Tales and Trails - the NEW Margaret River Region Magazine by Vanguard Publishing Perth

No. 1 / Autumn & Winter 2021

STORIES / TOWN GUIDES / ITINERARIES

TA K E M E H O M E • F R E E

MARGARET RIVER REGION BUSSELTON

DUNSBOROUGH

MARGARET RIVER

AUGUSTA

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 1

P A T

MARGARET RIVER’S PREMIUM DESTINATION

2 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

AWARD WINNING WINES

S P E C TA C U L A R W E D D I N G S

WA SURF & CAR GALLERY

STUNNING GARDENS

I N N O VAT I V E D I N I N G

TA P H O U S E

BARREL HALL WEDDINGS

RIVIERA & PIZZA BAR

OPEN DAILY 10AM - 5PM 61 THORNTON ROAD | YALLINGUP | WESTERN AUSTRALIA Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 3 (08) 9750 1111 WWW.ARAVINAESTATE.COM

WADANDI BOODJA The Wadandi people are the traditional owners of the South West of Western Australia. Wadandi Boodja means Saltwater People’s Country. ‘Whilst living, travelling, visiting and holidaying on Wadandi Boodja, we ask that you respect the area and walk softly on the country taking time to listen to Boodja (Country) as she Wongi (talks) of the season, and leave nothing but footprints.’ Pibulmun Wadandi Yunungjarli Elder Wayne Webb

ABORIGINAL SEASONS

The Wadandi people follow a six-season calendar. This autumn and winter, you’ll experience Djeran, Makuru and Djilba. Djeran // (April - May) Djeran signifying the start of cooler weather. Djeran is noted for south westerly winds, an abundance of native flowers in bloom and trees in fruit. Native fruits like zamia, palm nuts and tubers are collected at this time. The burning season continues as does fishing in lakes, dams and estuaries.

Makuru // (June - July) Makuru is cold with the first heavy rains and storms occurring more frequently as Boodja (Country) cools down. Many local Noongar people moved to inland areas for shelter to escape the storms coming off the Southern Ocean. With the cold coastal winds prevailing, the Yonga Booka (kangaroo skin cloak) was turned inside out so that the fur was against the skin, while the outside was oiled to provide waterproof protection against the rain. Djilba // (August - September) As the days start to warm up, explosions of wildflowers bloom in the south west over Djilba. Yonga Marra (Kangaroo Paw) begins to flower yellow blossoms. This is a transitional time of year with some cold and clear days, rainy and windy days and an occasional sunny day. The controlled burning from previous seasons brings lush growth of green grasses which attracts animals. The Kyooya (frog) can be heard from the wetlands. Learn more at undalup.com

Thank you to all our contributors Cally Browning, Sophie Mathewson, Lizzy Pepper, Tom De Souza, Tim Campbell, Sarina Kamini, Sarah Robinson, Danielle Costley, Jinna Yang, Gemma Lamplough, Janine Pittaway, Dianne Bortoletto and Fergal Gleeson. COVER IMAGE Scott Slawinski Tales and Trails is proudly brought to you by the Margaret River Busselton Tourism Association, Premium Publishers and Vanguard Press. For advertising enquiries contact Natalie Du Preez: natalie@premiumpublishers.com.au No material published in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the permission from the publisher. The views expressed in Tales and Trails are those of the retrospective contributors and every endeavour is made to ensure information is correct at time of print but may change afterwards. Please visit margaretriver.com for the most up to date information.

4 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

SPOTLIGHT ON: Photographer Tim Campbell Tim Campbell’s photo essay in this edition, The Whale Superhighway, is nothing short of spectacular. Tim is an outdoorsy kind of guy and his work is generally inspired by the ocean. He took five to answer five.

Where did you capture these stunning shots?

Your recommendations for where to spot whales in the region?

For the northern migration it’s all about Augusta. This is usually the first port of call for humpback whales reaching Australia bound for the north west, so head to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse and post up on the point for the day with a pair of binoculars as the pods pass by. If you have access to a boat then Flinders Bay will certainly serve you well during calm weather. For the southern migration, if you’re watching whales by land then Point Piquet in Eagle Bay would have to be your first stop.

Where do you always take your visitors?

When I have friends come to stay, aside from Injidup, I’ll always get them out on

Favourite time of year?

The beginning of winter! If you surf, everything is in alignment. The tides are perfect for my favourite waves, those powerful groundswells from the deep Indian Ocean are pulsing, the crisp offshore winds are consistently grooming the sea-state and we still have those picture-perfect bluebird days making our coastline look like a meticulously curated Instagram profile.

Best place to watch the sunset?

No matter how much I try to come up with an alternative answer, Sugarloaf Rock is truly unbeatable. The power of this place is unmatched and it’s the location of a lot of the best landscape photographs to come out of Western Australia.

IMAGE Rachel Claires

All of the images you see here were captured during a single day out on the water off Cape Naturaliste and the breaching action was about one nautical mile north west of the tip of the Cape. This would have to be one of my favourite spots in the region to see whale action when I’m on the water.

the water. Launching the boat or jetski at the Old Dunsborough Boat Ramp is the best way to head out on Geographe Bay and get up close and personal with all of our marine life. Throughout the entire year you can swim with seals and dolphins, find hidden beaches only accessible by boat or just catch a feed of squid straight out the front of town. If you don’t have access to a boat just jump on one of the charters operating from Geographe Bay.

Feature Contributor: Photographer Tim Campbell

/ Tales & Trails is a curious exploration of the Margaret River Region. Our stories, local tips and secrets are curated for you, the reader, to guide you on your adventures across the destination. /

...a uniquely southern Margaret River style. Cellar Door | Open Daily | 10am to 5pm BYO picnic + wine by the glass stellabella.com.au || 9758 8611 Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 5 205 Rosa Brook Road, Margaret River

WHAT’S INSIDE Bill Gibson and his Bon Scott Surfboard

10 Best Pub Lunches

The Ultimate Self-Drive Art Trail

Insider Tips: Hiking the Cape to Cape

Low Impact Living: Windows Estate Eco Cabin

The Rise and Rise of Malbec

Photo Essay: The Whale Superhighway

The Ultimate Wellness Weekend

The Travelling Vegetarian

A Tale of Two Lighthouses

Hidden Galleries of the Margaret River Region

3 Classic Road Trips

Wild Swimming

Middle Earth and Other Bike Trails

10 Adventures for People Who Travel to Eat

How To: Experience the Margaret River Surf Scene (Without Getting Wet)

WHAT’S NEW PAGE 8 WHAT’S ON PAGE 12 BUSSELTON

Map and Things to Do Busselton’s Craft Beer Boom

DUNSBOROUGH

Map and Things to Do Winter Walks in Yallingup & Dunsborough

MARGARET RIVER

Map and Things to Do The Southern Backroads Winery Trail

AUGUSTA

Map and Things to Do Life Away from the Everyday: Reigniting Nostalgia in Augusta How To Cook and Eat Augusta’s Prized Abalone Busselton Jetty

6 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

GETTING AROUND

2.5 hours

Busselton Margaret River Airport *Melbourne-Busselton Jetstar route due to commence mid-2021. Subject to travel restrictions. More info at jetstar.com

Region is the

the

Web: www.margaretriver.com margaretriver.com

Discover the southwest with Avis. Explore everything this region has to offer with our latest model vehicle, and wide range including people movers and SUVs. Plus, ask about our one-way rentals with unlimited kilometers. B u n B u r y | B u s s e lt o n | B u s s e lt o n - M a r g a r e t r i v e r a i r p o r t av i s . c o M . au | 1 8 0 0 67 9 8 8 0 L2036_AvisBrusseltonPrint - 210x46-7mm.indd 1

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 7 21/02/2020 11:04:31 AM

WHAT’SNEW

While there’s no

// NEW CELLAR DOORS:

predicting what’s to

With an epic collaboration with food truck Normal Van, winemaker Dylan Arvidson opened the doors to a brand new L.S Merchants cellar door in Cowaramup over summer. If you haven’t heard of L.S Merchants, then get familiar with the product. Dylan doesn’t play by the rules and values flavour over analysis. His small batch, minimal intervention wine consists of 20 different varietals, styles and blends all handmade with wild fermentation where possible and a lot of experimentation. And for those that judge a book by its cover – their wine labels are pretty special too. Another newbie to check out are Skigh Wines. Set in the Yallingup hills with a relaxed set up and sprawling gardens it’s the perfect place for a tasting. Grace Farm and Marri Wood Park’s

come as we push ahead through 2021, the Margaret River Region community appear well equipped to manage any situation. Just looking at the ingenuity of new products and innovative experiences that have been dreamed up and brought to life over the last year is pretty darn impressive. Here’s our wrap up of must-try new (or new-ish) stuff to get around.

8 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

new cellar doors are also well worth a visit. Both are open Wednesday through to Sunday.

// CONSERVATION ACCOMMODATION: It’s a trending movement that the region is embracing with full force – sustainable housing for travellers. The latest new eco-friendly accommodation to join the growing list is Barn Hives in Yallingup. The eco-pods are architecturally designed with special attention to sunlight and cross ventilation. Water is collected from rainfall and heated by solar panels making it self-sustainable. Margaret River Heartland is also ecoaligned offering off-grid accommodation with pastoral views to the forest. Choose from a weatherboard cottage or a ‘glampvan’ – which is a completely

Escape the throes of the office and stay at an eco cabin surrounded by nature.

refurbished caravan designed by artist Anita Revel. It’s barefoot luxury at its finest with a modern kitchen, vintage record player, and rainwater sky shower. If you’re after a more curated digital detox, try the new 4 Day Yoga and Wellness Glamping Adventure with Nullarbor Traveller. You’ll practice yoga in pristine locations and tuck into a glamping tent by night. Also look out for the new tiny house at Windows Estate (see page 28-31).

// NEW WINE AND CRAFT BEER VENUES: Shelter Brewing Co on the foreshore in Busselton has excellent food, great beers, and arguably one of the best views

in the region. If you didn’t get there over summer, make sure you go forth stat to appreciate this magnificent new venue. Swings & Roundabouts smaller establishment on Margaret River’s main street took a brief hiatus to undergo a renovation and has relaunched with a revamped interior and the same incredible restaurant service. Flagship wines are served on tap, and the very convenient town location makes it an easy choice for dining in for lunch or

dinner. Takeaways are also on offer if you prefer to grab and go. Well-loved and frequented winery Aravina Estate has recently entered the craft beer space. They now have an onsite brewery with five of their own brews which are crafted by chief brewer, Dr Brad Hutton (who also happens to be one of their winemakers). Now with crafty pints and a surf gallery – Aravina is now the perfect place to take your favourite bloke to visit. Dunsborough and Yallingup are

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 9

bursting with new secret bars to discover. Har Bar in Dunsborough has a vintage nautical theme with a solid cocktail menu. Lady Lola is part deli, part bar, part bistro. Indulge in a negroni or a glass of bubbles and some share plates. Bungalow Neighbourhood Social is also a good casual bar dedicated to natural wine and sourdough pizzas. And if you didn’t get to visit Lagoon in Yallingup over summer, make sure you book in for a tasting of seafood and boutique wines and beers. They are positioned in a premium location near Yallingup main break.

// HOWARD PARK’S POP STAR WINE: 80 million record sales needs something to drink to right? Kylie Minogue says Yes, and 2021 marks the launch of her new Margaret River Chardonnay, Kylie. Howard Park chief winemaker, Janice McDonald worked with the pop star to produce the new release and Kylie is thrilled that the Chardonnay won a Gold medal in the UK with Drinks Business Magazine. Fans of Australia’s glittering golden girl or just flat out Neighbours’ tragics must add Howard Park to their 2021 itinerary to pick up a bottle of this iconic drop. Note there will be a limited amount for sale so get in quick!

10 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

// FOODIE TOURS: What’s better than marshmallows on a winter campfire? Substitute the sweet stuff for a flame cooked lunch of Margaret River’s best produce and a glass or two of fine local red to wash it all down and the question is moot. Walk Talk Taste Margaret River’s campfire lunch events offer a new and unique regional discovery of history and food in a luxurious small group bush experience. Follow them at @walktalktastemargaretriver or contact host Kellie Tannock to book a tour.

•

Slow down and really taste the local flavours with a Walk Talk Taste foodie experience.

JahRoc Galleries is widely known for its diverse art representation and its cutting edge furniture designs. Situated in the heart of Margaret River, it is a one stop gallery destination that is home to their own line of JahRoc Fine Furniture and also exhibits an inspiring collection of Fine Art, Paintings, Art Glass, Sculpture, Ceramic, Fine Jewellery & Argyle Diamonds.

JahRoc’s unique collaborative approach with contemporary Australian Artists offers the viewer an opportunity to observe a crossing of genres and throughout their neexpansive ruaL dngallery a ydraspaces, V viL to ,sevisualize liG divahow D hctaW nefurniture pO gniruand d seart irepieces llaG comight rhaJ tawork gnittogether aerc dduR their own .sin em it ro f uahome .moc.or cooffice. rhaj.www kcehC .soidutS

JahRoc Furniture (est.1987) have forged a reputation as Western Australia’s leading furniture designer/makers with Gary Bennett and David Paris working together producing bespoke fine furniture pieces that have been acquired by collectors around the globe. With over 50 industry awards, the JahRoc design team are by far the most highly awarded furniture makers in Australia. Using ethically sourced local hardwoods, JahRoc’s Furniture is often described as “functional art”.

Visit JahRoc Galleries today and find out why all that do leave inspired. 83 Bussell Highway, Margaret River (08) 9758 7200 info@jahroc.com.au

www.jahroc.com.au

Open daily 10am - 5pm

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 11

// WHAT’S ON

Autumn and winter are buzzing with music and arts events, foodie festivals and spectator sports. Sign up to the Margaret River Region’s monthly What’s On blaster to be kept up-to-date on event announcements or changes to the schedule.

MAY

Margaret River Ultra Marathon / May 1st The Margaret River Ultra Marathon provides an incredible journey through the forests, trails, beaches and bluffs on the beautiful Cape to Cape coastline. margaretriver.rapidascent.com.au

Busselton Festival of Triathlon (Celebrates 20 years in 2021) /May 1st – 2nd This event is not just for regular triathletes – it’s the perfect opportunity to dip your toe into the water of multi-sport events. Food vendors and entertainment will be provided onsite from the afternoon and evening, which is great for spectators too. busseltonfestivaloftriathlon.com.au

Margaret River Pro / May 2nd – 12th As a WSL Championship Tour event, the Pro attracts surfing’s global elite, with the top professional men and women surfers in the world competing for championship points. Superstars of the surf world to have competed in the Margaret River Pro

12 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

in recent years include Kelly Slater, John John Florence, Stephanie Gilmore and Sally Fitzgibbons. margaretriver.com/the-margaret-river-pro

Margaret River Readers & Writers Festival / May 14th – 16th Margaret River Readers & Writers Festival brings an array of thought-provoking writers to the region including novelists, journalists, academics and established and emerging storytellers from WA, interstate and overseas. mrrwfestival.com

JUNE

Emergence Creative Festival / June 9th - 11th Western Australia’s premiere immersive anti-conference returns to Margaret River fusing the best in culture and creative thinking. Non-ticket holders can get in on the action at the community event The Spill, held in the HEART precinct and at the Margaret River Skatepark. emergencecreative.com

JULY

Cabin Fever Festival / July 16th – 25th Cabin Fever is back with 10 days of all the wintry goodness you’re used to sampling; cheese toasties, fireside wines, hearty comfort food and more. cabinfeverfest.com.au

Undalup NAIDOC Week Festival / July 10th 2021 NAIDOC Week theme is Healing Country. A celebration on Wadandi Boodja will take place on Saturday July 10th. margaretriver.com/event/naidoc-festival

AUGUST

CinefestOZ / August 25th – 29th CinfestOZ is Australia’s premier destination film festival and emphasises Australian and French Film – so expect more than enough opportunities to slip into the realm of the silver screen, interspersed with your whale watching and winery combing. cinefestoz.com

designs in nature

SEPTEMBER

Margaret River Region Open Studios / September 11th – 26th Artists and artisans open the doors to their art studios and workshops for 16 days, delivering a unique experience for art lovers to meet the creator of the artwork, and peruse and purchase original artworks. With over 100 artists involved, this is the biggest event of its kind. mrropenstudios.com.au Below: Stay in the heart of Margaret River for WA’s biggest regional literary festival.

OCTOBER

Strings Attached / October 8th - 10th A festival for guitar players, makers and enthusiasts. Strung out over three epic days. stringsattachedfestival.com.au

SAVE THE DATE!

A new wine event is coming. From the 15th to 24th October 2021, the region will be celebrating all things fine wine, with a series of 30+ unique wine events. For details closer to the date, visit margaretriver.wine

jewellery designed and handmade in Margaret River Open daily 10am - 4pm 611 Boodjidup Road 08 9757 6885 info@payetgallery.com.au Taleswww.payetgallery.com.au & Trails / margaretriver.com / 13

TRUE TALES:

BILL GIBSON AND HIS BON SCOTT SURFBOARD WORDS & IMAGES | Tom De Souza

From the outside, Bill Gibson’s surfboard restoration shed looks like any other in the Cowaramup industrial area. A square block, corrugated blue tin cladding. No signage out front. 14 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

LIFT UP THE roller door and inside is a kaleidoscope of over 150 old surfboards. Some date back as far as the 1960s. They stand up in racks, hang across the concrete walls, and dangle from the ceiling over his electric blue 1964 Ford Fairlane 500. Right now, Bill is restoring a 1970s Cordingley single fin. Years of sun and neglect have warped the shape and the sheen of the board. Bill is replacing the delaminated fibreglass, filling holes in

the foam, and removing two-and-a-half inches twist using a plastic bag and a ratchet strap. Bill does this for an occupation because he loves old things. “Old things tell the story of where we’ve come from and where we’re going”, he says. And by preserving those things, he can keep that story alive. “In my lifetime, so much has changed. This is really a journey backwards to find out how things have evolved,” he says.

Surfboards each with a story to tell, line the walls in Bill’s shed.

“With surfboards, the design evolved so radically from the late 60s through to the late 80s. Every surfboard tells a part of that story.” Every surfboard also has an individual story to tell, says Bill. He points out a stumpy red and yellow board hanging on the wall. “The Tequila Sunrise,” he smiles. “That’s a colourful one.” “My mate, Lowey was at Secret Harbour one morning. He’d just had a surf and was by his car when he noticed

this guy getting out of an Escort van with that board. He noticed him because he had jeans and a singlet on, ciggie hanging out of his mouth, can of beer in his hand. It was Bon Scott. “Bon was out in the water for about two minutes, came in, and went, ‘stuff this surfing’. Threw the board on the ground, stomped on it a few times. Lowey went up to the guy and asked if he could have it. Bon told him ‘to just take the bloody thing’.” That Tequila Sunrise was one of the first surfboards that Bill restored some 25 years ago. But before this became a full-time job, Bill was a fitter and machinist on mining and industrial sites around WA. Surfing and tinkering were just hobbies that Bill developed an interest in through his father, who built racing boats in his spare time. “My old man was a water man. A jack of all trades, but a water man. He knew a lot about boats,” says Bill. “He was involved with [renowned surfboard shaper] Tom Blaxell in designing and racing offshore power boats. “I was always with Dad hanging around at Tom’s surf shop. As time went on and I got more and more into surfing, I always watched how they were made.” Bill only began pursuing an interest in surfboard design when he was 40-yearsold, and his favourite surfboard shaper, Ken McKenzie stopped making boards. “After Ken I couldn’t find what I wanted in other surfboards, so I started shaping my own. I’ve always sort of had 10 surfboards lying around in the shed, so I started fixing them up too. Everybody appreciated what I was doing and it’s just grown from there.” Bill has been in this shed, beside his wife Kay Gibson’s art studio, for 15 years. But restoring boards only became a fulltime job last year. “I was almost 65 when COVID came around. I didn’t want to be in share accommodation at the mine anymore. I had a really good number there, I was really looked after, but it was just time,” he says “Since March last year I’ve just been doing surfboards. I’ve been able to

REST, RELAX, RECONNECT Romantic, secluded couples’ retreat in self-contained chalets with candlelit sky-view spas, kingsized beds and tranquil forest outlooks, on 240 acres of natural beauty.

