TRIP PLANNER: METHOW VALLEY PG. 72
Beautiful Backyard Workspaces
Kayaking for Beginners
Raspberry Guajillo Chili Hot Sauce
O P E N S P A C E S WASHINGTON’S BEST PLACES TO AVOID THE CROWDS
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Find your way to Spokane, with room to roam and natural beauty to explore. We invite you to adventure responsibly. CreativeByNature.net
Berry Nice photography by Reva Keller Sidhu Farms, in Puyallup, is truly a family affair— nine family members work in the business. The family purchased the property in 1997 with an eye toward building on it—but the raspberries already there were so tasty, the Sidhus decided to change course. Lucky us—today, Sidhu Farms sells all kinds of berries at farmers markets around the state. (pg. 20)
Chet Sidhu at Sidhu Farms in Puyallup. Sidhu holds a carton of fresh raspberries from the farm.
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58
Rising to the Challenge
For the Birds
When COVID-19 changed the face of our communities this year, plenty of people were ready to throw in the towel. But others saw an opportunity to help out—here are some of their stories.
A Boeing engineer took a year off work to travel the state seeking birds and their habitats. Here, she shares some of her favorites, as well as the stories behind the photos.
written by Sheila G. Miller
photography by Jen McKeirnan
46 Stand Out From the Crowd You want to get away, but not just from the home you’ve been cooped up in—away from the crowds, too. We found six spots around the state that will have you feeling alone, in the best way possible. written by Mike G. Christian
FEATURES AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020 • volume 21
The White Salmon River is a great place for social distancing and adventure. (photo: Tyler Roemer)
DEPARTMENTS
LIVE 12 SAY WA?
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020 • volume 21
Bence Vekassy/International Canoe Federation
32
24
12
Find your inner child with music from Caspar Babypants, then read A Flicker of Courage, a middle-grades book that will transport you right out of your stay-athome order.
17 FOOD + DRINK
Breweries need our help to survive the pandemic-based recession, so get to drinking. Then grab all the necessities for a picnic and head into the great unknown.
20 FARM TO TABLE
Sidhu Farms’ red raspberries (and all its other berries) are a popular addition to every summer meal. Get ideas for how to add the sweet treats to your table.
26 HOME + DESIGN
Get ready for stay-at-home workspace envy with these two backyard studios. Plus, learn how to add one to your space.
32 MIND + BODY
Nevin Harrison was all set to go to the Olympics this summer as a sprint canoeist. She’ll have to wait one more year—which just means more time to practice.
34 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Urban ArtWorks in Seattle gives young people at risk a connection to the art world—and beautifies the city.
THINK 38 STARTUP
Spokane’s Share Farm connects farmers market vendors with consumers, year round.
40 WHAT’S GOING UP
While coronavirus shut down campuses around the world, Washington universities continue to expand.
41 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
Jen McKeirnan took a year off to search for bird species around Washington—and thanks to her website, we all benefit from her hard work.
42 MY WORKSPACE Fire & Vine Hospitality
Ryan McCulloch holds a Ph.D. in biomedical engineering and is a professor at Gonzaga University, but he has an artistic side, too—just look at the furniture he builds.
44 GAME CHANGER
Thanks in part to a federal grant, groups around Washington are passing on Native food traditions to the next generation.
8 9 78 80
Editor’s Letter 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time
EXPLORE 66 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
The Monarch Sculpture Park, south of Olympia, has more than 100 sculptures on display in a gorgeous outdoor setting.
68 ADVENTURE
Social distance in style by taking to the water. Lake or river, kayaking is the perfect activity.
70 LODGING
The Comforts of Whidbey combines luxury of a bed and breakfast with the joys of wine tasting, all on site.
72 TRIP PLANNER COVER
photo by James Harnois North Cascades National Park (see Stand Out From the Crowd, pg. 46)
The Methow Valley is great in the winter, but don’t sleep on its snow-free seasons—hiking, biking, food and drink abound.
75 NORTHWEST DESTINATION
Road trips are the current flavor of travel, and all four corners of Oregon beckon with rebellious history.
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CONTRIBUTORS
REVA KELLER Photographer Farm to Table
MELISSA DALTON Writer Home + Design
SHEILA G. MILLER Writer Rising to the Challenge
EMILY JOAN GREENE Photographer Startup
I’m often shooting in restaurants, so this assignment was a refreshing way to return to food at its origin. Chet Sidhu and his family were generous and welcoming, and we spent a couple of hours shooting (and eating!) delicious raspberries. I left feeling inspired by their decades-long dedication to the farm, and appreciative of how much work it takes to grow something that’s so easy to take for granted. (pg. 20)
Backyard studios have always been an opportunity to retreat from the bustle of the family home and delve deep into work or creative pursuits. With the pandemic changing how we get our work done, a room to call one’s own seems more vital than ever. I visited (remotely) with two architects to get inspired by how they designed studios for themselves. (pg. 26)
I ascribe to the grand Mister Rogers ideal of looking for the helpers when something is scary or uncertain. The science of COVID-19 is out of my depth, and that can be nerve-wracking. Speaking to people who looked at the pandemic and asked, ‘How can I help?’ has been a soothing balm, and it renews my faith in the world. (pg. 52)
After journalism school, I started interning as a photographer at a weekly news publication. I loved the restaurant and bar assignments the most, as I was new to Portland and it helped me explore the local scene. Those assignments ultimately led me to focus my work on food and beverage, and I still have just as much fun doing it! (pg. 38)
6 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
EDITOR Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
OFFICE MANAGER
DIRECTOR OF SALES
SALES ASSISTANT
Aaron Opsahl Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Elijah Aikens
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Mike G. Christian, Melissa Dalton, Lee Lewis Husk, Brian Johnson, Ginger Smith, Cara Strickland, Kate Sweeney, Corinne Whiting
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Alan W. Abramowitz, Emily Joan Greene, Art Grice, James Harnois, Reva Keller, Jen McKeirnan, Tyler Roemer, Mark Woods
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AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 7
FROM THE EDITOR FIRST, SOME STRONG MEDICINE. The only way we as a community, as a state, as a country get back to a normal run of life is by all doing our part for the good of the whole. Viruses don’t care much for political affiliation. They take an impartial view on fashion. But viruses do love it when we’re irresponsibly social. Everything you see and read here is fiction until we all fight this like a war in which we all have a role to overcome the enemy. Let’s wear our masks, social distance and avoid crowded and indoor spaces. Let’s all do that and our stories become real again. In Rising To The Challenge on pg. 58, we look at some of the outsize efforts of Washington companies to change their business production or mission—if temporarily—to do their part to help fight the pandemic. This is a great story of leadership and compassion with a dash of business savvy. Our homes have become the faces whose details we see more often and more clearly in the mirror of sequestration. Many of those home projects that were getting pushed just ‘til next weekend are now getting done. In fact, some are taking their nesting to the next level with new backyard studios. That is indeed the topic of Backyard Industry on pg. 26. In that, you
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will be inspired by the creativity of others for your next major honey-do. All travel is local now, it seems, and based on the restrictions of each city and county. Many of our travel pieces may be aspirational until the virus is more contained. When that happens, you’ll feel a sense of rebellion. To that end, for our Northwest Destination feature, we put together A Rebel’s Tour of Oregon on pg. 75. We divined the historic rebels of Oregon and built travel itineraries to honor them. This takes us to Eugene for a Ken Kesey reminiscence, to Joseph for a salute to Chief Joseph, to Portland to toast its lost North Williams Avenue jazz era and more. Back in Washington, we skip up to the Methow Valley, where it’s easy to get away and stay away on long trails and whispering creeks. (See Trip Planner, pg. 72). Finally I leave you at Monarch Sculpture Park 10 miles south of Olympia. This 80 acres with 100 outdoor sculptures, a sound garden and a Japanese garden may be just the right medicine your mind needs right now. Cheers!
1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington
WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/in-focus photo by Thomas Pinchon Crystal Falls near Little Pend Oreille National Wildlife Refuge in northeastern Washington.
SPECIAL DIGITAL ISSUE Discover 40+ dreamy driving destinations around the Pacific Northwest in The Trip Planner Collection, a digital magazine from the publishers of 1889 Washington’s Magazine. www.bit.ly/tripplannercollection
DANCING THROUGH PAIN
Jessica Smith
Earlier this year, Statehood Media produced Healing, a collaborative project that brought together Ashland cellist Daniel Sperry and Oregon Ballet Theatre principal dancer Xuan Cheng. We started to find a way to express hope during the anxiety surrounding the pandemic. We harnessed the talents of these amazing artists to create something beautiful and healing in a time where we need both. Find the project on our Facebook at www.facebook.com/1889Washington
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SAY WA? 12 FOOD + DRINK 17 FARM TO TABLE 20 HOME + DESIGN 26 MIND + BODY 32
pg. 26 Backyard work retreats can be inspirational.
Art Grice
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 34
thinking the world revolves around you, come visit the Oregon Coast and think again.
THE
OREGON COAST visittheoregoncoast.com Funded in part by
Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor
say wa?
Tidbits & To-dos
Herbivore Botanicals
Share your love for Washington’s volcanoes with Design by SML’s coasters. The four-pack of poplar wood coasters, made in Seattle, feature the laser-engraved topography of Mount Rainier, Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams and Mount Baker. If you want to proclaim your love in a bigger way, Design by SML also sells wooden wall hangings of the topographies.
Looking to improve your skincare game? Seattle’s Herbivore Botanicals brings vegan, cruelty-free, natural products to the rescue. Founded in 2011, the company has a complete line of face oils, serums, soaps and even beard tonics. Try an after-sun soothing aloe mist when you’ve enjoyed the summer a little too much, or relax with a bath filled with soaking salts.
www.designbysml.com
www.herbivorebotanicals.com
Topography coasters
Visit your parks We know—2020 hasn’t exactly turned out how we’d all planned. But look on the bright side—Washington has beautiful national and state parks that are calling to you, and even if every wedding you were invited to got postponed, nature is never canceled. Be sure to check websites and follow the state’s social distancing guidelines, then get out on those trails you’ve always sworn you’d check out. www.nps.gov www.parks.wa.gov
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Allsop solar lanterns If you’re spending a lot more time in your backyard this summer, brighten it up with Allsop’s solar lanterns. The lanterns come in a variety of shapes, patterns and sizes, and all are eco-friendly and sustainable—the perfect addition to a Pacific Northwest garden. And as a final nod to our lifestyle, the lanterns are weather resistant. www.allsopgarden.com
Lush cookbook From 1889’s beer writer, Jackie Dodd, comes a cookbook that combines craft beer and seasonal produce. Lush has eighty recipes, all using seasonal craft beer. You’ll make grilled apricot saison shortcake, shaved asparagus with a lemon-pilsner vinaigrette, and beer-braised artichokes in puff pastry. Delicious. www.agatepublishing.com/titles/lush
Cocktail subscription box If quarantine taught us anything, it’s the importance of having something to look forward to each day—and Crafted Taste’s cocktail subscription boxes are just the thing. You can order a specific box (frosé mule, anyone?), or join the monthly subscription. Boxes come with everything you need to make between twelve and sixteen cocktails, or you can just get the mixers and do your own booze shopping. www.craftedtaste.com
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“I just felt this huge moment of relief and arrival and joy and lightness. I just felt like this is it. And here I am, seventeen albums later. I think it was a success for me.”
Brian Kasnyik / Bug Out cover art by Kate Endle
— Chris Ballew, aka Caspar Babypants, on the transition to kids music
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Musician
A True Voice
Chris Ballew traded in alt-rock fame for kids music, and he couldn’t be happier written by Sheila G. Miller
WHEN YOU CUE up any of Caspar Babypants’ seventeen kids albums, it’s impossible not to hear the distinct sound ’90s teens and adults alike loved when we first heard “Peaches,” “Kitty” and “Lump.” Chris Ballew, the former lead singer of the Presidents of the United States of America, has been making rockin’ kids songs for more than a decade, and his whipsmart, funny, earnest lyrics combine with skillful artistry to create memorable music for families. Ballew’s arrival on the kids music scene is the result of Babypants, including his most recent, Bug Out, which was a long search for his true voice. That search led first to the released in May. Presidents, the band that found fame with its quirky, silly, Sometimes he writes his songs quickly (“I have a few that upbeat music. just fell out of the sky that I just had to catch”), while others But he experimented with a simpler, smaller acoustic take years to pull together. But he records everything. sound and started writing his first Caspar Babypants record He has a huge playlist of songs he’s recorded—some as in 2008, while still touring and making albums with the Presi- many as thirty years ago—that he puts on shuffle while he dents. He kept that up for another six years. does things around the house. “I’ll hear something and think, “Then one day I woke up and I realized, Caspar is really ‘Oh, if I change those lyrics that could be a song about …’” what I want to do and I want to dedicate more When it’s time to make an album, he said, he energy to it,” he said. “So I quietly flipped the pulls out his folder full of songs and takes the Listen on Spotify switch and put the Presidents on the back best twenty off the top. “It’s a constant process burner and Caspar on the front.” of being very hard on myself about what is finWhen he met his second wife, visual artist ished and what isn’t,” he said. “It’s me alone on Kate Endle, he was inspired by her work. “It reall those things. It takes a long time to get outally spoke to me,” he said. “Her art was coming side the ego … and say, ‘How is a family going to from this place of innocence and nature, and it experience this?’” was folksy and well-constructed and bright. It Sometimes people think writing kids had animals in it, and it was really high-quality music must be easy. “It’s absolutely the opand whimsical. It was all the adjectives that I posite,” Ballew said. “You could take any alwanted to use to describe my music.” ternative adult emo-core band and read the So inspired, he knew: This was what he was supposed to phone book into a distorted microphone be doing. with enough emotion. But my words are laid “I just felt this huge moment of relief and arrival and joy bare right up front, so when I’m writing the lyrics—the allitand lightness. I just felt like this is it. And here I am, seventeen eration, the rhymes, the story, it all has to really work.” albums later,” Ballew said. “I think it was a success for me.” Ballew also performs live, to wild results. That creative happiness is obvious in his music—it’s smart, “It’s sometimes very loud and weird and boisterous. … but it’s also guileless. There’s no attempt to be cool in the way They will behave like the drunkest adults you’ve ever seen in so many rock bands try to be. “There was this feeling that you your life, coming up and grabbing the mic and trying to talk had to capture the zeitgeist every time you put out an album,” to me during the songs and hitting my leg.” he said. “You had to convince everybody you were cool and He once had to stop a show because a little boy wouldn’t that pressure was intense. … With the kids music scene, hav- stop trying to talk to him. Ballew asked the child what he ing a hit is irrelevant.” wanted to tell him. “He tells me the entire plot to The Little Being successful in his new scene means making music Mermaid, right there,” he said, laughing. “So it’s still a rock that kids and parents love to play over and over, together. show, just a different kind. I like to say it’s the most punk-rock Ballew is prolific. He’s put out seventeen albums as Caspar punk rock show you’ve ever been to.” AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
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Deb Caletti is a prolific Seattle author.
Bibliophile
Life Lessons Seattle YA author expands into middle-grades writing interview by Sheila G. Miller
NOTHING, NOT EVEN a global pandemic, slows Deb Caletti down. The award-winning author of books for teens and adults put out her first middle-grade book, A Flicker of Courage, this year, as well as a young-adult book, Girl Unframed, in June. The second in her middle-grade series comes out in September. Turns out, Caletti’s new foray into middlegrade fiction may be her true calling. “My husband always says I’m kind of a 9-year-old boy at heart, and I guess that’s what came out,” she said. A Flicker of Courage combines the story of Henry Every, a lonely child in the Timeless Province who joins with other kids to help a neighbor and fight back against Vlad Luxor, the Horrible Ruler With Magic—with images taken entirely from the public domain. The result is a smart, engaging tale filled with laughout-loud photos and illustrations that connect the story together. Henry learns the value of taking chances, the power of friendship and that your circumstances don’t have to define you. A second in the series, The Weird in the Wilds, is out in September. 16 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
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There’s often a lot of darkness in young adult books, which you usually write. This book has dark aspects to it, but you don’t dwell on them. That’s a thing I try to do in my YA and adult books as well. There’s the stuff that we go through that’s tough, but hopefully it’s leveled out with a lot of humor, and inevitably, a lot of hope. And at the end of the day, I try to do that in all my books. Henry is dealing with things that don’t often get spoken about or shown in that age group and I’ve heard from a lot of teachers who said, ‘I can think of so many kids who need these characters in their life.’ They need that sort of truth about their home life. In the same vein, sometimes kids books are pretty heavyhanded with life lessons. Yours isn’t—is that on purpose? I don’t ever want to claim to have any answers, because I don’t have any. I’m just still trying to figure it all out, too. We’re all just sort of our flawed human selves out in the world trying to do the best we can, and that’s important for every age of character. That is part of what I try to convey. What was different about this age group and this book is, I was able to connect into what’s wondrous about the world, and that’s not something I can do as much of in other books. It was lovely to be able to connect back into wonder. You’re prolific. Where do these ideas come from? I really start at the point of what is on my mind. What am I thinking about? What is bothering me? If I don’t start from
that place of passion and deeply caring about something, I don’t think I’m going to be able to make it matter to a reader. In writers, there are two camps—the outliners and the freefallers, and I am definitely in the latter camp. I know where I’m starting and where I’m going to end up, and then I just kind of see how we’re going to get there. I just see where it takes me. I really love that approach, because there’s a process of discovery along the way. For me anyway, if there’s too much planning and clutching and rigidity, you can’t be open to what might actually happen and what you might discover and how much that can change things. Writing is always a process of discovery. It’s my personal quest to understand myself and the world I live in and other human beings. I think as a kid, I went to books for that. I needed to understand myself and my world and I went to books—I needed to read for that, but now I also write for that. What’s your next book in this series about? In this one, Vlad Luxor is attempting to build a wall around the province, and he wants to build a wall between the outers and the inners. There’s a lot of talk about how differences are innate in all of us and in nature. Can’t imagine where you came up with that idea. As you probably noticed there was a little bit of real-life inspiration, and just maybe more of an attempt to remind people about the powers of kindness and looking toward others—those basic things seem to be not happening so much right now.
food + drink
Come In! We’re
OPEN
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Amaro’s Table, Vancouver
Sixth Scents
Beervana
A Friend in Need written by Sheila G. Miller | illustration by Allison Bye CRAFT BREWING IS a part of our Pacific Northwest heritage and identity. Olympia and Rainier led to the early adopters—Redhook and Pike Brewing Company and the like. Today, by Washington Beer Commission Executive Director Eric Radovich’s count, there are 421 craft breweries in the state. After the monthslong stay-athome orders, they need our help. A national survey from the Denverbased Brewers Association found that if the shutdown continued through the summer, as many as 50 percent of Washington’s small breweries might have to shut their doors for good. No honest Northwesterner wants that. With Phase 2 and 3 of Washington’s reopening allowing for limited capacity at breweries, Radovich urged patience. “There may be some wait to get into popular breweries and social distancing will be strictly enforced,” he said. “Visit responsibly in hopes of getting to Phase 4.” If there are benefits to this global pandemic, one may be that the innovation shown by breweries and other small businesses may stick around—a boon for consumers. Curbside pickup of beer and to-go burgers with a six-pack thrown in could be a new norm. “Our breweries have been quite creative, and necessity being the mother of invention, they’ve figured out ways to do curbside pickup,
delivery and to-go beer in various vessels and packaging,” Radovich said. “The best way you can support your local brewery is to look for local beer in your grocery stores and shops that are open, or get beer to go, as most places will continue to make that a very accessible and safe offering.” Breweries that, pre-coronavirus, had never packaged their product in cans or bottles may continue doing so after this is behind us. “They’re now familiar with the ins and outs of packaging in bottles and cans—particularly as cans have become popular,” Radovich said. “And there’s mobile canning units and the ability to get beer canned has become easier. I think many will continue to put some beer in cans or crowlers.” Most of Washington’s breweries, however, survive on pint sales in their own taprooms. So when the time is right, get out there—you’ll be helping an industry that continues to grow in this great state. “When I started as commissioner ten years ago, we had 117 breweries in the state at that time,” he said. “I figured if we got to 200 or more we might hit market saturation. Today we have 421 breweries. I’m not the world’s best prognosticator.” Turns out, if we do our part, we’ll be able to prove that beer is not only recession proof—it’s pandemic proof.
