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PEACHES IN FOLDER Ca n ned Peaches
Welcome to the fresh world of canned peaches! Peach compote: - fully preserves the freshness of the fruit - improves the nutritional efficiency of vitamins C and A - can be relished all year round - is easy to use, in numerous ways - contains no preservatives or GMOs
CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION AND GREECE
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MARCH/ APRIL 2019 10
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WHEN OLD GETS NEW MICHELLE BOUFFARD
Who says the Old World is mired in tradition? These six producers prove differently.
NCH 19
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, NEGRONI
CHRISTINE SISMONDO
Like almost all cocktail origin stories, the details are slightly hazy and the facts are under some dispute.
COLUMNS 6 | LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO Beef broth can make for an interesting cocktail.
8 | UMAMI LISA HOEKSTRA
14 | BOJO IS BACK! EVAN SAVIOLIDIS 9 exciting reasons why you should know the holy land of Gamay Noir.
16 | THROUGH NEW EYES KONRAD EJBICH
Eating vegan, one cookbook at a time.
The Old World seen through the eyes of New World winemakers.
9 | LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
22 | GETTING WARMER NANCY JOHNSON
Bock is a beer style built for the spring.
Valentines may have passed but there’s no reason not to heat things up in the kitchen.
26 | BUYING GUIDE The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.
34 | AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER Whispersing into Van Gogh’s ear.
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MARCH/APRIL 2019 3
LETTER FROM THE WINE EDITOR
WWW.QUENCH.ME EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR
Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me MANAGING EDITOR
Lisa Hoekstra lhoekstra@quench.me CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Tod Stewart tstewart@quench.me COLUMNISTS
Tony Aspler, Robin LeBlanc, Peter Rockwell, Christine Sismondo CONTRIBUTORS
Michelle Bouffard, Evan Saviolidis, Konrad Ejbich, Christine Sismondo, Nancy Johnson THE 100-MILE DIET, THE POPULARITY AND PROLIFERATION OF FARMERS’ MARKETS , and seemingly every independent and chain
restaurant touting menus comprised of locally-sourced, sustainably-farmed ingredients all point to a greater concern and interest in the food we are consuming. Remarkably, as more and more people are concerned with the traceability of their food, that concern doesn’t seem to apply to the wines they drink. How can someone shop at the farmers’ market because they want to know where their food is from, but then stop at the liquor store and buy a bottle of some generic, sugar-laden bulk wine that’s been manufactured like soda pop? How can restaurants and hotels promote food menus supporting local, sustainable producers, using vegetables and herbs grown in their organic gardens and honey harvested from their own beehives, yet possess wine lists filled with mass-produced, commoditized wines that have no traceable origin or sense of place? How do you know where your wine comes from? In some cases, you can tell just by picking up the bottle. Azienda Agricola on the label of an Italian wine, Weingut on a German label, and Chateau or Domaine on a French label, for example, refer to vineyard estates, meaning the grapes used to make the wine must come entirely from vineyards owned by the producer. “Estate grown” or single vineyard designations provide traceability for New World wines. On the Finca Decero labels from Argentina, for example, it clearly states “Remolinos Vineyard” and “Grown-Made-Bottled at Finca Decero — Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina.” But how can you tell, if you don’t know and it’s not clear on the label? You ask someone that does know. It seems that people are much more comfortable asking about their food’s origins than they are asking about the wines they drink. Take the opportunity to start a conversation with your local wine shop staff or restauranteur. It’s important that we support quality wine producers whose philosophies and practices of traceability and sense of place align with the food producers we support. In general, I believe you will find that these wines taste better, are more interesting, better reflect the grape varieties, styles and vineyard sites of their origins, provide better value and are healthier for body, mind and soul. 4 MARCH/APRIL 2019
TASTERS
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Push/Stop, Take the Next Shot
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VINEA IN FOLDER
Vinea, latin for vine, is a small batch premium grape based liqueur produced in Niagara-on-the-Lake, the heart of Ontario's wine country.
Coming soon to an LCBO near you.
LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
BROKEN BONES Remember the Bullshot cocktail? Well, unless you have a long memory, the answer is likely “no.” Some, however, might faintly recall having heard of a beef broth-vodka drink that survived into the 1990s (thanks to a few nostalgic, salty old-timers) even though it was well past its best-before date by then.
Invented in mid-century Detroit, this odd-sounding broth cocktail enjoyed a good run throughout the 1950s and 60s, especially in California, where it was popular with celebrities who embraced the Bullshot as both a novelty and a proto-wellness drink. Like many trendy cocktails, though, it got too popular for its own good and started to fade about 50 years ago. Which, obviously, makes it a perfect candidate for a revival, especially given that bone broth is currently enjoying a moment. It’ll need to be reinvented, of course, since the original was really quite basic — vodka, beef stock, Worcestershire, celery salt and, for the more adventurous types, a drop or two of Tabasco. In all, hardly appropriate for our new golden age of cocktails. “I started to see some bars offering a bone broth, but it was usually just mixed with a really clean-tasting white spirit, like a white rum, so I think the goal was really just to serve warm broth infused with alcohol,” says Jared Wall, beverage outlet manager at the Prince George Hotel in downtown Halifax. “I wanted to go outside of the box and instead of using something warm, wanted to do something a little more like a cocktail.” Wall’s first thought was fat-washing, since that’s been widely-used by bartenders for infusing spirits with bacon, duck or foie gras flavour. It’s a pretty simple process that involves adding warm, liquified fat (such as leftover bacon grease) to a spirit, refrigerating it for a day and then, after it’s imparted the flavour to the spirit, removing the congealed fat from the top. Unfortunately, bone broth is just about completely fat-free, so Wall decided to try freezing it into cubes and using them in his signature Broken Bone cocktail, a smoky, slightly meaty Old Fashioned with a hint of pecan. “They’re small, one-by-one inch cubes, which we chose because they’d melt at a perfect rate. We added about five to six cubes to the glass and by the time we stirred the drink, you could already taste the essence of the broth in there,” says Wall. “Everyone really liked how it slowly integrated into the drink as the 6 MARCH/APRIL 2019
ice melted, like a fat-wash cocktail with that kind of umami-rich characteristic you get when the protein seems to change the structure of the spirit.” After the cocktail is finished, patrons could wait for all the ice to fully melt and drink back a chill, locally-sourced, high-quality bone broth, infused with a little sweet whisky flavour. Nothing like getting two drinks for the price of one. As a bonus, you could probably justify the second one as part of a wellness regimen. Or, just enjoy it as a little tasty dividend — a second drink.
THE BROKEN BONE
2 oz Woodford Reserve Double Oaked bourbon (if unavailable, any smoky bourbon will do) 1 sugar cube 3 dashes Apothecary Mason-Dixon Southern Pecan bitters 6 frozen bone-broth cubes Large orange peel zested Place the sugar cube in a rocks glass and douse it with three dashes of pecan bitters, as well as a splash of bourbon to help break it down. Muddle until it’s become thick syrup. Add ice. Then bourbon. Stir well for 60 seconds. Express oils from peel and drop zest into glass. Stir again for 15 seconds. × × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES
X AD FETA IN FOLDER
UMAMI LISA HOEKSTRA
RAWSOME
FOR SOME, BEING VEGAN IS ABOUT LIVING CRUELTY FREE; FOR OTHERS, IT’S ABOUT THE DIET AND LIVING A HEALTHY LIFESTYLE. For Em von Euw,
it is both. A young, non-binary Canadian blogger and university student with six cookbooks under their belt, Em von Euw transitioned to veganism in 2011 at the age of 16, and started their Rawsome Vegan Life blog shortly after. Von Euw grew up near Turtle Island, about 15 minutes from Vancouver. Local berries and other indigenous foods grew in abundance near their childhood home. “Veganism is not the answer to everything. There are bigger problems we must face. Eating vegan takes less of a toll on the planet and requires much less violence and abuse, so being able to provide books that promote veganism is a gift,” von Euw says. Speaking of gifts, von Euw’s most recent cookbook, Rawsome Superfoods, was released this past December. “This is my favourite book yet,” says von Euw. Their cookbook titles include The Rawsome Vegan Cookbook, 100 Best Juices, Smoothies and Healthy Snacks, and Rawsome Vegan Baking. What makes von Euw’s achievements so amazing is that they do every part of the cookbook creation: recipe development, content creation, and photography. It hasn’t been easy for von Euw. They faced the usual challenges of being 8 MARCH/APRIL 2019