R E ST, R E ST, R E LRAX, E L AX, R ECO R ECO NNEC NNEC T T Romantic, Romantic, secluded, secluded, self contained self contained chalets chalets with candlelit with candlelit sky-view sky-view spas, Kingsize spas, Kingsize

double double beds and bedstranquil and tranquil forestforest outlooks, outlooks, on on 240 acres 240 acres of natural of natural beauty. beauty.

231 Yelverton 231 Yelverton Road,Road, Yelverton Yelverton Tales Margaret Margaret RiverRiver WineWine Region Region Phone Phone (08) 9755 (08) 9755 71107110 or or emailemail reception@forestrise.com.au reception@forestrise.com.au

231 Yelverton Road, Yelverton Margaret River Wine Region Phone (08) 9755 7110 or email reception@forestrise.com.au

& Trails / margaretriver.com / 15 WWWW . FW O .RFEOS RT ER SI S TE R .I CS O E .MC .OAM U. A U

In Bill’s restoration shed, you can see his appreciation for old things.

organise my space better, clean up, get more organised.” Bill is a key figure in a growing community of West Australian surfboard collectors. He regularly posts images of his work in the ‘Vintage Surfboard Collectors West Oz’ Facebook group, which has over 1200 members. Bill’s knowledge and historical interest in surfing have also been recognised by Surfing WA, who enlisted his help to create the WA Surf Gallery at Aravina Estate. Together with Jim King, Mick Marlin, and Peter Dunn, Bill has helped to compile a small museum on West Australian surfing. “There have been a few books written in the past few years, but there was no real drive to conserve surfing history in WA. It’s a young sport, only 50 years old. If we don’t conserve it this stuff will disappear,” says Bill. “And people love it. They appreciate the same things in old surfboards and paraphernalia as I do. These things are old, but they were good in their time and there is a great story to them.”

•

16 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

WELCOME TO MARGARET RIVER. WHATEVER YOU’RE AFTER, BLACK BREWING CO IS GUARANTEED TO GIVE YOU A QUINTESSENTIAL TASTE OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA’S SOUTH WEST REGION. WE OFFER UNCOMPROMISING CRAFT BEERS BREWED IN HOUSE, OUR DUNE

DISTILLING GINS AND SOME OF MARGARET RIVER’S BEST WINE VARIETALS ALL SERVED ALONGSIDE A DELICIOUS MENU MADE FROM LOCALLY-SOURCED INGREDIENTS. STOP BY AND SPEND THE DAY WITH US. WE’RE OPEN DAILY FROM 11AM TO 5PM.

3517 CAVES ROAD, WILYABRUP, MARGARET RIVER (08) 9755 6500 WWW.BLACKBREWINGCO.COM.AU @BLACKBREWINGCO Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 17 BOOK A TABLE ONLINE | FOR WEDDINGS AND SPECIAL EVENT ENQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT EVENTS@BLACKBREWINGCO.COM.AU

IMAGE Russell Ord

EPIC PUB

WORDS | Janine Pittaway

LUNCHES

Beef tartare, Japanese pancakes and Indian Thali - the pub lunch is done just a bit differently in the Margaret River Region but the classics still remain. FOR A FAMILY-FRIENDLY lunch or a gathering of mates, Caves House delivers. This nostalgic favourite is high on the list, not just for its heritage value, but also its tasty menu. On a recent visit to Caves House we enjoyed their Italian Gangster Chicken Parmigiana – complete with salami, semi dried tomato, roasted capsicum and red onion; Tandoori Chicken Salad; Fish of the Day and a melt-in-your-mouth Steak Sandwich. With several different dining areas – from the beer garden with pizza shack through to the art deco Yallingup Room and elegant terrace, there is something for everyone. Sunday roasts, soups and authentic curries are just the tonic for winter.

18 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Each pub has a signature dish that locals insist stay on the menu and at The Common it’s the Pounder Burger. Stand-out dishes include Blackened Crispy Skin Barramundi with coconut rice and pineapple salsa; Grass Fed New York Sirloin; and saucy Nashville Fried Chicken - marinaded in buttermilk and hot sauce and drenched in sweet and sour. There are some new menu items on the way too - slow cooked and smokey in time for the cooler months. Our tip: arrive for Happy Hour when not only are drinks cheap but kids’ meals are half price. For friendly, relaxed service, reasonable prices and a tasty array of seafood try Clancy’s Dunsborough. Favourite lunch options include Fish & Chips, Chilli

Mussels and the Seafood Platter which changes seasonally. There’s always a Fish of the Day and plenty of specials, plus 24 craft beer taps. With plenty of dining space bookings aren’t essential but are welcome. Amelia Park Tavern isn’t your run-ofthe-mill Tav. With 100-day grain fed scotch fillet in its steak sandwich, and beef tartare on the menu, this team isn’t mucking around. Korean Fired Chicken is a crowd pleasing feed that will have you returning to repeat the order. Amelia Park looks a million bucks but it won’t put a big dent in your back pocket. Deals include $20 Curry Nights on Wednesdays with a traditional Indian Thali, all-day steak on Thursdays (scotch fillet, chips, salad and glass of red wine for $30) and the new Sunday night Amelia Park Shank and Shiraz for $25. Enjoy with a lager or something a bit fancy like a mulberry gin with fresh fruit from the garden. Open Wednesday to Sunday, bookings recommended. One of the region’s best known and most-loved pubs is Settlers Tavern. It could be for their incredible wine list (Settlers have had multiple accolades for best wine list of the year), or maybe for nostalgic memories of surf trips with nights spent at the Tav enjoying a live band. Whatever the reason, it’s a welloiled machine with great food, warm, efficient service and an impressive selection of food, wine and beer taps. The aroma from Settlers’ American BBQ

Pit wafts down Margaret River’s main street drawing in the punters for low-n-slow Texas-style brisket, lamb ribs and pulled pork. Bookings recommended. The River pushes the boundaries beyond pub classics. The ubiquitous fish and chips and burger sit alongside Satay Margaret River Lupin Tempeh, Caramelised Brussel Sprouts and Thai Crispy Fish Salad. Most dishes come in the $20 bracket, there’s a great range of drinks and more than 40 gins available. The River delivers for its cosy ambience, friendly service and stand-out menu. It’s worth planning a trip to Augusta to experience one of these off the beaten track country pubs. The Karridale Tav or The Augusta Hotel. The Karridale Tavern is a hidden gem on the Bussell Highway. Go for the $20 Sunday Roast lunch or Spicy Wings. The Augusta Hotel has stunning views of The Blackwood and a traditional friendly vibe, toasty fires and generous servings of pub classics. Honourable mentions should go to Occy’s, which has generous share boards, and long-time favourite Cowaramup Brewing’s farmland setting and friendly staff make it worth a visit. There’s also the new Monkey Bar in Vasse for pizza and beer in the brewery’s production house, and finally the kid-friendly Bootleg Brewery, Brewhouse and Colonial have great value foodie favourites. Busselton stalwarts, The Ship Inn and Albies Bar and Bistro are also excellent digs for a parmi and pint.

•

IMAGE Russell Ord

Pubs are integral community establishments to WA’s country towns.

OPEN EVERYDAY FOR EVERYONE

eaglebaybrewing.com.au Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 19

IMAGE @ShelbytheKelpie

THE ULTIMATE 3-DAY SELF-DRIVE ART TRAIL

We start in the north, caking our hands with clay and meeting artists. Day two has us admiring super-sized bird murals and tasting wine amongst priceless art collections. Day three we venture further south for workshops and a sculpture walk.

WORDS | Lizzy Pepper

WHERE TO STAY

The Margaret River Region is a beating heart of artistic endeavour. Creatives have long been attracted by the surf, natural wonders and laidback lifestyle. Be inspired and fill your walls on this three-day self-drive art trail.

Private Properties’ Maranel is like a boutique art hotel with an impressive collection of Aboriginal art and artefacts, set on the beachfront at Eagle Bay. Just as lovely is its water views and watching boats and whales pass by. Margaret River Heartland is a fourthgeneration farm near Cowaramup owned by artist Anita Revel. It has two accommodation options: a rustic off-grid cottage and the pimped-up Glampavan. Both have fireplaces and give an immersive art experience; colourful spaces filled with original art.

20 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

www.bettenaysmargaretriver.com.au www.bettenaysmargaretriver.com.au The Wadandi Boodjarra mural tells part of the creation story of the Margaret River.

DAY 1

WINE + NOUGAT

MORNING Start with brekkie at Goanna Gallery Bush Café where you can browse local giftware or stroll the small but lovely sculpture walk. Head to Yallingup’s golden triangle of galleries and witness John Miller [Design] at work. Working with Australian-sourced materials, John creates unique handmade jewellery stamped with his signature flora and fauna.

AFTERNOON Feast on fresh pasta at Barnyard 1978 looking out over vineyards and Russell Sheridan’s fabulous sculptures. We love the huge dog and camel sculptures, free ranging chooks and the new pod-style accommodation. Meet potter Myles Happ at Happs Pottery and Icon Honey – you may have seen the good news piece about Ramsay Health’s order for 7,000 staff Christmas gifts? It saw Myles employing extra staff during WA’s first COVID-19 lockdown. Explore the studio where the magic – and pottery workshops – happens. There’s no experience needed for one of Heidi Emma’s painting workshops. Based at Flametree Wines, Heidi shares tips and techniques in two specialty classes: still life or landscape painting. Drive into Vasse to see a towering statue of Timothée Vasse, a young Frenchman who fell overboard near Busselton in 1801, presumed drowned. It was rumoured that he survived,

and a statue by Russell Sheridan commemorates him. Admire the Busselton Settlement Art Project Sculptures depicting traditional owners and pioneers, as you stroll down Queen Street. There’s a Jack Brommell mural outside Equinox Café expertly illustrating Busselton’s history. Walk the length of Busselton Jetty to see Ian Mutch’s life-size paintings of a Southern Right, Humpback and Blue Whale.

EVENING Finish the day with dinner at The Goose Beach Bar + Kitchen where local artist Chloe Wilder’s gelato-hued murals grace the walls.

DAY 2

MORNING Cowaramup is named after the ‘Cowara’ purple crowned lorikeets, and you’ll find plenty of public art dedicated to this brightly coloured parrot. Perth artist Brenton See painted a magnificent mural on the shed in Pioneer Park, and Anita Revel painted ‘Cowara Dreaming’ – giant wings inviting you to pose for a photo, on the Cowaramup Agencies building. Brenton also painted the scene on the Moon Haven shopfront, which sells handmade soaps and skincare. Pop into Mukau Gallery for a selection of local art and occasional demos by artist Fi Wilkie. You’ll find exhibitions at many wineries,

WINE + NOUGAT In the heart of the IM n a tr h a irvte ro fWti h g aer ehte R n ee M a r g a r eRte gRi iovne r W i n e

Region

OPEN 7 DAYS

O P9E: 3N 0 a m7 - D 5 pA mYS 9:30am - 5pm To find us

Book a wine & nougat pairing session or Book aCome wine for & nougat our complimentary nougat pairing session tastingor & watch the team in action through Come for our the viewing window

To find us

complimentary nougat tasting & watch the 248 Tom Cullity Drive, Cowaramup team in action through the viewing window

248 Tom Cullity Drive, Cowaramup

IMAGE Tim Campbell

and one of our favourites is Thompson Estate. They’re in the process of acquiring enough sculptures to create a sculpture trail through the vineyard, some which you might recognise from Sculpture by the Sea. John Streater Fine Furniture showcases his signature cone tables and other marri, sheoak and blackbutt furniture alongside art, sculpture and blown glass by a selection of artisans. Two surfing mates started JahRoc Gallery 30 years ago and have taken it from fine furniture roots to one of WA’s most respected galleries. We’re looking forward to exhibitions by Lauren Wilhelm and Helen Norton.

COMING UP

Margaret River Region Open Studios sees 100+ artists open their private studios to the public from 11 to 26 September 2021. Meet artists such as Leon Pericles, Rebecca Cool, Lauren Wilhelm, Rachel Coad and Mary-Lynne Stratton.

IMAGE Osprey Creative

AFTERNOON Vasse Felix and Leeuwin Estate have art collections which are a must-visit for any art lover. Vasse Felix has seasonal exhibitions, and the gallery extends outdoors with a sculpture walk through the garden. Treat yourself to a guided wine tasting, a memorable lunch in the restaurant upstairs, or charcuterie and wine by the fireplace. Venture south to Leeuwin Estate, where works by John Olsen, Sir Sidney Nolan and Fred Williams grace the Art Series wine labels. Browse a portion of the

22 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Estate’s collection in the gallery and buy some Art Series wine – this is one time you’re encouraged to buy wine for its beautiful label, knowing it’s some of the region’s finest. Watch Tova Hoffman at her pottery wheel at Dilkes-Hoffman Studio Ceramics and pick gifts to take home. If you’re one to commemorate holidays with tattoos, check out Artful Ink Margs. Their talented team will turn your ideas into creative – and permanent – tattoo art.

EVENING There’s art at every turn on Margaret River’s recently reopened main street. Grab dinner at Burger Baby with a giant goddess mural by Chloe Wilder keeping watch. Stroll to Yonder Bar for an afterdinner drink and check out Jack Brommell’s vivid blue mural nearby. Look for the Kyle Hughes-Odgers and Ian Mutch collab in front of the Visitor Centre.

MARGARET RIVER

Festival

IMAGE Rusty Creighton

Look carefully in Cowaramup and you’ll see free living art exhibitions all around you.

Half V Readers & Writers Fest

DAY 3

Book a hands-on workshop. Francesco Geronazzo of Margaret River Printmaking learnt traditional techniques in his homeland Italy, which he shares in a range of workshops. Take inspiration from nature as Francesco covers foundation skills of printing and micro publishing.

AFTERNOON Have another decadent dining experience at Xanadu, where Emily Jackson has her bright collage-style art on display. Head to Witchcliffe to see what’s happening at Hardware Creative, a photographic and design studio where there’s always live art, photoshoots or workshops taking place. Grab a wedge of cake and coffee at Yardbyrd Café; an eclectic space with delicious food. Cut across to Caves Road for a spectacular drive through karri forest, arriving at Boranup Gallery and their awesome array of designer hardwood furniture, paintings, sculptures, jewellery and ceramics. Venture further south and explore Margaret River Sculpture Park and its 10 acres of large-scale sculptures. Chainsaw artist Brendan Booth offers sunrise and sunset tours of the park, which sprawls over limestone terrain just near Hamelin Bay.

WRITTEN WORLDS

14–16 MAY 2021

A 3-day storytelling spectacular featuring top Australian and International authors, journalists, innovators and thinkers. Hosted live from the spectacular Margaret River region. FEATURING

Jane Caro Bob Brown Julia Baird Craig Silvey Pip Williams Dr Robert Isaacs PLUS MANY MORE

Real-world & virtual ticket packages now on sale at: www.mrrwfestival.com/buytickets/ SUPPORTED BY

•

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 23

ILLUSTRATION BY EMILY JACKSON

MORNING

1. Decide if you’ll hike solo or join a guided tour “If you’re keen, you can hike the Track carrying all your own food, water and sleeping gear. But it’s a slog!” says Gene Hardy. “We take care of everything so

IMAGE Cape to Cape Explorer Tours

THE CAPE TO CAPE TRACK is hands-down one of the best multi-day hikes in the world. “It’s got everything from towering forests to some of the best beaches you’ll find anywhere,” says Cape to Cape Explorer Tours director Gene Hardy. “Amazing wildflowers and orchids, epic coastal views and challenging terrain from limestone cliffs to huge granite marbles dating back 600 million years. It’s mind blowing!” Gene and other Cape to Cape hike leaders provided some top tips on how to tackle this hike.

they can walk with just a day pack and really enjoy the magic of the Track!” Check out Cape to Cape Explorer Tours, Walk Into Luxury and Edgewalkers who offer a range of day and half-day hikes, 3-5 day highlights tours, or the entire 123km over a week.

2. Join the Facebook Group and buy the book Search Facebook for ‘Cape to Cape Track (Western Australia)’, a public group where you can ask questions and read about other people’s experiences. Wondering where to leave your car, or whether a particular river crossing is possible – consult the brains trust. The Cape to Cape Track Guidebook features detailed descriptions, distance tables and maps. It shares tips about camping and water refill stations as well as how to break the 123km track into manageable day hikes. The book is available at the region’s Visitor’s Centres. 3. Start training “We always urge our hikers to put in some training and preparation before they come. Particularly, do some beach walking as

IMAGE Ross Wyness

INSIDER TIPS

HIKING THE CAPE TO CAPE TRACK WORDS

24 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

LIZZY PEPPER

there is a bit of soft sand. Wear comfortable shoes that are worn in and take a back-up pair of runners if you start to get any hot spots on your feet” said Gene Hardy.

5. Pack light and use local services Dr Erika Jacobson leads guided hikes and creativity retreats through Edgewalkers, “With Margaret River being so close to the track, it’s easy to make this experience as rugged and low budget or as high end and deluxe, as you like. If you camp on the track, stay at the designated

IMAGE Elements Margaret River

4. Choose your season Autumn and spring are ideal; ‘goldilocks’ weather and the wildflowers are glorious. Winter can be great too, watching whales pass by. But if you’re hiking in summer? “I started on a 36-degree day, and if you can delay your walk by a day, I’d recommend it. Otherwise start your day at 4.30/5am and make sure you’re finished walking by 11ish.” says Jess Bear who hiked in January.

camping spots along the way, or use a local driving service to transfer you to and from one of many accommodation choices in the region. If you’re camping, take some dehydrated meals and high energy snacks and if you’re staying in accommodation you can eat out every night, cook for yourself, or

Walking and chatting with children on the Track is a great way to connect.

have a caterer come in and cook for you!” 6. Safety first Mobile phone coverage is scarce on the track, so solo walker Jess Bear hired a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) as a

Getting there is half the fun Kick back, relax and explore the scenic Transwa Margaret River region on one of our luxury road coaches.

Half

Western Australia’s South West is rich in history, culture and stunning natural landscapes. Our five-star road coaches are fully accessible and air conditioned, with on board entertainment, including on demand entertainment streaming services to your own device, USB ports and toilet facilities. We travel between Margaret River and Perth 12 times a week and offer a variety of concessional discounts. Unwind and enjoy the scenery while we do the driving. Plan your journey by visiting transwa.wa.gov.au or call 1300 662 205. Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 25

IMAGE Walk into Luxury

precaution. “I carried a PLB that I hired from the Bibbulmun Foundation. It was $90 for two weeks. I’d recommend this for peace of mind.”

Talk to these Cape to Cape Tour specialists:

7. Marvel at the wildlife Prepare to see some wonderful critters along the way, says Hayley Betteridge of Walk Into Luxury. “Many animals along the track are nocturnal, so it can be quiet during the day, but look out for bandicoot, quenda, chuditch and brush-tail possums at dawn and dusk.” Gene Hardy keeps an eye on the ocean; “It’s where pods of frolicking dolphins and majestic humpback and southern right whales can be spied. Oh, and don’t miss

Walk Into Luxury walkintoluxury.com.au

IMAGE Cape to Cape Explorer Tours

Cape to Cape Explorer Tours capetocapetours.com.au

Edgewalkers edgewalkers.com.au

IMAGE Lucy Laucht

Unspoilt views to yourself give hiking the Cape to Cape an addictive quality.

the friendly stingrays at Hamelin Bay!”

continue the hike 5.88km.

