WINTER 2019
PORT TOWNSEND ON THE HALF SHELL
GABY BAYONA
DESIGNER EXTRAORDINAIRE
INTERNATIONAL FARE IN THE PDX SUBURBS
WINTER 2019
Foodie TOP
THE FOODIE ISSUE
DESTINATIONS
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS
BEST FESTIVALS WHERE TO LEARN
TAKE U WITH S YOU
Comp Amtra liments of k Cas cades ® Ontrakmag.com
PICTURED HERE: Le Pigeon’s seared Idaho trout
adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak CascadesR route
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Features
Mussels and alliums from Holdfast Dining in Portland.
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Foodie Destinations We’ve scoured Oregon, Washington and Vancouver, BC, for the best spots to get your food coma going. written by OnTrak Magazine staff
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52
Preserving the Past
Fishing the Columbia
The complicated legacy of Hanford lives on thanks to a national park and other history initiatives.
Join Leaf Geraghty on a Columbia River fishing trip on his boat, the Bar Tender.
written by Sheila G. Miller
photography by Justin Bailie
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Emily Stocks
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Make an
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Gonzaga’s Two-Year Executive J.D. Program: - Two-year completion track for driven professionals - Hybrid, online and in-residence coursework available - Collaborative opportunities with: + Center for Civil and Human Rights + Gonzaga School of Business Administration + Gonzaga School of Leadership Studies
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Departments WINTER 2019
INTRO 6
Letter
8
Contributors
Weekender: Dining in Portland’s SW Suburbs pg. 32
10 Digital
BUSINESS 12 Green Biz
Carly Diaz
WISErg seeks to solve the food waste problem by transforming expired food into high-quality organic fertilizer.
14 Q&A
Gaby Bayona started creating her Vancouver bridal gown empire when she was just 20 years old.
CULTURE 16 Art
Megan Marie Myers’ colorful art is whimsical, smart and downright delightful.
18 Music
Mother Mother’s seventh album finds plenty of ways to describe pain.
20 Chef Spotlight
Reimagine resort cuisine with Solomon’s Nick Thompson and his ever-changing menu.
22 Event Calendar
Plan your travel around our calendar of music, art, theater, film, sports and festivals.
Syun Izakaya in Hillsboro serves up delicious Japanese food.
OUTDOORS 26 Athlete
Oregon Ballet Theatre’s Xuan Cheng keeps raising the bar as principal dancer.
28 Notes from the Adventure A motorcycle trip across the Oregon less-traveled.
32 Dining in Portland’s SW Suburbs
The southwest suburbs of Portland are a melting pot of the best food from around the world.
36 Port Townsend
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Where to eat, drink, stay, play and shop
58 Oregon 61 Washington 64 Vancouver 68 Route Maps 71 Amtrak Cascades News & Notes 72 Parting Shot
This Victorian seaport town has a booming art scene, outstanding dining options and plenty of great spots to lay your head.
67 Exposure
Submit a photo for a chance to win the photo contest.
4
EXPLORE GUIDE
ON THE COVER: Seared Idaho trout from Portland’s Le Pigeon (see pg. 40). PHOTO BY CARLY DIAZ
www.ontrakmag.com
A Note from Us The future of ultra-high-speed travel IMAGINE TRAVELING between Portland, Seattle and Vancouver, British Columbia in less than two hours. Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Microsoft all contributed funding to study this concept. The study looks at a transportation system that could travel at speeds of up to 250 mph, with a dozen daily roundtrips between the three cities and connections to existing train and transit systems. The idea is to improve interconnectivity in the Pacific Northwest and foster economic growth of a Cascadia megaregion. Faster travel could create an international hub for innovative partnerships, significant job creation and enhanced entertainment activities. We are looking at how this ultra-high-speed system might benefit the entire Cascadia megaregion, not just people at station stops. It could reduce traffic and transit congestion while encouraging greater regional collaboration in research, economic development and business innovation. Ultra-high-speed ground transportation is not intended to replace the Amtrak Cascades intercity passenger rail system. Instead, it would be
an additional travel option to serve passengers throughout the Pacific Northwest. Amtrak Cascades trains are expected to continue to connect smaller cities to the ultra-high-speed system and they might even share the same new tracks along a brand new corridor. Over the next several months, the study will look at possible routes, station stops, ridership and revenue projections, construction costs, governance structures and funding options. This business case analysis is looking at whether such a system makes sense from a variety of perspectives. The legislative bodies of the states and province will determine the next steps they plan to take. An advisory group representing the public, private and nonprofit sectors from Washington, Oregon and British Columbia is providing information and feedback to the study. We also value input from the public and are seeking your participation in an online survey. If you’d like to learn more about the study and share your ideas, please visit WSDOT’s webpage at www.bit.ly/ultra-high-speed-study.
Janet Matkin
Communications Manager WSDOT Rail, Freight and Ports Division
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Contributors WINTER 2019
Juliet Grable
Writer—Notes From the Adventure (pg. 28)
I live in Oregon’s Jackson County, where you can head out on a motorcycle in any direction and find yourself on a stunning scenic ride. Traversing the state from corner to corner exposed me to new and stunning landscapes and expanded my notion of what makes Oregon special. One of the things I enjoyed the most was the camaraderie among fellow riders, even if it was just exchanging a wave as we passed each other.
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Justin Bailie
Mackenzie Wilson
Astoria, Oregon, is one of my favorite places to photograph. It’s a beautiful town with so much history, and most of it came to be because of the Columbia River and salmon. Since I grew up in the area, the guide and I knew many of the same people and had a great time talking about our home. And even though we didn’t catch a lot of fish, the weather was about as good as it gets.
Ballerinas are notorious perfectionists, training their bodies to move in ways most of us can’t fathom. In my interview with Xuan Cheng, a principal dancer with the Oregon Ballet Theatre, her physical and mental strength captured my attention. The 33-yearold taught me the work that happens before the curtain is pulled can be just as beautiful as the performance, if you’re grateful just for the opportunity to be on stage.
Photographer—Gallery (pg. 52)
Writer—Athlete (pg. 26)
Carly Diaz
Photographer—Weekender: Dining in Portland’s SW Suburbs (pg. 32)
I visited restaurants with a variety of international cuisines while photographing the SW PDX Weekender. When I walked into Gloria’s Secret Cafe, I was greeted by the most amazing smells and then Gloria herself. She prepared an array of Salvadoran dishes, showed me the ingredients she bought each week at the farmers market, and then led me around the restaurant showing me the photos on the wall and sharing stories of how she came to live in Portland.
www.ontrakmag.com
adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades® route
Editor - Kevin Max Managing Editor - Sheila G. Miller Creative - Allison Bye Marketing + Digital Manager - Kelly Rogers Web Manager - Aaron Opsahl Office Manager - Cindy Miskowiec Director of Sales - Jenny Kamprath Advertising Account Executives Cindy Guthrie, Jennifer McCammon, Jenn Redd Contributing Writers - Tracy Ellen Beard, Juliet Grable, Michelle Hopkins, Ben Salmon, Chad Walsh, Mackenzie Wilson Contributing Photographers - Justin Bailie, Carly Diaz, Emily Green
www.statehoodmedia.com
www.facebook.com/AmtrakCascades @Amtrak_Cascades www.facebook.com/OnTrakMag @OnTrakMag PUBLISHED BY Statehood Media, LLC 70 SW Century Drive, Suite 100-218 Bend, Oregon 97702 541•728•2764 Printed in Canada All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. Articles and photographs appearing in OnTrak may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher. OnTrak and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsolicited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these articles are not necessarily those of Statehood Media, OnTrak, or its employees, staff or management.
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Digital Experience WINTER 2019
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EXPOSURE PHOTO CONTEST
What Does Your PNW Look Like?
Megan Marie Myers’ art transports you to the best campout you can imagine. See more of her work at www.meganmariemyers.com.
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360.671.3990 bellingham.org
Business 12. Green Biz | 14. Q&A
The Leftovers
WISErg seeks to eliminate food waste WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER
TAKE A GROUP of high-tech software experts, add a few scientists and an interest in eliminating food waste. What do you get? WISErg, a company that is taking grocery stores’ leftover food and converting it into high-quality organic fertilizer. It started with an idea to measure food waste in local grocery stores. Brian Valentine, WISErg’s CEO and a former Microsoft and Amazon executive, tells it like this: In 2009, Jose Lugo and Larry LaSueur approached Valentine with an idea. The three had all worked at Microsoft together (“We’re software people,” Valentine said) and LaSueur and Lugo had an idea to collect data on food waste. “Can we collect data on what is being thrown away behind grocery stores that we can give back to the grocery store manager?” Valentine asked. “Then that will help them to manage their inventory better. That was the original concept.” “Like most startups, if anybody tells you they had a clue where the idea would take them, they’re lying to you,” Valentine said, laughing. The company has grown from there. WISErg has found a value stream in food waste, and Valentine believes there are other businesses to develop from that. “We definitely want to continue to expand,” he said. “There’s so much of this waste out there. The more we can upcycle, as opposed to recycle or throw away, it’s just better.” To actually measure the food coming out of the back of the store, the company developed the Harvester, a self-contained unit that takes a large volume of food scraps otherwise headed for the landfill and turns those scraps, including hard stuff like bones, into a liquid that is used for fertilizer. Three generations of the machine later, the Harvester is in fifteen locations around Seattle—at the back of some Whole Foods, PCC Markets and Costcos around the region. During the design process, a professor at the University of 12
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Arizona asked the obvious question: “What do we do with what comes out of the back of the machine?” It seemed a shame to let such high-nutrient material go to waste. At first, the company considered turning the processed food waste into some sort of bio-gas. “That went on for a couple years and didn’t really pan out,” Valentine said. Eventually, someone suggested the food waste be converted into liquid, organic fertilizer. “All of the material in the food waste is super high nutrient,” Valentine said. “We had to figure out how to capture the nutrients, not let it get away.” When food sits in a curbside dumpster in the sun, it rots and those nutrients disappear. Most of the food that’s thrown away at grocery stores is taken off the shelves because it’s at or past its sell-by date, not because it has gone bad. The Harvester captures the food while it’s still fresh and full of nutrients. Because it’s self-contained, there are no odors, no pests, and no leaks into storm drains. The company created a biological process that stabilizes the food inside the Harvester to prevent the nutrients from disappearing. Finally, the company developed a process to turn the stabilized food waste into a liquid that can be turned into fertilizer that is 100 percent certified organic. Those fifteen stores produce enough food waste to create 5 million gallons of fertilizer each year. “The problem isn’t acquiring the material,” Valentine said. “There are 4,000 grocery stores on the West Coast. The challenge as a company is getting the product accepted in the market.” Today, the company has a plant in Redmond, Washington, that converts 4 million gallons of liquid fertilizer a year. The company is selling fertilizer in Central and South America, the U.S. and Mexico. “We just started shipping product to Costa Rica and Chile,” he said. www.ontrakmag.com
year of the pig
chinese Just steps from Union Station in Portland’s Old Town Chinatown Neighborhood!
new year at lan su chinese garden
February 5 - 19, 2019
Chinese new year events include
• Lion Dances every weekend • Lantern Displays • Children’s Performances • Feng Shui Talks
• Kid’s Activities • Martial Arts Demonstrations • Plants Talks and more!
www.lansugarden.org/chinesenewyear
239 NW Everett Street Portland, Oregon 97209 tel 503.228.8131
year of the
pig
A SIT DOWN Q A
Love at First Sight Young Vancouver designer makes wedding dress dreams come true INTERVIEW BY MICHELLE HOPKINS
RAISED IN VANCOUVER by her seamstress mother, Gaby Bayona’s childhood was lined with lace, chiffon and sequins. By age 20, Bayona had launched her own bridal line, Truvelle, on the online marketplace Etsy. Five years later, the designer’s bridal gowns are sold to more than twenty-three retailers in the U.S., six in Canada, and in Europe, South Africa and Australia. In 2017, Bayona followed up on her phenomenal success by launching another bridal line, Laudae, with her mother, Merly Bayona.
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Laurie K. Jensen Photography
What is the most challenging part of designing wedding dresses? Staying in our price range—we retail between $2,000 and $2,750—can be a challenge. Since we manufacture locally and source some of our fabrics from expensive markets like Spain and France, we need to be crafty on ways to simplify a design or ways to use only a little bit of an amazing but pricey fabric. What have been the biggest milestones in your bridal design career so far? It’s a toss-up between hiring the very first person for the team (we’re now at twenty-five) and moving the business out of my apartment and into our 10,000-square-foot studio space. Strictly speaking on design accomplishments, I’d say winning Western Living’s Designer of the Year in 2016 was big.
Laurie K. Jensen Photography
Brian Van Wyk Photography
What drew you to bridalwear, and what is your favorite thing about designing wedding dresses? My mom became a bridal seamstress shortly after moving to Canada. Growing up, I would help her with her work. When I finished high school, I started getting more into it, and it just came so naturally. One of the best parts of designing gowns is that it’s one of the few things in fashion that becomes an heirloom that’s passed down from generation to generation.
For each collection, where do you get most of your inspiration from? A ton of inspiration comes from sourcing fabrics—sometimes when you see a fabric, you just know. There’s also a ton of inspiration that roots from retailer feedback, my travels and our brides. CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT A wedding dress from the Laudae Quaintrelle’s 2019 collection. Gaby Bayona started her line at 20. Sewing in the garment studio.
