Western 4W Driver Magazine Spring 2021 (#119) by Vanguard Publishing Perth

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119th EDITION Spring 2021

11 days bogged

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WESTERN 4W DRIVER 119th EDITION Spring 2021

in the gascoyne

FLYING HIGH OVER THE KIMBERLEY

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CONTENTS

EDITION 119 SPRING 2021

ADVENTURES 11 Days Bogged in the Gascoyne

The story of Terry and Barb's ordeal that could happen to anyone ........................................... 6

Exploring Paynes Find

Jon's latest adventure to the WA outback ................................................................................................................................ 12

A Beating Heart

Grant and Linda take us along the Red Centre Way .......................................................................................... 30

Stumpy - Beaten by the CSR

Phil talks to Geoff Lewis about his trip along the CSR in his Series 3 1975 Land Rover ................................................................................................................................... 40

Flying High Over the Kimberley

Grant and Linda share their tips on seeing the Kimberley from the sky......................... 50

A Trail of Gold

Geoff's adventure along the Holland Track ......................................................................................................................... 66

Peedamulla Campground

Chris discovers a WA gem ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 74

Gathering of the Clans

Easter at Narloo........................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 78

South West Wanderings

Karl heads south to Augusta ............................................................................................................................................................................ 88

Western 4W Driver #119

FEATURES Mitsubishi Pajero

Built for adventure ........................................................................ 20

Vehicle Recovery

How to get out of a bog ..................................................... 60

Lenny the LandCruiser

The obsession continues ................................................. 84

My 4WD My Story

REGULARS 4Thought

........................................................................................................

Bush Mechanics NEW! ............................................ 119 Over the Bonnet ..................................................................... 121 What's in a Name

...............................................................

The Things You See Bindon's Lore

123

......................................................

126

...............................................................................

129

Let's Go Geo-Touring Outback Survival

.................................................

133

.................................................................

144

Giordan's Nissan Patrol ...................................................... 94

Fishy Business .......................................................................... 147 Women in 4W Driving ................................................ 151

Superior Night Vision

Gear to Go Camping

Bushranger 4X4 Night Hawk review ....... 101

Living with Crocodiles

One of the world's greatest survivors .. 104

Enhanced Vision

Product review ................................................................................... 111

Book review

Fire to Fork ................................................................................................ 113

A Great Night's Sleep

OzTent product review ........................................................ 114

Transchill Transmission Oil Cooler Kits Advertorial ................................... 116 Crystal Clear Sound

Product review ................................................................................. 169

...................................................

153

Clewed Up .......................................................................................... 156 Fire Cooking ..................................................................................... 161 Track Care WA News 4WD Club Focus

.................................................

164

..................................................................

165

The People We Meet Goings On

..................................................

170

............................................................................................

172

Capture the Moment

..................................................

175

The Travelling Photographer

..................

177

Photography Tips and Tricks

..................

178

.....................................................................................

179

Art of 4WDs

Now We're TAWKing!

................................................

180

...........................................................

185

...............................................................................

188

Are We There Yet? Subscriptions

Keep me handy! Silly Snaps

.....................................................................

189

..........................................................................................

190

Supplier Directory

............................................................

191

Western 4W Driver #119

MAGAZINE Premium Publishers ABN 70 616 133 870 26 John Street, Northbridge WA 6003 PO Box 50, Northbridge WA 6865 Phone: (08) 9291 8303 admin@western4wdriver.com.au www.western4wdriver.com.au

COVER PHOTO COMPETITION

lations! CongratuJordan Broun

Editors Chris and Karen Morton Advertising Chris Morton Natalie Du Preez Graphic Design Karen Morton Administration Chris Morton Steve Larcombe Christine Arnasiewicz Printing Vanguard Press

Chris presenting Jordan with his prize of a Hema HX-1 Navigator.

Thank you to everyone who sent in photo entries.

Disclaimer: The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Premium Publishers or the editors but those of the authors who accept sole responsibility and liability for them. While every care is taken with images and photographs, and all other material submitted, Premium Publishers accepts no liability for loss or damage. Premium Publishers reserves the right to amend publication schedules and frequencies. Edition 119 Spring 2021

Western 4W Driver #119

For your chance to win a Hema Maps prize pack, check out page 112 for competition details.

4 THOUGHT

TAKE A MOMENT

uicker than a LandCruiser heading up the North West Coastal Highway, the last three months have flown by. We have existed in a world dominated by COVID lockdowns, the Olympics and a deluge of holiday pics from up north. We were lucky enough to be commissioned by a client to spend two weeks travelling through the Pilbara along the Warlu Way before turning around only a month later and exploring the Pilbara again, collecting more content for future publications. During both trips, we got to see some country that we had not been into before as well as revisit some old favourites. However, regardless of where we were, we managed to always run into subscribers, casual readers of the magazine, friends, friends of the family and friends who know us through their second cousin on their mother’s side. It is these interactions that really make our trips memorable. Having a yarn with someone, standing in the shade, alongside a remote gorge or waterway really does make our day. It was during one of these encounters, standing on the edge of the creek at Skull Springs, that I was chatting to a bloke from Broome by the name of John. After some initial awkwardness whereby John thought I was trying to give him some religious literature, he gratefully accepted a couple of copies of Western 4W Driver to share with his mate, who had flown up from Perth. Introducing people to the world of the fourby is one of the things I do enjoy about this job. After a bit more of a chat, we left John and his mate at their very scenic campsite on the edge of the water and headed back out the track for Nullagine. Fast forward almost a month and in the

with CHRIS MORTON mail, we received a subscription from John and a handwritten note. This is why I love my job.

As I write this, nearly the entire country is back in lockdown, with this latest round of measures potentially pushing many businesses over the edge. A social media campaign that recently popped up encouraged people to pre-buy a meal from their local pub or restaurant that they could cash in later when restrictions eased. Here in WA, we are fortunate, however tourism businesses are suffering due to the dramatic drop in interstate and overseas tourists. When planning your next trip away, think about maybe jumping on a tour or going out for dinner instead of cooking something at your campsite. You could do some of your food shopping closer to your destination instead of stocking up before you leave. As avid 4W drivers and tourers, we can make a small difference to businesses that we come across during our travels. Every extra dollar these businesses can earn will make a difference. We hope you enjoy this latest edition of Western 4W Driver. Take care out there and look after each other. Western 4W Driver #119

11 DAYS

BOGGED

in the Gascoyne By Terry and Barb Stone Gelorup, WA. Selcall 0168

Western 4W Driver #119

Even with modern vehicles and equipment and with information from orbiting satellites, mother nature still has a way of throwing a spanner in the works when you least expect it. The story of Terry and Barbara’s ordeal is one that could happen to anyone. Their story had a happy ending as they were well provisioned and equipped for remote travel. They did not panic and they took their predicament in their stride. It reinforces the need to ensure that you have adequate means of communication and know how to use it.

Thursday, May 27, 2021 Packed up and heading north. Plan to arrive in Broome around the 7th of June. There are a couple of historic sites that we want to explore on the way, so the plan is to travel along the Carnarvon-Mullewa Road from Murchison Roadhouse. We have contacted the Shire of Murchison to check on road conditions in the area. Stopped for the night at the Wilroy Nature Reserve on the Wubin-Mullewa Road. Great spot and a very pleasant evening.

Friday, May 28, 2021 Passed through Mullewa and stopped at the Murchison Oasis Roadhouse. Had a good look through the museum (which is run by volunteers) and asked the staff about road conditions further up the CarnarvonMullewa Road. They showed us the BOM website. Entire north west looks clear. We are going to look for a suitable site further up the road to spend the night. Found a spot mid-afternoon, after following someone else’s tyre tracks into the bush a short distance. Great little spot where we set up camp. Very balmy night.

Saturday, May 29, 2021 (Day 1) All hell has broken loose. At about 5.15am the heavens opened, unleashing thunder, lightning and torrential rain. By midmorning there was no sign of letting up and we decided we needed to get moving and out of this weather. We had no idea of the predicament we were about to get into. As soon as we started to move the vehicle, we knew we were in trouble. The ground was incredibly boggy from the continuous rain. Multiple attempts to winch, dropping tyre pressures and digging was getting us nowhere. By 4.00pm we made the decision to winch the vehicle back onto some high ground and re-assess in the morning. We knew we were only about 200m from the main road and despite six hours of effort, we could still clearly see where we had camped last night. Western 4W Driver #119

Barb went for a walk towards the main road and found the track we originally came in on (with water everywhere we had lost visual sight of our tracks) and the car was now immobile, pointing the wrong way.

Sunday, May 30, 2021 (Day 2) Last night was miserable. Cold and wet, we were forced to sleep sitting up in the front of the ute. Torrential rain continued to fall throughout the night and attempts to get out of the car ended up with us sliding in the mud. Terry was making a list of things that he wished he had brought. Maxtrax was the only item. We vowed that when we got out of this situation, the first thing we were going to buy was a set of them (we didn’t have any sort of recovery board with us).

With the break of dawn, we realised that we were surrounded by water as far as the eye could see. Our original camp was still visible in the distance and as it was on higher ground, we made the decision to carry our camping gear back to it and set up. This would give us somewhere dry to sleep. This is going to be a wait it out situation until the ground dries out enough to allow us to drive out. With nothing else to do, we explored around us, re-visiting the original track that we had driven in on. We realised that if we had taken this track out on Saturday, before we became bogged, we would have most likely made it out. Now it was unrecognisable. Wading through the water was like something out of a movie, with trees sticking out of the water and a mist rising through the canopies. Very eerie. Terry placed a stick next to the car to measure the highwater mark, allowing us to observe any changes in the water level over the coming days. By staying put we knew that we couldn’t make it any worse and that we would get out, eventually. We just didn’t know how long that was going to take.

Western 4W Driver #119

Monday, May 31, 2021 (Day 3) We spent the day getting gear out of the car, readjusting the solar panels and walking out to the main road. Most of the time we were bare-footed as shoes and thongs acted like suction cups in the sticky mud. Despite our situation we were very lucky. There was plenty of cleared ground around us and more importantly, plenty of firewood. Wildlife was everywhere with birds and small lizards everywhere we looked and insects which mimicked the colours around us. The car is equipped with a large water tank, and we had plenty of supplemental water. We were carrying plenty of food and we had even stocked up on citrus fruit at a roadside stall when we had passed through Bindoon a couple of days earlier. We were within earshot of the main road, but it was not visible. The last car that we had heard was on Saturday morning, leading us to believe that the road had been closed. Without any mobile coverage we couldn’t be sure. With plenty of water around us we did our washing in it, by just throwing it in and dragging it around a bit and tossing them on a tree to dry. Likewise for cleaning ourselves.

Tuesday, June 1, 2021 (Day 4) Much to our excitement and surprise, the lake where the car was had diminished, but the ground was still saturated and muddy, so we started pacing ourselves for when we thought we may be able to drive the car out and back to the original camp. We came up with the idea over the next few days of how we could plot the car out. Toilet paper! Marking a path on tree branches that looked like it had the best potential.

Thursday, June 3, 2021 (Day 6) Today was the day! This afternoon Terry managed to ease the car out and back to camp, so that felt like that was a bit of a victory.

At some stage we had decided we had better let our son know what was happening, as we thought we may have to cancel some of our accommodation in Broome in case we are late. No phone reception, fortunately though we have a HF radio in the car, and we are members of the VKS 737 network. Made contact with VKS to let them know our situation and have messages relayed to others. We passed our GPS location onto them and a message relayed through to our son in Broome and our friend Frank. Frank is also a member of the VKS network from down south, selcall 2622. Thursday afternoon, as we were walking through the bush to a waterhole to wash our feet, we heard someone call out. Much Western 4W Driver #119

to our surprise there were two men walking towards us. They introduced themselves as station owner Andrew and one of his offsiders Wayne. They had been advised of our location by our son in Broome. He had contacted the station owner and asked if he could go and find us. He was that concerned that he said he was willing to pay for a chopper to find us. From that point on, Andrew and his team made it a priority to try and get us out. Andrew offered food, water and beer if we needed it. We were fine though, we weren’t lost, we were comfortable, had plenty of food and water, we were just stuck.

Friday, June 4, 2021 (Day 7) Andrew, Wayne and Peter came out and brought heavy duty bog mats and winch extension straps to use. After about three hours of continual winching we decided to give it a rest for the day and try again the following morning. We kept regular contact with VKS throughout this time, keeping them informed of our current situation. They

Western 4W Driver #119

were so worried about us that they made it a priority to relay our messages across the network. They included us in the daily scheduled calls, just in case we needed extra assistance.

Saturday, June 5, 2021 (Day 8) More digging and winching, with pretty much the same result. After three hours with numerous breaks in the winch cable, our one and only shovel breaking and being repaired, it was decided to give it a break and wait a few more days. No further rain was forecast until next Thursday. We knew we had to be out by then. Andrew offered to put us up at his station, but we decided we wanted to stay in the tent with the car.

Sunday, June 6, 2021 (Day 9) We spent today trying to free up all the ground under the car. There was a huge amount of mud that had wedged itself everywhere underneath the car putting more stress on the diff and shockies etc. almost acting like a grader blade in the mud.

We had a message from our friend Frank on the HF radio to let us know rain was now forecast for Tuesday.

Monday, June 7, 2021 (Day 10) VKS 737 confirmed the updated forecast. We are still their number one priority, with regular contact and support and asking if there was anything further they could do. Station hand Peter came out to help us try winching out again. Still stuck.

Tuesday, June 8, 2021 (Day 11) We must get out today. The weather is starting to close in on us again. The wind had been howling all night. We got up at 5.00am in the dark, lit a fire, packed fiddly things in the car, leaving the tent up etc., If we don’t get out before the rain comes today then the car will be staying here indefinitely and that would be the end of our trip. After an hour of winching Terry managed to pull the car onto slightly firmer ground. Barb was walking alongside as the spotter and dragging the bog mats forward. As he eased it onto firmer ground, he kept in first gear low range and kept up the momentum. In minutes he managed to drive the car out, following the path we had meticulously plotted out over days and days. As he reached the road he sounded the horn. We were out. With the car now parked on the side of the road, we raced back to our camp. We still needed to pack it up and get the gear back to the car. It was hard work carrying it across hundreds of metres of waterlogged ground.

of our car. Many people had never heard of HF radio or the range that they had. We took these opportunities to educate them about the VKLS network. We must give a huge thanks to Tony from VKS Alice Springs (Base) and all the other operators across Australia. As volunteers, they do an amazing job, linking remote travellers across Australia and providing vital communications and assistance where there would otherwise be none.

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As soon as we had finished packing the car and climbed back in, the rain started to fall. We had made it, just in the nick of time. After a quick detour to Byro Station homestead to say thanks to Andrew and his team, we turned back north to continue our trip. Quite often, at each stop, we would be asked about the large aerial on the back Western 4W Driver #119

g n i r o l p Ex

Paynes Find By Jon Love

Beginning our ascent to the top of Mount Singleton.

Western 4W Driver #119

Twenty minutes into our latest adventure to the WA outback, we were cruising along the Tonkin Highway not far from home when disaster struck. It didn’t take long for a mechanical issue to rear its ugly head, forcing us to pull over and start diagnosing the issue.

Excerpt from Hema’s WA State map.

urns out the differential on the Defender was on its last legs and caved on the journey outward. As unfortunate as it was to start the journey this way, it was a blessing in disguise. Being so close to home we were able to tow it back to the garage, saving us a headache had it happened when we were more remote. Fortunately for our driving companions, they came from a Defender family and another one was waiting ready to go. We ended up rolling into camp around 1.00am not far from Wubin, and with the remnants of coffee still in our system a small fire was lit to lounge around before we called it a night. With our tanks filled and some brekky on the go from the Wubin servo, the convoy pressed on for its first destination, an area just south of Paynes Find called Ninghan Station. Pulling off the blacktop and onto the fine red dirt was a welcome sensation, with the sight of tall standing ranges sitting high off in the distance acting as a waypoint for the journey to come. As we pulled into the homestead area we had a chat with the station owners, who gave us an insight into the terrain and track conditions that lay ahead. Prior to our arrival a storm had rolled its way through the area, depositing a generous amount of water with it. This left track conditions in somewhat of a state, with flood plains completely covering generous portions of the track. With this information in hand and an uncontainable eagerness to explore the area, we set off from the homestead and made tracks for our first point of interest, Mount Singleton. Prior to this trip it had been eight long months since we last packed into the Troopy for an adventure, so the feeling of being back in the open country plains behind the wheel of the old girl was a much-needed sensation. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of being in the outback in remote parts of Western Australia to escape the concrete jungle that is Perth; but I digress, Mount Singleton! Western 4W Driver #119

With the evidence of recent downpours making itself obvious on the track toward the base of the climb, we knew the steeper sections going up would likely entail a bit of fun, challenging driving, particularly in sections with loose rock lying around. With the help of lowered tyre pressures and a careful line, the Loose rocks and a muddy surface. drive up proved to Making our way up to the top of Mt. Singleton. be a good bit of fun as expected, all the and presented us with the sight we’d been while made better with the views that chasing, and what a sight it was. Dangling accompanied it. As far as the eye could our legs over the rocks and looking out into see was the expanse of open plains and the distance made for a unique lunch time woodlands stretching off into the horizon, stop. Following this we continued exploring with the sheer size of Lake Moore becoming the area, taking the opportunity to scale the evident as we made our way to the top. As rock face to investigate the small caves that we crested the top of the mountain we lay beneath us. searched for an area to park up and explore on foot. With knowledge of a cliff face and With a bit of adventuring behind us and an a breathtaking view, we were keen to see equally enjoyable drive down the mountain what was on offer. Lunch in hand and a beer to come, we pressed on toward the cars for in the other, we set off through a dense the next area to visit. area of trees which eventually cleared up Heading deeper into the station on the hunt for our campsite, we started to see Looking back toward the cliff edge of Mount Singleton with Lake Moore in the background.

Western 4W Driver #119

Camped for the night in a quiet oasis.

the extent of water that had been left behind from the previous storm. Sections of the track often had long stretches of soft, muddy ruts, most of which were frequently covered by the pooling of water that had occurred over the top of them. Even further along the track we started coming across numerous water crossings varying in different sizes. A handful of them were over flood plains that had completely swallowed the dirt road, leaving small pickets as your indicators for direction while wading

through the water. Once more nothing too extreme or hard to handle, but adding a twist and a good bit of fun for the drive. Unfortunately however, due to the amount of rain that had come down, many tracks and points of interest that we intended to visit were closed due to track conditions and water levels, so a bit of tweaking was made to the trip planner. Adding insult to injury, rocking up to our first intended campsite for the night was one of those inaccessible locations, and with the evening growing late and the big orange ball in sky dipping lower, we were on the hunt for another destination. With a bit of backtracking we managed to find a quiet little oasis just off the track. Pulling in we jumped straight into setting up camp and getting the fire lit. With the bright glow of the sun making its final hurrah for the day, a beautiful orange glow was left The journey ahead with plenty of water around.

Western 4W Driver #119

A muddy convoy making its way through Ninghan Station.

shimmering off the rocks and trees around us. With a beef stew in the camp oven and the display of the Milky Way overhead, we reminisced on the past day and to the journey ahead, a fitting end to a long and adventurous day on the road. A new day and a new journey. Given many of our intended destinations were now no longer reachable, we decided to throw the original plan out the window and head elsewhere, more specifically to explore the Karara Rangeland Park. With the bacon on the crackle and a new plan laid out, we eventuated our way out of Ninghan Station and toward the Karara Rangeland, back over the muddy strips and through

the odd water crossing. Much of the initial drive toward the Karara Rangeland is done on a smooth gravel track that sweeps through the plains of green vegetation that is sporadically broken up by the peaks that appear in the distance. A few warning signs pop up about kangaroos crossing, but down the line we slowed down for a Bungarra that was happily taking its time to cross the road. We pulled over to help speed up his process to quickly usher him off the road, then it was back behind the wheel. There are a number of old stations that are scattered in this region of Western Australia, so stumbling across ruins and old remains always makes for an interesting visit. We managed to find our way into Not quite the cleanest wash for the underbody, but it’ll do!

Western 4W Driver #119

Out for a casual Saturday stroll. Waiting for the Bungarra to pass before giving a helping hand.

Warriedar Station, where much of the area is still in good condition. The house itself is tidy and provides relief from the barrage of the sun’s rays, so not a bad place to stop and stay for lunch or to have a break from driving. The icing on the cake has to be the well out the front of the house, pumping up cool fresh water from the hand pump, making for a refreshing face wash. The time came to push on and continue heading for our next campsite. Although we didn’t know exactly where we would be staying, we were keen to drive until somewhere stood out above the rest, all the while enjoying the journey there. Enjoying golden hour on our final night out bush.

Heading further west into the Rangeland we wound down a number of different tracks to source out the best spots, coming across a few peaks to climb and enjoy the view from, standing alongside and peering out to spot possible campsite contenders.

Once again, the day was starting to grow late and a day travelling on the road made us pretty keen to find a place to stay, but in the distance, we could see what had the potential to be the next gem. Back on the road and hopeful for some rest, we pulled up to the base of what would become a very unique and incredibly scenic campsite. Finally the time behind the wheel had paid off. The camp sat at the bottom of a large slab of rock standing tall above the vegetation below. A green shrub provided us with an almost lawn-like sensation, and in the distance was the view of the ranges and woodlands, much to the character of the region. To top it off, the colours during and after sunset were spectacularly vibrant, throwing shades of pink, blue and red into the sky.

Western 4W Driver #119

However, it wasn’t all sunshine and rainbows. Initially, upon arrival and set-up there was an abundance of midges flying around, relentlessly bugging us as we setup and prepped for the night. We set off on a walk up the rock to take in more of what the countryside had to offer, with a little bit of hope the midges would stay behind, but it was wishful thinking in the end. With some firewood collected the flames were lit, and as the evening got cooler the bugs began to disappear. Another spectacular day on the road was brought to a close with an even more spectacular display of colours on the horizon, and with a meal on the go and the warmth of the fire, it wasn’t long before we called it a night. The following day was kickstarted with a warm cup of coffee and a view from the rooftop tent that could be envied from anyone suffering from a lack of camping.

Sitting back enjoying a fire and the vibrant colours across the sky.

ExplThe Great

Much to our dismay however, it was our last day, with plans to head back home that afternoon. For the final time we packed away the gear and set off to explore the road leading back to the highway, which provided us with another abandoned homestead and an old cattle yard. It wasn’t long before we pulled over to air up, ready for the journey home, but not before enjoying a roadside lunch and kicking the footy around one last time; not a terrible way to end a trip if you ask me.

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Western 4W Driver #119

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Built for Adventure

Mitsubishi By Ray Cully

Mitsubishi’s Pajero has a highly respected legacy in world rally events, enjoying no less than a staggering 12 Dakar Rally wins. Its noteworthy achievements have generated a loyal following for this vehicle’s honest can-do attitude. 20

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n late 2006, Mitsubishi unveiled its fourth generation Pajero, the NS. It promised extra levels of comfort and on-road handling from its bold modern approach, refining the proven and sturdy, if unconventional, integrated chassis and body design carried over from the previous model, which remained a significant departure from the widely accepted practice of frame on ladder construction. With fully independent front and rear suspension, Mitsubishi had created a proper seven seat 4WD wagon with genuine off-road capability without the truck-like road manners of front and rear live axles found in many of its competition of the same era. But to survive, things must evolve and change. Sadly, the rate of evolution for the Pajero was like the erosion of rocky cliff faces hammered by prevailing winds. Competitors caught up and eventually surpassed the Pajero’s once advanced design. The lack of financial stability in the market, and slowly diminishing sales as younger generations embraced the trendy soft-roader option saw Mitsubishi struggle to justify the time, effort and cost for an all new Pajero. Instead, they have focused on the strength of the Pajero Sport as a genuine, highly capable 4WD.

Pajero

Taking the least path of resistance, Mitsubishi leveraged the original Pajero innovation but retained the same basic design for 14 years, offering incremental updates and cosmetic enhancement to generate renewed interest.

Alas, the Pajero gives its last hurrah in 2021 and it was with mixed emotions that I got behind the wheel of this piece of history; happiness as I got to drive the Pajero one last time, and sadness to see such a prominent family SUV slip away into the automotive history pages. Western 4W Driver #119

No matter from which angle you look at it, the Pajero is instantly recognisable. There’s no missing that low waistline, tall glass, bulbous wheel arches, pointed chin, or that humongous wheel cover on the rear. Fitted with 17-inch alloy rims wrapped in 265/65R17 Dunlop AT20 Grand Trek roadbiased tyres certainly limits the Pajero’s more adventurous side when escaping the black top. But I appreciated Mitsubishi including a hydraulic bottle jack in the vehicle. A tool that has multiple uses offroad, rather than a dubious lightweight, mechanical scissor jack. The factory alloy side steps incorporate small front mud flaps. It was good to see the larger rear ones were flexible to handle the bumps and scrapes when off-road, rather than the hard plastic style which are the first victims of a rock ledge closely followed by bending those decorative running boards. Large, moulded panels consume half the bottom of the doors creating a tapered ledge which extends around the vehicle 22

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to meet the wider wheel arches, with this theme following around the rear guards integrating with the back bumper. I’ll assume that these are much cheaper to replace than repairing a pin-striped door. The back bumper has a good-sized rear step built in and provides easy access to reach the contents of a roof rack. But I’m not convinced that huge spare wheel cover is anything more than a pacifier to the designers trying to add some style as it acts as a large catcher’s mitt for collecting red gravel dust and dirt. If you like retro, the clear glass taillights are a throwback to the late 90s. Open the door and on first impression the seats are so broad and firm with minimal bolstering, it’s like sitting on two cardboard boxes, with one vertical behind your back. But spend 30 minutes driving and you’ll discover it’s more like an oldstyle lounge chair. You don’t feel restricted and there’s plenty of shoulder and head room. I found them incredibly comfortable on longer drives.

After 100k’s on gravel, this is a wonderfully relaxed vehicle because of its roomy and airy interior. The dash has a low flat wide top you look down on rather than over, and the ergonomics of an interior that has almost remained unchanged in 14 years is still excellent. It’s easy to use, simple and almost bordering on retro with its dot matrix upper centre console display showing fuel consumption, distance to empty, elevation and a barometer! Nothing strikes you as premium or modern, but that’s what works so well. It gives you everything you need and nothing of what you don’t! There’s a large analogue tacho and speedo which can get a little hard to see in dazzling sunlight because of its soft blends of white and grey colouring. There’s a small display in the centre to show which driveline setting you’re in: 2WD, 4WDH, 4WDH-LC and 4WDL-LC. The centre stack has a 7-inch touch screen with Android Auto and Apple car play–both require USB cable for connection. There’s DAB Radio and Bluetooth for phone and audio. Underneath is the AC controls with proper 4WD-friendly, large, chunky rotary dials for temp and fan speeds with clearly marked buttons for the various modes, rear AC, feet, face, screen etc. Below that is a small cubby hole, but to the right is a credit card slot built into the dash which loads like the earlier CD players. It will hold up to three cards, great for parking, fuel or security access cards. The 60/40 split second-row seats have a shed-load of leg room, and the backrest can recline when needing extra comfort. As with most vehicles, the centre section won't win any awards on long trips and given the Pajero’s narrow cross width, three adults across the back will rub shoulders. Third row is tight for adults, but the kids will love it. Another aspect I liked about the Pajero’s design was the ease with which you can put the third row up or collapse everything into the rear floor out of the way, all from the back of the vehicle. Western 4W Driver #119

One of my favourite carry over features was the extension panels built into the sun visors. How often have you twisted the visor to the side to block the sun burning your cheeks, only to get coverage for your eye and nose, as your ear and neck get slowly roasted. Well, those clever little extensions go all the way to the B pillar. Nice - bring ‘em back everyone! But wait there’s more, the console’s lid doubles as a comfortable arm rest. It will slide forward and aft allowing taller and shorter drivers to find the perfect elbow support. Besides the large console, it has a good-sized glovebox, but no upper storage compartment. For convenience there’s an auto headlight switch, phone and audio controls with cruise settings on the steering wheel with a 12v outlet on the dash and inside the console, with dual USB and HDMI ports inside the glove box compartment. Plus, obligatory cup holders front and back. Solid grab handles on A-pillar and roof just above the front doors make getting in and out a breeze, while there are massive, long grab handles on the B-pillar, designed to allow kids and teenagers to pull themselves up easily before jumping into the third row of seats. These also double as a wonderful steadier for Nanna and Pop to hang onto as they place their foot on the large, flat internal step for access to the second-row seats. Plus, clothes hanger points so you

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can hang that cricket shirt up neatly to keep it crisp before the game. AC vents are in the roof for second and third row passengers with a single floor vent in the very back to pump warm air into the cabin on those frosty mornings. It's this attention to detail that you don’t often see which makes this such a comfortable and practical easy to live with family-focussed genuine 4WD wagon. But there are some small luxuries such as tilt and reach leather-bound steering wheel, gear lever and handbrake. Talk about a panoramic view! With a huge deep windscreen and a narrow bonnet that falls away at the front, you feel immersed in your surroundings. This is like getting the front seat on a tour bus - you get to see everything. I so enjoyed a lazy driving pace through picturesque gravel roads, cause at no stage does your vision feel restricted. That excellent visibility extends down both sides of the vehicle with deep glass. Looking out the rear quarter glass is easy, with a pretty decent view out the back slightly obscured by the easily removable head rests. Rear windows are a pop out design with small over centre latches, allowing the rear of the glass to open by about 25mm, ideal for improving air flow in the rear. It made me question modern driver assist systems such as blind spot monitoring and rear cross traffic alert. They certainly are

beneficial to driver safety, but are probably more a requirement to compensate for the restricted visibility in newer, more aesthetically pleasing body designs. Loading access to the rear is easy with the large opening door. With the third row flipped and folded forward into the floor, rear storage is an impressive 1,069L. Drop the second row and that increases to a cavernous 1,790L. What’s impressive is there’s just over a metre between the wheel arches. There’s tie down points in the rear corners, bottle holders recessed on the left-hand interior panel, plus a small

lidded storage compartment, and a 12v outlet on the driver’s side. Rear door internally has an access panel which uncovers a small shelf ideal for storing minor items when camping like matches, hand wipes or sunscreen. To the side is an access point for filling the rear washer bottle housed inside the rear door, rather than piping it from the bottle under the bonnet. It allows for carrying extra water for washing off dirty glass when off-road. Get out and amongst fellow commuters, and the Pajero feels solid but not so ponderous as to be awkward in traffic; its Western 4W Driver #119

mid-size provides easy manoeuvrability. Parking is a breeze thanks to that great visibility and a swing circle of just 11.4m, but it is big enough to avoid intimidation by larger vehicles. All told, the Pajero is easy to live within the city or suburbia. Driving on the open road and cruising at 110km/h, the Pajero settles into a relaxed state and will happily devour long distances. The Pajero glides along, it offers a good level of comfort and control, and it never gets unsettled by a pothole or road grid thanks to the suspension setup. The front has a double wishbone and coil combo while an independent multi-link design is at the rear, also running coils. Housing ventilated discs on each wheel, braking performance will confidently arrest the Pajero’s kerb weight of 2,315kg. There’s a payload of 715kg, including the tow ball weight. Interestingly, Mitsubishi stagger the tow ball capacity based on towing weight. Pulling the limit at 3,000kg, tow ball weight is only 180kg. However, reduce the van size to 2,500kg and tow ball weight is now 250kg. Whichever option you choose, it reduces your load capacity by the same amount.

