus, and the overall effect is one where parents and students alike find comfort in the “college experience.” When you’ve completed your tour, you’ll have earned a beer. Head to Sky High Brewing, a great brewpub in the heart of downtown. Here, you can dine al fresco on the rooftop and get views of the Coast Range. Bonus: the food and beer are a perfect way to refresh midday. Try the Haze of Our Lives IPA, if it’s on tap, and know that the menu includes a variety of vegan and gluten-free options. Once you’re refreshed, take a stroll through the downtown area, which is charming and has a little bit of everything— check out ReStyle, a floral shop with a variety of other interesting finds, and Second Glance, a great resale shop. While downtown, swing into Riverfront Commemorative Park. If you’re lucky, the farmers market will be on (Wednesdays and Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Visit Corvallis
CAMPUS • BEERS • WILDLIFE
FROM TOP OSU’s campus combines traditional brick edifices with high-tech new facilities. Sky High Brewing’s rooftop has great views. Corvallis’ farmers market is full of flavors.
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CORVALLIS + EUGENE, OREGON
trip planner
EAT Sky High Brewing www.skyhighbrewing.com Del Alma www.delalmarestaurant.com Fifth Street Public Market www.5stmarket.com Cornbread Cafe www.cornbreadcafe.com Beergarden www.beergardenme.com Novo Latin Table www.novolatintable.com
STAY Hyatt Place Eugene www.hyatt.com Inn at the Fifth www.innat5th.com EVEN Hotel Eugene www.ihg.com
PLAY Finley National Wildlife Refuge www.fws.gov/refuge/ william_l_finley McDonald and Dunn Research Forest www.cf.forestry.oregonstate.edu/ our-forests/mcdonald-anddunn-forests Mount Pisgah Arboretum www.mountpisgaharboretum.org King Estate www.kingestate.com Hayward Field www.hayward.uoregon.edu
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Fifth Street Public Market has local shops and restaurants. Cyclists enjoy Eugene’s Alton Baker Park. King Estate Winery has incredible vine views.
through November 25) and you can score produce straight from the fields. For an afternoon outdoor adventure, there are great trails through the McDonald and Dunn Research Forests, which are about fifteen minutes from campus and often used by students during the school year. The forests provide a welcome respite from crowds, and are great for biking or hiking. Or check out Peavy Arboretum, another OSU outdoor lab that has hiking trails appropriate for all. You may also want to continue your beer and cider tour with a stop at 2 Towns Ciderhouse, Block 15 Brewing, Mazama or Flat Tail. All are welcoming. Or you can continue your culinary tour at the city’s restaurants—del Alma has Latin American cuisine on the river, Cheesy Stuffed Burgers serves up, you guessed it, burgers from its food truck, and Squirrel’s Tavern is the old-school bar of your dreams. Or head out of town with stops at some of the nearby farms, and you’ll officially be in food heaven. 90 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
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Finish your day with a drive through the William L. Finley National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge was established in 1964 and serves as a wintering habitat for dusky Canada geese and is one of the last remaining wetlands in the Willamette Valley. A well-kept gravel road through the refuge allows for birdwatching and sometimes a lucky view of Roosevelt elk.
Day TRACKTOWN • WINE • HIPPIE CULTURE Much has been made over the years, primarily during the televised football rivalry game each season, about how close Corvallis and Eugene are to one another. It is true that Corvallis is fewer than 50 miles northwest of Eugene—but the towns feel distinct. While Corvallis holds tightly to its farming roots, Eugene splits its identity between UO’s high-tech campus and hot sports
Joni Kabana/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
Joni Kabana/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
Colin Morton/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
trip planner
facilities and the city’s hippie roots. Here you’ll find comfort vegan food and drumming circles very near to upscale dining and shopping. You’ll find intellectual opportunities on campus and tons of outdoor activities. Eugene’s got a little something for everyone. Start at UO’s campus, and make a beeline for the newly reimagined (and extensively renovated) Hayward Field. What was once a small track facility with wooden grandstands and a lot of history has been turned into a state-of-the-art, high-tech space with room for almost 25,000 spectators. In addition to the new track and field facility, the space houses Hayward Hal, a 4,000-square-foot museum dedicated to the historic UO track and field program, and to Bill Bowerman, the famous coach and co-founder of Nike whose workshop was in the original Hayward Field facilities. Hayward Field will be the site of the Olympic Trials, moved from spring 2020 to spring 2021. The rest of campus is pretty, too—there’s a nice mix of new and old, including the Phil and Penny Knight Campus for
Accelerating Scientific Impact, the first phase of which remains under construction and is due to be open in the fall of this year. Grab lunch at the Fifth Street Public Market, a neat shopping facility with a variety of restaurants, including the Provisions Market Hall and other stalls. Enjoy an easy lunch of oysters, ramen or a burger, or swing by Marche, an upscale French dining experience. You can eat in the courtyard, then browse the shops in the market, including the adorable Elephant’s Trunk Toy Company and a Pendleton Woolen Mills store. Then, make an afternoon pilgrimage to King Estate Winery, which is about 40 minutes outside of the city. The drive alone is worth it—beautiful rolling hills quickly replace the cityscape. But then you arrive at the estate, which sits grandly on a hillside on more than 1,000 acres. It’s a breathtakingly beautiful setting for a tasting (make sure to check out the website, as tastings were on hold as of July). You can also stay for dinner, as King Estate has a top-notch restaurant on site. There are also a few other great wineries nearby, including Iris Vineyards, which makes a wonderful pinot noir. You can make a day out of wine tasting along these country roads. Rest your head at the Inn at the Fifth, a boutique hotel near the Fifth Street Public Market, or slide up to the Oakway Center, a chic outdoor shopping area with a surprisingly nice selection of independent restaurants, big box stores and the Hyatt Place. It features a rooftop bar and well-appointed, comfortable rooms.