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Culture
16. Artist | 18. Musician 20. Chef Spotlight | 22. Events
Artist
Creature Comforts
Megan Marie Myers rides the line between fine art and illustration, to delightful results WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMILY GREEN
AMONG THE FIRST WORDS that come to mind when you see one of Megan Marie Myers’ paintings is “charming.” Meet her in person, and the same word will be on your lips. Myers’ paintings, filled with whimsical animals, children and landscapes straight out of the Oregon wilderness, lull you with their muted color schemes and dreamy vibes. There are animals in the clouds and the smoke, tiny cabins and knapsacks and pup tents. Looking at her art is seeing what you hoped your last camping trip would have been. Myers, 35, grew up in Medford, Oregon. She remembers her school days being filled with art—every subject seemed to incorporate art in some way. “I was really encouraged to be artistic from the get go,” she said. “Plus, I was an only child and my parents were busy, so it was sort of self-entertainment.” 16
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At Seattle University, Myers majored in studio art with a concentration in painting. After graduating, she began a career in arts administration, knowing she wanted to be involved with art but taking to heart the advice countless artists have heard—doing it full time just isn’t realistic. For three years, Myers ran the public art programs for small municipalities near Seattle. Then she took a job as the project manager for Dale Chihuly, the celebrated glass artist, first handling public and private commissions and then gallery installations all over the world. “It was an intense experience, but I also learned so much,” she said. “So much of what I did then applies to what I do now. And it definitely gave me an insider’s eye into the art world.” “This is a huge operation,” she said. “Dale would do the designs, but then there were teams of glassblowers to make www.ontrakmag.com
it a reality. There were thousands of pieces of glass for each piece. They would build these steel armatures and then attach each piece of glass to them.” If the piece was a commission, it would be put together for a client visit, then taken apart piece by piece and sent to, say, China or Kuwait. A team would travel there to reassemble and install the piece. “It was all-consuming,” Myers said. “It was my whole life for five years.” “I thought it would satiate the natural space in my heart that I had for art,” she continued. “But I kept thinking, ‘What if I put all this energy into my creative spark?’” She had no free time for painting. So Myers took a job at Trader Joe’s, with the idea that it would give her more time for her art. Instead, the art came to her—she became the lead signmaker at the Trader Joe’s in the Hollywood district of Portland. “It gave me the mental space and the schedule to work on my painting,” she said. “I could go there and practice and get better, and then I could go home and create.” Eventually, Myers relocated to Bend and decided to give it a go as a full-time artist. “It’s just my whole life. But it’s different because it’s something I care about,” she said. “It‘s my baby.” Myers’ style is distinctive—at first glance, the playfulness looks ready-made for a child’s room. But a second look reveals more to her pieces, which straddle a line between illustrations and fine art. Myers said she began drawing her human figures as a child, and she believes she was inspired by the Hanna-Barbera cartoons of her youth. Her trees, in particular, appear inspired by the forests of the Jellystone. “As a kid I was always engrossed in cartoons, but I wasn’t necessarily following the story so much as studying the way things were drawn,” she said. “I had this one image of Dino from ‘The Flintstones’ that I would just draw over and over.” Myers was also taken with The Little Prince, a French book about the importance of getting rid of life’s complexities and focusing on the things that matter, like love and friendship. And she points to Calvin & Hobbes, a comic strip written by Bill Watterson, as another inspiration, the magical world created in that strip—what was real? What was imagined?— as well as the poignant messages hidden among the lighthearted banter of a boy and his stuffed tiger. “The goal is to strip away the complexities and the things that get in the way,” she said. “What are the important takeaways? I try to present them again so you take another look at something and help you see it as universal, see it as your own experience.” Myers’ studio is a small shed across the yard from her home in Bend. “This is not a Pinterest art studio,” she warned, laughing. And indeed, it is bare bones—but there’s a charm to that, too. She hasn’t improved upon the subfloorwww.ontrakmag.com
FROM TOP Myers’ paintings regularly feature Oregon locations. Her works often use descriptive titles like this one: “They break trail and find splendor in every moment. They soak in it, never shading their eyes from the radiance of the world.”
ing because, well, painting is a messy job. She recently spilled an entire can of white paint on the floor. The shed now has windows, lights, drywall, even a heater for the wintertime. But there’s plenty of shelving, cans full of paintbrushes, and inspiration everywhere. She has a large plywood easel she built that allows her to work on a large painting. In addition to prints and original artwork, Myers also sells postcards, calendars and other paper goods. She recently did a collaboration with Bend-based Free Range Equipment, which screened her paintings onto backpacks for its Canvas Series. She’s illustrated a board game and is hoping to do more murals. Myers fields these collaborations, like a recent one to work on an animated storybook, with one thing in mind—is it in line with what she wants to do? “If it’s not in my heart what I stand for, it’s probably not going to be one of my projects,” she said. “It’s about staying on track.” WINTER 2019 |
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Musician
CENTER STAGE & UP 'N' COMING
Alt-pop band Mother Mother is in touch with the pain WRITTEN BY BEN SALMON
Album Review Mother Mother built its career—the awards, the chart hits, the growing audience—on the backs of skyscraping pop-rock songs that placed a great shout-along hook ahead of all else. On Dance And Cry, hooks still abound, but now they feel as if they serve the feelings behind Ryan Guldemond’s songs. This synergy of melody and substance is best illustrated at the end of “So Down,” a song about breaking through pain to start again. Here, the song’s main hook repeats in the background as Guldemond screams “I’M TRYING!” over and over again, his voice ragged with anguish. At one point, it sounds like he stops performing, and instead is simply trying to spit a longstanding demon out for good. It’s a remarkable moment on an album full of them.
Train Tracks
| All available on Spotify
“Get Up” from Dance And Cry
This snappy empowerment anthem from Mother Mother’s new album should soundtrack an Olympics highlight reel.
“The Drugs” from No Culture
The chorus of this big Canadian hit is massive and plainly spoken: You’re better than drugs. You’re deadly like drugs.
“Ghosting” from O My Heart
A low-key and labyrinthine pop song from the band’s fan-favorite sophomore album, released a decade ago.
“Only Love” from Dance And Cry
The overwhelming, world-changing power of love (and loss) fuels this beautiful ballad on Mother Mother’s new album.
“The Stand” from Eureka
The call-and-response style of the band’s first major chart success showcases Ryan Guldemond’s songwriting range.
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James O’Mara
Feel What You Feel
ON DANCE AND CRY, the seventh full-length album from Vancouver, BC, alt-pop band Mother Mother, frontman and songwriter Ryan Guldemond finds a bunch of evocative ways to describe his pain—it’s like an earthquake, a pirouette, a battering ram. It’s a house to be lived in, a feeling to get lost in. “I believe in the pain, man,” he sings at one point. “I believe it’s the way to find peace again.” Even for a band that has worn its heart on its collective sleeve for a dozen years, this is vividScan to listen ly vulnerable territory for Mother Mother and on Spotify Guldemond. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it can be traced to a breakup, the kind that leaves you “soft and humble and open and raw,” he said. “There’s little room for irony in that state, so what tends to come out is pure and true. You can’t escape yourself in that state. You have no tricks,” Guldemond said. “You have to feel what you feel, and if you don’t like what you feel and want out, then guess what? You have to feel it even more. So I did, and I wrote songs.” Those songs shift away from the anthemic synth-rock of Mother Mother’s more recent albums (like 2017’s No Culture) in favor of an earthier, more earnest but no less catchy— sound. Dance And Cry has its share of booming beats, big hooks and buzzsaw guitars, but they’re underpinned by the kind of sorrow and self-doubt that make an arena-ready jam feel intensely personal. Writing simply and vulnerably has been “refreshing,” Guldemond said. “I like big words and clever phonetics, but I’m less drawn to using those devices right now,” he said. “I just want to connect via simplicity, and not at the expense of depth or profundity, but rather in service of it. That’s actually the greatest challenge, to say a big thing small.” www.ontrakmag.com
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Chef Spotlight
Reimagining Resort Cuisine
Nick Thompson moves the goal posts at Tetherow WHEN I FIRST met him, Solomon’s executive chef and Chicago native Nick Thompson was in the kitchen, behind the line, slicing pickled shiitake mushrooms for a weekend starter special composed of gogujang-rubbed Korean short ribs that had been cooked, sous vide, for two days and would rest atop a bed of kombucha-squash purée topped with frisée, pickled cucumbers, crispy black forbidden rice puffs and those same pickled mushrooms. On paper, the dish sounds like the kind of starter dreamed up in some kitchen in Portland or Chicago or San Francisco, rather than the Bend-based Tetherow golf resort restaurant where it would soon make its debut. Kitchens in establishments like resorts and athletic clubs can often try the patience of chefs looking to spread their wings, because cooking for a large clientele means making food that will appeal to everyone. In other words, risk-taking is generally verboten and the flavor of the day is some version of vanilla. But Thompson said he and his sous chef, Matt Matheny, were plucked from the kitchen at one of Bend’s popular eateries, Bos Taurus, to do the opposite—they have been charged with jazzing up Solomon’s menu. And that means completely revising the menu every four months with whatever ingredients and techniques they come across. “You can only cook the same thing over and over again until your cooks get bored or you get bored and then you get
John Valls
WRITTEN BY CHAD WALSH
Nick Thompson in the kitchen at Solomon’s.
complacent,” Thompson said. “If your menu’s always changing, you’re always growing, your restaurant is always growing, then your team’s always growing and the sky’s the limit.” Thompson, who’s done time in Portland kitchens like Ya Hala, Picnic House and Tasty n Alder, said he wants his kitchen to operate as a partnership with Matheny, a Houston native who’s persuading him that maybe everything does, in fact, taste better when you add buttermilk. And in a way, he has no choice, as the kitchen is a slim two-person operation. But between the two of them, Thompson said Tetherow members, curious Bendites and travelers from around the region can expect dishes with ingredients like pickled grapes, squid ink, noble vinegars, sea urchin and juniper-cured elk. Recently, Thompson and Matheny put those aforementioned Korean short ribs on the “permanent” menu. But you’ll need to act fast to get a taste, because the dish will be gone—though certainly not forgotten—come spring, replaced by whatever else the two young kitcheneers come up with next.
“You can only cook the same thing over and over again until your cooks get bored or you get bored and then you get complacent. If your menu’s always changing, you’re always growing, your restaurant is always growing, then your team’s always growing and the sky’s the limit.” — Nick Thompson 20
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Meet Friendly. You’ll find kind greetings and easy conversation around every corner and at every stop. That’s the Tualatin Valley experience – locals who love to meet visitors and talk about their passions. Travel along our Vineyard and Valley Scenic Tour Route, where you’ll find great conversations about Oregon pioneers, organic produce, berry farming, and, of course, winemaking. Whatever your interest, you’ll find a warm welcome and friendly faces, just minutes away from Portland.
+1 800 537 3149 | tualatinvalley.org Our friendly towns are the perfect home base for your scenic getaway.
Aloha | Banks | Beaverton | Cornelius | Durham | Forest Grove | Gaston | Helvetia | Hillsboro King City | North Plains | Scholls | Sherwood | Tigard | Tualatin | Wilsonville
WCVA_OnTrak_Full_Pg_Ad_Winter_2019.indd 1
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Oregon
EVENTS CALENDAR Portland
David Barajas
BARLEY, BARRELS, BOTTLES & BREWS: 200 YEARS OF OREGON BEER Oregon Historical Society Museum Through June 9 $5 www.ohs.org This exhibition looks at the history of beer in Oregon, as well as the key people who have made the state so important in the brewing world. Learn about beer’s role all the way back to Lewis & Clark.
The Joriad North American Truffle Dog Championship Lane Events Center Large Animal Arena January 24 $20
www.oregontrufflefestival.org
Watch the world’s most talented truffle dogs compete. The first round is open to spectators, who can watch dogs seek out truffle-scented prizes, then the finalists go out in the field. Tickets are $15 ahead of time or $20 at the door. Eugene
OREGON ASIAN CELEBRATION Lane Events Center February 16-17 $6 www.asiancelebration.org Celebrate all things Asian with two full days of performances, food and arts and crafts from a variety of cultures, including Chinese, Japanese, Korean and more. Vendors, a food court and a heritage exhibit featuring Asian-American immigration stories round out the two-day event. 6TH ANNUAL EUGENE SALSA FESTIVAL Hilton Eugene February 22-24 $20-75 www.eugenesalsafestival.com This weekend of live music, workshops and performances includes master instructors and musicians and performers from all over Latin America. Workshops take place during the day, then music and performances, as well as open dancing, take place in the evenings.
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Albany
MID-WINTER FESTIVAL Linn County Expo Center January 25-27 Free to $60 www.midwinterfestival.com This Albany tradition brings dancers from all over the West to show off their skills in square, round and clog dancing. Callers from around the country will be on hand, and dance demonstrations will take place for those who aren’t ready to compete.
Salem
SALEM ART WALK Prisms Gallery January 25 Free www.salemartwalk.com This progressive art event takes place on the final Friday of each month. Check out open studios, pop-up galleries, and diverse art at this free, family-friendly event that runs from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m.
OREGON WEDDING SHOWCASE Oregon State Fairgrounds January 26-27 Free www.oregonwedding showcase.com If you’re a bride-to-be, this is a must-see, with vendors from around the state converging in Salem for fashion shows, giveaways and an inspiration gallery filled with cool wedding ideas. OREGON’S 160TH BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION Oregon Capitol February 16 Free www.oregoncapitol.com Learn about Oregon’s history and celebrate this great state’s 160th birthday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Birthday cake and kids activities will be on hand, as well as costumed interpreters, covered wagons, blacksmithing and native cultures.
FERTILE GROUND FESTIVAL Various locations January 24-February 3 $50 for a pass www.fertilegroundpdx.org This eleven-day festival takes place all over the city and focuses on new art, including readings, dance, comedy and other events. All performers and artists are local and the festival is a collaboration of a variety of theaters and other arts groups.
PORTLAND INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Various locations March 7-21 $300 for a pass www.nwfilm.org More than 35,000 people check out the Portland International Film Festival every year. More than 140 international shorts and features premiere to Portland audiences each year. If you love film, this is a chance to dig deep. SHAMROCK RUN Waterfront Park March 17 $39-79 www.motivrunning.com Throw on your green and get ready for a run along the Portland waterfront. The Shamrock Run has been an iconic part of Portland since 1979 and features a 5K, 8K, 15K, half marathon, or a 4-mile Shamrock Stride. For the kids, try the 1K leprechaun lap.
PORTLAND SEAFOOD & WINE FESTIVAL Oregon Convention Center February 1-2 $15 www.pdxseafoodandwine festival.com With more than sixty-five wineries among the 175 exhibitors, this is a great spot for a rainy Portland afternoon. Visitors can try a variety of Oregon seafood, including Dungeness crab, and wash it down with beer, wine, cider and distilled spirits. Bring the family and keep the kids busy with face painters and balloon artists. PORTLAND WINTER LIGHT FESTIVAL Various locations February 7-9 Free www.pdxwlf.com For three nights, illuminated art installations, performances and kinetic fire sculptures light up Portland at this citywide event. In 2018 there were more than 100 artists and groups from all over the area. Grab a hat and scarf, then head out to this family-friendly, free event that is open to all. CHINESE NEW YEAR 2019 Lan Su Chinese Garden February 5-19 $10 www.lansugarden.org Celebrate the Year of the Pig at Lan Su Chinese Garden. Learn more about the new year with a two-week celebration that features lion dances and other cultural performances. A community parade and lantern viewing evenings will also be on the docket.