• • • • • • •
1½ ounces Sipsmith gin ¾ ounce Dolin Génépy les Chamois ¾ ounce lemon ½ ounce raspberry simple syrup 2 sprigs of thyme 4 mint leaves 1 egg white
Gently muddle mint and thyme into raspberry simple syrup for 10 seconds in a shaker tin. Add the rest of the ingredients and dry shake without ice for 15 seconds, then add ice and shake vigorously for another 15 seconds. Double strain into coupe and garnish with a raspberry and garden herbs. This cocktail can be made without egg white and poured over ice for those who are not sure about egg white drinks, are vegan, or don’t want to go through the trouble. FOR RASPBERRY SIMPLE SYRUP Combine equal parts 2 cups of sugar and 2 cups boiling water. Refrigerate until cold. Put simple syrup and a clamshell of raspberries into a blender and blend until incorporated, about 10 seconds. Strain through a fine mesh strainer into a storage container and store in the refrigerator for up to a week.
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food + drink
CRAVINGS OMELETS Voula’s Offshore Cafe, known for killer omelets larger than the average person can eat and a touch of Greek influence on the menu, is a U District staple. This isn’t the place to go if you’re in a hurry—it’s often hopping and everything is cooked to order—but it’s worth it. 658 NE NORTHLAKE WAY SEATTLE www.voulasoffshore.com
PIZZA Celebrating a decade on the Spokane scene, this local pub and pizza place is beloved of locals. Try Flying Goat’s D Street, a Neapolitan-style crust topped with curry, chicken and sriracha, or play it a little safer with one of the more traditional offerings. Don’t forget to check out the rotating regional beer taps.
The Joule makes sous vide cooking more simple.
LATIN FLAVORS
Gastronomy
Joule by Chefsteps written by Cara Strickland IN 2016, THE TEAM at Chefsteps created the Joule, a sous vide machine for the home cook. According to Grant Crilly, co-founder of Chefsteps, the company decided to create a sous vide to solve a problem people had with cooking all over the world: time and temperature management. Most foods cooked sous vide can sit in the water for some time without losing quality, and the machine makes sure the temperature doesn’t waver. Restaurants have long known the power of sous vide, a French term that means “under vacuum” and refers to cooking in bags suspended in water. Though it makes the best steaks you’ve ever had, it’s almost completely foolproof, and perfect for those short on time to cook. “Sous vide sounds tricky, it sounds complicated, but what we’ve found over the years is that it’s actually one of the most simple ways to cook food, and that’s why customers tend to fall in love with it,” Crilly said. “It gives them time back, it gives them more control over their outcome. People love that.” Who wouldn’t? 1501 PIKE PLACE #300 SEATTLE www.chefsteps.com
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3318 W NORTHWEST BOULEVARD SPOKANE www.theflyinggoat.com
Right on the water, you’ll find this funky little Latin spot with a PNW influence serving up familiar and original flavors—much of it inspired by the chef’s experiences in Mexico City and Cuba. The menu rotates a bit with the seasons, but don’t miss the guava mousse in the spring. 220 1ST STREET LANGLEY www.facebook.com/ porticolatinbistro
ICE CREAM What better way to spend a summer afternoon in Leavenworth than with Whistlepunk’s handcrafted ice cream? Try the Blackberry Fool or the Salted Caramel. You won’t regret it. 707 US-2, SUITE C LEAVENWORTH www.whistlepunkicecream.com
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
food + drink
BEST PLACES TO
STOCK A PICNIC BASKET Stop in for lunch, sure, but don’t forget to stock up on cheeses and charcuterie, wine and fresh baked goods. Founded in 1991, this spot is all about connecting island occupants with the best flavors they can find, be they American, Italian or French. 382 PRUNE ALLEY EASTSOUND, ORCAS ISLAND www.rosesbakerycafe.com
photos: John Beck
ROSE’S BAKERY CAFE
ROCKET MARKET This European-inspired market may be tiny, but you’ll be surprised how much can fit inside. From a sumptuous cheese cooler to a wide array of organic produce, there are plenty of raw ingredients for a DIY picnic. If you want something a little more put together, visit the glass case for scratch soups, salads and sandwiches to go. 726 E 43RD STREET SPOKANE www.rocketmarket.com
CUGINI ITALIAN IMPORT FOODS
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Marination has tacos that mix various flavors. The restaurants were started by Roz Edison and Kamala Saxton. Hawaiian flavors extend to dessert.
Dining
Marination and Super Six
Though you can dine in at Cugini, it’s a great spot to pick up some provisions for a picnic among the vineyards, or anywhere else your heart desires. The deli and restaurant’s current iteration is a result of the passion of Michelle Martuscelli, a Walla Walla native descended from Italian immigrants, and her Danish husband, Chad. Their goal is to offer authentic Italian flavors to the Walla Walla community (and lucky visitors).
IT ALL STARTED WITH a food truck. In 2009, Marination co-owners Kamala Saxton and Roz Edison took a post-economic crash risk and started creating Korean-Hawaiian fusion food in a mobile kitchen. Now they’ve expanded to three brick-and-mortar locations under the Marination name—a tiny one in Capitol Hill and one with a killer view of the water in West Seattle, along with the truck that started it all. A sister restaurant, Super Six, is a mixture of Asian, American and distinctly PNW flavors. All the restaurants are known for their inventive cocktails made with fresh ingredients and craveable food with quality ingredients that will keep you coming back for more. Be sure to try the kimchi fried rice—but frankly, I dare you to find something on this menu that isn’t delicious.
960 WALLULA AVENUE WALLA WALLA www.cuginiitalianimportfoods.com
LOCATIONS IN SEATTLE www.marinationmobile.com www.supersixseattle.com
written by Cara Strickland
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farm to table
Farm to Table
Raspberries’ Return
Local farmers and market vendors make the season especially sweet written by Corinne Whiting photography by Reva Keller IN RECENT MONTHS, interest in Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) subscriptions has been on the rise, and that’s sweet news for regional farmers who have lost revenue elsewhere. David Rothstein and Alex Johnstone, the owners of Salmonberry Goods, were ahead of the curve when it comes to partnering with local farms and Pacific Northwest producers. The Seattle natives are known for mindfully sourcing for their seasonal, farm-totable pastries and products ranging from breads and pastas to chai and kombucha. The duo aims for the following: to offer “the best value on the highest quality goods—with the least impact possible.” And that, of course, applies to their use of the almighty raspberry, too. “We love Sidhu Farms in Puyallup, a lovely family that grows the sweetest, tangiest berries,” Rothstein said. “They’ve been a staple for restaurants and farmers markets in Seattle for years.” Kamal Sidhu, part of a three-generation farming family from India, now owns Sidhu Farms alongside his two brothers. In 1997, their dad bought an overgrown farm with the intention of developing houses there. While his father was away in India for about a month, his mom, grandma and cousin picked berries from the property, then sold them at a local farmers market. Upon his return, the elder Sidhu learned about the unexpected—and highly successful—project, and the family has been at it ever since. These days, the farm grows blueberries—for which they became certified organic in 2000—as well as raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, marionberries and boysenberries. They also produce an assortment of vegetables, from tomatoes and cauliflower to Brussels sprouts. “You name it, we probably grow it,” Sidhu said. Nine family members now work for the farm: Sidhu’s two brothers and their three wives, one uncle, and their mom and dad (who officially retired but still work as much as they always did, Sidhu joked). Throughout the season, they hire about fifteen to twenty additional workers to help pick berries. The farm has eight varieties of raspberries, typically available from late May or early June through the end of October. The most popular, tulameen, is a variety that’s available in July, slightly softer and described as “really big, super flavorful.” 20 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
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farm to table
Chet Sidhu picks raspberries at Sidhu Farms in Puyallup.
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farm to table
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farm to table
Washington proves an ideal climate for growing berries, since summers here are mild to warm. However, the temperatures of eight or nine years ago were even more desirable, Sidhu admitted. Although Sidhu grew up around agriculture, he went to school for an unrelated subject—computer science. Eventually the farming life grew on him. This industry can be difficult and involve very long hours, but Sidhu finds the role incredibly rewarding. Whatever product has been picked that morning can go straight to the farmers markets and land in a customer’s fridge by afternoon. “That doesn’t really happen with most other things,” he said. And since the family sells directly to consumers, they get to cultivate genuine relationships with customers. “Because of the way we do everything,” he said, “we’re able to make such personal connections. It’s what kept me from doing what I went to school for.” The family has even run into local customers at far-flung destinations such as Disneyland and Knott’s Berry Farm. Sidhu is confident his family will weather these unsteady times, since the business is so consumer-oriented and already has a solid farmers market base. There has undoubtedly been a drop in sales, he said, but he’s grateful to have found new partnerships and collaborations. As of now, customers can order directly from Sidhu’s website or find Sidhu Farms goods distributed in Pike Place Market CSA boxes or through Savor Seattle’s Iconic Market Box program. The farm also has a presence at market locations ranging from Ballard and Queen Anne to Pierce County. Typically the farm is represented at thirty-five farmers markets a week; this year Sidhu predicts that number will drop to twentyseven or twenty-eight. (The farm will try to make up for that loss with CSAs and direct delivery options.) When it comes to picking berries off a bush, they should fall into your hand. A good rule of thumb, according to Sidhu, is that “if you have to pull, it’s not ready.” And for storing the brightly hued fruit, the Salmonberry Goods team shared a tip. “We love making berry season last forever, so we like to freeze our berries.” They find this works best by spreading berries on a sheet pan so they can be individually frozen. The culinary bliss can be extended in other ways, too. “Making raw jams to be frozen, then unearthed in the depths of winter for a taste of summer is a sweet family tradition,” Rothstein said. The Salmonberry Goods team shared one last decadent discovery. Their favorite way to bake with raspberries? Plant-based pop tarts, with a layer of Washington hazelnut frangipane underneath. In this delicacy, “the natural tartness of the raspberry absolutely shines.” CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The Sidhu family at their farm in Puyallup. When harvesting raspberries, if you have to pull them they’re not ready. The Sidhu family grows a variety of berries, including certified organic blueberries, marionberries and boysenberries.
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farm to table
Organic Raspberry Popsicle
The Woodmark Hotel & Still Spa / KIRKLAND Brian Doherty MAKES 6
Fire & Vine Hospitality
• 2 cups organic raspberries • 2 tablespoons Woodmark Hive Honey • 2 cups vanilla Ellenos yogurt
Washington Recipes
Lemon panna cotta with raspberries and madeleines is a summery treat.
Berry Bliss Lemon Panna Cotta with Raspberries and Madeleines Aerlume / SEATTLE Maggie Trujillo SERVES 6 FOR PANNA COTTA • 4 gelatin sheets • 2¼ cups heavy cream • 1 cup granulated sugar • Lemon zest • 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice • 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons whole-fat Greek yogurt • Pinch of salt FOR MADELEINES • ½ teaspoon vanilla paste • ⅓ cup whole milk • 3 eggs • Lemon zest • 1 cup granulated sugar • 9 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing the molds • 1 teaspoon baking powder • 1⅓ cup all-purpose flour, plus extra for the madeleine molds FOR PANNA COTTA Bloom gelatin in ice water—if the
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water gets warm it will dissolve. Combine cream, sugar, zest and juice in sauce pot and bring to scalding. Remove from heat and add gelatin, making sure to wring out any excess water. Whisk in Greek yogurt. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer, then pour into desired molds and refrigerate until set, ideally three hours. FOR MADELEINES Makes 24-36 cookies, depending on size of molds Sift dry ingredients. Cream butter, sugar and zest until it starts to get fluffy and pale in color. Combine eggs, milk and vanilla paste. Add eggs to butter mixture one at a time, scraping the bowl often. Eggs at room temperature are easier to work with. With mixer on low speed, add dry ingredients. Refrigerate mixture for an hour or overnight. Brush pans with melted butter and dust lightly with flour, then fill the madeleine molds with dough. A pastry bag can be helpful. Bake at 425 degrees for 5 minutes, then rotate pans. Bake for 5 more minutes and allow a few extra minutes in oven if baking larger cookies.
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Blend the raspberries in a food processor or blender on high speed until nearly liquified into a smoothie-like consistency. Pour the thick raspberry liquid into a large bowl. Stir in the honey. Add the yogurt and very gently mix everything together. You want a tie-dye, swirly look to your popsicles—do not fully blend the yogurt and berries. You want patches of white and purple. The mixture will be thick. Taste it. If you want it sweeter, you can add a little more honey. Pour mixture evenly into each popsicle mold. If your popsicle mold has slots for sticks, you can insert them before freezing—if not, freeze for 2 hours, then place a wooden popsicle stick in the middle. Continue to freeze for an additional 4 to 6 hours or overnight. Run popsicle molds under warm water to easily remove.
Raspberry and Guajillo Chili Hot Sauce Eight Row / SEATTLE David Nichols MAKES 1 PINT • 2 cups fresh Washington raspberries • 2 dried guajillo chilis • 2 teaspoons Mexican dried oregano • 1 tablespoon roasted garlic • 2 shallots, sliced • 1 cup water • ½ cup white distilled vinegar • 1 tablespoon olive oil • Salt and pepper In a medium saucepan, add the olive oil and shallots and sweat over medium heat until soft. Add roasted garlic, dried chilis, dried oregano, water, vinegar, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Take off heat. Add berries and all ingredients to a blender and purée until smooth. Strain through a fine strainer and let cool. Once cool, place in a jar. Hot sauce can keep for two weeks.
FINDS A CLAM. TRIES ONE AT DINNER. PROGRESS. MILESTONES, JUST A FEW MILES AWAY. Only two hours from Seattle, Semiahmoo is the perfect place to experience the moments with your kids that you live for. And with award-winning golf, casual seaside dining, and endless beach activities, you can try something new, too. Visit Semiahmoo.com or call 360.318.2000.
home + design
Backyard Industry Step inside the personal home studios of two Washington architects to see how they built hubs of creativity in as little as 80 square feet written by Melissa Dalton
Bainbridge Island: A home office that doubles as a bunkhouse IN 1976, ARCHITECT Jim Cutler bought waterside acreage on Bainbridge Island. Some forty years later, he was struck by an idea while in his home office, then located in his daughters’ playroom: Why stare at an uninspiring view of salal and English ivy when he could be looking at the water instead?
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Photos: Art Grice
home + design
AT LEFT A tiny studio in the woods doubles as a bunkhouse. ABOVE, FROM LEFT The family worked together on building the studio, which has a desk facing the water. The bed adds a treehouse feel.
Around the same time, Cutler’s 10-year-old daughter, Hannah, suggested he enclose her treehouse to become a base for sleepovers. The two notions entwined into an idea for a single building that both father and daughter could use. “I drew it up and then went back and forth with Hannah about ideas,” Cutler said. The result is a backyard studio in the footprint of an old garden shed, complete with a desk, single bed, wood-burning stove and glass-wrapped wall with a view of the sound. “I’ve got to always be doing something with my hands,” Cutler said. When he first purchased the property, it had a small cabin and outhouse, complete with one running tap that drained to a cesspool. Cutler proceeded to hoist the cabin 10 feet in the air, using rented cribbing and two beams in order to build a first floor beneath it on a tight budget and expand the home to a comfortable 1,600 square feet. That project garnered an eightpage-spread in The Seattle Times and effectively kickstarted his Seattle-based practice, Cutler Anderson Architects. For the backyard studio, Cutler’s wife, Beth, and Hannah joined him for the nine-month build. Beth and Hannah dug holes for the footings, while Cutler mixed concrete. He cut the walls and pre-drilled them in the garage so Hannah could screw them together. Cutler commissioned shingles cut from Corten steel for the walls and roof. “Hannah did all the sheathing until
it got up too high for her,” Cutler said, so he finished up the roof. They installed all the windows except for the 5x10-foot piece of glass. That needed to be hired out, as it weighed 400 pounds. Inside, Cutler detailed an exposed interior wood structure and hired his favorite cabinetmaker for the built-in elements. “It’s kind of a lifeboat,” Cutler said, meaning that from the wood stove to the battery storage, the bunkhouse packs all of the essentials in case of island brown-outs. “We really wanted a place where we could still live on the property and have heat,” Cutler said. These days, the tiny studio is a communal spot. “The thing we didn’t expect is it became our family room,” Cutler said. When the wood stove gets going, the family’s cats come running, ready for a toasty snooze on the bed. After Cutler finishes work for the day, he sits at the desk and draws, while Hannah and Beth curl up and stream TV shows. The 30-foot walk back to the main house is an opportunity to appreciate nature’s offerings. “I’m now trying to convince clients to do this. It’s no big deal to go outside from one area of a house to another,” Cutler said, describing a typical night: “The trees are howling from the wind. And there’s this moon with clouds rushing by. You have to stop and look. It just connects you back to the world.” AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
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home + design
Seattle: A space ‘pops out’ to house an architectural studio
ABOVE Hole House #2 was an art installation in an old garage on Hutchison’s property. (photo: Robert Hutchison Architecture) AT RIGHT The “Pop-Out Studio” replaced the decrepit garage.
