100 Years of Good Grapes

CELEBRATING 100 YEARS OF GOOD GRAPES

Five winemakers from Baskerville share their stories with Fergal Gleeson, as the district celebrates 100 years of grape growing.

Ray & Arch Kosovich

IN 1922, AFTER World War I, many immigrants came to Perth to seek a better life; sparking the beginnings of the Baskerville vineyards.

The land west of the Great Northern Highway, Baskerville was subdivided for viticulture. The blocks of land were planted with vines, mostly for currants and raisins initially, then table grapes and finally what the region is known for today - wine grapes. For many wineries of Baskerville, the art of winemaking has become a family tradition

John Kosovich Wines

– A FAMILY AFFAIR

The John Kosovich Wines origin story is a familiar Swan Valley one. Lile (aka Jack) emigrated from Croatia, making a living cutting railway sleepers and gold mining in Kalgoorlie before buying some land in the Swan Valley and planting a vineyard.

John, his eldest son, put the family vineyard to good use by becoming a winemaker at the age of 15. He has now done close to 70 vintages (probably unequalled in Australia) and received an OAM for his contribution to winemaking.

Keeping up the family tradition, John’s son Arch has now taken the role of senior winemaker, becoming the third generation winemaker, while Arch’s brother Ray is the viticulturist.

Like his dad, Arch knows good wine. He is producing award-winning wines, including the Bottle Aged Chenin Blanc which won Best Chenin Blanc in Australia at the inaugural Australian Chenin Blanc Challenge in 2020. The Cabernet Malbec Reserve combines two varieties which grow well in the Swan Valley and the fortifieds show complex yet smooth characters. All wine is made from hand-picked and estategrown grapes.

The winery is small and unpretentious, with a unique hand-dug cellar door. A grapevine trellis at the entrance to the cellar door includes a vine planted in 1922, giving a nod to its heritage.

Kosovich Wines has previously been awarded Gourmet Traveller Wine magazine’s Best Small Cellar Door in the Swan Valley. johnkosovichwines.com.au

Harris Wines

- CERTIFIED ORGANIC

Duncan Harris grew up in Tasmania’s Tamar Valley, and came to Perth in the early 90s, eventually buying the Swan Valley property at Baskerville 25 years ago. While working full-time, as an engineer, he spent every spare moment building the dream of a vineyard and natural wine-making facilities in the Swan Valley.

Duncan is passionate about sustainability and believes sustainable and organic

The Kosovich Family

Duncan Harris methods will play a role in saving the planet. It’s his belief that “wine is made in the vineyard and wants to let the vineyard tell the story in the wine.”

Duncan aims to produce natural wine flavours that give a sense of place, the soil and the “Swan Valley wine region”. Dry land organic viticulture assists that.

The Harris range is broad, covering organic white, red, fortified and sparkling wines as well as organic brandy and vodka.

The cellar door, opposite John Kosovich Wines, offers a variety of wine experiences available to book online. harrisorganicwine.com.au

Twin Hill Wines

– THIRD GENERATION

Steve Kraljevich migrated to Australia from Croatia, in the former Yugoslavia, in 1926 at the age of 18.

Drawn to the Swan Valley by his love of wine, he met his wife Annie and together they established Twin Hill Wines, making their first vintage in 1937.

Sons Eddie and Mark and Mark’s wife Dorothy worked alongside their father, continuing the family tradition. Today, Twin Hill Wines continues with the third generation, Stephen and Anthony Kraljevich.

The range of table wines includes a classic white, verdelho, shiraz, classic red and sweet red.

“The verdelho is always popular,” says Stephen’s wife Robyn.

“Our chilled sweet red, a late harvest shiraz and grenache blend, is a summer favourite.”

Twin Hill Wines is also well known for its fortified wines which include Tawny, Sweet Muscat, Pedro Ximenez and Topaque.

“Our fortifieds are from old vines planted in 1969,” says Robyn. “Our Tawny, which is sold in a traditional two-litre flagon, is a best seller.”

What can you expect at the cellar door?

