2020
FASHION’S SECOND CHANCE WITH THE RENEWAL WORKSHOP
LIVE MUSIC
ALONG THE ROUTE
BEST PNW DESTINATIONS BY SEASON + EVENTS
2020
THE T GREA
BEST PLACES
LODGES OF THE PNW
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E US TAK U H YO WIT OF IMENTS COMPLK CASCADES AMTRA
adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades® route
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A skier stands atop the Paradise Inn, buried in snow, circa 1945.
FEATURES
76
GREAT (LODGE) EXPECTATIONS As you travel through the Pacific Northwest, you’re likely to come upon some of the region’s great lodges—many built in the early 1900s and still offering shelter to weary travelers today.
2015.10.44, Washington State Historical Society, Tacoma (Wash.)
ANNUAL 2020
82
PICTURE PERFECT Using a Civil War-era photographic process to make one-of-a-kind portraits of his subjects, Jason Chinchen is hearkening back to olden times with his company, Analogue Tintypes. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOE KLINE
WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER
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/ 2020
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Mike Centioli
Born out of a hope that the experience of peace can contribute to a long lasting peace. Portland Japanese Garden is a place to experience peace through the art of craft, connection to nature, and cultural exchange.
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Travel Portland
ANNUAL 2020
14 36 BUSINESS
ADVENTURES
14. GREEN BIZ: GeoShip seeks to redefine the home construction industry with its zero-waste geodesic domes.
OREGON
16. Q+A: The Oregon Department of Energy’s Janine Benner is leading the state’s climate change fight.
42. EVENTS CALENDAR 46. EXPLORE GUIDE
18. STARTUP: At The Renewal Workshop, outdoor clothing gets a second life in the company’s circular business model.
ON THE COVER Skiers head up to Timberline Lodge in April 1939. (see pg. 76) photo: Courtesy of Oregon Historical Society
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36. Explore the wonders of Oregon along the Amtrak Cascades line, no matter the season.
WASHINGTON
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE 6. A NOTE FROM US 11. DIGITAL EXPERIENCE 90. EXPOSURE: Submit a photo for a chance to win our reader photo contest!
50. From Seattle in summer to Bellingham’s winter wonderland, Washington is packed with great weekend destinations.
92. ROUTE MAPS
CULTURE
56. EVENTS CALENDAR 60. EXPLORE GUIDE
96. PARTING SHOT
22. ART: Artists around the Northwest are shaping the landscape with their public art.
VANCOUVER, BC
26. MUSIC: We’ve highlighted some of our favorite live music spots along the Amtrak Cascades route, from an old Chinatown theater in Vancouver to an underground venue in Portland.
70. EVENTS CALENDAR 72. EXPLORE GUIDE
95. AMTRAK CASCADES NEWS + NOTES
64. There is always something to do in vibrant Vancouver, and we’ve got the best events for all seasons.
30. CHEF SPOTLIGHT: The Pacific Northwest is graced with top chefs who take the region’s bounty and turn it into the stuff of dreams.
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PacSci has new discoveries for all ages: • Tons of interactive experiences • Tropical Butterfly House, Naked Mole Rats and other living exhibits • State-of-the-art IMAX®, planetarium and laser shows • Tinker Tank, our hands-on maker space • Science in the City Speaking Series • Parent’s Night Out • Mercer Slough Nature Park • And so much more!
Visit pacsci.org for hours.
A NOTE FROM US WELCOME ABOARD! WE ARE GLAD you are riding with us and we thank you for choosing Amtrak Cascades! Be sure to check out The Bistro car when you are onboard. We’ve rounded up local, Pacific Northwest deliciousness for you to enjoy and regularly update our menu to feature new items. Coffee, local beers, wines and liquors await your lips, as do tea, hot cocoa, soft drinks, milk and more. In the mornings we serve up Snoqualmie Falls oatmeal and, in the afternoons, the famous Ivar’s clam chowder. All day we offer a variety of entrees, including hot breakfast sandwiches, burgers, mac and cheese, fresh salads and allbeef hot dogs. Want a fresh sandwich? A yogurt parfait? We’ve got those, too. Snacks include nuts, a cheese tray, hummus dip and crisps, chips, pretzels and more. Fresh fruit, candy and Schwartz Brothers baked goods round out your selections. Not sure why we mentioned those last, because that’s usually the first thing we tackle onboard! Whoever said “Life is uncertain, eat dessert first,” was a genius. Want some playing cards? The Bistro has those, too!
The Fresh Sheet menu is always changing, so head to The Bistro to see what’s new and staff will be happy to hook up your taste buds. Pro tip: The Bistro line forms to the right of the counter, which is also where you will find the menu. If there is a line, you’ll find it to be the shortest midway between major cities. Once again, we are thankful you chose to ride Amtrak Cascades. The states of Washington and Oregon contract Amtrak to operate this wonderful train service and we know that Amtrak staff go above and beyond to make sure your ride is as great as possible. We are always interested in improving Amtrak Cascades and appreciate hearing your thoughts and ideas. If you live in Oregon, you can contact ODOT at Passengerrail@odot.state. or.us or 503-986-4321. Washington and British Columbia residents can contact WSDOT at rail@wsdot.wa.gov or 360-705-7900. One more pro tip: In addition to checking train status at www.AmtrakCascades.com, you can also check Amtrak Cascades schedules and buy tickets on the WSDOT app. Happy rails—we hope you have a wonderful trip!
LAURA KINGMAN
MARKETING MANAGER Amtrak Cascades WSDOT Rail, Freight and Ports Division
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/ 2020
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adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades® route
CONTRIBUTORS
JOE KLINE
CATHY CARROLL
BEN SALMON
HENRY ROGERS
PHOTOGRAPHER
WRITER
WRITER
WRITER
While I enjoy the convenience and speed of modern digital photography, I appreciate the history of the medium and the slower, more tactile nature of past photographic processes. Watching Jason Chinchen create one-of-a-kind, tintype portraits with a large-format view camera offered a chance to see a Civil War-era method come to life. The resulting image, fixed on a piece of aluminum, is a tangible keepsake and reminder of how much has changed.
In my daily life and Northwest travels, I try to tune in to public art whenever possible, but in reporting on it, I found I’ve barely skimmed the surface. Oregon and Washington’s online portals with maps, photos and details made me want to see it all. Connecting with some of the states’ trailblazing, caring and insightful artists underscored how much this free, vital resource can enrich us all.
People live in the Pacific Northwest for lots of different reasons—the food and drink scene, the outdoor opportunities, the lifestyle. I live here for the music. This region spills over with interesting artists, and our urban spine—Vancouver, Seattle, Portland—values live music more than most places. Each of these cities has an embarrassment of riches in terms of concert venues of all shapes and sizes, and every night of the year you can catch a killer show. Tracking them all down and writing about them is pretty good work if you can get it!
Stories that chronicle someone’s discovery of inspiration and how it changed their life are common. Rare, though, are the stories that cultivate that inspiration themselves. Morgan Bierschenk’s path to founding GeoShip is not only a sprawl of unconventionality, but a demonstration of our capacity to thrive in pursuit of our passions. It’s stories like his that show us what we’re truly capable of.
PICTURE PERFECT pg. 82
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ART pg. 22
MUSIC pg. 26
GREEN BIZ pg. 14
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adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades® route
EDITOR
Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
Aaron Opsahl
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE
SALES ASSISTANT
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Kennedy Cooper Elijah Aikens Cathy Carroll, Michelle Hopkins, Henry Rogers, Ben Salmon Joe Kline, Mike Wilson Colin Andersen
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Statehood Media, LLC 70 SW Century Drive, Suite 100-218 Bend, Oregon 97702 541.728.2764 Printed in Canada All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. Articles and photographs appearing in OnTrak may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher. OnTrak and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsolicited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these articles are not necessarily those of Statehood Media, OnTrak, or its employees, staff or management.
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Ride like a pro and head to www.amtrakcascades.com/riders-guide to learn everything you need to know before hitting the rails. From baggage information to tips on traveling with bikes or pets, we have you covered. You can also check your train status at www.amtrakcascades.com/check-status.
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BUSINESS
INSIDE: The Renewal Workshop is committed to cutting waste in the fashion industry.
The Renewal Workshop
14. GREEN BIZ / 16. Q+A / 18. STARTUP
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GREEN BIZ
Dome Sweet Home GEOSHIP HOPES INNOVATION WILL DRIVE A NAIL INTO THE COFFIN OF TRADITIONAL CONSTRUCTION WRITTEN BY HENRY ROGERS
GeoShip’s domeshaped homes take energy efficiency and zero waste to the next level.
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Started in 2014, GeoShip is an architecture and construction company specializing in bioceramic homes. These aren’t your typical prefab homes—GeoShip’s dome-shaped buildings are energy-efficient, resilient, non-toxic and generate next to zero waste. The path toward GeoShip’s creation began in 2005, when then-25-year-old Bierschenk left his job at Intel, unsatisfied with the direction of his life and self-described “materialistic successes.” Bierschenk set off for Asia in pursuit of self-discovery. After two years of traveling, Bierschenk experienced a moment of enlightenment—or “satori” as he describes it—on a Portuguese beach and decided to return to the United States. Upon return, he bought a worn wooden sailboat, restored it and took to sea—without any
Renderings: GeoShip
FIRST HE LEFT a well-paying engineering position at Intel to travel the world. Then he bought a sailboat—without knowing how to sail. What for some might have been warning signs of an impending midlife crisis were instead important milestones on Morgan Bierschenk’s journey to creating his company, GeoShip.
experience sailing—backpacking around the world and sailing from Alaska to Mexico. “I started learning about the ways this materialistic and individualistic society imprisons our minds and political systems,” Bierschenk said. “The rabbit hole went deep. I started to fear bringing children into the world. Then I realized it was my responsibility to change that. So I developed a steadfast determination to help build a positive future.” After five years, Bierschenk anchored at Whidbey Island to visit family and found his brother building a timber home by hand. While assisting in the construction, Bierschenk wondered why home construction had seen little innovation beyond wood and nails in the past century, despite the innovation seen across countless industries. www.ontrakmag.com
The domes are made from a bioceramic material called GeoRok.
From there, his curiosity grew—first into a business plan, then into an incorporated company in 2014. “I sold my boat, which was my only home, and went all in,” Bierschenk said. After starting the company, the brothers took three years to develop the distinct elements of the company’s homes: the geodesic dome shape, made of triangular panels that fit together, and the bioceramic material dubbed “GeoRok.” First popularized in the United States by architect R. Buckminster Fuller, the geodesic dome is a design distinct for its structural rigidity and optimized volume using the least amount of surface area. The design, combined with GeoRok—a bioceramic made from magnesium phosphate that works as a water-activated ceramic glue—also mitigates common issues associated with it, such as leaking, deterioration and a high cost. “Imagine a waterproof ceramic glue that molecularly bonds with wood, metal, and itself,” Bierschenk said. “It is a general purpose technology, and enables cascades of innovation, and never-before possible products across diverse markets.” By using the geodesic design and bioceramic material in tandem, the company hopes to save homeowners money, though pricing has not been set. The homes also demonstrate extreme resilience under extreme conditions such as floods, earthquakes, fires, insect infestations and hurricanes, according to GeoShip’s website. GeoShip villages will have options for solar panels, battery www.ontrakmag.com
packs and passive solar heating and cooling in an effort to reduce energy bills. Now, GeoShip continues to build its company and fundraise with investors. After a small product launch in 2018 to inspire potential buyers and collect reservation deposits to fund the company, Bierschenk emailed Tony Hsieh, CEO of Zappos. This led to a meeting and eventually a project to build the United States’ first geodesic village. “Tony lives in an Airstream park with about forty other employees, ten dogs, chickens, and an alpaca,” Bierschenk said. “We’re really values-aligned.” The current timeline for a public product debut is still under wraps, but the company plans to first release three bioceramic dome buildings of different sizes designed to connect. All three sizes will be multifunctional and available in a gamut of colors and textures, allowing for customization. “We won’t just disrupt the current industry,” the company’s website reads. “We’ll stand over its grave until we’re sure that it’s dead.”
“THE RABBIT HOLE WENT DEEP. I STARTED TO FEAR BRINGING CHILDREN INTO THE WORLD. THEN I REALIZED IT WAS MY RESPONSIBILITY TO CHANGE THAT. SO I DEVELOPED A STEADFAST DETERMINATION TO HELP BUILD A POSITIVE FUTURE.” — MORGAN BIERSCHENK, GEOSHIP FOUNDER
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15
Q+A
Confronting Climate OREGON DEPARTMENT OF ENERGY’S JANINE BENNER LEADS THE STATE’S FIGHT AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE INTERVIEW BY HENRY ROGERS
IT IS WITHOUT objection that the world must make drastic change to prevent the far-reaching effects of climate change. Leading the charge for the state of Oregon is Janine Benner, director of Oregon’s Department of Energy and lifelong environmental advocate. From humble beginnings as an adviser to Rep. Earl Blumenauer (D-Portland) on issues like energy efficiency and renewable energy, Benner is now working to transition the state to a brighter—and cleaner—future.
⊲⊲ IS OREGON CURRENTLY ON TRACK TO FULFILL ITS CLIMATE ACTION GOALS FOR 2030? 2050? We’re not. We’re making progress, but we need to increase the pace and scale of our reductions of greenhouse gas emissions. Emissions are expected to drop after 2030, but not by enough— under current policies—to reach the ultimate reduction goal of 14 million [metric tons of CO2] or lower by 2050. ⊲⊲ IS OREGON EXPERIENCING A CARBON REDUCTION? TO WHAT EXTENT? The Oregon Global Warming Commission’s report notes that after a slight drop in greenhouse gas emissions in 2016, the numbers from 2017 increased to about the same level as 2015. According to the commission, this increase is driven in large part to rising emissions from light-duty vehicles. At the same time, emissions from electricity use are decreasing. ⊲⊲ WHAT PERCENTAGE OF OREGON’S ENERGY RELIES ON 16
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RENEWABLES? HOW MUCH DO YOU EXPECT THESE NUMBERS TO CHANGE IN THE NEXT YEAR? We report Oregon’s electricity mix on a three-year average. From 2014 to 2016, about 47 percent of the electricity Oregonians used was from renewable resources— mostly hydropower, followed by wind and solar. As Oregon’s large electric utilities work toward the goal of 50 percent renewables by 2040, and as coal-generated electricity is eliminated from the mix by 2030, we expect it to change quite a bit. It’s important to note that the renewable portfolio standard policy (a regulation requiring an increase in energy output from renewable energy sources) was put into place to spur the development of new renewable resources, so most of the hydropower mentioned above doesn’t count toward the 50 percent goal. Of the electricity that Oregon generates in-state, about 71 percent came from renewable energy resources in 2016. That number is going up, too. For example, we are
starting to see more utility-scale solar facilities being proposed around the state, including in North Central Oregon and Southern Oregon. ⊲⊲ WHAT ISSUES ARISE WITH IMPLEMENTING RENEWABLE ENERGY SOURCES? WHAT ARE THE SOLUTIONS? Some renewable resources, such as wind and solar power, are not always available to match demand, since the wind doesn’t always blow and the sun doesn’t always shine. Energy storage has the potential to capture renewable energy to be used when it’s needed. Storage also has a bonus benefit of improving the resilience of the power grid. Like many emerging technologies, the cost to install an energy storage system can be higher, but we’re already seeing those costs fall. While energy storage-specific facilities are not under state jurisdiction, we do have two solar and two wind facilities currently under state review that include an energy storage component. www.ontrakmag.com
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Photos: The Renewal Workshop
STARTUP
A Second Chance
THE RENEWAL WORKSHOP BREATHES NEW LIFE INTO WORN APPAREL WRITTEN BY HENRY ROGERS
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The Renewal Workshop adds tags to clothing it has fixed up for resale. Employees repair apparel in the workshop. An employee sews in a new label. Co-founders Jeff Denby and Nicole Bassett in the shop.
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AS THE WORLD falls deeper into “climate despair” with predictions growing grim and legislative action remaining stagnant, take solace in companies like The Renewal Workshop that remain unwaveringly committed to a sustainable future. It’s no secret the fashion industry is wasteful— the United States saw more than 13 million tons of clothing thrown into a landfill or combusted in 2015. By partnering with major outdoor clothing brands such as Pearl Izumi, The North Face and Timbuk2, The Renewal Workshop mitigates the
waste by taking discarded clothing and turning it into usable materials that can be reused or sold. “The Renewal Workshop operates a zero-waste, circular system that recovers the full value out of what has already been created as a way of serving customers, partners and the planet,” said Nicole Bassett, co-founder of the company. The company’s defining feature—its circular business model—is a process in which products deemed unsellable or that reach the end of their life are refurbished to be used or resold by The www.ontrakmag.com
Renewal Workshop or the company from which the product originated. With sustainability at the core of its mission, the Cascade Locks, Oregon-based company uses a CO2-based cleaning system to restore items and urges employees to carpool to work as often as they can. The company even goes so far as to compost leftover food, provide reusable food containers to employees and restrict the use of disposable products at the factory. The company’s sustainable practices stem from Bassett and co-founder Jeff Denby’s experience www.ontrakmag.com
in the apparel industry. Prior to The Renewal Workshop, Bassett revamped Patagonia’s renowned social responsibility program and led Fair Trade USA’s pilot project within prAna to produce some of the first Fair Trade Certified apparel. Denby co-founded PACT, an award-winning organic apparel basics brand, launching the largest collection of Fair Trade apparel in the United States in 2014. “THE RENEWAL In 2015, the two came together over a shared interest in the sustain- WORKSHOP ability of circular business models, OPERATES A ZEROwhich extend the life of clothing WASTE, CIRCULAR products instead of letting them end SYSTEM THAT up in the landfill. Together, they creRECOVERS THE ated The Renewal Workshop. The Renewal Workshop now of- FULL VALUE OUT fers services including consulting OF WHAT HAS for brands to transition to a circular ALREADY BEEN business model, renewing goods for resale and consolidating damaged CREATED AS A materials for recycling. WAY OF SERVING “The Renewal Workshop opera- CUSTOMERS, tions team has set up and run facPARTNERS AND tories, literally written the book on quality in the industry and led the THE PLANET.” development of enterprise business — NICOLE BASSETT, CO-FOUNDER systems,” Bassett said. “The Renew- OF THE RENEWAL WORKSHOP al Workshop has led the way in educating individuals and businesses on what is circular and how they can capitalize on this new emerging business model.” With plans to enter the apparel market in Europe next year, the company shows no signs of slowing down. It plans to first offer the renewed products to establish a presence on the continent and eventually work with European-based apparel brands to transition them towards a circular business model. Within the next five years, the company hopes to partner with much more of the apparel industry and transition the companies to the sustainable circular model. The apparel industry’s adoption of the model could see a reduction in carbon output and water and energy consumption by a third, according to Bassett. “In order to have true sustainability, we need to think through the whole lifecycle of a product, from how it was made to where will it go when we are done with it,” Bassett said. 2020 /
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CULTURE
INSIDE: Check out some of our favorite PNW music venues.
Niffer Calderwood
22. ART / 26. MUSIC / 30. CHEF SPOTLIGHT
Meet me in centralia
Explore i n 360 Downtowncentralia.org
RYAN! Feddersen’s art installation “Seeking Visions for a Better World” was a 105-footlong mixed-media piece.
ART
Soothing, Mysterious,
VISIONARY ARTISTS SHAPING THE NORTHWEST EXPERIENCE WRITTEN BY CATHY CARROLL
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heritage, was recently inspired by traditional pictographs as well as contemporary graffiti culture. “Seeking Visions for a Better World” was a 105-foot-long string of visions for imagining better outcomes for humanity. Her mixed-media art installations, such as this one last year for the Alternator Centre for Contemporary Art in Kelowna, BC, are interactive and immersive, inviting engagement—as does her stylized name.
RYAN! Feddersen
WHETHER IT’S THE SOOTHING effects of a towering Douglas fir, a call for visualizing a better world or sparking mystery in a tech-infused one, the creative process of many notable Northwest artists begins with the idea of place. RYAN! Feddersen (she spells her given name in capitals with an exclamation point), born and raised in Wenatchee, Washington, and of Okanogan and Arrow Lakes tribal
www.ontrakmag.com
A Garden for all Seasons
Jaune Quick-to-See Smith, State Names, 2000, oil, collage and mixed media on canvas, Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of Elizabeth Ann Dugan and museum purchase, 2004.28, © 2000, Jaune Quick-to-See Smith.
CONVERSATIONS BETWEEN COLLECTIONS The Smithsonian American Art Museum and the Whatcom Museum
Feb. 1, 2020 - Jan. 3, 2021 | Bellingham, WA
Open every day of the year Victoria British Columbia Canada
butchartgardens.com 866.652.4422 (toll free)
Presenting three masterworks from one of the nation’s most treasured collections of American art, the Smithsonian American Art Museum, in conversation with the Whatcom Museum’s permanent collection.
This is one in a series of American art exhibitions created through a multi-year, multi-institutional partnership formed by the Smithsonian American Art Museum as part of the Art Bridges + Terra Foundation Initiative. Additional support provided in part by Peoples Bank, Heritage Bank, & a Tourism Promotion Grant from the City of Bellingham.