8. Take a short day hike Strapped for time? Take a half or full day hike with a guided group for an immersive experience, or try one of our favourite sections: Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse to Sugarloaf return – wheelchair accessible boardwalk, 5km return. Smiths Beach to Canal Rocks loop – stunning rock formations and swimming opportunities. Approx 5.3km return. Quininup Brook to Wilyabrup Brook See the Quininup waterfall in winter then

9. Tips for families Valeriya Kovalshen, her husband and three kids aged two, five and seven walked the Cape to Cape over nine days in January, with the youngest carried in an Ergo; “Was our trip easy? No. Was it all worth it? Totally yes… We got to know our kids better. We had plenty of time (undistracted time) to talk to them, to listen to their thoughts and dreams.” Valeriya’s tips for families? “Test kids on easier hikes. We did plenty of day hikes as a family and two multi day hikes.”

26 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

And motivate your kids; “Kids do not hike for the sake of hiking. You need to create some sort of motivation for them.” Valeriya had pre-arranged hidden treasure and a map, “Our three kids still believe the treasures were hidden by someone many years ago. The only thing which puzzled them was how this mysterious person knew to hide exactly three items per each zip-lock bag!” 10. Enjoy your ‘aha!’ moment When asked about special moments on the track, Gene Hardy couldn’t narrow it down to one, “There’s the kangaroo attack. The tsunami. And the storm. The main “aha” moment for me comes when I see the reaction from our hikers. They’re living busy lives and they get out on the Track and you can just see the change in their face, their mood and their entire being. Sharing that with people in incredible. It’s a privilege.”

•

LORI PENSINI Wildflower

3 - 18 April 2021 The Studio Gallery proudly presents a new exhibition by award winning artist Lori Pensini.This new collection is an explosion of natural beauty. Through the language of flowers (Floriography), Lori explores individualism through the expression of Australian wildflowers, embracing and defining our own inner strengths. “ The works highlight the uniqueness of the Australian landscape and how vital it is to our mental and physical being to be connected or reconnected to it” Lori Pensini, 2021

Meet the artist at the official opeing on Saturday 3rd April at 5:30PM

Set alongside an award winning restaurant, The Studio Gallery represents artists both local and Australia wide.

Studio Gallery FP

Bronwen Newbury

Dorothy Davies

Mel Brigg

Henryk Szydlowski

Ayad Alqaragholli

The Studio Bistro Head Chef Chris Mitchell and his team showcase their culinary creativity and freedom through small plate dining, offering you the opportunity to try a variety of dishes.

Where great food and art come together... Bistro Lunch Wednesday - Sunday Dinner Saturday Evenings / 27 7 Marringup Drive, Yallingup Gallery Open 10am DailyTales & Trails / margaretriver.com (300m from Caves Rd) P 08 9756 6164 W thestudiobistro.com.au P 08 9756 6371 W thestudiogallery.com.au

IMAGE Damien Warr

It only took a global pandemic to quickly make us realise how much we as humans rely on nature, and how much our minds crave it. And in a world that seems to be changing every minute, it remains the only constant. It grounds us. It feeds and nurtures us. 28 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

LOW

IMPACT

LIVING: NOT A HOTEL

FOR ALL THE RIGHT REASONS WORDS | Jinna Yang

WE HAVE BEEN incredibly blessed here in the Margaret River Region – to be able to explore, move and dance despite global lockdowns and closed borders. Our opportunities for travel have changed, yet collectively our souls reach for the same: space to stretch our bodies, quiet our minds and breathe deeper. We sometimes overlook the power that tiny changes, made over time, can impact our lives and our world. It begins with us, making small decisions that reinforce the values we want to share. Can we collectively try to consume less, slow down, connect and enjoy nature? If you’ve been curious about how to integrate more of these values into your everyday living, take a moment to be inspired by the creators of Petit Eco House.

Architecturally-designed to keep nature in mind, the Petit Eco House is a private cabin set above a vineyard, backing onto the lake on a certified organic farm at Windows Estate. It is a quiet retreat, powered by solar, built with locallysourced products to showcase Australian talent and craftsmanship. Owners Joanne and Chris of Windows Estate wanted to use the Petit Eco House as an opportunity to get people to experience nature again, and do so in a way that creates less impact on our environment. So you can feel better knowing that the rainwater you bathe in gets recycled onto the fruit trees. The food waste from your stay is fed to the chooks/ducks and geese on the farm. The handmade bowls you

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 29

/ A STAY AT THE CABIN IS ABOUT DISCONNECTING FROM A BUSY LIFE AND RECONNECTING WITH NATURE OR SOMEONE SPECIAL /

use for breakfast supported a local artist. The space is a breath of fresh air. It welcomes ample natural sunlight through energy-efficient glass, with views from every window of the farm or vineyard. The feature waterfall window runs from the roof down to the bedroom floor, so you can wake up to the trees during the day and fall asleep watching the stars at night. All of the furniture is made locally from timber milled by Joanne’s father,

30 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

from logs that have fallen over the last 20 years on the family farm. A stay at the cabin is about disconnecting from a busy life and reconnecting with nature or someone special. There is no WiFi or TV. It invites you to slow down. Pause. Be present. Breathe. Indulge in the art of doing nothing. Read a book in the outdoor bath on the edge of the lake. Curl up on the daybed watching the birds fly through the

trees. Stretch outside on the wrap-around deck overlooking the vineyard. Keep warm with the indoor fireplace during the cooler months, then use the baker’s oven to roast fresh produce for dinner. We are all so privileged to be here on this land. Take only what you need, and be thankful for what you have. These are the values that Joanne and Chris live by, and what they hope to share with the world.

•

HIDDEN IN THE HEART OF THE REGION, A DREAM HAS GROWN ...

This beautiful cabin follows the less is more principle of design and is a reminder about building only what is needed and no more.

HIDDEN IN THE HEART OF THE REGION, HIDDEN IN THE HEART A DREAM HAS GROWN ... OF THE REGION, A DREAM HAS GROWN ... • Totally unirrigated vines, planted by the Berson family 22 unirrigated years ago vines, Totally unirrigated vines,planted planted •• Totally bythe theBerson Bersonfamily family24 22years yearsago ago by • Award-winning Chardonnay Award-winning Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon wines •• International award-winning and Cabernet Chardonnay andSauvignon Cabernet wines

• Best Small cellar Sauvignon door, Margaret • Best Smallwines cellar door, Margaret River 2019 Gourmet Traveller

RiverSmall 2019Cellar Gourmet Traveller • Best Door, Margaret • New release wines: River 2019 Gourmet Traveller • New release wines: 2018 Pinot Noir,• 2019 2018 Rosé Pinot Noir, 2019 Rosé Family-owned • 100% estate grown small batch wines

www.victorypointwines.com Ph 0417 954 655 | 0451 344 803 Cellar door: / 31 Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

92 Holben Road, Cowaramup WA

The Rise and Rise of Malbec Malbec wine is ‘hot property’ in Margaret River right now with demand exceeding supply. I spoke to three winemakers in the region about this ‘trending’ grape. WORDS | Fergal Gleeson A brief history of Malbec

Juniper Estate

Malbec goes right back to the start of the Margaret River winemaking story. It was blended with Cabernet Sauvignon in the region’s first red wine made by Tom Cullity of Vasse Felix. In a nice piece of symmetry Vasse Felix’s current Winemaker Virginia Willcock has reintroduced Malbec into the blend with Cabernet Sauvignon in their greatest red ‘Tom Cullity’. Malbec’s origins are in the southwest of France. In Cahors it makes rustic, tannic wines that require ageing. In nearby Bordeaux, it is rare and is used as a blending grape. Today Malbec is the fourth most widely planted red varietal in Margaret River after the ‘big three’ of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot.

Experienced Juniper Estate Winemaker Mark Messenger has seen the rise in interest in Malbec. “There is a real appetite for different varietals and Malbec ticks a lot of boxes with its approachability yet also its ability for a dense, rich, ripe red too,” Mark tells me. Juniper Estate released their first single varietal Malbec in 2014 as a cellar door release to gauge consumer response. It was overwhelmingly positive. Mark now makes three different Malbecs. He jokes, “So you could say I am strongly committed to Margaret River Malbec!” “The Juniper Estate Malbec is a serious style with structure and will age, but we have introduced an easy early drinking style under our Higher Plane label which

32 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

is made using carbonic maceration (whole bunch ferment) and is bottled shortly after vintage for immediate drinking being a soft, juicy and spicy style. I also make a Malbec under my own label, ‘Beneath The Kite’”. Mark tells me that Malbec is known as a versatile grape with winemakers as it can be blended with any of the Bordeaux varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) and also Shiraz. “Recognition of this wonderful variety is still growing,” Mark says. “When you have neighbours (Vasse Felix) reintroducing Cabernet Malbec as their flagship wine the future for Malbec in Margaret River is assured. We are planting more Malbec for our straight

varietal wines for Juniper and Higher Plane as demand is out stripping supply.”

Cullen Wines Cullen Wines, one of Margaret River’s founding wineries also has a long history with Malbec. Cullen Wines make a ‘Preservative Free’ Malbec as well as two delicious Malbec and Petit Verdot blends ‘Red Moon’ and ‘Mangan Estate Block’. Proprietor and highly awarded Winemaker Vanya Cullen also sees Malbec as a varietal on the rise right across many Australian wine regions. I ask her about why she blends Malbec with Petit Verdot. “Malbec gives the power, unctuous fruit and flowers. Also violets, roses and mulberry. Petit Verdot gives the line and mineral acidity. They are a perfect pair like Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon”, she says. I asked Vanya to compare Margaret River Malbec to Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon for drinkers who are less familiar with the varietal. “Malbec is a variety better suited to Margaret River’s Mediterranean maritime conditions than Shiraz,” she tells me. The Mediterranean maritime conditions are perfect for this grape variety to grow an elegant style.”

Fraser Gallop Fraser Gallop Estate’s Winemaker Clive Otto is also very excited about Malbec. “I have always thought Malbec a bit of an unsung Hero in Margaret River,” Clive tells me. “The violet perfume of the variety is quite intoxicating and quite different tannin profile from Cabernet Sauvignon, I like to say it has front of mouth tannins whereas Cabernet Sauvignon has back palate tannins.” “It is more light to medium bodied (Malbec and Pinot) rather than full bodied

(Cabernet Sauvignon) and has lovely Damson Plum flavours with a succulent mid palate.” Fraser Gallop Estate’s Malbec typically sells out within a month or two from release. Clive reckons that we will see more and more Malbec in it’s own right and as a blender for Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. “It’s becoming more popular than Merlot in Margaret River as it has more perfume and less green notes than the predominant Merlot clone we have here,” he tells me.

•

Malbec grapes have an inky dark colour and robust tannins.

Food Pairing Suggestions MARK MESSENGER | Juniper Estate Grilled mushrooms, to pasta to barbecued/grilled meats, to just a lovely glass on its own! VANYA CULLEN | Cullen Wines Beetroot risotto lamb shanks. CLIVE OTTO | Fraser Gallop The style we make here would pair nicely with duck, rabbit or game dishes.

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 33

THE WHALE SUPERHIGHWAY – often referred to as the Humpback Highway, is the 3000km stretch of coastline from northern Western Australia, to their feeding grounds in Antarctica. Today, Western Australia has the largest population of migratory humpbacks in the world, seeing 35,000 of the mammals travel this stretch of water annually. There is something exquisite about whales. Symbolically they are associated with emotion, inner

PHOTO ESSAY

THE WHALE

SUPERHIGHWAY

IMAGES Tim Campbell

truth and creativity, and seeing one out in the sea is a rather allegorical experience. Tim Campbell lives in Dunsborough and is a photographer passionate about ocean and coastal themes. His photo essay, The Whale Superhighway, shows an immense gratitude to nature. Tim’s often out in a tinny on the water but says if you don’t have your own – to jump on a tour boat. “The masters and crew that run these tours live and breathe all things cetacean so a day trip out on a whale boat is more than just an exercise in whale spotting, it’s an education.” Thanks for the inspiration Tim.

34 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

/ THERE IS SOMETHING EXQUISITE ABOUT WHALES /

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 35

36 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Some of the region’s excellent whale watching tours include: • • • • • •

Naturaliste Charters - Whale Watching & Eco Tours All Sea Charters Whale Watching Jet Adventures Legend Charters Whale Watching Leeuwin Marine Charters Whale Watch Western Australia

Visit margaretriver.com/activities/whale-watching to book a tour

/ A DAY TRIP OUT ON A WHALE BOAT IS MORE THAN JUST AN EXERCISE IN WHALE SPOTTING, IT’S AN EDUCATION / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 37

IMAGE Elise Taylor

Rejuvenate your senses on a wellness weekend that will recharge your soul. Pack your bags and escape for a few days in the Margaret River Region, where you can immerse yourself in nature and unwind in ultimate luxury. WORDS | Danielle Costley

THE ULTIMATE

WELLNESS WEEKEND

PLAY

Begin your day with a gentle Hatha yoga session at Devahiti Yoga. Explore the mental and physical benefits of yoga for the mind, body and soul. This style of yoga is suitable for all levels and will help you create strength and mobility, as well as body awareness. Even if you have never tried yoga before, this class will teach you to realign your body through breath awareness. Public and private sessions are available from various locations, including the Dunsborough Yacht Club and Dunsborough Country Club, and yoga by the bay in Dunsborough during the warmer months. You can also

38 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

arrange bespoke private lessons complete with local tea-tastings to come to your accommodation. Afterwards, cleanse your soul with a Scandinavian Kaarna Sauna. This Finnish woodfired mobile sauna can be delivered to your dream destination – whether it’s Surfers Point, parked hillside on a parcel of farmland, or overlooking a vineyard. Ideally, go for a swim in the ocean while you wait for the sauna to heat to your desired temperature. Relax your stresses away as you bask in the sauna and flush the toxins from your body. The increased circulation will leave you feeling energised. Treat yourself to some jewellery

shopping with a quick stop at John Miller Designs studio at Yallingup, or on the main strip in Margaret River. Inside, you will find an impressive selection of exquisite jewellery. There are engagement and wedding rings, wearable pieces of art, and dress rings – all made from genuine and conflict-free stones.

EAT

Just off Caves Road in Yallingup you will find Arimia Estate, an off-the-grid and sustainable organic farm where most of the produce on its menu has been grown on its farm. Sit outside on the deck and overlook the tranquil natural bush environment,

IMAGES Russell Ord

Unwind in a hammock outside your glamping tent at Olio Bello then dine at Glenarty Road in Karridale.

whilst savouring the restaurant’s impressive six-course degustation menu. Spoil yourself with a small glass of organic wine, such as their rosé. Fine-tune your breadmaking skills in a sourdough workshop at One Table Farm. In this comprehensive class, you will learn how to manage your sourdough starter, as well as discover shaping options and timetables. Or there is an authentic paddock to plate food farm experience, where you pick fresh produce from the garden and cook a variety of dishes that you later share with the group over a glass of wine. You will also learn the principles of regenerative and permaculture farming. As you venture south of Margaret River, you will discover the Glenarty Road restaurant and vineyard in Karridale. This farm is blanketed in fresh produce

with fruit trees, vegetable patches, a hop garden, 17 different cultivars, and grassfed sheep. Much of this produce can be found on its wholesome menu, which changes regularly due to seasonality. Indulge yourself with a glass of its Kerfuffle wine.

STAY

Located in Yallingup, you will find premium chalet accommodation at Premalaya. Nestled amidst the forest, this is a place where you are encouraged to live in the moment and practise the art of life balance. Let the sounds of the forest lull you to sleep, whilst the cleansing breeze of the Indian Ocean greets you in the morning. Retreat into this secluded patch of paradise, book in for a massage or yoga class, or arrange for a platter to be delivered to your doorstep.

Disappear from the world in a luxury lakeside bungalow at Olio Bello. Connect with nature and its abundance of wildlife in safari style glamping at this organic olive grove, with a complimentary grazing platter upon arrival. Relax on your private deck and watch the sun’s gradual decline over the lake in this unique accommodation experience. Wind down in a self-sustained eco luxury pod at Barn Hives in Yallingup. Smith’s Beach is only minutes away from these contemporary pods, which overlook a vineyard and are surrounded by the Barnyard Bees farm. The industrial architecture was guided by nature to create sustainable accommodation that blends seamlessly into the prolific bush landscape. Dine on homemade pasta, or order a share platter of olives, bread, charred meats and pickles from Barnyard 1978, right next door.

•

HANDCRAFTING WINES OF PROVENANCE SINCE 1986 WINE TASTING

REGIONAL PRODUCE

PICNIC AREA

CELLAR DOOR OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FROM 10AM - 5PM Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 39 08 9756 5200 | 543 Miamup Road, Margaret River, WA | cellardoor@hpw.com.au www.howardparkwines.com.au

THE TRAVELLING VEGETARIAN Eating Sustainably across the Margaret River Region

The Margaret River Region is brimming with incredible vegetarian fare, so long as you know where to look. Here are ten vegetarian friendly spots worth checking out when you’re down south in WA. WORDS : Sarah Robinson

1. Fair Harvest in Margaret River Once a month on a Sunday, Fair Harvest opens its doors to serve whatever is in season from their amazing permaculture garden. There are two lunch sittings, where guests can choose from a vegan or vegetarian option. All produce is sourced straight from the farm or from local producers. Visitors are more than welcome to explore the beautiful property on the day. Bookings are a must though!

40 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

DISCOVER THE ULTIMATE OLIVE OIL EXPERIENCE

SOAP | GOURMET FOOD | SKIN CARE | WORKSHOPS LOCAL TIP: Stop at the Farmers’ Market on a Saturday morning to meet the local producers.

2. The Ragged Robin in Augusta Owner Tash creates the most delicious vegetarian delights, best enjoyed on a cosy couch overlooking the Hardy Inlet. The vegetarian patties are next level - just like the coffee, homemade cakes and exceptional banter. When your tummy is full, wander the vintage store connected to the café and marvel at the curiousities for sale. The Ragged Robin feels like a good old warm hug.

3. The Good Egg in Busselton This little family-run café creates fresh vegetarian dishes jampacked with flavour. Owner Deb says their menu changes on a seasonal basis, so there is always something different to try. The Good Egg is open for breakfast and lunch, and there’s even a co-working space upstairs, which can be hired for study or work. Deb is passionate about creating wholesome and healthy dishes that are good for the body and soul.

4. Cullen Wines in Wilyabrup Cullen’s winter menu is laden with impressive vegetarian options, like delicious soups, curries and gnocchi, created with produce largely sourced from their biodynamic, carbon positive garden. Owner and winemaker Vanya Cullen says the concept is to have a beautiful, edible garden. “We now have five gardens, including of course, the Cullen vineyard itself.” Lunch happens Friday to Tuesday. Be sure to book in.

SOAP FACTORY & WORKSHOPS 135 Puzey Road, Wilyabrup WA | Ph. (08) 9755 6111

Open daily (bookings essential for workshops) Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 41 www.vassevirgin.com.au

/ THERE ARE MANY GIFTED PERSONAL CHEFS IN THE MARGARET RIVER REGION /

IMAGE Russell Ord

5. The Farmers’ Market in Margaret River Every Saturday the Margaret River Farmers’ Market bustles with locals and holiday makers. Stalls are run by amazing local farmers and makers, dedicated to bringing you the best produce in the region. Pick up your fruit and veg, grab a coffee or enjoy a dish from one of the vego friendly local food vans. All while taking in the sounds of live music from the talented buskers who shred nearby.