Day VEGAN FOOD • MOUNT PISGAH • WATERFALLS When it’s time to succumb to the magic of Eugene’s hippie roots, start your day at Cornbread Cafe. This spot specializes in vegan comfort food, and it’s really very good, even if you’re a dedicated carnivore. Check out the biscuits and gravy. Swing through Alton Baker Park for a morning walk along the Willamette River. This is a gathering place for all, but you’ll find solitude and peace here. I loved Beergarden for lunch—this gathering of food carts with a central building dedicated to drinks (and right next to a garden center, hence the name) has a college-town cool and a wide variety of food options. You’ll find meat and cheese boards, a great bowl of mac and cheese, and poke bowls, plus kombucha, local beer and cider. Then head out to locals favorite Mount Pisgah Arboretum, a 209-acre nature education facility just south of Eugene. There are 7 miles of trails, as well as interactive learning stations around the property that will help you understand the ecology of the area. It’s a great spot for a picnic, or just a lazy afternoon nap. If your route home takes you along Highway 126 toward Central Oregon, make sure to stop at Koosah and Sahalie falls. These two waterfalls along the McKenzie River, within a mile of one another, are an easy hike with a big and beautiful payoff. SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020
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northwest destination
On the Road Again
Exploring the Selkirk International Loop with a Little Pend Oreille side trip written by Kevin Max
THROUGH TWO STATES and two countries, the International Selkirk Loop is a 280-mile trek around the Selkirk Range spanning Washington and Idaho and up into British Columbia. I had planned to do the entire loop over a week—hiking in Washington’s Colville National Forest, running trails in Rossland, BC, relaxing in Ainsworth Hot Springs, taking in the Kaslo Jazz Etc Festival pumping out from a floating stage on Kootenay Lake, swimming Idaho’s Lake Pend Oreille, all while dining on the local fare and local beer. Well. In the age and responsibility of travel during this pandemic, I reeled it back a bit and decided to take in a side trip of the Loop called Little Pend Oreille. The Canadian border was closed, and would likely remain closed until a vaccine goes viral on this continent. The Little Pend Oreille sidetrip is an 80-mile ear off of the main Loop in Eastern Washington, and encompasses Colville and Kaniksu national forests as well as Little Pend Oreille National Wildlife Refuge. As always, I travel with a vague agenda and let life and chance fill in the rest. If it’s old-fashioned to hit the road merely to “see 92 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
2020
what I can see”, then I’m guilty. I brought gear to camp remotely, knowing this is always the best option when you’re in areas of intense natural beauty. I drove into Little Pend Oreille National Wildlife Refuge and threw open the shutters of awareness. There are wooded trails that lead out to marshes filled with reeds, topped with birds that birders salivate over and are more adept at identifying. If one were so inclined, one would find more than 200 species of birds here. During a short trail run, I saw chickadees, warblers and heard a woodpecker working for his dinner. The sense of isolation at the refuge was a gift of the mind. In a world teetering on the brink of something new and awful every day, Little Pend Oreille National Wildlife Refuge is something good and peaceful. Highway 20 runs along the northern boundary of the wildlife refuge. A little farther east on Highway 20 are the Crystal Falls—a powerful rush of the Little Pend Oreille River that blasts down a two-tier cliff, loses its ferocity and swims on in a serene stream. Shouldn’t we all?
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The Selkirk International Loop features stunning vistas of Lake Pend Oreille and other scenery. Downtown Colville is a charmer. Crystal Falls on the Colville-Tiger Road and the edge of Little Pend Oreille National Wildlife Refuge.