"The Pajero glides along, it offers a good level of comfort and control, and it never gets unsettled by a pothole or road grid thanks to the suspension setup."

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To be honest, keeping the van weight around 2,500kg means you’re not pushing the Pajero to the edge of its capability, giving you more wiggle room should the tail try to wag the dog. As for the power plant, that 3.2L direct injection turbo oiler is a cracker. It feels punchy in traffic and will provide a willing push in the back from its 441Nm of torque @ 2,000rpm when needing to hustle past slower moving traffic. It's no stopwatch stunner with its peak power of 141kWs reached much higher in the range just under 4,000rpm. And nor is it whisper quiet if you stretch its legs, but it does what’s asked of it without complaint or grumble. Mitsubishi claim a drinking habit of 9.1L /100, but I didn’t see it. Perhaps it was my creative driving habits, but I averaged closer to mid-10s. With a tank capacity of 88L that’s still good for 800km with a little in reserve. Hook up the camper or caravan and that will obviously drop the numbers. Bolted up behind the block is a 5-speed auto with manual shift mode. It's neither fast on shifting, nor as refined as newer vehicles; but I couldn’t fault its performance.

High range, low range or sinking the boot to overtake, it acquitted each task as any good auto should. Getting twitchy behind the wheel, it was time to leave the pavement and have a little play in the dirt. As I mentioned earlier, the red dust collection tank on the rear didn’t impress me, but what did was the feeling of stability and confidence that you get from a fully independent suspension! Did I mention 12 Dakar wins? No, our Pajero wasn’t race prepared, and I didn’t have a group of eager technicians looking anxious whilst standing around in makeshift tents in the bush, eagerly waiting to tune, tinker or replace any component that wasn’t at its optimal best, when covering brutal broken ground at ludicrous speeds. This was your typical secondary gravel road that could be anywhere in Australia, with long straights, sweeping bends, corrugations, washouts, humps and large dips. Exactly what the average family will experience on holiday. To the Pajero’s credit this is where it comes into its own, with each wheel working independently

of the other and with significantly reduced unsprung weight there’s less tendency for small corrugations and bumps to disturb the vehicle’s composure, making for a more comfortable and controlled ride. Another benefit of the independent suspension is its better centreline ground clearance, with no low hanging diff housing to get snagged. With a wading depth of 700mm, an approach ramp over and departure angle of 36.6, 22.5 and 25 respectively, it has good ground clearance of 225mm. But there’s always a compromise. Moving into rocky trails, the independent suspension so well suited for on-road and gravel work showed its limitations. The Pajero’s Achilles heel was its wheel articulation and it was willing to lift a wheel too easily during offset dips and rises. That said, getting out and having a look to choose a better line will often achieve an acceptable result. The Pajero’s traction control system does a reasonable job over most challenges, but when extending wheels to the limit, lose contact with terra firma and it will struggle. By engaging the rear diff lock to distribute

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torque across both rear wheels, and applying gentle throttle to avoid excessive strain on one axle, the Pajero will crawl through most obstacles given sufficient ground clearance. This is where investing in more appropriate rubber will pay dividends for better traction and greater durability in the bush. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, Mitsubishi’s Super Select 4WD system is the bears' pyjamas. The flexibility to change from 2WD to constant 4WD and high and low locked centre differential is excellent. But with a transfer ratio of only 1.9 for low range, then the Pajero will not be the choice for hard core adventures. That said, with a few tweaks, the Pajero would make a competent tourer easily capable of moderate off-road family adventures. As for safety, there’s six airbags, two ISOFIX child seat mounts for the middle row with three top tethers, anti-lock brakes, stability and traction control, emergency brake assist with electronic brake force distribution. Plus, a reversing camera. It's

fair to say that with the omission of many driver assist systems now found standard in other vehicles, the Pajero would fall short of its 5-star ANCAP rating if retested under the new regulations and standards. Mitsubishi state: up to 10 years new vehicle warranty from first registration or 200,000km (whichever comes first) when all regular services are completed within the specified service intervals at a Mitsubishi Dealership. Plus, 10 year or 150,000km Capped Price Servicing (whichever occurs first). Includes the first 10 regular services at 15,000km/12 month scheduled intervals. Conclusion: Mitsubishi engineered the Pajero with family practicality in mind; it puts function before form in almost every aspect. But there is so much clever thought and detail that has gone into making this such an easy vehicle to live with that is often overlooked. A plain Jane it may be by today’s current batch of stylised SUVs, but it’s the Pajero’s honesty and unpretentious attitude that makes it so good. In today’s fast-paced world, it seems simplicity has succumbed to the everadvancing improvements of complexity, and I often wonder … at whose cost?

Fast Facts Price: $51,490 Drive Away* Engine: 3.2-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel Output: 141kW/441Nm Transmission: Five-speed automatic Fuel: 9.1L/100km Safety rating: ANCAP 5 Stars (back in 2011) 28

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With spectacular natural attractions and dramatic landscapes to experience, Grant and Linda take us on a trip along the Red Centre Way.

A Beating

Heart By Grant & Linda Hanan

f there’s one Australian region that we regularly travel through when heading north, it’s the Red Centre. But having previously used Alice Springs as a sort of gateway to refuel and top-up food supplies before continuing on, we made a conscious decision that things would be different the next visit. Central Australia is far from small, so after throwing a few ideas around at home, we decided our next adventure would encompass the Red Centre Way. The trip would take us through the West MacDonnell Ranges and further to Uluru.

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After the obligatory run up the Stuart Highway, we kicked things off in Alice Springs. The diversity of this town alone really sees it as a destination in itself. Being surrounded by a sea of red sand, Alice is the type of place where you could easily hang out for several days and have as a base for visiting many of the excellent local attractions. The place to be at sunset is at the top of Anzac Hill, while nature lovers will enjoy getting to know the locals at the Kangaroo Sanctuary and the Reptile Centre. Other activities to throw into the

mix would be the 160 year old Alice Springs Telegraph Station (the site of the original Alice Springs) or a visit to the School of the Air Visitor Centre. Other historical interests are covered by the town heritage walk which takes you past a range of buildings from yesteryear and other attractions. You can pick up a walking map from the visitor centre which is where you’ll also find details of Red Centre Way permit requirements (a small fee is payable). One attraction we were keen to visit was located at the start of the Red Centre Way and just on the town’s outskirts. As it turned out, the Alice Springs Desert Park is one place we easily spent a full day.

While there was simply lots of exhibits to get around to and learn about, the park provided a real sense of what lives and breathes in central Australia. It’s also the type of attraction that saw us get up close to desert dwelling birds and wildlife, so it’s a great place to add to your list if you’re visiting the Alice. If you don’t know a lot about the Red Centre Way, amongst other things, you could say it’s renowned for its gorges. Both Simpsons Gap and Standley Chasm are only a short distance from Alice Springs, which in fact, could easily be visited as day trips if you’re staying in Alice. Further west, you come across a few more gorges including The distances aren’t large between Red Centre Way attractions.

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The towering red walls of Ormiston Gorge overlook its permanent waterhole. Simpsons Gap is one place that can be visited as a day trip from Alice Springs.

Redbank, Serpentine and Ormiston. So there’s lots of choice when deciding which ones you visit. We ended up visiting all of them as we had plenty of time up our sleeves and didn’t want to miss any of them out. And we’re glad we did. One thing which stood out while walking through many of the gorges was the river red gums which towered overhead. Not only did their size make them look impressive, but their shade provided very welcomed respite, as daytime temperatures were hitting the upper 30s during our late September visit. But unlike regions further north, the beauty of a visit to central Australia is you don’t need to worry about any snapping crocs around water. And there’s a few places to cool off along the Red Centre Way too. One of these is Ellery Creek Bighole 32 Western 4W Driver #119

which is a permanent waterhole and a popular picnic spot for locals and visitors alike. But don’t say you haven’t been warned ... the water can be mighty cold! When you’re looking for somewhere to bunker down for the night, there’s plenty of camping available along the way as well. It just depends on what you’re looking for. You can pay to stay in some of the National Park gorges as you go, or there’s free bush camping options too. For our visit, we chose to stay at 2 Mile 4WD Campground and Serpentine Chalet for a couple of nights

(both are free camping spots). These areas had sites to cover either single vehicles or larger groups, and sites were all spaced well apart, so you weren’t on top of each other and could enjoy a bit of privacy. Another place we swung by along the route is the ochre pits. With indigenous occupation in central Australia spanning thousands of years, this unique spot is where ochre has been collected and used in ceremonies, dancing, decoration and burial rites, and was also a popular trading commodity. It’s not until you get up close to the coloured cliffs that you realise how much ochre has been removed over time from the natural cliff face, and then trying to imagine just how long this practice has been going on for. Our tip is to make your visit an early morning one. It’s when the sun hits the rocks and makes the whole rock face light up and is pretty speccy.

The ochre pits were a highlight of the drive.

Continuing further west to Glen Helen, we couldn’t help but be captivated by the resort’s stunning backdrop. While it was only early in the day when we dropped in, we willingly grabbed a cold drink and a snack just so we could sit outside and soak up that view. Somehow that ancient and spectacular landscape isn’t one we’d ever tire from looking at. The view of the gorge at Glen Helen out the back of the resort.

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While driving the Red Centre Way, we made an effort to call in to all of the lookouts we came across. Access wasn’t a problem even though we were towing, and their landscape backdrops were too hard to ignore for us to keep driving. As it turns out, they were all perfect places to take a break, and a couple of the lookouts even offered 24hr camping if you’re looking for an overnighter.

Sandstone is a prominent feature of Kings Canyon.

After taking the Mereenie Loop Road turnoff, our next stop was Watarrka National Park (Kings Canyon). While this 260km section of the route is dirt and can be corrugated in parts, we soon forgot about that and simply soaked up the stunning views that await. Along here is where you’ll find Kings Canyon Resort which is located within the national park. We found the campground and holiday park cater well for visitors and the sunsets from the campground were colourful. We’d been

warned about the dingoes that like to visit, so left nothing outside of our setup just in case it disappeared. One thing that there’s plenty to do at Watarrka is walking. A visit to Kings Canyon is high on many Red Centre visitors’ list and we were no different. After getting a presunrise start to beat the heat, we opted to do the rim walk that takes you to the top of the canyon. This 6km loop is a moderate walk and we just needed to push past the steep climb at the start of the walk. I felt

Not a bad view from this bush camp that’s close to Glen Helen.

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half asleep before starting the climb, but our burning calves soon told us otherwise. No doubt this steep climb puts some people off, but we’ll be the first to say the effort was well worth it. Once over that section and upon reaching the top of the canyon, the track flattens out. The view up here is simply spectacular, as the track follows the canyon rim for a while before descending back down to the car park. But there’s other tracks you can do if this one sounds a little too strenuous. The Kings Creek Walk is shorter and much easier going, but still gives excellent views of the canyon walls from the viewing platform. Another walk we loved within the national park was the one at Kathleen Springs. This too is an easy walk that has story boards along the track providing information about Aboriginal culture and the area’s cattle history before becoming a national park. At the end of the walk, there’s some seats that overlook the spring-fed waterhole, so it’s another place to soak in those top views. You’re up pretty high (270m) when taking the Kings Canyon rim walk.

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Walking tracks are all in pretty good nick.

A Red Centre Way trip wouldn’t be complete without visiting Uluru, so naturally this was included. Having first visited in my late teens, Uluru still impresses me as much today as it did all those years ago. Yulara is vastly different from how I remember it, but I guess that’s what happens with progress hey. Besides doing a few walks within the park to get close to the rock, we thought we’d join in with loads of others to watch the sunset at the viewing area one night. It’s a bit of a touristy thing, so pack chairs, camera gear, drinks, nibbles and a torch or two. Torch? More on that shortly. This viewing area is extremely popular, so get in early to set up otherwise you’ll find it really is standing room only.

So back to the torch. We found the viewing area clears out pretty quickly once sunset has finished, but we were in no hurry to rush back to the campground and stuck around. With the fading light, we saw some movement on the ground and pulled the torches out to see what all the commotion was. As it turned out, the car park was full of hopping mice that put on a show under the cover of darkness, darting in all directions to feast on a bounty of crumbs and other leftovers visitors had left behind. Talk about being on a good wicket. With 50 plus vehicles watching sunset nightly, there’s no chance these guys are ever going to starve! Basing ourselves at Yulara, we did a day trip to Kata Tjuta which is less than one hour away from the Yulara campground. Getting up at the crack of dawn one morning, we headed off for a sunrise visit and stopped along the way at one of the viewing areas for some pics. While the dome-like structures looked great from a distance, it’s not until you’re up close when you truly appreciate how impressive they really are.

The morning sun catching the rocks of Kata Tjuta.

With our time up and needing to move on, we both agreed the Red Centre Way is an excellent route to explore for a couple of weeks if you’re not in a hurry. Now that we’ve explored the west Macs, we’re planning to check out the east Macs before too long. And if they’re half as good as what we experienced along the Red Centre Way, we know we’re not going to be disappointed.

While the Red Centre Way is accessible all year round, most visitors go during cooler months (April to early September) when conditions are the most comfortable. If you need to re-fuel or get basic supplies, these can be picked up from Glen Helen, Kings Creek Station, Curtin Springs, Kings Canyon Resort and Yulara. The view as we get closer to Kata Tjuta.

Attractions are well signposted within the national park.

Western 4W Driver #119

INFORMATION BAY Start/Finish: You can either begin or end in Alice Springs or Uluru. Distance: 690km. Time required: 5 days to do it comfortably. Recommended vehicle: 4WD - but plenty of 2WD campers and backpacker vans have been seen on this road in dry weather. Caravan/Camper trailer friendly: Yes, but recommended for off-road models only due to lots of corrugations. Accommodation options: Hotel/motel/budget rooms at Glen Helen, Kings Canyon, Curtin Springs and Uluru; camping or campervan. For a true outback experience, we recommend camping - especially in the West MacDonnells. National Park Entry: Entry to Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park is $38 per person for a 3 day pass. Entry to the West MacDonnell National Park and Watarrka/Kings Canyon National Park is free. Entry to Standley Chasm (fully Aboriginal owned and operated) is $10 per adult, $6 per child - and well worth it (hint: go on Saturday or Sunday for a free guided tour with a traditional Aboriginal owner of the Chasm). Permits: A permit is required (cost $5.00) to travel the section of the Red Centre Way which passes through Aboriginal Land Trusts (this is essentially private property) between Gosse Bluff and Kings Canyon. These permits are issued to everyone, across the counter. You can buy them at the Central Land Council (on the north Stuart Highway, in Alice Springs), Hermannsburg Store and Kings Canyon Resort.

Excerpt from Hema’s NT State map.

Western 4W Driver #119

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STUMPY Beaten by the CSR By Phil Bianchi

Western 4W Driver #119

After seeing the film Seriously Series - Road to Ruin and wanting to know more, I visited Kalgoorlie to interview the main character, Geoff Lewis. "Rather than talk at home, let’s go bush to a scenic spot," said Geoff, "and I’ll take you out in a real 4WD, a Land Rover."

aving seen the film, my mind immediately clouded with serious misgivings, but I didn’t let on. After all, we would be close to town and wouldn’t be stranded for long if something went wrong.

Realising there was virtually no chance securing geologist work, he completed a course in Civil Construction. He then found that there was no work available in that industry either.

Arriving at the said spot and seated in the shade within a grove of majestic Eastern Goldfield’s Black Butts, we began the interview.

There was only one course of action left; go to WA and try his luck. However, to do this he needed money so in the meantime he managed to find odd jobs, which included house painting.

Geoff told me he was Tasmanian born and completed studies in geology and geography. During his university breaks, he came to WA and worked on the St Barbara mine at Gwalia, and with some of the money he earned he bought a Series 2A 196C (1964) Land Rover for $250. Geoff transferred the canopy to 'Lara', his other Series 2 Land Rover (1961), then dismembered the remainder of the Series 2A and sold the components for $2500. His business was called ‘Lewis Land Rover Spares’ and his life as a tycoon began, well he hoped it had. The proceeds were used to restore, to operating condition, his Series 2 Land Rover, Lara. She would be the vehicle he would later use to get to WA via the Eyre Highway. After completing university studies in 2013, and with no geologist work available, he went to the USA after being told there was a lot of work there. This was not the case however, but he had a great holiday! Within two months he was back in Tassie where he began cutting firewood to sell by the roadside, which enabled him to get by. He even had a job gutting fish.

Damon, Geoff’s friend, needed a film project for his cinematography course so decided to join Geoff on his trip from Tasmania to WA. It took them six weeks to prepare the Series 2, and thankfully many of the components they required were already on hand. In mid-March 2015 they set off, taking 2½ weeks to drive from Hobart to Bunbury where Geoff’s parents resided. Geoff, still determined to get work in Geology, went to Kalgoorlie and found a job as a Pit Technician. While in Kalgoorlie, and having a thirst for adventure, Damon and Geoff decided to tackle the Canning Stock Route (CSR). Planning commenced in late 2015. Rather than just drive the CSR with little fanfare, they decided to produce a television series about the CSR, its history, geology and geography. For this trip they purchased a Series 3 1975 Land Rover (later named Stumpy). It, however needed serious modifications to enable them to carry enough fuel and water for the long, gruelling distances they would have to travel. Western 4W Driver #119

They endeavoured to keep Stumpy as authentic as possible by using as many genuine accessories that were available for the 1975 model. Items fitted: • Two 65 litre fuel tanks • Fuel lines from an ex-army 2A Land Rover • Aero parts capstan winch • ARB nitro charger shock absorbers, 1975 stock (but still new) • And a myriad of other accessories Thankfully, they had assistance from some very generous sponsors including ARB, Goldfields Off Road, Toyo Tyres, ICOM Radios and Tyre Plier Engineering and Exploration Centre. These sponsors assisted with providing or reducing the costs of some equipment and accessories for the vehicle. No actual funding was given. Leaving in September 2017, Geoff, Claire Woollacott, Damon Heather and Stevie Tuchowski set off to travel the CSR. Stumpy suffered numerous problems; mainly the result of rushing the trip preparations. By Well 2, the starter motor had failed. By Well 2A, the new fuel pump stopped working. This pump would cause much frustration and grief on the entire trip. Two days later they discovered why Stumpy was running intermittently. It was due to All set to go.

Photo: Claire Lewis.

Western 4W Driver #119

Well 2.

Photo: Damon Heather

dirty fuel which had been purchased on the way to the CSR. Running the fuel through a strainer called 'Mr Funnel', it removed most of the sand, dust, and small bits of rubbish, however, sadly, some still found its way through. The roof rack then came loose which smashed the roof gutters. To hold the roof rack up, a wedge was cut from mulga to replace the passenger side front leg. The weight of the roof rack kept the mulga in position.

Having to stop every 10-15 kilometres to tend to fuel-related issues together with the monotony of severe corrugations, the dry heat took its toll. There wasn’t time to enjoy the ever-changing scenery of springs, salt lakes, desert oak forest, mulga woodland and sand dunes. As they continued up the CSR things improved with Stumpy only breaking down three times a day instead of the usual average of six! While driving along the western side of the Durba Hills towards Durba Springs, the rear section of the exhaust fell off. It was tied in place using plastic coated electrical wire after the previously cut up rubber floor mat wasn’t doing the job. Reaching Durba Springs, under the cover of darkness, they found they had the site to themselves.

It's dead.

Photo: Damon Heather

Open heart surgery. Photo: Damon Heather

Two rest days were taken which provided time to explore Durba and to also complete significant repairs to Stumpy. This included cutting the front to rear steel brake line as it was leaking through a small pin hole, then by using a rock and a punch flattened the brake line which sealed it. Stumpy now had front brakes for the first time on the trip. At Durba, on top of the opening of the gorge in the setting sun, Geoff proposed to his now wife, Claire. He was thankful she said yes and a bottle of champagne, secreted in Stumpy and still intact, was opened in celebration. Setting off northward around Lake Disappointment, Stumpy again stopped with fuel problems. They drained the fuel out of the driver’s side fuel tank then filled it with approximately 60 litres of clean reserve fuel which had been kept in the support vehicle. Much time had been lost to ongoing breakdowns, so the team decided that at Well 33 (Kunawarritji) they would reevaluate whether they had sufficient time to complete the trip.

Fuel pump overhaul. Photo: Damon Heather

More troubles. Photo: Damon Heather

The next day was to be their best with 150km covered, then disaster struck when approaching Well 25. Damon was driving Stumpy over a sand dune, and to seek more power, he changed down gears resulting in an almighty bang. Western 4W Driver #119

Damn the corrugations. Photo: Damon Heather

Western 4W Driver #119

Hearing this, Geoff climbed the sand dune. “I think I’ve snapped an axle,” came a voice attached to the two legs sticking out from under the vehicle. "What else can happen?" thought Geoff in frustration as he reversed Stumpy down the dune. The broken axle was removed and to not damage any other diff components with metal shards, the prop shaft and remains of the axle were also removed. Stumpy was now a front wheel two-wheel drive. Satellite phone calls to nearby communities revealed no Land Rover wrecks from which to scavenge parts. They also knew that the sand dunes would become taller as they headed north so the decision was made to give up on the trip and return to Well 23, then head for Newman. This became a 36-hour grind of retracing their steps over the sand dunes. To give

Bush mechanics.

Photo: Damon Heather

"I think I’ve snapped an axle." Stumpy the best possible run up, much shovelling of sand was required to smooth out tank trap-sized holes on the sand dune approaches. The support vehicle, having already crested the dune, would then pull Stumpy over the summit. On large dunes a tow strap was needed to get Stumpy over. Exhausted, but with a huge sigh of relief, they made it to Georgia Bore.

While on the road to Newman they noticed the handbrake kept coming on. A check showed that the engine was listing severely to the driver’s side. Further investigation revealed that the engine mounts along with the passenger side gearbox mount were also broken. The handbrake had been coming on because the listing engine was leaning on Stumpy’s handbrake cable Didn't make it.

Photo: Claire Lewis.

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Dejection.

Photo: Claire Lewis.

and stretching it. They also found that the throttle linkage on the carburettor was stretched as well. Unable to drive the vehicle in that condition, as further significant damage could be the result, several options for makeshift repairs were considered. They finally decided that something like a sling in which the motor would be suspended was the best option. Hunting around the area, near a very dejected Stumpy, they scored their first bit of luck on this trip by finding old fencing wire, bolts and some angle iron that had seen better days. They put two Novel engine mount. Photo: Claire Lewis.

Western 4W Driver #119

Newman bound.

Photo: Damon Heather

lengths of angle iron east/west across the top of the motor supporting them on the mudguards. The motor was jacked into position and numerous strands of fencing wire were looped under the front and rear of the motor to create a sling/cradle. The wire was then tensioned using a flat bladed screwdriver. Once they determined what parts were required, these were ordered by satellite phone for delivery to the Newman Post Office. In Newman they spent five days trudging to the post office from the caravan park to collect parts as they arrived.

Oops.

Photo: Damon Heather

The usual time needed to traverse the CSR was 3-4 weeks, however, this journey had taken 25 days from Wiluna to Well 25, and returning to Georgia Bore. The list of major problems encountered by Stumpy includes: • Fuel pump or carburettor rebuilt 24 times • Broken axle U bolts • Broken spring centre bolts • Broken gearbox mount • Failed brake lines • Failed roof sills Spare parts.

Shady spot.

Photo: Damon Heather

Before we finished the interview Geoff told me about Stumpy’s genuine factory fitted dual battery/starting system. Digging away inside Stumpy he revealed a crank handle. "This is it", he declared while giving Stumpy a crank. With an asthmatic cough and a splutter, Stumpy came to life and idled away. A very funny man is Geoff. He then asked if I wanted a drive and not wishing to offend, I jumped in, or should I say contorted my way into the driver’s seat; it was a bit like trying to squeeze a 10kg bag of sugar into a 5kg bag! If I ever buy a Landie it’s going to have to be a stretch job, I thought to myself.

Photo: Damon Heather

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We set off for home, calling into Geoff’s house, where I loaded my gear into my Cruiser. I said my goodbyes but not before sterilising everything, including myself, as I didn’t want to chance catching ‘Land Roveritis’. I’ve been told it’s worse than COVID-19 and there isn’t a vaccine! What’s next on the agenda for Stumpy and the crew? "A trip from Warburton, down the Connie Sue to Rawlinna and then into Twilight Cove", says Geoff. All jokes aside, I thoroughly enjoyed my day with Geoff and his very dry sense of humour. With his determination to meet any challenge head on and his passion for 4W driving out back in his beloved Land Rovers, we will see a lot more of Geoff in years to come. Have we got a budding Malcolm Douglas here? Time will tell, but I’m sure Malcolm would be impressed by what he’s seen so far.

INFORMATION BAY Don’t take a trip on the CSR lightly. Significant planning and preparation is required. Get a copy of Western 4W Driver magazine’s The 4W Driver’s Guide Canning Stock Route for everything you need to know. www.western4wdriver.com.au/shop PERMITS Permits are required for CSR access, and application can be made online at: https://permits.canningstockroute.net.au PASTORAL STATION ACCESS Seek access permission beforehand, your presence may interfere with mustering and other station activities. Fees are payable for access to and from the CSR via GlenAyle Station (08 9981 2989) or Granite Peak Station (08 9981 2983). Check out Geoff’s 'Seriously Series' YouTube channel for info on the movie Road to Ruin. For a comprehensive history of the CSR get Work Completed, Canning. A Comprehensive History of the Canning Stock Route 1906-1910 by Phil Bianchi.

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Western 4W Driver #119

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OVER THE KIMBERLEY By Grant & Linda Hanan

Western 4W Driver 119 #

A bird's eye view of the upper Ord River by Kununurra.

The Kimberley overflows with breathtaking attractions and taking to the skies for a bird's eye view gives a completely different perspective. Grant and Linda share their tips on top flights that visit the best the west can offer.

t doesn’t matter where you go in the Kimberley, its rugged and majestic landscape is some of the best scenery in the country. But when the size of the region means large distances between attractions or they’re simply impossible to get to with a 4WD, you’ll need an alternative mode of transport. Although that’s far from being a bad thing. This is where taking one of the many available air tours will give you a completely different experience to what you get on the ground. When up in the air and having a bird's eye view, you get to witness an everchanging landscape to help you appreciate the size and magnitude of this incredible area. With numerous fixed-wing, seaplane and helicopter tours offered around the region, there’s plenty of opportunities to get in on the action. Air tours are also the perfect way to get a lot of information quickly. Pilots double as tour guides and provide commentary along the way while passengers can listen intently through supplied headphones. Tours generally depart from the main hubs around the Kimberley, and whether you’re flying over land or one of the coastal regions, be assured the breathtaking scenery alone will be a visit highlight. Let’s take a look at a few of the top tours being offered. Western 4W Driver #119

BUNGLE BUNGLE NATIONAL PARK If you’re planning a trip to the Kimberley, many visitors include a stopover at Purnululu (Bungle Bungle National Park). But if time isn’t on your side to be able to incorporate the travel needed from the highway plus a night or two in the park, a day flight tour from Kununurra can be a good introduction. The tour showcases the stunning scenery from the air as well as a first-hand and close-up experience of the domes at ground level as well. For that reason, we’ve always found Kununurra an excellent spot to have as a base for a few days when many tours leave from here. Aviair offers a variety of tours around the Kimberley region including the day tour we took to Purnululu. The day starts with an early morning pick up of guests from their A walking tour of the Bungles is included with the Aviair day flight from Kununurra.

Western 4W Driver #119

A flight over Bungle Bungle shows how widespread the domes really are.

accommodation around Kununurra. We’re all briefed and weighed with our bags inside Aviair’s terminal at the airport. It’s about now we dreaded squeezing in that extra piece of pizza last night! After another briefing by our pilot in the plane before taking off, it’s up, up and away as we take to the skies. The flight takes only an hour from Kununurra, but the scenery below grabs

our attention the minute we leave terra firma. This flight pretty well tracks the Ord River and on to Lake Argyle while flying over some of the Ord irrigation area along the way. After arriving at Bellburn Airstrip within the National Park, guests tuck into some morning tea before hopping on the awaiting Bungle Bungle Savannah Lodge & Tours bus. The walking tour takes visitors to the southern end of the park for a moderate hike into Cathedral Gorge and passes the very picturesque and snow-white sunbleached bed of Piccaninny Creek. Our guides for the day provided ongoing commentary during the walking tour, while sharing their knowledge about a range of topics. These include the six seasons in the Kimberley, some geography, and the area’s flora and fauna. But not only from a European perspective, but indigenous as well. Cathedral Gorge is a where the tour stops for a picnic-style lunch (provided), and there’s plenty of time for pics and to soak in this awe-inspiring landmark. The return walk is just as interesting when our indigenous guide stops to explain the use of many plants found nearby. After getting back onto the air-conditioned bus, the next stop is the Bungle Bungle Savannah Lodge. The tour stops here

for afternoon tea before leaving for the return flight to Kununurra. The lodge has visitors well covered, with a number of cabins, restaurant, swimming pool and a licensed bar. So it’s possible to stay here overnight as well when booked ahead, and is a glamping treat for those looking to extend their Bungle Bungle experience. The flight back to Kununurra takes in a view of the massive Argyle Diamond Mine complex and the rugged Osmand Range before arriving in Kununurra just prior to sunset. The tour ends after a short run into town and dropping you back at your accommodation. This tour is a full day that we found provides the best of both worlds … you get breathtaking views from the air, but also that first-hand experience of one of the region’s most favoured attractions at ground level.

LAKE ARGYLE We’ll be the first to say a visit and cruise to Lake Argyle should be on every Kimberley visitor’s list, but a visit by seaplane takes things up a notch. When the full lake tops more than a phenomenal 20 Sydney Harbours in size and covers around 1,000 square kilometres, the seaplane provides an incredible experience from water level

It’s hard to imagine the size of Lake Argyle until you take to the skies and there’s water for miles.

Western 4W Driver #119

Enjoying a fabulous morning tea on our own private Lake Argyle island.

as well as the air. Kimberley Air Tours are based in Kununurra and run half day tours that showcase some of the best scenery of Lake Argyle if that’s ever possible. Taking off from the calm water of Lake Kununurra is a thrill in itself, but the scenery as we flew low-level towards Lake Argyle was simply out of this world. This was a highlight for the flight in general, as you get to see the lake and its islands quite close up, clearly making out flocks of birds in some instances. Taking off and landing on water was a highlight of our Lake Argyle tour.