“Along with wine tasting, we have a gourmet cheese and olive fridge, where customers can take produce home or enjoy a simple platter outside with a glass or bottle of wine.” twinhillwines.com

Mann Winery

– SPARKLING TIMES

The Mann Winery Cellar door opens at the beginning of August each year with the release of the two sparkling vintages of Rosé Brut (cabernet sauvignon) and Cygne Blanc (white cabernet).

At the small cellar door, where both of the sparklings are available to taste, you will be greeted by Dorham Mann and his daughter Anthea.

Dorham had a distinguished career at Sandaldford Wines before he opened Mann Winery, his own micro winery in 1987.

Dorham’s father was Jack Mann, one of Australia’s most famous winemakers who completed countless vintages at Houghton from the 1920s to the 1970s.

The sparkling cabernet sauvignon, made in a rosé style, was originally made by Jack Mann only for family consumption. Dorham continued making this style privately while at Sandalford, until he started Mann Winery and introduced the delicious drop to the public. swanvalley.com.au/Business-Listings/ Mann-Winery

Dorham Mann

CAVERSHAMCAVERSHAM WILDLIFEWILDLIFE PARKPARK

Caversham Wildlife Park boasts the largest privately owned collection of native wildlife in Western Australia.

unique interactive experiences with Australia

’ s most interesting animals while maintaining the laid-back Aussie touch. Visitors receive personalised service by wildlife professionals dedicated to exceptional service, ensuring their visitors receive the best opportunities for animal interaction, information and photographs.

Open 7 days, 9:30am – 4pm daily Ph: (08) 9248 1984 233B Drumpellier Drive, Whiteman www.cavershamwildlife.com.au

John Kosovich Wines Twin Hill Wines

Laura Pearse, Upper Reach Wines

Laura Pearse, Upper Reach Wines

“The second sparkling wine produced at Mann Winery is made from Cygne Blanc and is unique in the world, in that it’s from the white Cabernet variety which was discovered and developed on our Swan Valley property,” says Anthea.

“We named the variety Cygne Blanc (white swan) after its region of origin. The grape variety is now patented.

“Cygne Blanc has an incomparable varietal character all of its own,” Anthea says. “It has an enticing floral bouquet, along with lingering depth of fruit flavour. We have always admired the finesse and refinement of Cygne Blanc and we have great faith in its future as a wine grape of distinction.”

Both wines are made in the méthode traditionnelle style. swanvalley.com.au/Business-Listings/ Mann-Winery

Upper Reach Winery

– DYNAMIC DUO

Upper Reach Winery has won an extraordinary eight Gourmet Traveller Wines Cellar Door awards including the 2021 awards for Best Small Cellar Door and Best Swan Valley Accommodation.

The outfit is the remarkable result of Derek (from Western Australia’s Wheatbelt) and Laura Pearse (a Londoner, who’d never seen a tractor) buying a rundown vineyard, 25 years ago.

Jump forward to 2022 and there’s a newly renovated restaurant, which offers bistro-style food with a Mediterranean twist. Eye-catching starters include beetroot and vodka-cured ocean trout (find the recipe in this magazine), and chorizo, goat’s cheese, smoked almonds and honey.

There are mouth-watering mains including slow-cooked spiced lamb shoulder and feta parcel, pankocrumbed Shark Bay whiting, and porcini mushroom and mascarpone risotto.

There are a variety of wine-tasting options and educational experiences available at the cellar door, including winery tours and wine appreciation classes. Upper Reach offers a variety of white, rosé and red table wines as well as a Muscat and Tawny. uppereach.com.au

We’ve been making celebrated WA wines for over 180 years. Visit our beautiful estate and discover Sandalford’s seven ranges of wines from Swan Valley and Margaret River, and treat yourself to multi award-winning Australian cuisine at the all new Sandalford Restaurant & Bar. We love to cater for events too; our estate is the venue of choice for concerts, weddings and all styles of functions – come visit us and you’ll see why!

3210 West Swan Road, Caversham Ph: (08) 9374 9374 E: sandalford@sandalford.com www.sandalford.com

Open daily 10am-5pm. Lunch daily from 11.30am. Dinner service Friday and Saturday.

Upper Reach Wines @sandalfordwines

@sandalford_wines