“READY ACCESS TO IDEAS IN THE PALM OF OUR HANDS MAKES US FEEL LIKE THERE ISN’T ANYTHING LEFT TO DISCOVER. I THINK IT’S IMPORTANT TO CREATE MYSTERY IN OUR BUILT WORLD, SO WE CAN WONDER.” — JOHN ROGERS, ARTIST
“Incorporating art into one’s travels will help put people in a mindset conducive to discovery, and foster introspection and critical thinking,” said Feddersen, 36, of Seattle. “It can also be fun and interesting—who you might meet and have conversation with along the way.” She continues to draw on her heritage in creating permanent public art works such as “NEXUS,” in which structural cedar timbers frame a space evoking the trading camps that once connected Pacific Northwest and Plateau tribes. Feddersen is installing it along the Prairie Line Trail in Tacoma, a mile-long park along retired rail tracks filled with art and history, linking the waterfront, downtown, university and brewery districts. Place is also central to Korean-born Annie Han, who met Daniel Mihalyo at the University of Oregon in 1991 while studying architecture. They have since launched the art and
architecture firm Lead Pencil Studio in Seattle and were selected to create an art piece for UO’s renovated Erb Memorial Union lobby. The campus’s giant Douglas firs inspired their video art, “Sunrise Sunset,” a 50-foot-tall LED permanent work installed last year. It simulates and condenses into twenty-four hours the lifecycle of the tree, which can grow to 300 feet and endure more than a millennium. Han, who two decades ago spent long hours studying in the student union, said the piece also represents the growth cycles of students as they progress toward a degree. The artists didn’t want it to flicker or move fast. Instead, they were striving for a meditative, ambient effect. “You could zone out and go into that deep space for a minute and then go back to your studies,” according to Mihalyo. Han explained how the work could offer a brief, therapeutic respite for students immersed in books: “You look up. A chunk of time has passed. I wanted the wall to express that … it would inspire you once in awhile.” To create the piece, they used the 3D-scanning software LiDAR to capture Doug firs at different stages over the course of a few summers throughout the Willamette Valley, the Cascade Range and the Coast Range. They animated the data, inserting Easter eggs along the way—a raven here, a snowfall there.
SET YOUR MIND FREE, FOR FREE Add a fun, inspiring dimension to any trip along the Amtrak Cascades route by checking out public art along the way.
works. The UOregon tour app is available through the Apple App Store and Google Play. Or check out UO’s online campus map:
OREGON ARTS COMMISSION
www.cpfm.uoregon.edu/self-guidedcampus-tours
Tap into the online guide with featured collections of more than 2,400 works of high-quality, accessible art in public buildings throughout Oregon. www.state-of-oregon-art-collection. org/final/Portal.aspx
UNIVERSITY OF OREGON
Take a self-guided tour of outdoor sculptures and indoor art-
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UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON
Explore art throughout the grounds and buildings on campuses in Seattle, Tacoma and Bothell. An online map for the Seattle campus details twenty-nine portraits, busts and statues ranging from a 1907 bronze of George Washington
by Loredo Taft to modern, abstract sculptures. www.facilities.uw.edu/files/media/ campus-art-collection-tour.pdf
WESTERN WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY
Discover a renowned sculpture collection on campus. www.westerngallery.wwu.edu/ sculpture
WASHINGTON’S STATE ART COLLECTION
My Public Art Portal online lets you easily search by category
and location among nearly 5,000 works of art at schools, colleges, universities and state agencies across Washington. www.arts.wa.gov/my-public-artportal
VANCOUVER
Use online maps, brochures and slideshows to do public art walking tours of sculptures, reliefs, fountains and other works downtown throughout the Burrard corridor, waterfront and Yaletown False Creek. www.covapp.vancouver.ca/ PublicArtRegistry
www.ontrakmag.com
AT RIGHT, FROM TOP “Big Eddy” by John Rogers. “Sunrise Sunset” by Annie Han and Daniel Mihalyo, of Lead Pencil Studio. “NEXUS” by RYAN! Feddersen.
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Photos, from top: John Rogers; EJ Oravecz/University of Oregon; RYAN! Feddersen
The project was prompted by the Oregon Arts Commission’s Percent for Art program, which designates 1 percent of construction funds for art acquisition for new or remodeled state buildings. Transforming public and private spaces throughout the Northwest and across the country with colorful, contemporary, elegant, largescale art commissions has been John Rogers’ focus for three decades. An expert in using metals, glass, ceramics, stone, cement, plastics and light, he makes compelling wall reliefs, floors, gates suspended, and freestanding sculptures in diverse places across the U.S. Each work is attuned to the site’s architecture and environment, but one element holds sway over the artist, who lives on a houseboat just north of Portland. “The mercurial surface reflections on water, constantly changing, influence my work the most,” he said. That is apparent in “Big Eddy,” a 30-foot-tall work of lacquered marine plywood, dichroic glass and stone, installed in Portland’s First & Main building in 2010. The piece is an interpretation of a bend in the Willamette River. Another driving force in his work is evoking mystery—a challenge in today’s world. “Ready access to ideas in the palm of our hands makes us feel like there isn’t anything left to discover,” Rogers said. “I think it’s important to create mystery in our built world, so we can wonder.” He responded to that sense with his 2016 work “CommaRaderie,” a cable tension sculpture suspended in the Oregon City Library lobby. “Libraries are a gateway to the answers,” he said. “We have three major societal spaces—home, work and community buildings. Of the three, it’s the community buildings like libraries that are a home away from home, warm and inviting, a communal gathering place.” Last year, Rogers completed a 68-foot suspended cable tension sculpture, “OFFSHOOTS,” at the Northern Kentucky University Health Innovation Center. “It brings the outside into the building, linking the architecture to nature in an uplifting way,” he said. He encourages people to take in public art. “It’s a great way to feel the pulse of the community and what it is they care about,” he said.
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MUSIC
Music to Your Ears
THERE ARE DOZENS OF SPOTS TO SEE LIVE MUSIC ALONG THE AMTRAK CASCADES ROUTE—HERE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVORITES WRITTEN BY BEN SALMON ILLUSTRATED BY COLIN ANDERSEN
FOR LOVERS OF LIVE MUSIC, the Pacific Northwest has no shortage of must-visit destinations. Here are a few of the best spots to catch a concert across the region.
VANCOUVER, BC RICKSHAW THEATRE Centrally located between Chinatown and the Strathcona neighborhood, the Rickshaw Theatre has SO T: AL K OU aret been an institution b C a E CH ore C dore in the city’s cultural m mo t l i » B Com room l » Ball ow k scene since 1971. B r in alk y Pa For more than a de» M tanle in S cade, it was the North American hub of the Hong Kong-based Shaw brothers’ kung-fu movie empire, and after a period of dormancy, it reopened as a music venue in 2009. Since then, the spacious room—known for its good sightlines and vintage character—has hosted hundreds of pop, rock, heavy metal and hiphop acts, from up-and-comers to the hugely popular. www.rickshawtheatre.com
FORTUNE SOUND CLUB Known for its hip art installations, its state-of-the-art sound system and its cozy layout, Fortune Sound Club is definitely one of Vancouver’s top 26
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destinations for those looking to drink and dance the night away. But in between the DJ nights, the club’s calendar of live acts features a number of inspired bookings, too, including white-hot rapper YBN Cordae, Russian punk activists Pussy Riot and avant-electro-classical artist Sudan Archives. There are lots of places in the city to see what’s now. Go to Fortune to see what’s next. www.fortunesoundclub.com
WASHINGTON COLUMBIA CITY THEATER SEATTLE Music courses through the bloodlines of this ex-vaudeville theater, built in 1917 about 5 miles southeast of downtown Seattle. Since then, the stately space has played host to jazz legends Duke Ellington and Ella Fitzgerald and Seattle’s own Jimi Hendrix, among others. These days, contemporary artists of all styles take the stage here, surrounded by red velvet curtains and the venue’s
beautiful exposed-brick walls. The vintage vibes don’t extend to the sound system, however—Columbia City is one of the city’s best-sounding rooms. www.columbiacitytheater.com
TRACTOR TAVERN SEATTLE Ballard used to be a blue-collar village of Scandinavian fishing families. Now, it’s one of the trendiest neighborhoods in one of the country’s trendiest cities. But if you wander down Ballard Avenue and duck into the Tractor Tavern, you’ll instantly feel as if time has stopped and you’ve C AL been transported » B HECKSO ena OU »T to an alternate S roya T: he Sho eattle Hall, »T reality where cow aco wbox ma , Se skulls and leather » V Tacom Dom attle era a e, boots count as Sea Proje ttle ct, décor, and where country music and rock ‘n’ roll not only play well together, but are forever entwined. To fans of rugged American roots music, the Tractor is church. www.tractortavern.com
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www.ontrakmag.com
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Jake Hanson
Fortune Sound Club
Thomas Teal
Jeremy Jeziorski
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall in Portland. METZ at Doug Fir Lounge. Hi Crime at Tractor Tavern. Vancouver’s Fortune Sound Club.
OREGON ARLENE SCHNITZER CONCERT HALL PORTLAND Broadway, which bisects downtown Portland, was home to a number of large theaters in the r SO T: AL K OU umme mid-20th century. d EC sS CH Zoo’ ortlan os, Now, only “The on , P tudi S reg erts Schnitz” re» O Conc sippi nd , ut s issi rtla ideo mains. The grand » M Po g’s H ins la in ornorth P Hall, hall is home H » N OW e » W ugen to the Oregon E Symphony and is easily spotted, thanks to its bright “Portland” sign that towers over the intersection of Broadway and Main Street. Make no mistake: The Schnitz is not some outdated museum piece. It hosts scores of events each year, including films, 28
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dance performances, conferences and concerts of all styles.
SAM BOND’S GARAGE EUGENE
www.portland5.com/arleneschnitzer-concert-hall
Eugene’s a distinctive town, and few places embody it quite like this cozy corner bar in the funky Whiteaker district. For twenty-five years, Sam Bond’s has been an excellent place to get some grub, down a pint or two, and settle in for that evening’s entertainment, whether it’s a touring rock band, a bluegrass pickin’ session or the Sunday afternoon Irish jam. It’s open to anyone, because at Sam Bond’s, everyone’s welcome. That’s why Esquire called this place the “family room of one of the weirdest neighborhoods in America.”
DOUG FIR LOUNGE PORTLAND Nestled in the heart of Portland’s hip East Burnside area, this rustic-chic bar hosts a wide variety of bands in its often chilly basement, where the walls are lined with the massive milled logs that give the place its name. The sound down here is almost excellent, which makes the music particularly enjoyable, whether it’s being made by a popular local band or a fast-rising indie artist. (Bonus tip: Arrive early and eat in the restaurant upstairs. The meatloaf is excellent.)
www.sambonds.com
www.dougfirlounge.com
www.ontrakmag.com
PLUS: CAN’T-MISS MUSIC FESTIVALS BRITISH COLUMBIA BASS COAST AND SHAMBHALA
Rickshaw Theatre
Southwestern Canada is home to not one but two world-class electronic music festivals, but you’ll have to venture out of Vancouver to get to them. It’s worth it. Located along the Coldwater River near Merritt, BC, Bass Coast Music and Art Festival is an independently owned and thoughtfully curated gathering of cutting-edge beatmakers from across the globe. Founded and operated by two women, the event draws a throng of folks looking to dance among trees lit by striking neon art installations. And 280ish miles to the east, on a working ranch near the small town of Salmo, the Shambhala Music Festival has taken place every year since 1998. What started off as a modest party now attracts a slate of wellknown international artists who
come to the festival to rock six unique stages for five days and nights of life-affirming beats, bass and bliss. www.basscoast.ca www.shambhalamusicfestival.com
⊲⊲ Also check out: Vancouver International Jazz Festival, a vibrant event dedicated to celebrating jazz and also stretching the genre’s boundaries. www.coastaljazz.ca
WASHINGTON CAPITOL HILL BLOCK PARTY
Music festivals come in all shapes and sizes, and there are plenty that offer beautiful scenery or a chance to escape the daily grind. But there’s something particularly invigorating about an urban festival, where most of the stages are inside existing nightclubs and all of a city’s wonders and warts are on display. Certainly, a strong lineup full of carefully curated
pop, hip-hop, rock and electronic acts is part of the appeal that has grown this event from an actual block party into a full-fledged music festival over the past twenty years. But just as cool is the opportunity to hang out in one of Seattle’s most vibrant neighborhoods—Capitol Hill—for three steamy summer nights of wall-to-wall fun. www.capitolhillblockparty.com
⊲⊲ Also check out: Summer Meltdown in Darrington, a family-owned fest and jam-band fan’s delight surrounded by forests and mountain views. www.summermeltdownfest.com
OREGON PICKATHON
Far and wide, Pickathon is considered one of the best music festival experiences not just in the Northwest, but in America. There are many reasons for that, includ-
ing the excellent food (provided by some top-notch Portland food carts), the commitment to sustainability (there is no single-use plastic at Pickathon), and the family vibe (kids under 12 get in free, and there is robust programming for them each day). But if you love music, the main reason you must make a pilgrimage to Pendarvis Farm is the chance to see an incredible range of artists in a stunning, wooded setting. From psychedelic jazz in a horse barn to a pasture full of Nigerian pop to Swedish punk-rock spilling off a stage made of branches, Pickathon is an adventurous listener’s dream. www.pickathon.com
⊲⊲ Also check out: Sisters Folk Festival in Sisters, where blues, bluegrass and beyond takes over one of Oregon’s most charming small towns. www.sistersfolkfestival.org
The Rickshaw Theatre in Vancouver has tons of vintage character.
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Tai no narutomaki (sea bream, spot prawn, unagi and nameko mushrooms) from Tojo’s Restaurant in Vancouver, BC.
CHEF SPOTLIGHT
Foodies Only THREE TOP CHEFS AT THREE TOP STOPS WRITTEN BY KEVIN MAX
THE BUSIEST STOPS along the Amtrak Cascades line are Portland, Seattle and Vancouver, BC—all foodie havens in their own right. Here are our three top chefs among an embarrassment of riches and restaurants in the Pacific Northwest culinary scene.
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www.ontrakmag.com
HIDEKAZU TOJO
www.ontrakmag.com
Leila Kwok
TOJO’S RESTAURANT / VANCOUVER, BC Tojo’s Restaurant strikes a handsome, modern balance between glass, steel and concrete in Vancouver’s South Granville neighborhood, surrounded by Asian restaurants and art galleries. Inside, chef Hidekazu Tojo is an artist whose medium is Japanese cuisine and whose palette is every plate he serves. “A great chef is also an artist,” Tojo said. “You first experience your meal through the eyes, so each dish needs to be beautiful and interesting. In my creations, I focus on showcasing the raw beauty of the ingredients, using elements such as garnishes and plating to highlight the season and nature.” Tojo handpicks his fish and produce at nearby markets that grow and fish locally. Sashimi and sushi rolls begin as raw ingredients but find a higher purpose as artful and addictively edible creations. This October marks the thirty-second year of operation and innovation at Tojo’s Restaurant. Celebrities such as Harrison Ford, Steve Martin, Jean Reno and Morgan Freeman appear in photos at Tojo’s, shown with their arms slung around the chef as if they are longtime chums. Perhaps in Tojo they saw a fellow artist, still relatively undiscovered. Born in Japan in 1950, Tojo moved to Vancouver in 1971. The rule follower became BC’s top rule breaker. Here he began to experiment and go beyond the staunchly traditional cuisine he grew up with, literally turning it inside out. The master sushi chef is credited with creating the Inside Out Tojo roll, now known as the California roll and served everywhere. For decades, Tojo has sourced many of the same ingredients. For decades, he has been creating new flavors and excitement with a sushi mat and sharp knife. “I am inspired by nature, the seasons and the beautiful ingredients that my suppliers bring me, and my customers,” Tojo said. “Some of my customers visit me regularly, and I am challenged to create at least one new dish for them at each visit.”
Chef Hidekazu Tojo created the California roll. (photo: Leila Kwok)
ON THE MENU WHERE
TOJO’S RESTAURANT 1133 West Broadway; Vancouver, BC www.tojos.com
WHY
In a city known for world-class Asian cuisine, Tojo’s stands out for the chef’s story, passion for fresh and local fish and produce, and his creativity.
CHEF’S CHOICE
“Tojo’s tuna (Albacore tuna marinated in our secret sauce)—it melts in your mouth and goes so well with white rice. The BC roll and sablefish.”
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Jim Henkens
AT RIGHT Renee Erickson runs multiple acclaimed restaurants around Seattle.
RENEE ERICKSON
THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER (+ OTHERS) / SEATTLE
ON THE MENU WHERE
THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER 4743 Ballard Ave. NW, Seattle www.thewalrus bar.com
WHY
Seafood is best when from the shores of Washington and the PNW. When Renee Erickson and her crew serve food, it will be from local waters and with great flavor, transporting you to the deep blue ocean.
CHEF’S CHOICE
The perfect ¼-pound burger at Bar Melusine; Smoked clam tartine and the salt-roasted chicken at The Whale Wins; Steak Tartare at Bistro Shirlee.
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Renee Erickson is a foodie force in Seattle. The 2016 James Beard Award-winning chef knows how to best represent seafood from local waters. Her restaurant development company, Sea Creatures, has a flair for design and creating hip scenes in the right places. Together, these talents present cuisine from the Pacific Northwest as their best selves. “So many things inspire me—seasonal changes in the Pacific Northwest, our very farmers who dedicate their lives to quality and taste, and my staff pushing themselves and, in turn, teaching and pushing me,” Erickson said. Erickson studied art at the University of Washington, but truly fell in love with food while traveling in Rome. In 2010, she opened her first restaurant—The Walrus and The Carpenter, a fishing pub named for an oyster-laden Lewis Carroll poem—in Ballard, overlooking Ballard Marina on Salmon Bay. Bistro mirrors, small tables, a curved tin-topped bar and a branching metallic chandelier that seems like it could be coral on first glance add to the bright ambience. Come for the local oysters but experience much more of the local bounty—grilled Matiz sardines with walnut, parsley and shallot, the housemade rosemary ham and the scallop crudo with pomegranate vinaigrette. “We have amazing relationships with our shellfish farmers, and we are able to source the freshest oysters,” Erickson said. “We could not be successful without this very close relationship.” Erickson started at the Walrus, but her culinary touch and legacy lives through more venues throughout the city, including The Whale Wins in Fremont, Bateau and Bar Melusine in Capitol Hill, Barnacle in Ballard and Wilmott’s Ghost in Belltown.
A mushroom and egg dish at Bateau, one of Erickson’s restaurants.
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Ox’s smoked beef tongue a la vinagreta with horseradish, ensalada rusa and sweetbread croutons. (photo: John Valls)
John Valls
Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton + Greg Denton focus on hospitality and excellent food at Ox and Bistro Agnes.
OX AND BISTRO AGNES / PORTLAND
www.ontrakmag.com
WHERE
OX 2225 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., Portland
GABRIELLE QUIÑÓNEZ DENTON + GREG DENTON If there were a place where a wood-fired grill could bring out the best in meat and vegetable and bring together carnivores and vegetarians in a savory embrace, it would be Ox. Chefs Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton and Greg Denton showcase the best of Argentinian grilled meats, fish and garden produce in their small and cozy NE Portland restaurant. “I’m deeply inspired by history and culinary tradition,” Quiñónez Denton said. “I love taking a dish that has roots in another place and time and adapting it to showcase an ingredient that’s coming into season here.” Quiñónez Denton came from Los Angeles, but spent summers in Ecuador at her grandmother’s home in the Andes learning about food and flavor. Her husband grew up in Vermont, was interested in cooking from a young age and eventually put that passion to the test at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. Across the country, Quiñónez Denton graduated from California Culinary Academy in San Francisco.
ON THE MENU
In 2012, they found in Portland a culinary scene on the verge of next-level dining and opened Ox in a storefront on developing MLK Boulevard, with dishes such as grilled short ribs with house chorizo and pan-roasted sea scallops with halibut brandade risotto. An open kitchen with beautiful cuts of meat and veggies neatly arranged were visible and engaging to customers. The redolence from the grilled fare was compelling. The meats were to die for, the veggies farm-fresh and the ambience that of a cozy bistro. Word spread and Ox became a destination restaurant for Portland foodies. “I think what sets Ox apart from others is our dedication to hospitality,” Greg Denton said. “It is very important to us that you have a good time while we are taking care of you. I also think that people love looking at and cooking over fire. It calls out to your primal, basic instincts.” In 2017, the husband-wife duo won a James Beard Award for best chefs in the Pacific Northwest.
www.oxpdx.com
WHY
Truly top-notch grilled meats from two James Beard Award-winning chefs. The Dentons’ newest, Bistro Agnes in downtown Portland, is a French coup de grâce.
CHEFS’ CHOICE
GREG: “Our fresh clam chowder, with smoked bone marrow, green onion and jalapeño. It’s a rollercoaster of flavor!” GABI: “I love our skirt steak. The savory marinade really sets it apart from other grilled meat on the menu, and it pairs perfectly with a dab of our zesty chimichurri sauce.”
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ADVENTURES 36. OREGON / 50. WASHINGTON / 64. VANCOUVER, BC
INSIDE: When adventuring through Portland, make a cocktail stop on Distillery row.
Discover the unsearchable Discover the forest
Find a trail near you at DiscoverTheForest.org
OREGON
All Around Oregon
SEE SOME OF THIS STATE’S WONDERS—NO MATTER THE SEASON WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER
SEEING THE BEAUTY of Oregon takes time. This remarkable state has big cities and rural plains, vast forests and cold rivers. If you can bite off a weekend—no matter the season—we have ideas for how you can start exploring this great state.