Colville is a little town with a nice hum and a classic downtown. In a small brick building with wood paneling, Acorn Saloon and Feeding Station has hearty breakfasts, half-pound burgers, homemade soups and cold beer. After a day outdoors, the Dungeon Burger with Swiss cheese and onions hit the spot. Every Friday at Acorn, it’s clam chowder and garlic toast. For the night, I found a camping spot at Lake Thomas, amid a series of four linked lakes. If I had a canoe, this would have been a good spot to put in and paddle serene stretches while watching bald eagles dive for dinner. The sixteen campsites are nicely set with a picnic table, a fire pit and a tent pad. We all have our vices. My nightcap is two fingers of Woodinville straight rye—four if I’m camping. Colville National Forest is home to many types of mammals. I tried not to conflate night noises with ravenous camper-eating beasts I know are out there as I lay down to sleep. Something big lay ahead of me tomorrow. In the morning, I packed up camp and drove east to the onebuilding town of Tiger. A 1912 building houses the Tiger store
SELKIRK INTERNATIONAL LOOP, WASHINGTON
Christa McDonald
northwest destination
EAT Acorn Saloon & Feeding Station www.facebook.com/ AcornSaloon
STAY Lake Leo Campground www.fs.usda.gov Lake Thomas Campground www.fs.usda.gov Lake Gillette Campground www.fs.usda.gov
PLAY Little Pend Oreille Natural Wildlife Refuge www.stateparks.com/ little_pend_oreille_ national_wildlife_refuge_ in_washington.html 49 Degrees North Mountain Resort www.ski49n.com
and museum. I re-upped my water supply and then headed south on a beautiful drive along Pend Oreille River to 49 Degrees North Mountain Resort for a scramble to the top of Chewelah Peak. It was a stunning morning and not too hot yet to run. In the parking lot, I changed into running shoes and a hydration backpack stuffed with energy bars and set off up the mountain. I push myself to that level where living is not a given and breathing a privilege. The view from the summit is stunning enough to inspire observations. If I had another week and there were no pandemic, this would have been just one of many stops on the Selkirk International Loop. If I had just one more day, I would have ditched Highway 20, headed east to the Nordman, Idaho area, to see what I could see at the Roosevelt Grove of Ancient Cedars, a stand with trees ages 800 to 3,000 years. I have questions. They may have answers.
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1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Ontario
Bend
Eugene Springfield
Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
22 La Tapatia
42 Wayfinding Academy
80
Brimstone Boulders
22 Hiyu Wine Farm
44 Downtown Riverfront Park
82
Sumpter Dredge
24 Ayers Creek Farm
46 Wood Identification & Screening Center
86
Brasada Ranch
88
Koosah Falls
92
Little Pend Oreille National Wildlife Refuge, Washington
30 The W.R. Mackenzie Residence 36 Littlewing Athletics
94 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
48 Spoogi 50 TRACE testing
2020
Pursuing excellence through fitness 61615 Athletic Club Drive
(541) 385-3062
Until Next Time Nighttime in the Gearhart Mountain Wilderness. photo by Kevin Clark/Erruki Images
The power tool for curious minds.
Full Spectrum News | opb.org 1859_slogans-2020.indd 2
7/28/20 9:08 AM
Continue for Special Insert
THE BEST OF
CENTRAL
OREGON 2020/2021
Why Central Oregon? WHAT IS IT ABOUT CENTRAL OREGON THAT MAKES IT THE PERFECT GETAWAY? The landscape here is what most people dream about when picturing the Pacific Northwest and mountains. The peaks of the Cascade Range—Mount Bachelor, Three Sisters, Broken Top, Mount Jefferson, Mount Washington, Three Fingered Jack—create a snow-capped seam throughout the region. Below them are thousands of hectares of national forest and high Alpine lakes feeding the pristine rivers that include the Deschutes, the Metolius, the Crooked and the Whychus. The Central Oregon high desert climate basks the region in sunshine for the vast majority of days each year. Humidity is negligible, and makes for warm dry days and cool nights that are comfortable for exploring trails during days and retiring with a craft beer or cocktail around a fire at night. The natural landscape and climate of Central Oregon opens up a world of possibilities. Hikers, trail runners and mountain bikers hit the hundreds of trails from Jefferson Wilderness to the Ochoco National Forest and Deschutes National Forest. For families looking for more laidback options, strolling the shops of the Old
Mill District or our classic downtowns are favorites among visitors. The lakes and rivers are the playground for boaters, anglers, floaters and standup paddlers. The warm and dry weather allows for ideal golf conditions during the summer and fall. The elevation of Central Oregon provides for deep mountain snow every winter for Alpine and Nordic skiing as well as fat-tire snow biking. Though Central Oregon enjoys all of the benefits of being insulated from the world by huge national forests, our dining scene is creative and cosmopolitan. Star chefs from around the world have come to the region to make their mark with ingredients sourced locally to create dishes admired globally. Probably the top attraction of Central Oregon is the Central Oregon lifestyle. The birthplace of the craft beer industry, Bend and Central Oregon have more than 30 innovative breweries. We believe in being polite on the trails, treating everyone with respect and following best practices for staying safe and acknowledging the safety of others. We work hard and play hard. We’re thankful for the resources in Central Oregon that allow us to do both and thrive. Then we celebrate together at the end of the day with the work of a local craft brewer. Enjoy!