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Alan W. Abramowitz Photography
Robert Hutchison has a penchant for exploration, even when staying put. For proof, look no further than the architect’s Instagram account. During Washington’s stay-at-home order to prevent the spread of COVID-19 in May, Hutchison started chronicling his “urban walks,” capturing a photo of an interesting building every mile or so. The resulting slide show is an immersive stroll along Seattle’s diverse—and sometimes quirky or questionable—streetscape, and also reveals Hutchison’s inquisitive eye. Perhaps, then, it’s no surprise that when the architect turned his gaze to the decrepit garage in his backyard more than a decade ago, with the goal of building a sleek new studio in its place, the process began with an art installation. Such installations “give us a way to explore light and space at an architectural scale,” Hutchison said. Plus, they’re fun. In Hutchison’s hands, the rotted, rat-infested garage behind his 1912 farmhouse in the Fremont neighborhood became “Hole House #2,” wherein he drilled holes in two walls and the roof, then had a party. “And then the next day we tore it down,” Hutchison said. The structure built in the garage’s place sits atop the old foundation. “The functional requirements were to try to provide as much flexible work space as possible in a super small footprint,” Hutchison said, as the studio
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
Mark Woods Mark Woods
FROM TOP Four people work in the two-story Pop-Out Studio. The studio is behind Hutchison’s house, making for an easy commute.
is also home base for his firm, which currently numbers four people. To maximize the floor space, the two-story building cantilevers in two directions, a move which garnered it the nickname “Pop-Out Studio.” An alternating-tread steel ship’s ladder connects the two floors, and makes it possible to descend face out, which is helpful when carrying drawings or meeting notes in hand. The ladder also saves space in the 430-square-foot footprint. Desks line the perimeter walls and are surrounded by shelves weighed down with art and architecture books, making room for two conference tables, one up and one down, for simultaneous meetings to occur. Upstairs, a roof deck with a view of Lake Union is the spot for a private phone call, client meeting, or post-work happy hour. “We have incredibly large quantities of glass on this little building,” Hutchison said. The incoming light penetrates via strips of
windows and two sets of folding doors, detailed by Hutchison’s builder and friend Jake LaBarre. For those, LaBarre attached “super cheap and simple glass door panels” with a continuous piano hinge. The openings frame views of courtyards on two sides. The more narrow “sliver courtyard” along the building’s south wall is lined with a remnant of the former garage, sunlight filtering through the holes, edged with greenery and new growth. Future use of the building is a question mark. If the firm grows, Hutchison might relocate, and his wife would move her homebased graphic design business inside. They may rent it out to local artists at some point, or, thanks to a change in zoning, build a 10-foot-wide house and attach the studio to it. The possibilities abound, but for now Hutchison is enjoying its current iteration and the brief walk to work, which leaves more time for other explorations: “Not having to commute is so incredible,” Hutchison said.
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Art Grice
home + design
A view like this, on Bainbridge Island, proves placement is important.
DIY: Tips for Building a Backyard Studio BACKYARD SHEDS have evolved well past their early days of tool storage and gardening tables. Need a yoga retreat, crafting nook or home-based office? Here are tips for installing a simple outbuilding in your backyard. CHECK THE RULES An outbuilding classified as a “shed” typically needs to be kept to a certain size, often under 200 square feet and one story, and cannot be used as permanent living space. If these conditions are followed, sheds are often exempt from needing a building permit. Additionally, if there is plumbing, electrical or a fireplace within the shed, each might require its own permit. Local jurisdictions vary, so always check first. PLACEMENT When placing the shed in your yard, consider sightlines from within the structure looking out, as well as from the main house and points in the yard. Is there a view from inside the shed that a window can frame nicely, such as in Jim Cutler’s project? Can you surround the shed with pretty landscaping so it looks nestled in the landscape, such as with the courtyards that border Robert Hutchison’s studio? There may also be official constraints as to a shed’s proximity to side and rear 30
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property lines, so ask the local permitting office for clarification. SYNCHRONIZE THE DESIGN One way to make the shed feel intentional is to take design cues from the existing house. This may mean repeating window or door styles, or mimicking the main home’s roofline, or siding. If architectural variation is preferred, painting the shed exterior the same color as the house will unify the two separate buildings. Bring in as much natural light as possible via windows or glass doors to help the small shed live as large as possible. CONSIDER A KIT Washington is rife with local outfits that have an array of pre-built shed designs. Check out the “Shaw Island” model from Heritage Portable Buildings in Burlington for a traditional option, the barn-style vernacular from the Silverdale-based Better Bilt, or the uber-contemporary stylings of Modern Shed in Seattle.
home + design
Office Finery
It’s safe to say that every desk has a cord problem, but the Wire Management Kit from Fully will wrangle those wires into submission. It comes with a cable tray, surge protector, ten adhesive cable mounts, and twenty zip ties, all in the same matching colorway—white, black or gray. It’s a sleek solution to a ubiquitous problem.
Bring your home office into the twenty-first century with these finds
www.fully.com The Jarvis Bamboo Standing Desk is a customer favorite at Fully, the Portland-based office furniture retailer. The warm bamboo desktop is supported by a sleek, adjustable frame, which lifts or lowers at the touch of a small lever. www.fully.com
Slump no more—try the ErgoStool for maintaining better posture in front of the screen. The padded seat, weighted base and adjustable neck are meant to move with you while you fidget at your desk, and strengthen your back and core in the process. www.autonomous.ai
Give your to-do list and deadlines a bright backdrop with Poketo’s Spectrum Wall Planner, composed of poster-sized monthly pages in a range of colors. Hang one month at a time, or hang them all in a rainbow-hued grid. Any configuration is sure to delight, maybe even more so than the satisfaction of getting things done. www.poketo.com
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Still Hopeful Nevin Harrison may have to wait, but her sights are still set on the Olympics written by Sheila G. Miller
THIS SPRING, MOST SENIORS in high school were preparing for prom and making college plans when the coronavirus ground all that to a halt. Nevin Harrison, 18, was taking online classes, training as a canoe sprinter and envisioning winning a gold medal at the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games.
The Seattle teenager has now graduated, and while the Olympics may be delayed for a year, her goals remain the same. The word canoe likely conjures images of summer camp—a wide boat built for lazy days on the lake. This is not that. In canoe sprinting, the paddler kneels on one knee and brings the other leg forward, then paddles on one side only, using a J-stroke to keep the boat straight. The boats are sleek and aerodynamic. “When someone told me about the sport, I was like ‘Oh, so you sit in a fat canoe and paddle on a lake like everyone does at their cabin in the summer? That’s a ridiculous thing that people race that.’” Then she saw a video of it and thought, “That looks super fun and hard but also something that I definitely wouldn’t get bored with.” Getting to be out on the water in Seattle all the time was an added bonus. 32
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Before she took up canoe sprinting, Harrison played all the traditional sports, and track was her favorite. But when she showed promise in canoe, she realized that going to the Olympics was more important to her. Harrison initially trained for about two years with the Gig Harbor Canoe & Kayak racing team. “It was a great group of people and the level of training that I really needed,” Harrison said. Then, when she started competing at higher levels, she had to seek a new training group and coach, which led her to Georgia to train with a group of national team members. Harrison came on the scene somewhat unexpectedly. She won the C-1 200-meter gold at the Pan American Games, then went to her first world championship in the same category. She was the first U.S. athlete to win a world title in a canoe
mind + body
Nevin Harrison won the world title in the 200-meter sprint last year.
Nevin Harrison World Champion Sprint Canoeist Age: 18 Born: Seattle Residence: Seattle
WORKOUT Harrison has two or three workouts per day, usually two on the water and one in the gym. The morning water session is about sixty minutes of sprints, while the afternoon is a slower, longer session. In the gym, some days are lighter weights and cardio, while others are heavy lifts such as squats, cleans and deadlifts.
NUTRITION
Bence Vekassy/International Canoe Federation
When she’s training, she said, she lives on bell peppers and Greek yogurt. She tries to steer clear of ice cream and desserts as much as possible. “But sometimes you have to indulge,” she said.
sprint event, earning gold last August. The 2020 Olympic Games were the first time women’s canoe was on the docket. She hopes to attend the University of California at Berkeley, but for now it’s all about training for the Olympics. “It’s hard for any athlete that was even thinking about qualifying for the Olympics, because it’s a big goal that’s kind of in the near future,” Harrison said. “But for athletes that had already qualified and gotten their goal and finally were about to be Olympians, to hear, ‘Oh just kidding, no you’re not,’ that was really hard. We dropped our whole lives this year to train for this event.” After the initial shock, Harrison regrouped. She decided to make the best of it. “I’ve been trying not to think about it so much and just keep training as normally as I can, but have a
INSPIRATION “One of the best feelings in the world to me is crossing the finish line of a race and realizing that you won. It’s literally one of my favorite things that I’ve ever experienced. When I’m training, I like remembering the feeling of standing on top of the podium. … That gets me through it. Every hard workout I do it’s a little bit closer to that.”
little more fun with it,” she said. “If we’re nonstop working for eighteen months it’s gonna be a burnout situation.” Harrison is also using the unexpected extra time to improve. “OK, we have another year, but we did everything we could and we did a lot of things right leading up to the summer,” she said. “So I guess the things we didn’t do right this year, we have a chance to do more and get better. We’ll be perfect next year.” If so, the competition will be in trouble. “Olympic gold would be kind of like, my life is complete at the age of 19,” Harrison said, laughing. “So I think to me it’s almost like there’s no other option than to win a race. Obviously I might not win … but I try to think about it so there’s no other option.” AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
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Painting For the Public Good Urban ArtWorks connects at-risk youth with mural painting, with beautiful results written by Sheila G. Miller
SEATTLE’S VIBRANT PUBLIC art scene has a long history. The city established a “percent for art” ordinance back in 1973. Today, sculptures and murals dot the landscape, surprising visitors and delighting locals with whimsy, political messages and creativity. Urban ArtWorks, a Seattle-based nonprofit, combines the creation of public art with the mission of helping at-risk youth. The nonprofit, established in 1995, connects young people with art-based employment and professional artists, who then work together to paint murals throughout Seattle. It started as an attempt to clean graffiti and trash in the SoDo area of Seattle. The goal—beautify the transit corridor by creating murals, and help at-risk youth who could assist in the development of the murals. Since then, the nonprofit has worked throughout the city to create new public art and help the community. More than 2,000 kids have worked on more than 500 murals over the years. The majority of the teens who enter the program as part of juvenile justice requirements do not re-offend. The nonprofit has been through a number of iterations since the early days, but Amanda Hashagen, who took over as executive director of Urban ArtWorks about a year ago, said two things have remained consistent. “The main throughline has been working with young people who have been involved in the court system and creating murals in the city,” she said. 34
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Urban ArtWorks has four programs. The Mural Apprentice Program employs at-risk teens (including those in the juvenile justice system) who work with professional teaching artists to develop artistic skills, then research, design and install murals around Seattle. The program traditionally runs for eight weeks. Teens who complete that program can be part of the Arts Mentorship Program, which began in January and allows them to work one-on-one with a professional artist mentor. Teens create a portfolio and display the work at a gallery. “The goal is youth who go through that apprenticeship program can stay for a one-on-one mentorship, and then after that they can be an assistant out in the field on mural projects or graffiti remediation,” Hashagen said. “They can have a leadership role.” Another way of reaching kids comes in the form of the Murals in Schools program, in which school-age kids work with artists to create murals at their schools. Finally, Urban ArtWorks operates the Commissioned and Community Mural program, where businesses and organizations allow communities to provide input on murals in their neighborhoods and facilities. Some of those murals are completed by professional artists, while others involve community member participation. Urban ArtWorks is commissioned to create murals—sometimes by private companies and organizations, sometimes by
Jonathan Wakuda Fischer/Jake Hanson
artist in residence
FROM LEFT A teen works on mural art. Cherry Trees by Jonathan Wakuda Fischer at 10th Avenue and S. King Street in Seattle.
social service organizations. Each project is slightly different, but most organizations pay for the murals. Recently, young people worked on a mural in a courtyard at St. Martin’s on Westlake, a permanent senior men’s housing community run by Catholic Charities. The young people connected with residents, who experienced chronic homelessness. They took their inspiration, then worked on the mural—but not in person. They worked to create the mural on parachute cloth in the studio—it will be installed at a later date and is expected to last ten years. Urban ArtWorks works with King County’s Employment and Educational Training Program, which connects young people on probation with work options. Urban ArtWorks is one of those options—case managers suggest young people who might be a good fit for the program. For the first twenty-five years of the program, that was enough. Over the past few years, the number of young people on probation has been decreasing, and as a result Urban ArtWorks has been pulling youth from other work-training programs around the Seattle area. The nonprofit also welcomes young people who want to be a part of the mural process, having seen their friends or family participate. Everyone is either paid by stipend, through a training program, or earns community service hours. Ultimately, perhaps some of the young people will become mural artists and teach other artists. “It’s not for everyone, but we’re
looking at how we can really provide opportunities for young people and, in particular, young people of color and those who are marginalized, who don’t have as much access to arts education. How can we really guide them through the process, to where they can be employed—in a very real sense—in the arts, if they want to?” Hashagen acknowledged that many of the young people who come through the program may not want to be artists. “It’s about the process, and how we can help them set the goal of painting a mural, which is a really big goal for a lot of them who maybe have not painted before. How can we help them see that goal as a metaphor for other parts of their lives?” Hashagen said. “Help them break those goals into smaller pieces, help them see, ‘Oh, I have a connection to this community, to my peers, I have people who care about me.’ ‘I can produce something beautiful and meaningful and important for my community. People can now look at me as someone who is really vital to the community, not as somebody who is in the court system.’” And Urban ArtWorks plans to expand the places it serves—this summer the nonprofit planned to work with the City of Burien and another nonprofit, Choose 189. That collaboration was postponed to next summer due to coronavirus. Hashagen envisions community members working alongside police to create public art in an area plagued by gang violence, for example. “Not everyone wants to be an artist, but it’s important to have the opportunity to have a creative outlet as a way to process emotions or distract emotions, or whatever it may be,” Hashagen said. “It’s so important that the community see these young people creating something positive, and it’s equally important that they see the community seeing them in a positive way.” AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
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STARTUP 38 WHAT’S GOING UP 40 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 41 MY WORKSPACE 42
pg. 38 Share Farm connects consumers to the local produce they crave.
Emily Joan Greene
GAME CHANGER 44
E C N E ERI HOTEL
W D NE EXR P N A BR OU
T WA O N K M BOO ARS.CO D 7CE
find your
experience on the
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H OT E L | C A S I N O | D I N I N G | G O L F | S E Q U I M , W A | 7 C E D A R S .C O M
startup
Farmers Market 2.0 Share Farm adds tech to the traditional farmers market, helping consumers and vendors alike written by Ginger Smith | photography by Emily Joan Greene
HERE IN THE Pacific Northwest, we care about our food. We all know a person who shops piecemeal—fresh salmon from the fish market, fresh produce from the farmers market, soaps and paper products from a local store. Share Farm is here to make it more simple. “We have so many The idea for the company came from the choices we all make when fact that in many places, like Spokane, farm- it comes to food,” Watson ers markets close up shop when winter comes. said. “Cost is one of them, What happens to the vendors and their re- but when you see the immaining inventory? And where do those who pact of putting your food dolwant access to those products go once the lars into our local economy and markets are closed? seeing the impact that can have on Share Farm rides to the rescue with its on- a local farmer or a local artisan food proline mobile farmers market app. Vincent Peak ducer, and how that can boost their creativstarted Share Farm in 2015 after seeing these ity. We can change the way we view food as a issues at farmers markets where he community.” MORE ONLINE was a vendor. Currently, Share Farm delivers To learn more “He was doing well, but he was on Mondays and Tuesdays in Spoor shop through Share Farm, go to getting requests for more and he was kane—orders close at 5 p.m. the www.share.farm wanting to scale his business, and day before, and then the company dealing with the things that small businesses uses a software program to map the most efand entrepreneurs have to deal with,” Share ficient route for deliveries. Share Farm has a Farm’s Stephanie Watson said. warehouse in Liberty Lake with some invenShare Farm works directly with sellers to tory, while other sellers bring inventory to the help them post products on the online mar- warehouse for order delivery. ketplace. Sellers manage their own inventory “We are tracking the data to reduce the and maintain their profiles. Share Farm pro- touch points and road miles, but especially vides the platform and makes money with the touch points between the folks and their a markup of the goods. “It lets locals know food,” Watson said. “We’re letting technology there might be someone 3 miles away from do the work.” their house creating and making products The company also sells wholesale and they could buy,” Watson said. through corporate dining accounts, and reThe average Share Farm customer, accord- duces packaging and waste where possible. ing to Watson, is seeking a full-service gro“It really is making connections that othercery delivery service, but also wants local and wise weren’t being made,” Watson said. ethically sourced food and other goods. “They Next up, the company plans to expand may weight more heavily the ethical choices into Seattle, then eventually into Portland behind their food,” she said. “These are of- and Boise. ten customers who are shopping at multiple Watson urged vendors and consumers alike stores to achieve their food goals.” Share Farm to reach out and connect with the company. allows those customers to get all their pro- “We want to fill out our site with the goods duce and meat for the week, as well as other you’re looking for,” she said. “We want to sell products such as soap and toothpaste. “And with you, we want to work with you. We’re they do all that while supporting their local here to make it easy and we want to connect economy,” Watson said. you to an online marketplace.” 38
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what’s going up?