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www.ontrakmag.com
At Colene Clemens Vineyards, the views are as good as the wine.
SPRING / WINE COUNTRY
www.ontrakmag.com
Andrea Johnson
The busiest time of year in Oregon’s Willamette Valley wine country is summer and fall, so the spring is a perfect time to visit. The Willamette Valley’s wineries stretch from Chehalem in the north nearly to Eugene in the south. You could spend months trying to hit every winery in the region, but we’ve picked out a few of our favorites, plus plenty of other ways to entertain yourself while in the area. If it’s a homebase in the middle of it all that you seek, stay at the Atticus Hotel in downtown McMinnville. The boutique hotel is walking distance from a variety of tasting rooms and has all the amenities you could dream of. If you’d prefer a luxe experience, The Allison Inn & Spa is a must. You won’t find nicer accommodations in the area, and you will have so many options on site you may not want to head into the hills for a tasting or two. When you venture out, try a bubbles tasting at the modern Argyle Winery, or a flight of reds at Dobbes Family Winery, both in downtown Dundee. Or head away from the urban tasting rooms into the hills, where wineries with tiny tasting rooms appear around each corner. The views are tremendous, even if it’s a rainy day— some of our favorites are Colene Clemens Vineyards, Adelsheim and Penner Ash. Or go to Red Ridge Farms, home to both the Oregon Olive Mill and Durant Vineyards, which has a great view of Mount Hood. If beer is more your thing, Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery is the perfect mix of rustic charm and well-made beer. Once you’ve had your fill of tasting, turn your attention to the fine restaurants of the area. Tina’s in Dundee is great for fine dining and an incomparable wine list. Thistle in McMinnville is the kind of place that
THE BUSIEST TIME OF YEAR IN OREGON’S WILLAMETTE VALLEY WINE COUNTRY IS SUMMER AND FALL, SO THE SPRING IS A PERFECT TIME TO VISIT. 2020 /
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www.tualatinvalley.org
www.tualatinvalley.org Sionnie Lafollette
epitomizes the term “farm to table.” Less than a mile away is Mac Market, an old warehouse transformed into a food, drink and community hall with food carts and vendors ready to offer all the bounty of the region.
SUMMER / WASHINGTON COUNTY
LEFT, FROM TOP Washington County’s Tualatin Valley Scenic Bikeway is a charmer. Mac Market is an old warehouse transformed into a community gathering place. CENTER LL Stub Stewart State Park offers solitude. FAR RIGHT Argyle Winery in Dundee is the spot for bubbles.
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Washington County sometimes gets forgotten because of its proximity to nearby cosmopolitan Portland. But the second-most populous county, while serving as a bedroom community to Portland, has a lot to cheer about in its own right. For starters, it’s an international foodie’s paradise. The county’s relative diversity means there are restaurant with cuisine ranging from Korean and Indian to Vietnamese and Salvadoran, with plenty of American tucked in as well. Try Chennai Masala in Hillsboro for an Indian buffet, or Du Kuh Bee and DJK Korean BBQ for noodles and tender meat. Gloria’s Secret Cafe in Beaverton makes legit pupusas and other Salvadoran fare (bring cash), and Best Baguette will surprise you with its banh mi. For the spice averse,
Helvetia Tavern in Hillsboro is an old-school burger joint with a cult following. Man cannot live on bread alone, and Washington County has plenty to keep you active between meals. The benefit of being slightly outside the big city means having plenty of biking and hiking opportunities—try LL Stub Stewart State Park in Buxton, which has 25 miles of trails and an 18-hole disc golf course. The area is known for wonderful road cycling as well, with the Tualatin Valley Scenic Bikeway and other loops. The area also has a variety of wetlands and nature preserves that allow you to get in touch with nature. For those who prefer a chance to enjoy nature while also sipping wine, Washington County has you covered. Oregon’s wine country extends here and you’ll want to learn more about the new viticultural areas in the region. Try Apolloni Vineyards or Elk Cove Vineyards for a leisurely tasting with views. Oregon really comes alive in the summer— Washington County has multiple wine and www.ontrakmag.com
PLAN YOUR TRIP SPRING
Helvetia Tavern www.facebook.com
Atticus Hotel www.atticushotel.com
LL Stub Stewart State Park www.oregon stateparks.org
The Allison Inn & Spa www.theallison.com Argyle Winery www.argyle winery.com Dobbes Family Winery www.dobbesfamily estate.com Colene Clemens Vineyards www.colene clemens.com
Argyle Winery
Adelsheim www.adelsheim.com
beer festivals in the summer months, including Drink Pink Rosé Festival at Patton Valley Vineyard in Gaston.
FALL / EUGENE When the leaves start falling, it can feel like it’s time to go back to school. Take that feeling to heart with a visit to Eugene, home of the University of Oregon. It’s a college town, yes, but it’s a lot more than that. If you find yourself on campus for a Ducks game, make sure to find time for a visit to the Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Art. The museum’s permanent collection includes a variety of Asian art, as well as Russian icons, and will give you an extra dose of culture while back at college. You’ll also want to check out the revamped Hayward Field. This historic stadium was home to Oregon’s track-and-field program for almost a hundred years before a huge construction project that has helped it prepare for bigger international events. It is scheduled to be completed in spring 2020. www.ontrakmag.com
EAT STAY PLAY
Penner Ash www.pennerash.com Red Ridge Farms www.redridge farms.com Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery www.wolvesand people.com Tina’s www.tinas dundee.com Thistle www.thistle restaurant.com
Tualatin Valley Scenic Bikeway www.tualatin valley.org Appoloni Vineyards www.apolloni.com Elk Cove Vineyards www.elkcove.com
FALL Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Art www.jsma. uoregon.edu Hayward Field www.hayward. uoregon.edu Falling Sky Brewing House www.fallingskybrewing.com
Powell’s City of Books www.powells.com Oregon Zoo www.oregonzoo.org Portland Japanese Garden www. japanesegarden.org International Rose Test Garden www.portland oregon.gov/parks Hoyt Arboretum www.hoyt arboretum.org Forest Park www.forestpark conservancy.org Kachka www.kachkapdx.com Lardo www.lardo sandwiches.com
Ninkasi Brewing www.ninkasi brewing.com
Olympia Provisions www.olympia provisions.com
Eugene bike trails www.eugene-or.gov
Ataula www.ataulapdx.com
Akira www.yelp.com
Departure www. departure portland.com
Mac Market www.macmkt.com
Cornbread Cafe www.cornbread cafe.com
SUMMER
Lion and Owl www.lionandowl.com
Chennai Masala www.chennai masala.net
Provisions Market Hall www.provisions markethall.com
Du Kuh Bee www.yelp.com
Pittock Mansion www. pittock mansion.org
DJK Korean BBQ www.yelp.com
Party Downtown www.party eugene.com
Gloria’s Secret Cafe www.facebook.com
WINTER
Best Baguette www.thebest baguette.com
Oregon Museum of Science & Industry www.omsi.edu
Distillery Row www.distilleryrow pdx.com Breakside Brewery www.breakside.com Modern Times www.moderntimes beer.com Ecliptic Brewing www.ecliptic brewing.com Ex Novo Brewing Company www.exnovo brew.com
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ONE OF THE BEST THINGS ABOUT EUGENE IS ITS BIKE-FRIENDLY REPUTATION, FOR GOOD REASON. TRAILS CONNECT A GREAT DEAL OF THE CITY (THERE ARE 46 MILES OF SHARED-USE TRAILS HERE) AND PEOPLE RIDE BIKES YEAR ROUND. Fall in a college town means beer. Falling Sky Brewing House and Ninkasi Brewing both call Eugene home and are great places to stop for a tasting flight. One of the best things about Eugene is its bike-friendly reputation, for good reason. Trails connect a great deal of the city (there are 46 miles of shared-use trails here) and people ride bikes year round. Bring your own on the train, use Eugene’s bikeshare program, called PeaceHealth Rides, or rent from one of a variety of bike shops in town. Use your ride to check out some of the restaurants around town. Akira has tasty and fresh sushi, while Cornbread Cafe asks you to suspend your disbelief that vegan food can also be comfort food (it can!). Lion and Owl serves up a righteous brunch, while Provisions Market Hall has a variety of restaurants housed in one marché, and Party Downtown is the new hotspot on the weekends. Finish your trip with a hike up Mount Pisgah for peace and comely views.
WINTER / PORTLAND
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The International Rose Test Gardan in Portland isn’t in bloom in winter, but still offers beautiful views of the city. The Jordan Schnitzer Museum on UO’s campus is a top destination. Party Downtown in Eugene is a weekend hotspot. The Oregon Zoo is impressive, rain or shine.
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While many think of rain when they think of winter in Portland, it’s actually the perfect time to visit Oregon’s largest city. What it may lack in hospitable weather it makes up for in the many cultural activities and events that are on hand. The bulk of those take place indoors, so you’ll be able to stay warm and dry while enjoying all the city has to offer. The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry, sitting along the Willamette River, has everything from a decommissioned submarine and brain teasers to a children’s water play area and constantly changing exhibits that the entire family will love. For some history, check out Pittock
Mansion, a home hidden up in the West Hills that was the home of Oregonian publisher Henry Pittock in the early 1900s, and which has been lovingly restored to its full glory. Don’t forget a trip to Powell’s City of Books, where you can luxuriate in a city block full of the written word. Powell’s has signings, readings and other events all year round. If you want to brave the possibly inclement weather or you get a mild day, visit Washington Park on the city’s southwest side. The huge park houses the Oregon Zoo, the Portland Japanese Garden and the International Rose Test Garden, www.ontrakmag.com
JORDAN SCHNITZER MUSEUM OF ART
Justin Katigbak/Travel Portland
PARTY DOWNTOWN
as well as Hoyt Arboretum and other outdoor wonders. Solitude can also come in the form of a hike or run in Forest Park, the city’s muddy playground. As you probably know, Portland has quickly become a hip place for fancy food, delicious drinks and swanky stays. There’s no way to visit all the culinary hotspots in one weekend, but it’s worth a shot. Try some of the city’s longtime favorites—Russian stick-to-your-ribs meals at Kachka, giant sandwiches at Lardo, charcuterie to rival them all at Olympia Provisions. Ataula, www.ontrakmag.com
with its creative Spanish dishes, is one of the top reservations in town, and people snap up Departure’s famous Peking duck. Portland’s famous breweries (and increasingly, its distilleries) are another great way to spend a rainy day. Swing over to Distillery Row to try some spirits, or check out some of Portland’s lesser-known breweries—Breakside is a hometown favorite, San Diego’s Modern Times just opened an Oregon outpost, and Ecliptic and Ex Novo are both trying to make new great beer— and succeeding.
OREGON ZOO
photos, at right from top: Colin Morton/ Eugene, Cascades & Coast; Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast; Michael Durham/Oregon Zoo
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OREGON
Event Calendar the Native Plant Society of Oregon come together with the arboretum to host this festival, which features workshops, nature walks, arts and crafts and plant vendors. An outdoor nature exhibit features hundreds of blooming wildflower species on display.
PREFONTAINE CLASSIC
Tim LaBarge
HAYWARD FIELD June 6-7 $: TBD www.preclassic.com
PICKATHON
This grand tradition of Oregon’s storied track-and-field history returns to Hayward Field as the only North American stop on the World Athletics Tour. The event features top athletes at the top of their sport, and is known for the famous Bowerman Mile, a race that has seen more athletes run under 4 minutes than any other in the United States.
2020 USATF OLYMPIC TRIALS HAYWARD FIELD June 9-28 $: $440-$795 www.usatf.org
PENDARVIS FARM
July 30-August 2 / $130+ www.pickathon.com
Now in its twenty-second year, Pickathon is a music lover’s fever dream. Stay for the day or camp all weekend, but don’t miss this down-home music festival, which has featured acts like Tyler Childers, Preservation Hall Jazz Band and Fruit Bats.
The historic Hayward Field underwent an extensive renovation in order to host these track and field trials, and they’re sure to be a hugely celebrated event in Track Town USA. Olympic hopefuls from around the country will compete to seek a spot on the U.S. Olympic team.
OREGON COUNTRY FAIR
EUGENE LANE COUNTY HOME & GARDEN SHOW
LANE EVENTS CENTER March 12-15 $: Free with canned food donation www.eugenehomeshow.com Hundreds of exhibitors will be on hand to help you take your home improvement plans and garden dreams to the next level at this event, which has been taking place for forty-one years. Check out a seminar or workshop to get some hands-on experience, too.
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CHEFS’ NIGHT OUT
THE GRADUATE HOTEL March 30 $: $75 www.foodforlanecounty.org This foodie favorite features bites from many of Lane County’s best restaurants and bars. The event raises money for FOOD for Lane County and is presented by King Estate Winery. Sample all your favorites, then vote on which bite is best.
EUGENE MARATHON & HALF MARATHON DOWNTOWN EUGENE April 24-26 $: $15-150
www.eugenemarathon.com No matter whether you run the 5K, half marathon or full marathon, your race will finish in the University of Oregon’s Autzen Stadium in front of cheering crowds, just like a true Duck. This race has long been a favorite of Oregonians.
MOUNT PISGAH WILDFLOWER & MUSIC FESTIVAL
MOUNT PISGAH ARBORETUM May 17 $: $8 suggested donation www.mountpisgah arboretum.com Lane Community College and
VENETA July 10-12 $: TBD www.oregoncountryfair.com
It’s the fiftieth anniversary of the first Oregon Country Fair, and it’s as wild as it was in 1970. If your image of Oregon is that of granola lovers dancing in a forest, this is your ideal festival. The fair has entertainment, crafts, food and all kinds of magical experiences.
COLONIAL HARVEST DAYS NORTHERN LIGHTS CHRISTMAS TREE FARM October 1-31 $: $7.50-10 www.northernlightschristmas
www.ontrakmag.com
OREGON
treefarm.com This special fall experience celebrates the harvest season with tractor rides and a pumpkin patch. There are animals to visit, pie-eating contests and tons of other activities. Plus, there’s a huge corn maze on site.
FROZEN TRAIL RUNFEST HOWARD BUFORD RECREATION AREA December 5 $: $20-60 www.level32racing.com/ Frozen_Trail_Runfest.html
Just because it’s cold is no excuse to stay indoors. The Frozen Trail Runfest features distances from 50K down to 5K, all on wet, muddy trails. The challenging races will have you moving quickly—if only to finish and get somewhere warm.
ALBANY NORTHWEST HORSE FAIR & EXPO
LINN COUNTY FAIR & EXPO CENTER March 20-22 $: $12-14 www.equinepromotions.net/ northwest-horse-fair This annual event draws horse enthusiasts from all over the Northwest to learn more about every aspect of equine ownership. In addition to educational opportunities and vendors, the event features entertainment such as dressage, vaulting, cowboy shooting and more.
ALBANY TWEED RIDE
THE NATTY DRESSER May 9 $: Free www.thenattydresser.com Dust off those cycling tweeds and head out for a leisurely ride through the Albany Historic Districts. This free event starts at 10 a.m. in front of The Natty Dresser, Albany’s men’s clothing shop—and it ends at the Vintage Bicycle Show at Deluxe Brewery on Water Street.
LINN COUNTY PIONEER PICNIC
PIONEER PARK, BROWNSVILLE
www.ontrakmag.com
June 19-21 $: Free www.historicbrownsville.com/ events
ST. PAUL RODEO GROUNDS June 30-July 4 $: $20-26 www.stpaulrodeo.com
Started in 1887 as a reunion of Oregon Trail pioneers, this event has turned into Oregon’s longest-running celebration. You’ll see a small-town parade, enjoy pies, funnel cakes and curly fries, and be invited to participate in penny scrambles and mechanical bull rides.
This tiny town has been putting on a big rodeo around the Fourth of July for eighty-five years. This is a big one, with a purse traditionally worth nearly $500,000 and almost 1,000 competitors. Find your biggest belt buckle and get in on the action.
THE OREGON JAMBOREE
OREGON STATE FAIRGROUNDS August 28-September 7 $: $1-8 www.oregonstatefair.org
SWEET HOME July 31-August 2 $: $150 for a three-day pass www.oregonjamboree.com
Swing over to Sweet Home for some good-old country music. This festival features two stages and twenty-five acts—this year, Dierks Bentley and Old Dominion have already been announced as headliners. Camp onsite and don’t miss any of the action.
CHRISTMAS PARLOR TOUR DOWNTOWN ALBANY December 13 $: $15 www.albanyvisitors.com
Experience the beauty and history of downtown Albany’s grand homes. Guests can ride in a horse-drawn carriage through downtown Albany and tour eight homes decorated for the holidays, as well as some historic downtown buildings.
SALEM OREGON AG FEST
OREGON STATE FAIRGROUNDS, SALEM April 25-26 $: $9 www.oragfest.com More than 20,000 people attended Ag Fest in 2019 to learn more about Oregon’s agriculture. The event seeks to teach people where their food comes from, with hands-on exhibits and lots of learning opportunities about Oregon’s ag industry. Kids 12 and under get in free, and there are pony rides and other activities such as sheep shearing to enjoy.
ST. PAUL RODEO
March 20-May 3 $: $5-20 www.woodenshoe.com Swing by the Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm to peep 40 acres of blooming tulips, drink some wine and get all those Instagram-ready selfies taken care of. You can bring your dog and enjoy family-friendly activities.
OREGON STATE FAIR
It’s the granddaddy of them all. The Oregon State Fair is a smorgasbord of carnival rides, fun food, agricultural displays, animals and tons more entertainment. Each year, big-name acts show up for concerts and thousands of people visit the state capital to get in on the fun.
MOUNT ANGEL OKTOBERFEST
MOUNT ANGEL September 17-20 $: Free www.oktoberfest.org Now celebrating its fifty-fifth year, Mount Angel’s Oktoberfest is a true community event. This small Bavarian-themed town comes alive in September with events ranging from a pedal tractor race and golf tournament to plenty of toasting in the biergarten. You’ll get caught up in the fun.
HOLIDAYS AT THE CAPITOL THE STATE CAPITOL December 2-23 $: Free www.oregoncapitol.com
Each year, the Oregon Capitol opens its doors to allow us all to view its holiday train, decorations and lights. Special performances take place throughout the month, and all events run Monday through Saturday.
OREGON CITY WOODEN SHOE TULIP FESTIVAL
WOODEN SHOE TULIP FARM
OREGON RENAISSANCE FAIRE CLACKAMAS COUNTY FAIRGROUNDS June 6-7, June 13-14 $: $18-72 www.oregonfaire.com
The Oregon Renaissance Faire transforms the Clackamas County Fairgrounds into the “Vale of Dunrose,” a Scottish community from the Renaissance era. You’ll be entertained by period-appropriate activities, demonstrations, music and food.
FIRST CITY CELEBRATION
DOWNTOWN OREGON CITY July 11 $: Free www.downtownoregoncity.org Celebrate the Oregon Territory’s first city, Oregon City, at the end of the Oregon Trail. This event features vendors, live music and plenty of activities for the kids.
OREGON BIGFOOT FESTIVAL AND BEYOND
CLACKAMAS COUNTY FAIRGROUNDS July 25 $: $5 www.oregonbigfootfestival.com Do you believe? Learn from experts about the paranormal—from Bigfoot to UFOs and everything in between. Meet like-minded people
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OREGON
PORTLAND PRIDE
TOM MCCALL WATERFRONT PARK June 13-14 $: Free www.pridenw.org Celebrate inclusion and diversity at the Portland Pride Waterfront Festival and Parade. The event has been around since the 1970s, and today it’s a two-day festival with more than 150 organizations pitching in.
WATERFRONT BLUES FESTIVAL
Eric Hermann
TOM MCCALL WATERFRONT PARK July 2-5 $: $50-1,250 for passes www.waterfrontbluesfest.com
WEST COAST GIANT PUMPKIN REGATTA TUALATIN LAKE OF THE COMMONS
October 17 / Free www.tualatinoregon.gov/pumpkinregatta
Every year, costumed rowers climb into giant, hollowedout pumpkins and paddle them across the lake. Join in the fun, and check out other fall activities such as pumpkin bowling and pumpkin golf.
and expand your understanding of the world around you.
PORTLAND PORTLAND INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
MULTIPLE LOCATIONS March 6-15 $: Prices vary www.nwfilm.org With more than a hundred short films and features to discover, the Portland International Film Festival draws nearly 35,000
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people each year. If you’re a film buff, this is a must-see event. Grab a pass, or buy tickets to individual films.
OREGON ZOO SUMMER CONCERTS
OREGON ZOO Dates throughout summer www.zooconcerts.com Big-name acts play the Oregon Zoo’s amphitheater each year, and fans love the outdoor setting, animal spotting and great music. Food carts along the edge of the lawn make this a great spot to settle in for an evening of music.
This longstanding festival held each year in Tom McCall Waterfront Park is the biggest blues festival west of the Mississippi. There are four stages featuring well-known artists performing blues, soul, funk and more.
OREGON BREWERS FESTIVAL
TOM MCCALL WATERFRONT PARK July 22-25 $: Free to enter, $20 for tasting package www.oregonbrewfest.com This brew fest has been a staple for Oregon beer lovers since 1988, when six breweries participated. Since then, it’s grown into one of the biggest and most beloved festivals in the Pacific Northwest. Grab snacks from one of the food trucks on site and get to tasting beers from new and lesser-known breweries, as well as your old standbys.