INSIDE ITINERARIES There's a perfect Central Oregon day for every type of traveler. 03 First-timers 04 Outdoors 06 Dining 07 Golf 08 Kids
ADVENTURE GUIDE Check out our picks for getting the most out of Central Oregon. 09 Lodging, Resorts & Spas 10 Eat & Drink 10 Outdoors 11 Shopping 11 Arts & Culture
A publication of Statehood Media with Visit Central Oregon. For more information about Visit Central Oregon or to become a member, call 800.800.8334, visit us online at visitcentraloregon.com, or stop in to the Regional Visitor Center, located at 57100 Beaver Drive, Bldg 6, Suite 130, P.O. Box 4489, Sunriver, OR 97707. Join our social media community and share your experiences with us at #visitcentraloregon. Facebook: www.facebook.com/visitcentraloregon Twitter: @VisitCentralOR Instagram: @visitcentraloregon
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GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 2020/2021
www.visitcentraloregon.com
First-Timers
ITINERARIES
Smith Rock is an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise and a climbing mecca.
IT’S YOUR FIRST TIME IN CENTRAL OREGON? Lucky you! You get to explore one of the Pacific Northwest’s premier outdoor wonderlands and indulge with innovative food and drink, and luxury lodging. For a first visit, be sure to stay at one of Central Oregon’s top destination resorts—Sunriver and Black Butte Ranch each have a storied history spanning decades and plenty of family-friendly options, while Tetherow is a sleek option right on the edge of Bend and at the door to the Deschutes National Forest. Or go farther afield to Pronghorn Resort, which accurately describes itself as “living well, perfected.” Once you’ve chosen your accommodations, start checking off Central Oregon bucket-list items. If you’re a beer buff, take a guided tour at Deschutes Brewery to learn more about how the craft beer scene got its start in Central Oregon, then visit a few
www.visitcentraloregon.com
of the city’s two dozen breweries. If you’re more of an outdoor enthusiast, don’t miss a trip to Smith Rock State Park north of Redmond, a climber’s and hiker’s paradise with impressive rock faces and the gorgeous Crooked River meandering through. Rent a mountain bike and find dozens of trails in the forests surrounding Bend, or get away from the crowds and head east to the Ochocos, which have rewarding views and great trails ready for a variety of riders. Experience a waterfall or two by hiking at Tumalo Falls just outside Bend or Steelhead Falls near Crooked River Ranch. If you’re more of a city kid, stick around Bend and stroll the
Deschutes River, making sure to stop first at the man-made wave where surfers challenge themselves, and then into Drake Park to admire the iconic Mirror Pond. Swing through the Old Mill District in Bend, which was once several working mills along the river and is now an upscale shopping center. Finally, enjoy the reward that comes at the end of a long day of adventure. Central Oregon is home to a variety of food cart pods that allow everyone to find a favorite dish. Try the original food cart pod, The Lot in Bend, or The Bite in Tumalo, about 10 minutes north of town. Fuel up, because you’ve only scratched the surface of Central Oregon’s wonders.
Stroll past the Deschutes River and public art in the Old Mill District. Tumalo Falls is one of many waterfalls in the region.
2020/2021 GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON
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Outdoors TO GET OUTDOORS is wonderful. To be outdoors in Central Oregon is sublime. Often called an “outdoor mecca,” Central Oregon is a place of mountains and rivers, of lava and lakes. The outdoor recreational opportunities are almost limitless. For any itinerary (including with kids), beautiful hiking destinations such as Lava Lands, Newberry National Volcanic Monument and Smith Rock State Park make for great daily outings. Pack a HydroFlask of water and locally made Picky Bars for trail fare and walk along the stunning features created by Central Oregon’s volcanic heritage. For something with a little more built-in thrill, head up to the year-round adventure scene of Mt. Bachelor for ziplining or its 13-plus miles of downhill biking for all ages and levels. For a laid-back day on bikes, try the Madras Mountain Views Scenic Bikeway near Lake Billy Chinook, where over 29 moderate miles, you can see the majestic peaks of Mount Jefferson, Mount Hood, Broken Top, The Three Sisters and more. For a fun mini-outing, rent bikes in Sunriver and hop on its paved trail network, where you’re never far from coffee, ice cream or craft beer. The Village at Sunriver is a basket of options for dine-in or take-out food, drink and picnic provisions. For those who like to be in the water, know that you are in good
ITINERARIES FOR ANY ITINERARY (INCLUDING WITH KIDS), BEAUTIFUL HIKING DESTINATIONS SUCH AS LAVA LANDS, NEWBERRY NATIONAL VOLCANIC MONUMENT AND SMITH ROCK STATE PARK MAKE FOR GREAT DAILY OUTINGS.
company. The Deschutes, Crooked and Fall rivers are all known for their world-class fly-fishing. Get your fishing license online at www.myodfw.com, and pick up any gear or insight from Fly & Field or The Patient Angler in Bend, or Littleleaf Guide Service in Warm Springs. Take a thermos of coffee from one of Central Oregon’s roasters, a sandwich from Nancy P’s Bakery, a cooler with your favorite local beer or cider and a sense of wonder out into Central Oregon’s pristine waters. Sun’s out? SUPs are out, too. There are few places that feel so good as standup paddling on the Deschutes as it runs past the Old Mill District. You can rent water vessels at Tumalo Creek Kayak & Canoe, which is located at a good put-in along the Deschutes River. Farther up Century Drive and into the Cascade Lakes region, a more stunning and remote SUP experience unfolds at Sparks Lake, Todd Lake and Elk Lake, to name a few. Don’t forget that the Old Mill District is also home to a riverside off-leash dog park, where you can exercise and socialize your pup in a beautiful setting.