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Washington EVENTS CALENDAR
Northwest Flower & Garden Festival
Tacoma
Northwest Flower & Garden Festival Washington State Convention Center February 20-24 $24
www.gardenshow.com
Check out the region’s top garden show with this year’s theme, Gardens of the World. More than twenty fully landscaped display gardens, as well as seminars and marketplaces make this a top spot to make plans for your garden. Vancouver
LANTERN TOUR: AN EVENING AT THE FORT Fort Vancouver National Historic Site January 26, February 16, March 23 $25 for adults, $10 for kids under 15 www.nps.gov/fova Check out Fort Vancouver’s historical sites at night with a candle lantern. The tours start at 7 p.m. and groups tour with park rangers through a variety of the fort’s reconstructed buildings, filled with historical vignettes with costumed living history interpreters. Recommend only for kids 10 and older. WASHINGTON STATE HORSE EXPO Clark County Event Center at the Fairgrounds March 1-3 $11 www.washingtonstatehorse expo.com This is the largest show of its kind in the Pacific Northwest, with exhibits, shows, vendor booths and more. Learn more about your horses from the best equine experts around.
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Kelso/Longview
SQUATCH FEST 2019 Cowlitz County Convention Center January 26 $25 for adults, $5 for kids 15 and under www.kelsolongviewchamber.org For all things Sasquatch, don’t miss sQuatch Fest 2019. From 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., speakers will discuss Bigfoot. There will also be a beer festival, food and craft vendors, even a concert.
Olympia
STORYOLY Rhythm & Rye January 15, February 19, March 19 $5-10 suggested donation www.storyoly.com This monthly Story Slam event invites community members to share true stories based on a monthly theme. The competition, held on the third Tuesday of every month, begins at 6 p.m. and ends at 8 p.m.
GOLDEN DRAGON ACROBATS The Washington Center for the Performing Arts February 7 $25-47 www.washingtoncenter.org These acrobats perform more than 200 performances every year. The group combines acrobatics with beautiful costumes, traditional dance forms and current music to create a show unlike any other. SEVEN THINGS I’VE LEARNED: AN EVENING WITH IRA GLASS The Washington Center for the Performing Arts March 24 $20 www.washingtoncenter.org Ira Glass, the creator, producer and host of award-winning This American Life, visits Olympia for a talk about his career and life in radio.
MONSTER JAM Tacoma Dome January 11-13 $15-50 www.monsterjam.com It’s just what it sounds like— giant trucks racing, jumping, smashing into things. The Triple Threat Series West includes drivers with names like Grave Digger, Megaladon and Monster Mutt. TACOMA HOME & GARDEN SHOW Tacoma Dome January 24-27 $12 www.tacomahomeandgarden show.com Get tips on all things home and garden at this four-day event. Thousands of exhibitors will be on hand, and you can check out show gardens from professional landscape artists, as well as seminars, a vintage market and an artist row with artists selling one-of-a-kind pieces.
THAT MAGNIFICENT MOZART! Everett Presbyterian Church February 10 $25 www.everettphil.org The Everett Philharmonic performs a tribute to Mozart each year, and this year will feature Ryan Bede, a baritone who performs with the Seattle Opera. The first half of this all-Mozart event will have four of the composer’s most popular stage works, and the second half will focus on Symphony $29 in A Major.
Bellingham
LEGALLY BLONDE: THE MUSICAL Mount Baker Theatre March 24 $49.50-79.50 www.mountbakertheatre.com Get ready to sing along to Elle Woods’ journey from sorority to law firm in the Broadway hit musical version of Legally Blonde. Get your bend-and-snap ready.
Seattle
CHILDREN’S FILM FESTIVAL SEATTLE Northwest Film Forum January 24-February 9 $7-12 www.childrensfilmfestival seattle.org Get in touch with your inner child by attending the Children’s Film Festival Seattle, the largest on the West Coast with international films from dozens of countries. More than 10,000 people attend screenings. VENICE IS SINKING MASQUERADE BALL 2019 Seattle Design Center February 9 $115-239 www.seattledesigncenter.com With circus acts, musicians, dancers and a costume contest, this annual event is sumptuous in all the right ways. Grab a treat from Marie Antoinette’s Dessert Room and try your hand at some faux gambling.
Everett
XTREME INTERNATIONAL ICE RACING Angel of the Winds Arena February 16 $15-30 www.angelsofthewindarena.com Picture motorcycles and ATVs racing on a thick oval ice track. Professional riders from all over North America, England and Scotland will be on hand to compete for national championship titles.
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Vancouver, BC EVENTS CALENDAR
Scott Brammer Photography
VANCOUVER CANUCKS V. CALGARY FLAMES Rogers Arena February 9 C$75-305 www.nhl.com/canucks The Canucks take on their rivals, the Calgary Flames. This is old-school Canada hockey to the core—hockey is Canada’s game and the Canucks are at the center of it.
Dine Out Vancouver Festival Locations throughout the city January 18-February 3 Prices vary
www.dineoutvancouver.com
Get ready for seventeen days of delicious food around one of the world’s most diverse cities. Take a guided dining adventure, a cocktail class, a food tour or enjoy a guest-chef collaboration dinner. WEATHERED BEER CELEBRATION Heritage Hall January 12 C$100 www.weatheredbeer.com This curated beer and art event showcases top beers, including stouts, barleywine, “extreme hops” and sours. There are two four-hour sessions available for this event, which will offer a wide variety of brewers at four bars, as well as an art gallery. VANCOUVER SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA: THE HOCKEY SWEATER Orpheum Theatre January 13 C$19.50-30 www.vancouversymphony.ca This kids concert is based on the famous Canadian short story by Roch Carrier about a child growing up in Quebec who receives a Toronto Maple Leafs jersey and learns some valuable lessons about friendship and strength. Before the show, kids can test out the instruments.
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BROADWAY ACROSS CANADA PRESENTS THE ILLUSIONISTS Queen Elizabeth Theatre January 15-20 C$50-153 www.vancouver.broadway.com The world’s best-selling magic show stops in Vancouver with five illusionists ready to knock your socks off. Expect a fast-paced show filled with sophisticated magic tricks. NOODLE MANIA VANCOUVER #6 Various locations January 16 C$29-60 www.vancouverfoodster.com Swing through the city tasting bowls and plates for the sixth annual Noodle Mania Vancouver. Foodies can meet the chefs, learn about the restaurants, and try noodle dishes as diverse and macaroni and cheese and ramen. Chinese, Filipino, Vietnamese, Italian and other ethnic eateries will participate.
VANCOUVER ACRO FEST St Mary’s Ukrainian Catholic Centre February 1-3 C$90-270 www.vancouveracrofest.com If you believe you can fly, head to Vancouver’s Acro Fest to learn how. With a variety of teachers, the festival will teach attendees of all skill levels standing acrobatics, handstands, Icarian games and more. CANNERY FARMERS MARKET Gulf of Georgia Cannery National Historic Site February 3 & 17, March 3, 17 & 31 Free www.gulfofgeorgiacannery.org This national historic site holds winter markets every other Sunday, with locally made products and plenty of events and entertainment each time. Community organizations host in-market events like food skills workshops.
BERNADETTE PETERS Orpheum Theatre March 9 C$35-159 www.vancouversymphony.ca The inimitable voice and presence of Bernadette Peters, an award-winning actress and Broadway star, will be on hand singing with the Vancouver Symphony. Expect classic Broadway hits on steroids.
THE WIZARD’S BRUNCH & DINNER Vancouver Convention Centre February 9 C$20-215 www.thewizardsbrunch.com This immersive dining experience invites guests to dress up in their wizarding clothes, learn to make potions and cast spells, and eat delicious food fit for a wizard. JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE: THE MAN OF THE WOODS TOUR Rogers Arena February 14-15 C$66-433 www.rogersarena.com America’s heartthrob is headed to the Great North for some Valentine’s Day shows. Justin Timberlake performed the 2018 Superbowl halftime show, and his last world tour was in 2013 and 2014. A BOWIE CELEBRATION Commodore Ballroom February 16 C$68-225 www.commodoreballroom.com This show, featuring alumni of David Bowie’s bands throughout the years, is part of a thirty-two city North American winter tour. The group will perform a mix of hits and Bowie deep cuts. TALKING STICK FESTIVAL Locations throughout the city February 19-March 3 Prices vary www.fullcircle.ca This two-week indigenous arts festival is held annually around Vancouver to showcase native performance. More than 18,000 people attend each year. You’ll find dance, theater, music and film, as well as traditional arts like pow wow. BATTLE OF THE BRUSH 36 Heritage Hall February 22 C$15-25 www.goldenbrushart.com Check out this live painting competition where artists team up to create paintings in a timed situation. Guests judge which team reigns supreme. The theme this time around? Greatest of All Time.
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Outdoors
26. Athlete | 28. Notes from the Adventure
Flying High
Xuan Cheng keeps raising the bar at Oregon Ballet Theatre WRITTEN BY MACKENZIE WILSON
XUAN CHENG Age: 33 Hometown: Chenzhou, Hunan Province Notable achievements: Principal dancer, Guangzhou Ballet; silver medal, 2004 Shanghai International Ballet Competition; finalist, 2005 New York International Ballet Competition; gold medal, 2006 National Tao Li Bei Dance Competition; principal dancer since 2011, Oregon Ballet Theatre
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Xuan Cheng is a principal dancer for the Oregon Ballet Theatre.
“It takes a lot of sacrifice, and you have to really love it like 300 percent because it doesn’t just come. … You have to really pay for it. I mean pay for it by working on it, striving for it, not just physically but mentally.”
YIN YI Photography
— Xuan Cheng, principal dancer for the Oregon Ballet Theatre
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SINCE SHE WAS a little girl living in China, Xuan Cheng, 33, has been familiar with call times. At 10 years old, she left home to attend the School of Guangzhou Ballet of China, where she and other aspiring ballerinas started their days with a rigorous hour-and-a-half workout at 5:30 a.m. “We were like a little army,” Cheng said. She doesn’t sugarcoat the school’s strictness—snacks weren’t allowed and neither were family visits. Cheng’s family lived five and a half hours away by train and she saw them once or twice a year. The only relief from the isolation was a five-minute phone call once a week to loved ones. Now a principal dancer for the Oregon Ballet Theatre, Cheng can appreciate the level of discipline it took to push her and the other students to perfection. “It takes a lot of sacrifice and you have to really love it like 300 percent because it doesn’t just come. … You have to really pay for it,” Cheng said. “I mean pay for it by working on it, striving for it, not just physically but mentally.” Cheng spent five years at the school, which was a training ground for its own company of dancers. In 2000, she became a company dancer with the Guangzhou Ballet company. Competition took her to New York in 2005, where she felt a freedom she didn’t know. “The experience changed me. … I wanted more than just to
be a baby ballerina in the company, I wanted more for my life, I wanted to travel, to see the world and dance internationally,” Cheng said. Shortly after, she danced with two companies in Montreal, Quebec. “Once you are on stage dancing it’s like a drug. It’s addictive, you want more.” In 2011, Cheng auditioned in Portland for the Oregon Ballet Theatre with her husband, who is also a professional dancer. “It’s just a very nice city to live in, and as Chinese, English is our second language, but you feel very welcome. You don’t feel you’re different than anyone else,” Cheng said. Besides being a principal dancer, Cheng also teaches ballet. She’s not moving into her final act yet, but decades of dancing have taken a toll on her body. “It’s hard for a dancer when you’re past 30 because your body feels different than when you’re 20, but then your mind understands more,” Cheng said. “That’s why it’s so hard when suddenly you figure something out, but your body might not allow you to do it.” She combats the changes by devoting extra time to stretching, as well as swimming and practicing Pilates. “When you’re young it’s like, ‘I want to be the best in the class, then I want to be the best in the company,’” she said. “And at this age right now, I just want to be the best version of myself.” WINTER 2019 |
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Notes from the Adventure TRAVELER’S GUIDE TO FUN
Corner to Corner A motorcyclist’s travel journal WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JULIET GRABLE
A WEDDING INVITATION provoked my husband, Brint, to ask the question: What if we rode our motorcycle across Oregon, from corner to corner, taking as many scenic byways as possible? Our only constraint was to arrive in Imnaha, Oregon’s northeastern-most town, in time for the wedding. Hundreds of miles of tantalizing roads lay before us.
Come to Your Senses We started in Brookings, dipping briefly into California to wind through the Redwoods and race the Smith River upstream. When you’re on a bike, the elements come close. No steel cage. No windshield. You don’t just see the cathedral of Redwood columns arching above the road—you smell the sweet rot of forest mulch. At the Coffee Angel in Cave Junction, a man leaned out the window of his delivery truck. Where are you coming from? Where are you going? You know, he added, I used to ride. The Applegate Valley was June-fresh and sunny—it was the warmest we would be all week. After a brief stop in Ashland, we leaned into the curves of Highway 66, powering up the western flank of the Cascades.
The writer’s ride, seen here at Crater Lake National Park. 28
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See
Albany
Discover Oregon Explore.
Farm fresh cuisine, historic districts, unique shopping, family fun.
Find your way.
Download the free Albany Explorer App from Google Play or Apple App Store.
541-928-0911 www.albanyvisitors.com 110 3rd Ave SE Albany, OR 97321
Near Rocky Point, red-winged blackbirds flushed while hawks scanned the fields from telephone poles. The air was thick with cottonwood fluff and the fragrance of sweet grass and manure—cows lined up like train cars, heading for hay. We stopped at Jo’s in Fort Klamath, where the proprietor made us espresso drinks and told us about the house that just burned down. One of motorcycling’s simple pleasures is returning to a sun-warmed seat after a stop. Riding isn’t always comfortable. Your legs cramp, your butt numbs. As we climbed the turns toward Crater Lake, the chill from dwindling snowfields bit through my riding jacket.
Travel Light and Take Notes Brint has a 2004 Aprilia Futura named Ginger, and we rode two-up, with me seated on the pillion behind him. We didn’t pack anything extra—just a backpacking tent, sleeping bags, one change of clothes and the espresso pot. We camped at Diamond Lake, a classic mountain lake resort with a store stocked with beans, marshmallows, Powerbait and T-shirts. We turned off Highway 97 for the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway, looping past recently charred trees and sapphire lakes. Descending into Bend, I saluted the bicyclists climbing to Mount Bachelor on their own power. While you’re on the bike you can’t eat, drink, talk or scroll on your smartphone. But you see things: Between Powell Butte and Prineville, fields choked with juniper, foals lying in the sun, a couple pushing a stroller next to the highway. She was wearing a red cape; he a wolf suit. You hope you’ll remember it all.