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After passing over Lake Argyle, the flight then tracks towards the Bungles over spectacular ranges and the large cattle station properties of Lissadell and Texas Downs. It was mustering time when we visited and could easily make out yards full of cattle below. After circling the plane over the Bungles in both directions for passengers, our pilot ensured we were all able to get good views of a number of park highlights. The return leg was just as exciting as the plane passes over Argyle Diamond Mine before landing directly on Lake Argyle. If you thought landing on tarmac was fun, flying in low towards water and landing on the lake was thrilling to say the least. With a super-smooth landing, our pilot taxied the plane towards one of the many islands where we disembarked on shore for some homestyle morning tea and a walk around the island. With no other people within cooee and being on our own private island, this turned out such a memorable stop.

As we boarded the plane for the last leg back to Kununurra, we felt like kids on a show ride as we picked up speed to take off from the lake. Naturally, it was smiles all round. Before we knew it, we were airborne and got a chance to appreciate the last of the breathtaking scenery before landing back safely on Lake Kununurra. This tour runs both mornings and afternoons out of Kununurra, and now having experienced it for ourselves, we completely understand why this tour is so popular.

HORIZONTAL FALLS It’s no secret the Horizontal Falls is a Kimberley attraction that is completely unique. And as far as natural attractions go, it’s right up there. But unless your 4WD is amphibious, you’ll need a plane or boat to reach them. Our first visit to the falls was way back in 2007 when Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures had not long kicked off their tours out of Broome. These days the falls are so popular there’s a variety of half day and full day tours available that leave from either Broome or Derby. There’s also another tour which includes an overnight stay if you’re looking for something extra special and a bit of indulgence.

Experiencing the Horizontal Falls from water level is fun for all.

The flight takes only an hour from Broome to reach the falls, but we didn’t mind if it took longer. In true Kimberley fashion, the scenery below is as captivating as ever the moment the flight departs Broome. Initially flying over dense mangroves and further across the Dampier Peninsula, it’s the enchanting views of the turquoise coloured water of King Sound and the surrounding islands that truly captivates. The scenery is so good, you don’t know which way to look out of the plane’s windows. By the time the Horizontal Falls comes into view and the seaplane lands in Talbot Bay shortly after, you’ll be itching to experience them up close from the water. As far as natural attractions go, it’s hard to go past the Horizontal Falls.

Western 4W Driver #119

The Horizontal Falls’ opening looks much tighter from the air.

Western 4W Driver #119

The tour has guests arriving at a luxury houseboat base with a cooked breakfast or barbeque lunch included depending on which tour you’re on. Settling back in a chair on the deck and eating an alfresco style meal isn’t exactly a hard thing to do anywhere, but the surroundings here are nothing short of pictureperfect. The fast boat ride is both thrill-seeking and informative. The narrow gap between the falls provides loads of fun as the boat zooms through the swirling waters of the two falls before turning around to do it all again. Guides also provide commentary about the falls and the unique rock formations within the bay, so the tour is educational at the same time. The return flight to Broome is just as spectacular when it hugs the coastline all the way back. Tours with Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures include airport transfers from accommodation around Broome. This tour is definitely right up there … it’s an amazing day from start to finish and one we think you’ll remember for a very long time. Our helicopter flight landed on the mudflats with the magnificent Cockburn Range as a backdrop.

Flying over Mitchell Falls provides a completely different perspective.

HELICOPTER FLIGHTS While fixed wing tours in the Kimberley are a good option for attractions that are further afield, it’s hard to go past a helicopter tour for short distance attractions or to take you to those hard to get to type places. Besides their ability to get to places where no runway is required, their hovering capability means we can get much closer to attractions. Helispirit has pretty well got the region covered for visiting a range of attractions by helicopter and has bases at some of the big-ticket destinations. Mitchell Falls is one of these places where being on a helicopter comes into its own. A hike to the falls from the campground generally takes 2-3 hours, but less than 10 minutes by helicopter.

Western 4W Driver #119

Our sunset view at the Pentecost River was far from average.

We’ve always found walking into the falls is best done in the cool of the day, but when some visitors end up camping some distance away at King Edward River and day trip it to Mitchell Falls, the helicopter transfer one way (or both) can be a good option. But the flight isn’t good just for those day trippers. The 360° views from the chopper are breathtaking and give a completely different perspective to what you experience on the ground. Helispirit has a base by the Mitchell Falls campground during the main tourist season and offers the short taxi service to and from Mitchell Falls, but other scenic tours go as far as the coast as well. Other Helispirit bases within the region include the Bungles and El Questro to get you close to sights that in some cases are otherwise inaccessible. Visiting a secluded waterfall, heli-fishing, a private sunset tour, or even creating your own custom itinerary are all possible out of El Questro. Tours vary in price, duration and the number of passengers, so it pays to do some research beforehand. When there’s so many choices of helicopter tours around the Kimberley where you can experience jaw-dropping scenery and attractions, it makes the decision for selecting which tour to go on far from easy. 58

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As much as we love our 4WD to go exploring, there’s so much more to experience about the Kimberley when you take to the skies. Whether you’re looking to experience the contrasting colours of the ranges, see the vast amount of water firsthand, or simply have the ability to see things up close and from another perspective, get yourself on at least one Kimberley air tour. We guarantee it will be one of your Kimberley trip highlights.

INFORMATION BAY For more information about these and other flights, go to: Aviair aviair.com.au Horizontal Seaplane Adventures horizontalfallsadventures.com.au Helispirit helispirit.com.au Kimberley Air Tours kimberleyairtours.com.au

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Vehicle Recovery By Richard Nicholls

Getting bogged, stuck or just tractionally challenged is an inevitable part of 4W driving. How you structure the recovery of your vehicle can either make a good day great, or a bad day worse.

Western 4W Driver #119

he first thing to remember is to stop and assess the situation. This may involve stabilising the vehicle by chocking the wheels or attaching a strap from another vehicle or tree and removing passengers if there is any risk to them by staying in the vehicle. Ensure that everyone not directly involved in the recovery are well out of the way. Remain calm and don’t panic, all you have at present is a stuck vehicle. Don’t turn it into anything else. Grab a tea, coffee or some water and don’t let the adrenalin get the better of you. Ask yourself, how am I stuck and why did I get stuck? Answering these questions will help you plan how to extricate your vehicle.

Remember it is common practice in most recovery situations to use low range. This increases the twisting force or torque at the wheels to overcome resistance, however the same twisting force can spin the wheels more easily in certain terrain so don’t get too carried away with your right foot. Is the vehicle hung up or being stopped from moving by an external force? For example, a tree root or a large rock that has got caught up on the axle, or an old fishing net that has pulled you into the ground when driving down the beach. Has the vehicle lost traction? Getting crossed up in a water rut or on a steep muddy slope or maybe you have simply bellied the vehicle out in soft sand and lost traction at the wheels.

Why am I stuck? Experience tells us this is typically driver error. This could be due to inexperience, inattention or simply laziness. Occasionally however we can suffer a mechanical breakdown which leads to us becoming stuck. Remember, don't be too hard on yourself, everybody has to learn and we all learn at different rates. But being stuck is a good teacher, and a great opportunity to learn not just how to get your vehicle out, but how to avoid the situation in the future.

Scenario One – Beach Bogged The first thing you need to assess is the proximity of the vehicle to the water and whether you have time on your hands or not. Is the vehicle still sitting on the wheels or are you resting on the chassis? How much clearance is under the body? If you have clearance and weight on the wheels then you might be able to drive it out. Clear the sand from around the tyres Western 4W Driver #119

and air them down. If you have traction boards like Maxtrax or Treds then this is where you need to use them. Get them underneath the wheels to allow the vehicle to get purchase and elevate it as you drive out. If your vehicle is sitting on the chassis then you are beached and there is only one way out. Break out the shovel and start clearing from under the vehicle. You need the weight back on the wheels if you want any chance of driving out. If you have cargo or passengers with you, you may want to consider partially unloading the vehicle. Just taking some weight out may allow the suspension to lift the chassis off the ground. Keep digging and clearing until you have some daylight between the chassis and the sand. Still stuck? This is where you need extra caution and to really think about how to recover the vehicle. If you have the equipment and the experience, then a winch is your next best option. This will require a winch either fitted to your vehicle or another vehicle and a suitable anchor point. This can be another vehicle, sand anchor or even your spare wheel buried in the sand. Ensure that everyone is well out of harm’s way before proceeding. Due to the use of a winch being very controlled, as in you control the speed by which the winch operates, it has the least chance of doing serious damage to your vehicle. Ensure that you are connected to rated recovery points. If winching is not an option, then you may also consider a tow from another vehicle using a non-kinetic strap, or the use of a kinetic snatch strap if the vehicle is really stuck. It is important to remember that in either case, both the vehicle recovering and the vehicle to be recovered need to be equipped with the correct recovery points to allow for a safe recovery. This type of recovery is best learnt in a controlled environment on a 4WD training course rather than in a live situation if you don't know what you're doing. 62

Western 4W Driver #119

Warning! People have lost their lives recovering vehicles using snatch straps and winching, don’t be one of them. If you don’t have the correct equipment or have never been taught how to recover a vehicle in this manner, then it might be a better option to call for help. Paying for a recovery vehicle is sometimes the safest option and ensures that everyone makes it home. Once you get your vehicle out, check it over to make sure you haven’t sustained any damage before you proceed.

Scenario Two – Bush Stuck The most common scenario when driving along a bush track is losing traction crossing over a water rut. Known as getting 'crossed up', this is caused by a loss of traction on diagonally opposite wheels. Unless you have an axle diff lock or traction control, you need to find a method to regain wheel traction. Refrain from just planting your right foot as a free spinning wheel is not going to get you out, and the chances of serious damage occurring to the drive train if it does suddenly make contact with terrafirma cannot be overstated. Get out and assess your situation. Sometimes manoeuvring the front axle is your best option or you may need to rock the vehicle to reposition it. Either way, you are looking to get your axle as flat as possible. Another thing to consider is your tyres, if they are aired down this can help with increasing the articulation of the suspension. If the tyre that has the weight on it is reduced in pressure it lowers, therefore dropping the tyre on the opposite side toward the ground. Packing up underneath the wheels that have lifted is sometimes the best answer. This should be done using rocks or maybe even Maxtrax or Treds. Try not to use sticks as they are low in traction and can often result in damage on the underside of the vehicle by getting caught in brake lines or

in the chassis. If you find yourself hung up on the front bumper or towing system you may need to get the shovel out. However this can be totally avoided by removing things such as towing tongues prior to 4W driving. Taking it up a notch to advanced driving and terrain - when driving in steep, difficult or muddy conditions its best to know what you are up for by checking out the track first. This doesn't guarantee success, however it does give you a better idea of what you may be up against if things don't go to plan. Knowing where your vehicle may end up or where it will need to be recovered from allows you to make an informed decision on whether to carry on or find another route. Difficult terrain shouldn't be driven on your own. Always travel with another vehicle. Remember even the most experienced drivers can get into trouble. Preparation is the key to a good and safe recovery if you decide to forge ahead. Consider setting your recovery gear up on your vehicle prior to starting. If you are driving a difficult water crossing you may consider trailing a strap behind you so that the vehicle can be pulled backwards if necessary, or if vehicles are across on the other side, attaching it to the front so that it can be pulled forward. Driving a steep slope either up or down can be fraught with problems. If going down, gravity will always assist and sometimes will get you down the hill quicker than you anticipated. Driving up the hill however can result in loss of traction and the vehicle slipping backwards down the hill. Either way you can end up in a place you didn't want to be and this is where preparation comes in. Having someone external to the vehicle on the radio spotting you through the drive can help avoid an unwanted situation. If you get stuck despite this, setting up anchor points around trees or large boulders to allow you to winch your vehicle out of the situation or pre-laying your traction boards at strategic points

to assist the vehicle are two strategies that will help you. As recoveries become more complex with more people involved it is best to appoint a recovery captain or marshal, they will oversee the proceedings and ensure all the appropriate steps are taken. This person needs to be experienced in recovery and be able to communicate to others what is required. Remember the point of the exercise is to recover the vehicle with the least amount of damage possible. You may need to use multiple techniques to recover the vehicle, and if it's not working don't be afraid to go back a stage in order to move forward. We have come across many stuck vehicles during our 4WD training days and the following is just one example. We always try to help where possible, and it is a good learning opportunity for students to see an unstaged recovery. In this situation, the Jeep driver was straddling a very deep water rut when the vehicle slipped into it. The first thing was to assess the situation and come up with a plan. We reversed the vehicle out of the rut whilst getting the rear wheel to hook up onto the bank and level the vehicle.

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A gnarly tree stump was used to fill the main of the hole with the addition of rocks added to form a ramp for the wheel to travel up. The edge of the bank was dug out to allow for MAXTRAX to be laid in and a side load placed on the jeep with a winch line as well as a strap attached to the roof rack frame to stabilise and stop the vehicle from tipping as we recovered it. Recovering vehicles takes time and effort, and can put everyone into a stressful situation. Be sure to thank any third parties that have assisted you in the recovery before you drive off, a thankyou goes a long way.

Western 4W Driver #119

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A trail of

GOLD By Geoff Lewis

There are very few tracks that can define the ecosystem of an area along with heralding a key event that helped to build a colony into a state. The Holland Track is one such trail.

t was December 2020, the year that would mark the 59th birthday of my 88 inch Series 2 Land Rover. Due to this, I thought it was well overdue for a trip, or should I say adventure, as every trip in a Land Rover is an adventure. The Holland Track had been on my radar for some time and I wished to do it again. So

with the camping gear packed, all fluids and oils topped up and the door tops removed for proper natural air conditioning, we set off on the 350km trek from Kalgoorlie to Hyden. Whilst Hyden marks the starting point for most travellers taking on the Holland Track, it is not the official start, which is

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Western 4W Driver #119

Broomehill. The section from Broomehill to Hyden consists of mainly gravel and sealed roads, though from Hyden the sealed and well-formed roads all end. The Holland Track was formed in 1893 by John Holland who answered the call for a track to be forged from Broomehill to the newly established goldfields at Coolgardie, a distance of some 500km. The trail would help new migrants that flocked to the port town of Albany in the south of Western Australia, cutting a week off their journey to the goldfields. Many had attempted to forge a path through to Coolgardie, but had failed. John Holland somewhat understood the country and had several years of experience

working and co-existing in the bushland around Broomehill. With a band of five ponies and a party of four men they were able to push the track through in an astonishing two months. Fast forward to December 2020, my own journey began with the sun getting low in the sky and the drone of a 2.25 litre engine pulling the mighty car along at 55mph. The odd whiff of SAE 90 gear oil kept me on my toes. I made my first night's camp at the start of the Holland Track north of the Hyden - Norseman Road, 50km east of Hyden, and after preparing a simple meal, I set in for the night light show of the unspoilt Milky Way.

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Not fast but furious.

Day 2 After packing up camp I discovered that the earth wire to the sender unit in the Series 2 had broken and the fuel gauge had stopped working. Without the correct tools to fix the issue, I filled the tank up out of the jerry cans and resigned myself to the fact that I would just check the fuel level by knocking my knuckle on the side of the square tank which was under the driver's seat (this is where the term hot seat came from). For John Holland and his team, navigating the track wasn’t without its problems. In the 1890s much of the key overland routes had been established, but some pockets on the map were still unknown to them.

Granite country north of Mt Holland.

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The arid country from Broomehill to Coolgardie was one of these pockets and many had died from attempting to reach Coolgardie, with the region having a low annual rainfall of less than 300mm and the cover soil comprising heavily of sand, meaning any rainfall is lost quickly in this country.

Today, the trail cuts deep into the ground. Heavy use over thirty years has taken its toll, with much of the track worn away to the clay footings, giving much of the southern section of the track a sure bottom. Wide-open plains fade quickly along with the sand and the track becomes more challenging with holes large enough to lose your car in, though there are easier routes available around these obstacles.

Once again with the sun setting on another day, the tyres skipped and grabbed as the Land Rover scaled to the summit of Mount Holland. Looking to the south and the north very little could be seen, just a lonely gravel road twisting and turning to the nearby Forrestania mine.

With low range engaged in the Series 2, it slowly but surely climbed through the more tame obstacles with the engine purring to the whine of the straight cut gears. Flora becomes more dense as the western fringe of the Great Western Woodlands is reached, and out of the canopy of eucalypts the most notable landmark of the Holland Track emerges, Mount Holland. Such landmarks would have been a very welcome sight to those travelling up the track in the 1890s and it was certainly a welcome sight even today.

Day 3

This would end up being a forgotten site for nearly one hundred years as shortly after its construction, the Holland Track was found to be somewhat obsolete thanks to the gold Paddy Hannan found near Kalgoorlie in June 1893 and the railway extending to Kalgoorlie from Southern Cross. The focus of the industry in Coolgardie was lost and the need for a track to the once hub of the Goldfields was no longer required.

The track was an interesting drive, twisting, turning and ascending over small ridges and out onto vast sandy plains covered in low lying shrubs. With the Land Rover humming along at a happy 25mph (40km/h) we were making good progress, and close to midday it was time to pull over for some lunch at Sandalwood Soak.

Sandalwood Rock.

Greeted by a much cooler day and with a greater chance for the natural air conditioning to keep up (front flaps open and door tops off), after the usual presystems checks the Series 2 was ready for another day of exploring.

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Soaks such as these are very important landmarks in this part of the world, and the identification of them typifies early exploration in the region. The smooth rock surface acts as a catchment area when the rains come. The rock holes and deep crevasses created along the joints of the rock capture the water, and water may be found in some of these for up to a week after the rains have passed. After the surface water has dried up, it is on the edge of the soak that gets interesting - the run-off water from the granite soaks into the soil and it acts like a sponge, and provided green grass or small vegetation is growing you can dig down and water will slowly seep into the hole. John Holland made sure that the trail followed these dotted granite outcrops, with the distance between each one being a couple of day's walk which could be reached in winter by a travelling prospector pushing their wheelbarrow. Being thankful for not having to push the wheelbarrow, I hopped back into the dusty cabin of the Land Rover and continued on. The trail at this point is really easy with the worst obstacles being corrugations and the odd deep wash out. With more open plains, there was the odd island cluster of eucalyptus amongst the sea shrubs. In the wide open plains between these islands there was a concrete marker on the side of the track with a plaque on its southern face, with an inscription of the plaque celebrating the Holland Track being

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Tackling the obstacles.

brought back to life in 1993.The original trail had been retraced as closely as they could up to this point though it was lost to the wilderness from here. Once again camp set up for the last night on an island of eucalyptus, with tomorrow being the last day on the trail. Day 4 The next day was uneventful with odd obstacles found off to the side of the track and the occasional bang of hitting a large tree root running across the track. It was a nice relief reaching the Victoria Rock Road which nowadays marks the end point for many travelling on the Holland Track (the original trail went all the way to Coolgardie). Feeling relaxed and ready to sit on a formed road I upped the bonnet, hooked the air compressor up to the battery, and then reached into the cabin to start the motor. Then disaster struck. A 'bang' was heard. I raced from the cab to the engine bay, casting my eye over the air compressor and then into the engine bay,

but everything seemed fine? Then the penny dropped, the fan on the motor wasn’t spinning, the cables from the air compressor were wrapped around the water pump and the fan belt hung, swinging in the breeze. The fan had caught the positive/negative leads and the sharp edge of the alligator clips had cut the fan belt. I delved into the toolbox and all that I came back with was worry as I realised I had taken the spare fan belt out to use on my Series 3 Land Rover and hadn’t packed another spare. What to do? After having some lunch in the shade of a tree I looked through the gear I had and found some nylon cord which I had used as guide ropes for my canvas tarp. I eyed up the V of the pulleys on the motor and found it to be the right diameter. By using the old fan belt as a stencil I cut the cord a bit longer with my pocket knife and tied a firm knot. Then by fitting it to the motor I carefully assessed the tension on the cord by applying pressure on the alternator to make sure it was just enough. After a couple of attempts, success! I carefully drove the last 60km into Coolgardie, where I was able to call a mate to bring me a more suitable spare. Trips ends, though adventure never ends. On top of Mt Holland.

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The rut runner.

INFORMATION BAY Best time to go: Cooler months. Avoid travelling in summer. Recommended vehicle: 4WD only. Caravan/Camper trailer friendly: Caravans - No. Camper trailers possible but not recommended. Driving tips: Southern section can be hazardous in extreme wet weather conditions. Check weather before starting your trip. Points of interest: Soaks and relevant sites are clearly marked along the trail. For more information: Get a copy of Western 4W Driver's guide book Explore the Holland Track and Cave Hill Woodlines from www.western4wdriver.com.au/shop

FreeTouring Map Featuring 8 Iconic

ROADTRIPS

Kununurra Kooljaman Ardi Cultural Drive

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Exmouth

Shark Bay

Derby Broome

Karratha Onslow

Gibb River Road

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Coral Coast Hwy

Geraldton

Laverton

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Merredin

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Albany

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PEEDAMULLA Campground By Chris Morton

The entrance to Peedamulla is actually the Onslow-Peedamulla Road, a reasonably well-maintained shortcut to Onslow when coming from the north, being only about 60km from town. The campgrounds are only a short 7km off the North West Coastal Highway.

Heading south from Karratha after a whirl-wind tour of the Pilbara, my destination was Peedamulla Campground.

aren had jumped a flight back to Perth the previous evening to rescue her mum from our kids and I was making my way home with a couple of stops along the way. With a storm fast approaching and the promise of a quick tour of the property if I could get there before the rain arrived, I made sure I was on the road at the crack of dawn.

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Part of the Camping with Custodians program, the campground was opened in 2018 with assistance from Tourism WA. It boasts 20 large sites, with five of them having power and water. A modern camp kitchen and nearby ablution block offers hot showers and flushing toilets. A communal firepit and a recently added camp oven firepit create a great atmosphere for anyone staying. As I arrived, I was warmly greeted by Adi who ensures that the site’s facilities are maintained to an extremely high standard. Her partner Shane, the station manager, soon tracked me down and we quickly started discussing what we could take a look at before the rain got too serious.

Excerpt from Hema’s WA State map.

With the promise of a fresh water swamp and some remote coastal scenery I quickly unhooked the caravan and we headed off in the Western 4W Driver 200 series for a tour. Sprawling across a vast coastal plain, Peedamulla Station sits between Onslow and the North West Coastal Highway. The Cane River snakes its way from the Hamersley Ranges, almost 200km to the east, spilling out into the ocean amongst mangroves and red sand dunes. First established around 1880, the almost 800,000 acre property started off as a sheep station, carrying approximately 100,000 head, changing hands over the years until it was sold back to the government and reverting back to indigenous ownership with the Parker family in 1985.

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Peedamulla Swamp - living up to its name, meaning 'plenty water'.

For anyone staying at the campgrounds, a map and some directions will allow you to explore the property out to the mouth of the Cane River. This section of coast is relatively untouched, with only a few locals venturing out here. Once you turn off the Onslow-Peedamulla road you are on station tracks. Conditions will vary depending on the weather and as we found out, things change extremely quickly when it starts to rain. Our first stop was the Peedamulla Swamp, the only naturally occurring freshwater formation in the entire Pilbara, consuming nearly 4000 acres. It is an ornithologist’s delight with a wide range of bird species as well as the occasional Golden Orb Spider. The swamp is also where the name Peedamulla comes from, meaning 'plenty water'. Getting back on the track, it wasn’t long until we arrived at the coast. On this occasion it was particularly windy, as a storm front was fast starting to close in on us. The ocean lapping red sand dunes would make for some spectacular images in the right conditions and it was just unfortunate that the weather was not in our favour.

We backtracked around to the mouth of the Cane and had a wander along the mangrove lines shore. Shane informed me that this was a great spot to catch a feed of fish. They regularly launched their tinny here and were never disappointed in their haul. He did recount a recent incident though that made me pause. While recovering his boat, waist deep in water, he had a close encounter with a 'salty'. The 10-foot predator was 'hunting' a dead sea turtle that was floating not far from him. Shane surmises that he was lucky not to end up on the menu as the animal was obviously getting confused with the scent of the expired turtle making it difficult for him to detect Shane. He said that crocs aside, there is always opportunities for mangrove jack and mud crabs however he is more wary when he is near or in the water now. Someone is always on watch and ready to respond appropriately if the need should arise. With the rain now upon us and the tide quickly rising, we were forced to abandon the track we drove in on and make our way back to higher ground across some spinifex country. Although the rain was

The coast offers visitors a relatively untouched destination. Track conditions change frequently.

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still relatively light, its consistency was quickly turning the ground into a slippery mess. On several occasions Shane managed to get the 200 sideways (he was driving so I could take some video) without any real effort. Arriving back onto the Onslow-Peedamulla Road was a slight relief, as I had visions of getting stuck and having to walk out. Overnight the rain fell, the forecasted 40mm ended up being 20mm but still more than enough to reduce the roads to a slippery mess. On a tight deadline and with no road closures advised, I headed out for the highway. Quickly, I realised that I might have been better off staying put but with a caravan in tow, turning around was not an option. Reduced to low range, I crawled along the 7km of dirt, dragging the protesting caravan the entire way. Almost an hour later, the black ribbon that is the North West Coastal Highway sprang into view, allowing me to disengage low range and attempt to shake off some of the sticky mud. During the entire one-hour white knuckle journey, I had been listening to the same voice on channel 40, indicating that either he was just in front of me or was stationary not far away. It ended up being the driver of a Kia sedan, parked on the side of the road, waiting for the flooding Peedamulla Creek, which had grown to biblical proportions to swallow a large section of the highway. Stopping to talk to him, I soon discovered that the water levels were dropping quite quickly and then several other towing vehicles had passed through safely. By this stage the water was running at about the height of the bottom of my bullbar. Watching the water dropping further, I decided to wait until the water was below the side steps to ensure that the vehicle didn’t offer too much sideways resistance when crossing. Picking the dead centre of the road as my line, being the highest point

Peedamulla Creek

on the road, I locked in second gear and made my way across. Keeping my speed constant, the water crossing was quite uneventful, however, with a recent tragic end to crossing flood waters it reinforces the need to not rush your decision-making process when confronted with these types of obstacles. In this instance I took my time. Speaking with the other motorist (who was also an off-duty police officer) I knew that: • The road surface was still intact • The water levels were dropping quickly and were going to be below my side steps when I entered • The centre of the road was the highest point • Several other vehicles had successfully negotiated the obstacle before me in the previous 15 minutes • My vehicle was equipped appropriately and there was no risk of water ingress.

INFORMATION BAY Campground open: April to October. Recommended vehicle: 2WD accessible into campground in dry weather. High clearance 4WD required to travel station tracks. Terrain: Unsealed tracks. Accommodation options: 20 campsites (5 with power and water) plus overflow available. For more information or to book: https://peedamulla.com.au Western 4W Driver #119

Gathering of the Clans By Karl Fehlauer, Westralian Images

Easter at Narloo

They say, “From small things, big things grow” and that is true. In early December 2020, John Collins (Chairman of Track Care WA) and I (President of the Four Wheel Drive Club of WA) were catching up for a morning coffee when John asked me, “What are you guys doing for Easter?”

replied, “Nothing, why?” and from there the seed was planted and it grew into a large tree! At the time I didn’t realise exactly how big that tree was going to be but it was big.

Over the course of two more coffees it was also decided that we needed to do something to make it more interesting and it was decided that having a ‘theatre under the stars’ would be a great idea.

As the conversation continued we decided that a trip to Narloo Station in the Yalgoo region would make for a great get-away for both our organisations to get together for a fun weekend. Initially, we thought that we would probably attract maybe a dozen or so vehicles from each organisation but we were wrong!

It was then that John suggested that we should invite Geoff Lewis from the Serious Series YouTube Channel to attend and show his documentary movie of his trip on the Canning Stock Route called ‘Road to Ruin’ in which he and a friend try and drive it in an old Series 3 Land Rover. The movie was being shown in some independent

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Narloo Homestead.

theatres around WA at the time and we thought that showing it at Narloo would be the perfect setting for it. A quick phone call later and Geoff and his movie were booked in, things were starting to take shape and we hadn’t even left the café yet. Little did I know how much this idea would grow. Over the next couple of weeks, I sat down and started to plan the event. I am no event planner but I have many years of planning and organising experience gained from

my time in the Army, so I applied the same logic and away I went. Contact was made with John Coetsee from DPaW who manages Narloo and permission for holding the event there was gained. Geoff Lewis then contacted us and asked if it would be okay if the guys from Austravel Safety Net Inc. (austravelsafetynet.org.au) could attend and both John and I thought that it would be a great idea. Contact was made with Kim Rhodes from Austravel and slowly the event grew. Western 4W Driver #119

As well as enjoying 4W driving and camping, I am also an avid photographer and I knew there would be lots of opportunities for some great photography up there, so I spoke with John and it was decided to invite members of the Rockingham Photography Club (of which I am a member) along to the event. Now the event was getting bigger and lots of interest was coming from all four organisations. It was decided that we would have activities on in the mornings and keep the afternoons free as this would allow participants the opportunity to attend activities if they wanted to or to do their own thing. I also asked Tina Bryce (Mallee Girl Designs) who is a member of our club and an artist, if she would like to run some art classes for those interested, as having different and diverse activities would allow everyone to enjoy the weekend. The planned activities included talks on photography, drones, a Travel Buddy Oven cooking demonstration, vehicle fault finding, HF radios and remote communications, an introduction into body awareness and pain management, solar power management and 12 volt systems. Track Care decided that while they were there it would be a great opportunity to visit Woolgorong Station as they are

involved in assisting with the maintaining of it as well as having a look over the Narloo homestead to see what maintenance was required there. It was decided that we would show the movie ‘Road to Ruin’ on the Saturday night and on the Sunday night we would have a big communal dinner cooked in camp ovens which was organised by Annette Gerrards. By now, the event was growing in size and increasing amounts of interest was being shown from the members of the four organisations involved and it was then I suddenly realised how big it was going to get. Luckily, Nicki Chamberlain from Track Care stepped in and gave me a helping hand with the organisation and liaison work that needed to be done. As Easter approached, things started to fall into place, but as usual things don’t always go to plan and unfortunately for us the weather was going to play its part. I was hoping that it wouldn’t rain and we would have clear skies, which we got but the predicted high temperatures of 35+ degrees started to raise some concerns. As a result, I informed participants of the predicted weather conditions and a number of people decided that it was going to be too hot for them and they pulled out. Narloo Homestead.

Western 4W Driver #119

The predicted extreme weather warnings also meant that a total fire ban would be in place and therefore we had to make alternative arrangements for cooking the communal dinner, which Annette took in her stride.

Our first stop was Wubin to refuel and have morning tea and from there we made our way to Pindar where we stopped for lunch. After a 45 minute lunch break, we headed off on the last leg of the journey for Narloo, arriving there mid-afternoon.

Also, due to circumstances beyond Geoff’s control, he was unable to attend as he was in Tasmania waiting to get back to WA but wouldn’t be there in time to make it to Narloo. However, we had a copy of his movie, so it was all good.