vegan — finding ingredients and crafting delicious recipes that fit the dietary restrictions. Von Euw develops each and every recipe in their cookbooks. They find their flavours in many ways, though “usually by accident.” “I am drawn to weird labels and sexy colours and textures,” they say. “This is how I discovered my love of sesame oil, for example. I also smell ingredients a lot and think about how different flavours can work together (or not).” But there was more that they had to face than just food-based challenges. An anxiety disorder and depression proves to be an ongoing battle for von Euw, one they frequently win, if their cookbooks are any indication. “Worry spirals, panic attacks, lack of motivation and energy all make everything difficult. This includes writing cookbooks. Plus, balancing my other ‘responsibilities’ in life, maintaining other priorities and trying to find a way to keep my books consistent with my politics are all little challenges!” von Euw explains. Over the years, von Euw’s relationship with food has changed. “There have been so many phases of learning and growth over the many years of my being vegan,” says von Euw. “I have had to recover from years of eating disorders and believing diet pseudoscience in order
to land here, in a healthy relationship with food, all while maintaining a vegan lifestyle. That is challenging at times, but I have the support I need to accomplish it without usually being triggered.” Blogging about their experiences and writing their cookbooks helped them grow. “My cookbooks are all very different because I’m a dynamic person. I’m always changing,” explains von Euw. “So for each book, you find a snapshot of who I was when I wrote it. What recipes I enjoyed, what ingredients I preferred, what resources I was consuming, what messages about food I thought were important. Additionally, my photography style is noticeably different in each book. Again, this is because I am always trying something new and seeing where it takes me. I am so happy to share with the world recipes that people want and words that people need to hear.” It is a wonderful thing to see a young person with so much success already develop a healthy relationship with food. “Food is powerful in that we can connect over it, it gives us life, and recipes and ingredients contain multitudes of rich cultural, political, social and economic histories,” says von Euw. “Humans can eat an amazing diversity of foods and get by just fine. At the end of the day, eat what you want and live your life.” ×
LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
BOCK & ROLL As much as I appreciate the chilly months, the seasons that will always be close to my heart are the in-between ones: autumn and spring.
It’s not too cold but not too hot either, and walking around the street with a light and cozy jacket just puts me in my comfort zone. There’s also the added optimism that spring brings, as the trees and flowers just begin to bloom in the cold as if looking forward to the warm times ahead. It’s also the best time to have a Bock, a dark, sweet, and fairly strong (around six to seven percent ABV) beer that is perfect for the season. Now, the style of Bock has a pretty deep history, dating back to 14th century brewers from the German town of Einbeck who created a style that was uniquely theirs. It was a fairly dark and very malty ale. The style was later adopted by Munich brewers who gave it some tweaks, primarily by making it a lager and, thanks to their Bavarian accent, butchering the name “Einbeck” and renaming the style “ein bock,” which means billy goat. Bock beers were historically consumed for religious festivals, particularly the spring celebrations of Easter and Lent. In fact, because the bock was so dense and rich in nutrients, monks would often have a specially modified version of the beer as a food substitute when they were fasting for Lent. To this day there is still the odd news story now and then about someone who drinks a specially made bock during Lent. Now, however, we have access to the beer whenever we want, though many breweries still make it just for the spring. There are also more substyles from the classic bock. The maibock is a common helles lager that’s brewed up to the alcohol strength of a common bock. The incredibly strong dopplebock is what the monks drank, going up to 12 percent, and is so dense it’s known as liquid bread. The eisbock is the strongest of the bocks, ranging from nine to 13 percent ABV, and incorporates the method of partially freezing a dopplebock and removing the concentrated ice. For those that are more accustomed to
German wheat beers, there’s the weizenbock which, as the name suggests, is made from wheat instead of barley. Now, while many local breweries make some fantastic bocks for both seasonal and year-round release, in this case I would heartily suggest going to some of the historical sources. Paulaner Brewery, for instance, was founded in 1634 by the Minim friars of the Neudeck ob der Au cloister and actually made the doppelbock for its intended religious use. Another well-known brewery, G. Schneider & Sohn, was responsible for making Aventinus, the very first weizenbock in Bavarian history back in 1907 and incorporated the eisbock freezing method. It’s sure to get you in the mood for the arrival of spring! × MARCH/APRIL 2019 9
WHEN OLD by Michelle Bouffard
GETS NEW The last couple of decades have been extremely generous to wine lovers. Quality has never been better and bottles with a story to tell are hailing from all around the globe. Australia is making some of the best Chardonnays in the world, South Africa is embracing its old-vine Chenin Blanc and crafting outstanding whites, while Chile’s lip-smacking and juicy reds made from the once-forgotten El País leave you thirsty for more. One could argue that because New World regions don’t have long traditions to stand by, experimentation by keen winemakers is what’s prompting this outburst of excitement. It’s not completely false. But it does not mean that the Old World is incapable of fresh blood. To the contrary.