School’s in Session Western Washington University in Bellingham will open a new residence hall in fall 2021.
While campuses have been shuttered, construction projects have been booming written by Brian Johnson CORONAVIRUS MEANT an early end to in-person classes for thousands of students across Washington this year. But while students have been learning in online environments, many campuses have continued with facility improvements. In Bellingham, Western Washington University’s new residence hall is on target to open in fall 2021. The facility, which replaces Highland Hall on the campus, is expected to have 400 beds, more than doubling the old hall’s capacity. The school also has a 50,000-square-foot interdisciplinary science building under construction slated for a January 2022 opening. The projects are expected to total $131.5 million. According to the Bellingham Herald, in late March a construction worker on the residence hall project tested positive for the virus, stopping work for more than a month. And in the Tri-Cities, Washington State University is in the process of building a 40,000-square-foot academic building for its campus there. The project, which will have classrooms primarily for the sciences, is slated to cost $30.4 million and be completed in spring 2021.
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what i’m working on
A Big Year In 2016, Jen McKeirnan sought to identify 346 birds in Washington
Jen McKeirnan hit the road to photograph Washington’s birds.
interview by Sheila G. Miller
JEN MCKEIRNAN STARTED going on field trips with the Seattle Audubon back in 2007, then decided to take a master birding class in 2015. The next year, she made a big move—she took a year off work and set her sights on identifying and photographing 346 Washington birds featured in her master birding class. McKeirnan is a Boeing engineer, which may explain her approach to her “big year,” as birders often call these projects. She made an Excel spreadsheet which she color coded according to whether the birds could be seen seasonally or year-round, then prioritized by location and months. The result? Her website, www. wabirdyear.com, has an interactive map that shows where she saw the birds, as well as photos of them and their habitats. ALSO IN THIS ISSUE of birds, we’re taking care of How did you get into birding? ourselves. I think it was a friend who got See a selection of photos from me really interested in birdJen McKeirnan’s What were some of the ing around 2007, and I took Washington bird project on pg. 58. most unexpected spots you a class at Seattle Audubon ended up in Washington? titled Birding 101. I was walkOne of my favorite trips out was to ing around and the instructor was Protection Island. I didn’t realize that pointing out different species. It was we had tufted puffins here in the the aspect of awareness, that I hadn’t state. Protection Island is a protected really been aware of my surroundings. island, nobody is allowed to be on the He pointed out this brown creeper, a island or within 100 feet of it, but it’s small little bird with a white chest and amazing. You can take a boat from a curved bill. I remember walking away Sequim or from Port Townsend, and thinking I’d never seen it before and it’s not that far of a boat ride. BeI probably wouldn’t ever see it again, tween May and August these puffins and then every single time I went will be swimming around the island to the park I kept seeing that bird. and you can easily see them. They I’d just not been aware before. I’ve came within feet of our boat. always been fascinated with flying—I Another exciting place was in far work on airplanes at Boeing—and central Northern Washington, a ghost birds do this naturally. And they’re town that is still in really good shape also great at helping us identify when (called Molson). And then some of we have a problem in our environour wildlife refuges. The Ridgefield ment as well, and I appreciate having National Wildlife Refuge, the Kiwa clean air and clean water and birds Trail there is a hidden gem as well. need that, too. So if we’re taking care
Was there a bird you were surprised to find easily, or one that was harder to find than expected? The sooty grouse was a lot easier than I expected. I was hiking the Skyline Trail just above Paradise Lodge on Mount Rainier. It’s really popular because it’s a loop and it has spectacular views. The sooty grouse was just sitting right there on the edge of the trail. Most people would have walked right past it. The white-tailed ptarmigan is a bird I would still like to get a picture of. It’s a high-elevation bird. I’ve gone out on three different trips to locate them, especially where people have reported seeing them. The Northern waterthrush is a bird I went over to the very northeastern part of Washington state to look for. I spent well over two days looking for it and I couldn’t find it, so then I came back and a week later it was found in Discovery Park. Somebody showed me where it was located, and I got a great picture of it.
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my workspace
Ryan McCulloch started woodworking as a boy. He spent time in his grandfather’s shop, helping the avid woodworker with projects. “I was fascinated by the ability to build and make something out of raw materials,” he said. That fascination led him to engineering, in which he earned a Ph.D.
My Workspace
Engineering Beauty Ryan McCulloch takes his engineering background and creates woodworking magic written by Sheila G. Miller 42
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Today, he teaches biomechanics at Gonzaga University, and over the years he’s used his woodworking skills to make gifts for family and friends. At the start of 2020, McCulloch decided to take his work to the next level, establishing Snowy Ridge Designs. He handles five or six projects at a time—“I’m as busy as I’d like to be,” he said, laughing.
my workspace
“It’s an interesting dichotomy. A lot of my training for my Ph.D. is in the academic world, and it’s great, but there’s something so satisfying about being technical and working with your hands,” he said. “You really have to be constantly thinking of the multiple steps you’re going to take, and the cuts you’ll make and the order to do things in. It’s so rewarding to have something physical at the end of that process. Something you can take pride in, and that a client will have in their lives, maybe for generations.”
McCulloch primarily works with hardwoods he sources from local businesses in Spokane. He operates out of a shop he and his wife built on their property, and works with clients individually to come up with the perfect piece. “It starts with asking questions to try to get my head around what they’re looking for out of the piece, rather than what they think it should look like,” he said. “Often what they think it should look like doesn’t match what they’re looking for the piece to do or the presence it should have in the home.”
“I really like crisp, clean lines, so my style may be more on the modern contemporary side,” McCulloch said. “It’s not so much that I’m shooting for being modern, but I really appreciate the natural beauty in wood.” He wants the wood to speak for itself, for his pieces to show off the grain’s beauty. To that end, he doesn’t do a great deal of molding or staining.
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Sean Gutierrez/Ecotrust
game changer
Back to the Land
First Foods curricula provide Native people with education about their ancestral lands and traditions written by Sheila G. Miller MANY OF US have a family recipe tucked away somewhere in our kitchens (my grandma’s secret to strawberry jam? Double the sugar). Native tribes all over Washington similarly have food and medicine traditions. A five-year, $1.6 million National Science Foundation grant to the Swinomish tribe seeks to ensure those traditions are honored, cultivated and passed to the next generation. It’s the second such grant for the curriculum development. The first, a $300,000 grant in 2015, allowed the Swinomish Indian Tribal Community to develop the 13 Moons curriculum, which follows the traditional harvest calendar and teaches about First Foods—those that have long played a role in the culture. The curriculum, which incorporates science, technology, engineering and math, as well as traditional practices and culturally relevant lessons, is designed to be taught informally, outside of schools. Jamie Donatuto, an environmental health analyst for the Swinomish Indian Tribal Community and lead on the project, worked with others to develop the 13 Moons curriculum with a goal of bringing kids back onto the land and teaching them elders’ stories that can be passed down. At the same time, the curriculum seeks to teach young people how to harvest and prepare plants and animals in traditional ways. “That knowledge isn’t lost, but through generations of forced assimilation it’s been dormant,” she said. “You bring elders back out to the land and the stories started pouring forth. They hadn’t even remembered what they knew. It was powerful for youth to hear stories on the land.” In the process of developing the curriculum, the Swinomish learned that other Coast Salish tribes were doing much of the same work. The 2019 grant seeks to bring all of that knowledge together and allow those resources to be shared. It also will help educators create a toolkit and workshops for other groups to add this environmental education in their communities. The goal, for Donatuto, is for members from all interested tribes to be trained as certified wild food harvesters and be able to provide traditional foods and medicines to their communities. The Swinomish tribe, with about 800 members, is based in La Conner. The Coast Salish has dozens of tribes and more than 50,000 people around the Pacific Northwest. Elise Krohn is the wild plants and medicine program director at GRuB, an Olympia-based nonprofit dedicated to food justice and helping people access healthy and culturally appropriate food. One of Krohn’s main responsibilities is the Tend, Gather & Grow program, 44 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
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Salal berries are one of the foods featured in the curricula.
a K-12 curriculum designed to connect kids with plants, local places and cultural traditions. It’s similar to the Swinomish’s 13 Moons curriculum, which is why GRuB is one of the Swinomish tribe’s NSF grant partners. “This grant is about getting those educational resources out to tribal communities in order to help support community health and environmental health,” Krohn said. The curricula are designed as building blocks—each tribal community can add their own stories and language and cultural pieces specific to them. It’s also about tribal food sovereignty—that is, taking back resources for tribal foods and medicines and traditional technologies. “Indigenous people have been here for 10,000 years, at least, and one of the things we talk about a lot in our program is cultural ecosystems, places that native people have historically managed to maintain indigenous foods and other resources, like plants for traditional technologies—basketry and toolmaking and medicines,” Krohn said. “In the wake of colonization, European settlers didn’t realize that management, and because it’s so different from European styles of land management, it became a way to take over those lands, and indigenous people have lost access to their indigenous foods and really, to their food systems.” Krohn said that over the past two decades, she has seen tribes take an active part in trying to revitalize indigenous food knowledge and cultural practices. If the grant is a success, Krohn said, she expects to see tribal communities access educational resources that will empower them to cultivate their traditional food resources and, ultimately, support their health. “Ultimately that will support environmental health, physical and mental health, and just food access,” Krohn said. “Having access to good, nutritious, culturally relevant food, that people will feel connected to their land and their culture and their community.”
everyone needs a beach town
A place to relax, recreate, or contemplate. Ideally with a side of beer-battered fish and a locally brewed pint. Seaside is just such a place. Bursting with space and great sights to see, miles of sandy beaches and a grand promenade to stroll. So why not come and Seaside for yourself?
seasideOR.com
// North Cascades National Park is the perfect place to avoid crowds—it’s one of the country’s least-visited national parks. (photo: Tyler Roemer)
STAND OUT FROM THE
C R OW D IF YOU ARE HOPING TO EXTEND YOUR SOCIAL DISTANCE FOR THE FORESEEABLE FUTURE, CHECK OUT THESE WASHINGTON SPOTS written by Mike G. Christian
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So you say you need a change of scenery. We get it. But if going to a place like Disneyland conjures images of germs (All those people! All those door handles!), you can stay closer to home in Washington and avoid getting hives at the thought of being shoulder to shoulder with others. We scoured the state for the best places to get away from it all (and all the people), without losing that Washington charm.
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The variety of views in North Cascades National Park includes jagged mountains and too-blue lakes.
NORTH CASCADES NATIONAL PARK LET’S START with a national park. If you’ve ever tried to see the sights at Yellowstone or the Grand Canyon in the summer, you might think we’ve lost our minds recommending a park. But North Cascades National Park is remote enough to be one of the ten least-visited national parks in the country. In a normal year, that would be a shame—the park is spectacular and everyone should see it. This year, however, it’s great to know that fewer than 40,000 people make the
trek up to the northern part of the state. The park is about two and a half hours from Seattle, and it’s best to visit between mid-June and the end of September, when the snow is typically gone. The park is big—789 square miles— and has two units, one that stretches to the Canadian border and another that heads south to Lake Chelan. Two additional recreation areas add another nearly 300 square miles. You won’t find a lot of people, but you will find an outdoor paradise. Huge, jagged mountains hover over
PROSSER FOR SMALL-TOWN AMERICA with a dose of Western roots and a lot of wine without the crowds, look to Prosser. This city on the Yakima River sits unassumingly between the Tri-Cities and Yakima and is an agricultural center with a historic downtown. With a little more than 6,000 people living here, you’ll find a small, walkable downtown with plenty of options to alight to the surrounding area for some social-distanced fun. The city’s restored historic Princess Theatre is part of the charm—when it opens you’ll find culture here. If agriculture is more your speed, there are several alpaca farms nearby to check out. But what Prosser is truly known for is as the birthplace of Washington wine. Prosser has more than thirty wineries nearby, with names you may recognize—14 Hands and Columbia Crest—and others that have flown under the radar in favor of the more famous Walla Walla region. This is your opportunity to find great wine without the crowds. If you need a meal after your tastings, there are a variety of Mexican restaurants in town or the Horse Heaven Saloon & Brewery to switch it up.
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incredibly blue lakes, hilly trails leading to spots destined to be the background of your Christmas card photo and backcountry camping or rustic lodging for the anti-camper. Must-sees in and around the park include a trip through Lake Chelan to Stehekin (preferably by boat on the Lady of the Lake), a small community inaccessible by road; Diablo Lake (by overlook or by hike), and Ross Lake. If you can swing a stay at Ross Lake Resort, which nearly always has a waiting list, you’ll be treated to a floating cabin.
Prosser has an oldtimey downtown and outdoor events such as the Great Prosser Balloon Rally.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP White Salmon lies across the Columbia River from the more-visited Hood River, Oregon. If outdoor activity like rafting is on your dance card, White Salmon is a perfect jumping-off point. Watch windsurfers, or try it yourself, on the Columbia River. (photos: Tyler Roemer, ZooRaft.com, Tyler Roemer)
WHITE SALMON WHITE SALMON
has the distinction of being across the river from one of the more famous cities in the Pacific Northwest—Hood River, Oregon. Hood River gets a lot of attention for its windsurfers, beer and generally epic views. But the secret is that White Salmon has all the same aspects, without the crowds. This town is the ultimate jumping-off point for outdoor adventure, which gets you even farther from the next human. You can partake in outdoor pursuits in the White Salmon River, the Columbia River Gorge, the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, or the mountains nearby. You’ll want to beeline for Everybody’s Brewing, a favorite of locals and visitors alike—and you can get growlers to go if you’d prefer not to be stuck indoors with strangers. You can peruse the downtown quickly—with only about 2,200 permanent residents, there are a few good restaurants and stores to check out on the main street, but that’s about it. Then it’s off to explore the wilderness. Swing across the river to Hood River for a bike rental, then hit the mountain bike trails. If you’re an experienced kayaker, you’ll want to check out Northwestern Park, which has access to the White Salmon River’s waters. Or, if you’re more of an experienced wine taster, there are about a dozen nearby wineries that will keep you occupied for hours.
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DAYTON
FROM TOP Liberty Bay in Poulsbo has the charm of a European seaport. Poulsbo is known as Little Norway, and its quiet, charming downtown lives up to the hype. (photos: Shiloh Schroeder)
POULSBO WHEN YOU THINK of a city in Washington that mimics a European counterpart, you likely think of Leavenworth and its Bavarian theme. If the idea of crowds at Oktoberfest makes you itchy, try a different country—Poulsbo, in the Kitsap Peninsula, takes its cues from Norway. Tucked into Liberty Bay about an hour from Seattle, this area so reminded Norwegian and Scandinavian settlers of their home that they named it for the Norwegian town of Paulsbo. This spot is popular with visitors, so you might not find yourself completely without people around, but with a population of less than 11,000, you can count on quaint. The small city has an arts district, waterfront parks and a marina. Plus, the Scandinavian culture is on full display here. You’ll find Viking-themed detail in many of the shops and restaurants and storefronts, and the Little Norway historic downtown is picturesque. A must-see here is the SEA Discovery Center, when it reopens postcoronavirus. The aquarium, part of Western Washington University, has exhibits on local marine life and a tide pool replica. If boating or water sports are on the agenda, you’ll find Liberty Bay is a great place for kayaking or standup paddling. Finish your day with some fresh seafood and a beer or two from Valholl Brewing.
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THE PALOUSE and Walla Walla Country are known for being remote—sparsely populated, but not short on views or open spaces. Fewer than 2,500 people live here, and it is truly in rural Eastern Washington. The city has an important brewing claim to fame: Jacob Weinhard moved here in 1880 (via Portland, where he’d worked for his uncle’s brewery) and saw the potential for growing barley. He started the Jacob Weinhard Brewery here, and as a result, many of the city’s historic buildings are named for him. His Victorian home is on the National Register of Historic Places, and you’ll find his name on the Weinhard Cafe and the Weinhard Hotel. There are ninety homes in Dayton that are on the historic register, as well as a historic train depot that is the oldest remaining in the state. The city can feel a little like you’re traveling back in time. An added bonus is the many nearby wineries, the proximity to Palouse Falls—one of the wonders of Washington— and a fascinating recreation of a Lewis and Clark campsite with life-size metal silhouettes, 2 miles east of town. Dayton residents used journals to make sure every animal and human in the expedition are included in the installation. If fishing is your thing, you’ll find that this town, at the confluence of the Touchet River and Patit Creek, has many nearby options.
FROM TOP Dayton, in Eastern Washington, is near Palouse Falls, one of the wonders of the state. Dayton’s beautifully preserved architecture stands out, like this train depot.
Sequim is home to lavender fields and other places perfect for getting lost.
SEQUIM THE ENTIRE OLYMPIC PENINSULA is proof of the glory of the natural world—the
majesty of the mountains mixes with the blues of water and the greens of lush forest canopy. This area just never stops giving back to visitors. Sequim, perched on the northern edge of the peninsula, is a small city with big offerings. It is a place people like to visit, but you can still get away with so many options for hiking (both on the beach and in the forests), fishing, boating. It’s also a perfect place to get on your bike and hit the Olympic Discovery Trail, which will someday run from La Push in the west to Port Townsend in the east (currently there are unfinished sections, but Sequim is in the heart of a beautiful, complete section). The downtown is charming and you’ll want to check that out—but the real charm of Sequim and its surroundings are the fresh-air opportunities. Every year, Sequim holds a lavender festival. Even if you’re not around for that weekend event each July, head into the hills to find field after field of lavender farms. You can pick some to take home—and berries, too. If all this is still too much human interaction, head less than a half hour west and you’ll be in Olympic National Park, a diverse ecosystem with plenty of places to get lost—all alone. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
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RISING TO THE
CHALLENGE When coronavirus changed the shape of the world this spring, these businesses found small ways to help written by Sheila G. Miller illustrations by Allison Bye
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Life changed on January 19 this year, even if we didn’t initially realize it. That was the day a 35-year-old man walked into an urgent care clinic in Snohomish County with a fever and cough. He tested positive for COVID-19, the first known case in the United States. With that, Seattle became a ground zero for coronavirus, as the illness spread on a global scale, shutting schools and businesses and rendering communities ghost towns. But in all times of crisis and uncertainty, it’s important to look for the helpers, as Mister Rogers once said. In Washington, the helpers came in many forms— doctors and nurses who sacrificed their own health for the wellbeing of their patients, of course, but also small business owners and restaurateurs who found ways to keep delivering needed services, teachers who figured out how to engage students through their computer screens, and everyday people who assisted elderly neighbors and frazzled parents. We’ve always known that Washington is full of innovators. But in this crisis, their ingenuity has been on full display. We caught up with a few of the state’s best examples.