On arrival, it was hot so I wasted no time in getting the camper trailer set up and the awning out to give us shade. Once this was done my wife and I sat back and enjoyed a nice cup of tea - just what you need on a hot day.

Participants had two options to make their way to Narloo; they could make their own way there by themselves or travel up in convoy on Good Friday morning leaving from a designated meeting place.

That evening at 5.30pm, I had all participants assemble in the shed near the homestead so I could do the obligatory safety brief and a rundown of the planned activities for the weekend. It wasn’t until now when I saw everyone assembled that I realised how many participants we had. There was over 40 vehicles and approximately 90 people and I was blown away by this - far more than the dozen or so vehicles we initially expected.

Good Friday morning saw my wife and I leave Rockingham before the sun had risen and made our way to the designated meeting place so that I could organise those wishing to travel in the convoy. In the end we had approximately 24 vehicles, so I organised the vehicles into two convoys for ease of control and movement. I led the first convoy and we headed off a few minutes later than planned (but these things happen) with the second convoy leaving 15 minutes after us.

Due to the size of the area we had camped in, you hardly noticed anyone as everyone was able to spread out and had some space, so when we drove into the homestead area that afternoon it was hard to gauge the numbers until everyone turned up that night. Camper trailer set up.

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Art class.

After the briefing, everyone made their way back to their sites and had dinner. Afterwards, a group of us made a ‘virtual’ bonfire and sat around talking and enjoying the cool night and crystal clear night skies. With no light pollution it was simply stunning. Saturday morning came and after breakfast the activities started, Tina had the first of her art classes and I conducted a talk on photography. As the morning progressed the other activities were conducted and while this was happening, the Track Care members headed off to Woolgorong Station. After lunch, a few of the members headed off in their vehicles to explore the station, while others headed off to some waterholes for a nice cool swim. From all reports, there was a lot of beautiful country to see out there on the old station. Later that afternoon, I set up the movie screen (a modified table cloth) and Kim set up the sound system in preparation for the screening of the movie later that night. Artwork.

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Solar panel talk.

It was planned to show the movie at 7.00pm, however the Track Care members hadn’t returned from Woolgorong Station so I delayed the screening until 7.30pm. I must say I was impressed with the setup our dodgy screen worked well and Kim’s sound system was just awesome. Sitting back under the stars watching the movie brought back memories of the old open air theatres and drive-ins (for those of us lucky enough to remember them). After the movie finished, a lot of people sat around talking and enjoying the night. Pain management talk.

Sunday morning came and more activities were conducted and in the afternoon Annette organised the cooking of the communal dinner and despite the conditions she and her helpers did a wonderful job. A very big well done to everyone who pitched in and helped, it was great and very much appreciated. Sitting under the night sky, eating a wonderfully cooked dinner, it didn’t get much better than that. Also, watching people from different organisations mixing and chatting and having a great time was exactly what John and I had hoped for. Monday morning came and everyone started to pack up. Some were staying on for a few days, while others headed off north and the rest headed off home. Despite the heat and the flies the weekend went really well with no major dramas. The feedback I have received from everyone has been very positive and I believe that they all enjoyed themselves. I would like to give a big thank you to everyone who assisted in some way to make the event such a success.

Excerpt from Hema’s WA State map.

As a result of the feedback, we are now planning a second event to be held on the June long weekend next year (2022) which will be held closer to Perth. John and I are tossing around a few ideas for a theme for that weekend and at this stage it may be a ‘bush poets’ weekend or YouTube offroading film festival. Whatever it is, it will be an interesting weekend. Thank you to everyone who attended as you made it a successful event despite the hot weather and the flies. Happy campers.

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Lenny the landcruiser By Ashley Pearce

n o i s s e s b o The s e u n i t n co 84

By the time you read this Lenny the Landcruiser will be getting on eight months old. Like a newborn child, so much has changed since he joined our family.

Western 4W Driver #119

ince writing the last article we found out that yes, the new Toyota 300 series will have a V6 Twin Turbo Diesel as its power plant. It looks, as it should be, like a totally new vehicle with many new features bringing the Toyota flagship vehicle up to and most likely exceeding its competitors' features. Power-wise it looks to have more power and torque than the 200 series ... but no V8. Do I regret my choice of ordering a 200 series in July 2020? Not one bit. And even if

I did, unlike any other time in motor vehicle history, I would make money if I was to sell. My local dealer, after looking at what I had completed in the build, offered me some $25k above what I thought it was worth! For many months Lenny had no work done and was much like how I described in edition #118 (Lenny the Landcruiser, page 106). This was not by choice, but because of high demand in the 4WD industry for accessories. After having a long range fuel tank from ARB installed, I knew I needed to get a rear wheel carrier to haul my spare tyre around. Research at the Perth 4WD Show in November saw me going back and forth between the Kaymar product and the Outback Accessories twin carrier. I wore a path between the two suppliers, and it was when I saw a couple of the Border Force vehicles with the Kaymar rear wheel carriers fitted that it sold me. I arranged with ORE in Myaree to order them in and this was the start of my long wait. Ordered in November, they finally arrived in late May with a number of false starts in between. Again, I was very impressed with the fit and look of this rear bar. As I discussed in edition #118, the modernday features of the 200 Series are lacking. One of the main items I missed from my previous vehicle was the Tyre Pressure Monitoring System. This saved me twice in my old vehicle when I punctured a tyre. If not for the TPMS, I reckon I would have shredded the tyre both times. I settled on the ARB TPMS system a little quirky, but will do the job on Lenny and the camper trailer we will be towing. On our south coast trip we discovered that we had gotten used to using drawers and wanted another set, but of our own design. I am one of those people that draws designs on the back Western 4W Driver #119

of envelopes and old pieces of paper. Initially I visited a known installer in the northern suburbs, but their complete lack of interest in my requests and customer service (could be they were so busy they didn’t care - I will give them the benefit of the doubt) saw me track down Black Label Storage Solutions. I had visited their site at the 4WD show and at the time, I think Jonathan was a little overwhelmed with my 'envelopes' (read multiple). We returned from our south coast trip in January, visited Black Label at their Rockingham workshop and got a completely different experience. Jon was busy, in fact they were very busy, however he downed tools, showed us all the options (after reading my envelopes again) and we agreed on a design, which of course I changed three times after that. With complete transparency, Jonathan said you won’t get this until early June! Another wait. It was going to be a big couple of weeks for Lenny with rear wheel carrier, drawers, new tyres and rims and then electrical work. Two days after the drawers went in I had RD Auto Electrics booked for the dual battery system. I had dealt with Riley previously and knew he was a quality tradesman and I would not be disappointed. Close to the install date I changed my mind and decided to 86

Western 4W Driver #119

install a 1000W inverter in the vehicle rather than in our camper trailer. We matched that with the Enerdrive 100Ah Lithium Battery, 40Ah Enerdrive DC2DC charger and switch panel work which includes solar input, air compressor outlet along with installing a work light on Lenny’s tail gate. To say I am impressed is an understatement. Again the workmanship of both Black Label and RD Mobile Auto Electrics was first class and I would happily recommend them to any buyer. Just a couple of young blokes giving it a red hot crack. Lenny’s last (I say in jest) modifications for the time being was to upgrade the original rims and put some more heavy duty tyres onto the vehicle. I was looking at ROH Vapour but then ROH released the ROH Hammers. The Hammers are what I originally wanted in a rim and matched with Toyo Open Country ATs (285/70/17s) the car now has the exact stance I was chasing. I’ve mentioned a number of various businesses in this article, however to clarify, I have paid retail cost and have not been influenced into including them in this article. So what’s in store for Lenny next? For now, I think we will get our mid-year Kimberley trip out of the way and then who knows what will be discussed about 'wants' and 'needs' on the trip home.

he last year or so has been one of many ups and downs for everyone in this country, as well as the world. It has made us change our way of life and what was normal a couple of years ago, today seems like a long distance memory as we slowly head towards a new future not fully knowing what it holds. For many of us, we have had to make significant changes and take each day or week with some trepidation in not knowing what is coming up. However, it hasn’t been all doom and gloom and there are now more opportunities to explore for those who want to. It also has given us Western Australians an opportunity to re-discover our great state with international travel not viable for another year or so. Now is the time to travel within our state and discover what we have been missing, so in October last year my wife and I decided to head south to Augusta for a week to explore what the region has to offer. Why Augusta you may ask? Well I have only been there twice. Once was many years ago when I was home on leave from the Army and the other was for a brief day trip about three years ago. Being an avid photographer and 4W driver, I knew that the region had much to offer and all we had to do was to get out and explore it.

We booked into the Flinders Bay Caravan Park which is located on Flinders Bay just outside of the town. The caravan park is located close to the beach and was neat and clean and surprisingly, not full which was a benefit. We spent the first day settling into the caravan park, getting the camper trailer all set up and then went for a walk down to the beach to explore. I was also searching out some photography locations for possible photo shoots. The beach is a rather pleasant one, however the water was a tad cold for my old bones but the walk along it was enjoyable. The caravan park has a lot of bushland around its perimeter which adds to the beauty of it plus there was an abundance of wildlife to view and enjoy. Each afternoon while we were there, we had a friendly bandicoot come and visit us. He wasn’t too shy of us and kept us entertained for an hour or so each day. Day 2 saw us heading to the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse which is located where two great oceans meet – the Indian Ocean and the Great Southern Ocean. On this day, there was beautiful clear skies. The breeze was steadily blowing and bringing a slight chill to the air that would disappear once the sun was fully up.

South West

Wanderings By Karl Fehlauer, Westralian Images 88

Western 4W Driver 119 #

AUGUSTA

Lighthouse keeper's cottages.

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse.

We arrived at the carpark and paid our entrance fee and entered the complex. After making our way through the main building and into the grounds, we headed towards the first of the lighthouse keeper's cottages which has been set up as a museum.

This cottage, along with all the others have been beautifully restored and walking around inside reading all information boards and looking at the artefacts really does give you a good insight into the lives of the lighthouse keepers from the past. They and their families were made of tough stuff to survive out there in the conditions that the cape endures day in and day out.

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Once we had finished with the museum, we made our way slowly up the hill towards the lighthouse, stopping to take a number of photographs along the way. On the way up the path I came across two bobtail goannas sunning themselves in the grass and then a short distance later I came across a rather large and healthy looking tiger snake who was also making use of the warm sun. I managed to get a couple of photos of him from a safe distance before he decided to move off into the scrub.

From the lighthouse we headed into town and spent a few hours exploring the shops and what Augusta has to offer. Later that afternoon, we headed back to the lighthouse and taking Skippy Rock Road we made our way around to a point overlooking the lighthouse. I set up my camera and tried to capture some images of Cape Leeuwin with the lighthouse but the wind was rather strong making it difficult to capture some sharp images, so I decided to pack up and come back another day. Day 3 saw us heading up the coast to explore with no plans other than travelling along Caves Road and turning down various roads to see what there was and to explore.

Tiger snake.

We spent about two hours there wandering around and enjoying the views, which are simply stunning, looking north along the western coastline and east along the southern coastline. One some days you can actually see where the two oceans meet but today the Indian Ocean was just too strong. Before leaving, we had a great morning tea in the café and the scones were to die for. Unfortunately I was only allowed to have two but I am sure I could have eaten a few more and still have room for lunch! Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse.

Western 4W Driver #119

One of those roads turned out to be Bob’s Track. This runs off of Caves Road (to the north of Hamelin Bay) and it turned out to be a great little 4WD track. I had seen some YouTube videos of people taking this track before and I was keen to experience for myself. The track is only short but it makes up for it in in terms of difficulty. For an experienced 4W driver the track isn’t that hard, but those less experienced may have some difficulties, so take it slow, let your tyre pressures down and enjoy the ride. One of the most fascinating things on the track is the largest Balga tree (the traditional Noongar name for the Grasstree). This old fella sits in the middle of the track and

must be at least six meters tall which would probably make him at least 500-600 years old - simply amazing. After a rather bumpy drive we soon arrived at the beach but the sand looked far too soft to drive on so we parked up and had a cuppa and just enjoyed the view. After this we made our way back along Bob’s Track and headed towards Boranup State Forest. Driving through this stretch of the region is breathtaking with the forest filled with magnificent Karri and Jarrah trees lining each side of the road. We slowly made our way through the forest and ended up at a lookout with fantastic views out over the Indian Ocean. From here we made our way back to Augusta, stopping into Hamelin Bay and a few other spots along the road. The conditions that afternoon indicated that it might be worth a second attempt at photographing the lighthouse at sunset, so we set off again to the lookout on Skippy Rock Road, but like the previous afternoon attempt this one wasn’t much better because of the wind. Even with a sturdy tripod, shooting a focal range of 300-400mm is just too difficult in windy conditions as even the mildest breeze will cause lens vibration. I managed

Huge Balga tree along Bob's Track.

to get some images but I never got the sunset image that I was after, so I guess I will just have to go back there one day. Day 4 started with an early morning rise to head back to Cape Leeuwin to capture some sunrise images of the lighthouse. When photographing sunrises (or sunsets) I like to shoot in the opposite direction to the sun as often you will get the beautiful blue and purple hues in the skies, which is what I was after that morning. Unfortunately, due to too much cloud cover, this didn’t happen and while I didn’t get any colourful skies, I certainly enjoyed the time out watching the sunrise and a new day beginning. Karri Trees, Boranup.

Western 4W Driver #119

Following breakfast we decided to head up to Cowaramup. Despite its name, it isn’t named after cows but is the Noongar name for the Purple Crowned Lorikeet which is found in the area. While my wife checked out the local wine cellar, I visited my favourite shop, the lolly shop, proving that you don’t have to be a kid to enjoy lollies. So with the car full of wine and bags of lollies we headed south to the Berry Farm for lunch. This is one of my wife’s favourite wineries-come-café and it isn’t hard to see why. After a great lunch and an hour in the wine cellar, we decided it was time to head back to the caravan park. On the way back to Augusta we checked out the Alexander Bridge campground and a few other spots of interest along the way. Alexander Bridge campground was rather pleasant but it was busy with quite a few people camping there. Day 5 was spent exploring the area immediately around Augusta and we explored some roads that took us to the banks of the Blackwood River and Molloy Island before heading back into town where we were due to take a two hour river cruise up the Blackwood and Hardy Inlet.

Great Southern Ocean.

Western 4W Driver #119

This cruise was great and the commentary from the skipper kept everyone informed of the history of the Blackwood and the surrounds. There was lots of photo opportunities along the way with heaps of bird life and interesting landscapes.

Following the cruise we headed back to the caravan park and I decided to make my way down to the beach to capture some long exposure images of the rocks and water. Unfortunately, the sunset wasn’t spectacular but then it isn’t always so you take the good with the bad and just enjoy being outside. I think that just by being out there and in the open enjoying what this great state has to offer more than makes up for not getting a great image, plus it gives you an excuse to go back again another time. That night, for our last night in Augusta, we had dinner in a local restaurant and had a great meal. This brought to end a great few days down south and we intend getting back there sooner rather than later. Day 6 saw us packing up and making our way back slowly to Rockingham and along the way much of the conversation was about how lucky we were living in this state and how much more there is yet to visit and explore. So take the opportunity and

INFORMATION BAY Best time to go: All year round. Accommodation options: Various types of accommodation available from budget campgrounds to caravan parks, B&B, motels and resorts. Recommended vehicle: 2WD, but 4WD only for off-road tracks mentioned in article. Terrain: Well maintained bitumen roads plus some gravel and off-road tracks.

get out there and explore this great state but get away from the popular spots and find those hidden gems. There are lots to be found. If you are interested in photography check out my website www.westralianimages.com or drop me a line at karl@westralianimages. com as I am always happy to talk about photography, camping or 4W driving.

Western 4W Driver #119

Giordan believes that he has built the ultimate off-road machine to escape the black top and head out bush. Owning a capable 4WD allows him to indulge in his passion of camping and 4W driving and is at home on any terrain; beach or bush, in summer or winter.

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Giordan and his partner, Maddie.

Photo: Giordan Prosper

As a nation we love to explore and we are extremely fortunate to have such amazing landscapes and opportunities in our own backyard. My 4WD My Story is a series that seeks out everyday 4WDs and their owners to discover what makes their fourby the 'ultimate adventure vehicle' and the places they have been. As well in reading the stories in Western 4W Driver, you can watch the accompanying videos on Australian 4W Driver's YouTube channel.

Photo: Christine Arnasiewicz

By Chris Morton

e describes his Patrol as being a “jack of all trades, master of none”, having built it to be capable to do almost anything without going to extremes. Being a full time university student as well as working full time, he wanted to keep his build real, demonstrating that you can have a highly capable vehicle without breaking the bank. Ensuring that safety and reliability are never compromised, everything is completed to ADR standards and anything outside of this was engineered to ensure peace of mind.

Where rubber meets the road

Giordan has chosen Mickey Thompson Baja tyres to provide the crucial link between the vehicle and the driving terrain. To date the 315/7016 tyres have provided troublefree travel with no punctures reported, despite some of the hairy tracks he has ventured down. The GU is running a 2” suspension lift from Dobinsons with upgraded springs and shocks and a custom increase to the vehicle’s GVM. The rear springs are a constant 450kg with the fronts set at 200kg.

The monotube nitro shock absorbers have gotten Giordan everywhere he needs to go and the only change he would consider would be to upgrade to remote reservoir shocks. This upgrade would only be considered if he were planning on tackling a trip to Cape York. A set of Airbag Man heavy duty coil helpers in the rear, Boss rear coil tower reinforcements and 30mm spacers in the front plus a 2” Super-Pro castor correcting bushes round out the vehicle’s suspension upgrades. Even with the heavyduty suspension the GU still 'flexes like a sick giraffe' ensuring Giordan makes it to any destination.

See this vehicle on Australian 4W Dri ver's My 4WD, My Story series on YouTube. Subscribe today!

www.YouTube.com/Australian4WDriver Western 4W Driver #119

Raising the bar Making use of a repainted Nissan steel bar has retained the original aesthetics of the vehicle, also allowing for the fitment of a winch. Giordan has decided against the fitment of scrub bars due to not wanting to contribute to major chassis damage in the event of a frontal collision. He has fitted XROX rock sliders which are attached at three points along the chassis, providing a strong and reliable addition that can handle the entire weight of the vehicle if required. The rear bumper has been replaced with a steel Rock Armor rear bar, providing muchneeded protection when dropping into holes or reversing in the bush. On this are mounted two spare wheels. Giordan has also installed 40mm fender extenders to compensate for the tyres' tendency to eject stones at high speed against the side of the vehicle’s body. This prevents the majority of stone damage he would otherwise endure. The Superior Engineering diff, rear pinion, steering and radiator guards, all constructed from 8mm high tensile steel provide solid underbody protection. Patrolapart front and rear diff, gearbox and transfer case breathers reduce any chance of water ingress into the drive line. The extreme flex provides a suitable hiding spot for a game of 'hide and seek'. Photo: Giordan Prosper

Don't look at the light

You could be mistaken for thinking that Giordan is afraid of the dark by the amount of extra lighting on this rig. Having a passion for 12 volt electrical systems, Giordan has completed all of the work himself. Everything is labelled and documented to ensure ease of troubleshooting. Looking forward, the GU is armed with: • 1 x 26” STEDI light bar (mid bar) • 2 x 7.3” STEDI light bars (under headlights) • 2 x 9” OSRAM Spotlights • 2 x 42” and 20: light bars with side spreaders (rooftop) • Custom Halo switchback Projector headlights with blacked out housings • Custom Halo rings fitted within the spotlights Side vision: • 4 x Light-force LED ROK 20W work lights • 2 x 13.4” STEDI light bars Rear vision: • 2 x STEDI 48W square LED flood lights • 2 x 6” double row light bars Cabin lighting: • Interior lights all upgraded with LED • Custom LED light strip rear draw • Custom engine bay light bar • PPD white and red rear LED camp light • Full light bar setup within the Darche 270 awning.

Photo: Giordan Prosper

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Now you are probably thinking that to power this volume of illumination that Giordan either has a small nuclear reactor installed or is towing a generator. Neither is the case. A dual battery is all that the GU requires and surprisingly, the setup is very basic. When stopped the only devices that require power are the 12 volt fridge and awning/rear lights. A couple of 12 volt plugs are also connected to the auxiliary battery to allow for powering any devices while stopped. A 160W solar panel on the roof and a supplementary 200W panel ensure that there is plenty of charge going back into the battery when stopped.

Recovery gear

Giordan’s recovery gear is comprehensive. He carries: • 4 x Maxtrax MK2 • 9T ARB comp pulley block with two winch blankets • Snatch, tree trunk protector and extension straps • Multiple shackles (soft and D) • Rear recovery hitch

• 8T ARB and 4.75T Road Safe recovery points forward • 12,000 lbs. winch • Shovel • ARB twin compressor with 3L tank in portable case • Maxtrax Indeflate • Puncture repair kit • Manual and digital pressure gauges • Staun deflators set to 15 PSI for beach driving • Opposite Lock rapid tyre deflator for gravel and mud driving The GU is equipped with: • 2 x first aid kits • Stings and bite kit • 2 x fire extinguishers (one for electrical and one for fuel) • Rubber floor mats • Portable jump starter • PDP Unifilter snorkel sock • 40L of water in a dual jerry can setup • Oricom UHF390 5W 80 channel radio connected to 3dBi and 6dBi antennas

The GU 'flexes like a sick giraffe'. Photo: Christine Arnasiewicz

Western 4W Driver #119

More power

To ensure that the engine performs at its best and provides him with hasslefree operation, Giordan has undertaken extensive engine-bay modifications. • Safari snorkel • Cross Country Scoop • Upgrades Machter intercooler • 9” fan mounted beneath intercooler • Upgraded stainless steel intake and intercooler piping (Forefront Industries) • Unifilter foam air filter • Ryco Catch Can • Heavy duty single mass flywheel clutch from Xtreme Clutch

Touring The touring setup is an immense source of pride for Giordan. He has designed it in such a way to suit his style of touring with all of his essential equipment being packed away for easy access. He carries an ARB 78L fridge mounted to a slide. The fridge sits atop an impressive drawer setup and is protected by a custom barrier. A Milford cargo barrier prevents items in the back becoming lethal projectiles in the event of a sudden stop.

Photo: Giordan Prosper

• Portable 2W Oricom UHF2500 hand held radio • Strike mobile phone cradle with external 7 dBi antennae

A well-organised drawer set-up makes life easy when touring.

a variety of essential items and reduces the need to load the full-length roof rack up with heavy items. Giordan says that a privacy/heat reflecting touring kit by Solar Screens has been a worthwhile purchase, ensuring the cabin temperature is reduced significantly. The roof rack also provides a mounting option for the fixed solar panel, Darche 270 awning and his swag. For navigation the GU is equipped with a HEMA Navigator HX1 which Giordan describes as the best 4WD navigation and mapping platform available as well as a physical copy of HEMA’s map book. The spare wheels are covered with a pair of Ridge Ryder dirty gear bags providing a cheap and convenient place to store rubbish as well as anything too dirty to go back into the cabin. Almost all the comforts of home.

The middle row of seats has been removed and a custom aluminium bench with rubber backed marine carpet installed in its place. This provides additional storage for

Photo: Giordan Prosper

Western 4W Driver #119

Bobby from LensNation filming for our YouTube series My 4WD My Story. Photo: Christine Arnasiewicz

When we started working on this article, Giordan provided us a 12 page PDF, complete with images detailing the entire build of his beloved GU Patrol. He is very detail oriented and the build quality on this vehicle is a testament to his research,

passion and drive to build himself the ultimate touring vehicle. We had a great time working with Giordan and his partner Maddie during the filming of My 4WD My Story.

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www.fredhopkinswa.com.au Western 4W Driver #119

What makes an exceptional 4WD experience? Over 30 Years

All 4WD Servicing and Repairs

KNOWLEDGE, EXPERIENCE AND PREPARATION. 4WD Servicing and Repairs

4WD All Custom Work

4WD Tyres and Rims

Power Chips

Diff Locks

Competition Bars

Nudge Bars

Side Steps

Cargo Barriers

Tow Bars

Canopies

Lights

UHF Communication

Drawer Systems

Awnings

Roof Top Tents & Swags

All Recovery Gear

Winches

Compressors

Roof Racks

3” Exhaust Systems Bullbars Rock Sliders

“healthcare for your 4wd”

2” & All Competition Suspension Upgrades Airbags Scrub Bars Long Range Fuel Tanks Dual Battery Systems

SUPERIOR NIGHT VISION As we were getting ourselves ready for a trip into the Pilbara, we were lucky enough to get our hands on two new products from Bushranger 4X4. The company is about to release their new Night Hawk Variable Series of driving lights, the next generation from their already successful VLI (Variable Light Intensity) models.

he Night Hawk Variable Series offers three models, VLI, VCT and VBP. The two models we got our hands on have a dual dial control, which needs to be located close to the driver, allowing you to control both power output and their second function on the fly.

Having Night Hawk VLIs already fitted to both vehicles, it was relatively straight forward to swap them out for the new models.

PRODUCT REVIEW By Chris Morton We fitted the VBPs to the LandCruiser and given that their form factor is almost identical to the VLIs, I was hard pressed to see any real difference in them. To begin with, I was a little unsure of the benefits of being able to adjust either the colour temperature or the beam pattern, as I rarely even adjusted the power output, preferring to drive with lights blazing, at maximum output. It was only after we had turned for home and were forced to drive through the night for the last leg that the real benefits of the VBP were forced home. Leaving Cue at 10.00pm, following the loss of 50% of our caravan’s wheels and with no available accommodation, we quickly started to run into prolonged patches of thick fog. With the memory of a recent kangaroo strike still very fresh in our minds, it was amazing to be able to adjust not only our light output but where that light was placed. As we entered the fog, we would dial down the power and adjust from spotlight to a wider beam, allowing us to throw the light underneath

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the fog further than normal and without the blinding white reflection. As we came back into clear conditions, power up, beam pattern to spot, warp speed Mr Spock. The added bonus, being able to adjust to a spread beam as we were driving through hilly terrain, we could adjust the lights to allow for greater vision. When there was an oncoming road train in the distance, we could also drop back to a spread beam pattern, reducing the distance the light was projected, allowing us to keep them on a little longer. We installed the VCTs on the Ranger, again with the ability to adjust the power output and the colour temperature. Yes, I can already hear you saying, (Yes, I do hear voices in my head), “Why would you want to adjust the colour?” Eye strain. Driving long distances at night is hard enough. Throw in reflective material on the side of the road (road signs, water, structures etc.) and the reflective light from a modern LED driving light can start to wear thin. Being able to adjust the light output from between 3000K and 6000K enables the driver to soften the light while still being able to see beyond the range of standard head-lights. Both models produce a total of 340W with a total current draw of 23.8 amps at

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14.4 volts. They come in a kit form with the correct sized wiring, fuses and that all important controller. The VCT produces 22,800 lumens (effective), without the protective covers and at 974m, is rated to 1 LUX (on the 6000K setting. The VBP produces 21,600 lumens (effective) and is 1 LUX at 939m (on spot without the protective covers). The light output of both models is very similar to the previous VLI models with the only noticeable change being a drop of between 366m and 400m in the 1 LUX measurement. At first, I thought that this reduction in range would be noticeable, however with most long-distance night driving rarely being along dead straight, flat roads, with no oncoming traffic, I found no noticeable disadvantage when adjusting the lights to the conditions. At the time of us going to print, the Bushranger team were working on the final pieces of getting lights onto shelves. If you are in the market for a new set of lights, then it might be worth holding off until the new range lands. Keep an eye on their social media and website for announcements. Night Hawk lights are available from all ARB stores and other selected stockists.

LET INNOVATION DEFINE YOU. DESIGNED BY US TO BE CONTROLLED BY YOU.

CONTROL THE LIGHT. CONTROL THE NIGHT. Introducing the NIGHT HAWK VARIABLE SERIES LED driving lights by Bushranger 4X4. Combine tremendous power with unmatched versatility. A series of driving lights with user-controlled brightness, beam pattern or colour temperature.

BUSHRANGER.COM.AU/NIGHTHAWK

Living with

CROCODILES One of the world’s greatest survivors.

By Colin Kerr

A three-metre-plus crocodile on the banks of the Norman River - Karumba, Qld.

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One of the many signs seen in northern Australia.

ith many of our RV travellers heading north to escape the winter chills in southern Australia, some of the most popular regions attracting more and more visitors each year are the WA Kimberley, the Top End of NT and Far North Queensland … and to set up camp beside a beach, lagoon, waterfall, or on a picturesque riverbank whilst the rest of the country down south shivers, has obvious appeal to us all. In these regions of northern Australia however, the presence of crocodiles around some of the best attractions is a fact of life, and their presence in close proximity to people is something that should not be taken lightly – indeed, a real threat that could easily and very quickly ruin any camping holiday! Don’t be put off though, as in some places wild crocs themselves are actually the main attraction and the more you are prepared and know about them and their behaviour, the more enjoyable and memorable your time around crocodiles will be – as long as you’re not on the menu!! Going back a ways, crocodiles are clearly one of the world’s greatest survivors. Left over from an era 80 to 200 million years ago in pre-recorded history, these remarkable creatures are the last surviving members of the class archosauria – related on the family tree to the legendary dinosaurs. Surviving the break-up of the continents on earth, earthquakes, volcanic eruptions and upheavals, the ice age when ice sheets covered much of the earth’s surface, and right through to modern times, the crocodile lives on. Today, apart from a reduction in size and armour, crocodiles are little different from their pre-historic relatives. It is only in the past 60 to 70 years however, that the ageless crocodile has received any real threat to its existence – modern man hunting them for their hides for shoes, handbags, hat bands, belts, Western 4W Driver #119

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key rings and even bookends, has seen these mighty beasts virtually fighting for their survival. In the 1950s croc skin prices were astronomically high and Australia’s largest carnivorous animal was almost headed for extinction. With crocodiles now fully protected in Australia, crocodile sightings have markedly increased since 1972 when shooting was banned, and it is confidently felt that their numbers have built strongly enough to reverse their previous downhill path. A number of crocodile farms, where they are bred for their hides and more recently for their meat, have sprung up around Australia to satisfy these market needs. Australia is host to two different species of crocodile – the estuarine crocodile (previously referred to as saltwater crocodile – Crocodylus porosus) and the Johnston River crocodile (freshwater crocodile – Crocodylus johnstoni). Whilst both have quite a terrifying appearance it is only the estuarine crocodile (saltwater) that is dangerous to humans. The freshwater croc is mostly found in freshwater streams or lagoons and occasionally in tidal, brackish waters. Males usually grow to around 2.5 metres and females 2 metres,

although slightly bigger ones have been recorded. Their diet is mostly frogs, lizards, fish, spiders, birds and insects. Although it is quite unusual, freshies have also been known to take small dogs and wallabies and for years Aboriginal people have known not to leave small babies unattended near waterholes where freshies can be found. Being very timid creatures they are generally not considered dangerous and have only been known to attack larger humans when cornered, aggravated or provoked – an encounter which can result in quite a nasty bite. Such instances however, are extremely rare. The freshwater crocodiles are easily recognised by their long, narrow snout and jaws with many teeth and a row of four large scales at the base of their heads, whilst estuarine crocodiles have a short, very broad snout and powerful jaws with only a small number of large, bone-crushing teeth. One of the best places to see freshies in the wild is at Windjana Gorge in the Kimberley. Here they are regularly seen in the water, on logs or just lazing around on the sand on the river bank – a great photo opportunity as they are quite used to humans, but like all wild creatures, don’t get close enough to scare or annoy them! Freshwater crocodile Windjana Gorge - Kimberley, WA.