CHAPMAN ELEMENTARY SCHOOL September 1-30 $: Free www.audubonportland.org This is an ultimate Portland locals’ event. Each September, thousands of Vaux’s swifts gather above the Chapman Elementary chimney an hour before the sun sets, circling before entering the chimney to roost. It’s a spellbinding event—bring a folding chair and settle in on the lawn for the spectacle. The Audubon Society and food vendors are typically on site.
OREGON INTERNATIONAL AIR SHOW MCMINNVILLE MUNICIPAL AIRPORT September 25-27 $: TBD www.oregonairshow.com
Airplanes old and new are on hand at this annual event to show off their skills. The Blue Angels always make an appearance, and planes, helicopters and other vehicles are available for walk-throughs.
CHRISTMAS FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS THE GROTTO December $: TBD www.thegrotto.org
Each year, The Grotto in Portland comes alive during the holiday season. Walk through the gardens, lit up with thousands of Christmas lights, and listen to the many visiting choirs who grace The Grotto each evening for concerts.
ROSE CITY COMIC CON
CHRISTMAS SHIP PARADES
Get your pop culture fix at Rose City Comic Con, which celebrates all things comics and creativity. The event also focuses on anime, fantasy, gaming, sci-fi and cosplay, with interactive events for the whole family.
Yacht clubs and Portland locals participate in this fun holiday tradition, decorating their boats and parading them down the Columbia and Willamette rivers. The parade doesn’t run every day, so check the schedule to make sure you catch the ships in action.
OREGON CONVENTION CENTER Sept 11-13 $: TBD www.rosecitycomiccon.com
CHAPMAN SWIFT WATCH
WILLAMETTE/COLUMBIA RIVERS December 4-22 $: Free www.christmasships.org
www.ontrakmag.com
S AY H E L L O T O T H E
HARLOW HOTEL G E M
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T H E
P E A R L
D I S T R I C T
Springhill Albany Historic Cellars Carousel Winery (WVVA/AO (Cathy Webb) Films)
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From Pinot Noir to Malbec, experience an outstanding collection of Oregon wines at Eugene’s original winery open daily 12-5 pm | SilvanRidge.com | 541-345-194545
OREGON
Where to Eat, Stay + Play Carly Diaz
EAT EUGENE $$, American, Pub 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 541.485.2437 www.thebierstein.com
ACME CAFE
$$, American 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.798.4736 www.acmecafe.net
BLACK WOLF SUPPER CLUB $$, Cajun/Creole, Southern 95 FEET FROM STATION 541.687.8226 www.facebook.com/ blackwolfsupperclub
BONJAPAN 86 YAROKU
$$, Japanese 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.362.3963 www.facebook.com
JACKALOPE LOUNGE
CHRISTOS PIZZERIA & LOUNGE
$, American 92 FEET FROM STATION 541.485.1519 www.jackalopelounge.com
$$, Pizza 1.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.371.2892 www.christospizzasalem.com
MARCHÉ
GAMBERETTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT
$$, French 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.3612 www.marcherestaurant.com
$$, Italian 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.339.7446 www.gamberettis.com
MCMENAMINS HIGH STREET BREWERY & CAFÉ
MORNING GLORY CAFÉ
$$, Vegetarian 59 FEET FROM STATION 541.687.0709 www.morninggloryeugene. squarespace.com
OREGON ELECTRIC STATION $$$, Steakhouse, Italian, Seafood 374 FEET FROM STATION 541.485.4444 www.oesrestaurant.com
PLACIDO’S PASTA SHOP
$$, Italian 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 458.205.8092 www.placidos.com
SUSHI PURE
$$, Sushi 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.654.0608 www.sushipureeugene.com
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$$$, New American 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.8157 www.sybarisbistro.com
SALEM
THE BIER STEIN
$$, Brewpub 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 541.345.4905 www.mcmenamins.com/ high-street-brewery-cafe
SYBARIS BISTRO
RUDY’S STEAKHOUSE
$$, Steakhouse, Wine Bar 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.399.0449 www.rudyssteakhouse.com
Gloria’s Secret Cafe / Beaverton
TACOVORE
OREGON BARBECUE
WILD PEAR
WILDCRAFT CIDER WORKS
SAM CITY
WILLAMETTE VALLEY VINEYARDS
$$, Mexican 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 541.735.3518 www.tacovorepnw.com $$, New American 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.735.3506 www.wildcraftciderworks.com
ALBANY CALAPOOIA BREWING
$$, Brewpub 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.1931 www.calapooiabrewing.com
FRANKIE’S RESTAURANT
$$, American, Steakhouse 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.248.3671 www.frankies-oregon.com
$$, Barbecue, Sandwiches 2.6 MILES FROM STATION 541.704.7333 www.bbqoregon.com $$, Asian Fusion, Vietnamese 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.6180 www.samcityfusion.4-food.com
SIDEKICKS BY PASTEGA
$, Breakfast & Brunch, Wraps 0.1 MILES FROM STATION 541.967.7558 www.facebook.com/ sidekicksbypastega
SWEET RED BISTRO
$$, Modern European, Cocktails 0.6 MILES FROM STATION 541.704.0510 www.facebook.com/ sweetredbistro
$$, Cafe 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.378.7515 www.wildpearcatering.com
Turner $$, Winery 9.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.588.9463 www.wvv.com
WORD OF MOUTH NEIGHBORHOOD BISTRO
$$, American, Breakfast & Brunch 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.930.4285 www.wordofsalem.com
XICHA BREWING COMPANY $$, Latin America, Brewpub 2.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.990.8292 www.xichabrewing.com
www.ontrakmag.com
OREGON
OREGON CITY THE HIGHLAND STILLHOUSE $$, Pubs, Scottish 1.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.723.6789 www.highlandstillhouse.com
MASALA BOX
$, Indian 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.305.5447 www.masalaboxinc.com
OREGON CITY BREWING CO. $$, Brewpub 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.908.1948 www.ocbeerco.com
YVONNE’S
$$, Breakfast & Brunch 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 971.322.6613 www.yvonnes-restaurant.com
PORTLAND ANDINA RESTAURANT
$$$, Peruvian, Tapas Bar 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.9535 www.andinarestaurant.com
GLORIA’S SECRET CAFÉ
Beaverton $$, Latin American 8.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.268.2124 www.gloriassecretcafe.com
GRASSA
$$, Italian 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.241.1133 www.grassapdx.com
IMPERIAL RESTAURANT
$$, American 0.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.7221 www.imperialpdx.com
LAURELHURST MARKET
$$$, Steakhouse 2.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.206.3099 www.laurelhurstmarket.com
LECHON
$$, Argentine, Tapas Bar 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.219.9000 www.lechonpdx.com
OVEN AND SHAKER
$$, Pizza, Italian 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.241.1600 www.ovenandshaker.com
THE PALM COURT
$$$, American 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.2000 www.bensonhotel.com
RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE $$$, Steakhouse 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.221.4518 www.ruthschris.com
TASTY N ALDER
$$, American, Breakfast & Brunch 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.621.9251 www.tastynalder.com
VOODOO DOUGHNUT
$, Donuts, Bakery 0.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.241.4704 www.voodoodoughnut.com
YAMA SUSHI & SAKE BAR
SALT & STRAW
$$, Sushi Bar, Japanese 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.841.5463 www.yamasushiandsake bar.com
SERRATTO RESTAURANT & BAR
STAY
$$, Ice Cream & Frozen Yogurt 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 971.271.8168 www.saltandstraw.com $$, Italian, Mediterranean, Modern European 1 MILE FROM STATION 503.221.1195 www.serratto.com
EUGENE BEST WESTERN NEW OREGON MOTEL
2 MILES FROM STATION 541.683.3669 www.book.bestwestern.com
CAFFE MINGO
$$, Italian 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.226.4646 www.caffemingonw.com
DECARLI
$$, Italian 8.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.641.3223 www.decarlirestaurant.com
DIN TAI FUNG
$$, Noodles, Taiwanese 9.0 MILES FROM STATION 503.768.9888 www.dintaifungusa.com
ELEPHANT’S DELICATESSEN $$, Deli MULTIPLE LOCATIONS www.elephantsdeli.com
GARDEN BAR
$$, Vegetarian MULTIPLE LOCATIONS www.gardenbarpdx.com
Caravan: The Tiny House Hotel / Portland
www.ontrakmag.com
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Jon Christopher Meyers
OREGON
C’EST LA VIE INN
1.5 MILES FROM STATION 541.302.3014 www.cestlavieinn.com
COURTYARD EUGENE SPRINGFIELD
4.6 MILES FROM STATION 541.726.2121 www.marriott.com
EXCELSIOR INN
1.2 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.6963 www.excelsiorinn.com
EVEN HOTEL
1.1 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.3836 www.ihg.com
GRADUATE EUGENE
0.2 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.2000 www.graduatehotels.com/ eugene
HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS & SUITES EUGENE DOWNTOWN 3 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.1243 www.ihg.com
INN AT THE 5TH
0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.743.4099 www.innat5th.com
PHOENIX INN SUITES
1 MILE FROM STATION 541.344.0001 www.phoenixinn.com
THE TIMBERS MOTEL
0.6 MILES FROM STATION 1.800.643.4167 www.timbersinneugene.com
VALLEY RIVER INN
3 MILES FROM STATION 541.743.1000 www.valleyriverinn.com
ALBANY BEST WESTERN PLUS PRAIRIE INN
2.5 miles from station 541.928.4665 www.albanybestwestern.com
COMFORT SUITES
2.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.497.7782 www.choicehotels.com
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Cascades Raptor Center / Eugene
HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS
2.9 MILES FROM STATION 877.859.5095 www.ihg.com
PHOENIX INN SUITES
2.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.926.5696 www.phoenixinn.com
QUALITY INN & SUITES
2.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.0921 www.choicehotels.com
SALEM BEST WESTERN PLUS MILL CREEK INN
2.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.585.3332 www.bestwestern.com
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOTEL
2.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.581.7004 www.doubletree3.hilton.com
THE GRAND HOTEL
0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.540.7800 www.grandhotelsalem.com
HAMPTON INN & SUITES
2.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.362.1300 www.hamptoninn3.hilton.com
PHOENIX INN SUITES
3.0 MILES FROM STATION 503.588.9220 www.phoenixinn.com/salem
OREGON CITY BEST WESTERN PLUS RIVERSHORE HOTEL
0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.655.7141 www.book.bestwestern.com
CLACKAMAS RIVER HOUSE
6.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.502.8478 www.clackamasriverhouse.com
LAKESHORE INN
Lake Oswego 6.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.636.9679 www.thelakeshoreinn.com
PORTLAND ACE HOTEL
0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.2277 www.acehotel.com
THE BENSON, A COAST HOTEL 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.2000 www.coasthotels.com
CANOPY BY HILTON
0.3 MILES FROM STATION 971.351.0230 www.canopy3.hilton.com
CARAVAN: THE TINY HOUSE HOTEL
2.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.288.5225 www.tinyhousehotel.com
DOSSIER HOTEL
0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.294.9000 www.dossierhotel.com
THE DUNIWAY PORTLAND
0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.553.7000 www3.hilton.com
FRIENDLY BIKE GUEST HOUSE 2.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.459.3403 www.friendlybikeguest house.com
HEATHMAN HOTEL
0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.241.4100 www.heathmanhotel.com
HOTEL EASTLUND
1.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.235.2100 www.hoteleastlund.com
THE HOTEL ZAGS PORTLAND 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.484.1084 www.thehotelzags.com
INN @ NORTHRUP STATION 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.224.0543 www.northrupstation.com
JUPITER HOTEL
1.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.230.9200 www.jupiterhotel.com
www.ontrakmag.com
OREGON
THE NINES
GALLERY CALAPOOIA
WILLAMETTE FALLS
PORTLAND ART MUSEUM
PARAMOUNT HOTEL
SALEM
PORTLAND
POWELL’S BOOKS
ENCHANTED FOREST
ARLENE SCHNITZER CONCERT HALL
0.7 MILES FROM STATION 877.229.9995 www.thenines.com 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.223.9900 www.portlandparamount.com
RIVER’S EDGE HOTEL & SPA 4.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.802.5800 www.riversedgehotel.com
SHIFT VACATION RENTALS
3.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.208.2581 www.shiftvacationrentals.com
PLAY EUGENE BIJOU METRO
0.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.357.0375 www.bijou-cinemas.com
CASCADES RAPTOR CENTER
0.6 MILES FROM STATION 541.971.5701 www.gallerycalapooia.com
Turner 7.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.371.4242 www.enchantedforest.com
EVERGREEN AVIATION & SPACE MUSEUM
McMinnville 24.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.434.4185 www.evergreenmuseum.org
GILBERT HOUSE CHILDREN’S MUSEUM
1.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.371.3631 www.acgilbert.org
HISTORIC ELSINORE THEATRE 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.375.3574 www.elsinoretheatre.com
OREGON STATE HOSPITAL MUSEUM OF MENTAL HEALTH
5.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.485.1320 www.cascadesraptorcenter.org
1.6 MILES FROM STATION 971.599.1674 www.oshmuseum.org
HERITAGE DRY GOODS
SALEM CENTER
0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.393.6710 www.northpluswest.com
1.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.399.9676 www.salemcenter.com
HULT CENTER FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS
OREGON CITY
0.2 MILES FROM STATION 541.682.5000 www.hultcenter.org
MUSEUM OF NATURAL & CULTURAL HISTORY
1.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.346.3024 mnch.uoregon.edu
OAKWAY CENTER
1.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.485.4711 www.oakwaycenter.com
ALBANY ALBANY ANTIQUE MALL
0.5 MILES FROM STATION 541.704.0109 www.albanyantiquemall.com
www.ontrakmag.com
BRIDGEPORT VILLAGE
Tigard 11.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.968.1704 www.bridgeport-village.com
CLACKAMAS REPERTORY THEATER
3.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.594.6047 www.clackamasrep.org
END OF THE OREGON TRAIL 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.657.9336 www.historicoregoncity.org
THE TREE CLIMBING PLANET 4.7 MILES FROM STATION 404.313.0562 www.treeclimbingplanet.com
1.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.650.9570 www.oregon.com
0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.248.4335 www.portland5.com
BOYS FORT
0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.241.2855 www.boysfort.com
1.0 MILE FROM STATION 503.226.2811 www.portlandartmuseum.org 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 800.878.7323 www.powells.com
RACHELLE M. RUSTIC HOUSE OF FASHION
0.7 MILES FROM STATION 971.319.6934 www.rachellem.com
RICE NORTHWEST MUSEUM OF ROCKS & MINERALS
GARNISH APPAREL
Hillsboro 17.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.647.2418 www.ricenorthwestmuseum.org
INTERNATIONAL ROSE TEST GARDEN
ROSE CITY ROLLERS
0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.954.2292 www.garnishapparel.com
2.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.823.3636 www.travelportland.com
LAN SU CHINESE GARDEN
6.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.233.5777 www.rosecityrollers.com
SHANGHAI TUNNEL WALKING TOUR
0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.8131 www.lansugarden.org
0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.774.4522 www.portlandwalkingtours.com
MCMENAMINS CRYSTAL BALLROOM
TWIST
0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.225.0047 www.crystalballroompdx.com
MT. HOOD MEADOWS SKI RESORT
Mt. Hood 75 MILES FROM STATION 503.337.2222 www.skihood.com
THE NATIONAL HAT MUSEUM 2.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.319.0799 www.thehatmuseum.com
OREGON MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND INDUSTRY 1.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.797.4000 www.omsi.edu
OREGON ZOO
3.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.226.1561 www.oregonzoo.org
1.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.224.0334 www.twistonline.com
US OUTDOOR STORE
0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.223.5937 www.usoutdoor.com
WORLD FORESTRY CENTER 3.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.1367 www.worldforestry.org
THE ZYMOGLYPHIC MUSEUM 5.2 MILES FROM STATION zymoglyphic@gmail.com www.zymoglyphic.org
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PITTOCK MANSION
2.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.823.3623 www.pittockmansion.org
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Wandering Through Washington
Chuck Lysen
A SEASON-BY-SEASON GUIDE TO THE STATE’S BEST SPOTS WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER
SPRING / TACOMA
The Museum of Glass has Chihuly exhibits, as well as work by other glass artists.
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OFTEN OVERLOOKED BECAUSE of Seattle, its sophisticated neighbor to the north, Tacoma has plenty of cool to offer all its own. For starters, it’s basically culture central—when you arrive you’ll want to beeline to the various museums that dot this city. There’s truly something to appease all curious states—the LeMay: America’s Car Museum is an incredible collection of vehicles, organized into a spiral you can walk through for hours. The Museum of Glass down the street has a number of works by Dale Chihuly and others, as well as a hot shop where glass artists work throughout the day. Or swing by the Washington State History Museum, which delves the compelling stories of Washington’s early years. If you have kids
in tow, The Children’s Museum of Tacoma will keep them occupied for hours with learning and play. And the Foss Waterway Seaport provides a deep dive on the maritime history of the region. When you get hungry, head to The Table, a fine-dining restaurant focused on local ingredients with duck, scallops and elk on the menu. Another upscale option, Pacific Grill in downtown Tacoma, has plenty of oysters and other seafood to satisfy a craving. And The Lobster Shop will do you one better with all things lobster (and prawns, and scallops, and on and on). If you’re seeking something a little more lively, try Dirty Oscar’s Annex, where you can get a Dead Elvis Burger—candied bacon, peanut butter—and all manner of cocktails. www.ontrakmag.com
UNPLUG. BREATHE. STROLL. REPEAT.
ENJOY MORE. SPEND LESS. » Free Wi-Fi » Free hot breakfast buffet » Free Showtime & HBO & over 30 HD channels » Microwaves & mini fridges in every room » Complementary access to City Gym next-door » Great nearby shopping & dining
Deadlines, to-do lists, carpools, meetings. Every day stress and more stress. Where do you let it all go? When you’re ready to unwind, there’s a place just a short ferry ride from Seattle where you can reconnect with nature and with yourself. Bloedel Reserve—150 acres of gardens, meadows, forests, water, wildlife, and comfortable walking trails designed especially for slowing down and breathing deep. Come discover what a walk in the woods can do.
Plan your visit online at: bloedelreserve.org
Holiday Inn Express® Bellingham 4160 Meridian Street Bellingham, WA 98226 BOOK YOUR STAY WITH US TODAY! 360.671.4800 www.hiexpress.com/bellinghamwa
OPEN TUES–SUN, 10 AM–4 PM, RAIN OR SHINE | 206-842-7631 BAINBRIDGE ISLAND, WA
PACIFIC GRILL
MATT’S IN THE MARKET
Visit Seattle/Alabastro Photography
LEMAY: AMERICA’S CAR MUSEUM
When you’ve reached the end of your day, head to Hotel Murano, an artsy boutique hotel in downtown Tacoma with comfortable rooms. The Silver Cloud Inn on the waterfront is about as scenic as it gets—2 miles north of the downtown, every room has a waterfront view.
SUMMER / SEATTLE
photos, at left from top: Pacific Grill; LeMay: America’s Car Museum; Nick Jurich
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You know Seattle, but you may not know it in the summer. Seattle comes alive in this season. There are constant outdoor events such as Bumbershoot, an enormous music and art festival, as well as the Seattle International Beerfest and the Bite of Seattle. These events alone are reasons to visit. Incidentally, they all take place in Seattle Center, a huge area originally used for the World’s
Fair that has been repurposed into the cultural center of the city. Here you’ll find museums and the Space Needle, which underwent a massive renovation that improved the views and must be seen to be believed. While here, check out Chihuly Garden & Glass, a love song to Dale Chihuly’s genius, and the Museum of Pop Culture, which has a massive permanent collection of music and other paraphernalia as well as rotating exhibits that appeal to all generations. Seattle Great Wheel is an enormous Ferris wheel on Pier 57 that provides great views and, if you’re so inclined, drinks on the VIP rides. In one of the city’s most beloved neighborhoods you’ll find the Ballard Locks, which open and close for boats and ships—plus, during the summer you can watch salmon migrate through www.ontrakmag.com
Christopher Nelson Visit Vancouver USA
them. For some outdoor time, you’ll mix with plenty of locals at Green Lake or Alki Beach, or try renting a kayak and heading into the lake near University of Washington. A surprisingly interesting (and cool) option is Beneath the Streets, a tour that takes you underground to see historic passageways below the city. And of course, you’ll want to fight the crowds at Pike Place Market. It’s worth seeing fish thrown or buying a massive bouquet of fresh flowers. While there, you can grab a sandwich above it all at Matt’s in the Market, a great restaurant that overlooks the bustle of the market. Eight Row was named one of the best restaurants in Seattle by Eater, or you can get your seafood fix at The Walrus and The Carpenter. Fine dining options include Canlis and L’Oursin, but www.ontrakmag.com
Seattle has no shortage of great restaurants on every corner. When it’s time to rest your head, settle in at Kimpton Hotel Monaco or Kimpton Palladian Hotel, or Embassy Suites near CenturyLink Field. Enjoy the funky Maxwell Hotel, which has bikes and is dog friendly.