6. Peko Peko, Dunsborough Peko Peko is a Japanese inspired café/ restaurant open from 10am – 8pm, so serving from lunch through to dinner. Incredible vegetarian sushi rolls, salads and soups are made on the spot with fresh ingredients. Part of the café’s unique appeal is the courtyard garden, where you can enjoy a bowl of lentil miso, vegetable gyoza and a feel-good salad. Or choose takeaway and enjoy back at your accommodation. Peko Peko also specialises in catering if you’re looking to host an event.

7. Blue Manna Bistro in Dunsborough If you’re a pescatarian, then Blue Manna is the spot to get your seafood fix. Nearly all of their fish is caught fresh in Australia, with most line caught locally in WA, then prepared for you in their kitchen. Blue Manna is passionate about sourcing their oysters, scallops, squid and all of their seafood sustainably, which makes their tasty dishes even more special. They’re open Tuesday to Saturday until late.

42 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

8. A private chef in your holiday home There are many gifted personal private chefs in the Margaret River Region who can visit your holiday home and prepare a mouthwatering meal for you and your guests. Like Spice Mistress Sarina Kamini, who loves to prepare traditional Kashmiri dishes for lovers of Indian Food. Tiller Dining is another great private chef in the region. George creates memorable private dining experiences, using food grown fresh on his own farm in the South West.

9. Aravina Estate in Yallingup Aravina Estate isn’t just famous for its world-class wines and stunning vineyard, they’re also dishing up incredible food. Choose a vegetarian option from the winter menu and pair it with one of their many premium wines. Let the kids enjoy the playground while you take in the

breathtaking views. And then order a bit more wine for good measure. Just be sure someone is skippering, so you stay safe on the road!

10. The Berry Farm in Rosa Glen Head to the Cottage Café at the Berry Farm for delectable vegetarian dishes. Like their vegetarian tart, hearty niçoise salad or all of the fresh cakes and treats you could ever dream of. This charming little café has a kids menu (and playground), which makes it a great spot for the whole family. When you’re done, visit the cellar door to taste some delicious sparkling fruit wines, cider and ports, or head to the farm garden for some berry picking. For more amazing vegetarian food in the Margaret River Region search online or ask at the Visitor’s Centre in town.

•

IMAGE Tim Campbell

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 43

A TALE OF TWO LIGHTHOUSES WORDS | Lizzy Pepper

Construction Until gold was discovered in Kalgoorlie, Western Australia simply didn’t have the funds for ligthhouses, and the Eastern states weren’t interested in helping foot the bill. Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse was first mooted in 1881 to protect shipping between Fremantle and Albany, and in 1896, the Premier Sir John Forrest turned on the lamp at the new lighthouse, mainland Australia’s tallest. Eight years later in 1903, Cape Naturaliste lighthouse was commissioned. The lighthouses were built from locally quarried limestone, but the design was distinctly British. The Chance Brothers in landlocked Birmingham, England, engineered mechanical and optical components for approximately 2,000 lighthouses around the world. The ship carrying the original 12-tonne Fresnel lens for Cape Leeuwin disappeared after

44 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

leaving England and the mystery of its fate remains today. It never reached its destination, but the replacement is still working perfectly, 125 years later.

Lighthouse Keepers – the early days Visit either lighthouse and you’ll note three small, stone cottages. Three lightkeepers and their families called the cottages home, and they’d grow their own veggies and home school their kids, as the respective towns of Dunsborough and Augusta were a half day journey by horse and buggy, and food was delivered but once a month. The keeper’s lives revolved around night watches, winding the clockwork and pumping kerosene into the burner. It was a hard and isolating job, but essential work to protect the passing boats. The lighthouse keepers were no stranger to tragedy; Cape Naturaliste’s first keeper, Carl Hansen lost his wife as she gave birth to twins in 1904, then his son died five years later of rheumatic fever in cottage one. Families got along because they had to, there was no other choice. Gradually over time, life at the lighthouses became more comfortable and less dangerous; electricity was connected and sealed roads made it easier to visit town. Eventually the romantic era of manned lighthouses ended and both Cape Leeuwin and Cape Naturaliste were fully automated. Operated, like other lighthouses, by the Australian Maritime Safety Authority, these towers remain a vital beacon to guide shipping and warn of the dangers of coming too close to the rugged coastline.

Experience the lighthouses on a guided tour

IMAGE Scott Slawinski

THE PRISTINE COASTLINE of the Margaret River Region was a wild and dangerous place to navigate for ships sailing blind 125 years ago, and scores of boats ended their journeys wrecked on our reefs. After much negotiation and a lucky gold rush, lighthouses were commissioned at Cape Leeuwin then Cape Naturaliste and have kept sailors safe ever since. The maritime stories of these sailors are a mere drop in the ocean compared to visiting one of these historical treasures. Take a guided tour to hear tales of the lighthouse keepers and the hardships they faced. Climb the original stairs, feel the slap of the salty sea gusts and hear the roar of waves crashing against rocks.

It’s easy for us to forget what a harrowing experience it must have been, rounding Cape Leeuwin in a timber ship 200 or so years ago. The Lightkeepers Cottage Interpretive Centre opened at Cape Leeuwin in December 2019, and won a WA Heritage Award shortly after. You can browse old photos and possessions, practice Morse Code in an interactive game and hear amazing stories from the keepers, their wives and children. Both Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin Lighthouses are open to the public each day and guided tours include plenty of historic stories and a climb to the top of the lighthouse where you’re treated to a fabulous ocean view. Bookings are essential at margaretriverattractions.com.

•

/ IT WAS A HARD AND ISOLATING JOB, BUT ESSENTIAL WORK TO PROTECT THE PASSING BOATS /

FUN FACT: The south west WA coast had 23 shipwrecks before the construction of Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, and only one since!

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 45

GUIDE TO:

GALLERIES OF THE MARGARET RIVER REGION With so much natural beauty it’s no wonder artists from around the globe have chosen to call the Margaret River Region home. You can find their work represented year-round in local galleries. Here’s a guide to some of the stand-out plus lesser-known galleries from north to south. BUSSELTON & VASSE ArtGeo Gallery (Old Courthouse complex) is home of the annual City of Busselton Art Award in the heart of Busselton in a beautiful neo classical building. Enjoy a program of dynamic temporary and collection-based exhibitions. artgeo.com.au Nathan Day is a timber craftsman designing and creating pieces in a modern style using traditional furniture making techniques at Nathan Day Design. Open by appointment. nathandaydesign.com.au

DUNSBOROUGH Christian Fletcher is an award-winning photographer of more than 30 years, capturing perfect light in nature. As well as framed limited-edition images, books, journals and textiles, Christian Fletcher Gallery visitors are now welcomed by two

46 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

new permanent sculpture installations. christianfletcher.com.au Happs Pottery is home to Myles Happ’s working pottery studio and showroom displaying wheel-thrown and hand built functional pieces. Take a lesson with artists in residence Finn and Harry and try some of Myles’ delicious Icon Honey while you’re there! happspottery.com.au There’s so much to love when art and food come together. Enjoy the rustic charm of Goanna Gallery with art and giftware by local and emerging artists. The café food is also exceptional. goannacafe.com.au Happs Wine has a long heritage of pottery production and visitors to the recently renamed Commonage Pottery Gallery can see resident potter Gary Hambleton’s work

along with a variety of pottery by local artists. Workshops are available for beginners and professionals and some exciting collaborations are planned. happs.com.au Opened in February between Dunsborough restaurant favourites Yarri and Blue Manna, Bay Gallery features work by established and emerging south west and Bibbulmun Aboriginal Artists. bayfurniture.com.au

YALLINGUP Yallingup Galleries is an iconic gallery in a beautiful bush setting choc-full of paintings, sculpture, furniture, jewellery, glassware and ceramics by recognised Australian artists. yallingupgalleries.com.au Gunyulgup Gallery is a must-visit for art appreciators. More than 70 artists

and craftspeople are represented in this appealing light-filled gallery with regularly changing paintings, prints, sculpture, ceramics, glass, jewellery and textiles. gunyulgupgalleries.com.au Visit The Studio Gallery and stay for lunch at the Bistro. The contemporary, bright exhibition space showcases leading Australian artists with two special exhibitions planned for Autumn and Winter: Wildflower by Lori Pensini (April 1-18) and a Group Exhibition (July 3-18). thestudiogallery.com.au John Miller Design creates distinctive jewellery designs treasured by longtime clients. The wearable art pieces are inspired by nature and the elements in hand-worked gold and sterling silver pieces. John Miller Designs is also located in Margaret River. johnmillerdesign.com Master Potter Ian Beniston creates stunning handcrafted pottery and ceramic art from his gallery, Sensei Pots, surrounded by bush and bamboo gardens. senseipots.com.au John Streater’s name is synonymous with fine furniture craftsmanship in Western

Australia. Visit his rural John Streater Fine Furniture studio to watch him at work and appreciate works by guest artists. streaterfinefurniture.com For a gallery with something different, check out Aravina Estate, which features WA’s first official surfing museum and a sports car gallery of ever-changing cars and motorbikes. aravinaestate.com

WILYABRUP / METRICUP / COWARAMUP Potter Bill Meiklejohn creates imaginative ocean-inspired sculptures and functional pieces in his rustic Wilyabrup Dreaming Pottery studio in a peaceful bushland setting. Talented young painters Chloe Wilder, Carmen Griffen and Monique Lewis and ceramicist Jolene Hewison (River Ceramics) share the Evans & Tate Studio space, located in the winery’s original cellar door. Cherubino Wines is now home to a regional Linton & Kay gallery, displaying works from selected contemporary West Australian and Australian artists. lintonandkay.com.au Appreciate the impressive garden

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 47

/ WITH SO MUCH NATURAL BEAUTY IT’S NO WONDER ARTISTS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE HAVE CHOSEN TO CALL THE MARGARET RIVER REGION HOME /

Treeton Fine Wood Studio craftsman Adrian van den Ouweland has been designing and making furniture for more than 25 years. treetonfinewoodstudio.com.au

MARGARET RIVER The association of Leeuwin Estate Wines and art began with the launch of its now-famous Art Series wine labels and has since become a collection of more than 150 paintings by artists the likes of John Olsen, Arthur Boyd, and Sir Sidney Nolan. Most are on display in the gallery. leeuwinestate.com.au sculpture walk before experiencing a fine art immersion in the Vasse Felix Gallery. A special exhibition, Intimacy, is on until May 16, offering a look at the past through the lens of the present and in particular the state that overcame humanity throughout 2020. Artwork for this exhibition is curated from the celebrated Janet Holmes a Court collection and includes work by William Dobell, Russell Drysdale, Mary McLean, Charles Conder Paddy Jaminji, Francis Lymburner and Thea Proctor. vassefelix.com.au

48 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

While waiting for spring to settle in, winter is the perfect time to visit the galleries and stretch your creative muscles.

JahRoc Galleries combines designer hardwood furniture and Australian fine art. The gallery is a Margaret River institution thanks to the talents of master craftsmen Gary Bennett and David Paris. jahroc.com.au

Melting Pot Glass Studio has just marked 30 years and glassblower Gerry Reilly isn’t slowing down. Gerry opens his studio by appointment and offers experiential hot glass workshops. meltingpotglass.com

Talented Margaret River aerial photographer Martine Perret has just joined ceramicist Dariya Gratte and jeweller brothers Nicholas and Francois Payet at the purpose-built Payet Gallery. Now four reasons to visit! payetgallery.com.au Dilkes Hoffman Studio Ceramics lies in a beautiful bush setting on Caves Road, showcasing high quality pottery, sculpture and molded ceramics. dilkes-hoffman.com.au

The gallery at Mr Barval Fine Wines supports artists from remote indigenous communities. Until July, enjoy artworks from Kalumburu in the north eastern Kimberley. All exhibitions are not-forprofit and all proceeds are returned to support both artists and community health and wellness initiatives. mrbarval.com

KARRIDALE & BORANUP The rammed earth and timer Boranup Gallery has been a fixture of the Boranup Forest for more than 30 years. It features handcrafted designer furniture crafted onsite by James Howieson along with fine art and gifts. boranupgallery.com Oriel Karridale Gallery exhibits the work of textile artist and painter Heather Lowe-Sims along with works by 14 other local artists and craftspeople. The small but characterfilled space is friendly, fresh and vibrant.

The Cocoon Gallery for Emerging Artists at Margaret River Library has a rotating exhibition program. amrlibraries.com

For a voyeuristic view into the region’s artists studios, plan on attending the Margaret River Region Open Studios from 11 to 26 September. mrropenstudios.com.au.

•

Vasse Felix half H

MARGARET RIVER

EST. 1967

MARGARET RIVER’S FOUNDING WINE ESTATE Everyone is welcome to visit the renowned Vasse Felix Estate, which offers a range of experiences to immerse oneself in Margaret River’s wine, food, culture and history. TASTING BAR • WINE LOUNGE • RESTAURANT • THE VAULT • ART GALLERY • TOURS Open Daily 10AM - 5PM Caves Road (Cnr Tom Cullity Drive), Cowaramup WA 6284 / margaretriver.com / 49 Tales & Trails Phone 9756 5000 Restaurant Reservations 9756 5050 Website vassefelix.com.au

3 CLASSIC ROAD TRIPS It’s time to get this show on the road. There’s nothing quite like the freedom of being behind the wheel and setting off into the unknown. Road trips have been romanticised in fictional stories for centuries and the sense of adventure that comes from taking the back roads is second to none. The Margaret River Region offers rugged coastlines, rolling vineyards, and at this time of year, green pastures prolific with olive groves and fruit trees, sheep, cows and alpacas. Pack your bags. WORDS | Sophie Mathewson

THE SCENIC DRIVE Where? Cape Naturaliste Road drive leaving from Dunsborough town and ending at the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse.

How long? The drive can be done in 30 minutes return, but allow for a couple of hours if you want to stop for food, a dip in the ocean and a tour of the lighthouse.

Details of the drive: There really isn’t anything more stunning than a drive along Cape Naturaliste Road and discovering the beaches and look-out points along the way. When the Margaret River region picked up Lonely Planet’s ‘Number One Destination in the Asia Pacific’ in 2019, it was nominee Fleur Bainger’s comments about Meelup Beach that really honed the badge of honour. Fleur wrote; “Take one look at

50 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Meelup Beach and you’ll wonder where it’s been all your life: the West Australian bush parts to reveal ocean the hue of a Bombay Sapphire bottle, which is typical of the coastline stretching from Margaret River to the state’s south.” Starting from the beginning of Cape Naturaliste Road, the first pit-stop worth a gander is old Dunsborough. It’s a well facilitated part of the bay with a jetty, child-friendly areas with grass and picnic tables, and hot showers if you’re feeling chilly after a dip. If you’re just driving through, carry on towards Meelup Regional Park. Castle Rock Road and Meelup Beach Road will take you to those respective beaches and both are must-see destinations. The white sand against the turquoise blue water is striking, and red ochre rocks quite architectural. Popular with yachties and fishing enthusiasts you’ll likely spot boats in the inlet or fisherman casting a line out from shore. Tip: It would be remiss

to leave your camera in the car and miss a photo opportunity here! The road-trip secret when leaving Meelup, is to take Eagle Bay – Meelup Road along the coast. This will go past Point Piquet and Eagle Bay, letting you take in the sweeping views. It will also conveniently pass Eagle Bay Brewery where you can pull in for a pint. Continuing the journey toward Bunker Bay, you’ll honestly wonder if beaches can get much better. A perfect beach for kids or long days under an umbrella with an esky, this is another one of those white sand, blue water coastal gems. Bunkers Beach House is also perfectly positioned for grabbing a coffee. The final leg takes you up to Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse. Positioned approximately 100 metres above sea level and offering a large viewing deck that is sensitive to its surrounds, the lighthouse really allows you to breathe in the beauty of the northern tip of the cape and reconnect with the land.

THE SURFING ROADIE Where? This drive will take you to all the classic surfing spots from Yallingup to Gracetown to Surfer’s Point in Margaret River.

How long? Depending on whether you’re just checking out the waves or surfing each one, this could be anything from a half to full day road trip.

DON’T IGNORE THE YAWNING SIGNS IMAGE Rachel Claires

Details of the drive: This is a classic roadie for the adventurer chasing a sense of nostalgia and freedom. Surfing culture is ingrained in the Australian way of life and whether you surf or not, there is an element of general abandon and good humour that comes with exploring the coast with a few mates. Autumn is one of the best seasons for offshore winds and glassy conditions, and the beginning of winter sees huge swell to the region. It’s no wonder the Margaret River Pro is placed in May.

Road Safety Commission HP (V)

IMAGE Matt Deakin

80% of Fatigue related crashes are on country roads. Take a break every 2 hours and swap drivers regularly. rsc.wa.gov.au Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 51

DRIVING THROUGH THE VINES

IMAGE Ellise Taylor

Where? A drive from north to south along Caves Road

How long? Anything from an hour and a half to half a day depending on if you’re stopping for food, wine or sightseeing.

Details of the drive:

Start in Yallingup – the heart of surf country. This is where the pioneer surfers carved out the first tracks down to the beaches, when the Caves House Hotel was their club house sanctuary, and when a good night’s sleep meant a hammock under the Melaleucas. Smiths Beach on a small day is better if you aren’t too experienced and Yallingup Mainbreak is the place to check if you don’t mind a paddle out over reef. This break, and nearby Rabbits, are local surfer Taj Burrow’s regular haunts so clearly not for the faint-hearted. Rabbits can be hollow, shallow and fast – so you’ll want to be wellpractised. At Yallingup Mainbreak, a swim or snorkel in the lagoon is always a great post-surf activity too. If you’re looking for a more accessible beach with some community vibes, carry on south to Gracetown. Scenes from the feature film ‘Drift’, about the beginnings of surf culture in Western Australia and starring Sam Worthington, were shot in Gracetown. You’ll realise why when you descend into town. With fibro beach shacks fanning their way around the bay, a quaint general store and an old petrol pump, it really does feel like you’ve stepped back in time. For a mellow A-frame, head to Huzza’s. Famed for its armies of groms and beginners, it is definitely a fun and easier break. North Point handles a heavy swell and is where

52 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

the Margaret River Pro is sometimes re-routed when the weather calls for it. If you aren’t up for the challenge there, it’s a great place to just sit and watch other surfers get barrelled. Tip: A pie from Gracie’s General Store is incredibly tasty spectator stodge. The road trip isn’t complete without finishing up at perhaps one of Australia’s most iconic surf destinations. Surfer’s Point in Margaret River is a beautiful paddle out through a key-hole lagoon. If there’s a sea breeze, you’ll find wind surfers and kite surfers enjoying the breaks too. Surfer’s Point has a beautiful vantage point with tiered steps and grass, and food vans will pull in from the late afternoon, as groups of people set up picnics on the lawn. If you’ve arrived here by sunset, you may have timed this road trip perfectly.