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Being anywhere near a saltwater crocodile in the wild however, is a very different experience. In fact, an old timer up here used to say – “Never smile at a crocodile – because if you do, you’re too bloody close!” Good advice indeed. The dangerous ‘salty’ is in fact, now referred to as an estuarine crocodile because Freshwater (Johnstone's River) crocodile - Kimberley, WA. its ‘saltwater’ name gave an recorded over six metres in length and impression that it was only found in salty waters. This however, is far from the truth females up to around four metres – the with many living quite happily hundreds of world’s largest reptile. There are even kilometres upstream in Northern Australia reports of one old male crocodile in as well as in lagoons, swamps and other Arnhem Land still alive and well, measuring brackish or completely fresh water, and over eight metres in length. Their main very commonly in the rivers and estuaries diet is fish, crabs, snakes, mammals and close to the coast. On the other hand, some other animals that are often taken from the have even been found many kilometres water’s edge when they come down for a out to sea. drink. These large creatures, whilst normally quite timid, will, when hungry, take quite large animals from the shore – pigs, cattle, and even horses have fallen victim to these giants. They are cunning hunters and silently stalk their prey, slowly gliding unnoticed through the water, often lying for hours with just their eyes and snout visible above the water watching regular behaviour patterns of their prey and waiting for their chance to strike. They then move like lightning to grab their prey in a vice-like grip dragging it back into the water to drown their victims with their infamous An estuarine (saltwater) crocodile crocodile death roll – over showing off its teeth. and over in the water until all life is gone – certainly not a pretty way to go. Whilst Up here in northern Australia, unless you they do not generally hunt on land, it is know otherwise, the advice is to assume advisable to keep back from the edges of that every waterway has in residence the rivers or deep pools, as they can leap out of dangerous estuarine crocodiles. These the water, almost the entire length of their crocodiles grow much larger than their body, to grab unsuspecting prey. freshwater relatives with males being Western 4W Driver #119

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A freshwater crocodile on one of the islands in Lake Argyle, WA.

Crocodiles are also opportunist hunters and, despite the fact they might not be hungry, they can still attack easy prey and store their catch under a riverbank or in tree roots and come back later to feed. In northern Australia in estuarine crocodile areas, it is important to remember that anywhere in and around water is their territory – always be on guard and recognise that whilst they are not intentionally man-eaters, humans can simply appear to them as another animal, and if the beast is looking for food, the unfortunate human could represent its next meal! We must accept crocodiles as part of our northern Australian environment and with a few simple precautions we can live quite happily with them … but remember, if you find yourself smiling at a ‘big salty’ back up fast, ‘cause you’re too bloody close! Saltwater crocodile on the bank of Arafura Swamp, Murwangi Station, Arnhem Land, NT.

Jumping saltwater crocodile Adelaide River, NT.

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SIMPLE PRECAUTIONS IN ESTUARINE CROCODILE AREAS • Do not feed or otherwise interfere with them – small or large. • Like most reptiles, crocs are quite active at night – so be careful. • Set up your camp at least 50 metres away from water and avoid camping in places where native animals or domestic stock regularly drink – this is a natural feeding ground and ambush site for crocs. • If you’re going for a swim, do so only in areas of very shallow rapids – well away from any deep water where you can’t clearly see the riverbed, and even then swim in a group, not alone, and have everyone keeping a good lookout. • If you need to collect water choose a shallow spot, quickly scoop up your water in a bucket and move well away. Don’t go back to the same spot each time. In deep water, collect water from the bank using a bucket with a rope attached. • Avoid going near the edge in deep or murky water – just because you can’t see a crocodile, doesn’t mean there aren’t any nearby watching you! • Flooding and storm activity can temporarily increase the mobility and distribution of crocodiles. This means that crocs may move into places they don’t usually inhabit. The bottom line – always be alert! • Keep well away from any crocodile you see – some attacks have been caused by frightening crocodiles – they are very territorial creatures and are instinctively protective of their area. • Stand at least 3-4 metres back from the water’s edge when fishing and remain alert. Don’t stand on logs or low rock ledges overhanging deep water as crocodiles can jump clear of the water to take prey. • Don’t clean fish or prepare food near the water’s edge and don’t dispose of food scraps around riverbanks, camping areas or boat ramps. • Don’t feed crocodiles as this dangerous practice will condition crocodiles to expect food whenever they see humans … and keep your family dog well away from the water in croc territory as dogs regularly fall victim to crocodile attack. • Canoeing or rafting in these waters can be quite risky. Keep arms and legs inside any boat when in crocodile territory. Don’t swim near boat ramps.

Crocodile - Yellow Water - Kakadu National Park, NT. Western 4W Driver #119

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CROC FACTS Large crocodiles can stay under water for at least an hour if they are not stressed. Their heart rate drops to 2-3 beats a minute, conserving energy. Estuarine crocodiles hold the record for the highest bite force ever recorded by any animal alive today. It even surpasses the strength estimate for the bite of a Tyrannosaurus rex – scary indeed! Crocodiles’ ancestors lived before the great age of dinosaurs (135 to 65 million years ago). One of these, Phobusuchus was four times as long as the largest modern crocodile. It would have attacked and eaten dinosaurs. The temperature of the nest of the estuarine crocodile determines the sex of the young. Heat is generated by the decomposition of vegetation in the nest. Crocodiles nest in the wet season (November to April) laying an average of 50 eggs in a vegetation and soil mound about 0.5 metres high, fairly close to the water. The female usually remains close to the nest throughout the 3-month incubation, assisting in the release of the hatchlings when they are fully developed. Young crocodiles have only a 1% survival rate in the wild. At around 15cm in length when they come out of their shells and enter the water, they regularly fall prey to predators including bull sharks and large barramundi. Even mum will eat them if they overstay their welcome in the nest! At several locations in the north, commercial tour operators run ‘croc feeding’ boat tours allowing tourists to view the ferocious feeding action of the dangerous saltwater (estuarine) crocodiles. Using their powerful tail they project themselves out of the water to grab food held aloft out of a boat – exciting to watch, but the debate goes on as to whether this is a desirable practice. With a noticeable build up in estuarine crocodile numbers in recent years, the call for the culling of crocodiles in a ‘crocodile game hunting adventure’ in Northern Australia is currently gaining strength as a potential tourist attraction. 110

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ENHANCED VISION Olympus 8x42 Pro Binoculars By Chris Morton If you need to be able to see a bit further than your old Mark 1 Eyeballs are capable of then maybe you need to invest in a good quality pairs of binos. Olympus, a worldwide leading manufacturer of optical and digital precision technology, have taken some design inspiration from their OM-D DSLR cameras to produce the Olympus 8x42 Pro Binoculars. Extra low dispersion (ED) glass with phase-correcting and dialetric coatings on the BAK4 prisms, coupled with anti-reflection fully multi-coated optics, produce a bright and clear, high contrast image. Small enough to easily carry, the 8x power provides enough magnification for most scenarios and the 42mm objective lenses

allow for enough light gathering while still maintaining the smaller form factor. Olympus have manufactured these binoculars to withstand constant outdoor use, with oil and water resistant lenses, easy clean waterproof body and tethered lens caps. Available from Camera Electronic for $549, the Olympus 8x42 Pro offers an exceptionally well-engineered product, that if looked after, will provide years of exceptional clarity. www.cameraelectronic.com.au

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How to enter: Competition will be run in Western 4W Driver magazine and on our Facebook page. Entrants can enter via either emailing their answer to submissions@western4wdriver.com.au or by replying to the Facebook competition post. Duration of competition: The competition opens 1 September 2021 at 12.00 noon and concludes on 31 October 2021 at 12.00 noon. Selection of winner: Winner will be selected by the editors of Western 4W Driver magazine. Prize details: Winner will receive a Great Desert Tracks Atlas & Guide valued at $69.95, Great Desert Tracks Map Pack valued at $99.00, Western Australia Road & 4WD Atlas valued at $34.95 and 4WD & Camping Escapes Perth & the South West valued at $29.95. Prize is not transferable or redeemable for cash. Delivery of prize: Western 4W Driver will arrange for the prize to be delivered to the winner to an address within Australia. Winner notification: The winner will be promptly notified by email following the end of the competition (including by being published and promoted on Western 4W Driver’s social media platforms and in the next edition of Western 4W Driver).

BOOK REVIEW By Chris Morton

very now and then I come across a book that really grabs my attention, however, rarely are they a cookbook. To describe Harry Fisher’s new Fire to Fork as such really does not give it the recognition it deserves, and yet, it did exactly that, grabbed my attention and held it. From the moment you lay eyes on Fire to Fork you become intrigued, what is adventure cooking? As you turn the pages, you are immediately transported to an outdoor adventure lifestyle, where the lost art of cooking over an open fire is presented to you as an easily achievable option for your next trip away. Spectacular images fill the pages, taking you to location, allowing you to imagine that you are seated around Harry’s fire, smelling the woodsmoke, feeling its radiant heat, filling your senses with the sights, sounds and aromas of the gastronomical delights being created before your very eyes. The book begins with Harry introducing himself. This was particularly helpful for me, as I must be one of the few working in the 4WD industry that is yet to meet him (or be able to claim him as a mate), so reading his back story helped me get a better feel for the book’s tone.

Harry quickly moves on, because this is not a story about his life, it is an instructional guide on how to produce really good food. He goes on to explain some basic fire tips and stresses that this is an art we have lost touch with. He stresses that it takes practice and a little bit of planning to get it right. His reason behind the gear that he chooses to use is sound, without commercial thought, and ironically more likely to convince the reader to purchase. He then goes on to discuss how to care for a camp oven, a mostly neglected piece of cooking hardware, usually relegated to the back of the shed until it’s needed. The chapters on how to put together an effective camp kitchen and the pantry staples that he regularly carries is a great introduction for anyone who either has just caught the 'wander out yonder' bug or had it pre-pandemic. I am now feeling slightly vindicated for always carrying brown sugar when we head out bush. Getting down to the meat and potatoes, the recipes are simple, easy to follow and without fanfare. The result being an easyto-follow guide on how to wow your mates with some tasty meals. As Harry says, it will take you some practice to become confident with a fire, the same should be said for any recipe. None of these recipes would be out of place being served up at your dinner table or trackside in the middle of nowhere. If a trip out bush is still awhile away, break out the fire-pit and try some of these tasty creations at home.

Fire to Fork - Adventure Cooking

Order online from Exploring Eden: exploringedenbooks.com/shop/fire-to-fork for $39.95 or from most good book stores. Western 4W Driver #119

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PRODUCT REVIEW By Chris Morton

A GREAT NIGHT'S SLEEP

’ve slept in some pretty strange places over the years. Atop a woodpile, on the side of a Queensland mountain, amongst rocks and on the jungle floor. A sleeping bag, inside a bivvy bag with a cut down wuss mat was considered absolute luxury for an infantryman in the field. Nowadays I tend to look for the most comfortable solution that I can. Having progressed from your traditional flat swag and then into a dome swag I was quite excited to discover the makers of my most favourite tent ever, the Oztent 30 second, had taken their award-winning design and rethought the humble bushbed.

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I bought an RS-1 swag and stretcher about 12 months ago, the idea of sleeping off the ground and having some room to really stretch out was the greatest appeal. The bonus of not having to roll the swag up it folds up into a carry bag - was music to anyone’s ears with bad knees. The release of the latest version of the RS1 has also coincided with a range of self-inflating mattresses and their Redgum Hotspot sleeping bags. The RS-1S Stretcher Having a good foundation is paramount to a good night’s sleep. Oztent’s RS-1S will accommodate most adults with its generous 215cm length and 107cm width. The steel frame can support up to 200kgs. The stretcher is comfortable enough to be used on its own or as a component in, what I think is, the ultimate sleep system.

The RS-1 Swag Utilising the same folding frame design as Oztent’s 30 second range, the swag is extremely quick to set up and pack up. The fire-retardant, ripstop polyester material provides a highly waterproof barrier to the elements and the included 40mm mattress makes the swag useable in almost any situation. Complete with poles and a small awning, the RS-1 makes for a very comfortable shelter, regardless of season, weather or terrain and is designed to fit perfectly atop the RS-1S stretcher.

generous size offered by the Redgum, allowing me to get my shoulders inside the bag without putting pressure on the zip. The ample width allowed me to roll within the bag and not get twisted up in the material. This keeps a warm pocket of air around you, maintained by your own body heat and makes for a great night’s sleep. The addition of six HotSpot pockets (and three HotSpots included with the sleeping bag) allows you to add some extra warmth on those really cold nights.

Stratus XL Single Self-Inflating Mattress OK, so confession time. I have never been a fan of air mattresses … until now. Either directly on the ground or sitting on top of a stretcher, these mattresses work. I am yet to find a self-inflating mattress that fully inflates however six pumps using the X-Hale carry bag (the clever carry bag also acts as the pump) and the mattress is ready for even my 6’2”, 110kg bulk. When paired with the RS-1S stretcher the comfort levels are almost on par with my bed at home. Laying either on my side or back was equally comfortable. The added insulation provided by the 10cm of AeroFrame foam was noticeable during quite chilly nights in the Pilbara wilderness. Deflation is achieved simply by unscrewing the cap, flicking the valve over and rolling the mattress up.

Redgum Hotspot Heated Sleeping Bag XL On a recent trip to the Pilbara I initially resorted to my trusty -10 degrees lightweight military sleeping bag … and froze. The next night I opted to try out Oztent’s Redgum Hotspot. The key difference would be the

HotSpot Pouch The idea of being able to click a little metal disk, inside a translucent pouch, filled with some weird looking substance and producing heat was a little bit foreign to me on first inspection but, holy cow, they work. These little wonders of modern chemical engineering do exactly what they say they will. Click the disk and enjoy an hour of joyous warmth. Slip them into the HotSpot pockets of the Redgum sleeping bag, inside your jacket or even behind your lower back (when sitting around the fire) and revel in the warming goodness. Resetting them is simply a matter of dropping them in their draw-string bag and boiling them for 5 minutes. The Hotspot Pouch is rated for up to 500 uses. Rolling out a made-up swag is going to be slightly quicker and for many, will suffice. For those that seek an extra level of comfort and an extremely versatile sleeping setup, then the Oztent range is a solution well worth considering. Western 4W Driver #119 115

TRANSCHILL TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER KITS

First line of 4WD defence As one of Australia’s most trusted aftermarket 4WD brands, Direction-Plus continues to release innovative, marketleading aftermarket products designed to help protect your vehicle investment.

ne of the most recent additions to the long line of Direction-Plus products is its range of TransChill automatic transmission cooler kits. A key component that is all too often overlooked by 4WD owners is the importance of fitting a premium quality transmission oil cooler kit to their vehicle, especially when using these vehicles to regularly tow and carry heavy loads across vast distances. Put simply, a transmission oil cooler is a heat exchanger, just like your radiator, that is used to cool your 4WD’s automatic transmission fluid and is required when the vehicle is regularly operated outside of its normal operating conditions. Once the temperature exceeds 93°C, the transmission fluid’s ability to properly protect the automatic transmission becomes seriously degraded, significantly degrading its lifespan if subjected to prolonged high temperatures. These 116

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higher temperatures will also affect the life of both the transmission’s friction and clutch plates. According to Jeremy Bettison, DirectionPlus Product Manager, the fitment of transmission oil coolers is essential for serious 4WD recreational or commercial vehicle owners. “No one wants the unwelcome surprise of premature and expensive 4WD automatic transmission repair or replacement issues. Given the everincreasing popularity and heavy commercial use of these vehicles on Australian roads under demanding driving and towing conditions, significantly preserving and extending 4WD automatic transmission life and performance is important.

“Our Direction-Plus Transchill transmission oil cooler kit range provides mechanics and DIY enthusiasts with everything that they need, sourced from quality local and global manufacturers and tested to ensure that they provide the thermal management necessary to significantly extend automatic transmission life,” Mr Bettison stated. With the relatively easy fitment of a Directions-Plus Transchill transmission cooler kit, fleet and private owners of 4WDs have an economical solution to protect their investments from costly automatic transmission failures. By reducing transmission oil temperatures by up to 33°C, Directions-Plus Transchill transmission oil cooler kits offer you a first line of defence in significantly increasing the life of your hardworking transmission. Each Directions-Plus Transchill transmission oil cooler kit arrives complete and ready for your specific vehicle fitment, including the

air or water variant oil cooler, stainless steel mounting bracket, automatic transmission oil filter, connection hose, adapters and fixing hardware. There is a Directions-Plus Transchill transmission oil cooler kit to suit most common vehicles such as the Ford Ranger and Everest models, Toyota Hilux, Prado and LandCruiser, Isuzu D-Max and MU-X, Mazda BT-50, Holden Colorado as well as Mitsubishi’s Triton and Pajero Sports models. To find out more, head to: www.directionsplus.com.au and take a look at their online catalogue. Their website also includes fitment information and support, how to find your local stockist as well as a vast range of additional 4WD specific aftermarket products to enhance the performance of your recreational or commercial 4WD vehicle.

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BUSH MECHANICS with GEOFF LEWIS

The Chicken or THE egg and cracked pepper? There is no such thing as useless information. We have all heard similar statements over the years and the following very much confirms the above.

couple of years ago I was in the middle of shooting an adventure documentary in Tasmania in the middle of winter. Though only 10ºC at best and having travelled the past two days through sleet and icy road, the 1975 Series Land Rover was overheating. After two days of this, the issue was found to be two leaking cores in the bottom of the radiator. Great. We were now on the side of the road, miles from nowhere and the one thing we didn't pack was radiator stop leak. To make matters worse we only had two 500mL water bottles between us. However, mother nature provides. We noticed that we had stopped near a large clear puddle at the side of the road. Using an empty bottle to collect the water, we filled the radiator up and proceeded on 20km to the nearest town. Reaching the town we soon found out that there was no radiator stop leak or anything similar to be found in the town. What to do?

the trick, so I gave it some thought. The key thing was to use a material that would solidify quickly at a low temperature. We decided on eggs and cracked pepper. Two eggs and one tablespoon of cracked pepper for a radiator with a six-litre capacity. So, with the day drawing to a close and with eggs and cracker pepper to spare we pressed on to tackle the two last mountain ranges we needed to cross to get home, leaving a distinct aroma of off oysters behind us from the radiator overflow bottle. All facts are useless until they become useful. Scan QR code to watch the accompanying video Cracking the egg and adding some pepper.

Damon and myself looked sternly at the Landy and a memory from years back and a recent conversation with a friend sprung to mind - eggs and Ben Dark. Recalling a TV show where Mr Dark used salt to fix a cracked radiator, a friend had suggested that a cheeky egg might do Western 4W Driver #119

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5th - 7th

November 2021

McCallum Park, Victoria Park

GET THE GEAR, GET INSPIRED, GET OUT THERE!

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WINNING LETTER

OVER THE BONNET

WINS A PRIZE!

OUR READERS WRITE

Hi Chris and Karen Just got my edition of the magazine today. I wanted to tell you how much I enjoy the magazine. I used to subscribe to all sorts of mags over the years. Mainly computer, dirt bikes and 4WD. I have either ended my subscription or the mag has closed. But yours is different for the following reasons and this is why I love it: • Obviously, I love the content. Great variety, great content contributors, honest reviews, good images. • The frequency is just right. Not too often (monthly is too much) and not too infrequent (once or twice a year is too infrequent). • Love the format. The book style feels like you are reading a favourite book. It's smaller and more robust than a traditional mag so you can take it away camping and it stays in good shape. It's also refreshing to read from paper rather than from a screen and the book style encourages this. • Good balance between ads and content. • I also love the smell (strange I know, but true). The only additional thing I would like is to have access to the track files of the remote/off the beaten track trips that are reviewed. Terry Bentley has sent me a few tracks after I read about his and his mates Ian and Nick’s outback adventures. Perhaps if the author agrees you could post the GPX files on the web site for subscribers to access. Anyway, hope you are encouraged. I love your work. You are doing a great job and I hope you are making a buck, or two. All the best. Regards, Peter Lee

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You've won a BarBokQ Medium Grill with Canvas Bag valued at $148.95 thanks to

Hi Peter

. Thanks for the vote of confidence improve to s way for ing We are always look and ers read our to r offe the content we es etim som we k bac feed lar without regu s. elve ours ss gue second for making We have been looking at options e that hav to plan GPX files available and available soon. P.S. We love the smell too : )

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PO Box 50, Northbridge WA 6865 • Email admin@western4wdriver.com.au Western 4W Driver #119

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• • • • • • •

UNITED FUEL INJECTION

AND TURBOCHARGER SALES AND SERVICE

What's in a Name?

with PHIL BIANCHI

Mr E has retired and hung up his keyboard, leaving a hole in Western 4W Driver magazine’s content. I was asked if I could continue with the column and I agreed, but realised that his are big shoes to fill. My approach will be to tell the story behind the origin of WA place names. Please be patient with me while I have my L plates on.

Camden Harbour

This ill-fated settlement was established in 1864-65 on the Kimberley coast, some 220km north of Derby as the crow flies. In 1864, 200 settlers, mostly from the Ballarat/Bendigo area, 4,500 sheep and 36 horses left Victoria in three ships to establish a settlement at Camden Harbour. They were sold a dream of rich soil with the best pastoral country which was thinly wooded with numerous streams and rivers. And it was only 200 miles north of Perth. The promoters, or should I say scoundrels, needed to raise capital of £20,000 from the settlers before they could leave port. They claimed having 4,000,000 acres of suitable

country and offered 200 shares at £100 or £160 each. Each share entitled the holder free passage to Camden Harbour, a year of rations, and a lease for 12 years of 20,000 acres with 20 head of cattle. Sounds good doesn’t it? The settlers arrived on 18th December to searing heat and humidity. When landing they didn’t find ‘the finest grazing land’ but thick mud, rocky shores and the country covered in stones and dust. Sadly, the settlers, unaware of the nine metre tides, left their food, stores and equipment on the beach, while setting about marking out their land and establishing dwellings. Most of the stores and equipment were ruined by the tides.

Sheep Island viewed from Camden Harbour settlement site.

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Mary Pascoe's grave.

On nearby Sheep Island there are seven graves including that of Mary Jane Pascoe. She died during childbirth and her baby died soon after. The Camden settlement was a failure as all the stock had died, they were unable to raise crops and clashes with indigenous tribes were becoming more frequent. The settlers had lost everything and a number, their lives. In October 1865, the government agreed to resettle the unfortunate settlers at Cossack. Camden Settlement ruins.

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Clearly the artist had never been to Camden Harbour.

In May 2021 I visited this remote site by Kimberley Explorer, a charter boat skippered by Greg Prouse, because there is no access to the area via land. I can confirm that they had been ripped off and sold country which was impossible to settle and farm, country with rocky ridges and very little soil. In my opinion they could not have found a worse spot to build a settlement. While visiting Sheep Island, Greg Prouse told me that Mary Pascoe’s grave used to have a wrought iron surround, however it was stolen in the 1990s. It beggars belief

why someone would come to such a remote spot and desecrate a grave. I found a small plaque on the boab. It told of Police Constable Walter Gee, aged 29 years being speared to death while on duty at the settlement. Also on the boab tree under which Pascoe’s grave sits was graffiti ‘I was here’ style, by an Australian army group completing training exercises in the area. Why people need to do this is beyond me. Mermaid tree, Careening Bay.

Careening Bay Was named by 28-year-old Captain Phillip Parker King during his third survey of the northwest of Australia in 1820. Before departing Sydney Cove and in preparation for the journey his ship the Mermaid was careened, recoppered and caulked and then it was immersed in water for several days to destroy the cockroach and rat infestations. This attempt at ‘fumigation’ didn’t work, the cockroaches and rats soon reappeared. His Majesty’s Cutter the Mermaid sailed north on 14th June 1820. While heading up the east coast she ran aground at Bowen, the damage was extensive but repairable. In September 1820, while surveying between Admiralty Gulf and Brunswick Sound on the Kimberley coast she began leaking badly. She beached near Port Nelson. The crew spent ten days repairing her. Leaving the Kimberley, King sailed southward around the coast, across the Great Australian Bight to Sydney Cove, arriving on 9th December. He nearly did not make it; the Mermaid was almost wrecked off Botany Bay.

While they were at Careening Bay the ship’s carpenter blazed, in large letters, a nearby twin boab 'HMC Mermaid 1820'. This blaze was rediscovered in 1984. I visited this remote spot in May 2021 by the charter boat Kimberley Explorer. The blaze was still clearly visible and a raised walkway, constructed by Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions, protects the tree from people getting too close and compacting the soil around it. It’s a great site to visit and it isn’t far from the beach, but don’t swim there as you could be dinner for the snappy handbags or men in grey suits. Thankfully, Careening Bay is so remote no one has engraved the tree with ‘I was here’ type graffiti and long may it remain so. Who was Phillip Parker King? He was an amazing navigator, born on Norfolk Island in 1791 (yes Norfolk Island). He was schooled in England, joined the Royal Navy in 1807 and was a lieutenant by 1814. Between 1817 and 1822 he undertook four major voyages surveying Australia’s waters and coastline. He is without doubt an unsung hero in Australia’s exploration history. Western 4W Driver #119

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I DON'T NEED A DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM

was in my local shopping centre carpark loading supplies into my 100 Series for a trip when I was approached by a very enthusiastic chap, a real estate agent. He was attracted by the Work Completed Canning livery down both sides and asked, what that was about and about 4WD setups. I explained that it was a book on the history of the CSR and that I was the author. I then explained my vehicle set up and why I thought certain items were necessary for my use. Soon much discussion centred on my Redarc BCDC smart charger battery isolator. He seemed concerned about splitting his 100 Series factory set up of two starting batteries, into one starting battery and one auxiliary battery. I explained how mine worked and what ran off the auxiliary battery, adding I didn’t have any problems and that it was now a common modification on 200 Series Cruisers as well. He still had doubt on his face. He then said he wanted to travel the CSR with his wife and daughter but was considering not having a second battery. "I’ll just run my Engel off the starting battery overnight and in the morning I’ll start the vehicle with a portable jump starter," he said.

Redarc BCDC1240D. Photo: Redarc

You could have knocked me over with a feather. An image of a turkey was starting to form in my mind, but I quickly dismissed it because that would be disparaging to turkeys. I then endeavoured to explain the risks of not having an isolated battery but still running a fridge, especially for a trip such as the CSR. He wasn’t having any of it.

Crossing Savory Creek on the Canning.

Photo: Graham and Denise Sweetman

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THE THINGS YOU SEE! with (TRUTHFUL) PHIL BIANCHI

Author's LandCruiser ready to go.

Photo: Graham and Denise Sweetman

So, and rare for me, I shut up. I pictured him out on the CSR; he wakes up on a grey morning in dreary rain. He is unable to light the fire because the wood is wet, he goes to start the vehicle for his wife and daughter to sit in it while he packs up the camp. Turning the key all he gets is the dreaded click. Not to worry he thinks, he digs out his jump starter, connects it to the battery and turns the key. He gets nothing, the jump starter had also failed. He forgot to recharge it. Reaching for his mobile phone to ring the RAC, he dials up only to find he can’t get a signal. Turning around he sees his wife and daughter staring at him with that look. If you’ve ever had the look you know it can freeze your heart stone cold dead and in this case deservedly so. His wife and daughter had been watching him endeavouring to start the vehicle, with arms folded they glare at him, with anger and thoughts of ‘loser’ going through their minds.