Learn Local Lore In Mitchell, we stocked up on tomato soup and avocados. Donnie, who pumps gas and sells gems and petrified wood, told us why locals call Mitchell Tiger Town (Irish loggers would spill out of the bar and brawl in the street) and let us peek inside the stone building built into the hill behind the gas station, where a Chinese herbalist stocked an apothecary in Gold Rush days. Riding east toward the John Day Fossil Beds, the landscape turned from lovely to lonely—sage and juniper and eroded buttes. On Highway 19, we noticed a sign for Lands Inn off a dirt road. Five cautious miles later, we discovered an unlikely oasis—a hidden basin cradling a lush green airstrip. Tom, a former Boeing mechanic, let us camp next to the historic hangar, which once sheltered the planes of Charles Lindbergh and Amelia Earhart.
Forget About Yelp From Kimberly, we curved through narrow river valleys striped with cut hay, then made a long, straight, eerie 30
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descent into Long Valley. Highway 395 from Dale to Ukiah, where the road hugs the John Day River, was like riding through a postcard. For us, motorcycle touring isn’t about finding the best restaurant in the county, but discovering places like The Thicket in Ukiah, where you can wrap chilled hands around a mug of drip coffee and watch the cook flip elk burgers and scoop tater tots into paper-lined baskets. When we emerged, a half-dozen bikes were lined up next to Ginger. We swapped tales of the road and email addresses with Albert, a music history professor from Walla Walla.
Stop Often and Roll With It In La Grande, we hopped on I-84 for a 5-mile stretch— the only interstate traffic we saw the entire trip—then stopped at a gas station to fuel up and wipe the bugs off our helmets. Eastward, clouds billowed over the www.ontrakmag.com
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Checking out the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. Crater Lake National Park is a must-see on any Oregon road trip. Enterprise is a small town in Wallowa County. Lands Inn in Kimberly has cabins, camping and a runway. On the road to Mount Bachelor. A quick stop at The Thicket Cafe & Bar in Ukiah.
Wallowas as if pumped out of a machine. Handsome red barns with white trim and prominent prows studded the green country. We stopped in tiny Lostine, snagged by an antique store which housed the most meticulously catalogued inventory of premium junk we had ever seen—a maze of saws and shears; hand planes and hammers; curry combs and hubcaps. It started to drizzle, then rain, then sheet. We took refuge at the Log House, a motorcycle-friendly RV campground on the edge of Enterprise. Pea-sized hail bounced on the grass while we waited out the storm in the lobby, which the proprietor stocked with motorcycle magazines, old cameras and model bikes. For us, Imnaha was the end of the road. We saw old friends and met new ones, and the next day, the weather pushed us back west. www.ontrakmag.com
When you’re on a bike, the elements come close. No steel cage. No windshield. You don’t just see the cathedral of Redwood columns arching above the road—you smell the sweet rot of forest mulch. WINTER 2019 |
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Check out DJK in Beaverton for Korean barbecue.
Weekender MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND
International Feast
Finding foodie treasures in the southwest Portland suburbs WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARLY DIAZ
IN SOME CITIES, the word “suburbs” evokes images of Red Lobster, Cracker Barrel and The Olive Garden. Then there are the suburbs of Portland. That’s right—the city increasingly known for being so foodie-friendly has plenty of neighbors making names for themselves, as well. You can travel the world in the southwest suburbs of Portland. Hit up Thailand, Korea and El Salvador in Beaverton. Visit Japan, Mexico and Vietnam in Hillsboro. From Aloha to Tigard to Forest Grove, there’s no shortage of delicious international restaurants waiting—so we made a weekend of it. One of the best things about Beaverton is that you can drive right past what looks like a nondescript shopping plaza for years before stopping in and discovering the treasures that await. This happened to me with The Best Baguette, a haven of freshly baked bread and banh mis like you’ve never 32
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tasted in the United States. My husband and I split a Best Baguette Special, only later learning the sandwich contained pâté, ham, pork roll and head cheese. When we got the sandwich and a bubble tea, we worried the sandwich would be hard—but the crusty outside of the baguette gave way to a warm, soft inside with flavors that mixed together perfectly. Right next door was Pho King Good, a delicious and equally unassuming pho restaurant that has one of those huge numbered menus. You just can’t go wrong with a steaming bowl of spicy pho here. In the heart of Beaverton are two Asian grocery stores that are the kind you can just wander through for hours. First, Uwajimaya, the giant Asian grocer from Seattle, has had an outpost on Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway since 1998. Inside is a huge selection of hot foods, meat, fruits and vegetables I’d never seen before, www.ontrakmag.com
2019 Angus Bowmer Theatre
As You Like It By William Shakespeare Directed by Rosa Joshi
on Ticketsrting a Sale Stber 2018 Novem
Hairspray The Broadway Musical Book by Mark O’Donnell and Thomas Meehan Music by Marc Shaiman Lyrics by Scott Wittman and Marc Shaiman Based on the New Line Cinema film written and directed by John Waters Directed by Christopher Liam Moore Mother Road By Octavio Solis Directed by Bill Rauch World Premiere Indecent By Paula Vogel Directed by Shana Cooper American Revolutions
Allen Elizabethan Theatre
Thomas Theatre
Cambodian Rock Band By Lauren Yee Featuring songs by Dengue Fever Directed by Chay Yew Between Two Knees By the 1491s Directed by Eric Ting World Premiere/American Revolutions How to Catch Creation By Christina Anderson Directed by Nataki Garrett
Macbeth By William Shakespeare Directed by José Luis Valenzuela Alice in Wonderland By Eva Le Gallienne and Florida Friebus Adapted from Lewis Carroll Directed by Sara Bruner All’s Well That Ends Well By William Shakespeare Directed by Tracy Young Pilot Community Visit Project La Comedia of Errors Bilingual Play on! translation by Luis Alfaro Directed by Bill Rauch
2019 opening weekend: March 8 – 10 Playbill subject to change
March 1 – October 27 Artistic Director Bill Rauch Executive Director Cynthia Rider www.osfashland.org 1.800.219.8161 Two World Premieres and one short play about a long separation
Oklahoma! (2018): Royer Bockus, Tatiana Wechsler. Photo by Jenny Graham.
and frozen and packaged food you can’t get outside big cities or, well, Asia. On my list was a pile of Spam musubi, that popular Hawaiian snack made from grilled Spam perched on a block of rice and wrapped with nori. Sometimes it has a sweet sauce and some egg inside—either way, Uwajimaya’s was excellent and I convinced several family members to eat Spam, which is more exciting than it sounds. Next on my list was Beard Papa cream puffs. These Japanese treats have a storefront inside the grocery store. Finally, I have it on good authority that Ramen Ryoma, also tucked inside the massive grocery store, is one of the best ramen spots anywhere in Oregon. Start with a base—miso (fermented bean paste), shio (salt) or shiyu (soy sauce)—and go from there. If Uwajimaya doesn’t leave you sated, head to the newest Asian grocery in town, 99 Ranch Market. It’s ten minutes away and feels a lot different. What it lacks in polish 34
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it makes up for in extensive offerings. There’s a huge spice section, dozens of types of noodles, and a huge frozen foods section. My parents, who lived in Japan before I was born, were thrilled by several of their finds, including fresh ox tail, which my mom planned to use in soup. You can keep hitting up epic Asian restaurants in Beaverton for days—Din Tai Fung just opened its first Oregon location in the Washington Square Mall. The restaurant, which started in Taiwan, has a cultlike following and a dozen U.S. locations, bringing steamed buns, noodles and renewed life to the mall of my youth. Or swing by Du Kuh Bee in downtown Beaverton for pulled noodles, Yuzu for legit ramen and great sushi in yet another unassuming strip mall near Beaverton Town Square, or DJK nearby for Korean barbecue. There also are two excellent Indian restaurants in the near southwest suburbs, both with excellent and lowwww.ontrakmag.com
EAT FROM LEFT A banh mi and bubble tea from The Best Baguette. Gloria’s Secret Cafe serves up a selection of Salvadoran food, including pupusas topped with curtido. The torta de la casa from Ochoa’s Lupitas Tacos. Uwajimaya offers a wide selection of Asian groceries. Find Japanese fare at Syun Izakaya, which is tucked into the basement of an old library.
The Best Baguette www.thebestbaguette.com Syun Izakaya www.syun-izakaya.com Gloria’s Secret Cafe www.gloriassecretcafe.com Du Kuh Bee www.restaurantportals.com/ dukuhbee
STAY Aloft Hillsboro www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/ pdxah-aloft-hillsboro-beaverton Hilton Garden Inn www.hiltongardeninn3.hilton.com Embassy Suites Hillsboro www.embassysuites3.hilton.com Larkspur Landing Hillsboro www.larkspurhotels.com
PLAY Uwajimaya www.uwajimaya.com 99 Ranch Market www.99ranch.com Hillsboro Hops www.milb.com/hillsboro Classic Aircraft Aviation Museum www.classicaircraft.org
price buffets. Chennai Masala, in Hillsboro, gets the most attention for its $10 lunch buffet. In Beaverton, Abhiruchi South & North Indian Cuisine’s lunch buffet is a couple bucks more expensive but equally hearty. I didn’t think Hillsboro would have much to offer in the realm of Japanese food, but I was thrilled to find out I was wrong. Syun Izakaya, tucked in the basement of an old library, has beautiful rolls, a large sake menu and tempura ice cream. Heading a bit closer to culinary home, there is some excellent Central American food in the area as well. Sabor Salvadoreño, in Beaverton, is a low-key rice and beans spot with some spectacular pupusas. Or try Gloria’s Secret Cafe, a hole-in-the-wall joint in downtown Beaverton with Salvadoran food like pupusas and other Latin American fare such as paella, tacos and mole. The taco truck experience in the southwest suburbs www.ontrakmag.com
is easy to achieve on most major streets in Beaverton, Aloha, Tigard or Hillsboro. But a standout is Ochoa’s Lupitas Tacos, with the smothered enchiladas and overflowing tortas of your dreams. Out in Hillsboro, Amelia’s has two locations, a classy, colorful vibe and a $5 happy hour margarita that will curl your toes, in a good way. Daily specials change seasonally and there’s even a breakfast menu with chilaquiles and nopales con huevo, a dish that features cactus pads. Once you’ve had a belly full (literally), zoom through Hillsboro’s quaint downtown and antique shops. Hillsboro has a minor league baseball team, the Hops, whose season runs from June to September, and each summer the city hosts a huge Oregon International Air Show. Year-round, you can go to the Classic Aircraft Aviation Museum and check out restored airplanes. Soon, you’ll be hungry again. WINTER 2019 |
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Weekender
Tracy Ellen Beard
Andrew Wiese
Tracy Ellen Beard
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND
Port Townsend
Witness the resurgence of a Victorian seaport WRITTEN BY TRACY ELLEN BEARD
IN THE LATE 1800s, city fathers poured their hopes, dreams, sweat and tears into building Port Townsend, once the second-busiest seaport on the West Coast. Constructed at the northeasternmost point of the Olympic Peninsula and along the Strait of Juan de Fuca, this city sat poised for growth in anticipation of the arrival of the Pacific Coast Railroad. Alas, to quote the insightful words of Robert Burns, “The best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry.” Misfortune came upon the city—railroad planners bypassed Port Townsend in favor of a route on the east side of Puget Sound, and the city’s economy floundered. No longer are the streets filled with a parade of top hats, corsets and petticoats. The lingering aroma of fish does not permeate the air, nor do people line the docks waiting to
purchase wares from far away. The harbor that once teemed with seafaring traffic is now peppered with an assortment of recreational vessels. Today, the charming Victorian seaport thrives on tourism. The city has outstanding dining options, luxurious B&Bs and a booming art scene. Historic buildings and unique shops create a delightful ambience from days gone by. When you arrive, walk along Water Street and peruse the art galleries, quaint boutiques and Victorian shops while you treat yourself to a decadent chocolate or a scoop of ice cream from Elevated Ice Cream Co. & Candy Shop. Stroll into one of the city’s four bookstores offering readers an opportunity to escape to new worlds, live out a fantasy, or even improve their writing skills. Step back in time as you gaze upon the historic buildings, or enter the Jefferson Museum of Art and History to learn more about the seaport’s past. Maritime activities continue to influence the city. Poke around the Northwest Maritime Center and Wooden Boat Foundation near the marina. Here you will learn about the long history of the Wooden Boat Festival, and nautical enthusiasts can sign up for programs teaching world-class boatbuilding and maritime skills.
ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Port Townsend sits on the Port Townsend Bay. Finistère’s chef’s tasting menu is for adventurous appetites only. The seaport has a Victorian feel. Port Townsend’s Saturday Market appeals to all ages.
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Meet me in centralia
Explore i n 360 Downtowncentralia.org
EAT Finestère www.restaurantfinistere.com Fountain Café www.fountaincafept.com Silverwater Café www.silverwatercafe.com Taps at the Guardhouse www.facebook.com/ tapsfortworden
STAY Ravenscroft Inn www.ravenscroftinn.com Bliss Vista Cottage at Fort Worden www.fortworden.org
PLAY Jefferson Museum of Art and History www.jchsmuseum.org Northwest Maritime Center and Wooden Boat Foundation www.nwmaritime.org Port Townsend Farmers Market www.jcfmarkets.org/saturday Cellar Door www.cellardoorpt.com Sirens www.sirenspub.com
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The Northwest Maritime Center and Wooden Boat Foundation celebrate all things nautical.
Art abounds in Port Townsend, and the city’s calendar is filled with music festivals, writers’ workshops, art walks, and year-round theater featuring plays, poetry and prose. Locals and visitors enjoy the Film Festival, which showcases all types of films, including free outdoor movies on the weekends during September. Admiralty Distillers is open on Saturdays or by appointment. Jake Soule, the owner, will share his story while you taste his distilled creations. Take part in the longtime tradition of afternoon tea at Pippa’s Real Tea. Select a flavor you find appealing, then choose one of Pippa’s delectable treats as an accompaniment. Try a slice of cake or a traditional scone, but be sure to order Pippa’s authentic clotted cream—it is simply divine. For dinner, try Finistère. Owners Scott Ross and chef Deborah Taylor devised a menu with small and large plates. Diners with adventurous appetites should order the multi-course chef ’s tasting menu. The potato leek soup is delicious and soothing, and the gnocchi with pork shoulder ragu and shaved parmesan will leave you convinced that you’ve been transported to a trattoria in Italy. On Saturdays, walk a few blocks to the Port Townsend Saturday Market. Local farmers and purveyors line the blockaded streets with fresh produce and tasty morsels for patrons to relish. For lunch, assem-
ble a picnic from the market, or get a bite at the Silverwater Café downtown. Outdoor activities abound in the area, so explore the local waters by renting a kayak, rowboat, or longboat. Ride the ferry or take one of the numerous tours available near the marina. For land discoveries, enjoy one of the local trails on foot or by bike. For a diversified city walk, begin by strolling through Chetzemoka Park. Make a right at the beach and wander alongside the water down to the marina. Revel in the water’s beauty and appreciate the variety of boats, then cross back to the street and meander up the hill and admire the historic homes on your way back to the park. After exploring the outdoors, check into one of the newly renovated cottages or a historic vacation rental on Officers Row at Fort Worden State Park. The Bliss Vista Cottage sits on a hill overlooking the water with views of passing ships for your entertainment. For a drink or appetizer before dinner, stop over at Taps at the Guardhouse. If a member of your party misbehaves, put them behind bars in the old jail cell. Dine at a longtime favorite restaurant, Fountain Café. Owner Nickolas Yates uses locally sourced ingredients in his Northwest cuisine. Choose a delicious menu item like the chicken and linguini, or branch out and order one of the specials— the lamb shank is perfect. www.ontrakmag.com
42nd Annual
Newport Seafood & Wine Festival February 21-24, 2019 • Newport, Oregon Tickets online at www.seafoodandwine.com
It wouldn’t be winter on the coast without the annual Newport Seafood & Wine Festival, showcasing more than 170 premier Northwest wines, culinary professionals and regional artisans.