The Margaret River Region is equally famed for its natural assets and surf, as it is for farm to table food philosophies and world class wine. If you are a foodie on a road trip, Caves Road provides the perfect opportunity to taste, see, and explore. It’s a bit of a romantic drive if you have your favourite human in tow, and right now the autumn colours make it even more special. Tip: Jump onto Apple Podcasts and listen to our very own Wine Unearthed podcast for this stretch of road, and be sure to book a lunch at one of the many wineries en-route. Start your road trip in Yallingup, at the northern end of Caves Road. Caves Road stretches between two capes – Cape Naturaliste to the north and Cape Leeuwin to the south, running parallel to the coast but set inland. A drive along Caves Road is all about appreciating sweeping vineyards, happy livestock and locally grown produce. Jarrah, karri and marri trees get thicker and taller as you head south. You can see the geography

IMAGE Aquabumps

IMAGE Zac White

and the colours changing and open paddocks of gold and green are replaced by the dense browns and deep greens of the karri trees. Look closely and the drive will reveal the region’s sensitivity around sustainable land care. Vineyards are prolific, olive groves weave in and out of view, solar passive roofs and rammed earth structures can be counted along the way, and walls built by local stonemasons lead into winery entrances. An appropriate end point for this half-day

IMAGE Elise Taylor

drive would be the Boranup forest. You’ll know when you get there. Rounding the bend in Caves Road, just south of the Conto Road exit, are towering trees so impressive and powerful, you’ll be pulling over to the side like most other cars to stop, listen, breathe, and grab a photo or two. You definitely need a moment here to let the beauty of the journey sink in. It’s a magical drive and even if you’re just sitting behind the wheel it can be oh-sotherapeutic.

•

/ JARRAH, KARRI AND MARRI TREES GET THICKER AND TALLER AS YOU HEAD SOUTH /

Stay in our air conditioned 2 storey spa villas, chalets, beach cottages & cabins or enjoy the comfort of caravan, camping & motorhome sites with private ensuites. Pet friendly caravan & camping sites.

FREECALL · 1800 248 231 mandalayresort.com.au

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 53

Celebrating 5o Years of wine growing 1971 o 2o21

54 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Quality Integrity Sustainability ·

Visit our Biodynamic Wine Room at 4323 Caves Road, Wilyabrup. · Open for Tastings and Sales 7 days a week, 1o:oo am - 4.3o pm Open for Lunch Dining, Friday - Tuesday (bookings are recommended) Telephone: o8 9755 5277

www.cullenwines.com.au Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 55

SWIMMING

WILD WORDS | Sarina Kamini | IMAGES | Ross Wyness & Jinna Yang

Secrecy is a key component of the wild swimming tradition: knowing the locations of freshwater pools, river inlets and ocean lagoons that haven’t already been discovered en masse. The reason behind that quest for seclusion is simple - wild swimmers aren’t about a cool down on a hot day. We want something more. Solitude. Connection. The challenge of cold, or the thrill of rugged. Writing publicly of wild swimming locations, then, is both a contradiction and a challenge. To keep these places unknown...

56 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

WHAT ISN’T A conflict is the need to preserve our natural waterways. It’s within this understanding that the worlds of isolation and visitation meet: one of the most powerful ways to help conserve environments is to engage us all in relationship. When you love something, you care for it. The more of us that know of the beauty, the more of us there are who can make an effort to protect our landscapes. So love these locations. From Yallingup on the Cape’s north, down to Flinders Bay in the south. These are places of wildness, that nonetheless have the infrastructure to support us in joint numbers. So do the right thing. Behave well. Leave

nothing behind. And take extra care when entering unfamiliar waterways. Be responsible around your limitations. There is risk - king waves, strong ocean currents, submerged logs in river ways and heightened bacteria in fresh water bodies during the heat of summer form part of the picture. But ultimately if there wasn’t this, it wouldn’t be wild.

The Margaret River Mouth There is a spectacular untamed beauty to the meeting of these two waterways the mouth of the Margaret River and the dumping churn of the Indian Ocean at River Mouth beach. At different points of

upstream in the forest. Osprey hunt its banks. At dusk kangaroos can sometimes be seen coming down from the sand dunes to snack on the reeds. Take note if no swimming signs appear in summer: there are times when water testing reads bacterial levels as too high for safe water contact. This is a natural phenomenon that occurs when the river shallows

the year the river will carve its silt and silt bottomed path to connect with the ocean itself. These times of year - especially in winter - can result in wild and dangerous rushes that make this no place to swim. But for much of the year the river system itself here is tranquil. The river water temperature is warmer than further

The Barrett Street bridge is a beautiful spot for a swim or a walk.

and water temperatures rise. Bacteria subsides when autumn water flows create depth and movement in this part of the river system once again. Practicalities: Parking, rubbish bins and public toilets on site.

Cane Brake Pool Driving to Cane Brake Pool is like a treasure hunt - looking for fresh water in the midst of rutted gravel roads and dense Aussie bush. It takes around 30 minutes to reach the pool from the Margaret River township, and perhaps it’s that little bit of further distance that keeps it quiet: except for when the camping ground is occupied in summer, most of the time you can drive out here and rest assured it’ll just be you and the jarrah trees that ring the fresh water arena. There are wooden AT PULLMAN BUNKER BAY RESORT AT PULLMAN BUNKER BAY RESORT steps down to the water but the rest is wild - deep green, deep cold and deeply beautiful. Cane Brake Pool forms part of SOAK UP THE the upper Margaret River, whose origins UP THE MARGARET RIVER SOAK REGION'S stems from the wetlands just a little MARGARET BEST OCEAN VIEW RIVER REGION'S further north of this location. Practicalities: Parking, camp ground BEST OCEAN VIEW and public toilets on site.

In the restaurant or bar, dining at Pullman the Moon Restaurant is an experienceOther full ofSide localofflavour. Blackwood River & Bar, dining at Pullman is an Entrance points to the Blackwood River experience full of local flavour. Breakfast, lunch & dinner from Bridgetown, Nannup and Augusta The Social Hour, daily from 3-5pm Spring whale watching Breakfast, lunch & dinner Weddings &The private Socialevents Hour, daily from 3-5pm Weddings & private events

42 Bunker Bay Road (off Cape Naturaliste Road) NATURALISTE 6281Bay Road (off Cape Naturaliste Road) 42WA Bunker

NATURALISTE WA 6281

OUR WORLD IS OUR WORLD IS YOUR PLAYGROUND YOUR PLAYGROUND

Tales & Trails on / margaretriver.com / 57 Available the app Accor Live Limitless

/ THE WATER HERE IS SILKEN, ITS WEIGHT CHANGING WITH THE SEASONS /

means that the largest river in the South West offers plenty of spots for an isolated swim experience. The river’s long reach also means the surrounding environment shifts from towering trees around Nannup and Bridgetown, to the lower-level coastal treescape of Augusta, as the Blackwood widens and prepares to open to the Southern Ocean. For me, finding a riverbank spot in the town of Augusta offers a really quiet swimming experience of a seaside town known for its low-key, unpolished beauty. Practicalities: Parking, easy access to the Augusta township and public facilities.

Barrett Street Weir 58 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

One of the town’s open secrets, this weir a short walk on trail from Rotary Park, or accessed via a bit of a hidden car track on TK avenue. Originally established to secure water supply for the Margaret River township, this weir and its companion - Rendall Weir a little further up the river system - have become axis points for wild swimming through the year. In the summer, it’s families and kids jumping off the bridge when the river is full, or swimming out to explore the ghost gums whose dead white trunks jut out of the river as haunting landmarks. Summer means warmer water temperatures than the ocean. In winter, it’s impossible to hear over the rush of the Barrett Weir waterfall. At dawn from May through to

October, the conjunction of cold air and colder water lays a mist of fog across the river’s surface. When the rising sun peaks over the Marri trees and the Baudins Black Cockatoos flock, a wild swim becomes a spiritual experience. Certainly the bracing cold requires enormous strength of will to submerge and stay swimming. Practicalities: Parking, rubbish bins, public toilets at nearby Rotary Park.

Barrabup Pool Between Margaret River township and Nannup, Barrabup Pool is one of a collection of fresh water swimming holes dotted between these two localities off Mowen Road. Follow the signs, park the

Flinders Bay Tucked in around the corner from Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, Flinders Bay is another of those secluded curves of ocean that offers the rarity of shelter from exposure with views to the deep. The landmarks of jetty and point make for a natural lap lane for those with an eye to ocean swimming. Just don’t come here with too much focus on speed and execution - stingrays make the ocean bed their home, whales wander past in season and dolphin experiences are relatively common. There is ample opportunity to transform a wild swim into a wild natural encounter. The water temperature here is quite cold no matter the season. On a calm day in winter it truly is magic. Practicalities: Parking, public toilets and a children’s playground.

WINNER

BEST CASUAL DINING THE WEST AUSTRALIAN GOOD FOOD GUIDE 2019

Yallingup Lagoon

Flinders Bay is a natural pool and great for families.

car and walk in along the narrow bush track within St Johns Brook Conservation Park to find this natural pool whose waters are as emerald as the surrounding bushland. A jetty allows for feet dangling, but its immersion that brings the biggest rewards - the water here is silken, its weight changing with the seasons: summer means lighter movement with the settling of silt; winter offers the luxury of swimming through cold swathes of soft current. Practicalities: Parking, camping, and basic drop toilets.

A full moon swim in the lagoon at Yallingup is an extraordinary experience. Reef conditions have created a sequestered circle of quiet water just on the inside of one of this town’s most hunted surf breaks. That placement of pounding surf just beyond reach of a mirrored aquamarine natural pool is a juxtaposition that cries out for digital visual record. But honestly you’d be better off putting down the camera and immersing yourself in the experience. Snorkel. Float. Swim. You can safely entertain children here. You can be silent and solo. Summer is hectic, but as the days cool and shorten there is ample opportunity to have this slice of water-borne heaven to yourself. Ocean temperatures on the end of the cape are a little warmer than further south, but even so the winter months are beautifully brisk. And that saltwater therapy is priceless. Practicalities: Parking, easy access and facilities in the nearby Yallingup township.

•

OPEN SEVEN DAYS – VISIT BUNKERSBEACHHOUSE.COM.AU FOR TIMES AND MENU OFFERINGS.

Tales

Book now at

&BUNKERSBEACHHOUSE.COM.AU Trails / margaretriver.com| 08/ 9756 59 8284 FARM BREAK LANE, BUNKER BAY, WA 6281

MIDDLE EARTH AND OTHER BIKING TRAILS WORDS | Tom De Souza | IMAGES | Ross Wyness

One of the most challenging mountain bike tracks to emerge in Margaret River in recent years is the Middle Earth trail.

You’ll find Middle Earth on Gale Road at Metricup, between Busselton and Cowaramup, conveniently close to the Beer Farm. The track is a rolling, single 24km trail, and is enjoyed by local riders like Christian Bishop, who says the trail is one of the most challenging around. “Middle Earth: it’s a small pocket of land. It’s probably on a couple of kilometres square on each side, but it’s a bit of a maze all the way through. Trail builder, Rod has done well – he’s used every little bit of it to create as much trail as he could,” he says. “He’s done well with a lot of the obstacles. There are lot of log rolls and double jumps. It’s not a particularly hilly area, so you’re relying on pedal power, and a getting bit of a kick getting through some of the obstacles and the rock gardens without putting your feet down. It’s definitely a technical cross-country style course.” “I would say certainly intermediate mountain bike riders would love it. One lap and you’re pretty cooked, unless your especially fit.” The Middle Earth trail has been around for ten years, though it has become popular since it was used as the final stage for the Cape to Cape race two years ago. It was built by local riders Rod Lakelin and Pete Battye. Rod says he originally built the course as a means of connecting with his teenage son, and to provide a healthy distraction for a close friend going through a divorce. “The mate who I was building it with was going through a hard time with a relationship separation, it was a good way for him to put his efforts into something

60 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

positive,” says Rod. “Riding has always been a way of connecting with people. It’s a great equaliser. It’s a great way of meeting people and socialising. And it’s a way of getting out of your own head. Rod and Pete began building most of the trail by hand, and say it was important to them to work with nature rather than against it. “We started by hand, moving rocks, shovelling dirt. Then we moved to earth moving machines. We go in and just tidy things up. A tree comes down and we use that to create a natural obstacle,” he says. While Rod did not receive official approval to build the track on crown land, he says the City of Busselton are supportive of his and other volunteer’s efforts to build and maintain the course, and they are working together to officially sanction the course. “They are really supportive of it. We are trying to formalise it. They can see the economic benefits of it, and the community benefits of it,” he says. For the adventurer seeking a cruisier challenge, there are abundant trails in Margaret River, says Christian. Each caters to different levels of experience and has its own unique feel. “You’ve got a nice mix of more the classic mountain bike trails.” he says.

SOUTH WEST LUXURY TRANSPORT WHAT WE OFFER

Third horizontal

PREMIUM PRIVATE WINE TOURS

RESTAURANT TRANSFERS

WEDDING + EVENT TRANSFERS

Premium Luxury Transport that ensures you travel in style and arrive safely.

Andrew 0499 319 914

www.southwestluxurytransport.com.au

andrew@southwestluxurytransport.com.au Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 61

southwestluxurytransport

South West Luxury Transport

IMAGE Russell Ord

IMAGE Tim Campbell

Biking tracks circle the Margaret River town. You just have to get out there and find them.

“We have fewer trails than other worldclass destinations like New Zealand and Tassie, but we have a very nice spread that caters to all different kinds of riders.” One of the most popular family routes, he says, is the ride from Margaret River down to Prevelly. “Margaret River is regarded as a beach town, but it’s actually a little way to the beach. One of the more popular things to do is to hire a bike – even an electric bike and ride your way down to the beach. That ride has always been a good one,” he says. “It’s paved all the way. It’s a little bit undulating, so you do have to put a bit of effort in, but you get that reward when you come over the hill. You see the beach there, and the ocean lights up as you come past Wallcliffe Road. “You jump over the road to that lookout point and look out over the river. You have a choice of beautiful beaches: the

62 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Rivermouth, Mainbreak, or down to Gnarabup for a swim.” A rider of almost 30 years, another of Christian’s favourite Margaret River tracks is the Creek Trails. “The Creek Trails is on the south side of Carters Road,” he says. “They are a lot more ‘organic’, is the best way to put it. A bit more rough-and-ready

and not so manicured as some of the other tracks.” “I guess, if you compare it to surfing it’s like the open ocean compared to a wave pool. It’s wild, it’s unpredictable, and that’s part of the attraction. It’s a different kind of challenge.” On the north side of Carters Road is a different, more cultivated kind of riding experience, says Christian. “On that side you’ve got all the new trails, which are a lot more professionally built. They are well maintained with big earthmoving equipment. There is a lot more planning that goes into them, they are very well signposted,” he says. “I’ve got to know a few of the trail builders over the years, and it’s as much a science as it is an art. They work out everything from what angles different berms need to be at to what angles different rollers need to be at to maintain speed and for you to milk the most out of the small hills we have here.” “You’re really getting a very curated experience, which can be a heap of fun too. There really is something for everyone.”

•

Fun, thrills, adventure & refreshing alcoholic beverages await you at our Breweries!

Brewpub 4259 Caves Rd, Wilyabrup. – Taproom 44 Commerce Road, Vasse. Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 63

IMAGE Russell Ord

ADVENTURES FOR PEOPLE WHO TRAVEL TO EAT

Food is what brings people together and planning your gastronomic encounters while travelling the Margaret River Region is both a social and a culinary adventure. There a strong relationship between the region’s chefs, winemakers, restauranteurs and brewers, and taking the time to meet the people and taste the local flavours can be a one-of-akind experience. Get around this curated top-ten intel. WORDS | Dianne Bortoletto

Marron This freshwater crayfish is endemic to the south west and has delicate sweet meat. The best way to cook marron is simply boiled and eaten straight from the shell with a squeeze of lemon or slice the marron in half and pan fry with butter and a little garlic. You can buy marron at seafood mongers 34 Degrees Blue and often at the Margaret River Farmers’ Market and at local butchers. If you’d rather not cook yourself, you can find marron on restaurant menus across the region.

64 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

TIP: Cape Lodge head chef Tony Howell would make an excellent intro to this delectable crustacean.

Walk, Talk, Taste The small group walking tour, Walk Talk Taste, offers curated excursions of Margaret River’s people, produce and place. There are two four-hour tours, brunch or dinner, where you’ll have exclusive access, meet the makers and taste some of the region’s very best culinary offerings. Highlights include

native botanical infused gin, sake paired with canapes, and a cocktail masterclass, all the while skipping between venues on a hidden bush path. Think of it as a guided gourmet passport to the region’s premium food, coffee and wine.

Fishing with Koomal Dreaming Djiljit Coastal Fishing Experience with Josh Whiteland, a Wadandi Cultural Custodian, includes a coastal walk in Meelup Regional Park with chance spotting of dolphins, whales and schools of fish. As Josh explains the six Aboriginal seasons and surrounding edible plants, he turns the coastal scrub into nature’s supermarket while foraging for a salad of native herbs. Josh provides all the gear including a keen eye to catch fish. He cups his hands around his eyes and looks for fish, incredibly able to detect their movement in the ocean. He’ll clean

GOANNA BUSH CAFE

One of the best adventures is a fishing tour with Koomal Dreaming.

IMAGE Elements Margaret River

IMAGE Rachel Claires

COFFEE . BREAKFAST . LUNCH

IMAGE Rachel Claires

Aravina. Think of the backdrop options on ‘portrait mode’: picture-perfect winery views of rolling vine-lined hills, or violet agapanthus edging a lush lawn, or views across a lake with vines beyond, or perhaps tall eucalypt trees, or a pretty Hampton’s style table setting on a balcony complete with white balustrades. The food is worthy of the photos too, with chef Ben Day creating delicious dishes using seasonal ingredients, many from their own kitchen garden, which you can also wander around while snapping away.

Wine tasting and food experience your catch and barbeque it there and then. You’ll leave feeling richer and more connected to region than before.

Aravina For Instagram worthy dishes that look as good as they taste, it’s hard to go past

What’s better than a leisurely lunch overlooking the vines and native bushland? Clairault Streicker is a bit of a hidden gem with stunning landscapes, a seasonal menu celebrating local produce and an extensive wine list of classic Margaret River varieties. In winter, tuck up

278 HAYES ROAD DUNSBOROUGH WWW.GOANNACAFE.COM.AU BOOKINGS@GOANNACAFE.COM.AU 08 9759 1477

EAT LOCAL . DRINK LOCAL . BUY LOCAL

IMAGE Rachel Claires

Chef Tony Howell is a master with marron.

IMAGE Elements Margaret River

Other Notable Foodie Adventures:  Yallingup

Woodfired Bread & Margaret River Woodfired Bread

 Miki’s

Kitchen for Japanese degustation

 Margaret

River Chocolate Company for little kids, big kids and adult-kids!

 Winery

lunches at Leeuwin Estate, Voyager Estate, Vasse Felix, and Wills Domain

with a glass of their Streicker Bridgeland Block Syrah ($45) or Clairault Margaret River Cabernet Merlot ($22), a shared cheeseboard and good company by the stone fireplace or if the sun is calling, take one of the provided picnic blankets onto the lawn and admire the gardens. The surrounds make the food experience that extra bit special.

66 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Swings and Roundabouts in Margaret River township has undergone a recent renovation. It’s convenient location on the main street offers epic grazing boards to share with carafes or bottles of their own wine as well as authentic Italian woodfired pizzas. The shady vine covered veranda is lovely in warmer weather and the open fire makes it a cosy option on cooler days.

IMAGE Rachel Claires

Best Burgers

Truffle

Spoilt for choice, there’s loads of great burgers to get your hands around in the region. Normal Van is a cult food truck favourite who know how a good burger is made. Their fries are triple fried – the way fries should be. The Farmhouse Beef Burger at the Brewhouse in Margaret River with cheese, bacon, salad, mustard and pickles is so good that you won’t even care that its dripping down your chin. Caves House Hotel will serve up a satisfying beef burger after a surf, or if you’ve surfed Margie’s Main Break, The Common in Gnarabup does a juicy Common Pounder.