FALL / VANCOUVER Vancouver is another spot overlooked because of its fancy neighbor—in this case, Portland just across the river. But Vancouver is working on its specific brand of excellence—and it’s succeeding. Fall is the perfect time of year to visit the city, when the air is crisp but the rain hasn’t yet arrived (fingers crossed). Vancouver is a wealth of history—Fort Vancouver started as a fur trading post in
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Pike Place Market is iconic for a reason. Bumbershoot is a longtime music and arts festival in Seattle. Vancouver’s waterfront development shines.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Hit the slopes at Mt. Baker ski area. The Fairhaven Historic District has great shopping. Vancouver’s Pearson Air Museum takes you back in time.
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Deanna Sivret/Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism Visit Vancouver USA
THERE’S JUST SOMETHING SPECIAL ABOUT BELLINGHAM. NO MATTER THE SEASON, THIS LITTLE CITY PUNCHES BEYOND ITS WEIGHT IN DINING, SHOPPING AND OUTDOOR ADVENTURE.
the nineteenth century and served as a military post as well. Today, a replica of the fort stands on the original site, and provides a wealth of information on how early settlers to the area lived. Nearby is Pearson Air Museum, which celebrates aviation history and has a number of neat old airplanes on site. For something much more modern, check out Vancouver’s new waterfront development. The huge project turned an underused swath of riverfront property into a multiuse development that is transforming the city. There are restaurants, bars, condos and trails that will keep you busy for an entire day. At The Waterfront, grab a self-serve beer at Barlow’s Public House, order fish and chips at The Daily Catch and stroll along the Waterfront Renaissance Trail. The city has taken a cue from its neighbor to the south and gotten deep into the brewing game. Vancouver has fourteen breweries, and you’re welcome to grab a Brewcouver passport and collect stamps and prizes when you visit them. Don’t miss a hazy IPA at Trap Door Brewing. When it’s dinner time, check out Lapellah, which has a sophisticated menu often associated
with the big city. For something a little more down home, The Smokin’ Oak has everything you love about traditional barbecue joints, with a few surprises (buffalo cauliflower, anyone?). And you will not be let down by Rally Pizza, a special place in an unassuming location—order a pizza and some frozen custard and die happy. The Hotel Indigo on the Vancouver Waterfront is slated to open in 2020, and will be right in the thick of things. Other good options include The Heathman Lodge or the Hilton Vancouver Washington.
WINTER / BELLINGHAM There’s just something special about Bellingham. No matter the season, this little city punches beyond its weight in dining, shopping and outdoor adventure. Start in the Fairhaven Historic District, which features nineteenth-century Victorian architecture and charm. The district has tons of locally owned shops, including several art galleries and studios. If you’re hungry, Colophon Cafe in Fairhaven is a universal longtime favorite, with soup boards www.ontrakmag.com
PLAN YOUR TRIP SPRING
Peter James Photography/Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism
LeMay: America’s Car Museum www.americas carmuseum.org
www.ontrakmag.com
Museum of Pop Culture www.mopop.org Seattle Great Wheel www.seattlegreat wheel.com
Museum of Glass www.museum ofglass.org
Beneath the Streets www.beneath-thestreets.com
Washington State History Museum www.washington history.org
Matt’s in the Market www.mattsinthe market.com
The Children’s Museum of Tacoma www.playtacoma.org Foss Waterway Seaport www.fosswaterway seaport.org The Table www.thetable tacoma.com Pacific Grill www.pacificgrill tacoma.com
and excellent sandwiches. Or try Skylark’s Hidden Cafe for a range of delicious options. In the winter, Bellingham is an excellent jumping-off point for hitting the snow at Mt. Baker Ski Area, which is about 1.5 hours away. Or try a scenic tour along Chuckanut Drive south of Bellingham and visit small towns along the water. You’ll be able to try oysters and other seafood at Taylor Shellfish and The Oyster Bar, as well as see some of Washington’s most incredible scenery. If beer is your thing, Bellingham has you covered. The oldies are still the goodies—Boundary Bay Brewery won hearts long ago, as did Kulshan Brewing Co., and neither will let you down in your search for a good IPA. You can grab a Tap Trail passport and go as deep into the scene as you like. Right in the heart of Fairhaven is the Fairhaven Village Inn, which offers as much charm as it does proximity to the action. A mile north is The Chrysalis Inn & Spa, which pleases every traveler with its sweet location on Bellingham Bay and its delightful amenities and firstclass spa.
EAT STAY PLAY
The Lobster Shop www.lobstershop.com Dirty Oscar’s Annex www.dirtyoscars annex.com Hotel Murano www.hotelmurano tacoma.com Silver Cloud Inn www.silvercloud. com/tacoma
Eight Row www.eightrow.com Taylor Shellfish www.taylorshellfish farms.com Canlis www.canlis.com L’Oursin www.loursinseattle.com Kimpton Hotel Monaco www.monacoseattle.com Kimpton Palladian Hotel www.palladian hotel.com Maxwell Hotel www.stay pineapple.com
FALL Fort Vancouver www.nps.gov
SUMMER
Pearson Air Museum www.nps.gov
Bumbershoot www.bumbershoot. com
Barlow’s Public House www.barlows brewery.com
Seattle International Beerfest www.seattlebeer fest.com Bite of Seattle www.biteof seattle.com Chihuly Garden & Glass www.chihulygardenandglass.com
The Daily Catch www.wildfin americangrill.com Waterfront Renaissance Trail www.visitvancouver usa.com Trap Door Brewing www.trapdoor brewing.com
Lapellah www.lapellah.com The Smokin’ Oak www.facebook.com Rally Pizza www.rallypizza.com Hotel Indigo www.thewaterfront vancouverusa.com Heathman Lodge www.heathman lodge.com Hilton Vancouver Washington www3.hilton.com
WINTER Fairhaven Historic District www.bellingham.org Colophon Cafe www.colophon cafe.com Skylark’s Hidden Cafe www.skylarks hiddencafe.com Mt. Baker Ski Area www.mtbaker.us Taylor Shellfish www.taylorshellfish farms.com The Oyster Bar www.theoyster bar.net Boundary Bay Brewery www.bbay brewery.com Kulshan Brewing Co. www.kulshan brewing.com Fairhaven Village Inn www.fairhaven villageinn.com The Chrysalis Inn & Spa www.thechrysalisinn andspabellingham. curiocollection.com
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Event Calendar Day for this beautiful display of plants and garden art. The fair offers live music, fresh food, raffles and all the offerings of Downtown Camas.
DOZER DAY
CLARK COUNTY FAIRGROUNDS May 16-17 $: $8-10 www.vancouver.dozerday.org Run each year by the Vancouver nonprofit Nutter Family Foundation, this event gives kids the chance to sit in the driver’s seat of dozers, dump trucks and excavators while educating them on public safety and community sustainability. The event also features music, food and giveaways.
HAZEL DELL PARADE OF BANDS
HAZEL DELL May 16 $: Free www.hazeldellparade.com
SEATTLE INTERNATIONAL BEERFEST FISHER PAVILION & LAWN AT SEATTLE CENTER July 10-12 / $30-45 www.seattlebeerfest.com
Brewers know that Seattle in summer is the place to be. Head to Seattle Center for this special brewfest that draws drinkers and makers from around the world. Keep an eye out for specialty and limited-run tastes.
VANCOUVER WASHINGTON STATE HORSE EXPO
CLARK COUNTY EVENT CENTER, FAIRGROUNDS March 6-8 $: $10 www.washingtonhorseexpo.com Entering its tenth year, Washington’s Annual Horse Expo is the destination for horse enthusiasts. The three-day event features lauded clinicians, national experts, outstanding vendors and entertainment for the whole family.
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COUNTRY LIFE FAIR
THE POMEROY FARM May 2-3 $: Free, $3 suggested donation www.pomeroyfarm.org Celebrate spring at The Pomeroy Farm in Yacolt. This fair features demonstrations of farm skills and trades, as well as farm tours and vendors. Hayrides round out this fun event.
LANTERN TOUR: AN EVENING AT THE FORT
FORT VANCOUVER NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE November-March $: $25 www.nps.gov/fova/planyourvisit/
lantern-tour.htm Check out Fort Vancouver’s historic sites at night with a candle lantern. These tours start at 7 p.m. and groups tour with park rangers through a number of the fort’s reconstructed buildings, with costumed living history interpreters on hand as well.
CAMAS PLANT & GARDEN FAIR
DOWNTOWN CAMAS May 9 $: Free www.downtowncamas.com Thousands convene every year on the day before Mother’s
Held every year on Armed Forces Day, the parade celebrates the musical talent of the Vancouver community. Every year also features a new theme.
CRAFT BEER & WINE FESTIVAL
ESTHER SHORT PARK June 12-14 $: $26 www.thecraftwinefest.com The best wineries, craft breweries and local artisans come together every year for this annual showcase of the best that Washington has to offer. The festival also features live concerts and amazing food from local vendors.
RECYCLED ARTS FESTIVAL ESTHER SHORT PARK June 27-28 $: Free www.recycledartsfestival.com
Every year, more than 35,000 visit this two-day showcase of artwork made from at least 75 percent recycled or repurposed materials. The community event also features art, music, food and activities about recycling and reducing waste.
INDEPENDENCE DAY www.ontrakmag.com
WASHINGTON
AT FORT VANCOUVER PEARSON AIRFIELD July 4 $: Free www.thehistorictrust.org
Don’t forget a blanket to sit and watch the largest firework show in the region. The annual event has food, drinks and live music leading up to the spectacular show in the sky.
FIRE IN THE PARK
ESTHER SHORT PARK July 18 $: Free www.fireinthepark.org This annual day of fun is organized by Vancouver Firefighters Local Union 452. Numerous fire safety programs, a pipe and drum band and fun kids events make this an event you can’t miss.
INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S FESTIVAL
BETHANY VINEYARD & WINERY August 1 $: $50-75 www.womensfestivalnw.org Entering its eleventh year, the annual Women’s Festival is presented by the National Women’s Coalition Against Violence & Exploitation (NWCAVE). The daylong festival features captivating entertainers, local businesses and wine tasting all supporting the empowerment of women.
CLARK COUNTY FAIR CLARK COUNTY FAIRGROUNDS August 7-16 $: $11.25 for adults www.clarkcofair.com
Celebrate the end of summer with the numerous exhibits, concerts, food vendors, contests and rides at the Clark County Fair. The theme is #SightsToSee, so start planning accordingly.
CEDAR CREEK GRIST MILL APPLE CIDER PRESSING CEDAR CREEK GRIST MILL October 31 $: Free www.cedarcreekgristmill.org
Falling on Halloween this year, the Cedar Creek Grist Mill’s annual apple cider pressing is sure to be a spooktacular event. Nearly
www.ontrakmag.com
10,000 apples are pressed at the event, so make sure to get a jug of cider on your way out.
KELSO/ LONGVIEW FREE ADMISSION DAY MOUNT ST. HELENS VISITOR CENTER May 18 $: Free www.visitmtsthelens.com
Celebrate the fortieth anniversary of Mount St. Helens blowing its top with a free trip to the visitors center. You can learn about the blast, as well as the recovery of the area in the decades since.
OLYMPIA STORYOLY
RHYTHM & RYE March 17, April 14, May 19 (third Tuesday of month) $: Free, $5-10 suggested donation www.storyoly.com Every month, Rhythm & Rye hosts a Story Slam event inviting community members to share true stories based on a theme. This year, themes range from death to sex to wicked to trapped.
BALLET NORTHWEST’S CRESCENDO
WASHINGTON CENTER May 8-10 $: $14-35 www.washingtoncenter.org This event, part of Ballet Northwest’s fiftieth anniversary season, features the company performing with members of the Olympia Symphony. Performances will include selections from An American in Paris and Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons.
CAPITAL LAKEFAIR HERITAGE PARK July 15-19 $: Free www.lakefair.org
This celebration has been an Olympia tradition since 1957, featuring entertainment ranging from a car show to a carnival to a battle of the bands.
TACOMA WASHINGTON STATE SPRING FAIR WASHINGTON STATE FAIRGROUNDS April 16-19 $: Free www.thefair.com
Can’t wait for the Washington State Fair this summer? Try the spring fair, which has rides, a barbecue contest, baby animals, gardening workshops and agricultural exhibits. It’ll tide you over for the real deal.
GIG HARBOR BEER FESTIVAL
UPTOWN GIG HARBOR PAVILION May 16 $: $30 www.gigharborbeerfestival.com Welcome fast-approaching summer with this fundraiser for Gig Harbor’s Kiwanis Foundation. Grab your taster cup and tokens and get ready to try beers from around Oregon and Washington.
TASTE OF TACOMA
POINT DEFIANCE PARK June 19-21 $: Free www.tasteoftacoma.com The Taste of Tacoma has more than 200 food vendors on hand to give you the ultimate tasting experience. Plus, there are live bands and entertainment, as well as cook-off battles and cooking demos.
FREEDOM FAIR
TACOMA WATERFRONT July 4 $: Free www.freedomfair.com The fireworks are only part of the attraction at Tacoma’s Freedom Fair, one of the biggest Independence Day celebrations in the United States. More than 80,000 people participate in the fair, which has an air show, music, military displays and a kids park and car show.
WASHINGTON STATE FAIR WASHINGTON STATE FAIRGROUNDS September 4-27 www.thefair.com
Get ready for the full state fair experience at the Washington State Fair. The fair has from a pioneer farm to a Wild West town, from agricultural displays to animal demonstrations. There are rides and huge concerts—Carrie Underwood headlines this year.
TACOMA ARTS MONTH
MULTIPLE VENUES October 1-31 $: Free www.tacomaartsmonth.com From dance and theatre performances to art exhibits to behindthe-scenes tours, Tacoma Arts Month is chock full of entertainment. Some events are ticketed.
TACOMA ZOO BOO
POINT DEFIANCE ZOO & AQUARIUM October 17-18 $: Free with admission www.pdza.org Don those costumes and prepare for candy, games and the joy of watching animals interact with pumpkins. You receive $2 off your general admission when you dress up.
SEATTLE EMERALD CITY COMIC CON WASHINGTON STATE CONVENTION CENTER March 12-15 $: TBD www.emeraldcitycomiccon.com It doesn’t get much nerdier than Comic Con, and that’s why you will love it. As the Pacific Northwest’s largest comic and pop culture show, Emerald City Comic Con sees thousands flock to its halls every year to interact with content from their favorite creators.
SEATTLE RESTAURANT WEEK MULTIPLE VENUES March 29-April 9 $: $35 www.srw.seattletimes.com
More than 165 restaurants throughout Seattle take part in this annual event, giving foodies on a budget a chance to sample the menus
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with special three-course menus for $35.
over the greater Seattle area in public places like parks and on the street.
BACON AND BEER CLASSIC
RED WHITE & ZOO
T-MOBILE PARK April 25 $: $65-119 www.baconandbeerclassic.com
WOODLAND PARK ZOO June 27-28 $: Free with admission www.zoo.org
With more than a hundred beers on draft from breweries around the PNW, you’re already happy. Then add more than thirty bacon dishes from local chefs, bacon eating contests and games and music and this is the event of the season.
Help the Woodland Park Zoo animals celebrate the Fourth of July with a traditional picnic. Animals such as orangutans, gorillas, pigs and others will enjoy star-shaped popsicles, watermelons and corn on the cob.
HONK! FEST WEST
BITE OF SEATTLE
MULTIPLE VENUES June 5-7 $: Free www.honkfestwest.org
SEATTLE CENTER July 17-19 $: Free www.biteofseattle.com
This nonprofit, free community music festival features wild street band performances all
This iconic festival brings together some of the city’s best restaurants and bars to cele-
salmon to their home lakes and streams with a festival in beautiful Issaquah. More than 150,000 people come to the event, which features a parade, as well as live entertainment and events at the salmon hatchery.
brate all things culinary. Watch for chef demos, beer and cider tasting, a movie night, and tons of small plates.
LAKE UNION WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL
CENTER FOR WOODEN BOATS September 26-27 $: Free www.cwb.org
SEATTLE MARATHON
SEATTLE CENTER November 29 $: $95 www.seattlemarathon.org
Set sail for this annual, and popular, event on South Lake Union. With dozens of boats on display and plenty of interactive exhibits and entertainment, this event draws thousands every year.
Finish 2020 strong with a marathon through the beautiful city of Seattle. The hilly course is a Boston Marathon qualifier and people come from around the country to compete in this winter event.
SALMON DAYS FESTIVAL DOWNTOWN ISSAQUAH October 3-4 $: Free www.issaquahchamber.com/ salmondays
BELLINGHAM LADIES OF LAUGHTER:
Celebrate the return of the
Visit Seattle’s Waterfront Unique Retail | Fresh Seafood | Breathtaking Views
SEATTLE’S HISTORIC WATERFRONT– PIERS 50-70 PIER
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Fisherman’s Restaurant Seafood Dining Crab Pot Famous Seafeasts
Seattle Shirt Company BeJeweled Ivar’s Acres of Clams Let’s Go Sailing Ice Creamery Wing Dome T-Shirts & Souvenirs Jewelery & Accessories Waterfront Dining Since 1938 Charters Hot Wings & Cold Brews Vintage Carousel Premier Kidd Valley Frankly Sweets Starbucks Burgers & Shakes Meat Pies Elliott’s Oyster House The Seattle Shop Candies Shirts & Souvenirs Harley Davidson Argosy Cruises View Dining & Oyster Bar Sightseeing The Frankfurter Tillicum Excursion Fish’n Chips & Chowder Sausage Centric
The Northern Piers
Seattle Great Wheel
Passenger Ferries
Simply Seattle Bainbridge Island Bremerton Gifts & Souvenirs West Seattle Kingston Vashon Island Ivar’s Fish Bar
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Red Robin Gourmet Burgers
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Seattle Aquarium
Alaskan Sourdough Bakery Fresh Bread & Sandwiches Pirate’s Plunder Novelty Gifts
ALASKAN WAY
ALASKAN WAY
Copperworks Distilling Craft Distillery MADISON STREET
SPRING STREET
P U B L I C PA R K I N G
SENECA STREET UNION STREET
Diane’s Market Kitchen
Woodside/Braseth Gallery Fine Art
WESTERN AVENUE
PIKE MARKET HILL CLIMB
WASHINGTON
AMERICA’S FUNNIEST FEMALES
love. These furry stars have been featured on “Ellen” and “The Tonight Show,” so make sure to get a ticket ahead of time!
MOUNT BAKER THEATRE March 7 $: $20.50+ www.mountbakertheatre.com Prepare to belly laugh at this showcase of some of the funniest comedians in standup. The comedians boast past appearances on “The Late Show,” “America’s Got Talent” and Comedy Central, so expect a night full of fun!
STUNT DOG EXPERIENCE
MOUNT BAKER THEATRE March 14 $: $8.50-$16.50 www.mountbakertheatre.com Who let the dogs out? At this excitement-filled show, you’ll find dogs performing thrilling tricks that the whole family will
CASCADIA INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S FILM FESTIVAL PICKFORD FILM CENTER April 16-19 $: $12+ www.cascadiafilmfest.org
This annual, multi-day film festival showcases up to forty films—all directed by women. Categories stretch from documentaries to short films to animated features so there is an option for everyone.
SKI TO SEA
MARINE PARK May 26 $: $599 per team www.skitosea.com
BELLINGHAM SEAFEAST
Now in its forty-eighth year, the annual Ski to Sea competition is a multi-sport team relay stretching from Mt. Baker to Bellingham Bay. The race course includes seven different sports, so be sure to put in some training time beforehand.
ZUANICH POINT PARK September 19-20 $: Free www.bellinghamseafeast.org This seafood festival celebrates the region’s maritime heritage and its continued dependence on the water. You’ll enjoy all kinds of seafood snacks and lots of family-friendly activities.
ALL-COMERS TRACK AND FIELD
CIVIC STADIUM June 15-August 17, Every Monday $: Free www.cob.org
FAIRHAVEN WINTERFEST
Every Monday evening through August, the city offers track meets for people young and old. Little kids might participate in a 50-meter dash or the 50-meter hurdles, while adults can compete in javelin, shot put, running races and more.
FAIRHAVEN VILLAGE GREEN November-December $: Free www.fairhavenwinterfest.com It’s the most wonderful time of the year—get in the spirit in Bellingham’s historic neighborhood. Live music, twinkling lights, holiday window displays, and Santa are all on hand to make your season bright.
WITH THE VIADUCT GONE, the noise has been replaced with the sounds of fun! It’s easier than ever to bring your family along for a great day on Seattle’s Historic Waterfront. Leave the everyday behind and enjoy seafood restaurants, quirky shops, and sightseeing opportunities. You can enjoy the beautiful summer weather and discover the prettiest, funnest part of Seattle. Getting here is easy; and park at discounted rates in Waterfront garages. For more details, check out SeattleWaterfront.org! PIER
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Anthony’s Pier 66 Anthony’s Bell St. Diner Anthony’s Fish Bar
Bell Harbor Marina Port of Seattle Cruise Terminal
Edgewater Hotel
Victoria Clipper
ALASKAN WAY
The Southern Piers
Marriott Waterfront Hotel
FIND PARKING AT DowntownSeattleParking.com. Low rates near the Waterfront, $3-$4/hr for up to 4 hours.
You can easily get to or from the Pike Place Market from one of three elevators or the Pike Market Hill Climb steps.