Presented by
PRODUCED BY THE GREATE R NE WPO RT C H AMB E R O F CO MME RC E • 1 - 8 0 0 - COAST- 4 4
WRITTEN BY ONTRAK MAGAZINE STAFF ILLUSTRATIONS BY ALLISON BYE
Foodie D e s t i n at i o n s
Aubrie LeGault
Don’t forget to stop by the Feast Portland food festival while on our tasty tour of the PNW.
A weekend, a month, a year— we have your food vacations planned
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MAYBE YOU’RE LIKE US— at breakfast on vacation, you’re already planning your next meal. The Pacific Northwest is a gigantic place, and there are bountiful crops and delightful restaurants in nearly every corner. We picked some options, from the foodiest city’s best fine dining to cooking classes to festivals celebrating the Pacific Northwest’s diversity of foods.
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Dina Avila
Nikki Unger-Fink
Spotlight on Portland: Fine Dining Portlanders pride themselves on being as casual and unpretentious as they come, but that doesn’t mean they don’t know how to gussy up and have a night on the town, complete with white tablecloths, wine pairings and break-thebank-worthy tasting menus. Plan on being early to your reservation at uber-talented chefs Will Preisch and Joel Stocks’ modernist gem Holdfast Dining, because it shares a wall and kitchen with star bartender Adam Robinson’s exceptional craft cocktail bar Deadshot. A next-door before (and after) dinner drink is mandatory. Two blocks up the street, Willow’s charming chef-duo Doug Weiler and John Pickett embrace the motto “Come over to our house for dinner.” By the end of the six-course tasting menu—served at the cozy bar overlooking the very small, very open kitchen—when you’re invited to linger in the restaurant’s living room, you’ll feel like moving in. Just on the other side of Ladd’s Addition, step into Castagna’s carefully composed dining room and splurge on sixtime James Beard Award-nominated chef Justin Woodward’s sublime 13-course
modernist chef’s tasting menu, as visually striking as it is palatable. A half-mile northwest, savor the hyperseasonal vegan tasting menu prepared right in front of you by Farm Spirit chef Kei Ohdera and crew, who dish delicacies like salt-brined celtuce and pinot-noir-braised creminis to a packed bar of fourteen, twice nightly. For a slam dunk supper at what remains one of the city’s top tables twelve years in, book seats at chef Gabriel Rucker’s petit East Burnside bistro Le Pigeon. If you don’t make the Saturday night cut, just go next door to Rucker’s no-reservations newbie Canard, Le Pigeon’s more casual, but no less culinarily ambitious sister spot. There’s always magic in the air on Broadway, so the song goes, but you’ll really believe after a meal at chef Trent Pierce’s recently revived Roe, a hidden downtown temple of butterfish sashimi in truffled white soy ponzu and cardamom-roasted lobster with smoked grapes. Score a nightcap at nearby Multnomah Whiskey Library and it’s official—you’re living, eating and drinking the Portland high life.
AT TOP, FROM LEFT Farm Spirit serves up a number of creative vegan dishes. Cozy up to the bar at Willow as you make your way through the six-course tasting menu. AT RIGHT, FROM TOP Seattle’s The Pantry offers a variety of cooking classes. Le Pigeon’s mushroom and wild rice stroganoff.
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A F o o d i e E d u c at i o n
Dan Fromhart
Maybe you want to perfect your own skills instead of enjoying a top chef’s interpretation of soul food. No matter where you travel, you can improve those knife skills and learn to cook that complicated recipe you’ve been wanting to try.
OREGON
WASHINGTON
Portland’s Culinary Workshop
The Pantry
P O R T L A N D | 807 N. Russell St. www.portlandsculinary workshop.com Three-hour hands-on classes on everything from pickling to pastries and Panang. $: $65-$85 for adults; $45 for kids 12 and younger
The Kitchen at M i d d l e g r o u n d F a r m s W i l s o n v i l l e | 4651 SW Homesteader Road www.middlegroundfarms.com The best way to learn is to go to the source. At Middleground Farms in Wilsonville accomplished chefs teach classes on cooking with apples to tapas and baking. $: $80-$180
I n s p i r e d Ta s t e s E u g e n e | 4383 N. Shasta Loop www.inspiredtastes.com Le Cordon Bleu-trained personal chef Shelly Shirk offers classes on sauces, Mexican cuisine, Indonesian and now cooking with an Instapot. $: $50
Carly Diaz
Willamette Valley Kitchen Co.
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S a l e m | 333 Chemeketa St. NE www.willamettevalley kitchenco.com Rustic Portuguese to Japanese ramen, Peruvian favorites and holiday appetizers are just a few classes offered under chef Amy Church. $: $25-$50
S e at t l e | 1417 NW 70th St. www.thepantryseattle.com Started in 2011, this spot has a little bit of everything, from cooking classes to family-style dinners and cookbook club potlucks. Sign up to get a list of classes at the start of each season, as these classes tend to fill up quickly $: $75-$130
Hot Stove Society S e at t l e | 2000 4th Ave. www.hotstovesociety.com This is the Tom Douglas Cooking School in the Hotel Andra, with many classes taught by Douglas himself. Take a cooking class or just sit in the audience as Douglas tapes his long-running radio show, Seattle Kitchen. $: $15-$150
INCA After Dark S p o k a n e | 501 N. Riverpoint Blvd. www.ccs.spokane.edu These classes, offered through the Community Colleges of Spokane’s Inland Northwest Culinary Academy, are affordable, delicious and conducted by top chef instructors who by day teach at the Culinary Academy. $: $59-$69
T h e B ay v i e w S c h o o l of Cooking O ly m p i a | 516 W. 4th Ave. www.bayviewschoolof cooking.com With kids classes, winebased cooking events and a wide variety of styles to learn
about, this is a good option for everyone. The school also offers a free class every month. $: $35-$85
VANCOUVER, BC Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts 101-1505 W. 2nd Ave. www.picachef.com Classes range from four-hour stints that teach you regional cuisine, to wine tasting lessons and seasonal favorites—late 2018 examples included “Crazy Rich Christmas,” “Boxing Day Brunchy Breads” and “Long Live Holiday Gluten!” $: C$45-$220
Northwest Culinary Academy 2725 Main St. www.nwcav.com In addition to offering professional culinary degrees, this spot offers extensive culinary courses for “enthusiasts,” from a seven-week master culinary boot camp to a six-day basics course. No matter what you choose, you’ll get a lot closer to being a master chef. $: C$733-$5,950
C o o k C u lt u r e 377 Howe St. www.cookculture.com This kitchen store offers cooking classes to help you master foods of the world— curries, sushi, Spanish paella, authentic Mexican...the list goes on and on, and will make your stomach growl. $: C$65-$95 WINTER 2019 |
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Food Festivals The Pacific Northwest’s bounty is unparalleled in several ways. Chief among them is that we love to celebrate our area’s food and drink in festival settings. Here are a few of our favorites.
OREGON Feast Portland First, the big guns. Portland being a foodie’s paradise, it’s this festival each year that delights people from around the Northwest with its daily grand tastings, chef competitions, a dinner series spread around the city, even classes to help you bring the festive spirit home. In 2018, the event featured an 80’s v. 90’s-themed chef competition, Sunday tailgate and brunch, and a night market. Bonus: the weekend each September raises tens of thousands of dollars to help food-related charities. (www. feastportland.com)
Oregon Truffle Festival
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More Festival Faves If you’re more of a small-town, single-food fest seeker, Oregon has those, too. If you revel in all things garlic, try the North Plains Elephant Garlic Festival, held annually in August (www.funstinks.com). Or try the Lebanon Strawberry Festival, entering its 110th year in 2019. This small-town festival features the world’s largest strawberry shortcake (www.lebanonstrawberryfestival. com). Revel in small-town tradition with help from the Royal Order of the Golden Strawberrians and the coronation of the Strawberry Festival Queen. Finally, swing over to the Mount Hood Huckleberry Festival and Barlow Trail Days in August for watermelon launches, a salmon bake and plenty of huckleberry jam—the event is held in a living history village in Rhododendron. (www. cascadegeographicsociety.com)
WASHINGTON
Pick from one of four experiences— The Epicurious, The Gourmand, The Truffle Growers All-In Adventure, or The Urban Forager—or pick from ala carte events like the Grand Truffle Dinner, a six-course meal featuring native black and white truffles and Oregon wines. Dog lover? Check out The Joriad North American Truffle Dog Championship. (www.oregontrufflefestival.org)
B i t e o f S e at t l e
Newport Seafood & Wine Festival
Dungeness Crab & Seafood Festival
Rounding out the big guns is the Newport Seafood & Wine Festival. Think the coast in the winter isn’t ideal? Every February for more than forty years, this coastal town has pulled out the big tent (literally) for hundreds of seafood and wine vendors at this four-day festival. There’s a wine competition and after-hours parties to keep the fun going. (www.seafoodandwine.com)
Dungeness Crab & Seafood Festival in Port Angeles is the biggest and best of a wide array of seafood-based festivals around Washington. Every October, visitors flock from around the world to taste the rich flavor of Dungeness crab. Try the Grab-A-Crab, in which you can try your hand at catching a crab from a large holding tank. (www. crabfestival.org)
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Bite of Seattle is famous, and for good reason. Held each June, this year will mark its thirty-eighth year of serving up eats from more than sixty restaurants. The free event also has vendors, beer gardens, live cooking demonstrations and tons of live bands. The atmosphere, in the shadow of the Space Needle, is worth checking out. (www. biteofseattle.com)
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Kathryn Elsesser
Scott Brammer Photography Christopher Nelson
More Festival Faves Wine is not technically a food. However, plenty of restaurants show up for the Vancouver Wine & Jazz Festival, and wine and music make everything OK (www.vancouverwinejazz. com). For something entirely different, make your way to the National Lentil Festival, held each August in Pullman. There’s a lentil cookoff, as well as a Lil Lentil King and Queen (www. lentilfest.com). The Chocolate on the Beach Festival is just what it sounds like—13 miles of chocolate everything that runs for four days in the communities of Moclips, Aloha, Copalis Crossing, Seabrook, Copalis Beach and Ocean City (www.chocolateonthe beach.com). Back in Seattle, the Bacon & Beer Classic hits big cities all over the U.S., and Seattle celebrates these wonderful flavors in May (www.baconandbeerclassic.com) at Safeco Field. The Seattle Street Food Festival (www. seattlestfoodfest.com) offers visitors five blocks of street food vendors.
VANCOUVER, BC Dine Out Vancouver Most notable for lovers of all restaurants Vancouver, of course, is Dine Out Vancouver (www.dineoutvancouver.com). It’s not a festival, per se, so
much as seventeen days each winter to celebrate the glory of Vancouver restaurants. There are guest chef dinners, brunch crawls, wine tastings and cooking classes. The true genius of this event is hundreds of restaurants offering multicourse dinners for either C$20, C$30 or C$40.
Richmond Night Market The Richmond Night Market (www. richmondnightmarket.com) is a close second in this area’s rich food festival history. It only comes in second because it isn’t really a festival—the night market opens with a new theme each year and runs on weekends throughout the summer. More than a hundred food stalls, most of them with an Asian influence, are joined by live entertainment and other vendors selling a wide variety of goods. It’s an easy way to try tons of different Asian foods all in one place.
Steveston Salmon Festival The Steveston Salmon Festival is a celebration of Canada’s birthday, and more than 80,000 people come for Canada Day (July 1). But the biggest draw is probably the salmon barbecue, with more than 1,200 pounds of wild salmon fillets grilled over the open fire, just C$16 a plate (www.stevestonsalmonfest.ca).
AT LEFT, FROM TOP Dine Out Vancouver runs for seventeen days at hundreds of restaurants. Bite of Seattle takes place in the shadow of the Space Needle. AT TOP, FROM LEFT February marks the forty-second Newport Seafood & Wine Festival. The Oregon Truffle Festival has events in Eugene and the Yamhill Valley.
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Department of Energy
Hanford’s B Reactor at the height of the Manhattan Project.
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Preserving the Past How to remember and celebrate the mixed legacy of
Hanford
WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER
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Hanford.
Long shrouded in secrecy, this 586 square miles of desert in southeast Washington played a pivotal role
in World War II and the Cold War.
It was the site of incredible scientific and technological advancements that dramatically changed the United States and the world. But the work that happened here wasn’t without consequence—it created the plutonium used in the nuclear bomb detonated over Nagasaki, and production of that plutonium and other nuclear weapons rendered it a Superfund site with 56 million gallons of nuclear waste. Hanford officially stopped producing plutonium and electricity in 1987, and today is known as much for the multibillion dollar cleanup as it is for the incredible backstory on how that waste came to be. Now, the federal government and a diverse group of community members are preserving the mixed legacy of this storied, if silent, place, with both the Manhattan Project National Historical Park and other efforts.