The best thing about winter is definitely truffles. Australia’s most prolific truffle growing region, Manjimup, is just 90 minutes from Margaret River and great for a winter day trip. Book in for a truffle-laden lunch at Truffle and Wine Co, or pick up some truffle infused cheese, salt, honey and more at Southern Roasting Co. You’ll find the black gold at major regional events like Cabin Fever Festival and Truffle Kerfuffle.

IMAGE Lucy Laucht

the Home of Evans & Tate

Learn to Cook Relive your Margaret River food adventure by learning how to cook from some of the region’s best. The cooking masterclasses at Cape Lodge are educational and fun, following themes such as fish, truffles or French Bistro. After learning plenty of cheffy secrets, join your classmates for a long lunch in the acclaimed restaurant. For those wanting to perfect sourdough, the masters at One Table Farm hold a number of detailed hands-on classes that come with a ‘mother’ starter to take home. So special is the regenerative farm-based cooking school that YouTube sent a crew to film a minidocumentary at the farm, which has been viewed over three million times.

EXPERIENCE THESE AWARD WINNING RESERVE WINES AT OUR CELLAR DOOR .

Organic Fine Dining Cullen is synonymous with Margaret River and the winery restaurant dishes are made with organic or biodynamic ingredients, following the same principals as the winery itself. The spiral-designed kitchen garden grows much of the restaurant’s produce and guests are welcome to wander through.

•

IMAGE Russell Ord

ENJOY A GUIDED CHEESE AND WINE

THE BEST THING

PAIRING AT OUR CELLAR DOOR ,

ABOUT WINTER

FEATURING FOUR PREMIUM WINES

IS DEFINITELY

MATCHED WITH CHEESE FROM

TRUFFLES /

YALLINGUP CHEESE COMPANY.

cnr metricup & caves road, wilyabrup wa 6280

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 67 EVANSANDTATE.WINE

Surfing: it’s not just a sport - it’s a lifestyle. Many of those who make their way to this coastline are constantly chasing the inevitable high that comes from being immersed in the ocean while feeling ‘the glide’. WORDS | Jinna Yang

HOW TO:

EXPERIENCE THE

MARGARET RIVER REGION’S SURF SCENE (WITHOUT GETTING WET)

68 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

THE MARGARET RIVER REGION is home to world-class waves. And if you surf, you get to feel the power pulsing throughout the water, knowing that you’re only a small dot in a huge ocean. So it only makes sense to join in on the fun, even if you don’t want to get wet. Here are a few ways to experience the Margaret River Region’s surf scene, even if you’re not a surfer:

1. Watch the world class surfers compete at the Margaret River Pro As a WSL Championship Tour event, the Margaret River Pro welcomes surfing’s global elite to compete here. Yes, you could watch pros Kelly Slater, John John Florence, Stephanie Gilmore or Sally Fitzgibbons make surfing Main Break look easy (which it certainly is not). Park it in Prevelly, with a cold brew or warm tea, and spend the morning watching the pros go head to head at Surfer’s Point from May 2nd - 12th.

2. Soak in some surf culture at the WA Surf Gallery. Take a break from the sun at the first ever official Western Australian surfing museum — the WA Surf Gallery at Aravina Estate. Founded to celebrate surfing history throughout Western Australia, the WA Surf Gallery houses the

official collection of surfing memorabilia – over 160 items. The gallery is located just minutes from the world famous breaks of Yallingup, Margaret River and Gracetown. You can see their collection of rare and never-before-seen memorabilia, including surfboards from the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s, as well as images from legend WA surfers in the days before being launched onto the world stage. The gallery is open to the public every day from 10am – 5pm with free entry.

3. Visit and support your local shaper. The masterminds behind the handcrafted wave-riding machines are the surfboard shapers — local artisans who are constantly innovating the designs of surfboards specifically tailored to the waves around the area. There’s history here, too. Tom Hoye, one of the first international surfers to relocate to the Margaret River Region from California, also a living surfing legend, started Precision Equip Surfboards over fifty years ago. After teaching himself to shape surfboards, he worked with the late Jack O’Neill (inventor of the wetsuit) in the 1960s. He’s credited with introducing twin fin surfboards to Australia in 1970. He still shapes every board by hand using techniques learned

IMAGE Tim Campbell

IMAGE Zac White

over a lifetime, at his warehouse in Margaret River’s industrial area. Yahoo Surfboards in Dunsborough is another noteable mention. They’ll build you a custom board exactly how you want it. Happy days!

4. Sign up for an eco-friendly surfboard shaping workshop. You can learn how to build your very own surfboard using sustainable materials at Boogaloo Surf & Yoga, an eco-friendly campsite located in Augusta. The workshop starts with understanding the basics of surfboard design and guides you through the use of state-of-the-art shaping software. They believe that building and surfing a board you have built yourself is one of the most ultimate experiences a surfer can have, all with a cleaner conscience, knowing that you did it with less impact on the environment. You can build hollow wooden boards at the workshop, or shape a more highperformance board with recycled EPS core and Paulownia skins. Their 3-day shaping course starts at $790.

5. Gear up at your local surf shop. There are plenty of beach-friendly goodies to find at the local surf shops around the region. Hillzeez is a familyowned surf shop offering a range of surf and skate products for over 30 years. They stock men’s and women’s apparel and shoes, surfboards, wetsuits and bodyboards, skateboards and all of the

necessary accessories. If you don’t surf or skate, don’t feel shy. Pop in to find your new favorite beach hat, towel or sunscreen. With locations from Busselton, Dunsborough down to Margaret River, Hillzeez is accessible to everyone.

6. Catch the sunset surf at the Sea Garden Cafe. The Sea Garden Cafe is located in the heart of surfing paradise. It’s just a two-minute walk from Surfer’s Point in Prevelly. Walk down the winding road and onto the driveway to witness Australia’s longest surfboard fence, showcasing boards of all colours, shapes and personalities. Head up to the cafe and feed your growling belly with one of their delicious dishes. Share a cold cocktail with a friend on the terrace while enjoying the view of the sun setting over the Indian Ocean.

Find the perfect home for every holiday Third V Unsold

Private Properties’ local booking

experts are passionate about Western Australia’s South-West and are blessed to live and work in this stunning corner of the world. Discerning travellers have entrusted us with their holiday home accommodation for over 26 years.

7. Relax, recharge and warm up in front of the waves. Thanks to Kaarna Sauna, you can run out of the ocean and step straight into a traditional Finnish wood-fired sauna parked in front of the waves. Once fully heated, the temperature ranges from 6595 degrees and can be adjusted. Apart from complete relaxation, the sauna provides your body with increased circulation, flushed toxins and stress relief — all with a killer view of the ocean in front of you.

•

www.privateproperties.com.au

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 69

BUSSELTON When you visit Busselton, you join a long history of holiday-makers who’ve imparted a unique character on this vibrant beach town. So many families have made memories here, and people return throughout their lives to recreate them for the next generation. While the town itself has grown, what’s important here remains true: holidays are rituals, and they are essential to our lives. Ritual in Busselton centres around the 1.8 kilometre Busselton Jetty, nostalgic in its original timber build. Morning strolls along it take you out to sea, from where you look back in awe and appreciation. Revellers fish, crab, boat and swim in the waters that surround it, and share in what they reap. These are the timeless activities that holidays in Busselton are made of. There’s a sense that these things are preserved here, even as new buildings and precincts form and the event calendar proliferates, full of artistic and cultural glory. Busselton gives so much, and its joys are passed from parent to child, local to visitor, person to person. And so the timeless value of holidaying lives on. Busselton. Pass it on.

70 / Tales & Trails

BUSSELTON HIGHLIGHTS Busselton’s city precinct and foreshore offers the perfect fusion of coastal and city life. Spend the morning perusing quality shops, cafes and pubs along Queen Street, then, find perfect views of the famous jetty and of breaching whales along the foreshore where playgrounds, skateparks, and eateries abound.

BUSSELTON JETTY

Busselton Jetty: Built in 1865, the Busselton Jetty has always been the centre of activity in this vibrant beach town. Along its 1.8 kilometre timber piling and in the waters beneath, locals and holiday-makers alike walk, fish, swim and snorkel.

tours y Train n Jett Jetty selto n s u B o o se itche Dive The G Bar & K h Beac ORE

u Resta

Crafty Pints: Busselton is the unoffcial home of craft beer in the south west, with urban, seaside and bush-block breweries - all of which welcome the whole family offering up a taste of the region’s best.

odja nj Bo Mere garden) h s u (b ARTGEO COMPLEX

ycles uck C o Fat D Espress &

Park Skate

g Co

Artge

C INE T M AaRde Hotel

Espla

llery

o Ga

tre Thea Weld

N ST 1.4 km

ORE S

win r Bre

QUEE 20 min

ArtGeo Cultural Complex: This is where Busselton’s art and heritage meet; experience historical tours, witness working artists’ studios, and wander galleries and exhibitions.

Fish or Eat Fish: Holidays in Busselton impart new skills, hobbies and memories, generation on generation. Fishing, crabbing and boating are just some of the unique experiences that holidays are made of here; and if you don’t catch anything, there’s always the quintessential fish and chips on the foreshore!

e Shelt

SIGNAL PARK

Free Events: The event capital of Western Australia, Busselton has a calendar packed full of arts, cultural and sporting events, from CinefestOZ and South West Craft Beer Fest to the iconic Busselton Jetty Swim.

Geographe Bay: The seclusion and safety of Geographe Bay defines holidays in Busselton: free and plain enjoyment of life’s simple pleasures. From exploring rock pools and sand-castle-making, to long walks with the dog and fishing escapades, Geographe Bay is home.

nd B

rou Playg

ox Equin ar nd B rant a

F LTON U S SE

n Breto Bistro e assag M ody Zen B outh wn S ez Do Hillze hop ry S Galle Surf ollett Phil H ellers n Jew Fusio

al Centr e tr elton Buss ping Cen p Sho

ORANA CINEMA

B US S

ELL

UN TO D

HW Y

SBO

ROU

Bo elton Buss

oks

Town Map

Visitors Centre

Gallery

Restaurant

Supermarket

Café

Pedestrian/cycle path

Bar

Dining/shopping precinct

Gift Shop

Green Space

Tales & Trails / 71

BUSSELTON’S

CRAFT BEER

BOOM

Watch the sunset over the Busselton jetty from Shelter Brewing Co.

The fact that the Margaret River Region is wine country is not exactly news, but what might come as a surprise to many, is that the region’s largest city – Busselton, loves its crafty pints. New large-scale breweries, fledgling operations, and up-and-comer brewers are defining Busselton as the place with the best (and most audacious) beers in the state. WORDS | Dianne Bortoletto

72 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

SHELTER BREWING CO One of the region’s newest breweries that has quickly garnered a loyal following, Shelter Brewing Co takes centre stage on the Busselton Foreshore. It’s big, with a capacity for 600, and designed to maximise the iconic views of Busselton Jetty and Geographe Bay. The impressive two-level structure features an open brewery, function rooms, lounge area, viewing gallery, café and a kids playground complete with a custom built wooden retro caravan. The venue is open all day, starting with coffee and cinnamon scrolls at 7am, then setting up the brewery at 10am. The beer doesn’t come any fresher, straight from the tank to the tap with the core range of beers being

pale ales, lagers, and a summer sour. Shelter is born and brewed in Busselton, just like it says on the tin.

ROCKY RIDGE From ‘ground to glass’ Rocky Ridge is one of a few breweries that also grows its own hops on their local farm. The cellar door isn’t on the farm but situated in a renovated 1930s house in the heart of Busselton with 25 taps serving six core beers and 16 or more seasonal brews. Margaret River Burger Co food truck is parked up each day to feed the hungry.

EAGLE BAY BREWERY A packed car park is always a good sign and walking in, it’s easy to see why. Eagle

Bay Brewing feels elegant. A modern venue that enjoys sweeping views over the lawn, and onto the Indian Ocean. The microbrewery is popular with families offering space outside for kids including a playground with a sand pit, long tables, high ceilings and big bi-fold doors that bring the outside in. Open daily from 11am, Eagle Bay Brewing Co pours six handcrafted beers that are naturally brewed: Kolsch, Pale Ale, Lager, India Pale Lager, Cacao Stout and Amber Ale mid strength. The food menu is based around seasonal local produce designed for sharing.

WILD HOP BREWING COMPANY With pretty views over a dam, a valley and onto vineyards beyond, the expansive alfresco area dotted with umbrellas and tables parked under shady cottonwood trees make this place a favourite. The family run Wild Hop Brewing Company does things a little differently. Inside the cellar door, there’s ten taps of batchbrewed beer that are continuously changing, the only constant being the Short Shorts Czech Pilsner. When it comes to food, don’t leave without trying a beer battered pickle. It blew my mind it was lip-smackingly good in a crisp, sweet and salty way.

BEERFARM Beerfarm is exactly what the name implies, an old 80-acre dairy farm with beer. And on the farm are Black Angus cows that feed on grass as well as grains from the by-product of the brewing process, all to minimising waste. Inside the big welcoming barn there’s a fire, high and low tables and at the bar, a core range of beers along with seasonal and speciality brews. The menu changes regularly depending on what’s available from neighbouring farms and local suppliers, with a focus on smoked dishes that are cooked over a combo of fire, charcoal and smoke.

MONKEY BAR VASSE Vasse has been rapidly evolving before

our eyes with new bars, creative outlets and retail popping up. Cheeky Monkey brewery have joined the hotspot, and have opened up their production facility in Vasse, wacked in a bar, added some seating, a pool table for fun along with a menu serving pizzas to create Monkey Bar Vasse. Good news, it saves a trip down Caves Road to their main cellar door to grab their freshly brewed beer, which is incidentally loved by families for its spacious setting and huge playground.

BLACK BREWING CO The colossal Black Brewing Co impresses before you even set foot inside. The grand indoor area is flooded with light from large windows, a sky-high wood-panelled ceiling, traditional stonework housing a fireplace that also separates the tasting area and retail space from Black Brewing Co, and several large outdoor areas, plus a deck that overlooks a lake complete with a fountain. Tasting paddles are available, along with Dune Distillery spirit tastings and Ground to Cloud wine tastings. The pared-back menu caters for a range of tastes with dishes such as Korean bang bang chicken wings, miso rosemary roasted pumpkin, maple glazed beef along with a range of woodfired pizzas.

BEST VALUE PRODUCER Ray Jordan Wine Guide 2021

CABERNET OF THE YEAR

Reserve Cabernet, 98 points – Ray Jordan 2021 Reserve Cabernet, 99 points – Halliday 2020 & 2018

BEST OF THE BEST Reserve Cabernet – Ray Jordan 2021 Estate Rosé – Ray Jordan 2021

ARAVINA TAPHOUSE — 8 WAVES BREWING CO No longer just making wine, Aravina Estate has launched a new craft beer label, 8 Waves Brewing Co, pouring beers from five rotating taps in the new Taphouse, situated underneath the restaurant. Aptly named after eight famous surf breaks in the region, the 8 Waves Brewing Co ties in nicely to the established WA Surf Gallery that was formed in collaboration with Surfing WA some years ago. Inside, the Taphouse wall is donned with a colourful mural from the distinctive local artist Aidan Lee Smith. The Taphouse offers a tasting paddle, tap cider, cocktails and a casual dining menu featuring seafood baskets, duck spring rolls and a range of stonebaked pizzas.

•

CELLAR DOOR OPEN 7 DAYS 889 COMMONAGE ROAD, YALLINGUP WA 6282

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 73 DEEPWOODS.WINE

DUNSBOROUGH 74 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Dunsborough and Yallingup are two separate towns, but together they form a place that epitomises effortless coastal living. There’s something unique about the way we relate to nature here: there’s no separation between it and us. Morning swims and surfs in crystalclear, turquoise water, for which gratitude never runs out, set the day’s pace. Lunch – whether on-the-go or drawn out over a long table with friends – is made from ingredients that speak and taste of place, the whole affair framed by native bushland and rolling vineyards. Nature is a backdrop to life here, a constant reminder of one’s privilege – to be here is to be lucky, and to feel it deeply, intimately, in your bones. What might feel extravagant elsewhere – sailing down a pristine coastline, or cocktail hour on a beachfront balcony – feels fitting here, grounded in the immense natural beauty of your surrounds. Here, nature calls to be indulged in, wondered at. It is the conduit through which you get closer to the beauty of life itself. Dunsborough. Indulge in grounded beauty.

TU NA

LIS

South West Boats & Bikes

CENTENNIAL PARK

GE OG

SEYMOUR PARK

RA PH

c Oc

P LU P DA M IN RA QU OAT B

Y BA

LIONS PARK

ge a illa Sp yV & Ba sort Re

e lze Hil

Y RD DUNN BA

10 min 0.6 km ste ali s tur ter Na Char

er tch y Fle aller G

Nina’s Jewellery

y ’s

oo ShoeBeD

SquidLips Fish & Chips

LIS

n tia ris Ch

e Peko P

Yarri

gh rou ry bo ke ns Ba Du

TU NA HayDay B&B

oo Yah rds a f bo

E TC

r Su

na Man Blue Bistro

DUNSBOROUGH BEACH

TE LIS RA

d he e S gh Bik orou b ns Du

RA TU TO N A U S E O PE CA H TH LIG

ough Dunsbor lars Cel

CAVES RD

TO G A R E R MA ER RIV

DUNSBOROUGH HIGHLIGHTS Dunsborough town centre is a coastal community located within walking distance from Geographe Bay but with a distinctly different vibe offered at the shopping district than at the casual beachfront. The town is bursting with bakeries, bars and fashion boutiques while the beach is perfect for a bike ride and a splash in the turquoise waters. Yallingup: Yallingup is surrounded by the ruggedly beautiful LeeuwinNaturaliste National Park. Here the calm waters of Geographe Bay give way to a dramatic coastline, famous for its surf breaks. So good are the waves here, pro surfer Taj Burrow calls it home. Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse: A casual 59 steps to the top of this working lighthouse rewards visitors with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean and Meelup Regional Park. Ngilgi Cave: An ancient and sacred place, Ngilgi Cave is the site of an Aboriginal creation story that’s shared with visitors by Traditional Owner Josh Whiteland (Koomal Dreaming). The resonating silence and intricacy inside the cave leaves its mark on all who bear witness.

Picturesque Drinking & Dining: Elevated casual is Dunsborough’s definition of meal time – restaurants, wineries and breweries offer a taste of the region’s best, with nature’s beauty the backdrop. Intimate Moments: Intimacy takes on new meaning here – whether you’re travelling solo or as a couple, family or friends, there’s a sense of seclusion and natural indulgence in Dunsborough that draws you closer to what’s important.

Town Map Visitors Centre Restaurant Café Bar Gift Shop Gallery Accommodation Supermarket Pedestrian/cycle path Dining/shopping precinct Green Space

Boutique Shopping: From handmade wares and art to clothing and jewellery, shopping here isn’t an exercise in excess but a way of getting into the rhythm of Dunsborough’s alluring lifestyle.

Tales & Trails / 75

WINTER WALKS IN YALLINGUP AND DUNSBOROUGH WORDS | Janine Pittaway

76 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

EXPERIENCE A NATURAL HIGH HIKING IN YALLINGUP AND DUNSBOROUGH

The Japanese have a word for time spent in the forest for de-stressing and moodboosting. Shinrin-Yoku literally means forest-bathing. Scientific field experiments across Japan have proven that spending a day in the forest lowers concentrations of cortisol, lowers pulse rates and blood pressure. We’re so fortunate to have swathes of natural beauty on our doorstep – from the coast to the forest, and the cooler months provide the perfect opportunity to walk in nature and experience the mental and physical benefits. If you’re staying around Yallingup or Dunsborough we’ve listed a few of our favourite walks, mixing it up between coast, forest and bush.