Then with relief, or so I thought, he changed the subject to tyres. “I was thinking of getting XXX brand tyres, at only $250 each, they seem good value for money.” Here we go again I thought. In frustration and rapidly losing patience I said, "You’re a real estate agent right." "Yes," he said. "What’s the difference between a cheap renovator’s delight and a well constructed quality home?" The point I was making registered somewhat, I think. I then thought of explaining tyre load and speed ratings but gave up in frustration; it would be more time wasted. Folks, these people are out there, especially on the CSR. Hopefully if he ever gets to take a trip along the CSR he would by then be better informed and hopefully prepared and not put his family at risk and cause unnecessary expense to authorities forced to assist, should his vehicle break down. As my old mate Davo often says, ‘Why he no listen?’ Western 4W Driver #119

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BINDON'S LORE with BINDON THE BUSHIE

THE EVER-EVOLVING SWAG

hen I first drove into the driest state in the world’s driest continent for the first time with my family, the last thing I expected to see was a rainstorm on the Nullarbor. Fortunately, there had been a shower or two as we drove across the One Tree Plain out of Hay in New South Wales, so when we eventually arrived in Mildura, I sought out a source of canvas and bought three metres of really thick woven polypropylene. It was blue, the colour of the flimsy blue tarps sold cheaply in hardware stores for temporary singleuse coverings. But the stuff that I found was super thick and was used by the vendor to make truck tarps – the cost reflected the high strength of the product. It was more than two metres wide and three metres long as I said, and adequately covered the trailer we were towing that was stacked high with a number of household items that were going to be needed as soon as we arrived in Perth. The Nullarbor rainstorm had no effect on the load and it remained completely dry during all the rest of the trip. Almost immediately on arrival in Perth I was sent to the Kimberley on fieldwork. This was a trip well away from civilisation as it is known in that part of the state and the accommodation arrangements were going to be camping in a swag. As I had no regular swag with me in Perth, I rolled a piece of foam, a calico mattress cover and a blanket in the sheet of blue truck tarp and tied it all into a heavy but neat bundle with a rope. This served as a great swag and the first thing that my mate noticed when I rolled it out on our first camp night was that the plastic surface of my swag resisted the prickly little seeds known colloquially as 'Bogan Fleas.' I could walk around on

the swag cover with impunity and with bare feet, or even with a pair of socks on and the prickles beneath the swag could not penetrate. For anyone that is botanically inclined, I can tell you that the Bogan Fleas that we encountered had other names like Hairy Burr-daisy, and Calotis hispidula. My mate, whose swag cover consisted of a sheet of rather worn canvas had no such luxury – when he walked around on his swag cover in bare feet the Bogan Fleas pushed their mass of spines up through the canvas and caused distress unless he walked on his foam mattress. He didn’t like to do that. And to make matters worse, when he rolled up his swag in the morning, the Bogan Fleas had to be brushed off with a leafy twig otherwise they would remain on the canvas to be pests again the next night. Pity help the sleeper if one of these fleas got inside the swag! When we returned to Perth, the first thing that my mate did was head to Wellington Surplus, which was a camping store located on the corner of Wellington and Pier Streets in the city but closed down in 2017. It was about the easiest place to find camping gear in the late 1980s in which this story begins. He bought a flash swag that had press-studs and a zip down one side of the canvas sheet and flaps sewn in at the ends to hold the mandatory foam mattress in place. Best of all, the new canvas was not only waterproof, but it was also resistant to the spikes of Bogan Fleas. For style and tradition, it put my sheet of blue truck tarp to shame. After some months in use as a swag cover, the blue truck tarp was becoming decidedly shabby. Woven polypropylene clad on both sides with a thin film of the same synthetic Western 4W Driver #119

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does not like to be continually folded and unfolded, creased and uncreased and the three layers were beginning to separate. It was time to invest in a new swag and I went for a big square of heavy canvas with some eyelets scattered around the edges. Canvas is good for these beds that are usually thrown straight on the ground because it seems that something in the waterproofing chemical repels insects. But the canvas has to be thick to stop the prickly things penetrating it that will be encountered almost anywhere that you want to camp. Our next field trip was into the Murchison. Once again, we were going to get to the site location in a company vehicle stacked with our necessary tools, tucker box and rolled swags safely tied down in the tray. Unfortunately, although we were delighted when we discovered that there were no Bogan Fleas at the site we were examining, the variety of Buffel Grass around the site was just as annoying. Several of the dozen or so varieties of Buffel Grass found in Australia have rather nasty spiked seeds that perform very much like Bogan Fleas. So, we decided to move away from the work area and find a more pleasant campsite, but this proved to be a little difficult. In various places in New South Wales, I had already encountered a particularly unpleasant weedy character that we called a ‘Three-cornered Jack.’ I was soon to learn that this South African native was also wellknown in Western Australia - especially by bare-footed children - as ‘Double Gee.’ Everywhere we looked we found these very aggressive customers and we eventually camped in a dry stream bed. This is usually a real no-no, and we should have known better. But we shifted to a safer spot for the next few nights. This nasty plant has two scientific names that are in common use in Australia, Rumex hypogaeus and Emex australis. Is this because it is twice as bad as any other spikey-seeded plant we have, I ask? It seems that the leaves of Double Gees were used for several purposes by 130

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some African ethnic groups for centuries who may have eaten some parts, but they really had no need to share it with us here in Australia. Although the young leaves are edible, I can’t believe that anyone brought it into this country as a marketable spinachlike vegetable but apparently this is so for the Double Gee. Imagine the furore if Double Gees were listed in modern seed catalogues! And anyway, the leaves contain oxalates that are not good to eat in any quantity although they reputedly cure constipation. Double Gee seeds are famous for their powers of penetration. They puncture push-bike tyres, stick in motor bike tyres and the long spikes easily reach right through the sole of your best thongs and of course any swag cover is

no protection from them at all. A decent patch of Double Gees will completely coat the rubber or crepe soles of your boots with a vegetable covering that would be uncomfortable for an Indian yogi to say the least and are dangerous to remove around the campfire at night while still retaining good humour. In the thickest Double Gee country, sheep dogs refuse to work, jumping back on the motorcycle or into the

ute as soon as they discover the presence of these terrors. I recalled that our saddlery in New South Wales used to sell strap-on dog boots made of thick strong leather to the cockies that had Double Gees on their properties because equipping dogs with such foot protection was the only way to get them to work. Whenever I asked anyone about how these prickly customers and their other spikey mates that I mentioned earlier got into Australia, I was told the same story. It seems that all these pests from South Africa appeared after the Boer War, arriving back in Australia as stuffing in the saddle pads of returning horse gear. Sometimes they had been inadvertently included in the stuffing of camel saddles, but regardless of which animal they were for, they definitely came in saddles. It seems such a good story that I find it hard to argue against this state of origin. However, having come from a long line of saddlers and knowing something about the trade, I am disinclined to believe that any rightminded saddler would be stuffing these pests into the pads of a saddle no matter whether for a horse, donkey or camel. I can just imagine the reaction of the animal if the burrs worked their way down against their back – and I know that was not the way that rodeo animals were taught to buck. Being in a situation where we sometimes employed volunteers in the field who had to provide their own camping gear, I have been able to take note of the way the swag, a quintessential Australian piece of camping gear has changed over the years. Strong canvas and press-studs to reinforce sturdy zippers have been around for a long time, but I noticed a change developing. Instead of the flap of canvas at the headend of the swag just being tossed over your head when you were inside, swags started to come with a way of pegging out the flap so that it was off your face. Gradually, these flaps developed a peak which meant that the head of the swag had to be tied to something like the ‘roo’ bar of the vehicle or a convenient tree if the

swag was to be erected properly. I thought that things might end there, but these was more to come. My sheet of blue truck tarp was completely outdated and the time had come to invest in a new house for the bush. Well, the choice at the first camping store I visited came down to a swag that was much like a slender tent. It needed a peg at the foot end and a pole at the head end to make it stand up correctly. It had a little gauze window at the foot end and a zippered flyscreen at the head end. This style was a bit too flash for me, and I searched for something a little simpler. Eventually I found someone that would sell me a swag that was more like the oldfashioned ones with just a zip and pressstuds along one edge. The salesperson, looking for an extra sale asked me if I had ever seen a ‘bivvy-bag’ and I had to admit that I had not. "Shove one of those down inside it and you’ll never have another sleepless night caused by mozzies or rain", he said. Intrigued, I had him show me this magical object. It was made from something called ‘Gore-Tex’ but in spite of that, its most appealing characteristic was that it could not be seen when it was inside the swag, which from the outside still looked like something that any self-respecting drover might have. This new-fangled object proved its worth the first time we camped in the Pilbara after rain. The hordes of sand-flies were kept at bay by the fine gauze window and although I awoke after a good night’s sleep in a puddle of water, I was snug and dry inside. It wasn’t Double Gee proof but did protect against Bogan Fleas. And there the evolution of the swag remained. I have never favoured the flimsy sheets of synthetic material used by ‘lightweight’ campers, but then I don’t carry my swag on my back. I can’t guess what things would come to if I did have to carry one. But my preference would be to camp by the vehicle until I was found. And therein lies another story …

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LET'S GO GEO-TOURING with SHANE THE SHARKCAVER

FLYIN' THROUGH THE GOLDFIELDS

aster is a great time to head into the Goldfields region to try to avoid the ever-increasing crowds that we see on long weekends these days. Lucky for me, I had an extended 10 day break to explore some old favourites and visit some new sites as well. I planned to pay homage to the guys that left a cairn marking the landing site of a meteorite and knock off a geocache or two on the trip as well. What follows is an account of 10 days exploration in some remarkable places, some seen before, others new to me.

The tracks were dusty as hell - powdered iron leaving billowing clouds in our wake. The dry wheel ruts are a warning to not be out here when it’s wet. The convoy was some distance apart owing to the dust as we pushed on to the east for Pittosporum rock. A large Pittosporum tree beside the track, blazed with 'LC' and a 'D', marked our arrival. A small stagnant pool can be found at the base, the remaining holes in the rock are dry. Searching the ground to the north, Starry skies at the Helena and Aurora Range.

After a late start on Good Friday, I met up with an old mate, Steve and his family. We were going to travel together for three days and then I would be on my own. Dropping in at Merredin, we inadvertently caught up with Truthful Phil and his 4WD club. After sharing some reconnaissance, we also caught up with Duncan from Track Care. Our plan was to head for the Helena and Aurora Range tonight and Duncan would tag along with us. After a slow meander from Southern Cross we stopped at Bungalbin Hill for a break. Getting out of the car, it was unseasonably hot - 40 in the shade and the flies were ringing in our ears. Out came the fly nets to provide some relief. Ascending the summit of the range for sunset, we made our way back down the hill in the dark for camp. A cooling ale and a pleasant night by the fire was had by all. With crystal skies above, it was the perfect opportunity to get some astrophotography shots in. The rising of the sun in the morning heralded the dawn of the dreaded flies. With breakfast completed, we packed the vehicles to get back onto the dirt tracks. Western 4W Driver #119

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we found evidence of cattlemen being here some time ago. Maybe they are the reason for the blazes in the tree? We crossed the Hunt Range and on the other side we arrived at a much larger outcrop – Kurrajong Rock. Again, apart from a small stagnant pool, the rock was dry. With our exploration here done, we headed further east for Curara Soak. Here we struck a small hiccup: a 'road closed' sign. Sandalwood cutting contractors had made a large camp to the east and closed the road. Sandalwood is big business and highly regulated. The Forest Products Commission sold 2,000 tonnes last year for 17 million dollars. Big money in anyone’s language. Calling up on the UHF, we made our way to the large camp and explained our intended route. Permission was then given for us to continue on. We arrived at the soak, a large cleared area, and went on foot to locate the well. It had been a while since I was last here, and of course, I went the wrong way. Never mind, pretty soon one of the party shouts, “over here” and I rediscovered the stonewalled well, it being dry. Curara Soak.

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Further east, we made our way through majestic salmon gum forest to arrive at Yowie Rock for a spot of lunch. The gullwing doors of the D-Max made a nice shady spot to get some reprieve from the hot sun.

A spot of lunch anyone?

The adventurous part of the day now done, we got back onto gazetted (gravel) roads and made our way for the evening’s destination: Lake Ballard. The sculptures are fantastic and this place never seems to lose its appeal. Even when there are quite a few people camped here.

With the clear, cloudless night sky, another opportunity for some astro presented itself, so I socially isolated from the others sitting by the fire and sat in the dark on my own, in the middle of a dry salt lake. The ohhs and ahhs from the mob when I returned must mean it was all worth it.

Tilting at windmills?

Come the morning, my mate Steve decided to head for Kalgoorlie as he had to be home in a couple of days. That left me with an open book to explore on my own. I decided to head for Copperfield to pick up my first geocache for the trip, on the way, detouring for Fountain Spring gnamma hole. Here I found another stagnant pool with very little water. Upon arrival at Copperfield, a large headframe presented itself. It’s a good place to spend a while exploring the old mining camp.

The Copperfield headframe.

Lake Ballard camp.

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Camp at Illaara.

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Now travelling on roads unexplored, I pushed on to the west, hoping to be able to get to an abandoned homestead, Illaara. I was in luck, the old mining road wasn’t too bad and soon enough I found myself on an old sandalwood cutter's road, not shown on my dated maps. The unmaintained road is almost a highway. A short, extremely soft and dusty road turns to the west here for the homestead, where I found the ruins to photograph. Another cloudless night presented itself, and both the homestead ruins and the '54 Desoto got the astrophotography treatment. Morning dawned once again to the sound of those blasted flies, well before the first rays of the sun hit camp. With the temperature slowly rising and now on the move again, the sandalwood cutter's road The 1954 Desoto quietly losing ions to the atmosphere.

Illaara ruins.

took me directly to the Evanston/Menzies Road as I had predicted it would. From here it’s a short trip to Hospital Rocks. The flies, the temperature and the increasing wind stopped me from exploring on foot as much as I would have liked. I noted high rocky outcrops stretching some distance to the north west, something to explore in more detail with better weather on hand. A short hop further west brought me to Johnston’s tank. To my horror, I was shocked by the degradation of the tank since my last visit. The roof structure had collapsed, and I guess it’s only a matter of time before the bush reclaims all in its path. I’m just glad I get out to some of these areas before they are gone, so I can photograph these icons for the future. Johnston's tank.

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overlooking the rocky outcrop. Here I finally found a source of water of reasonable substance. Tadpoles aplenty in various stages of growth, it’s amazing to see how a little water can bring so much life to an arid landscape.

Mt Elvire station.

From here I headed to an old favourite, Mt Elvire station - a 60km trip to the north to an abandoned homestead now managed by DBCA. Arriving early afternoon, I explored the homestead buildings once again, signed the logbook and prepared for the evening. I noted that the main homestead doors have now been removed and can only wonder what impact this will have on the building’s longevity. I planned the next day to be a short touring and exploring day in preparation for bigger things to come the day after. I stopped at Elvire Rocks to see if I could find some modern gravestones once again. Memory hasn’t eluded me yet and soon enough I had the graves found. I paid my respects to these modernday pioneers, the McLaughlins, whom must have run this pastoral lease before DBCA took it over. The oldest headstone only some 25 years old, all I could think was what a lovely place to spend the remainder of time 138

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Once back on the Evanston Road, I made the decision to visit the ruins of Diemals homestead, a short hop away. Out of the car to photograph what was left of the building, the flies here were the worst they had been the whole trip. It didn’t take long before I called that idea quits for the sanctity of the car. Driving around some of the old station tracks didn’t produce a lot of interest, bar an old trotting sulky someone had obviously staged for future visitors. Back on the road for some airconditioned relief, I turned south on the Bullfinch Road before turning east for Mt Manning. Arriving at the base, I spotted a clearing that was worthy of investigation. Here I found a The sulky at Diemals.

How’s the serenity? Camped at Mt Manning.

flat, sandy area, perfect for the night’s camp. My previous camp at Mt Manning was on inclined, hard, stony ground. Life would be much easier tonight. Up early the next morning, I had a challenge to complete before it got too hot. Another treasure to find, this time not a geocache. Some fellow explorers had placed a cairn in 2004 at the site of a meteorite that was found in 1979. It had been on my to-do list for a decade and today was to be the day. I had attempted it some six years earlier but was beaten by the amount of daylight available and the tightness of the track. It was vehicle destroying. The guys that laid that cairn took out five tyres getting in and back out. This time I planned to walk in. By 8.00am I had hit the track junction with the shot line that heads north up the eastern side of the range. It was already warm. The further in I got, the more I realised something had changed. At some stage since I was last here, the track had been cleared. Here I was on foot, solo in the middle of nowhere, only to realise I could have driven this track now. Oh well, everyone loves a good challenge.

Let the challenge begin.

Within an hour and a half, I was at the site of the cairn. What a sense of elation this was to me. In the 17 years since it was placed, there had only been 12 visitors to the site not including the placement party. I offer the greatest appreciation to the founding crew for their exceptional work, especially Rod Watson who did all the work to make this happen. A special mention also goes to George Scolaro and Rod Watson, who over the years have shared track intelligence with me throughout the region. It is these guys who have helped make me what I am, and I thank them dearly for that. Vegetation and tyres hold no fear to them and I will never live up to their standard. Western 4W Driver #119

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The Mt Manning cairn.

With the logbook signed I began the walk back to the car, the country a mix of scrub, woodland, and spinifex plain. Even though in hindsight I could have driven in, you can’t beat the experience of walking through this terrain. It adds a completely different dimension compared to driving. A dimension only one who has walked would be able to truly appreciate. Another hour and a half and 9km later I made it to the car, where two bottles of Gatorade disappeared rather quickly. Water just doesn’t cut the mustard when walking in hot temperatures. From here I made my way through the nature reserve to poke out at Kurrajong Rock again. If you ever get the chance to drive this track, you should do it. It's not a difficult drive and the remoteness and scenery make it worthwhile. Note there is no phone coverage out here, so take other means of contact, should Murphy show his ugly head. The chance of seeing others is small. My plan now was to head for the eastern side of the Gus Luck Track as a geocache has been placed here, yet to be found. 140

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Heading south from Kurrajong through the woodlands, I made the start of the track. The first 15km was relatively easy but thereafter it changed to slow, side-scraping vegetation. It had taken me a good hour to travel 26km and at 4.30pm I called it a day at Pilaming Rock. Starting off on the Gus Luck Track.

The weather had now changed. After seven days of +40 degrees, the night was overcast, cool and windy. There would be no fire due to the wind, so I retired early. Up before dawn, I caught a cracker sunrise.

Sunrise at Pilaming Rock.

Making my way down the track I checked out the Udarduning gnamma hole. The 4WD Days in the Goldfields book covers this track and I noted there was a dog’s grave to be found. So once again, I went on foot to explore and a hundred or so metres west of the track I was rewarded with the find. I explored a bit further and then couldn't find the gnamma hole. I had no nav aids on me – yep, they were left in the car – and I started to contemplate "what if?" Fortunately, my instinct eventually got me to landmarks and I returned to the vehicle to continue on down the track. Turtadine rock.

The heavily vegetated track occasionally turned into stretches of open woodland where I made some good speed. I much prefer the latter over the screech of acacia scraping down one's paintwork. I arrived at Turtadine Rock to find a vast outcrop one could spend days exploring. But Coonmine Well was my target so after an hour of walking around, I hit the track again. Here the track changes and in places it’s like driving down a narrow creek bed. Numerous washouts slowed an already slow pace. Around a bend the rocky outcrop at Coonmine Well becomes visible. I was a little concerned because it was a week after Easter now, and the not found geocache may have been picked off by the camping hordes at Easter. My GPS directed me to a place where the geocache does not reside. I returned to the car to re-evaluate the situation and spied the low-lying well not far away. The GPS told me I was some 30m from the cache, but my geo instinct leads me straight to it. A “you ripper” moment was had when I discovered I was the first to find. Only the second first to find in my geocaching career. As a bonus, the cache owner placed a henry in the cache for a FTF prize. I gladly pocketed the $10 as that would go towards half a bottle of polish the vehicle required after getting there.

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The cache at Coonmine well.

I continued along the track and poked my nose back into civilisation on the Coolgardie North Road. My first interaction with people in days came from a grumpy old fella in a front-end loader that told me to bugger off from a disused mine I went to photograph. He was scraping dirt some 750m away and didn’t want to kill a tourist (apparently). I then made my way for Rowles Lagoon to camp for the night and found a large mob camped up. So I made my way around the back of the lake for some serenity where another cracking sunset was to be had. I was woken at 3.34am in the morning by a vehicle driving around my camp. There was no one else in the vicinity, so was a little bit Sunset at Rowles Lagoon.

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suspect. After it drove away, I got up. I couldn’t sleep now. I’d been sleeping with one eye open all night listening to the carry-on of the large mob camped some distance away. I was on the road early (seeing I had my coffee at 4.00am) and made for Coolgardie. Stopping in at the Kunanalling Hotel (the pub with no beer), 25 Mile Rocks and the ruins of Bonnie Vale, I added three more caches to my tally. Five caches in 1600km. Quality over quantity I say. With my trip slowly ending, I still had some last-minute exploration to take care of, mapping out the Sandplain Track. Fellow contributor Karl tried to find the start from the western end to no avail. Being pretty sure I knew where the eastern end was, I had some miles to travel. Out to Southern Cross, then north up the Mt Jackson Road to Kurrajong Tank, where I arrived midafternoon to a glorious day. With no one around, it was time for a tub, I thought. No sooner had my chores been taken care of, a vehicle drove up. A younger fella got out, we had a beer, and I invited him to stay

if he so desired. We lit the fire, had a few more beers, cooked baked bean, cheese and onion jaffles in flat bread for dinner and wandered off to bed at 1.00am. A great night. Better than the dealings with that grumpy old bugger back at Callion or the mob at Rowles. He too was going home via the Sandplain Track and was not full bottle on the route, but he left an hour before I did. The navigation is fine until you hit the far boundary of the Walyahmoning Nature Reserve. Here the track on the map continues straight ahead. On the ground, it goes straight into a farmer’s fence with no track visible on the other side. A choice of north or south is presented. Some

satellite images I have showed me that the north also goes to a farmer's paddock, so I headed south and followed my nose. After numerous changes of direction on the outside of paddock fences you eventually end up near Elachbutting Rock. Success! - track now mapped and Karl owes me a beer. Come to think of it, he owes me a few now. Maybe you can shame him into paying up?

Camped at Kurrajong.

in edition #115. At the summit of Jourdeine, I got phone coverage where I found a work colleague was at his farm for the weekend, so I made my way there for the night. Seeing as it was my birthday, it just didn’t seem right to spend it solo, out in the scrub by a warming fire. The expensive bottle of plonk I picked up at the pub for the occasion didn’t get touched. I think after nine days of being beaten by flies and heat, I was just exhausted. So I retired early and woke to the pitter patter of rain and a wet swag. From here, a leisurely three hour drive concluded an epic 10 day, 2600km trip, flyin’ through the Goldfields. On top of the rock at Jourdeine.

From Elachbutting, I made my way to Mukkinbudin, knocked off a cache I couldn’t find before and tried again unsuccessfully at Jourdeine Nature Reserve as I wrote about Western 4W Driver #119

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CAMPFIRES Never underestimate the importance of fire. A fire does so much more for us than just physically provide warmth. It can be used to signal, cook and boil water as well as psychologically provide comfort, among other things.

ow do we create a good fire, whatever the reason?

Once well established, lay on your larger pieces of timber for your required comfort.

Location: Out of the wind if possible.

I always place two thick sticks leading out of the fire when I add more wood; these are escape routes for any lizards, insects and spiders etc. Kindness and respect.

On soft earth dig a hole in a shallow bowl shape, about 30cm at the deepest point. Use the dug-out sand and place on the windward side as a windbreak. Don't make a ring of stones because there is no need. It is best to not collect rocks as these are the sheltered homes of geckos, spiders and micro-organisms, many of which will die if exposed or can become predator food. Collect dry, dead branches from dead trees, or the above-ground limbs from fallen timber. This again means that you are not destroying the valuable 'homes' of our little friends. If the soil is damp create a 50mm solid wooden buffer between the soil and your intended fire. Use thick, dry sticks. I form up a tepee frame using strong sticks about half a metre in length, based into the soil to make the frame rigid. This allows me to lean on lots of kindling sticks upright without the frame collapsing. Bulk out the middle of the frame with your fine dry tinder, then light the fire. The updraft is what we are after, and that tepee configuration is almost fail-safe. For excellent tinder I prefer dry grasses, Spinifex, dry inner bark from most dead trees and shredded paperbark when available. 144

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When you have finished with your fire pour water (usually used dish-washing water) over the coals and bury with the excavated sand and contour smooth. Sprinkle some leaf litter over the area and spread out the unused woodpile and depart, leaving the place as you found it.

OUTBACK SURVIVAL with BOB COOPER CAMPFIRE ETIQUETTE These are my suggestions for campfire etiquette: • The person who lights the fire, is in charge of the fire. • Never throw anything into a cooking fire. • It is really off-putting and offensive to throw cigarette butts or used tissues into a fire that someone may wish to use to cook in. Yes, it is sterile, but would you throw a used tissue in your kitchen oven while roasting the family's Sunday chicken meal? It's a similar thing. • Do not add extra wood without permission, as they may have wanted a low fire for some reason such as cooking on or in the coals. • There's nothing wrong with throwing bio-degradable, unwanted rubbish in the campfire for hygiene purposes. I would recommend having one fire for cooking on and one for the campfire. Use the campfire to dispose of rubbish rather than the cooking fire. I believe it's far better to take out all rubbish with you where possible.

DL17210

EXPLOREX CARAVANS 66 Prestige Parade, Wangara

Phone 08 9302 2295 • reception@explorex.com.au

www.explorex.com.au Western 4W Driver #119

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FISHY BUSINESS with JOHN BORMOLINI

BEYOND THE SAND

here’s no doubt that when it comes to our obsession with enjoying the coastline and all of its possibilities we tend to focus on the beaches. And Australia is blessed with some of the best in the world. For anglers there’s nothing quite like that feeling of the sun on your back, fishing rod in hand, trudging along the sand with nothing between you and that long stretch of beautiful, fishy looking water to explore. Experience over time tells us however that it shouldn’t be always just about the beach. In fact, those who faithfully cast into nothing but beaches with a flat, sandy bottom and nowhere else, tend to enjoy more of the sun on the back and less of the fish in hand. Why? Because fishing some of the

rockier headlands and reef areas between our bays and beaches and even over reefy ground itself, can be far more productive if you know what you’re doing. Many shore-based anglers are simply too worried about the frustration that comes with snagging up on the bottom and losing gear and valuable fishing time. That can be true but there’s plenty of things that can be done to lessen that sort of grief. It’s certainly more challenging and even less comfortable, but being a 'rock hopper' (even at a basic level) is worth the effort. Considering the pros and cons is important because it may convince more anglers to try beyond the safety and simplicity of the

Small rocky headlands near sandy bays often yield more fish.

Western 4W Driver #119

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This beautiful mulloway came from the surf at Kalbarri near a reefy ledge.

spanish mackerel from a northern beach but it’s far less likely than from an elevated deeper water spot.

sandy beach. To begin with there are a lot of positives in terms of finding more fish near the reefy areas or structure. Often there’s a bigger range of smaller species around which in turn attracts other bigger predators. Bait schools are often trying to find a safe haven near structure and it’s common to see bait being attacked or herded against rock walls and over reef. That’s not to say that beaches are totally bereft of fish, in fact far from it, but in my experience the most productive beach sections and beach fishing usually happen where reefy shorelines and structure are not far away. Fishing from reefy ledges and outcrops usually means having a higher vantage point and casting platform that allows for greater distance and placement of whatever it is you’re casting. It might simply be a couple of metres off the water or conversely a lot higher like some of our northern and southern rock hopping spots, but providing they are safe from breaking waves and slippery surfaces they provide a better view of things. The extra elevation and extension will often mean getting a bait or lure further out into slightly deeper water as well. Covering more water that’s deeper to begin with adds up to greater opportunity of tangling with bigger fish. It’s the case on the south coast with blue groper, samson fish and various snapper and northwards with big pelagic species such as tuna, mackerel and even sailfish. Again, that’s not to say that it isn’t possible to hook a 148

Western 4W Driver #119

If fishing with floating hard body lures, the reefy ledges and bottom pose no problem. If bait fishing or using weighted jigs then it means adapting some of the methods. Lobbing out a piece of bait on a protruding hook with a heavy sinker will almost certainly lead to trouble. Bait casting a pilchard or garfish and slowly swimming the bait back with constant movement will help avoid snags. Many of the modern soft body plastic lures are far less prone to snagging due to the hook setup with the eye tow point being at the top. The hook point is therefore upside down and pointing upwards, reducing the chance of snagging unless it’s a heavy jig head. If fishing right on the bottom is absolutely necessary in snaggy country then adapting rigs and using expendable weight is a good Using floating lures like poppers near reef white water is a good technique for tailor.

alternative. We’ve sometimes used thinner breaking strain leaders to a big heavy metal nut or old spark plug with a bait fished higher up. Snagging just means holding bottom until a fish hits and if it doesn’t pull the snag free, popping the thinner leader is easy. As long as the expendable weight will degrade or rust away it can actually result in some success that otherwise wouldn’t happen. Alternatively, in the shallower reef country, utilising a herring blob (float) with a short leader ensures that the bait is just off the bottom rather than laying there. It’s a proven approach on spangled emperor at night time in the north. It does mean being very patient though and ensuring that the hook point is completely buried in the bait so it does not catch on any coral or rock. Through all of the methods and approaches a fundamental that is often overlooked is the hooks themselves. Avoiding treble hooks if possible unless casting small weighted metal lures and if so, start retrieving immediately it hits the water, without any real pause so it doesn’t sink near the bottom. Treble hooks are very unforgiving once embedded in some coral or rocky ground.

Clearly the terrain underfoot is very different to the lovely feel of bare feet in the sand. Depending on how rough the rocks are some good footwear needs to be thought about because rock fishing or standing on reef ledges can be treacherous. Avoid anything that has the whisper of an oyster on it unless that footwear is totally closed. Specialised rock fishing treads and booties are available for the serious fishos in varying styles and expense. Whatever the terrain the golden rule of tackling rocks is to be extremely wary of dark, wet, rock surfaces. Wet equates to slippery and dark and wet equates to super slippery. Smoother granite or basalt country such as that found more in the south of WA is easier underfoot but can be very slippery. The rougher limestone and ironstone surfaces further north can often be difficult to stand on and pretty unforgiving if you go base over apex but usually better to grip. Either way if you can’t stand safely and comfortably with balanced weight on both feet, casting becomes trickier. The term rock hopper actually conjures up the right image because sometimes that’s what’s needed. Deft placement of the feet and greater agility and fitness might be necessary to get to some of the Being careful about the exact spot to set up to cast from is important.

Western 4W Driver #119

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Surveying bays for broken beach and rock is a good way to target spots.

more rugged spots. There’s a need to be pretty self-sufficient too with everything that’s needed within easy reach because climbing backwards and forwards can be challenging.

Landing the fish can be more problematic from rocky headlands or cliff lines unless you have a long-handled gaff or a flying gaff on the higher elevations. Releasing a fish to return to the water can also be a challenge unless it can be winched up or there’s a lower spot to unhook from. This needs to be surveyed carefully first though. Typical surf species such as tailor, whiting and mulloway can easily be found in the right southern sandy beach locations, with queenfish and trevally and various northern species more typical in the north. Fishing on rocky island corners and headlands or off reefy ledges usually adds to the variety however, especially with the right gear. Do a bit of research on the right techniques and tackle in relation to the fish you want to target and hopefully it will help reduce the loss of expensive tackle without having something to show in return. With some refined strategy and approaches it’s possible to pull some impressive fish from our more difficult and imposing shoreline and not just the magnificently picturesque beaches.

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WOMEN IN 4W DRIVING

Kellie Wardle

BY CHRIS MORTON

ARB Canning Vale

or anyone who calls into ARB Canningvale, you are likely to be greeted by the lively and cheerful Kellie. Kellie has been with ARB for four years and came from a retail background before making the leap into 4WD accessory sales. She and her partner of eight years get away whenever they can in his Patrol and love to seek solitude out bush.

to have a smile on your face than to be grumpy”. She goes on to say that working with a great bunch of people makes all the difference. “We are a big family here; we help each other when we're at work and get together after hours.” Kelly doesn’t have her own 4WD (it's her partners) so when the guys are heading out for a drive somewhere she can usually tag along.

Only her second job since leaving school, Kellie loves dealing with the diverse range of customers that walk in. From younger drivers who are setting up their pride and joy for the first time to the older owners who have already fitted out a couple of vehicles before, she loves the daily interactions.

When I first interviewed Kellie, 12 months ago to the day, I asked her how she found it when she first started with the company. She confessed that for a time, she didn’t think she was going to make it, becoming overwhelmed with the sheer amount of product information that she needed to learn. She doubted herself and it was through sheer determination and the support of her manager and teammates that got her to where she is today.

I commented to Kellie that every time I come into the store she has a smile on her face, and she responded that it’s, “easier

I checked in with Kellie to make sure my notes were still current and mentioned that one of the questions asked in the original interview was, “Where do you see yourself in the next three years?”. She responded that she thought that she might be able to become a store 2IC at some point. Well, 12 months later, the now 26-year-old has achieved that goal, now the 2IC of the Canning Vale Store. From where I stand, Kellie made the right choice, taking a leap of faith from a traditional retail store role to challenging herself within the 4WD industry. Her perseverance and tenacity are a credit to her and have enabled her to ultimately be successful. Western 4W Driver #119

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Come and visit our family owned and operated, independent camping store for unique and exclusive products you won’t see anywhere else in Perth.