Hanford’s History Mike Mays runs Washington State University’s Hanford History Project. Mays grew up in Washington, went to high school in Pullman and earned degrees from the University of Puget Sound and the University of Washington. Still, when he got to Richland for his appointment at WSU-Tri-Cities, he didn’t know much about Hanford. “My wife is from Alabama, and she was doing research and had to explain to me some of the details of the significance of the Tri-Cities and Richland and Hanford,” Mays said. “I was just shocked. Having grown up here and taken Washington state history in high school and to know really so little about what had happened was kind of shocking to me.” The site was selected by the federal government in 1942 for its role in the Manhattan Project, a program to develop nuclear bombs in response to the Germans’ discovery of nuclear fission. Hanford, along with Oak Ridge, 48
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Tennessee, and Los Alamos, New Mexico, were secret locations dedicated to figuring out how to harness the power of nuclear fission and create the bombs that eventually brought to a grinding halt World War II. When it was selected to house this section of the Manhattan Project, residents of White Bluffs and Hanford were given thirty days to leave their homes and farms in early 1943 and given a small amount of money to do so. Then, it was time to recruit the workers—eventually 51,000 people in all. Many knew little about what they might be building or what the facilities would be used for. According to the federal government’s official Hanford website, making plutonium is inefficient—that is, to make a little plutonium you have to create a lot of waste, both liquid and solid. The site continued to create plutonium during the Cold War, and today about 8,000 employees continue to decommission, decontaminate and take down the buildings used to make the plutoniwww.ontrakmag.com
um. That means making sure the waste doesn’t get in the air, water, or ground. But Mays, like many who grew up here, had only the vaguest notion of all this. So he decided he could prevent other students from having that aha moment later in life. As an administrator, he searched for ways to build academics on campus, and found a natural match—advancing the history of Hanford. Community groups around the area had given oral histories, but there was no central clearinghouse. “They were tucked away in shoeboxes in people’s garages and attics and so forth,” Mays said. The Department of Energy created seed money to help the Hanford History Project begin conducting oral histories, primarily focused on the residents who lived in Hanford and nearby White Bluff before 1943. The project collected the oral histories hiding in people’s homes, as well as its own, all in one place. They’re now digitized, transcribed and on a website, www.hanfordhistory.com. WSU-Tri-Cities also offers a freshman interdisciplinary seminar course that focuses on Hanford history. Students work on semester-long projects devoted to the Manhattan Project and the area’s involvement in it. “While there are many people who know very deeply the history within the community … I would say most people are not fully aware of what the importance of the Manhattan Project was, not only for the community but for the world,” Mays said. The Hanford History Project also facilitates research and manages the Hanford Collection—3,000 unique artifacts collected from the Hanford site between 1997 and 2014, dating between 1943 and 1990. Pieces from the collection are loaned out to museums, and the project continues to gather papers from notable Hanford alums. To Mays, preserving Hanford’s history is a simple choice—he believes the Manhattan Project was the most significant event of the twentieth century. “There’s a lot of competition for that claim, but the discovery of nuclear fission and the development of nuclear weapons fundamentally changed the way that we experience life,” he said. Mays believes there are several reasons Washington natives and other members of the public don’t have a strong understanding of the significance of Hanford. There’s an idea in Tri-Cities like many other places, Mays said, that “if it happened in my backyard it can’t be that interesting.” There’s also the fact that the project was so secret for so long—many people didn’t know that relatives worked at www.ontrakmag.com
Department of Energy
Years of lobbying resulted in B Reactor’s preservation.
Hanford, or if they knew that’s where they worked, they didn’t know what they did there. Mays also points to Hanford’s mixed legacy, and believes sometimes the humanitarian and environmental questions overshadow the scientific advancements made there. “After Three Mile Island in 1979 and Chernobyl in 1986, there was a reconsideration of nuclear that was absolutely called for,” Mays said. “Nobody can argue with people’s concerns. … A lot of the story just gets eclipsed because of the very legitimate concerns of downwinders and the effects of not only the bombs that were dropped on Japan but the prolific testing that happened after that, and the impacts that had on communities from the Marshall Islands to Nevada to Washington and so on and so forth. It shifted the pendulum.” Now it’s about trying to get the pendulum back to the middle, Mays said—where the public can consider the incredible science and technological advancements made while also recognizing the humanitarian issues and environmental problems that came from the Manhattan Project. “The Tri-Cities community has been a little defensive, and they have some good reasons to be. It’s a community where the nuclear industry has been its lifeblood, first with the Manhattan Project and then with nuclear energy, and then with the complete reversal—with the cleanup,” Mays said. “So the tendency has been to focus a little bit more on the heroic, the Greatest Generation and the engineering and technological feats. That shouldn’t be discounted, but that’s only one part of the story. Likewise, if we only focused on contamination and the bombings of Nagasaki and Hiroshima, again that’s only one side of the story.” WINTER 2019 |
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Atomic Heritage Foundation
Today, the public can tour the B Reactor and other parts of Hanford.
Preserving B Reactor Mays wasn’t the first person in the Tri-Cities to realize the importance of preserving Hanford’s history for future generations. For more than twenty-five years, a group calling itself the B Reactor Museum Association toiled in an effort to prevent the site’s destruction. The association is primarily made up of people who worked at Hanford, though it is open to anyone. John Fox, president of the B Reactor Museum Association, described the group as a grassroots effort to persuade federal authorities that instead of sealing it and forgetting about it, they should save just this one reactor. It took years, Fox said, and a lot of help from engineering societies around the country, to get the building designated as a historic engineering achievement. “It was a very high-risk gamble from the standpoint of physics and chemistry,” Fox said of the reactor and the rest of the site. “It was taking something from the very forefront of scientific research at the time to mass production on an industrial scale.” After the reactor was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1992, designated a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 1994, and named a National Historic Landmark in 2008, the B Reactor opened for annual public tours in 2009. Not all of the building 50
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is available for tours—due to hazards—but the control room and much of where the action took place is open to visitors. Today, association members are still called on for special tours. Fox hosted a tour for Mitsugi Moriguchi, a survivor of the Nagasaki bombing. The year the bomb dropped, the Japanese visitor was 8 years old, while Fox turned 18. “I expected to be drafted to invade Japan, but the bomb was dropped in August and the war was over in September,” Fox said. “I wasn’t drafted, and Japan wasn’t invaded.” In other words, Fox said, the bomb affected his life in another way—he could very well have been killed in combat if the war had gone on.
Creating a National Park The B Reactor Museum Association worked with a variety of groups in preserving the reactor. Chief among those is Cindy Kelly, the founder and president of the Atomic Heritage Foundation. Kelly started the foundation in 2002 with the mission of creating a Manhattan Project National Historical Park. Over the past sixteen years, the foundation has worked to preserve properties at Hanford, as well as in Oak Ridge and Los Alamos, and worked with the local communities in those places to preserve and interpret the history. The Atomic Heritage Foundation also has a huge onwww.ontrakmag.com
line presence, offering up primary source documents and oral histories to the curious—want to see Albert Einstein’s letter to FDR warning of the German effort to make an atomic bomb? You’re in luck. Want to hear female physicist Leona Marshall Libby explain xenon poisoning? You’ve come to the right place. “I think by studying the past, we get a better sense for the present,” Kelly said. “Obviously we are in a world full of nuclear weapons, on the one hand. On the other hand, the world is full of the benefits—nuclear medicine and research—that were generated by the project. Scientific innovations, high-speed computing, the human genome project, studies to understand what low doses of radiation can do in all sorts of contexts. All of these advances have been a direct descendant of the work done in the Manhattan Project, so it’s a very rich history.” The park was established in November 2015 after the Department of Energy and National Park Service came to an agreement on the project. DOE owns and manages the sites, while the park service handles visitor centers and interpretive services. In Hanford, the free, four-hour guided tours cover the B Reactor as well as several pre-Manhattan Project facilities, including the old high school and the Hanford Construction Camp Historic District. The biggest challenge of preserving Hanford, Fox said, came down to budget. The Department of Energy has a clear mission for Hanford at this point—to put its money into cleaning it up and packaging the 56 million gallons of nuclear waste that sit in underground tanks. “That’s proving to be more of a challenge than building and operating the place in the first place, which is ironic,” Fox said. “Anything that doesn’t fit in that cleanup mission is harder to justify in the eyes of the federal agency, so (the park) took a lot of persuasion.” Kelly recognizes the controversies of the Manhattan Project, both environmental and humanitarian, but said it’s important to keep it in context. “What’s the legacy of Gettysburg, or Antietam?” she asked. “The Civil War was a bloodbath. Talk about brutal—they were bayonetting each other and short-range firing. If you look at it now, that field is kind of bucolic-looking and it’s hard to imagine.” As to the environmental legacy, she notes only 10 percent of the 580 square miles was used, and identified the environmental legacy of Hanford as one of advancing state-of-the-art environmental cleanup technologies. “Most of Hanford is pristine,” she said. “There’s a section of Hanford that has flora and fauna not seen in the wild since the days of Lewis and Clark. It’s always been a little frustrating to hear the drumbeat that it’s the largest Superfund site in the world.” www.ontrakmag.com
“I think by studying the past, we get a better sense for the present. Obviously we are in a world full of nuclear weapons, on the one hand. On the other hand, the world is full of the benefits— nuclear medicine and research—that were generated by the project. … All of these advances have been a direct descendant of the work done in the
Manhattan Project.”
— Cindy Kelly, Atomic Heritage Foundation
When the idea of the Manhattan Project National Historical Park first surfaced, Kelly said the park service worried about putting rangers at a Superfund site. But, she said, there’s less radiation in the B Reactor than outside of it. “It’s not as bad as people think. Far from it,” she said. “That’s not to say there are not areas that are contaminated. The tank waste poses a unique disposal problem of what to do with it.” There is a section on the park’s website noting some areas are still part of “active DOE mission activities,” and as a result some of the facilities aren’t open to the public or can only be visited through bus tours. Fox hopes his group can help present more information about the environmental cleanup process, which Fox called “the fission product mess, which is the devilish problem here.” “History is what happened and why it happened at the time, with the level of knowledge and understanding at that time,” Fox said. “Looking back at whether it should have happened or been avoided, we can always debate that forever. But what happened, happened. We aren’t necessarily memorializing it or lauding it by preserving it. It’s as important to preserve it as a reminder of the bad consequences it had and to say, ‘Maybe we should learn how to avoid doing these things when the next opportunity comes along.’” Kelly agreed. “It’s all part of our history,” Kelly said. “You don’t have to save everything—progress comes along. But I think it’s important to have something from every chapter. People are going to be curious about this, for generations to come.” WINTER 2019 |
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A fishing boat cruises by on the Columbia River.
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FISHING THE COLUMBIA PHOTOGRAPHY BY JUSTIN BAILIE
WE HAD A hankering to learn to fish, and Leaf Geraghty of Skookum Fishing Charters was happy to oblige. Rising at dawn, we knew opening day for salmon fishing wasn’t the most ideal time to catch a fish, but we figured we’d give it a try. Headed out from Buoy 10 near Astoria, we tried our hand. Though unsuccessful, we caught something else—the bug for sport fishing.
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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Charter guide Leaf Geraghty prepares for an early-morning fishing trip. Boats along the Columbia River. Geraghty holds a fish in a net. The Astoria-Megler Bridge spans the river.
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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Leaf Geraghty in search of salmon. Geraghty’s dogs, Ellie and Buddy. A caught fish. Traffic on the Columbia River can be daunting.