TOP Take a hike through what seems like a moonscape in the Newberry National Volcanic Monument. BOTTOM, FROM LEFT SUPs are a great way to see the Cascade Lakes area. Madras Mountain Views Scenic Bikeway is a laid-back 29-mile route full of views. Fly-fishing along the Deschutes, Fall and Crooked rivers is a great social distancing activity. Mt. Bachelor’s summer season includes ziplining and downhill mountain biking (photo: Courtesy of Mt. Bachelor).
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GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 2020/2021
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ITINERARIES
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2020/2021 GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON
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Dining
ITINERARIES
OVER THE PAST DECADE, Central Oregon has grown its culinary desert into a fertile plot of culinary creativity. The first trend that stands out in this environment is the sheer number of breweries. With more than 30 breweries in Central Oregon, there are many opportunities to pair some of the most innovative beer with updated pub grub in a kid-friendly (and, in many cases, dog-friendly) venue.
AT TOP, FROM LEFT Sisters Coffee Company’s pastries and drinks are a great way to start the day. Boss Rambler Beer Club offers a varied taplist. Grab a beer and a table at Wild Ride Brewing in Redmond, then pick an on-site food cart for your favorite flavor.
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Bend was built on the bounty of hops and malt, but mostly hops. With the opening of the grandfather of craft brewing, Deschutes Brewery, in 1988, the floodgates opened. Home brewers listened and learned and then opened their own breweries. Today, you can give blockby-block driving directions with breweries as landmarks. For a walking tour, downtown Bend has Deschutes Brewery, Bend Brewing Company, Silver Moon Brewing and McMenamins Old St. Francis School. Boss Rambler Beer Club is the newest scene for beer lovers on the west side. Its clean, open-air design goes well with its beer selection. Most of these brewpubs have full menus and full bars. Sunriver has the award-winning Sunriver Brewing, which is a welcome
GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 2020/2021
sight after a day of golf or biking the Sunriver trails. Redmond has an emerging brewery scene, too. Wild Ride Brewing in downtown Redmond has food carts on site, and Porter Brewing Co. serves unfiltered, unpasteurized British-style bitter from the manually pumped cask and barrel system that is standard for British ales. Let’s say that you want to take it up a notch in Central Oregon dining—there are many fine-dining options. In Sisters, a good day would start at Sisters Coffee Company with your favorite morning drink, then out to the Peterson Ridge trails for a hearty mountain bike ride, returning in the evening for an upscale meal at The Porch for a Mandarin orange caesar or sweet potato tacos.
In Bend, a wholesome itinerary might begin by hiking the Deschutes River Loop ending at the Old Mill for a bit of shopping and a cocktail at 10 Below at The Oxford Hotel. Then step out to Zydeco Kitchen + Lounge for an upscale Northwest take on Southern cuisine or at Bos Taurus for a chic boutique of a steakhouse’s take on filet mignon, Yukon Gold potato puree and a cherry wood smoked Manhattan. In Redmond, this day may look like a hike at the bucolic Smith Rock State Park, then retreating to the cool new SCP Hotel in Redmond for rooftop small bites and handmade cocktails such as the Ray of Sunshine with Crater Lake vodka, peach puree and sparkling wine. This rooftop view of the snowcapped Cascades is yet more stunning at sunset with a Ray of Sunshine in hand. Restaurants that cater nicely to vegetarians are The Open Door in Sisters, Active Culture in Bend’s historic neighborhood, the fashionable 5 Fusion in downtown Bend, Miyagi Ramen in the Box Factory in the Old Mill District and Kanpai sushi on Newport Avenue on Bend’s west side. As Central Oregon has grown, so too has its range of culinary cultures. Seek the international cuisine that you’re craving: Thai at Wild Rose, Vietnamese at Pho Viet Cafe, Middle Eastern at Kebaba, PanAsian at Spork, Latin-American flavors at Barrio, German sausage at pflücke in Northwest Crossing, or curries at June’s Asian Kitchen in Sisters.