Aqua Fine Dining
WASHINGTON
Where to Eat, Stay + Play EAT VANCOUVER HUDSON’S BAR AND GRILL
MCMENAMINS OLYMPIC CLUB PUB
$$, Brewpub 0.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.5164 www.mcmenamins.com
$$, American, Cocktails 6.7 MILES FROM STATION 360.816.6100 www.hudsonsbarandgrill.com Hudson’s takes the best local ingredients to craft a rustic American dining experience in The Heathman Lodge.
OLYMPIA/LACEY
KELSO/LONGVIEW
$$, Brewpub 7.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.943.3650 www.fishbrewing.com
NADO
$, Barbecue, Korean 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 360.232.8483 www.facebook.com/pages/ category/Korean-Restaurant/ NADO-328101414802509/
THE OFFICE 842
$$, Coffee, Cocktails, Tapas 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.442.4647 www.theoffice842.com
TERI’S RESTAURANT
$$, Steakhouse 3.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.577.0717 www.facebook.com/teris restaurant
URBAN SALOON & GRILL
$$, American 2.0 MILES FROM STATION 360.425.1541 www.facebook.com/ UrbanSaloon
FARRELLI’S PIZZA
$$, Italian 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 360.493.2090 www.farrellispizza.com
FISH TALE BREW PUB
IRON RABBIT RESTAURANT & BAR
$$, American 9.5 MILES FROM STATION 360.956.3661 www.ironrabbit.net
RUSH IN ALASKAN DUMPLINGS
$, Russian 8.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.943.1434 www.rushinalaskan dumplings.com
TACOMA ASADO
$$$, Argentine 4.8 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.7770 www.asadotacoma.com
THE FISH PEDDLER
$$, Seafood 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 253.627.2158 www.fishpeddler-tacoma.com
ODD OTTER BREWERY
$, Brewery 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 253.327.1680 www.oddotterbrewing.com
SEATTLE 19 GOLD
$$, Taiwanese, Bubble Tea 5.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.588.0952 www.19goldseattle.com
ASSAGGIO RISTORANTE
$$$, Italian 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.441.1399 www.assaggioseattle.com
PACIFIC GRILL
$$, American, Seafood 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 253.627.3535 www.pacificgrilltacoma.com
FROLIK KITCHEN & COCKTAILS
WOODEN CITY
$$, Tapas/Small Plates 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 253.503.0762 www.woodencitytacoma.com
TUKWILA
$$, American, Breakfast 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.971.8015 www.frolik.motifseattle.com
LITTLE WATER CANTINA
$$, Mexican 4 MILES FROM STATION 206.397.4940 www.littlewatercantina.com
MIYABI SUSHI
LOULAY KITCHEN & BAR
$$, Japanese 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 206.575.6815 www.miyabisushi.com
$$, French, Breakfast 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.402.4588 www.thechefinthehat.com
MOCTEZUMA’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT & TEQUILA BAR
MANOLIN
$$, Mexican 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 206.557.4757 www.moctezumas.com
$$, Seafood 5.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.294.3331 www.manolinseattle.com
PINE BOX
SOUTHERN GRILL
$, Southern 1.0 MILE FROM STATION 206.457.5631 www.southerngrillseattle.com
$$, Brewpub 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.588.0375 www.pineboxbar.com
THE PINK DOOR
$$, Italian, Wine Bars, Seafood 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.443.3241 www.thepinkdoor.net
CENTRALIA BOCCATA
REVEL
$$, Mediterranean 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.2404 www.facebook.com/boccata
$$, Asian Fusion, Korean 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.547.2040 www.revelseattle.com Iron Rabbit Restaurant & Bar
LA TARASCA
$$, Mexican 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.7756 www.facebook.com/LaTarasca-172945187142
TANAKASAN
$$, Asian Fusion 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.812.8412 www.tanakasanseattle.com
Iron Rabbit Restaurant & Bar / Olympia
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Hotel Murano
WASHINGTON
WESTWARD
TAQUERIA MI COCINA
EDMONDS
MOUNT VERNON
ARNIES RESTAURANT
COA MEXICAN EATERY
BUCATINI
THE LUNCHBOX DINER
$$, Mediterranean, Breakfast, American 5.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.552.8215 www.westwardseattle.com
$$, Seafood 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 425.771.5688 www.arniesrestaurant.com $$, Italian, Wine Bar 2.0 MILES FROM STATION 425.361.1487 www.bucatiniedmonds.com
EVERETT ANTHONY’S HOMEPORT
$$, Seafood 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 425.252.3333 www.anthonys.com
K FRESH
$$, Korean 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 425.212.9863 www.hellokfresh.com
STANWOOD CROW ISLAND FARMS
$$$, Seafood 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 360.572.3249 www.crowislandfarms.net
THE POLSKA KUCHNIA
$$, Polish 246 FEET FROM STATION 206.355.2893 www.polskakuchniabistro.com
SHIMA
$$, Sushi Bar, Japanese 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 360.629.7799 www.shimastanwood.com
STANWOOD GRILL
$$, American 289 FEET FROM STATION 360.629.5253 www.stanwoodgrill.com
$, Mexican 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.926.8364 www.taqueria-mi-cocinallc.hub.biz
$$, Mexican 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.840.1938 www.coaeatery.com $$, Cafe, Diner 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.336.2026 www.thelunchboxdinerwa.com
PYUNG CHANG KOREAN BBQ $$, Korean 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.450.3333 www.pyungchangbbq.com
SKAGIT RIVER BREWERY
$$, Brewpub 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.336.2884 www.skagitbrew.com
THE UPCOUNTRY
$$$$, American 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.588.4100 www.facebook.com/the upcountry
PEL’MENI
$, Russian 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 360.715.8324 www.dumplingtzar.com
SALTINE
$$, American, Cocktail Bar 3.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.392.8051 www.saltinebellingham.com
STAY VANCOUVER THE HEATHMAN LODGE
MCMENAMINS—OLYMPIC CLUB HOTEL & THEATER 0.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.5164 www.mcmenamins.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY THE INN AT MALLARD COVE
11.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.491.9795 www.theinnatmallardcove.com
RAMADA BY WYNDHAM OLYMPIA
5.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.459.8866 www.wyndhamhotels.com
RED LION HOTEL
8 MILES FROM STATION 360.943.4000 www.redlion.com
$$, Chicken Shop, Southern 2.9 MILES FROM STATION 360.788.4507 www.bantambellingham.com
6.7 MILES FROM STATION 360.254.3100 www.heathmanlodge.com Rustic charm, enhanced by modern amenities and exceptional service, creates a lodging atmosphere that is both peaceful and productive.
COLOPHON CAFÉ
KELSO/LONGVIEW
4.2 MILES FROM STATION 253.383.3504 www.geigervictorian.com
BEST WESTERN ALADDIN INN
HOTEL MURANO
MONTICELLO HOTEL
SILVER CLOUD INN TACOMA WATERFRONT
BELLINGHAM BANTAM 46
$$, Café, Salad, Sandwiches 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.647.0092 www.colophoncafe.com
LEAF & LADLE
$$, Soup, Sandwiches 3.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.319.9718 www.facebook.com/leafandladle
MAGDALENA’S CREPERIE
$$, Breakfast, Brunch, Desserts 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.483.8569 www.magdalenascreperie.com
www.ontrakmag.com
Hotel Murano / Tacoma
0.9 MILES FROM STATION 360.425.9660 www.bestwestern.com 2.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.425.9900
CENTRALIA
TACOMA GEIGER VICTORIAN BED & BREAKFAST
1.5 MILES FROM STATION 253.238.8000 www.hotelmuranotacoma.com
3.9 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.1300 www.silvercloud.com
CENTRALIA SQUARE HOTEL 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.807.1212 www.centraliasquare.com
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WASHINGTON
CEDARBROOK LODGE
SeaTac 4.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.901.9268 www.cedarbrooklodge.com
SPRINGHILL SUITES
Renton 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 425.226.4100 www.marriott.com
SEATTLE BELLTOWN INN
1.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.529.3700 www.belltown-inn.com
GREENLAKE GUEST HOUSE
7.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.729.8700 www.greenlakeguesthouse.com
HOTEL 1000
0.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.957.1000 www.hotel1000seattle.com
HOTEL MONACO
0.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.621.1770 www.monaco-seattle.com
GRAND HYATT
Seattle 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.774.1234 www.hyatt.com
INN AT THE MARKET
1.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.443.3600 www.innatthemarket.com
KIMPTON ALEXIS HOTEL
1.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.621.9000 www.sheratonseattle.com
SORRENTO HOTEL
1.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.622.6400 www.hotelsorrento.com
EDMONDS BEST WESTERN PLUS EDMONDS HARBOR INN
0.2 MILES FROM STATION 425.771.5021 www.book.bestwestern.com
COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT SEATTLE NORTH 5.3 MILES FROM STATION 425.670.0500 www.marriott.com
BEST WESTERN PLUS NAVIGATOR INN & SUITES
PLEASANT RIDGE BED & BREAKFAST
7.1 MILES FROM STATION 425.347.2555 www.bestwestern.com
9.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.466.2444 www.pleasantridgebb.com
HAMPTON INN
TULIP INN
0.9 MILES FROM STATION 425.349.4466 hamptoninn3.hilton.com
1.8 MILES FROM STATION 800.599.5969 www.tulipinn.net
HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS & SUITES
WHISPERING FIRS BED & BREAKFAST
7.8 MILES FROM STATION 425.609.4000 www.ihg.com
5.2 MILES FROM STATION 800.428.1992 www.whisperingfirs.com
INN AT PORT GARDNER
BELLINGHAM
2.4 MILES FROM STATION 425.252.6779 www.innatportgardner.com
STANWOOD
THE MAXWELL HOTEL
1.4 MILES FROM STATION 360.629.2888 www.stanwoodhotelsaloon.com
THE MOORE HOTEL
1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.448.4851 www.moorehotel.com
THE PARAMOUNT HOTEL
1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.292.9500 www.paramounthotel seattle.com
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Museum of Pop Culture / Seattle
EVERETT
0.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.624.4844 www.alexishotel.com 2.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.286.0629 www.staypineapple.com
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SEATTLE SHERATON
Visit Seattle
TUKWILA
STANWOOD HOTEL & SALOON
MOUNT VERNON BEST WESTERN PLUS SKAGIT VALLEY INN 1.9 MILES FROM STATION 360.428.5678 www.book.bestwestern.com
BEST WESTERN PLUS BELLINGHAM AIRPORT HOTEL AND FOX HALL EVENTS CENTER
6.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.676.7700 www.bwbellinghamairport hotel.com Newly renovated hotel only 10 minutes from the Fairhaven Amtrak Station in Bellingham! Shuttle service available!
THE CHRYSALIS INN & SPA 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.756.1005 www.thechrysalisinn.com
FAIRHAVEN VILLAGE INN
0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.733.1311 www.fairhavenvillageinn.com
HOTEL BELLWETHER
4 MILES FROM STATION 360.392.3100 www.hotelbellwether.com
OXFORD SUITES BELLINGHAM 5.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.676.1400 www.oxfordsuites bellingham.com
TOWNEPLACE SUITES
6.0 MILES FROM STATION 844.631.0595 www.marriott.com
PLAY VANCOUVER THE BRAUTIGAN LIBRARY
1.0 MILE FROM STATION 360.993.5679 www.thebrautiganlibrary.org
KIGGINS THEATRE
0.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.816.0352 www.kigginstheatre.com
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WASHINGTON
KELSO/LONGVIEW COWLITZ COUNTY TOURISM VISIT MOUNT ST. HELENS 15.6 MILES FROM STATION 360.577.3137 www.visitmtsthelens.com
KELSO THEATER PUB
0.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.414.9451 www.ktpub.com
CENTRALIA CENTRALIA FACTORY OUTLETS 2.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.3900 https://centraliaoutlets.com
CENTRALIA FOX THEATRE
0.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.623.1103 www.centraliafoxtheatre.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY CAPITOL TOURS
7.5 MILES FROM STATION 360.902.8880 www.experienceolympia.com
LITTLE CREEK CASINO RESORT Shelton 20.6 MILES FROM STATION 800.667.7711 www.little-creek.com
RHYTHM & RYE
7.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.705.0760 www.facebook.com/ rhythmandrye
TACOMA LEMAY: AMERICA’S CAR MUSEUM
0.7 MILES FROM STATION 253.779.8490 www.americascarmuseum.org
MUSEUM OF GLASS
0.9 MILES FROM STATION 253.284.4750 www.museumofglass.org
POINT DEFIANCE ZOO & AQUARIUM
7.4 MILES FROM STATION 253.404.3800 www.pdza.org
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TACOMA ART MUSEUM
1.2 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.4258 www.tacomaartmuseum.org
THORNEWOOD CASTLE
11.8 MILES FROM STATION 253.584.4393 www.thornewoodcastle.com
WASHINGTON STATE HISTORY MUSEUM
1.8 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.3500 www.washingtonhistory.org
TUKWILA MUSEUM OF FLIGHT
5.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.764.5700 www.museumofflight.org
SEATTLE OUR PICKS BENEATH THE STREETS
0.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.624.1237 www.beneath-thestreets.com Guided underground history tours through and below the streets of historic Pioneer Square. 102 Cherry Street. Open daily.
BELLEVUE ARTS MUSEUM
Bellevue 10.7 MILES FROM STATION 425.519.0770 www.bellevuearts.org
CHIHULY GARDEN AND GLASS 2.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.753.4940 www.chihulygardenandglass. com
MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND INDUSTRY
2.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.324.1126 www.mohai.org
MUSEUM OF POP CULTURE 2.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.770.2700 www.mopop.org
NEPTUNE THEATRE
4.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.682.1414 www.stgpresents.org
NORTHWEST OUTDOOR CENTER
3.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.281.9694 www.nwoc.com
OLYMPIC SCULPTURE PARK 2 MILES FROM STATION 206.654.3100 www.seattleartmuseum.org
PIKE PLACE MARKET
1.4 MILES FROM STATION 206.682.7453 www.pikeplacemarket.org
SEATTLE AQUARIUM
1.0 MILES FROM STATION 206.386.4300 www.seattleaquarium.org
SEATTLE ART MUSEUM
0.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.654.3100 www.seattleartmuseum.org
THE SEATTLE METAPHYSICAL LIBRARY
6.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.329.1794 www.seattlemetaphysical library.org
WOODLAND PARK ZOO
5.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.548.2500 www.zoo.org
EDMONDS CASCADIA ART MUSEUM
0.3 MILES FROM STATION 425.336.4809 www.cascadiaartmuseum.org
EDMONDS CENTER FOR THE ARTS
0.6 MILES FROM STATION 425.275.9595 www.edmondscenter forthearts.com
VISIT EDMONDS
0.5 MILES FROM STATION 1.877.775.6935 www.visitedmonds.com
EVERETT FUTURE OF FLIGHT AVIATION CENTER & BOEING TOUR Mukilteo 8 MILES FROM STATION 1.800.464.1476 www.futureofflight.org
XFINITY ARENA AT EVERETT 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 425.322.2600 www.angelofthewinds arena.com
STANWOOD STANWOOD CINEMAS
1.5 MILES FROM STATION 360.629.8305 www.farawayentertainment.com
MOUNT VERNON DOWNTOWN MOUNT VERNON 360.336.3801 www.mountvernon downtown.org
LINCOLN THEATRE
0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.336.8955 www.lincolntheatre.org
BELLINGHAM BELLINGHAM RAILWAY MUSEUM
3.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.393.7540 www.bellinghamrailway museum.org
MOUNT BAKER THEATRE
3.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.734.6080 www.mountbakertheatre.com
SPARK MUSEUM OF ELECTRICAL INVENTION 3.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.738.3886 www.sparkmuseum.org
WHATCOM MUSEUM
3.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.778.8930 www.whatcommuseum.org
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WHILE JAPAN IS CONSIDERED THE WORLD’S TOP CHERRY BLOSSOM DESTINATION, A SUBURB OF VANCOUVER IS A CLOSE SECOND.
Cherry blossoms abound in Vancouver and its suburbs.
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VANCOUVER, BC
Visiting Vancouver
NO MATTER THE TIME OF YEAR, VANCOUVER HAS PLENTY TO KEEP YOU BUSY WRITTEN BY MICHELLE HOPKINS
VANCOUVER IS A world-class urban city of dramatic, mountainous landscapes, surrounded by creeks and inlets and colorful neighborhoods. It’s no wonder Vancouver ranked #21 in the Big 7 Travel’s Top 50 Bucket List Destinations In The World: 2019 (the only Canadian city to make the list). Whatever season you choose to visit Hollywood North, there is plenty to see and do. Outdoor enthusiasts have long visited for the adrenaline-rush adventure sports—sailing, scuba diving, sea kayaking, rafting, mountain biking and rock climbing are all big hits in the summer. During the colder months, visitors head to the slopes, as well as to cross country ski, ice skate and snowshoe. If you are planning your itinerary, however, make sure to time your trip to coincide with some of the best events in Vancouver and surrounding neighborhoods. For a place that once held the “No Fun City” moniker back in 2012, OnTrak is here to debunk that nickname with an insider’s guide to some of the best events and festivals Vancouver has to offer.
www.ontrakmag.com
Grant Harder
SPRING This season signifies a time of renewal and the cycle of life, and with that comes the promise of cherry blossoms. While Japan is considered the world’s top cherry blossom destination, a suburb of Vancouver is a close second. Every April, the Richmond Cherry Blossom Festival showcases 255 Akebono cherry blossom trees at Garry Point Park, at the mouth of the Fraser River. The grove of trees is 2020 /
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INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL
CENTER Cornucopia is a first-class culinary event in Whistler. FAR RIGHT The Richmond Night Market features tons of international cuisine vendors. photos, at left from top: Vancouver Aquarium; Vancouver International Children’s Festival
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Mike Crane/Tourism Whistler
VANCOUVER AQUARIUM
the backdrop for a day of traditional Japanese music and dance performances, delicious food options and fun activities celebrated in Japan. While here, take in the many food stations serving bento boxes, yakitori skewers and Japanese-inspired hot dogs. There is plenty of opportunity to keep your kids happy at the Vancouver International Children’s Festival. There are live performances, acrobats, LED glow-in-the-dark puppets, while the activity stage will keep your kids entertained with a magical mystery maze, circus arts, waterworks, canoeing, games, crafts, face painting and origami. After, head to Granville Island Public Market where everyone’s palate will be satisfied. If you consider yourself a bit of a cowboy or cowgirl, you will want to venture into the Fraser Valley for one of the best rodeos the West has ever seen. The Cloverdale Rodeo & Country Fair is a four-day rodeo that pits world-class cowboys and cowgirls competing in saddle bronc riding, bareback riding, bull riding and barrel racing for $300,000 in prizes. Worthy of the hourdrive from Vancouver, the fair is celebrating its
seventy-fourth year and promises four days of buckin’ broncos, mutton bustin’, barrel racing and more.
SUMMER Vancouverites embrace summer with absolute abandon. Mingle with locals in July when English Bay lights up the skies for the annual Honda Celebration of Light. Dubbed the world’s longest-running offshore fireworks competition, the family-friendly pyrotechnic displays attract hundreds of thousands of spectators to catch three competing countries on each of three days. A little planning and you can get a reservation at Granville Island’s iconic Bridges Restaurant, where you’ll have front-row seats to all of the excitement and some of the best seafood dishes. If you love Shakespeare, book a night at Bard on the Beach—famous for staging Shakespeare with a twist. This annual festival is set off the shores of Kitsilano Beach under white tents in Vanier Park. A short drive from Vancouver, Richmond is home to the Richmond Night Market. This annual summer night market features more than www.ontrakmag.com
120 food vendors, showcasing international cuisine—everything from Afghan bolani to Korean drumsticks and everything in between.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
FALL
Richmond Cherry Blossom Festival www.richmond.ca
Although fall might be considered the shoulder season in Whistler, it’s actually a great time to visit because Whistler plays host to one of the best culinary events in BC. Like its moniker implies, Cornucopia draws nearly 20,000 guests each year over eleven days. This celebration of food and drink brings together local and international restaurants and acclaimed chefs while highlighting the exceptional wines, beers and spirits from Canada and beyond. Make sure to make a reservation at Bearfoot Bistro, one of Whistler’s iconic restaurants, where you will dine on masterfully prepared cuisine. As you head back to Vancouver, don’t miss EAT! Vancouver Food + Cooking Festival— the ultimate foodie binge-worthy festival. Touted as one of Canada’s most anticipated world-class culinary festivals, EAT! offers everything from tasting events to star-studded intimate dinners, and www.ontrakmag.com
SPRING
Vancouver International Children’s Festival www.childrens festival.ca Granville Island Public Market www.granville island.com Cloverdale Rodeo & Country Fair www.cloverdale rodeo.com
SUMMER Honda Celebration of Light www.honda celebration oflight.com
EAT STAY PLAY
Bridges Restaurant www.bridges restaurant.com Bard on the Beach www.bardonthe beach.org Richmond Night Market www.richmond nightmarket.com
FALL Cornucopia www.whistler cornucopia.com Bearfoot Bistro www.bearfoot bistro.com EAT! Vancouver Food + Cooking Festival www.eat-vancouver. com
Cactus Club Cafe Coal Harbour www.cactusclub cafe.com
WINTER Vancouver Aquarium www.vanaqua.org Capilano Suspension Bridge Park www.capbridge.com Bufala Edgemont www.bufala.ca/ edgemont Vallea Lumina www.vallea lumina.com Araxi Restaurant & Oyster Bar www.araxi.com
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Vallea Lumina lights up the woods each winter.
more. Afterward, dine at Cactus Club Cafe’s Coal Harbour, where the food is only rivaled by the spectacular ocean and mountain views.