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Eat + Stay + Play
Oregon Guide
Cana’s Feast Winery $$, Winery Carlton 37.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.852.0002 www.canasfeastwinery.com
Gloria’s Secret Café Beaverton $$, Latin American 8.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.268.2124 www.gloriassecretcafe.com
Oregon City Brewing Co. $$, Brewpub 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.908.1948 www.ocbeerco.com
Imperial Restaurant $$, American 0.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.7222 www.imperialpdx.com
R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar $$, Wine McMinnville 38.7 MILES FROM STATION 866.472.8614 www.rstuartandco.com
Laurelhurst Market $$$, Steakhouse 2.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.206.3097 www.laurelhurstmarket.com
PORTLAND
Imperial, Portland, Oregon
EUGENE Belly Taquería $$, Mexican 69 FEET FROM STATION 541.683.5896 www.eatbelly.com The Bier Stein $$, American, Pub 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 541.485.2437 www.thebierstein.com
Christos Pizzeria & Lounge $$, Pizza 1.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.371.2892 www.christospizzasalem.com
WildCraft Cider Works $$, New American 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.735.3506 www.wildcraftciderworks.com
Gamberetti’s Italian Restaurant $$, Italian 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.399.7446 www.gamberettis.com
ALBANY
Marché $$, French 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.3612 www.marcherestaurant.com
Calapooia Brewing $$, Brewpub 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.1931 www.calapooiabrewing.com
McMenamins High Street Brewery & Café $$, Brewpub 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 541.345.4905 www.mcmenamins.com OUR PICK
Frankie’s Restaurant $$, American, Steakhouse 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.248.3671 www.frankies-oregon.com
Oregon Electric Station $$$, Steakhouse, Italian, Seafood 374 FEET FROM STATION 541.485.4444 www.oesrestaurant.com Sushi Pure $$, Sushi 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.654.0608 www.sushipureeugene.com
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Tacovore $$, Mexican 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 541.735.3518 www.tacovorepnw.com
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Sybaris Bistro $$$, New American 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.8157 www.sybarisbistro.com
SALEM ACME Cafe $$, American 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.798.4736 www.acmecafe.net
Wild Pear $$, Cafe 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.378.7515 www.wildpearcatering.com Willamette Valley Vineyards Turner $$, Winery 9.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.588.9463 www.wvv.com
OREGON CITY Adelsheim Vineyard Newberg $$$, Winery 29 MILES FROM STATION 503.538.3652 www.adelsheim.com ArborBrook Vineyards Newberg $$, Winery 29.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.538.0959 www.arborbrookwines.com
The Best Baguette Beaverton $, Vietnamese, Sandwiches 8.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.626.2288 www.thebestbaguette.com OUR PICK Caffe Mingo $$, Italian 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.226.4646 www.caffemingonw.com Chennai Masala Hillsboro $$, Indian 12 MILES FROM STATION 503.531.9500 www.chennaimasala.net Decarli Beaverton $$, Italian 8.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.641.3223 www.decarlirestaurant.com Du Kuh Bee Beaverton $$, Korean, Asian Fusion 8.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.643.5388 www.restaurantportals.com/ dukuhbee Elephant’s Delicatessen $$, Deli MULTIPLE LOCATIONS www.elephantsdeli.com
Le Bouchon $$$, French 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.248.2193 www.bouchon-portland.com Oven and Shaker $$, Pizza, Italian 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.241.1600 www.ovenandshaker.com The Palm Court $$$, American 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.2000 www.bensonhotel.com The Parish $$, Seafood, Southern 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.227.2421 www.theparishpdx.com Ruth’s Chris Steak House $$$, Steakhouse 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.221.4518 www.ruthschris.com Serratto Restaurant & Bar $$, Italian, Mediterranean, Modern European 1 MILE FROM STATION 503.221.1195 www.serratto.com Syun Izakaya Hillsboro $$, Japanese 16.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.640.3131 www.syun-izakaya.com
Garden Bar $$, Vegetarian MULTIPLE LOCATIONS www.gardenbarpdx.com
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Guide
Eat + Stay + Play
EUGENE OUR PICK Best Western New Oregon Motel 2 MILES FROM STATION 541.683.3669 www.book.bestwestern.com C’est La Vie Inn 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 541.302.3014 www.cestlavieinn.com Courtyard Eugene Springfield 4.6 MILES FROM STATION 541.726.2121 www.marriott.com Excelsior Inn 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.6963 www.excelsiorinn.com Hilton 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.2000 www.hilton.com Holiday Inn Express & Suites 3 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.1243 www.ihg.com Oval Door Bed & Breakfast Inn 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.683.3160 www.ovaldoor.com Phoenix Inn Suites 1 MILE FROM STATION 541.344.0001 www.phoenixinn.com Valley River Inn 3 MILES FROM STATION 541.743.1000 www.valleyriverinn.com
ALBANY Best Western Plus Prairie Inn 2.5 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.5050 www.book.bestwestern.com Comfort Suites 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.2053 www.comfortsuites.com Phoenix Inn Suites 2.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.926.5696 www.phoenixinn.com
SALEM The Grand Hotel 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.540.7800 www.grandhotelsalem.com Hampton Inn & Suites 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.362.1300 www.hamptoninn3.hilton.com Red Lion 2.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.370.7888 www.redlion.com
OREGON CITY Best Western Plus Rivershore Hotel 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.655.7141 www.book.bestwestern.com Grand Hotel at Bridgeport Tigard 11.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.968.5757 www.grandhotelbridgeport.com Lakeshore Inn Lake Oswego 6.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.636.9679 www.thelakeshoreinn.com
PORTLAND OUR PICK
Embassy Suites Portland Washington Square Tigard 11.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.644.4400 www.portlandembassy suites.com Friendly Bike Guest House 2.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.799.2615 www.friendlybikeguest house.com Hilton Garden Inn 10.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.439.1717 www.hiltongardeninn3. hilton.com Hotel Eastlund 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.235.2100 www.hoteleastlund.com Hotel Modera 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 877.484.1084 www.hotelmodera.com Inn @ Northrup Station 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.224.0543 www.northrupstation.com Jupiter Hotel 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.230.9200 www.jupiterhotel.com
Larkspur Landing Hillsboro 15.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.681.2121 www.larkspurhotels.com McMenamins Edgefield Troutdale 13.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.669.8610 www.mcmenamins.com McMenamins Grand Lodge Forest Grove 25.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.992.9533 www.mcmenamins.com
Tierra Soul Urban Farm & Guesthouse 2.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.489.7645 www.tierrasoulpdx.com Timberline Lodge Timberline 62.5 MILES FROM STATION 800.547.1406 www.timberlinelodge.com The Westin 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.294.9000 www.westinportland.com
The Nines 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 877.229.9995 www.thenines.com Resort at the Mountain Mt. Hood Village 45.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.622.3101 www.theresort.com River’s Edge Hotel & Spa 4.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.802.5800 www.riversedgehotel.com Shift Vacation Rentals 3.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.208.2581 www.shiftvacationrentals.com
Ace Hotel 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.2277 www.acehotel.com Aloft Hillsboro Hillsboro 12.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.277.1900 www.marriott.com/hotels/ travel/pdxah-aloft-hillsborobeaverton The Benson, a Coast Hotel 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.2000 www.coasthotels.com Caravan: The Tiny House Hotel 2.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.288.5225 www.tinyhousehotel.com Embassy Suites Hillsboro Hillsboro 12.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.718.0007 www.embassysuites3.hilton.com C’est La Vie Inn, Eugene, Oregon
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Eat + Stay + Play Historic Elsinore Theatre 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.375.3574 www.elsinoretheatre.com
EUGENE
ALBANY
Bijou Metro 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.686.3229 www.bijou-cinemas.com
Albany Antique Mall 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 541.704.0109 www.albanyantiquemall.com
Cascades Raptor Center 5.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.485.1320 www.eraptors.org
Gallery Calapooia 0.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.971.5701 www.gallerycalapooia.com
Heritage Dry Goods 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.393.6710 www.heritagedrygoods.com
Oregon Coast Aquarium Newport 65 MILES FROM STATION 541.867.3474 www.aquarium.org
Bridgeport Village Tigard 11.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.968.1704 www.bridgeport-village.com
SALEM
Clackamas Repertory Theater 3.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.594.6047 www.clackamasrep.org OUR PICK
Hult Center for the Performing Arts 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 541.682.5087 www.hultcenter.org Museum of Natural & Cultural History 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.346.3024 www. natural-history. uoregon.edu
Gilbert House Children’s Museum 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.371.3631 www.acgilbert.org
OREGON CITY
End of the Oregon Trail 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.657.9336 www.historicoregoncity.org
PORTLAND 99 Ranch Market Beaverton 10.9 MILES FROM STATION 888.910.8899 www.99ranch.com
McMenamins Crystal Ballroom 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.225.0047 www.mcmenamins.com
Bella Casa 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.222.5337 www.bellacasa.net
Mt. Hood Meadows Ski Resort Mt. Hood 75 MILES FROM STATION 503.337.2222 www.skihood.com
Bonnet 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.954.2271 www.shop.bonnet boutique.com Boys Fort 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.567.1015 www.boysfort.com Classic Aircraft Aviation Museum Hillsboro 17.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.693.1414 www.classicaircraft.org Ellington Handbags 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.542.3149 www.ellingtonhandbags.com Garnish Apparel 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.954.2292 www.garnishapparel.com
Greg Rains
Oakway Center 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.485.4711 www.oakwaycenter.com
Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum + Waterpark McMinnville 24.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.434.4185 www.evergreenmuseum.org
Salem Center 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.399.9676 www.salemcenter.com
Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.248.4335 www.portland5.com
Oregon Museum of Science and Industry 1.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.797.4000 www.omsi.edu Oregon Zoo 3.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.226.1561 www.oregonzoo.org Physical Element 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.224.5425 www.physicalelement.com Pittock Mansion 2.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.823.3623 www.pittockmansion.org OUR PICK Portland Art Museum 1 MILE FROM STATION 503.226.2811 www.portlandartmuseum.org Rachelle M. Rustic House of Fashion 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 971.319.6934 www.rachellem.com Rice Northwest Museum of Rocks & Minerals Hillsboro 17.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.647.2418 www.ricenorthwest museum.org Twist 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.224.0334 www.twistonline.com US Outdoor Store 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.223.5937 www.usoutdoor.com Uwajimaya Beaverton 7.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.643.4512 www.uwajimaya.com
Historic Elsinore Theatre, Salem, Oregon 60
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Guide
Eat + Stay + Play
Washington Guide
KELSO/LONGVIEW
TACOMA
The Office 842 $$, Coffee, Cocktails, Tapas 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.442.4647 www.theoffice842.com
Asado $$$, Argentine 4.8 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.7770 www.asadotacoma.com
CENTRALIA
Odd Otter Brewery $, Brewery 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 253.327.1680 www.oddotterbrewing.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY Farrelli’s Pizza $$, Italian 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 360.493.2090 www.farrellispizza.com Fish Tale Brew Pub $$, Brewpub 7.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.943.3650 www.fishbrewing.com Hop Jacks $$, American 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.528.2174 www.hopjacks.net
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BELLINGHAM
Revel $$, Asian Fusion, Korean 5.9 MILES FROM STATION 206.547.2040 www.revelseattle.com
Colophon Café $$, Café, Salad, Sandwiches 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.647.0092 www.colophoncafe.com
Seastar Restaurant & Raw Bar $$$, American, Seafood Bellevue 10.7 MILES FROM STATION 425.456.0010 www.seastarrestaurant.com
Leaf & Ladle $$, Soup, Sandwiches 3.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.319.9718 www.facebook.com/ leafandladle OUR PICK
Sharps Roasthouse $$, American, BBQ SeaTac 13.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.241.5744 www.sharpsroasthouse.com
Magdalena’s Creperie $$, Breakfast, Brunch, Desserts 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.483.8569 www.magdalenascreperie.com
TanakaSan $$, Asian Fusion 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.812.8412 www.tanakasanseattle.com
Pacific Grill, Tacoma, Washington
McMenamins Olympic Club Pub $$, Brewpub 0.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.5164 www.mcmenamins.com
OUR PICK
Pacific Grill $$, American, Seafood 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 253.627.3535 www.pacificgrilltacoma.com
TUKWILA Miyabi Sushi $$, Japanese 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 206.575.6815 www.miyabisushi.com
SEATTLE Assaggio Ristorante $$$, Italian 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.441.1399 www.assaggioseattle.com
Eastside Bar & Grill $$, American Bellevue 11.6 MILES FROM STATION 425.455.9444 www.coasthotels.com
Westward $$, Mediterranean, Breakfast, American 5.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.552.8215 www.westwardseattle.com
EDMONDS
Frolik Kitchen & Cocktails $$, American, Breakfast 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.971.8015 www.frolik.motifseattle.com
Arnies Restaurant $$, Seafood 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 425.771.5688 www.arniesrestaurant.com
John Howie Steak $$$$, American, Steakhouse Bellevue 10 MILES FROM STATION 425.440.0880 www.johnhowiesteak.com
EVERETT
Little Water Cantina $$, Mexican 4 MILES FROM STATION 206.397.4940 www.littlewatercantina.com Loulay Kitchen & Bar $$, French, Breakfast 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.402.4588 www.thechefinthehat.com Pine Box $$, Brewpub 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.588.0375 www.pineboxbar.com
Anthony’s HomePort $$, Seafood 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 425.252.3333 www.anthonys.com
STANWOOD Stanwood Grill $$, American 289 FEET FROM STATION 360.629.5253 www.stanwoodgrill.com
MOUNT VERNON Skagit River Brewery $$, Brewpub 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.336.2884 www.skagitbrew.com
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Eat + Stay + Play Coast Wenatchee Center Hotel Wenatchee 133 MILES FROM STATION 509.662.1234 www.coasthotels.com Courtyard by Marriott Seattle North 5.3 MILES FROM STATION 425.670.0500 www.marriott.com
EVERETT Holiday Inn Downtown Everett 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 425.339.2000 www.ihg.com OUR PICK Inn at Port Gardner 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 425.252.6779 www.innatportgardner.com
STANWOOD Greenlake Guest House, Seattle, Washington
KELSO/LONGVIEW
TACOMA
Monticello Hotel 2.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.425.9900 www.themonticello.net
Hotel Murano 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 253.238.8000 www.hotelmuranotacoma.com
CENTRALIA
Silver Cloud Inn - Tacoma Waterfront 3.9 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.1300 www.silvercloud.com
Centralia Square Hotel 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.807.1212 www.centraliasquare.com McMenamins—Olympic Club Hotel & Theater 0.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.5164 www.mcmenamins.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY The Governor, a Coast Hotel 7.9 MILES FROM STATION 360.352.7700 www.coasthotels.com