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WOODINVILLE WHISKEY
W
E LEARNED AN AWFUL LOT about our community’s purchasing practices during the early days of COVID-19. Out of toilet paper? Good luck. Interested in having some Clorox wipes or hand sanitizer on hand? Not likely. That’s where distilleries big and small, like Woodinville Whiskey, came in. In late March, the distillery started producing hand sanitizer and donating it to local health facilities and governmental agencies that needed it. Not small amounts, either. Each 500-gallon batch was made using World Health Organization and Federal Drug Administration guidelines. The project was a team effort. Arnie Omlin, a Quincy farmer who grows the grain for Woodinville Whiskey, donated all of the corn that was used to produce the distillery’s hand sanitizer. Other companies donated labels, design and cleaning efforts. The production and distilling took about a week—then Woodinville sent the product out in 5-gallon drums to medical centers, the state’s department of health, fire departments and senior living facilities. Through the “Sip While You SIP”
“Our calling has been to help folks realize that their neighbors include the people who serve and care for them in restaurants and hotels, instead of seeing them as invisible servants.” — KEVIN FINCH
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(shelter in place) program, people who bought whiskey at the tasting room or through the website also got a 12-ounce bottle of hand sanitizer for free.
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BIG TABLE
ONG BEFORE THE PANDEMIC, Big Table was helping those in the hospitality industry who needed a hand up—using a referral system, it helped people with a utility bill payment, a pair of work-appropriate shoes, maybe drug or alcohol counseling. “Our calling has been to help folks realize that their neighbors include the people who serve and care for them in restaurants and hotels, instead of seeing them as invisible servants,” said Kevin Finch, Big Table’s executive director. But when restaurants and hotels shut down, the nonprofit, which serves Seattle, Spokane and San Diego, suddenly had to shift into triage mode. Chris Deitz, Big Table’s Spokane director, said it changed overnight. “Upwards of 90 percent of all of these people were out of work, and because the industry includes more marginalized folks, the most vulnerable population, there are more of those folks who just don’t have a network, they don’t have the resources.” Deitz, Finch and the rest of Big Table’s staff sprung to action. The primary focus: housing stability and food insecurity. In 2019, the nonprofit received 310 referrals of people in need. So far in 2020, that number is greater than 880. In just three days in March, the nonprofit received 103 referrals for assistance. Throughout the pandemic, Big Table has provided grocery gift cards to people who needed food, rent and mortgage payments (checks cut directly to the property management company or bank), and utility payments. It also partnered with a produce company to provide boxes filled with healthy fruits and vegetables to families in need. Even people who sought government assistance sometimes needed a little help. Finch pointed to a bartender whose unemployment benefits were denied. The reason? The state had argued she could continue to work from her home. Before the pandemic, Big Table depended on individual donations, but also on businesses in the hospitality industry that donated to the cause. Those businesses suddenly found themselves unable to provide any funding. But, Finch said, people stepped up. “Literally hundreds of people we had no previous relationship with found us,” Finch said. “Businesses and foundations that were not even on our radar reached out to us and gave money.” He said people reached out to donate their entire stimulus check, or part of it—“People are saying, ‘I’m doing OK, and I know some people weren’t able to get a check,’” he said. “‘Make sure this money gets to them.’”
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The triage was a big shift for Big Table, which prides itself on its relationships with people—looking someone in the eye over a cup of coffee and drilling down to what the person needs to succeed. That couldn’t happen in a pandemic. And the crisis isn’t over, Finch warned. “Our concern is that the biggest need is yet to come in this industry. As the government support dwindles and somewhere between 20 and 40 percent of restaurants fail—they can’t come back, or they reopen and realize it doesn’t pencil out,” he said. “We’re looking at the fall being really brutal.” To that end, Deitz noted the nonprofit is shifting to another form of support—helping people who find their industry decimated get new jobs. That will come in the form of resume writing and other pieces that can help a former server market himself and get another gig.
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SAVOR SEATTLE
OR THIRTEEN YEARS, Savor Seattle has taken visitors and locals alike on food and cultural tours through the downtown Seattle area and Pike Place Market. For two hours, Angela Shen or a member of her team would guide people to a half-dozen restaurants and market stalls, sharing stories about the entrepreneurs and restaurateurs who make Seattle a foodie capital. Overnight, Shen went from running a top-rated attraction with thousands of shining Yelp reviews to having no one to guide and nowhere to show them. Her office was flooded with refund requests. But Shen wasn’t about to quit. “We realized, well, if we can’t bring people to Pike Place Market, how about we bring the market to people instead? To their doorstep?” Shen said. The weekend of March 22, the company started beta testing market boxes filled with treats from nine market vendors. It sold forty-eight boxes, donating $5 from each sale to the Pike Place Market Safety Net Fund, designed to help residents and employees of the market who are struggling. By Mother’s Day, Savor Seattle was selling 1,200 boxes a week and shipping them all over the country. By late June, the company had sold more than 7,000 boxes and donated more than $35,000 to the foundation. In response to the Black Lives Matter protests that swept the nation beginning in June, the company also created a Seattle Solidarity box in support of black-owned businesses—those raised more than $13,000 for the BLM Fund in King County in a month. The market boxes proved so popular that Savor Seattle for five weeks used Aerlume, a temporarily shuttered restaurant in Pike Place Market, as a staging area for assembling the boxes. “I think it’s a real testament to small businesses leaning in in a time of crisis to help create and enable solutions that would never have been able to be doable on their own,” Shen said, pointing to the hospitality groups, graphic designers
“I think it’s a real testament to small businesses leaning in in a time of crisis to help create and enable solutions that would never have been able to be doable on their own. … It really took, and continues to take, small businesses coming together.” — ANGELA SHEN
SAVOR SEATTLE FOUNDER AND CEO
and tech companies that provided assistance on the project. “It really took, and continues to take, small businesses coming together.” And now, though things are opening back up, Shen plans to continue selling the boxes. She knows that her tours, when they are able to restart, won’t look the same. “We’ll continue to be ambassadors of the Seattle food scene,” she said. “But no matter what, forever and ever, we’re going to be living this box life in some capacity. And we have a desire that every box that we curate and launch will have some philanthropic tie.” Boxes featuring Latinx-owned companies, minority femaleowned companies and those owned by Asian-Americans could be forthcoming. “There’s so much there, and we’re fortunate that we have a platform, and because we can, then we should,” she said. “There’s money to be made, and we’re trying to survive, but knowing that in fourteen weeks we helped provide $750,000 in direct sales to over fifty small businesses within the Seattle community? I feel good about that. It’s my small part.” AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
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FOR THE BIRDS photography by Jen McKeirnan JEN MCKEIRNAN GREW UP in Washington, but when she took her “Big Year” in 2016, she found herself in corners of the state she’d never seen. The Boeing engineer started birding back in 2007, and was immediately struck by how, if you pay attention, you’ll see all kinds of species around you. “I probably could have gone to a single park and collected over fifty birds in one day,” she said. But she wanted to see all of Washington’s 346 birds in their traditional habitats, so she packed up and took her camera along to document her adventure. The result is a meticulously organized website, www. wabirdyear.com, as well as lots of stories. She set out a variety of rules for her year—for example, she collected identifiable photos of the birds, a panoramic photo of the location where she saw the bird (public locations only—no backyards or private lands), and she only used ethical bird photography to prevent undue stress on the birds. McKeirnan urges others to go on their own big year. “I was just thinking that during this pandemic timeframe, when people are itching to get out of the house, this is such a great way to stay safe and just explore your area,” she said. “When I was outside, I not only encountered birds but also mammals I’d never seen before. That was equally exciting to see. Big years are also kind of fun, too.” A big year can take place in your backyard or local park—or you can go big, throughout the United States or the world.
Sooty Grouse Location: Mount Rainier
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Pygmy Nuthatch Location: Spokane Valley
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Tufted Puffin Location: Protection Island
Green Heron Location: Bothell
Bushtit Location: Point No Point County Park
Wilson’s Snipe Location: Tonasket
Long-billed Curlew Location: Othello
Western Meadowlark Location: Quincy
Bohemian Waxwing Location: Okanogan
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Ruffed Grouse Location: Okanogan
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 66 ADVENTURE 68 LODGING 70 TRIP PLANNER 72
pg. 72 Methow Valley’s Sun Mountain Lodge is just one of the special places perfect for a visit.
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travel spotlight
Art, Outside John Brooks
Monarch Sculpture Park near Olympia has sculpture and gardens written by Kate Sweeney YOUR ENTERTAINMENT OPTIONS in 2020 may be limited, but this summer and fall are the perfect time to make a list of all the outdoor spots you’ve been meaning to check out. Put the Monarch Sculpture Park at the top of the list. The Olympia-area park, featuring contemporary sculpture, is open to the public every day from dawn until dusk. It was started in 1994 by sculptor Myrna Orsini. The 80-acre property 10 miles south of Olympia also features a ceramic and sculpting studio. The center traditionally hosts an annual sculpture exhibit and adds new work throughout the year. Artwork is sold, and the sculpture park takes a commission to help with its operating budget. The facility is currently undergoing extensive renovations, but the grounds remain wonderful. There are more than 100 sculptures, as well as a number of gardens—a Japanese garden, a bird and butterfly garden, even a sound garden that has sculptural musical instruments to play. A butterfly-shaped hedge maze is being restored to its previous glory. If your plans call for a ride along the Chehalis Western Bike Trail, it will take you to the park’s front entrance. Access is bike or walk-in only. Bring your dog on a leash, and prepare to maintain social distance and provide your own hand sanitizer if possible. Entrance is free but donations are accepted.
More than 100 sculptures dot the landscapes of the Monarch Sculpture Park.
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adventure
TRIP TIPS • Wear a life vest and any other safety gear as necessary. • Pick a trip that fits your skills— first-timer? A calm lake is your best option. • Check water temperature and weather— in the summer, weather can change quickly, and mountain-fed lakes and streams will stay cold. Don’t put yourself in a situation you can’t get out of. • Make sure someone knows where you went and when you plan to return. Better yet, take a buddy with you.
The San Juan Islands are the perfect backdrop for kayaking, a great social-distancing activity.
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adventure
From a (Social) Distance
Dust off your kayak and head for the water— it’s time to put some fun back in summer
Anacortes Kayak Tours
written by Sheila G. Miller I WAS NERVOUS the first time I went kayaking. I may have grown up in the Pacific Northwest, but my outdoors time was usually structured— confined to the edges of a soccer field or the walls of a pool. As I got older, I took up the requisite Northwest hobbies of hiking and hitting the slopes, but the water remained elusive. I worried, for starters, because I’m a worrier, but also because I’m not a strong swimmer. Plus, I somehow envisioned that I’d be expected to do all the maneuvering of an expert whitewater kayaker—with none of the skills. Then I put my kayak in the water, and the worry disappeared. My husband had picked a quiet, flat lake with water so clear I could see the sandy bottom. We paddled around small islands and marshes, and I found the paddling motion easy to sort out. No swimming or whitewater was ever on the menu, and I realized that one of the best exercises for eliminating worry is getting outdoors, on a placid lake, and using a repetitive movement to cut through water. I was hooked. Here’s the good news: Washington is run through with rivers and lakes suitable for you to access for this destressing practice. With a few simple tools and a little practice, you’ll be well on your way. Bonus—being in a kayak basically forces you into social distancing, so if you’re concerned about your health, this is the perfect outdoor activity. There are tons of local-owned shops eager to help you get on the water, either as part of a tour or on your own with a rental. Blaine DeWalt, the owner-operator of Ballard Kayak, said his Seattle location south of Golden Gardens
Park beach is a perfect spot for beginner and intermediate kayakers. The area, DeWalt said, has interesting sea life, and in a rental kayak you can go far. “They can rent kayaks and paddle on their own, exploring Shilshole Bay and the surrounding area, and even paddle to Discovery Park and the West Point lighthouse,” he said. “It’s hard to tell you’re in a major U.S. city when you’re paddling out here with us.” DeWalt also suggested a Ballard Kayak tour, especially the one that takes kayakers through the nearby Hiram M. Chittenden Locks. In the San Juans, Erik Schorr of Anacortes Kayak Tours and Blue Otter Outfitters said Fidalgo Island has dozens of great spots. “For beginners, there are a couple of lakes that can be fun to explore for a couple of hours,” Schorr said. “Heart Lake and Little Cranberry Lake are nestled in our Anacortes Community Forestlands and offer very protected waters for people to enjoy.” The outfitter rents sit-on-top kayaks, paddleboards and regular kayaks in Bowman Bay for beginners to go out on the sea. The bay, in Deception Pass State Park, has a lot of turbulent water near the bridge, but there are protected places where beginners will feel comfortable. Schorr recommended those with more experience and an understanding of tides and currents to paddle around Burrows and Allan islands, or go with the tour company on a guided excursion there. He also recommended those interested in improving their kayak skills seek out Body Boat Blade International, a school that’s been around for decades and which offers classes for all skill levels.
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lodging
ACCOMMODATIONS With only six rooms, your stay at Comforts of Whidbey is an intimate experience. Each room features a view of either the Puget Sound or the vineyards, a king-sized bed, luxury shower, wifi and a comfy robe (you won’t find a TV here). The rooms have access to a shared kitchenette area with snacks and everything you need for an evening cup of coffee. The property is adults only, with no pets allowed.
DINING CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Comforts of Whidbey has six rooms, plus a tasting room downstairs. The on-site winery makes special German varietals. The estate recently began growing pinot noir grapes.
Lodging
Comforts of Whidbey written by Cara Strickland THOUGH YOU’RE SURROUNDED by nature (and grapevines) at this family-owned boutique bed and breakfast, it’s only a short drive from the center of Langley, making it the perfect base for those looking to explore and decompress on Whidbey Island. The winery and tasting room downstairs doesn’t hurt, either. 5219 VIEW ROAD LANGLEY www.comfortsofwhidbey.com
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Checking in, you’ll be welcomed with a flight of wine and a cheese plate, just a glimpse of the hospitality to come. Each morning, breakfast is cooked with the intention of fueling guests for wine tasting, exploring the outdoors or wandering the charming town of Langley. You’ll taste all sorts of local produce, including some things grown right on the property.
WINERY Whether you’re staying, or just want to visit, it’s worth dropping into the tasting room for a sip of the specialties. Although you’ll find some familiar flavors on offer—syrah, cabernet sauvignon, malbec and some blends—the wine grown on the estate might give you the opportunity to try something new: Madeleine Angevine, Siegerrebe, and Madeleine Sylvaner are bottled on their own, in blends and in sparkling versions. These German varietals were a legacy of the property, now lovingly tended and made into wine by the Comforts. They also grow pinot noir on the estate, which should make its way into some vintages soon.
Puyallup Great Art and So Much More!
Visit Puyallup’s Outdoor Gallery Like Us
– Puyallup, WA –
artsdowntown.org
trip planner
Fly-fishing is one of many activities available in the Methow Valley.
Peaks and Valleys Remote hiking and cozy cocktailing in Washington’s Methow Valley written by Kevin Max
Cascade Loop
TRUE, METHOW VALLEY’S best season is winter, when its 120 miles of Nordic ski trails are groomed for skiers to kick and glide through the valley floor and along the Methow River. This little region turns out some of the top junior Nordic skiers in the country. But during fall, the region is also a remote and beautiful place to hike, fish or run, while respectfully observing local rules for social distancing and mask wearing. At the top of the Methow Valley, Winthrop, population of 451, was founded as a mining town after the U.S. government in 1886 revoked the land that had been federally designated for Chief Moses and the Columbia River Indians. Because of its remote location and its mountainous terrain, Methow Valley was never going to be the California gold rush. Scant amounts of gold were found in the Methow River, but enough prospectors descended on the area to turn a profit for Guy Waring, owner of startup Methow Trading Company and later known as Winthrop’s founder. Waring’s family home, known then as the Waring Castle, became the Shafer Museum, which sits along the main street of Winthrop’s charming downtown, alongside many buildings preserved from its early mining days. The same reason that Methow Valley would fail as a mining operation would make it a success as a remote getaway.
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Cascade Loop
OCTC
trip planner
FROM TOP The Methow Valley is a sight to behold, summer or winter. The Old Schoolhouse Brewery has brews and views. Arrowleaf Bistro focuses on local cuisine.
Day GETTING OUT • HIKING • COCKTAILS After months in quarantine, we all have a pent-up urgency to get back out on trails, to explore and to find a quiet place to fish. There are countless trails to hike in the region. The Methow Valley Ranger District lists more than 1,000 trails in the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. The eastern entrance to North Cascades National Park and Mazama, the northernmost town in the Methow Valley, is just 15 miles up Highway 20. Because you’ve been cooped up so long, you may have to go big in the nearby Pasayten Wilderness. Billy Goat Pass or Hidden Lakes Trail are accessed from the same trailhead and offer more difficult hiking with great views of peaks and wildflowers. This requires a Northwest Forest Pass and a no-fee wilderness permit issued at the trailhead. Or play it a little safer with the in-town Methow Trails or the 3.2-mile Cedar Falls Trail and its view of waterfalls along the
way. Not far from the Mazama Store (a model of perfection in the valley), this is an easy and scenic hike. To experience the duality of life in a mountain town, clean up nicely, dress and go for a pre-dinner cocktail at Copper Glance. The ambience is that of a small, tidy country lodge buzzing with a conversation at every small table. The Gardener’s Gimlet with lime, cucumber and basil over Beefeater London dry gin is a good way to come back in from the trails. Though you could do well to stay at Copper Glance for small bites, Arrowleaf Bistro will have dishes commensurate with your big day on the trails. Because Winthrop is remote, restaurateurs are more inclined to rely on local proteins and produce. The goods of local farmers and ranchers fill the menu of Arrowleaf Bistro, from its steak frites to its house salad. There’s also Old Schoolhouse Brewery for locally brewed beer and pub fare. If you can score a table on the back deck overlooking the Methow River, that is the way to go.