WINTER There is lots to do in Vancouver this wintry season. First off, who doesn’t love Santa and his elves? What about scuba diving in a tank at the Vancouver Aquarium? Your children (and you too), will not only revel in watching Santa swim among sea life, but also marvel at the glow of an eel-powered tree. Then, check out the thousands of ocean species and aquatic life. When the kids get hungry, the Aquarium’s Courtyard Café offers delicious burgers with killer fries. When the sun starts setting, it’s time to drive to North Vancouver’s Capilano Suspension Bridge Park for its Canyon Lights. Named one of the nine most spectacular holiday light displays in the world by CNN Travel in 2017, you will be in awe of this dazzling West Coast winter wonderland. A short drive from the Canyon Lights display, warm up on some rustic Italian cuisine at Bufala Edgemont. I suggest the bone marrow pizza, ravioli or rigatoni—all delicious. Then, get ready for a mind-blowing experience. A mere hour and a half from Vancouver via the Sea to Sky Highway, Whistler’s award-winning Vallea Lumina will astound you as it transports you on a multimedia night journey through luminous visions and hidden wonders in the forest of Cougar Mountain. Reserve your table at Araxi Restaurant & Oyster Bar for a farm-to-table dining experience.
A MERE HOUR AND A HALF FROM VANCOUVER VIA THE SEA TO SKY HIGHWAY, WHISTLER’S AWARDWINNING VALLEA LUMINA WILL ASTOUND YOU AS IT TRANSPORTS YOU ON A MULTIMEDIA NIGHT JOURNEY THROUGH LUMINOUS VISIONS AND HIDDEN WONDERS IN THE FOREST OF COUGAR MOUNTAIN. 68
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VANCOUVER, BC
Event Calendar first day features a round robin. On the second day the teams play for medals.
WILCO
ORPHEUM THEATRE March 21 $: C$70.80+ www.vancouvercivictheatres.com See indie darlings Wilco at the historic Orpheum, which has been serving loyal Vancouverites for more than ninety years. You’ll be treated to Wilco’s alt-country classics, as well as its more recent genre-bending hits.
BATTLE OF THE BRUSH HERITAGE HALL March 27 $: C$15-25 www.goldenbrushart.com
This live painting competition pits teams of artists against each other in a timed setting. Guest judges and eventually the crowd determine which team reigns supreme. There’s also a halftime musical performance, and local DJs spin throughout the evening. The theme this time? Sex symbols.
CANYON LIGHTS
CAPILANO SUSPENSION BRIDGE PARK
November-January / C$39.95-53.95 www.capbridge.com
Celebrate the twinkly-light season at Capilano Suspension Bridge Park, which stays open until 9 p.m. so visitors can check out the lights from the bridge, Cliffwalk, the rainforest and the canyon. Treetops Adventure, a series of seven suspension bridges attached to Douglas firs, are also lit.
VANCOUVER CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL MULTIPLE LOCATIONS April 2-26 $: Prices vary www.vcbf.ca
Celebrate spring by getting outside and seeing the beauty around you. The city’s cherry blossom festival features walking tours, a Japanese culture festival, biking, even Cherry Jam Downtown, a noon concert on April 2 and 3.
WHISTLER WORLD SKI & SNOWBOARD FESTIVAL VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL DANCE FESTIVAL MULTIPLE VENUES March 6-28 $: Prices vary www.vidf.ca
This contemporary dance festival has a wide variety of performances from diverse and dynamic groups. The shows take place throughout Vancouver, and some are free. From ballet to butoh
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and everything in between, you’ll find something beautiful.
HSBC CANADA SEVENS BC PLACE March 7-8 $: C$70-289 www.canadasevens.com
Get ready for the excitement of rugby sevens, a dynamic sport that debuted at the Olympics in Rio in 2016. Sixteen teams divide into four pools, and the
WHISTLER BLACKCOMB April 16-26 $: Free www.wssf.com
This festival has free outdoor concerts, ski and snowboard demos, and competitions all over the mountain, getting you up close and personal with some of the best that snow sports has to offer.
VANCOUVER SUN RUN THURLOW & GEORGIA
STREETS April 19 $: C$49-59 www.vancouversunrun.com Canada’s largest 10K race features a course that runs through downtown to Stanley Park and across the Cambie Street Bridge. After the run, head to BC Place for the wrap party.
CRAFTED VANCOUVER
MULTIPLE VENUES May 1-25 $: Free www.craftedvancouver.com If you appreciate vibrant hand-crafted pieces, you’ll want to check out Crafted Vancouver, a twenty-five-day festival designed to bring together makers and those eager to learn new crafts. Exhibits and events take place in galleries, museums and shops all over the city.
BMO VANCOUVER MARATHON
QUEEN ELIZABETH PARK May 3 $: C$20-230 www.bmovanmarathon.ca This marathon is considered one of the best races in the world, thanks to its scenic views and its role as a qualifier for the Boston Marathon. If a marathon is a little much for you, there are other race lengths—or be a spectator as the race winds through this beautiful city.
DOXA FESTIVAL
MULTIPLE VENUES May 7-17 $: C$11-115 www.doxafestival.ca Each year, the Vancouver nonprofit Documentary Media Society puts on this festival of short and full-length documentaries. The films are shown at venues all over the city, and the event features other programs like filmmaker panels.
VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL GRANVILLE ISLAND May 25-31 $: C$12.50+ www.childrensfestival.ca
Theater, music, dance and other
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VANCOUVER, BC
art forms populate this multidisciplinary event, which was the first of its kind in North America. The festival seeks to inspire kids with performances and fun.
VANCOUVER CRAFT BEER WEEK FESTIVAL
CONCORD COMMUNITY PARK June 5-7 $: C$69 www.vancouvercraftbeer week.com Going into its eleventh year, this festival started as a small event with fifteen breweries but now counts more than a hundred on hand to pour, from British Columbia and beyond.
BARD ON THE BEACH
VANIER PARK June 11-September 26 $: Prices vary www.bardonthebeach.org The Shakespeare spirit is alive and well at this annual festival. The event features four productions on two stages—this year A Midsummer Night’s Dream and Henry V on the mainstage and Love’s Labour’s Lost and Paradise Lost on the Howard Family Stage.
HEROES: A VIDEO GAME SYMPHONY
ORPHEUM THEATRE June 12-13 $: C$26.50-79.50 www.vancouversymphony.ca The symphony isn’t always stuffy. In this special concert, the Vancouver Symphony Orchestra takes on music from popular video games such as Halo and The Elder Scrolls. While the music plays, synced clips from the video games will play on the big screen.
THEATRE UNDER THE STARS
MALKIN BOWL, STANLEY PARK July-August $: C$30-55 www.tuts.ca Get ready for live musical theater outdoors, in one of the most beautiful parks in North America. This year, Theatre Under the Stars will present Hello Dolly! and Disney’s Beauty and the Beast.
www.ontrakmag.com
CANADA DAY
FORT LANGLEY NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE July 1 $: Free www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/ bc/langley Celebrate Canada where British Columbia was born—Fort Langley. The Canada Day celebration features birthday cake, music and a noon ceremony, plus family activities.
THE DEIGHTON CUP
HASTINGS RACECOURSE July 18 $: TBD www.deightoncup.com Grab your best fancy hat, because the Deighton Cup is an event at which to see and be seen. The fashionable event features horse racing, plus art, music and cocktails. There’s a giant daytime festival for the 7,000 visitors dressed in their finest.
HONDA CELEBRATION OF LIGHT ENGLISH BAY July 25, July 29, August 1 $: Free www.hondacelebration oflight.com
Each year, three countries battle it out for the best fireworks show. Join the fun in this threenight celebration that matches fireworks displays with music and includes a music festival at Sunset Beach.
VANCOUVER PRIDE PARADE
ROBSON & THURLOW STREETS August 2 $: Free www.vancouverpride.ca This enormous celebration of diversity and inclusion has been going on for decades. The parade features thousands of revelers and ends at Sunset Beach with a huge festival.
DAVE MATTHEWS BAND ROGERS ARENA September 2 $: C$38.50-118.50 www.rogersarena.com
Get your ’90s fix with a Dave Matthews Band arena show. The band is doing an extensive
2020 North American tour, adding to the more than 25 million tickets it has sold over the years.
no gory costumes. Some events are ticketed.
VANCOUVER FRINGE FESTIVAL
MULTIPLE VENUES September 10-20 $: Prices vary www.vancouverfringe.com Theater of all kinds is on display during this festival. With more than 700 performances and more than 40,000 people attending, it’s a popular event. Mainstage shows are drawn from a hat, allowing everyone a chance to participate, and artists get all box office revenue from the festival.
BROADWAY ACROSS CANADA PRESENTS CHICAGO
QUEEN ELIZABETH THEATRE September 15-20 $: Prices vary www.broadwayacrosscanada.ca One of the most-loved musicals hits Vancouver. Chicago follows Velma and Roxie, two murderers imprisoned at the Cook County Jail, through ’20s-style musical numbers and Fossestyle dancing.
VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL FILM CENTRE September 24-October 9 $: Prices vary www.viff.org This is one of the largest film festivals in North America, and it offers the biggest selection of East Asian films outside, that’s right, East Asia. The festival also has a large number of Canadian films and others screened at top festivals. The lineup comes out in September.
VANCOUVER HALLOWEEN PARADE & EXPO 2020 ROBSON SQUARE October 9-11 $: Free www.vanhalloween.com
This three-day festival centers on a huge parade described as “the world’s largest cosplay stage.” It also focuses its efforts on family friendliness, meaning
PBR MONSTER ENERGY TOUR
ABBOTSFORD CENTRE October 17 See some of Canada’s top cowboys as they compete at the Abbotsford Classic to see who is the best bull rider. This Professional Bull Riders event is a great chance to see cowboys in action.
THE VANCOUVER WRITERS FEST
GRANVILLE ISLAND October 19-25 www.writersfest.bc.ca You’ll hear from your favorite writers and learn about books you’ve never heard of at this weeklong event that celebrates the magic of books.
BROADWAY ACROSS CANADA PRESENTS JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR
QUEEN ELIZABETH THEATRE October 28-November 1 $: Prices vary www.broadwayacrosscanada.ca See some of the world’s best musical theater performers take on Jesus Christ Superstar, that quintessential 1970s rock opera from Andrew Lloyd Webber.
EASTSIDE CULTURE CRAWL VANCOUVER’S EASTSIDE November 19-22 $: Free www.culturecrawl.ca
More than 30,000 visitors come to the east side of Vancouver for this four-day event focused on visual design, arts and crafts. More than 500 artists open their studios in buildings throughout the area to give people an inside look.
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VANCOUVER, BC
Where to Eat, Stay + Play EAT ASK FOR LUIGI
$$, Italian 1.4 KM FROM STATION 604.428.2544 www.askforluigi.com
BAO BEI CHINESE BRASSERIE $$$, Chinese 850 METERS FROM STATION 604.688.0876 www.bao-bei.ca
BLUE WATER CAFE
$$, Seafood 2.3 KM FROM STATION 604.688.8078 www.bluewatercafe.net
BOULEVARD KITCHEN & OYSTER BAR
Christopher Flett
$$$, Seafood, Steakhouse 2.6 KM FROM STATION 604.642.2900 www.boulevardvancouver.ca
CACTUS CLUB CAFE
$$, Canadian 3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.620.7410 www.cactusclubcafe.com
CHAMBAR
$$$, Belgian, Breakfast 1.4 KM FROM STATION 604.879.7119 www.chambar.com
CIOPPINO’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL & ENOTECA $$$$, Mediterranean, Italian 2.3 km from station 604.688.7466 www.cioppinosyaletown.com
CUCHILLO
$$, Latin American 1.2 KM FROM STATION 604.559.7585 www.cuchillo.ca
THE DIAMOND
$$, Gastropub 1.5 KM FROM STATION www.di6mond.com
DINESTY DUMPLING HOUSE $$, Chinese 3.7 KM FROM STATION www.dinesty.ca
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Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie / Vancouver, BC
EGG & CO
FRITZ EUROPEAN FRY HOUSE
FABLE KITCHEN
GUU WITH GARLIC
$$, Breakfast/Brunch 3.4 KM FROM STATION 604.336.9301 www.eggandco.ca
$, Fast Food, Modern European 2.6 KM FROM STATION 604.684.0811 www.fritzeuropeanfryhouse.com
KINTARO RAMEN
$, Asian 3.8 KM FROM STATION 604.682.7568 www.facebook.com/pages/Kintaro-Ramen/104663182929320
$$, Japanese, Tapas Bar 3.6 KM FROM STATION 604.685.8678 www.guu-izakaya.com
KIRIN
THE FISH COUNTER
JULES
L’ABATTOIR
FORAGE
THE KEEFER BAR
LA TAQUERIA PINCHE TACO SHOP
$$, Canadian 4.4 KM FROM STATION 604.732.1322 www.fablekitchen.ca $$, Fish & Chips, Seafood 2.6 KM FROM STATION 604.876.3474 www.thefishcounter.com $$, Canadian (New), Breakfast & Brunch 3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.661.1400 www.foragevancouver.com
FORTY NINTH PARALLEL CAFÉ $, Coffee, Donuts 1.8 KM FROM STATION 604.872.4901 www.49thcoffee.com
$$, French 1.7 KM FROM STATION 604.669.0033 www.julesbistro.ca $$$, Cocktails, Asian Small Plates 850 METERS FROM STATION 604.688.1961 www.thekeeferbar.com
KINGYO
$$, Japanese, Tapas/Small Plates 4.0 KM FROM STATION 604.608.1677 www.kingyo-izakaya.ca
$$, Seafood, Dim Sum MULTIPLE LOCATIONS www.kirinrestaurants.com $$$, French, Canadian 1.4 km from station 604.568.1701 www.labattoir.ca
$, Mexican 2.0 KM FROM STATION 604.558.2549 www.lataqueria.com
MANOUSH’EH
$, Lebanese 2.5 KM FROM STATION 604.440.4402 www.manousheh.ca
www.ontrakmag.com
VANCOUVER, BC
MARUTAMA RAMEN
$$, Asian 3.6 KM FROM STATION 604.688.8837 www.marutama.ca
MEDINA CAFE
$$, Breakfast/Brunch, Moroccan, Middle Eastern 2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.879.3114 www.medinacafe.com
NOVO PIZZERIA & WINE BAR $$, Italian, Wine 4 KM FROM STATION 604.736.2220 www.novopizzeria.com
NUBA IN GASTOWN
$$, Mediterranean, Lebanese 1.8 KM FROM STATION 604.688.1655 www.nuba.ca
SAVARY ISLAND PIE COMPANY $$, Bakery, Coffee 10.6 KM FROM STATION 604.926.4021 www.savaryislandpiecompany. com
SO HYANG KOREAN CUISINE $$, Korean 5.6 km from station 604.729.0702 www.sohyang.ca
TAVOLA
$$$, Italian 3.8 KM FROM STATION 604.606.4680 www.tavolavancouver.com
WILDEBEEST
$$$, Gastropub, Canadian 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.687.6880 www.wildebeest.ca
OCTOPUS’ GARDEN
YALETOWN BREWING CO. $$, Brewpub 2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.681.2739 www.mjg.ca
STAY AUBERGE VANCOUVER HOTEL 2.6 KM FROM STATION 604.678.8899 www.aubergevancouver.com
BARCLAY HOUSE
3.5 KM FROM STATION 604.605.1351 www.barclayhouse.com
BEE & THISTLE GUEST HOUSE 3.3 KM FROM STATION 604.669.0715 www.beeandthistle.ca
THE BURRARD
2.9 KM FROM STATION 604.681.2331 www.theburrard.com
COAST COAL HARBOUR HOTEL 2.7 KM FROM STATION 604.697.0202 www.coasthotels.com
COAST VANCOUVER AIRPORT HOTEL
9.3 KM FROM STATION 604.263.1555 www.coasthotels.com
THE DOUGLAS HOTEL
1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.676.0889 www.marriott.com
$$$, Japanese, Sushi 4.5 KM FROM STATION 604.734.8971 www.octopusgardencanada.com
ENGLISH BAY INN
OPUS BAR
2.2 KM FROM STATION 604.632.3000 www.hotellesoleil.com
5 KM FROM STATION 604.683.8002 www.englishbayinn.com
EXECUTIVE HOTEL LESOLEIL
$$, Cocktails, Small Plates, Breakfast 2.2 KM FROM STATION 866.642.6787 www.opushotel.com
EXECUTIVE HOTEL VINTAGE PARK
2.9 KM FROM STATION 604.688.7678 www.vancouverdowntown hotel.net
PHNOM PENH
$$, Cambodian, Vietnamese 850 M FROM STATION 604.682.5777 www.phnompenhrestaurant.ca
FAIRMONT PACIFIC RIM 2.7 KM FROM STATION 604.695.5300 www.fairmont.com
SAKU
$$, Japanese 3.0 KM FROM STATION 778.379.5872 www.sakuvancouver.com
GEORGIAN COURT HOTEL 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.682.5555 www.georgiancourthotel vancouver.com
SALT TASTING ROOM
$$, Wine, Tapas, Small Plates 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.633.1912 www.salttastingroom.com
GRANVILLE HOUSE B&B 6.3 KM FROM STATION 604.739.9002 www.granvillebb.com
SAL Y LIMON
$, Mexican 2.4 KM FROM STATION 604.677.4247 www.salylimon.ca
GRANVILLE ISLAND HOTEL
4.4 KM FROM STATION 604.683.7373 www.granvilleislandhotel.com
HOTEL AT THE WALDORF The Burrard / Vancouver, BC
www.ontrakmag.com
3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.253.7141 www.hotelatthewaldorf.ca
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VANCOUVER, BC
HOTEL BLU
1.7 KM FROM STATION 604.620.6200 www.hotelbluvancouver.com
HOTEL BLUE HORIZON
2.9 KM FROM STATION 604.688.1411 www.bluehorizonhotel.com
THE KINGSTON HOTEL
2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.684.9024 www.kingstonhotel vancouver.com
THE LANDIS HOTEL & SUITES
3 KM FROM STATION 604.681.3555 www.landissuitesvancouver.com
L’HERMITAGE HOTEL
2 KM FROM STATION 778.327.4100 www.lhermitagevancouver.com
THE LISTEL HOTEL
3.4 KM FROM STATION 604.669.5060 www.theloden.com
OPUS HOTEL
2.2 km from station 1.866.642.6787 www.vancouver.opushotel.com
PATRICIA HOTEL
1.2 KM FROM STATION 604.255.4301 www.patriciahotel.ca
PINNACLE HOTEL VANCOUVER HARBOURFRONT 3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.689.9211 www.pinnacleharbourfront hotel.com
PONDEROSA STUDIOS UBC 13.1 KM FROM STATION 604.822.1000 www.suitesatubc.com
THE RIVIERA ON ROBSON SUITES HOTEL
3.2 KM FROM STATION 604.685.1301 www.rivieravancouver.com
ROSEWOOD HOTEL GEORGIA 2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.682.5566 www.rosewoodhotels.com
SHANGRI-LA HOTEL
2.6 KM FROM STATION 604.689.1120 www.shangri-la.com
ST. CLAIR HOTEL - HOSTEL 1.8 KM FROM STATION 604.648.3713 www.stclairvancouver.com
ST. REGIS HOTEL
2.5 KM FROM STATION 604.229.4769 www.stregishotel.com
THE SYLVIA HOTEL
4.3 KM FROM STATION 604.681.9321 www.sylviahotel.com
TIMES SQUARE SUITES HOTEL 3.8 KM FROM STATION 604.210.7173 www.timessquaresuites.com
VICTORIAN HOTEL
1.7 KM FROM STATION 604.681.6369 www.victorianhotel.ca
WEDGEWOOD HOTEL & SPA 2.4 KM FROM STATION 604.689.7777 www.wedgewoodhotel.com
PLAY BAU-XI GALLERY CONTEMPORARY FINE ART 4.3 KM FROM STATION 604.733.7011 www.bau-xi.com
BEATY BIODIVERSITY MUSEUM 14.2 KM FROM STATION 604.827.4955 www.beatymuseum.ubc.ca
Tourism Vancouver
3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.684.8461 www.thelistelhotel.com
LODEN HOTEL
Grouse Mountain / Vancouver, BC
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www.ontrakmag.com
VANCOUVER, BC
BLOEDEL FLORAL CONSERVATORY
5.9 KM FROM STATION 604.257.8584 www.vancouver.ca
CAMBIE CLIMBING TREE Nelson Mouellic/Tourism Vancouver
5.1 KM FROM STATION
CAPILANO SUSPENSION BRIDGE PARK 10.7 KM FROM STATION 604.985.7474 www.capbridge.com
CRAIGDARROCH CASTLE Victoria 115 KM FROM STATION 250.592.5323 www.thecastle.ca
DEEP COVE KAYAK CENTRE 17.4 KM FROM STATION 604.929.2268 www.deepcovekayak.com
DR. SUN YAT-SEN CLASSICAL CHINESE GARDEN 1.2 KM FROM STATION 604.662.3207 www.vancouverchinese garden.com
GRANVILLE ISLAND
4.1 KM FROM STATION 604.666.6655 www.granvilleisland.com
GREATER VANCOUVER ZOO 53.3 KM FROM STATION 604.856.6825 www.gvzoo.com
GROTTO SPA AT TIGH-NA-MARA
Parksville 111 KM FROM STATION 250.248.1838 www.grottospa.com
GROUSE MOUNTAIN
14.8 KM FROM STATION 604.980.9311 www.grousemountain.com
H.R. MACMILLAN SPACE CENTRE 4.9 KM FROM STATION 604.738.7827 www.spacecentre.ca
MUSEUM OF VANCOUVER
4.8 KM FROM STATION 604.736.4431 www.museumofvancouver.ca
www.ontrakmag.com
Stanley Park / Vancouver, BC
THE ORPHEUM
2.8 KM FROM STATION 604.665.3035 www.vancouvercivic theatres.com
PEAK 2 PEAK GONDOLA Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION 1.800.944.7853 www.whistler.com
PIRATE ADVENTURES
4.1 KM FROM STATION 604.754.7535 www.pirateadventures.ca
PLAYLAND
5.4 KM FROM STATION 604.253.2311 www.pne.ca
QUEEN ELIZABETH THEATRE
ROCKWOOD ADVENTURES
VANCOUVER AQUARIUM
ROGERS ARENA
VANCOUVER MARITIME MUSEUM
7.4 KM FROM STATION 604.913.1621 www.rockwoodadventures.com 2 KM FROM STATION 604.899.7400 www.rogersarena.com
SCIENCE WORLD AT TELUS WORLD OF SCIENCE
400 METERS FROM STATION 604.443.7440 www.scienceworld.ca
THE SHAMEFUL TIKI ROOM 3.2 KM FROM STATION 604.999.5684 www.shamefultikiroom.com
SKOOKUMCHUCK NARROWS
6.3 KM FROM STATION 604.659.3474 www.vanaqua.org
4.8 KM FROM STATION 604.257.8300 www.vancouvermaritime museum.com
VANCOUVER POLICE MUSEUM 1.3 KM FROM STATION 604.665.3346 www.vancouverpolice museum.ca
VANDUSEN BOTANICAL GARDEN
6.1 KM FROM STATION 604.257.8335 www.vandusengarden.org
1.6 KM FROM STATION 604.665.3050 www.queenelizabeththeatre.org
Provincial Park 129 KM FROM STATION 604.885.3714 www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks
RICHMOND OLYMPIC OVAL
STANLEY PARK
Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION 1.800.766.0449 www.whistlerblackcomb.com
RIVER ROCK CASINO RESORT
UBC MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY
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Richmond 14 KM FROM STATION 778.296.1400 www.richmondoval.ca
Richmond 12.2 KM FROM STATION 604.247.8900 www.riverrock.com
ROBSON STREET
2.8 KM FROM STATION 604.669.8132 www.robsonstreet.ca
3.8 KM FROM STATION 604.873.7000 www.vancouver.ca
12.6 KM FROM STATION 604.822.5087 www.moa.ubc.ca
WHISTLER BLACKCOMB
VANCOUVER ART GALLERY 2.3 KM FROM STATION 604.662.4700 www.vanartgallery.bc.ca
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E X P E C TAT I
Crater Lake Lodge was not originally built to withstand the heavy snowfall at the national park. (photo: Courtesy of Oregon Historical Society)
THE HISTORIC COMFORTS OF THE PNW’S PARKS WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER
Of all the remarkable things about the Pacific Northwest—the natural wonders, the innovative people, the cutting-edge food and drink—it’s easy to start taking things for granted.