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Golf PERHAPS YOU THINK of year-round summer when you think of golf meccas. Time to re-evaluate. Central Oregon courses have the variety and the beauty to keep you visiting again and again. There are more than thirty courses throughout Central Oregon, and three have been named Golf Digest Top 100 courses—Crosswater in Sunriver, and Tetherow and Pronghorn in Bend. With forecasts filled with sunshine year round, you can hit the links throughout the seasons. You have options when you travel to Central Oregon for a golf weekend, but we recommend choosing a resort and designing your stay around the resort courses. Sunriver, for example, has three courses and a family-friendly nine-hole course. Warm up with a round on Meadows, a John Fought course with seven holes on the water. Then try your drive at Woodlands, which is tucked away among stands of Ponderosa and lodgepole pines. Finish your tour of Sunriver courses on Crosswater, which has won multiple national design awards and once served as the site of the Jeld-Wen Tra-
dition, a PGA Senior Tour event. When you’re golfed out, check to see whether the Sunriver Homeowners Aquatic and Recreation Center (SHARC) is open and, if possible, soak in the lazy river. Tetherow, close to the heart of Bend, has one course but it’s a doozy. Designed by David McLay Kidd, this challenging Scottish links-style course offers incredible views of the Cascades, long fast-rolling fairways and plenty of high desert scrub brush. Rent a GolfBoard for an added challenge for your eighteen holes, then finish up at one of the best pubs in town—The Row, which has Scotch eggs, epic burgers and
a great taplist, plus a stunning view of the course. Just a little northwest of Sisters, Black Butte Ranch is a gorgeous outlier, with two courses that meander through Aspen groves and certainly offer the best up-close views of the Cascades. Big Meadow was renovated in 2012, allowing golfers new challenges. New in 2020, Black Butte has opened the Little Meadow Putting Course that is perfect for families who are introducing kids to the sport. The putting course, near Big Meadow, was designed by John Fought and has twelve holes ranging from 45 to 105 feet.
Pronghorn’s two courses come from big names. The Jack Nicklaus Signature course is a par 72 public course that features lava rock ridges and traditional putting greens, while the Tom Fazio-designed course is a challenging par 72 with a variety of water features and tons of rocks and juniper trees. The course includes the eighth hole, with a 45-foot canyon and exposed lava tube. You won’t forget for one minute that you’re in Central Oregon.
Sunriver Resort has multiple award-winning courses to keep every level of golfer happy.
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2020/2021 GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON
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Kids
ITINERARIES
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Central Oregon is a playground that engages the wonder of all ages. Climbers young and old flock to Smith Rock State Park. The Oregon Observatory at the Sunriver Nature Center has high-powered telescopes and trained astronomers. The otters and birds of prey are always popular at the High Desert Museum.
CENTRAL OREGON KIDS are the first kids in and the last kids out of the woods. Surrounded by national forests, there are a lifetime of new trails to hike, run and mountain bike away from the anxiety of roads. This is no place for kids to be a bump on a log. The Lair in Phil’s Trail network is a hotspot for kids who like to get big air in a natural free ride park. Just up Marvin’s Garden from Phil’s Trailhead, The Lair has small jumps to huge 20-footers. Ride it only when the trails are dry to preserve it. There is an endless supply of climbing routes for every level at Smith Rock State Park. There are also many climbing guides who can outfit and teach all levels of climbers—from beginner to advanced climbers who just want the local take on the more challenging routes. Smith Rock Climbing School and Chockstone Climbing Guides both have experienced and certified climbing
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guides to help you get the most out of your big wall experience. In summer and fall, families can take a lazy float of the Deschutes from a starting place at the Park and Float, near McKay Park in the Old Mill District to downtown’s Mirror Pond. But bring your own canoe, standup paddle board or inflatable. The Park and Float shuttle, however, is not operating through the end of the year. For kids and adults, raft trips from hours-long to days-long are thrilling ways to come together as a family and cool off at the same time. Big Eddy is one nearby rapid on the Deschutes and can be experienced from
GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 2020/2021
start to finish over the course of a few hours. Get a little wilder by doing an all-day raft trip on the Lower Deschutes from Maupin. Sun Country Tours, High Desert River Outfitters, Deschutes River Adventures and more guide services are here to help you make the most of the experience. Mt. Bachelor is, itself, a playground for kids of all ages. In summer months, downhill biking and zip lining are adrenaline rushes. In the winter, it’s all about hucking big air in one of a variety of terrain parks with different-sized features for snowboarders and free skiers. For the younger kids, the tubing park is a blast. The newly renovated lodges of Mt. Bachelor are a great place for hot chocolate and hotty toddies. For down time, hit the Sisters Movie House, a modern theater showing first-run films and housed in a modern red barn. The High Desert Museum on south Highway 97 in Bend is a good way for young kids to learn
about the natural and cultural world of Central Oregon. The otters and birds of prey are always a favorite of the museum’s youngest visitors. Likewise, the Museum at Warm Springs is a regional gem. The history of the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs is the history of our land. Storytelling through art and exhibits are colorful and interactive ways for kids to learn the untold stories of this land. Finally, the Oregon Observatory at the Sunriver Nature Center opens the night skies to eager explorers during two hourlong sessions, which begin at 9 p.m. and 10.30 p.m. Be sure to make a reservation at www.snco. org/experiences. Trained astronomers on staff take kids out of this world and light years aways to fascinating stars, planets and meteor showers. Parents will love the outdoors science lesson and the awe in their kids’ faces when they are able to see Saturn through one of the center’s high-powered telescopes.