Day BOOKS • READING • WRITING Winthrop doesn’t have the literary history of Paris, yet sometimes all it takes is a spark for writers to fall into a place. Guy Faring reportedly persuaded his Harvard classmate and friend, Owen Wister, to take his honeymoon in Winthrop in 1898. Some say it was here that the Bostonian found inspiration for his 1902 book, The Virginian, known as the first Western novel. Bring a hammock, a thermos of coffee from Rocking Horse Bakery, walk down to the banks of the Methow or Chewuch rivers, and find a place with ample trees, where a breeze keeps bugs at bay and the whisper of a riffle keeps the rest of the world away. This gives you a quiet place to read and the mindspace for your own writing. If you need a new book, Winthrop has a little indie bookstore with smart readers at its heart. Trail’s End Bookstore on downtown’s Riverside Avenue is a significant token of civilization in this town of 451 people. If you’re looking for local inspiration, pop into the North Cascades Smokejumper Base between Twisp and Winthrop. This is the birthplace of American fire jumping, beginning with a 1939 experiment that proved firefighters could safely parachute into wildfires and fight it from the inside. June through October 1, visitors can tour the working fire jumper base seven days a week for free. Tonight, it’s off to Twisp for dinner, 9 miles south of Winthrop. For a tiny town, Twisp has two top-notch restaurants. Tappi, a small, intimate Italian restaurant with homemade pasta and a good wine selection is on par with the best. Newcomer Linwood is a modern Asian restaurant, with a comfort bent (Korean fried chicken, Thai fried ribs) in a cool space. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
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Arrowleaf Bistro, Winthrop www.arrowleafbistro.com
Stehekin Valley Ranch
EAT Campbell’s Pub & Veranda, Chelan www.campbellsresort.com Copper Glance, Winthrop www.copperglancewinthrop.com Linwood Restaurant, Twisp www.linwoodtwisp.com Local Myth Pizza, Chelan www.localmythpizza.com Old Schoolhouse Brewery, Winthrop www.oldschoolhousebrewery.com Rocking Horse Bakery, Winthrop www.rockinghorsebakery.com Tappi, Twisp www.tappitwisp.com
STAY Campbell’s Resort, Chelan www.campbellsresort.com Methow River Lodge, Winthrop www.methowriverlodge.com Sun Mountain Lodge, Winthrop www.sunmountainlodge.com
Campbell’s Resort
METHOW VALLEY, WASHINGTON
trip planner
Earth & Sky Studios
PLAY Campbell’s Resort, Chelan www.campbellsresort.com Hiking in the OkanoganWenatchee National Forest www.fs.usda.gov/okawen Sun Mountain Lodge, Winthrop www.sunmountainlodge.com Wine tasting in Chelan www.lakechelan.com/drink/ wine-tasting
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Lake Chelan is a remote must-see. Karma Vineyards and other wineries in the Lake Chelan AVA offer tastings. Campbell’s Pub & Veranda overlooks the lake.
Day CHELAN • WINE • SERENITY • UNEXPECTED HISTORY On the final day, grab a breakfast sandwich from Rocking Horse Bakery and head farther down the valley to Chelan, where Lake Chelan flows into the river of the same name. This area is also home to the Lake Chelan AVA and more than thirty wineries and their tasting rooms on the banks of the lake. Another way to experience local wines is to pop into Local Myth Pizza downtown for lunch and hand-tossed thin-crust pizzas. Or try Campbell’s Pub & Veranda overlooking Lake Chelan. The wine list includes many local wines to go with the truffle burger, lamb burger and the views.
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Before you get in the car, take a nice stroll along Chelan’s Riverwalk Park and a piece of history. Riverwalk Loop in the park is a one-mile loop between two bridges that span the Chelan River. Take a peek at the nearby St. Andrews Episcopal Church, a 1898-built log church on the National Historic Register and built by Karl Gunnar Malmgren, a Swedish immigrant who built in the traditional style of decorative arts. In addition to designing many private homes in Spokane, where he lived, Malmgren also designed the Tudor-style Rainier Club in Seattle, which is also on the National Historic Register.
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Rebel With a Cause
Visit Oregon’s rebellious roots with an Oregon road trip written by Lee Lewis Husk & Kevin Max
OREGON HAS ALWAYS been a place for independent thinkers, those who wanted to do things their own way. Most travel is out right now, but a tour of the places Oregon’s rebels made special is an easy hop over the border.
1) Oswald West POLITICAL REBEL A young, brash Oswald West was elected governor in 1911, hell bent on saving the coastline from development, granting women the right to vote and stamping out booze from “lawless” mining outposts. The 38-year-old declared martial law in 1913 and sent National Guard troops to Copperfield near Baker City to prevent saloons from selling alcohol. In 1912, he convinced the Legislature to join seven other Western states and territories in passing some of the country’s earliest voting rights for women. But his enduring legacy was saving the beaches from development, which had already claimed 23 miles of tideland. In
1913, he proposed that the Legislature declare the wet sand between high and low tides a public highway, border to border, for transportation purposes. Fifty years later, the Legislature etched the early version into permanency by passing the Oregon Beach Bill, ensuring no one can ever post signs that say “Stay Out, Private Property.” The best place to appreciate West’s legacy is the state park named for him. Two hours from Portland, south of Cannon Beach, Oswald West State Park features a rainforest ecosystem, miles of sandy beaches, tidal pools and clifftop views of the Pacific Ocean. Spend a day at Short Sand Beach or hike through trails of towering Western red cedars, hemlock and Sitka spruce trees. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
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PLAN YOUR TRIP
NORTHERN OREGON COAST EAT + DRINK Timberline Lodge
The Bistro www.thebistrocannonbeach.com Cannon Beach Hardware and Public House www.cannonbeachhardware.com
STAY Arch Cape Inn and Retreat www.archcapeinn.com Nehalem Bay State Park camping www.stateparks.oregon.gov
Timberline Lodge is a gorgeous example of Oregon ingenuity, at almost 6,000 feet.
2) Sam Barlow PIONEER AND TRAILBLAZER
MT. HOOD EAT + DRINK Mt. Hood Brewing Co. www.mthoodbrewing.com
STAY Timberline Lodge www.timberlinelodge.com Best Western Mt. Hood Inn www.bestwestern.com
SOUTHERN OREGON WINE COUNTRY EAT + DRINK Mustard Seed Café, Jacksonville www.bit.ly/2ZkcHMa Jacksonville Inn Dinner House www.jacksonvilleinn.com/ restaurant
STAY Wine Country Inn, Jacksonville www.winecountryinn jacksonville.com Magnolia Inn, Jacksonville www.magnolia-inn.com
Arriving in The Dalles in 1845 after traveling 2,000 miles overland from Missouri, Sam Barlow found himself in the second-most difficult position of his life: pay passage to portage his wagons down the Columbia River or remain on the east side of the Cascade Mountains and not reach his destination in the Willamette Valley. Barlow (who was convicted of killing a man in Indiana with an ax but later pardoned by the governor) couldn’t afford river fare, so he posed a radical idea: build a route around Mount Hood. Barlow scouted the southern flank of the peak, climbing to 9,000 feet for a view over the forest canopy. Satisfied he could succeed, he and fellow immigrants cut a trail through the thick forest and made their way to Oregon City. Barlow got permission from the provisional legislature to construct a toll road, which quickly became known as the Barlow Road. The 80-mile road opened in 1846, becoming the last overland segment of the Oregon Trail, a major gateway for the thousands of settlers to come. The wagons are long gone, but their ruts remain for hikers and mountain bikers who follow the historic Barlow Road (roughly parallel with U.S. Highway 26 southeast of Government Camp) in dense old-growth forest and steep hillsides. Soak up history, art and architecture at the magnificent Timberline Lodge, a National Historic Landmark at 5,960 feet. End the day savoring some old-style ales at Mt. Hood Brewing Co. in Government Camp.
3) Peter Britt WINE PIONEER Although his name is synonymous with a modern-day music festival, Peter Britt was best known 76
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as a nineteenth-century photographer and horticulturist who opened the Northwest’s first winery. After emigrating from Switzerland, he settled in the gold mining town of Jacksonville. He stubbornly carried 300 pounds of photographic equipment with him over the Oregon Trail. When gold mining didn’t pan out, he turned to photographic portraits but quickly expanded into landscapes, taking the earliest known photograph of Crater Lake. An accomplished horticulturist, he planted pear and peach orchards, even cultivating exotic trees like banana, gingko and jasmine. To protect his trees from frost, he was among the first users of smudge pots. Britt correctly judged the Rogue Valley’s Mediterranean climate perfect for grape cultivation and started Valley View Winery in 1858. A century ahead of his time, Britt’s early cultivation of grape vines stopped with his death in 1905. It would be post-prohibition winemakers of the 1960s that reestablished the industry in Southern Oregon. Drive the back road between Grants Pass and Jacksonville (Oregon 238) and step into any number of family-owned wineries along the Applegate Wine Trail. Try the bubbles at John Michael Champagne Cellars or the Spanish tempranillo at Red Lily Vineyards. Enjoy Plaisance Ranch, which produces both wine and organic grass-fed beef, or stop at Schmidt Family Vineyard for estate-grown wine with wood-fire pizzas. Finish up at Britt’s namesake winery, Valley View, and sample the blended Rogue Red.
4) Ken Kesey ANTI-ESTABLISHMENT WRITER AND REBEL Born in 1935, Ken Kesey came of age between the beat generation of the 1950s and the hippies of the 1960s. The anti-establishment beatnik intellectuals
northwest destination
and the free-love, drug-using, antiwar generation fueled Kesey’s legendary career as a novelist and the much-touted (or scorned) Merry Pranksters, known for acid (LSD) tests and mentorship of the Grateful Dead. After graduating from the University of Oregon in 1957, he entered a creative writing fellowship at Stanford University and began work on One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, published in 1962. The book was inspired by his job on the night shift at Menlo Park Veterans’ Hospital, where he supplemented his income by participating in government studies on psychedelic drugs and reputably talking with patients about their lives while high. His second novel, Sometimes a Great Notion, about Oregon logging, was published in 1964. Both novels won critical acclaim and were made into movies filmed in Oregon. The books and writings that followed explored themes of personal freedom versus conformity and etched his reputation as one of the Northwest’s most insightful and influential novelists. Eugene’s location in the heart of Oregon offers abundant choices for visitors, from sporting events at the University of Oregon and performing arts to farmers markets, vegan cafes, craft beer, wineries and green spaces. Democrats and independent voters outnumber Republicans almost three to one, bolstering its reputation as a liberal enclave. Soak up history at Luckey’s Club, one of the state’s oldest bars and featuring the Grateful Dead Family Jam every Thursday. Arrive early at the city’s oldest vegetarian and vegan breakfast favorite, Morning Glory Café. Order biscuits smothered in tantric mushroom gravy.
5) Chief Joseph FIGHTER, DIPLOMAT AND NEGOTIATOR The peaceful knoll containing the gravesite of Old Chief Joseph (Tuekakas) overlooks the ancestral home of the Nez Perce around Wallowa Lake and the Wallowa Mountains. But the site belies a violent and tragic chapter in Oregon’s history of broken promises, betrayals and war on Native peoples. The old chief died in 1871, leaving his son Joseph (Heinmot Tooyalakekt) to navigate turbulent times ahead. In 1877, the conflict escalated between settlers who moved into the area during the 1860s gold rush and the Nez Perce, resulting in deaths on both sides. Forced to flee, Chief Joseph
led 600 Nez Perce 1,400 miles toward the Canadian border, but they were eventually caught and exiled to a reservation in Oklahoma. Over the ensuing years, Joseph earned a reputation as a diplomat and negotiator, pleading his case in the national press and with politicians, including President Rutherford Hayes. In 1885, the government returned some members to the Nez Perce reservation in Idaho but the rest, including Chief Joseph, went to the Colville Reservation in Washington. Joseph never gave up the fight to return his people to Eastern Oregon. He died in 1904 in Colville, but his spirit permeates the land of his ancestors. Joseph, an outpost in remote northeastern Oregon, surprises visitors with its vibrant art scene, dining options and Arrowhead Chocolates— some of the tastiest coffees, teas and chocolates found anywhere. Beyond Joseph is serene Wallowa Lake surrounded by the rugged peaks of the Wallowa Mountains and Eagle Cap Wilderness, often referred to as the Little Switzerland of America. Cycle the open roads or ride the Wallowa Lake Tramway to the top of Mount Howard. Stop in at the Discovery Center for a look at the “wild science of the Wallowa Country.”
PLAN YOUR TRIP
EUGENE EAT + DRINK Luckey’s Club (temporarily closed due to COVID-19) www.luckeysclub.com Morning Glory Café www.morninggloryeugene.com
STAY Inn at the 5th www.innatfifth.com The Campbell House Inn www.campbellhouse.com
JOSEPH EAT + DRINK The Dog Spot www.lovethedogspot.com Vali’s Alpine Restaurant www.valisrestaurant.com
STAY Wallowa Lake Lodge www.wallowalakelodge.com Eagle Cap Wilderness camping www.fs.usda.gov
6) Black jazz in Portland THE NORTH WILLIAMS AVENUE SOUL The year was 1945 and North Williams Avenue, or “the Black Broadway,” was the heart of the AfricanAmerican community and a worldly jazz scene. Clubs such as the Savoy, Lil’ Sandy’s and the Frat Hall were a few of the most prominent. Sherman Pickett and Pat Patterson, owners of The Dude Ranch on North Williams Avenue, were known as Pic and Pat and for their ability to bring outsize jazz acts to their little club. So perhaps they took it in stride that they had just booked a jazz ensemble that included Roy Eldridge, Al McKibben and the young Thelonious Monk. This neighborhood was razed in the ’60s for renewal projects such as Memorial Coliseum. Portland’s jazz scene, and all of those who lived nearby, suffered a cultural loss from which it has never recovered. Today, the music is alive in venues such as the underground speakeasy Jack London Revue on SW 4th Avenue and at the handsome and historic The Benson on SW Broadway. It may not have the same soul as North Williams, but you can catch world-class talent here on select nights. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020
PORTLAND EAT + DRINK Jack London Revue www.jacklondonrevue.com The Benson www.bensonhotel.com Clyde’s Prime Rib www.clydesprimerib.com
STAY The Benson www.bensonhotel.com Hi-Lo Hotel www.hi-lo-hotel.com
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1889 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889. Oroville
Bellingham Friday Harbor Mount Vernon
Olympic National Park
Okanogan
Port Townsend
Aberdeen
Newport
Marysville Everett Seattle
Wilbur Waterville
Bellevue
Port Orchard
Shelton
Colville
Coupeville
Port Angeles Forks
Republic
North Cascades National Park
Tacoma
Spokane Davenport
Renton Kent Federal Way
Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville
Montesano Olympia
Mount Rainier N.P.
Ellensburg Colfax
Chehalis
South Bend
Yakima Pomeroy Richland
Kelso
Cathlamet
Longview
Prosser
Pasco
Dayton
Asotin
Walla Kennewick Walla
Goldendale Vancouver
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Stevenson
Live
Think
Explore
17 Amaro’s Table
38 Share Farm
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Monarch Sculpture Park
19 Cugini Italian Import Foods
40 Western Washington University
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Blue Otter Outfitters
20 Sidhu Farms
41 Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge
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Comforts of Whidbey
32 Gig Harbor Canoe & Kayak racing team
42 Snowy Ridge Designs
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Shafer Museum
34 Urban ArtWorks
44 Swinomish Indian Tribal Community
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Oswald West State Park, Oregon
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Until Next Time Howard Lake in the North Cascades photo courtesy of Stehekin Valley Ranch
UNPLUG. BREATHE. STROLL. REPEAT.
There’s a place a short ferry ride from downtown Seattle where you can reconnect with nature and with yourself. Bloedel Reserve—150 acres of gardens, meadows, forests, water, wildlife, and comfortable walking trails designed especially for slowing down and breathing deep. Come discover what a walk in the woods can do.
Book your escape today bloedelreserve.org/tickets Admission to the Reserve is by online timed tickets. Grounds open at 10 AM, Tuesday through Sunday. The Reserve is closed Monday. Visit our website for complete details about admission, health and safety protocols, and more.
OPEN YEAR ROUND. TUESDAY-SUNDAY. RAIN OR SHINE. | bloedelreserve.org | 206-842-7631
Continue for Special Inserts
THE BEST OF
CENTRAL
OREGON 2020/2021
Why Central Oregon? WHAT IS IT ABOUT CENTRAL OREGON THAT MAKES IT THE PERFECT GETAWAY? The landscape here is what most people dream about when picturing the Pacific Northwest and mountains. The peaks of the Cascade Range—Mount Bachelor, Three Sisters, Broken Top, Mount Jefferson, Mount Washington, Three Fingered Jack—create a snow-capped seam throughout the region. Below them are thousands of hectares of national forest and high Alpine lakes feeding the pristine rivers that include the Deschutes, the Metolius, the Crooked and the Whychus. The Central Oregon high desert climate basks the region in sunshine for the vast majority of days each year. Humidity is negligible, and makes for warm dry days and cool nights that are comfortable for exploring trails during days and retiring with a craft beer or cocktail around a fire at night. The natural landscape and climate of Central Oregon opens up a world of possibilities. Hikers, trail runners and mountain bikers hit the hundreds of trails from Jefferson Wilderness to the Ochoco National Forest and Deschutes National Forest. For families looking for more laidback options, strolling the shops of the Old
Mill District or our classic downtowns are favorites among visitors. The lakes and rivers are the playground for boaters, anglers, floaters and standup paddlers. The warm and dry weather allows for ideal golf conditions during the summer and fall. The elevation of Central Oregon provides for deep mountain snow every winter for Alpine and Nordic skiing as well as fat-tire snow biking. Though Central Oregon enjoys all of the benefits of being insulated from the world by huge national forests, our dining scene is creative and cosmopolitan. Star chefs from around the world have come to the region to make their mark with ingredients sourced locally to create dishes admired globally. Probably the top attraction of Central Oregon is the Central Oregon lifestyle. The birthplace of the craft beer industry, Bend and Central Oregon have more than 30 innovative breweries. We believe in being polite on the trails, treating everyone with respect and following best practices for staying safe and acknowledging the safety of others. We work hard and play hard. We’re thankful for the resources in Central Oregon that allow us to do both and thrive. Then we celebrate together at the end of the day with the work of a local craft brewer. Enjoy!