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9/58 Erindale Rd, Balcatta Phone 08 9344 6252 campingoverlanding.com.au

GEAR TO GO CAMPING Autohome Maggiolina – Grand Tourer 360

t first glance, the Maggiolina will look like a myriad of roof top tents, currently available on the market. Its white, aerodynamic profile, windup handle and scissor lift style internal frame all appear to be the same as every other windup rooftop out there. It’s only when you take a closer look that you begin to notice subtle yet important differences. For starters, the shell is made of fibreglass, not the composite plastics used by many other brands, offering a stronger than steel, aerodynamic shell. The material employed is 3-ply, sandwiching an AIRTEX membrane, which mostly solves the issue of condensation build-up inside the tent. Fibreglass, 'black edition' mosquito nets not only ensure that pesky insects are kept outside but your privacy is assured. Windows all around offer an almost unrestricted view, bringing the outside in.

When you buy an Autohome RTT you can expect a lifetime of use due to their exceptional build quality. Manufactured in Milan for the last 60 years, their products have been extensively copied by most brands. Checkout the Maggiolina on display at Go Camping and Overlanding at 9/58 Erindale Road, Balcatta www.gocampingoverlanding.com.au

Stick it in your Skip Pouch

he team at Red Roads continue to innovate with Australian made canvas products with their latest creation being the Skip Pouch. These versatile canvas wonders come in four sizes and colours, perfect for tent peg storage, protecting your fingers from sharp kitchen knives or accommodating a myriad of other utensils and implements. Priced at $19.95 (that is for any size or colour) they are available from: Go Camping and Overlanding at 9/58 Erindale Road, Balcatta www.gocampingoverlanding.com.au Western 4W Driver #119

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GEAR TO GO CAMPING

Gerry’s Can Lifting Aid

or anyone having to refuel their fourby on the side of the road, wrestling with a jerry can and sloshing fuel everywhere is a common problem. Not having a handle at the base of the jerry can is the source of most complaints. Well, complain no longer. Retiree Gerry dreamt about the invention before taking the idea to his local men’s shed. Within a couple of hours, the first prototype was built and shortly thereafter, a patent was lodged. Manufactured in Baldivis, the Gerry’s Can Lifting Aid is available from: Go Camping and Overlanding at 9/58 Erindale Road, Balcatta www.gocampingoverlanding.com.au or contact Gerry direct on 0409 117 283 canny69@iinet.net.au

BATPUG FOOD WARMER

here is a plethora of options available when it comes to heating up food on the road and if you are on a budget or have multiple cars, then the Batpug 12-volt food warmer might be worth a look. The ABS plastic, small form factor case, is large enough to heat up enough food for two people. Weighing in at only 1.1kg, the unit has a volume of almost 9 litres, making it extremely portable. Take a look in-store at Go Camping or order one from the team for only $69.99. Go Camping and Overlanding at 9/58 Erindale Road, Balcatta www.gocampingoverlanding.com.au

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GEAR TO GO CAMPING

Scorpo Explorer Box

njoy wine? Love exploring the great outdoors? Wish you could take a quality wine glass on your next adventure without fear of breaking it? Well wish no longer. The clever people at Scorpo have come up with a tough-asnails, Australian made, storage solution to carry two Riedel Ouverture Magnum Wine Glasses in complete safety. Now you can quaff your blowsy, baked biscuity cat’s pee in real glass heaven as you enjoy the surreal sounds of a remote bush camp. Available for $84.95 from: Go Camping and Overlanding at 9/58 Erindale Road, Balcatta www.gocampingoverlanding.com.au

It’s BernzOmatic

ince 1876, US company, BernzOmatic have been producing gas torches and cylinders for a variety of industries and uses. Their TX916 propane cylinder provides just under half a litre of propane gas and can be used on any propane stove that accepts a CGA 6000 or BOM fitting. This is especially good news for many Coleman camp stove owners with rumours circulating of the impeding cessation of Coleman branded cylinders. Available for $18.95 from: Go Camping and Overlanding at 9/58 Erindale Road, Balcatta www.gocampingoverlanding.com.au

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Hearty Chicken & Vegetable Pies

would find it very hard to believe that there exists a single human being who doesn’t enjoy some sort of pie and relish in the delight of biting into a molten golden flaky mystery pastry parcel on a cold day. Fortunes and reputations have been won and lost on a bakery's ability to turn out a half descent specimen and there have been competitions worldwide since the good old pie was invented to find out just who makes the best pie. I also know of many people who construct their travel itinerary around bakeries that proclaim to make the best. Over the years I have had a fair crack at making the odd Mystery Parcel as some unkindly (although remarkably accurately) describe the humble and in some cases not so humble pie and the results have always been edible and delicious. I have also discovered pies are not that hard to make in the camp oven and with a little time and patience you too can be turning out perhaps the next best pie in your area. So here is a recipe that just might start you on a journey where the road is paved with golden flaky crumbs.

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E njoy!

CLEWED UP with JO CLEWS Hearty chicken and vegetable pies

Makes 6 individual pies You will need

3 chicken thighs, chopped into small pieces 2 small carrots, finely diced 1 onion, finely diced 1 stick of celery, finely diced ½ cup frozen peas 2 tablespoons chicken stock powder 200ml carton of cream, UHT is good ¼ cup water 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons cornflour Salt and pepper to taste 1 ½ sheets puff pastry cut into quarters 1 batch of hot water pastry 6 reusable or foil pie dishes lined with baking paper or heavily greased In a medium size camp oven, deep frypan or pot heat up the olive oil and add the chicken, onion, carrot and celery. Fry off until onion is transparent, approximately 10-15 minutes. Add the water and chicken stock and cook for a further 10-15 minutes or until the carrot chunks are tender and most of the water has cooked away. Mix the cornflour with the cream and add to the chicken mix. Add salt and pepper to taste and only cook until the mixture has thickened. Add the peas and remove from the heat and allow to cool until cold. Prepare your pie dishes by either having a square of baking paper on the inside or heavily oil or grease to prevent sticking.

Hot water pastry is an amazing pie base for savoury pies. Because the flour has been partially cooked it prevents the pie filling from making the bottom of the pie soggy. You will need ½ cup of butter 1 ¼ cups of water 4 cups of plain flour 1.5 teaspoons of salt Bring butter, water and salt to the boil in a saucepan. Remove from the heat and add the flour, cut with a butter knife to combine, allow to rest until cool enough to handle. Divide the pastry into six even portions roll out a thinnish disc approx. 2-3mm thick and place into the pie dish, repeat with the remaining pastry, trim the edges and discard excess pastry. Evenly divide the cold filling between the pies, place one quarter of a sheet of puff pastry over the top then trim or as I do just fold the square edges over to round the top off. Brush the top of the pie with a little milk and poke a little hole for a steam vent. Place all six pies on a tray and cook in an oven of about 180°C for 25-35 minutes or until pastry on top is flaky and when pie is tipped out of the pie dish the pastry on the base is well cooked and golden. If cooking in a camp oven then depending on the size of the camp oven a couple of batches may need to be done. Prepare your camp oven by heating it up to 180°C (we should all know how to do this by now) then put in 2, 3 or 4 pies at a time to cook. Make sure you have a little trivet in the bottom of your camp oven so the base of the pies do not overcook. Western 4W Driver #119

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Take a few hot, lumpy coals from the fire, or you can use bagged charcoal or heat beads and place on the ground away from your main fire. Put a sturdy rack over the top of the coals then place your camp oven on top. Put the lid on and arrange a ring of hot coals around the outer edge of the lid and cook for 25-35 minutes or until pastry on top is flaky and the bottom is golden brown. Check on their progress minutes as you may need to batch of coals to keep the constant or take some away cooking too quickly.

every 10-15 apply a new temperature if things are

The hardest thing you will find with these pies is waiting long enough to eat them without scalding the roof of your mouth. Tip. Any pie filling needs to be extremely thick so it doesn’t ooze out the pastry and deliver third degree burns to the consumer's face when one bites into it. Tip. Pie making is quite addictive and delicious so here are a few more of my favourite combinations - satay chicken, lamb and pea, cheese and vegetable, pepper steak, all of which can be found within the pages of the only camp oven cook book you will ever need. Tip. A BBQ temperature gauge is how you tell how hot it is inside your camp oven. 158

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See rugged cliffs sporting rainbows in the sea spray, the mystery of offshore islands, long stretches of untouched beaches that squeak when you walk or drive on them, water so clear you can see dolphins through the waves, seductive sheets of grey granite curving down into a turquoise ocean, tumbled boulders and mirrored estuaries, the whole panorama a scenic triumph.

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Enjoy WA’s amazing southern shores. This guide book will transport you to some of the most delightful places we know of. The trips emanate from various points of origin along the south coast such as Israelite Bay, Esperance, Hopetoun, Bremer Bay, Wellstead, Albany, Denmark and Walpole.

Granite massif at the south end of Victoria Harbour towers over our vehicles.

A myriad of intricate bays with hard crystal-white beaches curving away to seductive grey granites that slide down into a turquoise sea; Wharton on the eastern edge of Cape Le Grand National Park, is one of the sparkling jewels of our south coast. 24

ess than 90 kilometres east of Esperance, an estimated 190 kilometre round trip allowing for a little exploring, this is a perfect day excursion. But, despite the strict no camping rules, you can stay longer. The Orleans Bay Caravan Park has everything from tent sites, powered van sites and cabins to swanky chalets with views. Add to that a boat ramp, a ‘secret’ beach and a general store and you’ve got one of the best family oriented holiday spots we’ve ever visited.

constructed a temporary tramline. Although this was pulled up at completion of the contract, it was almost immediately replaced by a new railway when timber exports commenced in earnest. Eventually, the railway was extended to Denmark when Millars expanded their enterprise with a vast sawmilling complex there. The opening up of farming land around Torbay ultimately came as a result of soldier settlement schemes after World War One and Premier Mitchell’s Group Settlement Scheme.

Trip Notes

The twisting sand-tracks above the craggy Torbay cliffs are somewhat overgrown in places, however, the steeper sections have rubber matting laid down. Nevertheless, track conditions will be better maintained if you reduce your tyre pressures to an acceptable level for this section of the trip. Extreme care should be taken at the various vantage points along the cliffs. The limestone and sandstone formations are friable and dangerous. If you climb down the cliffs to fish, beware of king waves that could sweep you off the rocks. It is also advisable, probably essential, to reduce tyre pressures before tackling Port Hughes beach. City of Albany free campsites are available at Mutton Bird East and Torbay Inlet East.

0.00km

gPS Waypoints Wpt ALB 14A 14B 14C 14D 14E 14F 14G 14H 96

Zone 50H 50H 50H 50H 50H 50H 50H 50H 50H

Easting 580 795mE 577 314mE 572 125mE 569 130mE 566 352mE 563 348mE 561 770mE 565 303mE 568 755mE

• Fishing the south coast

0.74km

Track on RHS: TR.

0.17km

T-Junction at quarry fence: TR and follow fence around. (Note: Take care on steep, blind hills.)

0.70km

TR away from fence on marl road.

1.01km

Fork: BR.

Total Distance: 49km. Terrain: Tracks are sandy and tight with a few overgrown sections. Some axle tramp spots but most of the steeper slopes have rubber matting laid down. Port Hughes Beach exit will require reduced tyre pressures. OK for softroaders with adequate clearance. (Zero trip meter at all distances given in LH column.)

0.16km

Start from Albany Visitor Centre car park, Proudlove Parade, Albany (Wpt ALB): TR and head westwards out of car park. T-Junction: TL over railway line, then TR onto Princess Royal Drive.

2.44km

Frenchman Bay Road on LHS: TL.

3.44km

Princess Avenue on RHS (Wpt 14A): TR.

2.43km

0.22km

Unsealed road on RHS: TR. (Note: signpost here reads ‘4WD Access to Sand Patch.’ Straight on leads to Albany Regional Prison and the Sand Patch Road on the LHS leads to the Albany Wind Farm 4km.)

Xrds: KSO. T-Junction (Wpt 14B): TL.

0.41km

Fork: BR.

2.33km

Fork: KSO on LH fork.

0.60km

Xrds (Wpt 14C): TL onto sand track.

0.90km

T-Junction (formed gravel road signposted Sandpatch Road ACCESS): TR.

2.43km

Track on RHS (Wpt 14D): KSO.

0.14km

Track on LHS (Wpt 14D: KSO. (Note: This used to go 650 metres to the top of coastal cliffs with stunning views. It now goes in only 300 metres to the Bibbleman Track Muttonbird Camp Site. A walking trail extends to the cliffs.)

1.17km

0.69km

Datum GDA-94 Northing 6 123 526mN 6 121 195mN 6 121 823mN 6 122 084mN 6 122 194mN 6 121 472mN 6 121 741mN 6 123 466mN 6 124 759mN

0.86km 1.01km

Fork: BL staying on main track.

Latitude 35° 01’ 39.8”S 35° 02’ 56.4”S 35° 02’ 37.4”S 35° 02’ 29.7”S 35° 02’ 26.8”S 35° 02’ 50.9”S 35° 02’ 42.5”S 35° 01’ 45.7”S 35° 01’ 02.9”S

Longitude 117° 53’ 08.5”E 117° 50’ 51.9”E 117° 47’ 26.9”E 117° 45’ 28.6”E 117° 43’ 38.9”E 117° 41’ 40.6”E 117° 40’ 38.2”E 117° 42’ 57.2”E 117° 45’ 13.0”E

Track on LHS: KSO. (Note: This track goes 160 metres to a walk trail that accesses coastal cliffs. There is only room for one vehicle to park.)

Lookout on LHS: KSO.

0.19km

T-Junction (bitumen road Wpt 14E): TR. (Note: TL for a car park overlooking the beach and Shelter Island.)

0.15km

Mutton Bird Road on RHS: KSO to another car park overlooking the beach.

0.16km

Car park with gravel track down to the beach at its far end: Proceed down the gravel track.

0.34km

On Port Hughes beach: TR along beach.

1.46km

Mouth of Torbay Inlet (Wpt 14F): TR off beach onto track. (Note: If the inlet is closed to the sea and you can cross the bar, it is possible to access Trip 15 from here.)

Fork: BL.

0.67km

Track on RHS: KSO.

0.24km

Xrds: KSO.

4.68km

0.65km

Track on LHS: KSO.

0.29km

Tracks on LHS: TR.

0.41km 3.83km

LEgEND BL = Bear Left. BR = Bear Right. KSO = Keep Straight On. LHS = Left Hand Side

0.22km

RHS = Right Hand Side Xrds = Crossroads TL = Turn Left TR = Turn Right.

T-Junction (Wpt 14G): TL onto Mutton Bird Road (bitumen). T-Junction: TR onto Grassmere Road. T-Junction (Lower Denmark Road – Wpt 14H): TR for Albany 12km.

RECOMMENDED MAPS Mount Barker SI 50-11 1:250,000 Albany 2427 & Mount Barker 2428 1:100,000

4WD Days on the South Coast

Fishing

• Travel advice • Descriptions of features to discover along the way

when bearings to it were taken from Howick Hill and Mount Hawes. Shown as Mount Belches on the plan depicting Roe’s discoveries, it was almost certainly named after Peter Belches, a prominent colonist in the early years. He was third lieutenant aboard HMS Success during Stirling’s 1827 examination of the Swan River, returning to the colony in 1834 and filling the post of Harbour Master and Resident Magistrate at Albany for a time. Raised to the rank of captain 4WD Days on the South Coast

• Locality maps • Trip notes and GPS waypoints for each trip

The stand-out landmarks as you approach Wharton once again reflect a whole history of local exploration in their names. The towering granite wall of Mount Belches looms over picturesque Duke of Orleans Bay, while Table Island dominates the extremity of Orleans Bay Road. Flinders noted the presence of an impressive hill here during his 1802 survey, but didn’t name it. That was left to a land excursion by Surveyor General John Septimus Roe in 1848

4WD Days on the South Coast

Product features: • History of the area

the Spectacular South Coast

By John Bormolini

W Mandalay Beach car park. The sand tracks out to the mouth of Broke Inlet and out to Long Point are probably unsuitable for softroaders without adequate clearance and the Broke Inlet track is sometimes closed due to flooding. (Zero trip meter at all distances given in LH column.) 0.00km

Start from the Information Bay on the north side of South Coast Highway at Walpole (Wpt WAL): Head westwards on South Western Highway. (Note: The highway changes name at Walpole: ‘South Coast’ to the east and ‘South Western’ to the west.)

LEgEND BL = Bear Left. BR = Bear Right. KSO = Keep Straight On. LHS = Left Hand Side

RHS = Right Hand Side Xrds = Crossroads TL = Turn Left TR = Turn Right.

awesome spot on a rough day. Car park is very tight.) 0.46km

Fork: BR. (Note: Left hand fork goes to Banksia Camp, 2km.)

1.36km

Track on LHS: KSO. (Note: LHS track goes to Banksia Camp 2.5km.)

13.02km Mandalay Beach Road on LHS (Wpt 18A): TL.

8.43km

Old hut on LHS (Wpt 18C): KSO.

0.21km

Crystal Springs Camp Ground and 4WD track to Long Point on LHS: KSO. (Note: Long Point is 18km return.)

2.72km

6.54km

4WD track to Banksia Camp and Broke Inlet on RHS (Wpt 18B): TR. (Note: Information bay and honour box for entry fee into D’Entrecasteaux National Park and camping fees are situated here. Straight on takes you to the Mandalay Beach car park 650 metres where there is another honour box, toilet facilities and a 300 metre walking path to the beach.)

Old hut on RHS (Wpt 18D): KSO. (Note: This hut on the southern shore of Broke Inlet and makes an excellent campsite. Watch out for Tiger Snakes.)

• Sand driving ‘how-to’. 0.53km 120

Track on LHS: KSO. (Note: LHS track goes 1.27km to Red Rock, an

4WD Days on the South Coast

10.25km Broke Inlet entrance and beach (Wpt 18E): End of trip. Return to Walpole via tracks and South Coast Highway – 43.km.

RECOMMENDED MAPS Pemberton SI 50-10 1:250,000 Northcliffe 2128, Rame Head 2227 & Deep River 2228 1:100,000

estern Australia’s southern coastline combines some special elements. Spectacular bleached white beaches, picturesque granite headlands enclosing beautiful coves and bays and some of the fishiest land based angling spots along our entire coast. Chasing Whiting at Quoin Head.

Trying to cover all the south coast with a general round up of the fishing and spots is a big ask in the limited space available here. There’s far too much to encompass in a detailed write up of all the spots but I think its possible to cover the region by highlighting some of my favourites areas and mentioning others in between. Hopefully it’ll dovetail neatly with some of the trips (and coverage of tracks and trip distances) mentioned hereabouts.

Esperance to Israelite Bay: The Esperance coastline, particularly east of the town has its own distinctive look that sets it apart from areas closer to the south west corner. The sand seems to be distinctly whiter, almost like salt, the water clearer and colder and the scenery more secluded and untouched. The beaches flatten and run for longer distances uninterrupted. With some experience it’s possible to pick the fishier spots. Gutters and deeper holes, edges of reef, rips and channels 4WD Days on the South Coast

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FIRE COOKING with CHRIS JELLIE

Pondering at Pinyalling

or us, and I am sure for yourself, getting out of town is a must. On regular occasions might I add.

A chance to unwind and ground ourselves, to switch off from the system. No phone, no socials, no emails, essentially cut off from the world temporarily. Where it really changed things for us, and I have briefly touched on this place in the past, was the edge of Mongers Lake, looking across to Pinyalling Hill. We found this place by accident. Ninghan Station was closed due to rain and our other option being Steep Point was the same. We turned off the Yalgoo Ninghan Road before discovering Mongers Lake camp and pushed on a bit further, eventually finding

ourselves nestled between Kurrajongs and Acacias. With red dirt under foot and stunning views across the salt lake, all we needed was the fire going. Two years on we yearned to get back to this place. A place that, although we had camped a lot prior, really made a massive impact on us. Into the night we drove, set up camp and hit the pillow after 1.00am. Waking that first morning took my breath away! I witnessed one of the most amazing sunrises in my 38 years. I’ll say, nearly that alone made the drive worthwhile. But we had food to cook and the billy to boil. I promptly lit the fire to brew that succulent nectar most of us start the day with. I needed the caffeine after the late night of driving, plus I had short ribs to cook. Western 4W Driver #119

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We only stayed for four days, this time exploring the stunning Pinyalling Hill and venturing to the old well on the western side. The yearn to learn about this place was strong. Pinyalling Hill sits 490m above sea level and its surroundings date back to the Archean era (2,500-4,000 million years). Pastoral use commenced in the late 1800s with stations in the area transferred to DEC control around 2006. After the ponderings of Pinyalling, the short ribs needed a check. And like our intent to find a camp site, they too needed to keep pushing. The dark fell upon us as we shared a few drinks around the fire. The rich beef shorties satisfied as they always do, even more so in this location. The menu for camp had a few different items for us. Lunch on day two was Black Pudding and Prawns with crispy

potato. This dish was incredible, from the richness of the Scottish Black Pudd to the sweetness of the prawns and the crispy texture of the spuds. Even the plating represented the quality and composition. I highly recommend you try this! Maybe this is a dish that changed my perception, just like this location did those two years ago? It wasn’t all fancy pants though, the humble and underrated jaffles featured highly as well as a hearty lamb neck stew that blipped away in the cast camp oven for hours. All were enjoyed immensely. Camping, where you get to temporarily live in an amazing place. Enjoy it. Immerse yourself and think of the times spent in an area by previous generations. We live in an amazing state and country. The more I explore, the more I connect and the more I love it.

We bring food & knowledge, you bring your camping gear Practice a range of techniques Hands on learning All in sensational settings across WA Follow us on the socials to keep up to date with our adventures

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Char Bro's Black Pudding & Prawns with Crispy Potatoes This is a relatively easy fry up in the cast iron pan, over fire of course. How else would I do it? We will however, use the grill for the prawns. Whilst this will not be to everyone’s liking, I do recommend trying it, to those on the fence. It is a balance of richness from the pudd and sweetness from the prawns and a great textural element from the crispy spuds.

Ingredients

Black Pudding - Quality slices if possible. Large Tiger Prawns, peeled - again I prefer local Potatoes - 1 per person, depending on the size. Lemon #1 dry rub Olive Oil Salt

Method

Heat cast iron pan over the coals while slicing potatoes long ways into thin slices - approx. 4mm. Pat the potatoes dry and season. Add oil to the pan, we only want a thin covering of oil here, we don’t want to deep fry them. Let the oil heat before adding the spuds to the pan to fry off. Keep flipping the spuds until crispy and remove from pan and store in a warm place if possible. Carefully add and fry off the Black Pudding until you get a good crispiness on each side this is called the maillard reaction which is the reason for using a cast pan here. For the prawns, we want to lightly oil them and season in the Lemon #1 dry rub from yours truly. Just a light coating to let the prawns shine. We can add the prawns to the grill while the Black Pudd is finishing off as they will be a very quick cook! They show signs of being done once they start to curl up. Be careful not to over-do the prawns as they can dry out very quick! We want to keep them juicy to get that pop when bitten into.

Plating Up

This is an easy one here and can look like a 5 star dish to impress the camp mates! Carefully place down the Black Pudd. Give it some height by stacking the prawns on top. Stack up the potatoes next to the pudd and prawns. Sprinkle a little Lemon #1 over the potatoes and plate for a final season and garnish - I didn’t and wished I had after the fact ... D'oh. Enjoy!! Western 4W Driver #119 163

TRACK CARE WA NEWS PLASTIC RESEARCH & SAMPLING

icro-plastics were brought to Track Care’s attention when two containers of nurdles (plastic manufacturing base components) were spilt in a South African Port. At that time, Graham Weber asked the members of Track Care if they were interested in supporting sampling of the beaches to record the upcoming pollution of WA beaches. Three years and COVID have passed since that time, and the nurdles have circumnavigated the southern hemisphere at least twice. They are being found in fish and throughout our beaches on the southern coast. This year a ship sank off the coast of Sri Lanka and released a large quantity of toxins and plastics. Ocean currents will bring some of that plastic to our coast. Dr Harriet Paterson (Micro plastics research based in Albany) has been asked if she would like support in her research by utilising the 4W driving capabilities of Track Care and its associated groups and people.

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By Graham Weber

Harriet will be receiving some samples of the Sri Lankan plastic for identification from sampling of beaches. Harriet has expressed keen interest in obtaining samples from the southern coast and any other sampling that can be done on any beach in Western Australia. A project scheduled last month in the Fitzgerald National Park was cancelled due to a COVID lockdown and the weather increasing the risk of spreading dieback (a fungal disease of plants). The project has been rescheduled for mid/late September in conjunction with the Albany 4WD Club. The use of competent environmentally aware 4W drivers and local knowledge of the areas to be sampled based on experience gained while 4W driving demonstrates the power that results from combining apparently disparate interests and skills. Examples of micro-plastics on the beach.

4WD CLUB FOCUS If you would like your club featured in our 4WD Club Focus, please email: admin@western4wdriver.com.au

Toyota Land Cruiser Club of WA Toyota Land Cruiser Club of WA is the club to ‘Experience Adventure’.

n its 40-plus years of travelling TLCCWA has always been mindful of the environment, been respectful of tracks and Aboriginal heritage - it’s our code. TLCCWA is a responsible club with an unblemished brand. It’s a growing 4WD club with links to national clubs and national 4WD events. The best way to fully experience country tracks and the outback is do so with others. Members travel together for security, safety, fun and camaraderie. Our experienced members provide expert advice on how to prepare for a trip, essentials to pack including tools and spare parts and hazards to look out for. At the end of the day, being a member of a club allows you to be part of a group of likeminded people who share a passion for 4W driving and adventure. TLCCWA shares information throughout the membership on trip leading, mentoring to assist new leaders and offers training days in the complex facets of remote travel and remote trip leading. There are 4WD driver training weekends, an abundance of social activities, environmental projects of Holland Track and Dryandra Bushland to be

involved with, as well as providing convoy assistance to Lifecycle. Meetings feature guest speakers, slide shows of the month’s activities and also highlight upcoming trips. 60+ trips are available annually, giving a wide spread of choice. Then add in our high quality monthly magazine, Twin Diffs which brings a focus on club travels with spectacular photos of member’s 4WD adventures and other information specific to recreational 4W driving and camping. In fact, there is a treasure trove of cracking good things going on in the club. Every member is catered for and there’s plenty of motivation to get into their 4WDs and experience adventure with members who have become their friends in 4W driving. CLUB MEETINGS Meetings are the last Thursday of the month at Belmont Park Tennis Club, Robinson Avenue, Cloverdale. Are we the club for you? Email: enquiries@tlccwa.org.au or visit our website https://tlccwa.org.au

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4WD CLUB FOCUS

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER CLUB OF WA

The Holland Track

fresh Saturday morning at Karragullen Roadhouse greeted the trip participants who assembled for the trip briefing at 8.00am on 8th May. Housekeeping duties completed (trip sheet completion by all participants, verbal/written report duties assigned and convoy order established), ‘Trip’ outlined the mission: Holland Track signage replacement and repair, and litter collection along the track section from Bushfire Rock Road ~50km east of Hyden to the track’s end at Victoria Rock Road leading to Coolgardie, a (track) distance of around 260km. The morning was spent on the Brookton Highway down to Corrigin where morning tea was taken and onto Hyden for the lunch stop and last chance ‘essentials’ that may have slipped the participant’s packing check sheets before leaving civilisation. It became clear as we travelled east on the Hyden Norseman Road that the area had copped a lot of rain in the preceding weeks with the onslaught of Cyclone Seroja. It roared through the area at 60km/h in early April on its southbound route to the ocean. This was followed by a front of low pressure that deluged the area a week prior to our

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arrival. Large lakes adjacent to the road that would typically have been dry (or were fields) at any other time, extensive road side ponding and an abundance of green vegetation everywhere provided an inkling of what was to come. The convoy aired down at the intersection of the Holland Track and Bushfire Rock Road and proceeded to Emu Rock where signage was replaced with updated versions depicting revised track guidelines and sporting the new TLCCWA logo. Camp for the night was made at the camp site at Emu Rock, which is notable not only for the rock formation itself but for a wetland area that Hema’s Western Australia Road and 4WD Track Atlas describes as ‘the basin’. Said basin was a substantive lake at this point, fed from the run off of Emu Rock and currently complete with a pair of resident black swans. ‘Trip’ remarked that it was only the second time in 20-odd years that he had seen water in the basin depression. Day 2 dawned sunny and once the early morning mist had lifted, the ambient

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER CLUB OF WA temperature was very pleasant for driving. The bog holes came thick and fast however, as we bounced, squelched, slid, crawled and prodded our way past Sheoak Rock, Native Rock, and Wattle Rock with intermittent ‘stopping for trash’, radio calls along the way by various convoy members, halting to pick up trackside litter that comprised mostly glass and plastic bottles, cans, the odd bit of broken vehicle body appendage and even an old car seat. In many places, the bypass tracks to the main track bog holes were in as sorry condition as the main track - one example had three bypass tracks carved out to avoid the main track impediment. After a thorough recce of the options available it transpired that the main track bog hole was the most benign of the lot. Careful and judicious driving by all and great guidance from ‘Trip’ resulted in no one getting stuck, but the going was painfully slow and the trailer ‘Trip’ had in tow copped a pounding from the potholes. Signage was replaced at the Track intersection with the Norseman Hyden Road and a late lunch was taken at Mallee Fowl Nest followed by a wander around the nest mound itself before moving on. The day was called at 3.30pm with the convoy camping at a site known as ‘Snappy Gum Central’, which is

4WD CLUB FOCUS

in a forest of gum trees and offered better conditions than the previously planned overnight point at Mt Holland. The convoy only managed to travel 35km for the day due to the water build up in the muddier sections of the track and the resulting poor state in these areas. Due to these conditions, it was decided to amend the routing on Day 3 to cut out a section known to be particularly boggy. This entailed leaving the track at Mt. Holland and doing a detour down to the Hyden Norseman Road and traversing round to the Banker Mount Day Road before rejoining the Holland Track at ‘the plaque’, where the BMD Road and the HT intersect. Camp for the night was established in a Mallee forest on the Banker Mount Day Road and was dubbed ‘Kim’s Camp’ in honour of its discoverer, the venerable ‘Vagabond’. It was decided that a final decision on whether to complete the trip as planned would be taken when the convoy arrived at ‘the plaque’ the next day as this intersect between the Holland Track and the Banker Mount Day Road offered an exit route option. This point was reached mid-morning on Day 3 and after two signs were replaced and the plaque’s visitors book signed, another conference was called to discuss the balance of the trip. The result was that three of the group Western 4W Driver #119 167

4WD CLUB FOCUS

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER CLUB OF WA

carried on to complete the route and place signs as per direction while the other three members of the group elected to leave the expedition and head for Marvel Loch due to the mechanical stress being placed on the trailer, which by now was fairly heavily loaded with collected litter and was held together by an assortment of rope, baling wire and ratchet straps. The convoy split up and each group headed off on its chosen route at around 11.00am. The exit road (the continuation of the Banker Mount Day Road) proved to be a great day’s 4W driving with sections of rutted road, soft sand, mud and more than a few detours around standing water. Included in the itinerary were two classic

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winch recoveries from heavily sodden clay rich road patches. Unfortunately, no fuel was available at Marvel Loch, the nearest being 30km away at Southern Cross and as the shadows were getting long and a good pub meal beckoned, the ‘exiteers’ elected to stay overnight in Marvel Loch and head home the following day via the Great Eastern Highway from Southern Cross.