Dunsborough beachfront to Castle Rock and Meelup Beach Start from the beachfront, enjoying the protected shallows as you head

west to the edge of Meelup Regional Park. From here it’s an easy 3.7km walk one-way along a well-maintained trail through peppy trees, red claw flowers (Calothanmus graniticus) and WA Christmas tree groves. There are great ocean lookouts and plenty of birdlife along the way and you’ll be rewarded with the beauty of Curtis Bay, Castle Rock and Meelup Beach. Enjoy a swim, coffee or ice cream as a reward. For a taster, do Castle Rock to Meelup. It’s one of the most picturesque sections, looking out over limestone outcrops onto turquoise ocean.

Meelup Brook walk trail If you appreciate a reward at the end of a hike, try the Meelup Brook trail. Start at Meelup Beach and the 1.2km trail is largely uphill, but once you reach Meelup Farmhouse at the top and have lunch or a bevy it’ll all be worth it! Start on the grassed area of Meelup beach between the car parks and follow the path towards

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 77

/ THERE’S NOTHING LIKE A BRACING OCEAN BREEZE TO MAKE YOU FEEL ALIVE! /

Image Dylan Dehaas

Walking offers unique vantage points and lookouts you can’t reach by car.

the bush to the under-road tunnel. The path is universal access until you reach a timber deck overlooking Meelup Brook which will be flowing in autumn and winter. Continue upstream along a gravel firebreak. Meelup Farmhouse is signposted.

Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse walk trails There’s nothing like a bracing ocean breeze to make you feel alive! Enjoy a choice of three scenic walks from Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse. There’s the 3.5km Access for More track suitable for walkers of all abilities and wheelchairs. The 4km Cape Naturaliste Track is a loop walk with great views of the dramatic coastline around the north-west tip of the Cape. Winter is the best time to enjoy

78 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

the 2.4km return Whale Lookout Walk for the opportunity to spot humpback and southern right Whales, and the 3.6km Bunker Bay Loop finishes on the majestic cliffs over Shelley Cove and a stunning view looking across to Bunker Bay.

Yallingup Beach Walks A choice of walks from Yallingup beach

cater for all levels of ability and wildflower lovers. The Quenda Trail (brown markers) is a loop which can start and finish at either Rabbits carpark or Smiths Beach and includes a 4km section of the Cape to Cape Track. The Torpedo Trail (blue markers) is perfect for those staying at Caves House, Seashells, Caves Caravan Park or Yallingup Beach Holiday Park as

Multi award-winning chocolate products and gifts

Free chocolate tastings and viewing window

they are close to the 3km loop walk to the beach, along Yallingup Brook and back up the hill. If driving, park in the Torpedo Rock car park at the top of Yallingup Beach Road, or at Caves House and enjoy a pub lunch after your walk. The Ghost Trail is a short but pretty section of the Torpedo Trail from the heritage gardens of Caves House to Yallingup Beach. The 6.3km Wardanup Trail (orange markers) circuit starts and ends at the Rabbits carpark at the northern end of Yallingup Beach, or alternately Ngilgi Cave. It covers a variety of terrain from beach to heath, hills, peppermint forest and valleys, and it’s a terrific way to acquaint yourself with the Yallingup coast and town. For a short 600m walk try the Caves Trail starting near the entry of Ngilgi Cave looping around the cave system under the peppermint trees.

Smiths Beach to Canal Rocks Start at Smiths Beach car park and walk to the southernmost point to join the Cape to Cape track. This is arguably one of the best sections of the well-known hike to do in a couple of hours. Walk along cliff edges, around rocky outcrops and

through coastal bushland with amazing views along the way. Be prepared for some rock hopping. If the weather’s good, stop for a swim at the aquarium and finish at Canal Rocks or return the same way. For a bigger challenge, continue on the track to Injidup Beach car park.

Great value cafe for breakfast, lunch & sweets

Yelverton National Park This is a lesser-known but beautiful walk through unspoilt bushland which is stunning in wildflower season to spot some lesser known species. We took about three hours to return to our starting point on Abbey’s Farm Road. There’s a small sign to show the walk trail. It’s a bit overgrown in parts but if you’re up for an adventure it’s a great walk. For more information visit trailswa. com.au and meeluppark.com. A really useful guide is Jane Scott’s Walking Round in Circles or the Cape to Cape Track Guidebook for detailed maps and descriptions. For guided walks contact Koomal Dreaming, AdventureWorks WA, South West Eco Discoveries, Margaret River Exposed, Edgewalkers, Margaret River Discovery Co, Cape to Cape Explorer Tours or Bike Swim Hike Dunsborough.

•

Shop online when you go home at chocolatefactory.com.au

Present this ad for a free coffee and truffle with every coffee and truffle purchased 415 Harman’s Mill Rd, Metricup WA 6280 Ph: (08) 9755 6555

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 79

www.chocolatefactory.com.au

MARGARET RIVER Margaret River is a productive place; that’s been known for generations, and generations before that. The Margaret River and the abundance that surrounds it has been a vital life source here for tens of thousands of years. Farmers, winemakers, surfers and artists have congregated here, inspired by nature’s beauty and its wrath in equal parts. Tall trees, open ocean, rocky cliffs and undulating plains - a mosaic of fertility from which those who live here eek their livelihood, and everything you enjoy when you visit exists because of it, too. The fine wine and the food that makes you lean back in your chair as you chew; the waves you ride that pique your adrenaline; the walks you take that rejuvenate you; it all stems from this glorious, enduring, precious patch of earth. You can’t avoid the interconnectedness of things here. And why would you want to? Margaret River. Inspired by nature.

80 / Tales & Trails

UP AR

ER S

It comes as a surprise to some visitors that Margaret River’s bustling town centre sits roughly 8km from the coast. But the main street never disappoints. There is an indelible buzz to the town centre with a mix of artisan stores and galleries, public street art, diverse drinking options and a good selection of retail shops.

Ma Dis rgare TO tilling Ct River CO ompan y W

MARGARET RIVER HIGHLIGHTS

ROTARY PARK

MA Jah Roc Galleries

The Village at Margs Margaret River Hotel Miki’s Open Kitchen Retyre Shoes Arc of Iris Morries

WALCLIFFE RD Margaret River HEART

FORREST RD

Skate Park

Life Cycle Bikes Blue Ginger Fine Foods The Garden Basket

FARMERS MARKET

WY ELL H

Cowaramup’s Arts Scene: Inspired by the landscape, local artists have put their stamp on Cowaramup. Explore artisan stores, galleries and studios in this unexpectedly creative little town.

Drift Café

Margaret River Fudge Factory

TO PREVELLY & GNARABUP BEACHES

2.4 KM

River Walk

Hillzeez Down South Surf Shop

Artful Ink Tattoo Studio Margs

The River Hotel

45 MIN

Burger Baby

B US S

Surfers Point: Generations of professional and amateur surfers alike have flocked here to surf the region’s famous point break - and it’s a good spot to eat fish and chips at sunset, too.

Margaret River Liquor Merchants Margaret River Artisan Store Sidekick Café Settlers Tavern Hillzeez Subculture Squidlips Fish’n’Chips Riversmith The Food Room

Swings and Roundabouts Margaret River

Boranup Forest: The beauty, texture and sheer height of the Karri trees in Boranup Forest inspire awe in even the hardest of hearts, marking Margaret River as somewhere special.

Margaret River: The lifeblood of the town’s fertile environment, the Margaret River flows through here and culminates at Rivermouth, a place for canoeing and kayaking, swimming and exploring.

IVE TR

La Scarpetta Trattoria

ARE

Margaret River Historical Society Hairy Marron Cafe

Wineries & Gourmet Dining: Margaret River’s fertile environment gives way to some of the world’s finest wines and produce that good chefs dream of.

Mammoth Cave: The ancient cave system that exists within Margaret River’s costal limestone ridge gives insight to Wadandi and natural history, and the true fertility and wonder of this land.

Margaret River Brewhouse

GU T O AU

STA

Town Map Visitors Centre

Gallery

Restaurant

Supermarket

Café

Pedestrian/cycle path

Bar

Dining/shopping precinct

Gift Shop

Green Space

Tales & Trails / 81

Image Rachel Claires

es t

THE SOUTHERN BACK ROADS

roa d The

offers t he b

. ises rpr su

82 / Tales & Trails

lled e v tra

Image Jinna Yang

THE SOUTHERN BACKROADS offer what many locals might label as hidden gems. With a geography that traverses fertile farmland, karri forests, and family-run wineries, the backroads offer an intensely diverse and uncrowded view of Margaret River. Immediately, you will get a sense of the region’s history. Through Rosabrook you will find Darnell’s General Store. Built in 1932, the one-stop-shop is a wellpreserved time capsule, complete with an old-fashioned petrol pump (where friendly staff will fuel your car!). Down the road, Jester’s Flat Equestrian is similarly nostalgic. The interior vintage décor of the weatherboard cottages, open fire, and wrap around veranda feels like you have stepped onto a film-set. Prepare to take in the wildflowers come August, and soak in morning tea on the lawn at The Berry Farm, then book a wine tasting at Stella Bella or Firetail Wines and family-run Brown Hill Estate. People around these parts are known for their creativity and The Southern Backroads is where you will discover their knack for innovation. Discover contemporary jewellery at Payet Gallery, and then stop by Mr Barval Wines which holds regular exhibitions with an indigenous focus. Further south, Si Vintners has an on-site sculptor whose life-sized whale sculpture sits in the garden opposite the cellar door. And at Arlewood Estate – the Italian influence of the family operation is strong, with their bespoke chocolate and wine-pairing experience an intimate indulgence. Ultimately, the Southern Backroads tells a story. A story of the region’s original timber and dairy settlements, the beginnings of family farming and winemaking, then the arrival of artists, and innovators. This blend of galleries, eateries and wineries in an abundant natural setting is rather captivating.

Natural farming methods at Si Vintners make for award winning wine.

1. Stella Bella Wines

3. Brown Hill Estate

With a charming little cellar door located just minutes from Margaret River, Stella Bella is your ideal starting point on the trail. Capturing the essence of southern Margaret River, Stella Bella rates amongst the best wineries in Australia with several unique ranges of wines crafted from their five vineyards dotted throughout the southern part of the region.

Brown Hill’s cellar door sits at the heart of their boutique winery and is operated by friendly members of this family-owned estate. The vineyard tasting room is pure small town Margaret River Region; a jarrah slab resting on a couple of oak barrels in the vineyard’s working winery. Traditional boutique winemaking is seen in the hand-picking and hand-sorting of the single estate grown fruit to ensure control over quality and character.

2. Darnell’s Store Step back in time at this historic general store established in 1932. For a peek into history, visit this traditional country general store with its quaint rustic shop front. A one-stop shop that features a grocery store, fuel station, Post Office as well as wholesome home-made meals and preserves.

4. Jesters Flat Jesters Flat provides horse riding activities for all levels of ability from the absolute beginner to the seasoned eventer. The charming clubhouse and surrounds are perfect for those relaxing while their fellow travellers head off

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 83

Image Cassandra Charlick

for a horse riding adventure. Owned and operated by locals with in-depth knowledge of the history and natural environment of the area.

5. Firetail Wines A tree changer owned small vineyard and cellar door in Rosa Glen producing medal winning wines from 40 year old vines. The cellar door is set amongst the trees and offers close views of the vines and local bird life. Firetail’s distinctive premium wines include Sparkling Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Rosé, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Dessert Wine. These medal winning wines are only available at the cellar door or via their website.

6. The Berry Farm The Berry Farm operates one of the oldest restaurants in the region and specialises in fruit and berry wines, liqueur style wines, fortified wines, sparkling wines,

84 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

and ciders. It is an operating horticultural farm that has an extensive avocado orchard, blueberries, raspberries, quince, stone fruit and figs. The family owned and operated winery and restaurant was a pioneer in the production of vinegars, chutneys, sauces, dressings, and jams in the Margaret River Region which are all available from their cellar door.

7. Si Vintners Si Vintners is about natural farming. Husband and wife team Sarah and Iwo both work on the vineyard and make the wines. This is chemical free farming, using biodynamic principles and minimal intervention wine making. With experience drawn from many overseas vintages and their wine project in Spain, the couple are passionate about the vineyard and the wines they make and visitors have the opportunity to see both vineyard and winery processes.

8. Arlewood Estate A cosy 10- seater cellar door with offerings of seasonal local chocolates paired with Italian inspired decadent wines. Enjoy views of the working sheep farm whilst sipping on wines by the firepit during winter or on the deck in summertime.

9. Mr Barval Drawing on his extensive experience in both Margaret River and Barolo (Italy) winemaker and owner Rob Gherardi employs an ultra-traditional wine-making model, aiming to produce wines utilising old world vineyard and winemaking techniques. Visitors can relax and enjoy a flight of fine wines in a stunning cellar door and art gallery, or outside in the sun, overlooking the Calgardup Brook and forest. Bring your own picnic or choose from a selection of local artisan cheeses and produce. Mr Barval is dog-friendly.

10. Payet Gallery

This unique Wildlife Centre amongst beautiful natural bushland features Australia’s largest collection of Eagles, Hawks, Falcons and Owls and specialises in education, rehabilitation and endangered species breeding. Visit Eagles Heritage and marvel at the unique relationship between birds of prey and their handlers in twice-daily flight displays. Your admission and purchases help them to continue their work in wildlife conservation.

your heart -Yahava KoffeeWorks is a playground for grown-ups and the theme is coffee. Yahava imports coffees and teas from all over the world and at a KoffeeWorks you will discover just how different coffees can be. Learn all the different ways to brew coffee and, of course, also see coffee being roasted fresh each day.

14. Yahava KoffeeWorks It can almost be guaranteed that you will discover a coffee that not only captures your taste buds but also

Southern Backroads Trail Guides are available at all of the region’s Visitor’s Centres.

•

Image Zac White

11. Eagles Heritage

tapenades, mustards, jams, pasta sauces and dukkah. Vasse Virgin skincare is made with sensitive skin in mind. Using only natural ingredients, including Australian extra virgin olive oil, plant extracts and essential oils to produce their beautiful Australian made skincare ranges.

Image Rachel Claires

The Payet brothers, Francois & Nicholas, have been handcrafting jewellery for over 30 years, drawing inspiration from the minute detail of organic hidden treasures found within their natural surroundings and the energy of the Margaret River Region. Beautifully crafted, sophisticated yet simple designs accentuate the use of sparkling gemstones and luscious pearls all created at their purpose-built working studio. A viewing window within the gallery allows you to watch the brothers at work. A beautiful selection of ceramics and outdoor sculptures are also on display.

12 A Maze’n

Image Cassandra Charlick

A Maze’n offers guests one of Margaret River’s most unique experiences - the largest hedge maze in Australia - two kilometres of paths with three-metre high walls. The maze, planted 26 years ago by the current owners is set on 5 ha of landscaped gardens. Also offering a challenging 18-hole mini golf course, BBQ’s, picnic grounds and play areas. They have a cafe to rest and relax between activities.

13. Vasse Virgin Luxurious Olive Oil natural skin care, hand made at the factory, see the products being made then test, try & indulge. A visit to the Vasse Virgin tasting room would not be complete without sampling the infamous Macadamia Pesto along with the scrumptious array of gourmet condiments ranging from hand-made

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 85

AUGUSTA In Augusta, something fundamental about life is understood that’s lost or forgotten elsewhere. Here, respect isn’t a buzzword or a banner. It’s people greeting each other in the street. It’s preserving heritage and environment even when resources are scarce. It’s savouring every last juicy bite of whiting or abalone or salty lick of chippy fingers. Life is simpler here, but it’s also intricate. The Blackwood River streams in from 400-kilometres north-west, culminating in the glassy Hardy Inlet, home to countless species of water bird and fish that comprise our rich ecosystem. Walking trails well-trodden extend from here through town, bush and out to sea. Two oceans collide at Cape Leeuwin, where at the right time of year, thousands of whales migrate. This place is raw and wild and unknown, but simultaneously at ease. And while other places grab for visitors with Instagram envy and expensive luxuries, we quietly attract them through our very nature. The old come to revel in simple delights they’ve always known; the young to discover them anew. There’re things to be learned here, things we’ve run from. Things so simple, they’re easily ignored. Things about how to live. Augusta. Get back to life.

86 / Tales & Trails

Bla Ho ckwoo use boa d Rive r ts

TO MA RG AR

ET RIV

oric Hist usta Aug eum Mus

Skate Park

AUGUSTA CIVIC PARK

na rgia Geo otel sta’s olloy M u g M Au

usta r Aug spowe New usta Aug ours rT e iv R

CRC usta Aug ial tenn all H Cen

HIL

E LV I

D WR

BOAT RAMP

HARDY

an Oce s Blue & Chip el Fish Hot usta Aug el t o M

air kch Dec Café

INLET

y e Ba Sein ments rt Apa

10 min 1.1 km BL A CK WO OD AV E

Augusta town centre often flies under the radar but those in the know love its wild charm. Take a stroll down the street and you’ll find eclectic vintage shops and cafes, secret record stores, and a pub with arguably the best view in WA. The Augusta folk are a chatty bunch too and it’s the local pearls of wisdom offered along the way that can make a visitor instantly smitten with the place.

ALL

AUGUSTA HIGHLIGHTS

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse: Maritime legend abounds at the tallest lighthouse on mainland Australia, situated at the most south-westerly point of Australia where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet.

Turner Caravan Park

THE COLOUR

PATCH FORESHORE TO CAPE LEEUWIN

Hamelin Bay: Share an intimate moment with a stingray in pristine Hamelin Bay.

Pioneer Memorial

LIGHTHOUSE

tch urpa t Colo uran The Resta

Lions Park

War Memorial

Blackwood River: Fish, swim or soak in the serenity to your heart’s content along the Blackwood River, the region’s most significant water source and the longest river in the south west. Walking Trails: A network of walking trails connects river, bush and sea in and around Augusta, forming pathways into the town’s unique history, flora and fauna. Eat Abalone: Forget the trims of fine dining; sink your teeth into a piece of locally farmed abalone at The Colourpatch seafood restaurant.

Town Map Visitors Centre

Accommodation

Restaurant

Supermarket

Café

Pedestrian/cycle path

Bar

Dining/shopping precinct

Gift Shop

Green Space

Gallery

Whale Watching: Flinders Bay becomes a nursery for the next generation of Southern Right Whales from May August, and whales can be seen in all their glory from boat, beach and lookout.

Tales & Trails / 87

LIFE AWAY FROM THE EVERYDAY:

Reigniting Nostalgia in Augusta WORDS | Sarah Robinson

If you’re heading that way, here are some things to fill your day.

9am Coffee at the Colourpatch The Colourpatch is a café restaurant that overlooks the Blackwood River. Inside you’ll find a beautifully restored wooden yacht, built in the sixties by Jim Thompson, a retired farmer from Albany. They also do a good looking full breakfast.

IMAGE Russell Ord

Not being on the way to anything is Augusta’s secret superpower. It means the people who adventure there know how special it is. And of course, there’s less bustle. The lazy seaside town is around three hours south of Perth.

Jetty near town. Along the way, you’re bound to see the odd pelican. If you’re lucky, a dolphin. The walk should take you about an hour, and afterwards, you can swim out to the pontoon or rest awhile on the grass under shady trees. If you have kids, there’s an amazing playground. Let the little ones run amuck while you take in the bay. It’s the little moments that make a day in Augusta special.