INSIDE ITINERARIES There's a perfect Central Oregon day for every type of traveler. 03 First-timers 04 Outdoors 06 Dining 07 Golf 08 Kids
ADVENTURE GUIDE Check out our picks for getting the most out of Central Oregon. 09 Lodging, Resorts & Spas 10 Eat & Drink 10 Outdoors 11 Shopping 11 Arts & Culture
A publication of Statehood Media with Visit Central Oregon. For more information about Visit Central Oregon or to become a member, call 800.800.8334, visit us online at visitcentraloregon.com, or stop in to the Regional Visitor Center, located at 57100 Beaver Drive, Bldg 6, Suite 130, P.O. Box 4489, Sunriver, OR 97707. Join our social media community and share your experiences with us at #visitcentraloregon. Facebook: www.facebook.com/visitcentraloregon Twitter: @VisitCentralOR Instagram: @visitcentraloregon
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GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 2020/2021
www.visitcentraloregon.com
First-Timers
ITINERARIES
Smith Rock is an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise and a climbing mecca.
IT’S YOUR FIRST TIME IN CENTRAL OREGON? Lucky you! You get to explore one of the Pacific Northwest’s premier outdoor wonderlands and indulge with innovative food and drink, and luxury lodging. For a first visit, be sure to stay at one of Central Oregon’s top destination resorts—Sunriver and Black Butte Ranch each have a storied history spanning decades and plenty of family-friendly options, while Tetherow is a sleek option right on the edge of Bend and at the door to the Deschutes National Forest. Or go farther afield to Pronghorn Resort, which accurately describes itself as “living well, perfected.” Once you’ve chosen your accommodations, start checking off Central Oregon bucket-list items. If you’re a beer buff, take a guided tour at Deschutes Brewery to learn more about how the craft beer scene got its start in Central Oregon, then visit a few
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of the city’s two dozen breweries. If you’re more of an outdoor enthusiast, don’t miss a trip to Smith Rock State Park north of Redmond, a climber’s and hiker’s paradise with impressive rock faces and the gorgeous Crooked River meandering through. Rent a mountain bike and find dozens of trails in the forests surrounding Bend, or get away from the crowds and head east to the Ochocos, which have rewarding views and great trails ready for a variety of riders. Experience a waterfall or two by hiking at Tumalo Falls just outside Bend or Steelhead Falls near Crooked River Ranch. If you’re more of a city kid, stick around Bend and stroll the
Deschutes River, making sure to stop first at the man-made wave where surfers challenge themselves, and then into Drake Park to admire the iconic Mirror Pond. Swing through the Old Mill District in Bend, which was once several working mills along the river and is now an upscale shopping center. Finally, enjoy the reward that comes at the end of a long day of adventure. Central Oregon is home to a variety of food cart pods that allow everyone to find a favorite dish. Try the original food cart pod, The Lot in Bend, or The Bite in Tumalo, about 10 minutes north of town. Fuel up, because you’ve only scratched the surface of Central Oregon’s wonders.
Stroll past the Deschutes River and public art in the Old Mill District. Tumalo Falls is one of many waterfalls in the region.
2020/2021 GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON
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Outdoors TO GET OUTDOORS is wonderful. To be outdoors in Central Oregon is sublime. Often called an “outdoor mecca,” Central Oregon is a place of mountains and rivers, of lava and lakes. The outdoor recreational opportunities are almost limitless. For any itinerary (including with kids), beautiful hiking destinations such as Lava Lands, Newberry National Volcanic Monument and Smith Rock State Park make for great daily outings. Pack a HydroFlask of water and locally made Picky Bars for trail fare and walk along the stunning features created by Central Oregon’s volcanic heritage. For something with a little more built-in thrill, head up to the year-round adventure scene of Mt. Bachelor for ziplining or its 13-plus miles of downhill biking for all ages and levels. For a laid-back day on bikes, try the Madras Mountain Views Scenic Bikeway near Lake Billy Chinook, where over 29 moderate miles, you can see the majestic peaks of Mount Jefferson, Mount Hood, Broken Top, The Three Sisters and more. For a fun mini-outing, rent bikes in Sunriver and hop on its paved trail network, where you’re never far from coffee, ice cream or craft beer. The Village at Sunriver is a basket of options for dine-in or take-out food, drink and picnic provisions. For those who like to be in the water, know that you are in good
ITINERARIES FOR ANY ITINERARY (INCLUDING WITH KIDS), BEAUTIFUL HIKING DESTINATIONS SUCH AS LAVA LANDS, NEWBERRY NATIONAL VOLCANIC MONUMENT AND SMITH ROCK STATE PARK MAKE FOR GREAT DAILY OUTINGS.
company. The Deschutes, Crooked and Fall rivers are all known for their world-class fly-fishing. Get your fishing license online at www.myodfw.com, and pick up any gear or insight from Fly & Field or The Patient Angler in Bend, or Littleleaf Guide Service in Warm Springs. Take a thermos of coffee from one of Central Oregon’s roasters, a sandwich from Nancy P’s Bakery, a cooler with your favorite local beer or cider and a sense of wonder out into Central Oregon’s pristine waters. Sun’s out? SUPs are out, too. There are few places that feel so good as standup paddling on the Deschutes as it runs past the Old Mill District. You can rent water vessels at Tumalo Creek Kayak & Canoe, which is located at a good put-in along the Deschutes River. Farther up Century Drive and into the Cascade Lakes region, a more stunning and remote SUP experience unfolds at Sparks Lake, Todd Lake and Elk Lake, to name a few. Don’t forget that the Old Mill District is also home to a riverside off-leash dog park, where you can exercise and socialize your pup in a beautiful setting.
TOP Take a hike through what seems like a moonscape in the Newberry National Volcanic Monument. BOTTOM, FROM LEFT SUPs are a great way to see the Cascade Lakes area. Madras Mountain Views Scenic Bikeway is a laid-back 29-mile route full of views. Fly-fishing along the Deschutes, Fall and Crooked rivers is a great social distancing activity. Mt. Bachelor’s summer season includes ziplining and downhill mountain biking (photo: Courtesy of Mt. Bachelor).
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GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 2020/2021
www.visitcentraloregon.com
ITINERARIES
www.visitcentraloregon.com
2020/2021 GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON
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Dining
ITINERARIES
OVER THE PAST DECADE, Central Oregon has grown its culinary desert into a fertile plot of culinary creativity. The first trend that stands out in this environment is the sheer number of breweries. With more than 30 breweries in Central Oregon, there are many opportunities to pair some of the most innovative beer with updated pub grub in a kid-friendly (and, in many cases, dog-friendly) venue.
AT TOP, FROM LEFT Sisters Coffee Company’s pastries and drinks are a great way to start the day. Boss Rambler Beer Club offers a varied taplist. Grab a beer and a table at Wild Ride Brewing in Redmond, then pick an on-site food cart for your favorite flavor.
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Bend was built on the bounty of hops and malt, but mostly hops. With the opening of the grandfather of craft brewing, Deschutes Brewery, in 1988, the floodgates opened. Home brewers listened and learned and then opened their own breweries. Today, you can give blockby-block driving directions with breweries as landmarks. For a walking tour, downtown Bend has Deschutes Brewery, Bend Brewing Company, Silver Moon Brewing and McMenamins Old St. Francis School. Boss Rambler Beer Club is the newest scene for beer lovers on the west side. Its clean, open-air design goes well with its beer selection. Most of these brewpubs have full menus and full bars. Sunriver has the award-winning Sunriver Brewing, which is a welcome
GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 2020/2021
sight after a day of golf or biking the Sunriver trails. Redmond has an emerging brewery scene, too. Wild Ride Brewing in downtown Redmond has food carts on site, and Porter Brewing Co. serves unfiltered, unpasteurized British-style bitter from the manually pumped cask and barrel system that is standard for British ales. Let’s say that you want to take it up a notch in Central Oregon dining—there are many fine-dining options. In Sisters, a good day would start at Sisters Coffee Company with your favorite morning drink, then out to the Peterson Ridge trails for a hearty mountain bike ride, returning in the evening for an upscale meal at The Porch for a Mandarin orange caesar or sweet potato tacos.
In Bend, a wholesome itinerary might begin by hiking the Deschutes River Loop ending at the Old Mill for a bit of shopping and a cocktail at 10 Below at The Oxford Hotel. Then step out to Zydeco Kitchen + Lounge for an upscale Northwest take on Southern cuisine or at Bos Taurus for a chic boutique of a steakhouse’s take on filet mignon, Yukon Gold potato puree and a cherry wood smoked Manhattan. In Redmond, this day may look like a hike at the bucolic Smith Rock State Park, then retreating to the cool new SCP Hotel in Redmond for rooftop small bites and handmade cocktails such as the Ray of Sunshine with Crater Lake vodka, peach puree and sparkling wine. This rooftop view of the snowcapped Cascades is yet more stunning at sunset with a Ray of Sunshine in hand. Restaurants that cater nicely to vegetarians are The Open Door in Sisters, Active Culture in Bend’s historic neighborhood, the fashionable 5 Fusion in downtown Bend, Miyagi Ramen in the Box Factory in the Old Mill District and Kanpai sushi on Newport Avenue on Bend’s west side. As Central Oregon has grown, so too has its range of culinary cultures. Seek the international cuisine that you’re craving: Thai at Wild Rose, Vietnamese at Pho Viet Cafe, Middle Eastern at Kebaba, PanAsian at Spork, Latin-American flavors at Barrio, German sausage at pflücke in Northwest Crossing, or curries at June’s Asian Kitchen in Sisters.
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Golf PERHAPS YOU THINK of year-round summer when you think of golf meccas. Time to re-evaluate. Central Oregon courses have the variety and the beauty to keep you visiting again and again. There are more than thirty courses throughout Central Oregon, and three have been named Golf Digest Top 100 courses—Crosswater in Sunriver, and Tetherow and Pronghorn in Bend. With forecasts filled with sunshine year round, you can hit the links throughout the seasons. You have options when you travel to Central Oregon for a golf weekend, but we recommend choosing a resort and designing your stay around the resort courses. Sunriver, for example, has three courses and a family-friendly nine-hole course. Warm up with a round on Meadows, a John Fought course with seven holes on the water. Then try your drive at Woodlands, which is tucked away among stands of Ponderosa and lodgepole pines. Finish your tour of Sunriver courses on Crosswater, which has won multiple national design awards and once served as the site of the Jeld-Wen Tra-
dition, a PGA Senior Tour event. When you’re golfed out, check to see whether the Sunriver Homeowners Aquatic and Recreation Center (SHARC) is open and, if possible, soak in the lazy river. Tetherow, close to the heart of Bend, has one course but it’s a doozy. Designed by David McLay Kidd, this challenging Scottish links-style course offers incredible views of the Cascades, long fast-rolling fairways and plenty of high desert scrub brush. Rent a GolfBoard for an added challenge for your eighteen holes, then finish up at one of the best pubs in town—The Row, which has Scotch eggs, epic burgers and
a great taplist, plus a stunning view of the course. Just a little northwest of Sisters, Black Butte Ranch is a gorgeous outlier, with two courses that meander through Aspen groves and certainly offer the best up-close views of the Cascades. Big Meadow was renovated in 2012, allowing golfers new challenges. New in 2020, Black Butte has opened the Little Meadow Putting Course that is perfect for families who are introducing kids to the sport. The putting course, near Big Meadow, was designed by John Fought and has twelve holes ranging from 45 to 105 feet.
Pronghorn’s two courses come from big names. The Jack Nicklaus Signature course is a par 72 public course that features lava rock ridges and traditional putting greens, while the Tom Fazio-designed course is a challenging par 72 with a variety of water features and tons of rocks and juniper trees. The course includes the eighth hole, with a 45-foot canyon and exposed lava tube. You won’t forget for one minute that you’re in Central Oregon.
Sunriver Resort has multiple award-winning courses to keep every level of golfer happy.
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2020/2021 GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON
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Kids
ITINERARIES
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Central Oregon is a playground that engages the wonder of all ages. Climbers young and old flock to Smith Rock State Park. The Oregon Observatory at the Sunriver Nature Center has high-powered telescopes and trained astronomers. The otters and birds of prey are always popular at the High Desert Museum.
CENTRAL OREGON KIDS are the first kids in and the last kids out of the woods. Surrounded by national forests, there are a lifetime of new trails to hike, run and mountain bike away from the anxiety of roads. This is no place for kids to be a bump on a log. The Lair in Phil’s Trail network is a hotspot for kids who like to get big air in a natural free ride park. Just up Marvin’s Garden from Phil’s Trailhead, The Lair has small jumps to huge 20-footers. Ride it only when the trails are dry to preserve it. There is an endless supply of climbing routes for every level at Smith Rock State Park. There are also many climbing guides who can outfit and teach all levels of climbers—from beginner to advanced climbers who just want the local take on the more challenging routes. Smith Rock Climbing School and Chockstone Climbing Guides both have experienced and certified climbing
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guides to help you get the most out of your big wall experience. In summer and fall, families can take a lazy float of the Deschutes from a starting place at the Park and Float, near McKay Park in the Old Mill District to downtown’s Mirror Pond. But bring your own canoe, standup paddle board or inflatable. The Park and Float shuttle, however, is not operating through the end of the year. For kids and adults, raft trips from hours-long to days-long are thrilling ways to come together as a family and cool off at the same time. Big Eddy is one nearby rapid on the Deschutes and can be experienced from
GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 2020/2021
start to finish over the course of a few hours. Get a little wilder by doing an all-day raft trip on the Lower Deschutes from Maupin. Sun Country Tours, High Desert River Outfitters, Deschutes River Adventures and more guide services are here to help you make the most of the experience. Mt. Bachelor is, itself, a playground for kids of all ages. In summer months, downhill biking and zip lining are adrenaline rushes. In the winter, it’s all about hucking big air in one of a variety of terrain parks with different-sized features for snowboarders and free skiers. For the younger kids, the tubing park is a blast. The newly renovated lodges of Mt. Bachelor are a great place for hot chocolate and hotty toddies. For down time, hit the Sisters Movie House, a modern theater showing first-run films and housed in a modern red barn. The High Desert Museum on south Highway 97 in Bend is a good way for young kids to learn
about the natural and cultural world of Central Oregon. The otters and birds of prey are always a favorite of the museum’s youngest visitors. Likewise, the Museum at Warm Springs is a regional gem. The history of the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs is the history of our land. Storytelling through art and exhibits are colorful and interactive ways for kids to learn the untold stories of this land. Finally, the Oregon Observatory at the Sunriver Nature Center opens the night skies to eager explorers during two hourlong sessions, which begin at 9 p.m. and 10.30 p.m. Be sure to make a reservation at www.snco. org/experiences. Trained astronomers on staff take kids out of this world and light years aways to fascinating stars, planets and meteor showers. Parents will love the outdoors science lesson and the awe in their kids’ faces when they are able to see Saturn through one of the center’s high-powered telescopes.
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Resorts
Lodging
BLACK BUTTE RANCH
HOUSE ON METOLIUS
13899 Bishops Cap, Sisters 866.901.2961 www.blackbutteranch.com
BRASADA
16986 SW Brasada Ranch Road, Powell Butte 844.234.9112 www.brasada.com
EAGLE CREST RESORT 1522 Cline Falls Road, Redmond 855.682.4786 www.eagle-crest.com
FIVEPINE LODGE
1021 Desperado Trail, Sisters 541.549.5900 www.fivepinelodge.com
MOUNT BACHELOR VILLAGE RESORT
19717 Mt. Bachelor Drive, Bend 888.752.2220 www.mtbachelorvillage.com
NF-980, Camp Sherman 541.595.6620 www.metolius.com
IMPERIAL RIVER COMPANY HOTEL
304 Bakeoven Road, Maupin 541.395.2404 www.deschutesriver.com
LOGE BEND
19221 SW Century Drive, Bend 541.306.3111 www.logecamps.com/bend-or
THE OXFORD HOTEL
10 NW Minnesota Ave., Bend 541.382.8436 www.oxfordhotelbend.com
RIVERHOUSE ON THE DESCHUTES
3075 N Highway 97, Bend 541.639.3481 www.riverhouse.com
RUSTLER’S INN
JINSEI SPA
SCP HOTEL REDMOND
SAGE SPRINGS SPA AT SUNRIVER RESORT
960 NW 3rd Street, Prineville 541.447.4185 www.rustlersinn.com 521 SW 6th Street, Redmond 541.508.7600 www.scphotel.com/redmond
SUTTLE LODGE & BOATHOUSE
13300 U.S. Highway 20, Sisters 541.638.7001 www.thesuttlelodge.com
Spas
118 NW Newport Ave., Bend 541.383.8282 www.jinseispa.com
17600 Center Drive, Sunriver 541.593.7891 www.destinationhotels.com/ sunriver-resort/spa
SHIBUI SPA
720 S Buckaroo Trail, Sisters 541.549.6164 www.shibuispa.com
THE SPA AT EAGLE CREST
ANJOU SPA
1835 NW Pence Lane, Suite 120, Bend 541.241.8454 www.anjouspa.com
FACE TO FACE DAY SPA
809 NW Wall Street, Bend 541.389.2519 www.bendspa.com
8100 Coopers Hawk Drive, Redmond 541.923.9647 www.eagle-crest.com/sparedmond-oregon
SPA AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH 13695 Hawks Beard, Sisters 541.595.5878 www.blackbutteranch.com/ to-do/spa
PRONGHORN RESORT
65600 Pronghorn Club Drive, Bend 866.320.5024 www.pronghornresort.com
SUNRIVER RESORT
17600 Center Drive, Sunriver 855.420.8206 www.destinationhotels.com/ sunriver-resort
TETHEROW
61240 Skyline Ranch Road, Bend 844.431.9701 www.tetherow.com
IMPERIAL RIVER COMPANY HOTEL | MAUPIN
Adventure Guide LODGING, RESORTS & SPAS
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2020/2021 GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 9
Eat & Drink 5 FUSION & SUSHI BAR
821 NW Wall Street, #100, Bend 541.323.2328 www.5fusion.com
BARNEY PRINE’S STEAKHOUSE & SALOON
389 NW 4th Street, Prineville 541.447.3333 www.barneyprines.com
BEND BREWING CO.