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Resorts
Lodging
BLACK BUTTE RANCH
HOUSE ON METOLIUS
13899 Bishops Cap, Sisters 866.901.2961 www.blackbutteranch.com
BRASADA
16986 SW Brasada Ranch Road, Powell Butte 844.234.9112 www.brasada.com
EAGLE CREST RESORT 1522 Cline Falls Road, Redmond 855.682.4786 www.eagle-crest.com
FIVEPINE LODGE
1021 Desperado Trail, Sisters 541.549.5900 www.fivepinelodge.com
MOUNT BACHELOR VILLAGE RESORT
19717 Mt. Bachelor Drive, Bend 888.752.2220 www.mtbachelorvillage.com
NF-980, Camp Sherman 541.595.6620 www.metolius.com
IMPERIAL RIVER COMPANY HOTEL
304 Bakeoven Road, Maupin 541.395.2404 www.deschutesriver.com
LOGE BEND
19221 SW Century Drive, Bend 541.306.3111 www.logecamps.com/bend-or
THE OXFORD HOTEL
10 NW Minnesota Ave., Bend 541.382.8436 www.oxfordhotelbend.com
RIVERHOUSE ON THE DESCHUTES
3075 N Highway 97, Bend 541.639.3481 www.riverhouse.com
RUSTLER’S INN
JINSEI SPA
SCP HOTEL REDMOND
SAGE SPRINGS SPA AT SUNRIVER RESORT
960 NW 3rd Street, Prineville 541.447.4185 www.rustlersinn.com 521 SW 6th Street, Redmond 541.508.7600 www.scphotel.com/redmond
SUTTLE LODGE & BOATHOUSE
13300 U.S. Highway 20, Sisters 541.638.7001 www.thesuttlelodge.com
Spas
118 NW Newport Ave., Bend 541.383.8282 www.jinseispa.com
17600 Center Drive, Sunriver 541.593.7891 www.destinationhotels.com/ sunriver-resort/spa
SHIBUI SPA
720 S Buckaroo Trail, Sisters 541.549.6164 www.shibuispa.com
THE SPA AT EAGLE CREST
ANJOU SPA
1835 NW Pence Lane, Suite 120, Bend 541.241.8454 www.anjouspa.com
FACE TO FACE DAY SPA
809 NW Wall Street, Bend 541.389.2519 www.bendspa.com
8100 Coopers Hawk Drive, Redmond 541.923.9647 www.eagle-crest.com/sparedmond-oregon
SPA AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH 13695 Hawks Beard, Sisters 541.595.5878 www.blackbutteranch.com/ to-do/spa
PRONGHORN RESORT
65600 Pronghorn Club Drive, Bend 866.320.5024 www.pronghornresort.com
SUNRIVER RESORT
17600 Center Drive, Sunriver 855.420.8206 www.destinationhotels.com/ sunriver-resort
TETHEROW
61240 Skyline Ranch Road, Bend 844.431.9701 www.tetherow.com
IMPERIAL RIVER COMPANY HOTEL | MAUPIN
Adventure Guide LODGING, RESORTS & SPAS
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Eat & Drink 5 FUSION & SUSHI BAR
821 NW Wall Street, #100, Bend 541.323.2328 www.5fusion.com
BARNEY PRINE’S STEAKHOUSE & SALOON
389 NW 4th Street, Prineville 541.447.3333 www.barneyprines.com
BEND BREWING CO.
1019 NW Brooks Street, Bend 541.383.1599 www.bendbrewingco.com
BENDISTILLERY
CAFE SINTRA SUNRIVER
57031 Ponderosa Road, Sunriver 541.593.1222 www.cafesintrasunriver.com
DESCHUTES BREWERY
1044 NW Bond Street, Bend 541.382.9242 www.deschutesbrewery.com
FAITH, HOPE & CHARITY VINEYARDS
70450 NW Lower Valley Drive, Terrebonne 541.526.5075 www.faithhopeandcharity events.com
HOLA! OLD MILL
19330 Pinehurst Road, Bend 541.318.0200 www.craterlakespirits.com
680 SW Powerhouse Drive, Bend 541.647.2711 www.holabend.com
BONTA NATURAL ARTISAN GELATO
MADALINE’S GRILL & STEAKHOUSE
920 NW Bond Street, #108, Bend 541.306.6606 www.bontagelato.com
2414 S Highway 97, Redmond 541.548.9964 www.madalinesredmond.com
MARAGAS WINERY
15523 Highway 97, Culver 541.546.5464 www.maragaswinery.com
OCHOCO BREWING CO.