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TUKWILA Cedarbrook Lodge SeaTac 4.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.901.9268 www.cedarbrooklodge.com Springhill Suites Renton 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 425.226.4100 www.marriott.com
Coast Bellevue Hotel Bellevue 11.6 MILES FROM STATION 425.455.9444 www.coasthotels.com Coast Gateway Hotel SeaTac 13.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.248.8200 www.coasthotels.com Greenlake Guest House 7.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.729.8700 www.greenlakeguesthouse.com Hotel 1000 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.957.1000 www.hotel1000seattle.com Hotel Monaco 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.621.1770 www.monaco-seattle.com
Little Creek Casino Resort 20.6 MILES FROM STATION 800.667.7711 www.little-creek.com
Alexis Hotel 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.624.4844 www.alexishotel.com
Grand Hyatt Seattle 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.774.1234 www.seattle.grand.hyatt.com OUR PICK
Red Lion Hotel 8 MILES FROM STATION 360.943.4000 www.redlion.com
Belltown Inn 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.529.3700 www.belltown-inn.com
Inn at the Market 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.448.0631 www.innatthemarket.com
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SEATTLE
The Maxwell Hotel 2.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.286.0629 www.themaxwellhotel.com The Moore Hotel 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.448.4851 www.moorehotel.com The Paramount Hotel 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.292.9500 www.paramounthotel seattle.com Seattle Sheraton 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.621.9000 www.sheratonseattle.com
Cedar Bluff Cottage 5.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.445.3333 www.cedarbluffcottage.com Hotel Stanwood 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 360.629.2888 www.stanwoodhotelsaloon.com
MOUNT VERNON Best Western Plus Skagit Valley Inn 1.9 MILES FROM STATION 360.428.5678 www.book.bestwestern.com Tulip Inn 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 800.599.5696 www.tulipinn.net
BELLINGHAM
Sorrento Hotel 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.622.6400 www.hotelsorrento.com
The Chrysalis Inn & Spa 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.756.1005 www.thechrysalisinn.com
EDMONDS
Fairhaven Village Inn 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.733.1311 www.fairhavenvillageinn.com
Best Western Plus Edmonds Harbor Inn 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 425.771.5021 www.book.bestwestern.com
Hotel Bellwether 4 MILES FROM STATION 360.392.3100 www.hotelbellwether.com
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Guide
Eat + Stay + Play VANCOUVER Kiggins Theatre 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.816.0352 www.kigginstheatre.net
KELSO/LONGVIEW Cowlitz County Tourism Visit Mount St. Helens 360.577.3137 www.visitmtsthelens.com Kelso Theater Pub 0.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.414.9451 www.ktpub.com
CENTRALIA Centralia Factory Outlets 2.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.3327 www.centraliafactory outlet.com Centralia Fox Theatre 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.623.1103 www.centraliafoxtheatre.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY Capitol Tours 7.5 MILES FROM STATION 360.902.8880 www.des.wa.gov Little Creek Casino Resort Shelton 20.6 MILES FROM STATION 800.667.7711 www.little-creek.com
Rhythm & Rye 7.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.705.0760 www.facebook.com/ rhythmandrye
TACOMA LeMay—America’s Car Museum 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 253.779.8490 www.americascarmuseum.org Museum of Glass 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 253.284.4750 www.museumofglass.org OUR PICK Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium 7.4 MILES FROM STATION 253.591.5337 www.pdza.org
SEATTLE Bellevue Arts Museum Bellevue 10.7 MILES FROM STATION 425.519.0770 www.bellevuearts.org Chihuly Garden and Glass 2.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.753.4940 www.chihulygardenand glass.com Museum of History and Industry 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.324.1126 www.mohai.org Neptune Theatre 4.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.682.1414 www.stgpresents.org
Tacoma Art Museum 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.4258 www.tacomaartmuseum.org
Northwest Outdoor Center 3.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.281.9694 www.nwoc.com
Washington State History Museum 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.3500 www.washingtonhistory.org
Olympic Sculpture Park 2 MILES FROM STATION 206.654.3100 www.seattleartmuseum.org OUR PICK
TUKWILA
Pike Place Market 1.4 MILES FROM STATION www.pikeplacemarket.org
Museum of Flight 5.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.764.5720 www.museumofflight.org
Seattle Aquarium 1 MILE FROM STATION 206.386.4300 www.seattleaquarium.org
Chihuly Garden and Glass, Seattle, Washington
Seattle Art Museum 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.654.3100 www.seattleartmuseum.org
Mount Baker Theatre 3.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.734.6080 www.mountbakertheatre.com
Woodland Park Zoo 5.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.548.2500 www.zoo.org
Whatcom Museum 3.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.778.8930 www.whatcommuseum.org
EDMONDS Cascadia Art Museum 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 425.336.4809 www.cascadiaartmuseum.org Edmonds Center for the Arts 0.6 MILES FROM STATION 425.275.4485 www.edmondscenterforthe arts.com Visit Edmonds 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 1.877.775.6935 www.visitedmonds.com
EVERETT Future of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour Mukilteo 8 MILES FROM STATION 1.800.464.1476 www.futureofflight.org XFINITY Arena at Everett 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 425.322.2600 www.xfinityarenaeverett.com
STANWOOD Stanwood Cinemas 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 360.629.0514 www.faraway entertainment.com
MOUNT VERNON Downtown Mount Vernon 360.336.3801 www.mountvernon downtown.org Lincoln Theatre 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.336.8955 www.lincolntheatre.org
BELLINGHAM Bellingham Railway Museum 3.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.393.7540 www.bellinghamrailway museum.org www.ontrakmag.com
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Eat + Stay + Play
Vancouver Guide
Fable Kitchen $$, Canadian 4.4 KM FROM STATION 604.732.1322 www.fablekitchen.ca
Novo Pizzeria & Wine Bar $$, Italian, Wine 4 KM FROM STATION 604.736.2220 www.novopizzeria.com
The Fat Badger $$, British 3.4 KM FROM STATION 604.336.5577 www.fatbadger.ca
The Oakwood Canadian Bistro $$, Gastropub, Canadian 5.6 KM FROM STATION 604.558.1965 www.theoakwood.ca
The Flying Pig $$, Canadian MULTIPLE LOCATIONS www.theflyingpigvan.com Forty Ninth Parallel Café & Lucky’s Doughnuts $, Coffee, Donuts 1.8 KM FROM STATION 604.872.4901 www.49thparallelroasters.com www.luckysdoughnuts.com Jules $$, French 1.7 KM FROM STATION 604.669.0033 www.julesbistro.ca The Keefer Bar $$$, Cocktails, Asian Small Plates 850 METERS FROM STATION 604.688.1961 www.thekeeferbar.com Kintaro Ramen $, Asian 3.8 KM FROM STATION 604.682.7568
Chambar, Vancouver, BC
Ask for Luigi $$, Italian 1.4 KM FROM STATION 604.428.2544 www.askforluigi.com OUR PICK
Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar $$$, Seafood, Steakhouse 2.6 KM FROM STATION 604.642.2900 www.boulevardvancouver.ca
Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie $$$, Chinese 850 METERS FROM STATION 604.688.0876 www.bao-bei.ca
Café at John Henry’s $$, American 115 KM FROM STATION 604.883.2336 www.johnhenrysresort marina.com
Blue Water Cafe $$, Seafood 2.3 KM FROM STATION
Chambar $$$, Belgian, Breakfast 1.4 KM FROM STATION 604.879.7119 www.chambar.com
604.688.8078
www.bluewatercafe.net
Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill & Enoteca $$$$, Mediterranean, Italian 2.3 KM FROM STATION 604.688.7466 www.cioppinosyaletown.com Cuchillo $$, Latin American 1.2 KM FROM STATION 604.559.7585 www.cuchillo.ca The Diamond $$, Mexican 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.568.8272 www.di6mond.com
Kirin $$, Seafood, Dim Sum MULTIPLE LOCATIONS www.kirinrestaurants.com L’Abattoir $$$, French, Canadian 1.4 KM FROM STATION 604.568.1701 www.labattoir.ca Lighthouse Pub $$, Gastropub 70.1 KM FROM STATION 604.885.9494 www.lighthousepub.ca
Octopus’ Garden $$$, Japanese, Sushi 4.5 KM FROM STATION 604.734.8971 www.octopusgardensada.com Opus Bar $$, Cocktails, Small Plates, Breakfast 2.2 KM FROM STATION 604.642.2107 www.opushotel.com Salt Tasting Room $$, Wine, Tapas, Small Plates 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.633.1912 www.salttastingroom.com Sal y Limon $, Mexican 2.4 KM FROM STATION 604.677.4247 www.salylimon.ca OUR PICK Savary Island Pie Company $$, Bakery, Coffee 10.6 KM FROM STATION 604.926.4021 www.savaryislandpie company.com Wildebeest $$$, Gastropub, Canadian 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.687.6880 www.wildebeest.ca Yaletown Brewing Co. $$, Brewpub 2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.681.2739 www.mjg.ca
Marutama Ramen $$, Asian 3.6 KM FROM STATION 604.688.8837 www.marutamaramen.com Molly’s Reach $$, American, Seafood 47 KM FROM STATION 604.886.9710 www.mollysreach.ca
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Guide
Eat + Stay + Play Auberge Vancouver Hotel 2.6 KM FROM STATION 604.678.8899 www.aubergevancouver.com
English Bay Inn 5 KM FROM STATION 604.683.8002 www.englishbayinn.com
Granville Island Hotel 4.4 KM FROM STATION 604.683.7373 www.granvilleislandhotel.com
Barclay House 3.5 KM FROM STATION 604.605.1351 www.barclayhouse.com
Executive Hotel LeSoleil 2.2 KM FROM STATION 604.632.3000 www.hotellesoleil.com
Hotel at the Waldorf 3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.253.7141 www.hotelatthewaldorf.ca
Bee & Thistle Guest House 3.3 KM FROM STATION 604.669.0715 www.beeandthistle.ca OUR PICK
Executive Hotel Vintage Park 2.9 KM FROM STATION 1.800.570.3932 www.executivehotels.net
Hotel Blue Horizon 2.9 KM FROM STATION 604.688.1411 www.bluehorizonhotel.com
The Burrard 2.9 KM FROM STATION 604.681.2331 www.theburrard.com
Fairmont Chateau Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION 604.938.8000 www.fairmont.com
Coast Coal Harbour Hotel 2.7 KM FROM STATION 604.697.0202 www.coasthotels.com Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites 4.2 KM FROM STATION 604.688.7711 www.coasthotels.com Coast Vancouver Airport Hotel 9.3 KM FROM STATION 604.263.1555 www.coasthotels.com
Georgian Court Hotel 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.682.5555 www.georgiancourthotel vancouver.com Granville House B&B 6.3 KM FROM STATION 604.739.9002 www.granvillebb.com
The Kingston Hotel 2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.684.9024 www.kingstonhotel vancouver.com The Landis Hotel & Suites 3 KM FROM STATION 604.681.3555 www.landissuites vancouver.com L’Hermitage Hotel 2 KM FROM STATION 778.327.4100 www.lhermitage vancouver.com The Listel Hotel 3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.684.7092 www.thelistelhotel.com
The Riviera on Robson Suites Hotel 3.2 KM FROM STATION 604.685.1301 www.rivieravancouver.com Rosewood Hotel Georgia 2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.682.5566 www.rosewoodhotels.com St. Clair Hotel - Hostel 1.8 KM FROM STATION 604.648.3713 www.stclairvancouver.com Summit Lodge & Spa Whistler Whistler 132 KM FROM STATION 604.932.2778 www.summitlodge.com The Sylvia Hotel 4.3 KM FROM STATION 604.681.9321 www.sylviahotel.com Victorian Hotel 1.7 KM FROM STATION 604.681.6369 www.victorianhotel.ca Wedgewood Hotel & Spa 2.4 KM FROM STATION 604.689.7777 www.wedgewoodhotel.com
Loden Hotel 3.4 KM FROM STATION 877.225.6336 www.theloden.com Moon Dance Vacation Rentals 107 KM FROM STATION 604.841.5805 www.moondance.travel OUR PICK OPUS Vancouver 2.2 KM FROM STATION 604.642.6787 www.opushotel.com The Painted Boat Resort Spa & Marina 101 KM FROM STATION 604.883.2456 www.paintedboat.com Patricia Hotel 1.2 KM FROM STATION 604.255.4301 www.patriciahotel.ca
Victorian Hotel, Vancouver, BC www.ontrakmag.com
Pinnacle Hotel Vanoucver Harbourfront 3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.689.9211 www.pinnacleharbour fronthotel.com
Email Statehood Media to get listed in our guides: jenny@statehoodmedia.com
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Eat + Stay + Play Bau-Xi Gallery Contemporary Fine Art 4.3 KM FROM STATION 604.733.7011 www.bau-xi.com Beaty Biodiversity Museum 14.2 KM FROM STATION 604.827.4955 www.beatymuseum.ubc.ca Bloedel Floral Conservatory 5.9 KM FROM STATION 604.257.8584 www.vancouver.ca Capilano Suspension Bridge Park 10.7 KM FROM STATION 604.985.7474 www.capbridge.com Craigdarroch Castle Victoria 115 KM FROM STATION 250.592.5323 www.thecastle.ca
Granville Island 4.1 KM FROM STATION 604.666.6655 www.granvilleisland.com Greater Vancouver Zoo 53.3 KM FROM STATION 604.856.6825 www.gvzoo.com Grotto Spa at Tigh-Na-Mara Parksville 111 KM FROM STATION 250.248.1838 www.grottospa.com H.R. MacMillan Space Centre 4.9 KM FROM STATION 604.738.7827 www.spacecentre.ca Museum of Vancouver 4.8 KM FROM STATION 604.736.4431 www.museumofvancouver.ca The Orpheum 2.8 KM FROM STATION 604.665.3050 www.vancouver.ca Peak 2 Peak Gondola Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION 1.888.403.4727 www.whistlerblackcomb.com
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Amy McDermid
Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden 1.2 KM FROM STATION 604.662.3207 www.vancouverchinese garden.com
Peak 2 Peak Gondola, Vancouver, BC
Pirate Adventures 4.1 KM FROM STATION 604.754.7535 www.pirateadventures.ca Queen Elizabeth Theatre 1.6 KM FROM STATION 604.665.3050 www.vancouver.ca OUR PICK Richmond Olympic Oval Richmond 14 KM FROM STATION 778.296.1400 www.richmondoval.ca River Rock Casino Resort Richmond 12.2 KM FROM STATION 877.473.8900 www.riverrock.com Robson Street 2.8 KM FROM STATION 604.669.8132 www.robsonstreet.ca Rockwood Adventures 7.4 KM FROM STATION 604.913.1621 www.rockwoodadventures.com
OUR PICK Rogers Arena 2 KM FROM STATION 604.899.7400 www.rogersarena.com Science World at TELUS World of Science 400 METERS FROM STATION 604.443.7440 www.scienceworld.ca
Vancouver Maritime Museum 4.8 KM FROM STATION 604.257.8300 www.vancouvermaritime museum.com Whistler Blackcomb Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION 1.800.766.0449 www.whistlerblackcomb.com
Skookumchuck Narrows Provincial Park 129 KM FROM STATION 604.885.3714
www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks Vancouver Art Gallery 2.3 KM FROM STATION 604.662.4700 www.vanartgallery.bc.ca Vancouver Aquarium 6.3 KM FROM STATION 604.659.3474 www.vanaqua.org
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EXP
SURE
Photo Contest
Soaking in the view of beautiful Panther Creek Falls in Washington. PHOTO BY AUTUMN BROWN Send us a photo that represents your experience of the Pacific Northwest for a chance to be published here.
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VANCOUVER, BC
AMTRAK CASCADES STOPS Vancouver, BC
Bellingham
Dress-maker Gaby Bayona page 14
Mount Vernon Stanwood Everett Edmonds Seattle
Tukwila
Bite of Seattle food festival page 44
Tacoma Olympia/Lacey
Centralia
Kelso/Longview
Portland
Vancouver, WA Oregon City
Salem Albany
Oregon Ballet Theatre’s Xuan Cheng page 26
Eugene
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SEATTLE
TACOMA
OLYMPIA
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PORTLAND
SALEM
EUGENE
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Draft Environmental Impact Statement Released For several years, the Oregon Department of Transportation has studied ways to improve inter-city passenger rail service between the Portland urban area and the Eugene-Springfield urban area. We have reached an important milestone with the release of the Draft Environmental Impact Statement (DEIS) on Oct. 19, 2018. You can find the DEIS and learn about ways to review it at: www.oregonpassengerrail.org.
The DEIS describes why the project is being proposed and the project’s alternatives. It examines the potential social, economic and environmental impacts of those alternatives. The “build” alternatives in the DEIS would accommodate increased passenger rail service. • Alternative 1 follows the existing Amtrak Cascades passenger rail route. It proposes track, signal and communication improvements. • Alternative 2 is primarily a new route between Springfield and Oregon City located along Interstate 5, an existing freight rail line and Interstate 205. It would follow the existing rail route north of Oregon City. ODOT and the Federal Railroad Administration (FRA) have identified Alternative 1 as the Preferred Alternative. ODOT hosted public open houses and public hearings throughout the project area in late November and early December and accepted public comments through December 18. Next up, ODOT will review and consider public comment. In 2019, it will select the final preferred alternative and complete a final environmental impact statement and respond to public comment.
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Parting Shot
STANLEY PARK VANCOUVER, BC Stanley Park is Vancouver’s biggest public park. It’s also the city’s first park, created in 1886. PHOTO COURTESY OF TOURISM VANCOUVER/BARBERSHOP FILMS
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WINTER 2019
PORT TOWNSEND ON THE HALF SHELL
GABY BAYONA
DESIGNER EXTRAORDINAIRE
INTERNATIONAL FARE IN THE PDX SUBURBS
WINTER 2019
Foodie TOP
THE FOODIE ISSUE
DESTINATIONS
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS
BEST FESTIVALS WHERE TO LEARN
TAKE U WITH S YOU
Comp Amtra liments of k Cas cades ® Ontrakmag.com
PICTURED HERE: Le Pigeon’s seared Idaho trout
adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak CascadesR route