CRYSTAL CLEAR SOUND Nuheara IQbuds MAX By Chris Morton

Sick of constantly getting tangled up by the cord, it wasn’t that long ago I ponied up and bought myself a pair of wireless earbuds. When you are on the phone as much as I am then the simplicity of being able to talk or listen to music without the cord cannot be stated enough. When I was asked to try out Nuheara’s IQbuds MAX I struggled to see how they could be any better than what I was already using … until I stuck them in my ears. The first thing you need to understand is that these little black buds of wonder are not just earphones. No. Don’t get me wrong, the sound is incredible, but that is only the beginning. Setting them up sees you completing a hearing test using their

associated app, which is backed by the National Acoustic Laboratories so that the IQbuds can configure themselves to suit you best. Although they are not a dedicated hearing aid, the IQbuds MAX do allow you to customise how you hear the world, complete with active noise cancellation and high-fidelity sound. What’s even better, this Perth based, Australian company, was featured in Time’s Best Inventions for 2020, making the IQbus MAX the most acclaimed hearing buds in the world. Priced at $499, you can buy them from Wanderlust at 675 Hay Street, Perth or online at www.wanderlustperth.com.au To find out more go to www.nuheara.com

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THE PEOPLE WE MEET BY CHRIS MORTON

Graeme ‘Dusty’ Brown

t’s kind of funny the circumstances that lead you to meet new people. In this instance we were sitting on the side of the BHP railway line, between Newman and Port Hedland, waiting for a tilt-tray to come and pick up our slightly broken caravan. Our rescuer was Graeme Brown, or 'Dusty' to his mates.

the situation calls for it. The Tough Dog suspension and 4” lift give this F-beast some serious flex when he is talking any sort of off-road terrain and the Westlake SL360 AT tyres ensure a sure footing. Two 5” exhaust stacks stand proudly behind the cab, giving his pride and joy more of a prime mover appearance.

As it turns out, Dusty is not your average towie. When he is not rescuing stranded vehicles in his tilt-tray or heavy-duty recovery vehicle, he is rescuing vehicles in his highly modified F-truck. Born in Wagin, the 73-year-old has spent over 48 years living and working in the Pilbara and in his own words, has become Pilbarised, not wanting to live anywhere else.

A monstrous Tuff Bar with double side rails and steps ensure that the front of the vehicle is well protected from any wildlife encounters and the six, yes six, 9” driving lights positioned on the bar and across the back of the cab, give Dusty ample illumination for night driving. For added

The Newman local is Swan Towing’s representative in the area, and is a selfconfessed rev head, loving anything with an engine (and a Ford badge). His first car was a Ford V8 Pilot, which he paid 400 quid for. Since then, he laughs, he has spent enough on cars to own three Lamborghinis. Now I have a confession to make. I am not a car person. There, I said it. Cars are merely a vehicle, pun intended, to get me from where I am to where I want to be. That said, having a look at Dusty’s F-truck had me second guessing myself. So, lets take a look. Dusty’s truck, and we can hand on heart call it a truck, is a 2004 F-250. Under the hood, this mini behemoth hides a 7.3 litre V8 diesel engine with some serious 'oldschool' power and torque. To ensure added firepower, Dusty had the engine chipped, threw in a turbo and gearbox upgrade and added a torque converter, just to make sure she can get up and dance when 170

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punch, a 100cm lightbar ensures that there are no shadows out front. An additional four 6” work lights around the sides and back of the cab ensure Dusty can work in plenty of light if the situation requires it. Dusty says that he bought the F-truck so that he could tow a 5th wheeler and do some travelling. His 5th wheeler is not exactly a small one and complements the truck nicely. Now, you might be thinking that the Effy might get a little thirsty with its 7.3L donk, especially towing something that big. At 100km/h Dusty claims a mileage of about 10 litres per hundred. Yes, you read that right. To make the vehicle the ultimate tourer, Dusty upgraded the fuel capacity; 300 litres under the body and a further 300 litres in the tray. For those following along at home, that gives the vehicle a theoretical range of about 6000km. Conservatively, Dusty says it’s about 5000km.

Dusty has taken his rig all through the northwest, with a jaunt up to Darwin and down into South Australia. When I asked him where favourite place is, he gave me a cheeky smile and said, “The open road, the remoter the better. Everything is an adventure.” His bucket list, unsurprisingly involves another high-performance vehicle, a Shelby Cobra. He also wants to squeeze in a big lap when the time is right. Dusty confessed that he loves Newman and living in the northwest, however after spending 40 years in Port Hedland he does miss the fishing. Regardless, he wouldn’t want to live anywhere else. Thanks for coming to rescue us Dusty, we really appreciate all the help you gave us and we look forward to catching up with you somewhere on a lonely road.

Dusty loading our caravan on to the tilt-tray as a BHP train thunders past.

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GOINGS ON

ith record rainfall and record vehicle movements, there has been plenty going on throughout WA. You would be forgiven for thinking that there have never been more cars hitting the roads because of the pandemic, however it really does depend on where you are looking. Traffic data is showing a significant rise along the North West Coastal Highway (approx. 40% if our calculations are correct) with similar traffic volumes to previous years via Great Northern Highway. On the retail front we are seeing plenty of activity amongst the various brands.

Carvana is now an ARB stockist Located at the intersection of Whitfords Avenue and Wanneroo Road, Carvana is one of WA’s newest ARB stockists. Along with an experienced team of 4WD enthusiasts, Carvana stocks the complete range of ARB accessories, ready to equip you for your next off-road adventure. For those looking to upgrade or even buy their first 4WD, their large, undercover premises also holds many low mileage, pre-owned 4WD vehicles.

New ARB Karratha Another ARB flagship store has opened in WA with Karratha the latest edition. The new store couples an already experienced, local team of 4WD enthusiasts with the latest in 4WD retail therapy for the northwest. Part of The Pilbara Motor Group, the new ARB store is co-located with PMG’s brand new car sales yard at 8 Corringer Avenue, Gap Ridge.

Drifta Stockton arrives in WA About 12 months ago, Drifta, known for their quality, Australian-made 4WD storage solutions, branched out with a second brand, simply known as Drifta Stockton. The brainchild of Luke Sutton, owner and founder of Drifta, Drifta Stockton services a segment of the market who want to buy good quality camping and 4WD equipment but do not want to pay for Australianmade products. Sourced from overseas suppliers, everything chosen to wear the Drifta Stockton brand undergoes a rigorous testing and tweaking process to ensure that it will meet the demands of most outdoor adventurers.

Carnage on the Gibb Like a great annual bird migration, visitors are flocking north into the Kimberley to explore this amazing wilderness. What is particularly interesting is the speed in which many visitors are attempting to cover vast distances in relatively small timeframes. This appears to be getting represented in the unusually high numbers of caravans requiring repairs because of their transit. Darren, owner of Kununurra’s Metaland, is seeing the result firsthand. “This season, we are already repairing, on average, 5060 vans and campers per month. Most of the damage we are seeing is suspension failures as well as catastrophic chassis failures. This can all be easily prevented by reducing speed and tyre pressures and just taking your time. Darren said that a labour/ skills shortage is forcing him to say no to repairs that he would otherwise take on, a significant reduction to the average of 100 repairs per month that they experienced during the 2018 season. Anecdotal evidence suggests that the higher than usual volume of damaged

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vehicles can be directly attributed to a proportionate increase in vehicle movements, however this is not yet supported by Mainroads traffic counter stats and if anything, the numbers are comparable to the 2016/2017 peak season. Other regional traffic counters also appear to support this.

Autohome has a new home in Western Australia The original inventers of the rooftop tent, Italian brand Autohome, a name that you most likely have never heard of, is now readily available in Western Australia. First designed in 1958, Autohome’s extensive range of RTT are what every other rooftop tent currently available on the market has been copied from. Aaron Newman from Go Camping and Overlanding, the Western Australian agent for Autohome, summed up the Milan built range simply, “If you don’t care about quality then don’t buy this tent”, going on to say, “There are examples of these tents that are now 30+ years old and still in use.” Check out their range at www.autohome-official.com/en/ or contact the team at Go Camping and Overlanding.

Midland 4WD Centre relocates Long known for being located on Great Eastern Highway in Midland, Midland 4WD Centre has relocated to a new premises in Canning Vale. The new building allows Midland 4WD to carry a much greater inventory of parts and accessories as well as more space for fitment and mechanical repairs. The new location boasts three vehicle hoists (one being capable of lifting six tonne) as well as several dedicated fitment bays. The added spaces allows the team to work on motor homes as well as light trucks. Owner, Simon Ash, said, “The decision to relocate was a difficult one. We have been a part of the Midland streetscape for over 10 years, and the thought of shutting down Midland was heart-breaking. In the end though, the decision was made for us. Not being able to secure enough experienced workshop staff and not having any room to expand our workshop/warehouse facilities made the decision to relocate our only choice.” Simon was also concerned about the health and welfare of his team, “Everyone was getting run into the ground and bringing everyone back to the same location was critical.”

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CAPTURE THE MOMENT with UNCLE DICK STEIN We Love Photography

JON HAMMOND - NE WHEATBELT, WA

apture the moment? More likely capture the minute … or in this case "capture the 30 seconds". Welcome to the world of night-time photography. First things first - get a copy of Edition 118 of Western 4W Driver. It contains one of the best explanations of astro and night-scape photography you are ever going to read this side of the Mt. Stromlo Observatory and written in a much more accessible form than the dry scientific textbooks. It debunks a lot of what is bandied about and makes this wonderful form of photography open to every 4W driver. Read and read again. Jon Hammond - this edition’s winner of the Capture the Moment prize from Camera Electronic - wrote in that he was inspired and decided to give it a go. The location of this image was a secret - NE Wheatbelt is all we’re allowed to say - but we have

Well done Jon, you’ve won

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been able to deduce several clues from the picture: a. It was taken at night. b. The camera was pointed up. c. Not straight up - there’s a tree in the picture. Jon says the exposure was 30 seconds but hasn’t listed the aperture. The focus of the lens was on infinity. There was probably a sturdy tripod involved and possibly a cable release or the self-timer. In any case the Western 4W Driver #119

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result is superb, and Jon richly deserves the Camera Electronic browsing prize. Note that tree - Jon was wise to include it to let us have some sense of scale. The exposure may well have been determined by the camera - some cameras have a 30-second limit to automatic exposures. Some can go for considerably longer if you use a locking release, but you risk having the stars move during a longer time. You’ll note that Jon had five moving objects in his field of view at the time - shooting stars of some type. The funny thing about digital night pictures is the camera may well see much more than you do - you’ll only

find out what went by when you look at the result on the computer. And the camera will see in colour. If you are a dedicated astronomer or astrophotographer you may invest in tracking mechanisms and heavy mountings that will allow these longer exposures while remaining fixed upon selected stars. They’ll need careful setting-up and calibration … plus a bit of magic and words of power but that is how the big observatories do it. Be careful - you may find it so fascinating a subject that no-one sees you inside at night ever again. That’s how the vampire legends get started …

Send us a photo for some tips and you could win a

$200 Voucher! from

Email photos to: admin@western4wdriver.com.au or submit via our Facebook page

HAVE A GREAT DAY OUT!

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Break the routine and go on a day trip adventure with these 15 day trips which will get you exploring the bush and beaches around Perth. Some will test your driving skills and others are a gentle meander. We even have some trips that are suitable for soft-roaders. Since the first edition was published in 1998, thousands of readers have used this guide to hit the tracks in their 4WDs to discover wonderful places within easy reach of Perth. With each journey you’ll discover a little bit of history behind the area and see first-hand the beauty that is WA.

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Western 4W Driver #119

www.western4wdriver.com.au/shop

THE TRAVELLING PHOTOGRAPHER with UNCLE DICK STEIN

Maintaining the Calm The pages of Western 4W Driver are full of valuable tips for the maintenance of vehicles and camping gear. This is wonderful and to be applauded. No-one wants to be involved in a breakdown out on the track.

he same level of care can be applied to the photographic component of your trip … and the benefits can be just as great. What? You say you won’t be taking any pictures on your trip? That you don’t know how? Tusk, Tusk, as the elephant said you underrate yourself. Everyone can take digital pictures these days - you don’t have to be a famous photographer to be a good one. But you need to have your camera ready.

A. Select a good camera and lens. Go to the camera shop and talk to the staff about your travels. They’ll listen, because they’ll want to know how much capability you need. This may not be the top-of-the-range model - a great many memorable images are taken with basic picture boxes.

You may have to do this yourself if you are out in the bush and have been thoroughly dusted. Get a cleaning kit and learn how to use it, but reserve this operation for only the most desperate times. The sensor of your camera is delicate and expensive and needs gentle handling. Consider a camera that is sealed - there are many compact and single-lens types like this. The waterproof camera types are also dust-proof. D. Clean it again. What? But you just said … The outside of the camera is the place to stop the dust first, and if you keep that cleaner, you’ll have less trouble inside. There is a product called Lens-Cleanse - a double packet of a wet and dry wipe - that is intended for lens cleaning. It will do a magnificent and safe job of this and can then be used as a general wipe-down for the rest of the camera body. Buy the Lens-Cleanse packets in bags of twelve and keep them in the vehicle. You won’t be sorry.

B. Learn how to use it. This might mean a paid workshop at your local camera club or camera shop. It might mean reading the camera’s instruction manual. It might mean watching YouTube sessions and not bingeing on the movies. You can also learn a lot just by moving around your local area and practising beforehand. C. Clean it. The inside of your digital camera is a place that a technician should clean about once a year - if you are only using the camera in a city area. There will be dust spots on your sensor in that time that will degrade the images. Western 4W Driver #119

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E. Box the camera - even if it isn’t a boxcamera. There are water-tight sealed travel cases made by Pelican to suit everything from a cell-phone to a Sparrow missile. They can be foam packed or divided into padded cells inside. Whatever you put in them is really, really safe. Keep the camera inside one until you hit the bottom of the cliff and need to climb out of the wreck to take pictures - the gear will be safe. F. Calm Your Mind. You’ve prepared as well as you can. You’ve got spare batteries.

You’ve set the camera to take good images on the appropriate setting (and that may well be Automatic). Now all you need to do is go and see what’s out there. You can count on sun during the day and dark at night so there’s the basic lighting sorted. If you are lost, wait until the sun goes down and that is West. Put the W part of the map in that direction and try again in the morning. If you find a pub or service station you are not lost.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Tips & Tricks Do I Need a Light?

Yes, you do. The bright highlights of the Western Australian sun are balanced by the inky shadows under every overhang - and your digital camera can’t cope with the contrast as well as your eyes can. You can fool you, but you can’t fool it. Help out the situation by turning your flash on. It may be part of your camera or you may attach it as a separate thing, but it can be the key to adding just enough light in the shadows to rescue the shot. Watch a pro wedding photographer cope with midday to 4.00pm light and get the idea. Or get a small LED photo light and spritz some constant light into a dark 178

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situation. This will be magic if you are doing macro or close-up shots of flowers, fungi or rock details. The lights charge from USB ports so you can keep using them out in the field, and if you are doing any video work they will be just perfect for head and shoulders filming. The lights may not be quite the same colour as the prevailing light. Test this out and add a coloured filter to the front of the LED to correct this - you needn’t use big expensive ones. Sometimes all you need is a transparent lolly wrapper. These portable lights are also very good for use with mobile phone photography they can be hand-held as you take your pictures. And they are small enough to fit any pocket or bag.

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Working on the road Many people think that travelling Australia with their kids is just a dream. I’d like to encourage you to turn it into a plan.

’m Mandy Farabegoli and I run the website www.travellingaustraliawithkids.com encouraging families to take a few weeks, months or years and travel our amazing country. I travelled Australia with my husband and three children for two years and it was the best thing we ever did, as a couple and as a family.

Most people do not think that it is financially viable for them to TAWK and in our article in the last edition we showed you how you can make it work. Today we expand on the work available on the road and budget tips from other travelling families - all who are TAWKing and living their dream. “One day you will wake up and there won’t be any more time to do things you’ve always wanted – do them now.” Paulo Coelho In this article we are discussing working on the road and sharing some budget tips from other TAWKing families. Working on the road For most of you it’ll be about picking up a bit of work here and there to top up the funds now and again. First up you need to acknowledge: It’s not 180

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a career, it’s not a life change, it’s a job for a few weeks/months to top up your funds and you may need to be flexible. First, what we did: We concentrated on getting work in caravan parks. We figured that: • It was in the lifestyle area that we wanted. • There was normally work available during busy holiday periods, when it also could be difficult to get accommodation at that time – so a win, win situation. • It was often just to get the park through the busy period and then we’d move on – so again, worked in with our plans. • It normally gave accommodation.

free/cheaper

• Our kids found other kids to play with for a while. We would estimate roughly where we would be at a certain time and email just Jobs in caravan parks worked well for us.

now we're tawk ing! travelling australia with kids - with mandy farabegoli about every caravan park in the vicinity. We worked in Margaret River WA, Coral Bay WA, Robe SA and Burleigh Heads QLD - so a bit of a spread. With all the COVID restrictions, Australia has a lack of international travellers and backpackers who used to work their way around the country but equally, now has a lot of people travelling and exploring the country. This is leading to many jobs available throughout Australia. The best way sometimes is simply to ask. Ask at the local shop, caravan park, supermarket, get onto Gumtree – even advertise ‘yourself’. Do this everywhere you go, but especially in areas where the tourism industry is expecting an influx of people during holiday periods. They only need you for a small time; you only need them for a small time. Win-win!! Websites for finding work on the road when travelling There are many websites that you can check out. Here are a few of them: Hire Me Holiday Parks www.hiremeholidayparks.com.au Some of the parks might want full timers, but worth a shot to ask the advertising parks if they need some casual workers. The Job Shop www.thejobshop.com.au These guys have varied positions and the site is easy to navigate. Harvest Trail www.jobsearch.gov.au/job/harvest You can pretty much work around the country at your own pace picking fruit and veggies. Travellers at Work www.taw.com.au A whole range of work for all kinds of travellers.

WWOOF www.wwoof.com.au Many families try WWOOFing where you basically work for your keep, but also get a really great experience. Workabout Australia www.workaboutaustralia.com.au Small membership fee to get all the latest job listings. There are also some good Facebook Groups/Pages to join or follow: Fruit Picking Jobs Pretty self-explanatory! Australian Travellers Jobs You quite often find jobs advertised here. Grey Nomads Jobs I know it says Grey Nomads, but don’t discount it. Bush Recruitment Agricultural and the Agribusiness style of work. Work as we Travel There are often some great ideas shared here as well as work.

Budget Saving Tips on the Road Other Families Suggestions

We often ask our followers on the Travel Australia With Kids Facebook page what handy, money-saving tips they suggest and here are some of them; • Keep tow vehicle maintained well! This is your lifeline on the road so ensure you take all possible precautions and keep it well maintained. Not forgetting those all so important tyres on all vehicles. • If towing, don't always use cruise control. Driving long distances, you may not always notice the rise in the gradients of the road and all that gear changing can increase your fuel consumption. Western 4W Driver #119

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• Use a deal saving website like Scoopon or Groupon! You get some really great discounts for dining out and activities. You can just put in where you are and save! • Download the Wikicamps app! It really is a great way to find all the camping spots, free and paid. • Showgrounds often offer camping and whilst not free, they will often be a lot cheaper than caravan parks. Do your homework and see if this is available on your route. • Ask for a better price! Don't be shy to ask a caravan park for a better price or if you can have a child stay for free. If you don't ask, it's already a 'no'. So, ask the question, you may be pleasantly surprised. • Shop smartly and plan meals. If you plan on eating out as a treat, always do it over lunchtime. Lunchtime specials are A LOT better than dinner times. When you do day trips, pack snacks and drinks. PREPARATION is the key! Shopping at roadside stalls, farmers markets and pack a picnic lunch whenever possible. Minimise perishable food as it can waste quicker on the road. • Download a fuel app. Always check fuel prices for the journey you’re about to take and fill up the jerry can for when fuel is more expensive down the track! • Ice creams - buy in bulk. Stock up when on sale at the supermarket.

• Op Shops. As you travel through different states, the weather can change dramatically. This way you can travel light and stock up with the clothes you need to suit the weather as you go. • Washing machine. Consider buying a little washing machine, or one of those buckets with the lids on that you pop in the van/trailer/car en route and it washes as you travel. • Do a mix of both free camps and caravan park to assist with accommodation costs. Some caravan parks you can negotiate a weekly rate for your family. • If you have an ABN, register as a MYSTERY SHOPPER, you might not get 'paid' a lot, but often in the more remote areas you can negotiate. (I ended up getting paid around $80 per shop in some areas - Coober Pedy and Yalara, it can all add up and you may be going there anyway.) • Record all your expenses. You don't spend as much when you see the numbers in front of you! This way you get to see where you are spending and where you can save. (We do have a Travel Finance Tracker on our website.) • Local knowledge. Ask the locals. The tourist centres are fantastic, but nothing beats the locals for advice on those secret, cheap spots to go and see and of course if you are going out to eat, they will also have an idea of the best local food at the best prices and about the hidden gems. Sometimes the best places to visit aren't the commercialised places. • Tourist centres. Even after the above tip, tourist centres are great for finding out what to see in the area and the pamphlets therein often contain discount vouchers. They will also know if anything free is happening locally. • Local councils. Maybe you mightn't think of this one, but often, and especially during the school holidays, the local councils

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run free activities for kids. We often joined in these activities as the kids were busting to meet other kids, so a win-win. • Utilise WiFi hotspots to save on data (Information centres are great for this). Ensure you regularly service your vehicles and rotate tyres to avoid any nasty (very costly) surprises. • Travel slowly! Spend a couple weeks at least at nice places as being on the move is a lot more expensive. Make the most of where you are. • Finally consider grabbing our TAWK Membership Card. We have over 140 caravan parks onboard our TAWKer Supporter Program throughout Australia

and 44 in Western Australia! All offering our members at least two night’s FREE camping for your kids! It is a one-off purchase of $40 and lasts for the life of the TAWKer Supporter Program. I’ll tell you more about why we started it in the next edition of the magazine. You can find out more on our website: www.travellingaustraliawithkids.com If you have a tip that you’d like to share, then email it to me at admin@ travellingaustraliawithkids.com so that we can add it to our Budget Tip Suggestions page on our website. Most of all, get started on turning your dream into a plan!

OUTBACK GENUINE HOSPITALITY YOU DESERVE IT

Plan a stay at the grand old Queen of the Murchison Guest House & Address: 53 Austin St, Cue 6640 Cafe, and soak in the historyTel: of (08) Cue. the preserved buildings, 9963Admire 162 E:gold, info@queenofthemurchison.com.au fossick for photograph amazing sunsets. Web: www.queenofthemurchison.com.au

Address: 53 Austin St, Cue 6640 Tel: (08) 9963 162 E: info@queenofthemurchison.com.au Web: www.queenofthemurchison.com.au

53 Austin St, Cue 6640 Tel: (08) 9963 1625 info@queenofthemurchison.com.au www.queenofthemurchison.com.au Western 4W Driver #119

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With over 40 years experience teaching Outback Survival, Bob Cooper has produced what he calls the ‘Trilogy for Survival’. Along with enough water, Bob believes every time you go bush, no matter what form of transport, these three items should accompany you in case something doesn’t go to plan and you’re in an emergency situation – anywhere. A quality Three stretch elastic bandages. Quality survival blanket. emergency/survival kit. Multiple uses and first aid. This one spells HELP.

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e y t ? e r e h t e Are w

Written by kids ... for kids

NIGHT GAMES There's something exhilarating and adventurous about playing games outdoors in the dark when you're camping or even just at home with friends or family. The following games can be played in most places including parks, campgrounds, beaches or even in suburban areas with plenty of hiding spots Make sure you set boundaries so no one gets lost and if there are a variety of ages playing, team up younger kids with older ones.

SPOTLIGHT TAG

Choose who is 'it.' This person has the torch and will be responsible for 'tagging' people. Hide! The person who is 'it' counts to a set number (such as 100), while everyone else hides. Seek! After counting to the specified number, the person who is 'it' can then start to look for people. As with regular tag, once you are tagged, you are out. However, to tag someone in spotlight tag, the person who is 'it' must tag people with the beam of the torch and call their names. Play until everyone is 'out.' When you are tagged, you must go to 'jail', a specified location where all the people who are 'out' must wait until everyone else has been tagged by the person who is 'it'. Once you are 'out,' you can no longer participate in the game, but watching and cheering from the sidelines is also fun!

CLASSIC SPOTLIGHT

Set up a goal that you must get to from a designated starting point some distance away. You must try and navigate through the dark to reach the goal without being ‘spotted’ by leaders wielding torches along the way. Leaders can be either hidden or roaming. If you reach the goal and touch it, you are the spotlight champion. WINNING TIP NUMBER 1

WINNING TIP NUMBER 2

Hide somewhere where it is hard to be seen. Pick a spot in which you can stand behind a branch or a wide tree trunk. If the ground has hills, use them to your advantage. Also, use levels - people usually forget to look upwards, so trees and climbable structures make excellent hiding spots. It is also possible to hide below the 'seeker' under benches, cars, branches and in depressions in the ground. Just take care that you can see so that people don't tread on you!

Partner up. You and a mate can help each other by hiding at opposite ends of the area and making a noise whenever the other is close to being found by the 'seeker'. The 'seeker' will usually immediately turn and investigate the noise. You can also create a noise away from your location by throwing pebbles or gumnuts at something such as playground equipment. If you do this, be careful that you don't hit someone close to the target of your throw. Western 4W Driver #119

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PUZZLES FOR KIDS SPOTLIGHT word search ADVENTURE CAMPGROUND CHAMPION CHASE CLASSIC COUNT DARK FOUND GAME GOAL HIDDEN HIDE JAIL NIGHT OUTDOORS PLAY SEEK SPOTLIGHT TAG TORCH

E P K D G T J Z F T O E I L Y W X Q

A N C H A M P I O N R U L S C U H B

J V O F G H Q K U X G S E E K F I E

H B U Y O C P D N I U F I W H F D L

G S N I G H T Z D W M S Z M G A E N

D C T R I N V S E X J Q B D A O S X

B X H S P O T L I G H T D Z M V H Y

I K T X Z E O Y J N C H A S E A C I

G O A L R B J E C M A R R L U R P W

S U H M Q T A G W J M Y K V Q C Z N

F T J C A K P R A F P E N T O R C H

O D V L P A J T H W G L T H A K X V

D O M A D V E N T U R E I S L P P M

G O Q S H S G G I Y O M K J A I L U

O R U S W L D C X E U K B K V Y A B

W S B I F O R M B A N Y F A C P Y E

G Z V C K R D H I D D E N U U C N J

T D T I O M Q D Z G T P N L Q L F N

BRAIN TEASER

Directions: WITHOUT taking your pencil off the paper, draw 4 STRAIGHT LINES through each dot. You can only go through each dot ONCE! Remember that each line has to be a straight line and you can only draw 4 lines! Answer on page 191.

Hey kids!

Tell us about your favourite games to play while you're camping for a chance to win a prize and have your letter or photo published. Email: submissions@western4wdriver.com.au

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000

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476.6500 476.6750 476.8500 477.1250 477.1500 477.4000

Simplex - 4WD Drivers - Convoy, Clubs & National Parks Simplex - Call Channel only Simplex - Caravan & Campers Convoy Channel Simplex - Pacific Hwy (NSW) & Bruce Hwy (Qld) Road Channel Simplex - UHF CB Broadcasts Simplex - Highway, Truckies & Roadworks Channel

12.5 KHz 12.5 KHz 12.5 KHz 12.5 KHz 12.5 KHz 12.5 KHz

Western 4W Driver #119

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illy NAPS

11 Days Stuck in the Mud 11 days of digging, winching and working to free themselves. Terry and Barbara’s recent ordeal in the Gascoyne is a great example of ensuring that you are prepared when travelling remote.

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KEEP ‘EM COMING FOLKS. All you need is a potentially funny situation, a good sense of humour and of course, your camera. Send your silly snap to: Email: admin@western4wdriver.com.au or Facebook: www.facebook.com/western4wdriver 190

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SUPPLIER DIRECTORY ACCOMMODATION Queen of the Murchison......................................183 BATTERIES/BATTERY SYSTEMS iTechworld........................................................192-IBC Piranha Off Road Products....................................87 Topo DC Power........................................................ 35 BRAKES Bendix Brakes.......................................................... 59 BOLLARDS Ramguard Bollards................................................150 CAMPERS/CARAVANS & TRAILERS Camprite...................................................................... 11 Explorex Caravans.................................................145 Off Road Equipment................................................ 19 CAMPING SUPPLIES ARB......................................................................... IFC-1 Drifta Stockton......................................................... 28 Go Camping and Overlanding............................152 COMMUNICATION Zoleo..........................................................................128 DRIVING LIGHTS Bushranger 4X4............................................. 103, 174 Narva.......................................................................... 49 ELECTRONICS Camera Electronic....................................................111 Wanderlust...............................................................169 4WD PARTS & ACCESSORIES ARB......................................................................... IFC-1 Bushranger 4X4............................................. 103, 174 Maxtrax........................................................................71 Medicar Automotive Solutions............................100 Midland 4WD Centre.............................................. 39 Narva.......................................................................... 49 Off Road Equipment ............................................... 19 Piranha Off Road Products....................................87 Supafit Seat Covers................................................118 Tyrepliers................................................................... 93

Your quick-find reference to products and services in Western 4W Driver MAPS & NAVIGATION Hema.........................................................................132 WAITOC......................................................................73 MECHANICAL SERVICE, REPAIRS & REPLACEMENT Medicar Automotive Solutions............................100 Turbo Tech................................................................ 29 United Fuel Injection.............................................122 MOTORBIKES (ELECTRIC) Fred Hopkins............................................................ 99 MOTOR VEHICLES Nuford.......................................................................159 Toyota..................................................................... OBC PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS Direction Plus...........................................................116 Turbo Tech................................................................ 29 United Fuel Injection.............................................122 PHOTOGRAPHY Camera Electronic....................................................111 Wanderlust...............................................................169 POWDERCOATING Metal Works Perth..................................................150 TRAINING & TOURS Adventure Offroad Training.................................. 65 Bob Cooper Outback Survival............................184 Char Bro BBQ (Fire Cooking School)................162 WAITOC......................................................................73

BRAIN TEASER ANSWER

MAGAZINES Western Angler.......................................................146

Western 4W Driver #119

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