380 N Main Street, Prineville 541.233.0883 www.ochocobrewing.com
SUNRIVER BREWING — SUNRIVER PUB
57100 Beaver Drive, Bldg 4, Sunriver 541.593.3007 www.sunriverbrewing company.com
TERREBONNE DEPOT
400 NW Smith Rock Way, Terrebonne 541.527.4339 www.terrebonnedepot restaurant.com
THE BITE TUMALO
19860 7th Street, Tumalo 541.610.6457 www.thebitetumalo.com
THE ROW AT TETHEROW
61240 Skyline Ranch Road, Bend 541.388.2582 www.tetherow.com
THREE CREEKS BREWING
721 S Desperado Court, Sisters 541.549.1963 www.threecreeksbrewing.com
WILD RIDE BREWING
332 SW 5th Street, Redmond 541.516.8544 www.wildridebrew.com
ZYDECO KITCHEN + COCKTAILS
919 NW Bond Street, Bend 541.312.2899 www.zydecokitchen.com
OCHOCO BREWING CO. | PRINEVILLE
Outdoors COVE PALISADES RESORT & MARINA
SW Marina Drive, Culver 541.546.9999 www.covepalisadesresort.com
DEE WRIGHT OBSERVATORY
McKenzie Highway, Blue River 800.832.1355 www.fs.usda.gov/visit/ destination/dee-wrightobservatory
ELK LAKE RESORT & MARINA 60000 SW Century Drive, Bend 541.480.7378 www.elklakeresort.net
HOODOO SKI AREA
27400 Big Lake Road, Sisters 541.822.3799 www.skihoodoo.com
IMPERIAL RIVER COMPANY
304 Bakeoven Road, Maupin 541.395.2404 www.deschutesriver.com
LAVA LANDS VISITOR CENTER 58201 U.S. Highway 97, Bend 541.383.5300 www.fs.usda.gov
MT. BACHELOR
13000 SW Century Drive, Bend 541.382.1709 www.mtbachelor.com
PAULINA PLUNGE
53750 U.S. Highway 97, La Pine 541.389.0562 www.paulinaplunge.com
SMITH ROCK STATE PARK NE Crooked River Drive, Terrebonne 800.551.6949 www.oregonstateparks.org
Adventure Guide EAT & DRINK | OUTDOORS
10 GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 2020/2021
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Shopping
DESCHUTES HISTORICAL MUSEUM
129 NW Idaho Ave., Bend 541.389.1813 www.deschuteshistory.org
BALDWIN’S CUSTOM HAT & BOOT CO.
18430 Fadjur Lane, Sisters 541.610.9978 www.baldwinhats.com
ERICKSON AIRCRAFT COLLECTION
2408 NW Berg Drive, Madras 541.460.5065 www.ericksoncollection.com
BEYOND THE RANCH ANTIQUES
339 SW Evergreen Ave., Redmond 541.279.4867 www.beyond-the-ranch.com
FORT ROCK HOMESTEAD VILLAGE MUSEUM 64696 Fort Rock Road, Fort Rock 541.576.2251 www.fortrockoregon.com
CASCADE COTTONS
909 NW Wall Street, Bend 541.306.6071 www.cascadecottons.com
HIGH DESERT MUSEUM
59800 U.S. Highway 97, Bend 541.382.4754 www.highdesertmuseum.org
COWGIRL CASH
924 NW Brook Street, Bend 541.678.5162 www.cowgirlcashbend.com
TOWER THEATRE | BEND
LES SCHWAB AMPHITHEATER
DESPERADO BOUTIQUE
330 SW Powerhouse Drive, Bend 541.749.9980 www.desperadoboutique.com
THE FLY FISHER’S PLACE 151 W Main Street, Sisters 541.549.3474 www.flyfishersplace.com
GINGER’S KITCHENWARE
375 SW Powerhouse Drive, Suite 120, Bend 541.617.0312 www.gingerskitchenware.com
JOHN PAUL DESIGNS
1006 NW Bond Street, Bend 541.318.5645 www.johnpauldesigns.com
LIVE LAUGH LOVE ART
57100 Beaver Drive, #120, Sunriver 541.797.8410 www.livelaughloveart sunriver.com
NEWPORT AVENUE MARKET
1121 NW Newport Ave., Bend 541.382.3940 www.newportavemarket.com
OLD MILL DISTRICT
450 SW Powerhouse Drive, Bend 541.312.0131 www.oldmilldistrict.com
PRINEVILLE MEN’S WEAR
231 N Main Street, Prineville 541.447.6580 www.prinevillemenswear.com
ROUNDABOUT BOOKS
900 NW Mount Washington Drive, #110, Bend 541.306.6564 www.roundabout bookshop.com
SAXON’S FINE JEWELERS
360 SW Powerhouse Drive, Bend 541.389.6655 www.saxonsfinejewelers.com
STITCHIN’ POST
311 W Cascade Ave., Sisters 541.549.6061 www.stitchinpost.com
Arts & Culture BENDFILM
344 SW Shevlin Hixon Drive, Bend 541.318.8457 www.bendconcerts.com
MUSEUM AT WARM SPRINGS 2189 U.S. Highway 26, Warm Springs 541.553.3331 www.museumat warmsprings.org
SISTERS MOVIE HOUSE
720 S Desperado Court, Sisters 541.549.8800 www.sistersmoviehouse.com
1000 NW Wall Street, Suite 240, Bend 541.388.3378 www.bendfilm.org
TOWER THEATRE
DESCHUTES COUNTY FAIR & EXPO CENTER
VOLCANIC THEATRE PUB
3800 SW, SE Airport Way, Redmond 541.548.2711 www.expo.deschutes.org
835 NW Wall Street, Bend 541.317.0700 www.towertheatre.org 70 SW Century Drive, Bend 541.323.1881 www.volcanictheatre.com
Adventure Guide SHOPPING | ARTS & CULTURE
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2020/2021 GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 11