GREAT ( LODGE )
T IONS
Think for a moment of the foresight required to take in a remarkable landscape, then set about making it a space that everyone can enjoy. Then go one step further—within that national park or monument, set aside funds for an architectural feat that will serve as a place to rest after a long day of hiking for generations to come. So it is with the great lodges of Oregon and Washington, which are found in some of the region’s most beautiful places. From the Tudor pitch of a roof to locally crafted furniture, these lodges have nestled into our landscapes and become part of the scenery, but they deserve a look in their own right. Here are the stories of some of these wonderful buildings.
TIMBERLINE LODGE It’s only right to start with the most heralded of lodges—Timberline, on Mount Hood. “Whether you think of it as an art gallery masquerading as a hotel or the other way around, it’s a very special place, eminently worthy of the most thoughtful, careful stewardship,” wrote Richard
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“WHETHER YOU THINK OF IT AS AN ART GALLERY MASQUERADING AS A HOTEL OR THE OTHER WAY AROUND, IT’S A VERY SPECIAL PLACE, EMINENTLY WORTHY OF THE MOST THOUGHTFUL, CAREFUL STEWARDSHIP.” Moe, president of the National Trust for Historic Preservation, in the foreword to Sarah Baker Munro’s book, Timberline Lodge: The History, Art, and Craft of an American Icon. The lodge, built by hand during the Great Depression above 6,000 feet on Mount Hood, still plays a leading role in this thriving ski resort. There were other inns on Mount Hood before Timberline, but none that can hold a candle to its glory. The Cloud Cap Inn, built in 1889 and still in use by search and rescue volunteers on the north side of the mountain, was an “unpeeled log structure with stone fireplaces,” Munro wrote. Other inns also existed on the south side of the mountain. According to Munro, Oregon’s Works Progress Administration director in September 1935 applied for $246,893 to build a hotel on Mount Hood’s south side. Three more applications followed—for construction, road improvements and landscaping. The result: $968,636 from the WPA. It was an unlikely WPA project—these traditionally had low material costs and high labor costs. After an early design was abandoned because of high costs, the Forest Service recommended Gilbert Stanley Underwood to design Timberline Lodge, Munro wrote. The resulting, rustic design is similar to other Underwood lodges such as two in Utah and the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite National 78
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Park. Rustic, though, was not a word those supporting the development of the lodge used—they preferred “Cascadian,” according to Munro. Construction began in early 1936, though snow continued to pile up as workers tried to clear a road to the site. Groundbreaking took place in June 1936, and snow held off until December of that year, allowing workers to make headway. Interior work took place throughout the winter. A woodworking shop in Portland was opened in 1936 by the WPA to handle the Timberline Lodge furniture, according to Munro. Another shop for textiles was created at the Elks Temple. The lodge was dedicated in September 1937 by President Franklin D. Roosevelt. A lunch afterward featured, of course, Columbia River salmon and a crab leg cocktail. The lodge opened in February 1938. Look closer at the exterior, and you’ll find carved wood themes— Oregon Trail motifs, “The Year in Moons” from a 1930s Camp Fire Girls handbook, thunderbird and ram, buffalo and bear heads. The defining feature of Timberline Lodge is certainly the enormous fireplace in the center of the headhouse. It is surrounded by huge hand-hewn columns supporting the ceiling. The lodge would close during World War II, from 1942 to 1945, but reopened the following winter. Today, it looks nearly identical to
its original design. It was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1977 and today draws nearly 2 million visitors each year.
CRATER LAKE LODGE Not all lodges are created equal. Take Crater Lake Lodge, for example. “The truth is that the old Lodge, built in bursts beginning in 1909, was a dump,” wrote Christine Barnes in her book, Great Lodges of the West. The national park was established in 1902, and the mock Tudor lodge was started seven years later. www.ontrakmag.com
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Employees of the Paradise Inn gather for a group shot circa 1927. Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood is the grand dame of the Northwest lodges. Timberline employees restore textiles. Crater Lake Lodge was nearly demolished in the 1980s. (photos, clockwise from top: 2015.37.190, Washington State Historical Society, Tacoma (Wash.); Timberline Lodge; Timberline Lodge; From the Gerald W. Williams Collection, OSU Libraries Special Collections & Archives Research Center)
It looked great from the outside, but wasn’t designed for the amount of snow that covered its roof for months at a time and, as a result, the roof sagged and it was a chilly, low-rent spot. The Historic Preservation League of Oregon started pushing to save the lodge. It wasn’t fair that such a beautiful place, with what many consider the bluest lake in the world at a depth of nearly 2,000 feet, should have such a mess of a lodge on its shores. Using historical photos of the main floor, the restoration (and really, almost entire rebuild) began. The lodge reopened in May 1995, thanks to a six-year renovation that cost $15 million. Today, according to Barnes, the lodge can support 350 pounds of snow per square foot.
PARADISE INN The average annual snowfall at Crater Lake is 43 feet, and the most snowfall on record for the national park was 73 feet in the winter of 1932-33. But it was built, according to Barnes, with a light wood frame instead of heavy timbers. The roof was shingled with wood and stained green, instead of an original plan for tiles. Due to a lack of funding, builders often took shortcuts and didn’t have the right supplies or equipment for the project, according to Barnes. In fact, while the lodge was still under construction in 1913 and 1914, most of the roof collapsed. www.ontrakmag.com
When it opened in 1915, the lodge wasn’t complete. After years of struggle, the National Park Service bought the lodge in 1967, then leased it back to the previous owners for decades, even though it was called a fire hazard and was falling apart. By the 1980s, according to Barnes, the park service recommended the lodge be demolished and a new hotel be built in its place. A 1989 report suggested it was likely the great hall and guest rooms in the middle section of the building might collapse. The lodge was closed in 1989.
Mount Rainier National Park was established in 1899, the fifth national park in the country. When the park was established, private accommodations for visitors already existed. But according to Great Lodges of the West, Stephen T. Mather, then-assistant to the Interior Secretary and eventually the director of the National Park System, wanted more. After taking a group on a trip around the mountain, he and his assistant started a campaign to create the Rainier National Park Company, and the plan for an elaborate lodge in Paradise Valley began to take shape. 2020 /
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The idea was for the inn to look somewhat like the Old Faithful Inn at Yellowstone, though not quite as grand. Work took place in the summer and fall of 1916, despite roads being cut off until August 25 because of snow—some materials had to be brought in by horse trail. The Inn opened in July 1917, and cost $100,000. For the first month, according to Barnes, no one could reach the inn by road because of snow—but guests arrived nevertheless, on ski, sleigh and horseback. Over the years, pieces of the inn have changed—more beams prevent some snow damage, and in the 1920s a mezzanine was added. The inn also features distinctive furniture, built over seven seasons, by Hans Fraehnke, who also customized things like mailboxes, a piano and a grandfather clock. The result? A woodsy feel that remains today. 80
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The NPS recommended demolishing the inn in the 1960s, according to Barnes, but the public wouldn’t stand for it, and money was set aside in the late 1970s to restore the inn. Still, Barnes wrote in her book, “the tremendous lateral crush of snow and ice on the uphill side of the building has played havoc with the design.” Engineers continuously work to reinforce the facility, and other upgrades have also taken place. But because the bulk of the interior has remained the same since the 1920s, it appears untouched by time.
LAKE CRESCENT LODGE Olympic National Park was established in 1938, but the area was beloved by outdoor enthusiasts much earlier. Back in 1911, a modern road was built to give access to Lake Crescent from Port Angeles, and in 1914 a ferry service
was added, according to Barnes in her book, Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume II. In 1915, a couple bought 8 acres of lakefront property and built a small hotel and cottages along the lake, calling it Singer’s Tavern (and later, Singer’s Lake Crescent Tavern). Visitors arrived by boat, then spent their days in the outdoors before attending formal dinners in evening wear, Barnes wrote. Other resorts were all along the lake, but the lodge was the most formal and first-class of the bunch. Other than the Rosemary Inn and Lake Crescent Lodge, both of which still stand today, all resorts on the lake were torn down or burned to the ground. There was a five-hole golf course on the land, and a vegetable garden and apple and cherry trees. In 2000, according to Barnes, the National Park Service conducted a “cultural www.ontrakmag.com
FAR LEFT, FROM TOP The dining room at Lake Crescent Tavern, circa 1915. Crescent Lake Tavern was established in the early 1900s. CENTER Cars are parked in front of Lake Quinault Lodge, likely in the late 1920s. FAR RIGHT, FROM TOP The Chateau at the Oregon Caves is a different style than other lodges of its time. The chateau’s dining room features a stream running through it. (photos, from left: 2007.133.105, Washington State Historical Society, Tacoma (Wash.); 2003.140.6, Washington State Historical Society, Tacoma (Wash.); 2004.0.961, Washington State Historical Society, Tacoma (Wash.); Courtesy of Oregon Historical Society; Courtesy of Oregon Historical Society)
better accommodate lake views, the main lounge remains intact today, all the way down to the Roosevelt elk hanging over the hearth of the tiered fireplace.
LAKE QUINAULT LODGE
landscape inventory” and found the gardens—planted by original owner Julia Singer—had matured to include her roses as well as a variety of plants such as Oregon grape, Japanese maple and English holly. In 1927, the Singers sold the resort, by then almost 100 acres with nearly forty cabins. A decade later, President Roosevelt stayed overnight at the lodge before going on to Lake Quinault Lodge and other locations. The park was created the following year and included the property, which remained privately owned until 1951. The park service purchased the resort, Barnes wrote, and over time many of the older cabins and outbuildings were taken down. A row of original cottages was demolished in the mid-’80s and replaced by cabins that used the same design from the ’20s. While parts of the original lodge were renovated and moved around to www.ontrakmag.com
Down the road from Lake Crescent Lodge is another perfect lake lodge in Olympic National Forest, just outside the national park—Lake Quinault Lodge, which opened in 1926. An original hotel, Quinault Lake Hotel, was built as early as 1903. For a time, there was a floating dance pavilion and boathouse docked in front of the hotel, according to Barnes, and business was brisk until August 1924, when it burned to the ground in just thirty minutes. Only the safe and the piano were saved, Barnes wrote. When it was time to build the new lodge, attention turned to Robert C. Reamer, who had already built the Old Faithful Inn and the Canyon Hotel in Yellowstone National Park. 100,000 feet of lumber was hauled 50 miles on a gravel road to the site, and the site was cleared and construction started in June 1926. According to Barnes, construction was around the clock, “with bonfires to light the construction site.” The lodge opened just two months later, in August, fifty-three days after construction began. The hotel has a central area with wings on each side, a huge chimney in the center. The building angles toward the lake, and at the top of it all stands a weather vane adorned with Native Americans shooting a bear. Today, the design is called “Georgian Northwest,” according to Barnes.
OREGON CAVES CHATEAU Sometimes, you have to think outside the box, and the Chateau at the Oregon Caves is the exception that proves the rule. The chateau, in the Siskiyous east of Cave Junction in Southern Oregon, looks completely different from the other grand lodges of the region. Built by Gust Lium, a local builder from Grants Pass, the lodge is “a prime example of environmentally compatible, rustic architecture,” Barnes wrote. Construction began in September 1931, and the chateau opened in May 1934. Slotted into the canyon and covered in Port Orford cedar bark, it blends nicely into its surroundings. The chateau was built for $50,000. Unlike many lodges, the main entrance is on the chateau’s fourth floor. Visitors enter a single-story lobby that feels deep and dark like the caves, with the exception of a double-sided fireplace. Thirty years after it opened, though, the handsome chateau was nearly destroyed. A flood in 1964 pushed mud and debris onto the chateau, according to Barnes, and people opened doors and broke windows in an effort to let the surge pass through the building. The dining room was filled with 5 feet of gravel and rock. “Steps were ripped from the staircase, French doors torn from the hinges,” Barnes wrote. “The entire foundation had slipped.” Lium helped workers move the building back into place, then died a few months later. Much of the lower three floors had to be replaced. Today, the chateau is undergoing another set of renovations. It is closed through 2020, though the Oregon Caves National Monument remains open. 2020 /
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Picture Perfect PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOE KLINE
LOOK THROUGH AN old family photo album or peruse a historical society or museum, and you’ll find eerie tintype photography of years ago. Using a Civil War-era photographic process to make one-of-a-kind portraits of his subjects, Jason Chinchen is harking back to those olden times. The images are created by applying a light-sensitive silver emulsion to a thin piece of metal and then exposing it in a camera and developing it. Chinchen’s business, Analogue Tintypes, travels to various pop-up events around Central Oregon making tintype portraits for the public, and makes portraits in private sittings as well.
Jason Chinchen loads a 4x5 film holder containing a light-sensitive aluminum plate coated in collodion and silver nitrate while preparing to make a portrait of Arthur Tripp during a pop-up event at Velvet in Bend, Oregon. “I haven’t sat for a portrait since my (high school) senior pictures. Much different experience,� Tripp said.
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Chinchen instructs 5-year-old Astrid Petkun on the do’s and don’ts of sitting for a tintype portrait during his pop-up event at Velvet. Tintypes require a lot of light to expose properly. With the continuous light sources and lenses Chinchen uses, subjects need to sit still for an exposure lasting approximately twelve to eighteen seconds. Subjects can blink, but any other movement can result in a blurred image. FAR LEFT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Petkun is seen on the glass on the back of Chinchen’s 4x5 camera. Photographers of the past and present doing tintype photography typically use a 4x5 or another large-format camera—tintypes are a one-of-a-kind direct positive process, so no negative is created for enlargement. Large-format cameras display the actual size of the image flipped on the back, where a photographer can check focus before loading a film carrier. Chinchen positions a headrest behind Walter Petkun, 11. The headrest helps stabilize a subject for the longer exposure times necessary to create the tintype. Chinchen uses a loupe to check focus on the back of his camera.
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Chinchen talks to subject Michael McLandress as he prepares to make a portrait. Chinchen enjoys the interaction with people that accompanies his work. “It’s usually all about the sitter. I’m just there to facilitate that process,” he said.
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Chinchen removes a plate from a silver nitrate bath while working in a converted darkroom at his pop-up. He uses aluminum plates, which are first coated in a collodion solution, then placed in a silver nitrate bath for several minutes. This step makes the plate light-sensitive, so it must be loaded into a film holder and unloaded after exposure in the dark or in red darkroom lighting. The plate needs to stay wet for the entire process for it to remain light-sensitive, also referred to as wet-plate photography. This makes the process time-sensitive as well.
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ABOVE Kayla Ellsworth watches as her portrait becomes visible in the fixer. After the plate is finished in the fixer, it is rinsed and dried, and later a varnish is applied to protect the emulsion. BOTTOM, FROM LEFT After heating a finished tintype plate over a flame, Chinchen pours a varnish over it. The varnish is then heated again to set and dry on the plate. Chinchen and his daughter, Avery Chinchen, 14, look over a scanned tintype. Chinchen scans the finished tintypes and only keeps a digital copy of his work. “The originals aren’t as important to me as the people they belong to,” he said.
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EXPOSURE READER PHOTO CONTEST
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Kite flying in Seaside, Oregon. Photo by Annette Archuleta
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Springhill Cellars Winery (WVVA/AO Films) Cider pressing at Thompson’s Mills (Kristi Crawford)
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AMTRAK CASCADES STOPS
VANCOUVER, BC
Vancouver, BC
Bellingham Mount Vernon Stanwood Everett
THE MAXWELL HOTEL pg. 53
Edmonds Seattle Tukwila Tacoma Olympia/Lacey
Centralia
Kelso/Longview
Portland
Vancouver, WA Oregon City
WATERFRONT RENAISSANCE TRAIL pg. 54
Salem Albany
Eugene
NINKASI BREWING CO. pg. 40
photos, from top: The Maxwell Hotel; Visit Vancouver USA; Rob Sydor
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SEATTLE
TACOMA
OLYMPIA
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SALEM
PORTLAND
EUGENE
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AMTRAK CASCADES NEWS + NOTES
We Get It: Pets Are Family THAT’S WHY WE allow small dogs and cats onboard with you. We know leaving home isn’t fun when you are missing your best friend. There is a weight limit. Pet weight, including the carrier, is limited to 20 pounds. (Author’s note: They still won’t let me bring my horses onboard, which is annoying, but that doesn’t mean I won’t keep asking.) In all seriousness, we want to allow pets and also be sensitive to all passengers. For this reason, there are some requirements: » Pets must remain in their carriers throughout the trip.
» Pets are permitted in one Coach Car. » Passengers must keep their pet carrier on the floor in front of the aisle seat so the pet doesn’t get too hot near the heater.
» Pet carriers are not permitted on train seats.
PET RESERVATIONS, FARES AND TICKETING » Pet reservations can only be made with a
reservation agent at 1-800-USA-RAIL or at a staffed station.
» The pet fare is $25 per reservation ($50 round-trip).
» Canada does not allow pets. Sorry!
⊲⊲ There is more info you’ll want to know before you take your first trip with your pet. Please visit www.amtrakcascades.com/riders-guide and click on “PETS” to see all the details.
AT LEFT Michelle and Helmut Godfrey bask in the fresh air and sunshine on the platform at the Salem Amtrak Cascades station.
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PARTING SHOT First light in the Oregon Cascades. Photo by Mike Wilson
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enjoy relax
surf
sip
The Smart Way to Travel Cruise down the I-5 corridor on Amtrak Cascades. Unwind, enjoy the scenery, sip Northwest wines or connect to our free wi-fi along the way. Convenient daily service to 18 cities between Vancouver BC and Eugene, including Seattle and Portland.
AmtrakCascades.com
25% off 14-day advance purchase* | Children 50% off* *restrictions apply
2020
FASHION’S SECOND CHANCE WITH THE RENEWAL WORKSHOP
LIVE MUSIC
ALONG THE ROUTE
BEST PNW DESTINATIONS BY SEASON + EVENTS
2020
THE T GREA
BEST PLACES
LODGES OF THE PNW
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E US TAK U H YO WIT OF IMENTS COMPLK CASCADES AMTRA
adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades® route