1019 NW Brooks Street, Bend 541.383.1599 www.bendbrewingco.com
BENDISTILLERY
CAFE SINTRA SUNRIVER
57031 Ponderosa Road, Sunriver 541.593.1222 www.cafesintrasunriver.com
DESCHUTES BREWERY
1044 NW Bond Street, Bend 541.382.9242 www.deschutesbrewery.com
FAITH, HOPE & CHARITY VINEYARDS
70450 NW Lower Valley Drive, Terrebonne 541.526.5075 www.faithhopeandcharity events.com
HOLA! OLD MILL
19330 Pinehurst Road, Bend 541.318.0200 www.craterlakespirits.com
680 SW Powerhouse Drive, Bend 541.647.2711 www.holabend.com
BONTA NATURAL ARTISAN GELATO
MADALINE’S GRILL & STEAKHOUSE
920 NW Bond Street, #108, Bend 541.306.6606 www.bontagelato.com
2414 S Highway 97, Redmond 541.548.9964 www.madalinesredmond.com
MARAGAS WINERY
15523 Highway 97, Culver 541.546.5464 www.maragaswinery.com
OCHOCO BREWING CO.
380 N Main Street, Prineville 541.233.0883 www.ochocobrewing.com
SUNRIVER BREWING — SUNRIVER PUB
57100 Beaver Drive, Bldg 4, Sunriver 541.593.3007 www.sunriverbrewing company.com
TERREBONNE DEPOT
400 NW Smith Rock Way, Terrebonne 541.527.4339 www.terrebonnedepot restaurant.com
THE BITE TUMALO
19860 7th Street, Tumalo 541.610.6457 www.thebitetumalo.com
THE ROW AT TETHEROW
61240 Skyline Ranch Road, Bend 541.388.2582 www.tetherow.com
THREE CREEKS BREWING
721 S Desperado Court, Sisters 541.549.1963 www.threecreeksbrewing.com
WILD RIDE BREWING
332 SW 5th Street, Redmond 541.516.8544 www.wildridebrew.com
ZYDECO KITCHEN + COCKTAILS
919 NW Bond Street, Bend 541.312.2899 www.zydecokitchen.com
OCHOCO BREWING CO. | PRINEVILLE
Outdoors COVE PALISADES RESORT & MARINA
SW Marina Drive, Culver 541.546.9999 www.covepalisadesresort.com
DEE WRIGHT OBSERVATORY
McKenzie Highway, Blue River 800.832.1355 www.fs.usda.gov/visit/ destination/dee-wrightobservatory
ELK LAKE RESORT & MARINA 60000 SW Century Drive, Bend 541.480.7378 www.elklakeresort.net
HOODOO SKI AREA
27400 Big Lake Road, Sisters 541.822.3799 www.skihoodoo.com
IMPERIAL RIVER COMPANY
304 Bakeoven Road, Maupin 541.395.2404 www.deschutesriver.com
LAVA LANDS VISITOR CENTER 58201 U.S. Highway 97, Bend 541.383.5300 www.fs.usda.gov
MT. BACHELOR
13000 SW Century Drive, Bend 541.382.1709 www.mtbachelor.com
PAULINA PLUNGE
53750 U.S. Highway 97, La Pine 541.389.0562 www.paulinaplunge.com
SMITH ROCK STATE PARK NE Crooked River Drive, Terrebonne 800.551.6949 www.oregonstateparks.org
Adventure Guide EAT & DRINK | OUTDOORS
10 GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 2020/2021
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Shopping
DESCHUTES HISTORICAL MUSEUM
129 NW Idaho Ave., Bend 541.389.1813 www.deschuteshistory.org
BALDWIN’S CUSTOM HAT & BOOT CO.
18430 Fadjur Lane, Sisters 541.610.9978 www.baldwinhats.com
ERICKSON AIRCRAFT COLLECTION
2408 NW Berg Drive, Madras 541.460.5065 www.ericksoncollection.com
BEYOND THE RANCH ANTIQUES
339 SW Evergreen Ave., Redmond 541.279.4867 www.beyond-the-ranch.com
FORT ROCK HOMESTEAD VILLAGE MUSEUM 64696 Fort Rock Road, Fort Rock 541.576.2251 www.fortrockoregon.com
CASCADE COTTONS
909 NW Wall Street, Bend 541.306.6071 www.cascadecottons.com
HIGH DESERT MUSEUM
59800 U.S. Highway 97, Bend 541.382.4754 www.highdesertmuseum.org
COWGIRL CASH
924 NW Brook Street, Bend 541.678.5162 www.cowgirlcashbend.com
TOWER THEATRE | BEND
LES SCHWAB AMPHITHEATER
DESPERADO BOUTIQUE
330 SW Powerhouse Drive, Bend 541.749.9980 www.desperadoboutique.com
THE FLY FISHER’S PLACE 151 W Main Street, Sisters 541.549.3474 www.flyfishersplace.com
GINGER’S KITCHENWARE
375 SW Powerhouse Drive, Suite 120, Bend 541.617.0312 www.gingerskitchenware.com
JOHN PAUL DESIGNS
1006 NW Bond Street, Bend 541.318.5645 www.johnpauldesigns.com
LIVE LAUGH LOVE ART
57100 Beaver Drive, #120, Sunriver 541.797.8410 www.livelaughloveart sunriver.com
NEWPORT AVENUE MARKET
1121 NW Newport Ave., Bend 541.382.3940 www.newportavemarket.com
OLD MILL DISTRICT
450 SW Powerhouse Drive, Bend 541.312.0131 www.oldmilldistrict.com
PRINEVILLE MEN’S WEAR
231 N Main Street, Prineville 541.447.6580 www.prinevillemenswear.com
ROUNDABOUT BOOKS
900 NW Mount Washington Drive, #110, Bend 541.306.6564 www.roundabout bookshop.com
SAXON’S FINE JEWELERS
360 SW Powerhouse Drive, Bend 541.389.6655 www.saxonsfinejewelers.com
STITCHIN’ POST
311 W Cascade Ave., Sisters 541.549.6061 www.stitchinpost.com
Arts & Culture BENDFILM
344 SW Shevlin Hixon Drive, Bend 541.318.8457 www.bendconcerts.com
MUSEUM AT WARM SPRINGS 2189 U.S. Highway 26, Warm Springs 541.553.3331 www.museumat warmsprings.org
SISTERS MOVIE HOUSE
720 S Desperado Court, Sisters 541.549.8800 www.sistersmoviehouse.com
1000 NW Wall Street, Suite 240, Bend 541.388.3378 www.bendfilm.org
TOWER THEATRE
DESCHUTES COUNTY FAIR & EXPO CENTER
VOLCANIC THEATRE PUB
3800 SW, SE Airport Way, Redmond 541.548.2711 www.expo.deschutes.org
835 NW Wall Street, Bend 541.317.0700 www.towertheatre.org 70 SW Century Drive, Bend 541.323.1881 www.volcanictheatre.com
Adventure Guide SHOPPING | ARTS & CULTURE
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2020/2021 GUIDE TO THE BEST OF CENTRAL OREGON 11
DESTINATION
GOLF NORTHWEST
GO REMOTE
DISCOVER COURSES AROUND THE PNW TO STAY SAFE
GOLF
Spa
FAMILY-FUN
Your Basecamp for Adventure & Relaxation Nestled on 1,700 beautiful acres offering panoramic views of the Cascade Mountains and Deschutes River, Eagle Crest Resort is a stunning destination offering guests a true Central Oregon experience. Whether you are looking to relax, practice your golf swing, or enjoy a thrilling outdoor adventure, there’s something for everyone in Oregon’s high desert.
Spacious and well-appointed guestrooms at The Lodge
Equestrian trails, hiking, biking, and seasonal activities
Extended stay vacation rentals
Full-service spa, indoor pool and hot tub
Three onsite dining options
Only 18 miles from downtown Bend
Three golf courses and putting green
1522 Cline Falls Road, Redmond, OR 97756 - 541-923-2453 - Eagle-crest.com
FROM THE GREEN
“AS YOU WALK DOWN THE FAIRWAY OF LIFE, YOU MUST SMELL THE ROSES, FOR YOU ONLY GET TO PLAY ONE ROUND.” —Ben Hogan
C GOLFING
SOLO
THE BEAUTY OF WALKING GOLF COURSES AND PLAYING FOR YOURSELF WRITTEN BY KEVIN GIFFIN
OVID-19 HAS GIVEN us a chance to reflect and reset our lives. We’ve discovered that we have more time to experience things that are solitary and remote—ourselves. This is no consolation prize, of course, for the tragedy unfolding before us. Nonetheless, we’ve come to an inflection point in culture and personal habits. Have I been eating right? Have I been overeating? Drinking too much? Is this a good chance to catch up on the classics of literature? Am I getting enough exercise? Playing a round of eighteen holes stands out as one form of recreation that COVID-19 didn’t completely disrupt. Courses have their own restrictions around the number in the party and have kept most of their communal facilities out of bounds. Some courses even went so far as to install no-touch golf ball retrieval elevators in cups. They are operated by a golfer using his putter to pull up on a hook that is attached to a false floor in the cup.
The Retreat, Links & Spa at Silvies Valley Ranch is about as remote as you can get. (photo: Silvies Valley Ranch)
Cover: Sheep Ranch at Bandon Dunes Golf Resort (photo: Bandon Dunes Golf Resort)
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FROM THE GREEN
AFTER ALL, GOLF BEGAN AS A WALKING SPORT AND PROBABLY SHOULD HAVE STAYED THAT WAY.
Hit the links at one of Oregon’s classic courses—Salishan. (photo: Salishan Coastal Lodge)
Because golf is largely an individual mental pursuit that can be played solo just as easily as part of a foursome, many courses remained open throughout the lockdown, providing some relief and a good walk to those who kept their games sharp over the spring months.
A WALK THROUGH HISTORY After all, golf began as a walking sport and probably should have stayed that way. A game of leisure that may have begun as a startup in Scotland in 1547, it was immediately banned because it distracted from military training and falconry—two pursuits James II found useful in Scotland’s posture against the army of England’s Henry VI. Golf itself remained on lockdown
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for forty-five years until Scotland and England signed the Treaty of Glasgow in 1502. It didn’t take long for the successor, young James IV, then the king of Scotland, to break free of the golf quarantine and resume royal spending with the first recorded purchase of a set of golf clubs, fashioned by a bow maker. Golfing ensued, and did very well for centuries without the need to drive between strokes. By walking courses, golfers’ conversations had a chance to flourish after the requisite spate of cussing that followed a preponderance of shots. A course walked could reasonably fall in the category of recreation. Eventually carts entered the scene and eliminated almost all of the recreational aspect of the game. Driving a golf cart between shots preempted time between cursed shots and foul language, interspersed
by battery-powered road rage. Driving a golf cart for a round of golf became a disruption of civility, a solution without a problem. Now that we’ve all had some time to reflect on our values and laugh at what we’ve let creep into our culture, it’s time to return to the beautiful act of walking a course as a solo pursuit, to remake golf as recreation. The exercise alone is worth noting. Walking an eighteen-hole course is the equivalent of walking 4 miles and burning 800 to 900 calories, according to a study from Harvard Medical School. If you were to ratchet that up to twice per week, you’d hit a minimum standard for weekly adult exercise. There are few forms of recreation and sport that are naturally resistant to COVID-19. Golf is one. It is best when played outside, doesn’t
FROM THE GREEN
Alderbrook Golf Club (photo: Alderbrook Golf Club)
call for hand-to-hand combat as in football and soccer and has no shared objects such as Ultimate Frisbee and tennis and can be played by oneself. Aside from hiking, few forms of recreation offer such beauty in the Pacific Northwest as golf.
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FROM TOP Get outside at Tetherow’s Scottish-style links in Oregon’s high desert. Wine Valley Golf Club in Walla Walla combines beauty with the reward of world-class wines at the nineteenth hole.
A GAME OF BEAUTY Think of the courses whose features are at their best when contemplated on foot and without the constant interruption of others. Imagine walking along the shore of the Oregon Coast, though you’re a hundred feet above the blue-grey churning sea, walking along cliffs lined with neon yellow gorse, acres of rolling shades of green muted and brightened by the passing billows of white clouds. This is walking Bandon Dunes’ Scottish linksstyle course in Bandon, Oregon. Imagine teeing off along the banks of the Puget Sound along a green fairway with a snow-covered Mount Rainier rising head and shoulders directly in front of you. You watch your ball sail off the tee and into a sea of white, losing it in the snowy backdrop only to see it fall seconds later back into the green fairway. This is walking The Home Course in DuPont, Washington. Imagine walking in the shadows of towering pines and into a layered Impressionist painting, with a stand of lower green pines in the foreground then receding to darker, undulating foothills of pines, and a black and white eruption of the snow-capped Olympic Range towering in the distance. This is walking Alderbrook
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(photo: Jonathan Kingston/ Tetherow; Wine Valley Golf Club)
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Golf Club on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. Imagine walking along a rolling links-style course in the high desert of Central Oregon, with the Cascades in the distance and the yellow and green and brown of the Scottish gorse, fairway and sand under foot. Ponderosa pines are sparse throughout the course, but dense on the northern perimeter where the course abuts the Deschutes National Forest. This is walking the course at Tetherow Golf Club in Bend, Oregon. Imagine again a high desert setting, with all of its greens and browns beneath a cobalt blue sky. Now think of it as being set in one of Washington’s greatest wine-growing regions of
Walla Walla and thinking about the gorgeous wines you’ll have as your reward for walking the beautiful course at Wine Valley Golf Club at Walla Walla. Finally, take a solo walk in a green oasis in the middle of the white-topped Cascades and the starkly contrasted and aptly named Black Butte in the foreground. This is the sort of picture you’ll envision for years to come through meditation. This is walking the course at Black Butte Ranch near Sisters, Oregon. Even in times as dark as these, there is beauty and solitude to be found if we just slow down, walk the courses of the Pacific Northwest and smell the roses along life’s only round.
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SILVIES SIMPLY AMAZING SINCE 1883
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Trim: 11" Safety: 0.25"
WHERE TO PLAY
MORE PLACES TO PLAY
OREGON ALPINE MEADOWS www.golfalpinemeadows.com Enterprise, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,072 $20-$47
CHEHALEM GLENN www.chehalemglenn.com Newberg, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,062 $29-$40
GLAZE MEADOW AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH www.blackbutteranch.com/golf Sisters, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,007 $47-$82 8
INDIAN CREEK GOLF COURSE www.indiancreekgolf.com Hood River, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,261 $35-$59
OAK KNOLL GOLF COURSE www.oakknollgolf.org Ashland, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,047 $20-$24
OLD MACDONALD www.bandondunesgolf.com Bandon, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,944 $50-$335
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RUNNING Y RANCH RESORT www.runningy.com Klamath Falls, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,138 $55-$95
SALISHAN GOLF LINKS www.salishan.com Gleneden Beach, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,470 $39-$99
SILVIES VALLEY RANCH www.silvies.us Seneca, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,170 $75-$175
Running Y Ranch Resort (photo: Running Y Ranch Resort)
TETHEROW www.tetherow.com Bend, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,293 $50-$190
*Note: Course lengths are given in yards Safety: 0.25" Trim: 11"
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There is a place
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WHERE TO PLAY
WASHINGTON APPLE TREE RESORT www.appletreeresort.com Yakima, Washington Length from back tees: 6,961 $52-$79 Salish Cliffs Golf Club (photo: Brian Oar/ Salish Cliffs Golf Club)
BEAR MOUNTAIN RANCH www.bearmtgolf.com Chelan, Washington Length from back tees: 7,231 $50-$100
GAMBLE SANDS www.gamblesands.com Brewster, Washington Length from back tees: 7,169 $60-$95 Kalispel Golf and Country Club (photo: Kalispel Golf and Country Club)
THE GOLF CLUB AT NEWCASTLE
PALOUSE RIDGE GOLF CLUB
www.newcastlegolf.com Newcastle, Washington (Bellevue) Length from back tees: 7,024 $80-$165
www.palouseridge.com Pullman, Washington Length from back tees: 7,308 $61-$109
PROSPECTOR GOLF COURSE AT SUNCADIA
THE HOME COURSE
www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort Cle Elum, Washington Length from back tees: 7,100 $64-$139
www.thehomecourse.com DuPont, Washington Length from back tees: 7,424 $24-$49
INDIAN CANYON GOLF COURSE www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/indian-canyon Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,255 $20-$49
WINE VALLEY GOLF CLUB www.winevalleygolfclub.com Walla Walla, Washington Length from back tees: 7,600 $80-$155
STAY & PLAY CASINOS KALISPEL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB NORTHERN QUEST RESORT & CASINO www.kalispelgolf.com Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,663 Packages start at $149 (overnight plus one round of golf for two)
SALISH CLIFFS GOLF CLUB LITTLE CREEK CASINO RESORT www.little-creek.com Shelton, Washington Length from back tees: 7,269 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $63-$109
Apple Tree Resort (photo: Apple Tree Resort)
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SWINOMISH GOLF LINKS SWINOMISH CASINO & LODGE www.swinomishcasinoandlodge.com Anacortes, Washington Length from back tees: 6,177 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $21-$38 10
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COEUR D’ALENE RESORT GOLF COURSE www.cdaresort.com/play/golf Coeur d’Alene, Idaho Length from back tees: 7,189 $79-$99
PRIEST LAKE GOLF COURSE www.plgolfcourse.com Priest Lake, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,200 $22-$56
TRAIL CREEK GOLF COURSE www.sunvalley.com Sun Valley, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,968 $85-$179 *Note: Course lengths are given in yards
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