10am Walk the Pelican Trail and Swim Just 300 metres from the Colourpatch, at the bottom of Albany Terrace, is Seine Bay. From here, you can start a 2.4 kilometre walk along bridge, boardwalk and bitumen. It’s an easy meander, which follows the Blackwood River to Ellis Street

88 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

12pm Eat Fish and Chips in Town Along the main strip, you’ll find Blue Ocean Fish and Chips – a seafood spot loved by locals and visitors in the know. Seafood is caught fresh at the local marina and prepared onsite. You’ll find all your

favourites, which can be grilled, battered or crumbed. Plus prawns, crab sticks, calamari rings, and all the other good bits that make fish and chips the best.

1.30pm Granny’s Pool and the Lighthouse Jump in the car and head to Granny’s Pool, a waist deep hamlet surrounded by rocks –perfect for little people and the elderly folk its name celebrates. If the other side of Augusta is wild, you’re likely to find good conditions here. If it’s warm enough (or you’re brave enough) don a snorkel and explore, or search for crabs among the rocks. When you’re done, your next pitstop is the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse – a nine-minute drive, which

Hamelin Bay or Turner Street jetty are best enjoyed with fish and chips.

A TAST E OF T H E V I NE YARD From our unique terroir to your glass An intimate and unique opportunity to explore one Margaret River’s most exclusive and awarded estates.

takes you to the very tip of the peninsula. Guided tours happen every half an hour, and will set you back around twenty dollars (ten for kids under 16). The tour takes you to the top of the lighthouse, which is perfect for spotting whales and taking in the rugged coastline.

Tour our immaculate Estate and gardens in an EV buggy as we guide you through a selection of critically acclaimed Parterre wines, deep within the vineyards from which they are created.

3pm Hamelin Bay

IMAGE Ross Wyness

Hamelin Bay is about three epic road trip tunes away. It’s famous for sting rays, which swim close to shore to say hello. Sting ray etiquette says its best to admire them from the beach, not in the water. The swimming at Hamelin Bay is next-level, just find a spot clear of rays and head on in. The ruined jetty at Hamelin Bay is a relic of the busy timber shipping hub it used to

BOOK ONLINE frasergallopestate.com.au/cellar-door Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 89 493 Metricup Rd, Wilyabrup | Ph. 9755 7553

IMAGE Ross Wyness

The Colourpatch Cafe (above) sits right across from the Blackwood river.

IMAGE Russell Ord

be. In 1900 the old jetty was abandoned, after five ships wrecked in a powerful storm. Divers can still explore the wrecks.

5pm Pizza at Gusty’s Gusty’s Pizza is a local legend, serving up hand rolled, wood fired pizza and slow cooked ribs in a 1951 Guy Arab Bus. You’ll see the bus parked up, just before you hit town. It’s a good idea to call ahead, since they sell out most nights. Gusty’s is best enjoyed on the park benches out front, or take dinner away to a quiet spot by the Blackwood.

90 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

WHERE TO STAY IN AUGUSTA Meandering along the Blackwood River is one of the most incredible ways to explore Augusta. Blackwood River Houseboats owner, Pamela Winter, says boats cruise along 28 kilometres of untouched national parkland. “It’s really beautiful and it’s a real wilderness,” she says, “It’s just you and the river.” You don’t need a skipper’s ticket to hire a houseboat, just an induction session to make sure you operate the vessel safely. Houseboats are heated in winter, and

come with a dinghy so you can moor close to town and head to shore. There are also plenty of great accommodation spots to choose from on land too. Check out the reviews before booking, and enjoy taking life down a notch in this special town. Before it was a holiday spot. Before it was a whaling town or a timber export hub, Augusta was (and always will be) home to the Wadandi and Pibulmun Noongar people.

•

HOW TO: Cook and Eat Augusta’s Prized Abalone WORDS | Jinna Yang IMAGES | Samira Damirova

AN INTERNATIONALLY SOUGHT-AFTER seafood delicacy, the abalone of Augusta is a local treasure. They’re adorned with a shell, but abalone are not actually shellfish, instead reefdwelling marine snails. Fifteen different species of abalone call Western Australia their home, but the three large enough to be fished are the Roe’s abalone, Greenlip abalone and Brownlip abalone. Known for their plump, juicy and tender flesh — abalone have the shortest fishing seasons in the wild, but thanks to Ocean Grown Abalone, they’re now more accessible than ever before. Founder and local fisherman Brad Adams worked to create the artificial reef spanning 45km of Augusta’s ocean floor — where abalone hand-plucked from the wild are taken to feed and mature until they’re ready to be sustainably harvested for the public. “The OGA abalone ranch in Flinders Bay is where two of the world’s great oceans – the Southern and Indian – collide to provide

pristine, clean, nutrient-rich waters that provide unrivalled environmental conditions in which to grow the world’s most premium abalone,’’ says Brad. Chef Patron of Osteria Francescana and 3 star Michelin chef Massimo Bottura tried it and raved, “One of the most amazing things I have ever tasted. It is juicy, tender, tasting of the earth and the ocean. Tasting the abalone in my dish was one of the Gourmet Escape weekend’s cooking highlights.” Sustainably harvested, native to the Southwest Coast, and surprisingly versatile in the kitchen — there’s never been a better time to satisfy a seafood craving with this delicious ocean jewel. Margaret River’s own Master Chef and Food Photographer Samira Damirova, well-known for her signature artisan style derived from her beloved homeland of Azerbaijan, takes us through three exciting new ways to cook and eat Augusta’s prized abalone. // continued over

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 91

Shabby Chic Abalone in a Wok

Ingredients: 2 abalone, thinly sliced 1/2 tbsp oil (any mild flavoured oil) 2-3 tbsp butter (salted butter) 4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 1/2 dried red chilli, thinly sliced Few generous turns of freshly cracked pepper Salt to taste if needed To garnish: Lime juice Fresh coriander Edible flowers if desired Crusty bread and a glass of local Sauvignon Blanc Semillon to serve. Method: Using a meat hammer, mallet each slice of abalone (use the spiky side of the mallet). Place the wok over the wok burner over medium high, add the oil, butter garlic, chilli and cracked pepper and stir them around the wok for a few moments until the garlic releases its aroma. Increase the heat to high and immediately add the tenderised abalone slices, toss them for a minute or until abalone no longer appear to look translucent. Try not to cook the abalone for too long as it will get tough if overcooked, you essentially need to heat abalone through to seal it.

P.S. if you’re pressed for time and prefer to skip the cooking, head straight to Blue Manna Bistro in Dunsborough and ask for their abalone special! They also have a seafood shop next door where you can purchase products from Augusta’s Magic Abalone team, allowing you to experiment with cooking at home.

Remove the abalone from the wok into serving dish, reserving the juices. Add butter to the juices and stir though until it’s completely melted. Dress the abalone with the juices and garnish with fresh coriander leaves, edible flowers if desired. Serve alongside crusty bread, lime wedges or cheeks and a glass of cold Sauvignon Blanc Semillon. You can learn more about Chef Samira Damirova and her recipes on her instagram: @samsfoodiesgoods.

•

92 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Deep Fried Abalone With Jalapeño Sauce

IMAGE Russell Ord

Ingredients: 4 medium-small abalones, thinly sliced 1 cup panko breadcrumbs

Taste, and if necessary, add more salt, sugar or cumin until suited to your palate.

1/3 cup cornflour

To deep fry abalone:

2 eggs, whisked with a pinch of salt

Using the spiky side of a meat mallet, tenderise both sides of each abalone slice. Be mindful not to hit too hard to avoid tearing the slices. Chef tip: A wooden chopping board with a damp towel underneath will take away some of the noise.

1L oil for deep frying For the Jalapeño Sauce: 6 jalapeno peppers 1 small bunch of fresh coriander 1/3 cup cashew nuts 1/2 lime juice 1 tbsp white wine vinegar or to taste 1/2 tbs sugar or to taste (or 1tsp of honey) 1 1/2 tsp sea salt or to taste 1/2 tsp ground cumin Method: To make the Jalapeño sauce: Wash and pat dry the jalapeños (use Serrano peppers or any other green chili peppers with thick flesh if you can’t get your hands on a jalapeño). Remove the seeds (Wear gloves or use a teaspoon to scrape the seeds out).

A small complex of unique self-contained holiday homes situated opposite the Busselton Foreshore and a short walk to the famous Busselton Jetty

Start heating oil in a deep fryer or medium-size saucepan. Roll each slice of abalone in cornflour, then dip in beaten eggs and roll in panko crumbs (you can repeat the egg dipping and panko crumb rolling a second time to make them twice-coated). Check if your oil is hot enough by dropping a breadcrumb into the oil. If it sizzles and turns brown quickly, your oil is ready. In a few batches, drop the coated abalone slices into the hot oil. Be mindful not to burn yourself, and have a tea towel and a slotted spoon ready.

Roughly chop the coriander including the stems (for extra flavor).

The abalone will take less than a minute on each side. Once browned, fish them out using a slotted spoon and move to a tray.

Place all ingredients into a food processor and whizz until smooth.

Dip with the sauce and serve with an ice cold local brew.

94 Marine Terrace Busselton busseltonjettychalets.com Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 93 (08) 9752 3893 / 0477 999 362

T&T / DIRECTORY

JOHN STRE ATER FINE FURNITURE

BIG VALLEY CAMPSITE

JOHN STREATER FINE FURNITURE AND ART GALLERY John Streater Designer and Master Craftsman of contemporary bespoke hardwood furniture. Also showcasing art, jewellery, woodturning and more. A visit to our gallery will leave you truly inspired.

NESTLED AMONGST THE HILLS OF OUR FAMILY OWNED WORKING SHEEP FARM, JUST TEN MINUTES SOUTH EAST OF MARGARET RIVER. The farm encompasses a beautiful secret valley secluded from the outside world by natural forest. Bring your Caravan, Motorhome or Tent to relax and enjoy the open space, amazing nights skies, friendly farm animals and the family friendly atmosphere. Pet friendly.

105 Blythe road, Yallingup Siding 6282 WA Open daily 10am to 4pm Ph 08 9755 1211 www.streaterfinefurniture.com

Ph 08 9757 5020 bigvalleymargaretriver.com.au

DUNSBOROUGH BEACH COTTAGES

ABSOLUTE BEACHFRONT ON THE SHORES OF GEOGRAPHE BAY Dunsborough Beach Cottages is situated on the pristine waters of Geographe Bay just 2.5 hours south of Perth. We offer beautifully appointed self-contained 2 & 3 bedroom resort style cottages, including our adults only beachfront cottages. From here you can walk to the Dunsborough town centre or within a short distance you can experience a range of award winning wineries, galleries and restaurants, making

Dunsborough Beach Cottages the ideal choice for families, couples or anyone looking to enjoy a beachfront escape in the Margaret River region. Be sure to visit our website for the latest offers and rates.

Ph 08 9756 8885 info@dunsboroughbeachcottages.com.au

Affordable Dog-Friendly Range of Quality Accommodation and Camping Sites in Busselton.

place. Your place. Our place. Stocker Preston spans across the Southwest in four beautiful locations. Combining over 100 years of Real Estate Property experience, our team of over 50, each share an undeniable passion for the region’s spectacular landscapes, environmental assets, unique creatures and soulful communities.

Tel: 9755 4082 585 Caves Road, Busselton

www.fourseasonsresort.com.au 94 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

STOCKER

RESTON

stockerpreston.com.au

WHALERS COVE VILL AS

Whalers Cove Villa a fabulous beachfront location with 16 self-catering villas, only a short stroll to Dunsborough’s stylish shops and cafes. Make this your base for exploring the Margaret River Region. whalerscove.com.au (08) 9755 3699 3 Lecaille Ct, Dunsborough

Relax in style between the forest and the town on the main street of Margaret River

E: stay@margaretsforest.com.au W: www.margaretsforest.com.au

JACARANDA GUEST HOUSE SOUTH WEST LUXURY TRANSPORT WHAT WE OFFER

PARK YOUR CAR AND WALK EVERYWHERE Busselton famous Jetty, beach, shops, cafe and restaurants all just a short walk away. Jacaranda Guest House is centrally located, has 7 guest rooms all with own ensuite, r/c airconditioning and free wifi. It is nestled amongst english style gardens, where You can just relax or enjoy a bbq. Continental breakfast is included in the price. 30 West Street, Busselton, WA Ph 08 9751 5973 • jacarandaguesthouse1@westnet.com.au www.jacarandaguesthouse.com

PREMIUM PRIVATE TOURS OF THE SOUTH WEST

RESTAURANT, WEDDING + EVENT TRANSFERS

Premium Luxury Transport that ensures you travel in style and arrive safely. Andrew 0499 319 914 / andrew@southwestluxurytransport.com.au

southwestluxurytransport

South West Luxury Transport

www.southwestluxurytransport.com.au

TASTINGS FROM THURSDAY TO MONDAY 10.30AM TO 4.30PM 3478 CAVES ROAD, WILYABRUP 9750 4000 | www.robertoatley.com.au

5 STAR WINERY JAMES HALLIDAY - AUSTRALIAN WINE COMPANION 2019

RobertOatleyWines

J-51397 Layout.indd 1

robertoatleywines

18/02/2020 7:09:35 PM

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 95

T&T / DIRECTORY

SUNFLOWERS ANIMAL FARM & FARMSTAY MARGARET RIVER REGION

Visit Western Australia’s iconic regional gallery, just 20 mins south of Margaret River on historic Caves Rd. EX PE RIENC E AR T IN THE HEA R T OF We’ve been making fine furniture B ORA NUP F OR EST onsite for three decades. Proudly representing local and regional artists – Janey Emery, Chris Spiker, VisitHooper, Western Chris Australia's John Cartwright and many more. iconic regional gallery,

Boranup Gallery

p Gallery

N ITU RE & ART

Visit Western Australia's iconic regional gallery, just 20 mins south of Margaret River on historic Caves Rd. We've been making fine furniture onsite for three decades. Proudly representing local & regional artists - Janey Emery, Chris Hooper, Chris Spiker, John Cartwright & many more. Delicious artisan gelato Find us in gourmet stores + cafes across the South West gelatobuonissimo.com.au/find-us

We offer farmstay accommodation in 4 fully self contained units, sleeping between 5 and 9 people, near Margaret River in the South West of Western Australia. Sunflowers Farmstay is ideal for big groups of friends or families (max 28 people). Wander through the Animal Farm, with over 350 very friendly (mainly) farm animals, at any time during your stay. Sip local wines while admiring our stunning views: wild kangaroos grazing on rolling hills covered in beautiful wildflowers. 5561 Caves Road, near Margaret River Ph: (08) 9757 3343 • farmerjones@sunflowersfarm.com www.sunflowersfarm.com

20 F mins south of Margaret Fjust INE URN I TU R E & A RT

T IN TH E HE A RT OF UP FO R E ST

T IN E

EXPERIENCE ART IN THE HEART OF BORANUP FOREST

River on historic Caves Rd. We've been making fine furniture onsite for three decades. Proudly representing local & regional artists - Janey Emery, Chris Hooper, Chris Spiker, John Cartwright & many more. FINE FURNITURE & ART

MEET ARTIST IN RESIDENCE ADAM STANLEY

WINE TOURS OF DISTINCTION

WISTERIA COTTAGE

MARGARET RIVER’S ORIGINAL AND BEST WINERY TOURS

REST, RELAX, EXPLORE.

Half Day and Full Day Gourmet Wine & Dine Tours

We visit a selection of the following wineries; Leeuwin Estate, Xanadu, Voyager Estate, McHenry Hohnen, Cape Grace and Brown Hill. Full Day tours include lunch at Xanadu. All tours include tasting fees at cellar doors, vineyard plate, and samples of smallgoods & chocolate. 7981 Caves Road, Margaret River Open Daily 10am ~ 4pm (08) 9757 7585 info@borunupgallery.com www.boranupgallery.com

Ph: 0419 917 166 info@margaretrivertours.com 7981 Caves Road, Margaret River. Open Daily 10am - 4pm www.margaretrivertours.com

(08) 9757 7585 info@boranupgallery.com

Whether you are here for rest and relaxation or to explore our amazing atttractions we hope you enjoy the peace and tranquility that is Wisteria Cottage. A one bedroom self contained cottage.

Wisteria Cottage

31 Dekkers, Rd Deepdene WA 6290 M 0407 084 086 wisteriacottageaugusta@gmail.com

JESTERS FL AT

s Road, Margaret River. Open Daily 10am - 4pm 9757 7585 info@boranupgallery.com

From a casual stroll through the majestic Karri Forest to an exhilarating multi day trek, JESTERS FLAT has it all! Tours, pricing and details are available online at www.jestersflat.com The perfect way to see Margaret River ... from the back of one of our magnificent horses. PH: +61897574562 • E: bookings@jestersflat.com

96 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Cellar Door & Vineyard Kitchen 3277 Caves Road, Wilyabrup Open 7 days 10am - 5pm 08 9755 6225 Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 97 www.clairaultstreicker.com.au/visit

GETTING AROUND

Westward Aviation Charter Services Depart from Jandakot Airport as the sun rises and enjoy stunning views of the Swan River, Fremantle Harbour, Rockingham, Mandurah, the Peel Inlet and Bunbury then on to either Busselton or Margaret River. Westward Aviation will transfer you from the airport to the city and take you back at no extra cost. Your return journey will be just as spectacular with the sun setting over the Indian Ocean and the night lights of the City of Perth. westwardaviation.com.au IMAGE Three Bears Sunset

South West Luxury Transport Locally owned and operated by ex-Qantas pilot, Andrew and local artist Rebekah, the team at South West Luxury Transport bring a culmination of skills to ensure the most premium of experiences. southwestluxurytransport.com.au

VIRTUALLY BY COACH TRANS WA

South West Coach Lines Catch the express coach service connecting Perth, Perth Domestic and Perth International Airport terminals with Busselton, Dunsborough, Margaret River. southwestcoachlines.com.au

BY CAR Margaret River Rent a Car To see the best of the region, hire a car or people mover from Margaret River – all you need is a driver’s licence, even if it’s an interstate or international one. margaretriverrentacar.com.au

98 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Offering delivery and pick-up throughout the south west, Busselton & South West Rent a Car is a local, family-owned car rental company. busseltonswrentacar.com.au IMAGE Tim Campbell

Trans WA19 travels from Perth to Margaret River every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, with optional drop-offs along the way and returns to Perth the same day. Keep hold of your ticket and return to Perth at a later date. wa-getaway.com.au

Busselton & South West Rent a Car

Avis Southwest Car Hire Explore the beautiful Margaret River region at your own pace with a rental from Avis Southwest Car Hire in Busselton. One-way rentals are available back to Perth. avis.com.au

IN STYLE McLeod Tours Take in Margaret River’s scenery and attractions with local expert and awardwinning guide Neil McLeod. The three-day Escape tour provides pick-up from your Perth hotel or Perth train station, comfortable bus transport, three days touring with a dedicated tour guide, delicious food and wine, and an exciting itinerary. mcleodtours.com.au

Margaretriver.com The number one travel authority in the region, margaretiver.com is full of inspiration and practical information on how to navigate your way around the region. Pop up webchat and telephone enquiries will also answer any of your more curly questions.

•

Discover the southwest with Avis. With our locations at Bunbury, Busselton and Busselton-Margaret River Airport.

1 8 0 0 67 9 8 8 0 | av i s . c o m . au

Blue Manna bistro

PASSIONATE ABOUT SEAFOOD

www.bluemannabistro.com.au - 08 9786 5051 - 1/16 Cyrillean Way, Dunsborough, WA Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com / 99

OBC - John Miller Design

100 / Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Tales and Trails - the NEW Margaret River Region Magazine

Articles inside

AUGUSTA

MARGARET RIVER

BUSSELTON