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A series of events, including economic and politic struggles, left producers in some historic lands with very little means to make quality wine or export it. Moreover, the challenge of breaking through traditions and old habits was slowing down progress. To the consumer’s delight, many long-established areas are now burgeoning with compelling juice, creating a new territory for drinkers to explore. Old is becoming new again. In the last year, I made a point of visiting many of these hidden treasures. What follows are six producers who left me enamoured and filled with respect for the outstanding work they are doing. Through them, I discovered a whole new world of possibilities. This list is a great place to get cozy and warm up until summer sets in.
NOT-SO-ANCIENT GREECE
A new generation of eager winemakers are showing off with brio the wealth of their indigenous grapes. I just can’t get enough of it and I keep on going back, literally. Here are two fantastic producers that are among the leaders of this movement.
TETRAMYTHOS
I think of Panayiotis Papagiannopoulos as the Frank Zappa of Greece. Not only because his face reminds me slightly of him, but also because of his incredible talent. He has truly mastered his art and, without a doubt, Papagiannopoulos is one of the most talented winemakers in the country. Often, when you visit a producer and try a long list of wines, you have favourites while some disappoint you. That’s normal. However, I have done multiple tastings at Tetramythos over the last few years, and every time I was astonished by the consistency and the quality. Located in the Peloponnese in the PDO of Patras, the estate sits at high altitude between ocean and mountains. Standing in the vineyards surrounded by beautiful, old, non-irrigated vines that are planted up to 1,000 metres, one can’t help to feel the magic. The birds are chanting, the flowers are colourful and that deep blue sea on the horizon leaves you mesmerized. There is a palpable energy stemming from the biodiversity and health of the land, thanks to a family with high respect for the environment and who farm organically. While you are absorbing the awe-inspiring surroundings, once in a while, you can feel the breeze from the ocean provide a small break from the scorching hot summer days. Welcome to paradise.
BLACK OF KALAVRYTA 2017, ACHAIA PGI ($20)
The combination of organic farming and clean, natural winemaking produces wines that express with authenticity the place where the grapes come from. The wines are just as magical as the people behind the label and the real work they do to preserve indigenous grapes. This is currently the only 100% Black of Kalavryta made in Greece. A lack of demand in the domestic market saw many producers pull out this interesting grape. Fifteen years ago, the team at Tetramythos revived it. Generous notes of red cherries, red plum and raspberries with crunchy tannins and juicy acidity recall some of the lighter reds from Sicily. Chill slightly and serve with roasted pork or grilled tuna.
THYMIOPOULOS
Apostolos Thymiopoulos can’t stand still. His brain is going a hundred miles an hour. Truly, I have rarely seen someone with that much energy. Not surprisingly, you find this vitality in his wine. Thymiopoulos is one of the fantastic members of the younger generation making sure the world is paying attention to the greatness of Xinomavro grown on the hills of Naoussa in Macedonia. His biodynamic approach, with minimal pruning in the vineyards and very little handling in the winery, contributes to the purity and generous expression of his wines. If you see his labels on the shelf, grab them. They haunt the soul and offer great value for money. XINOMAVRO TERRE ET CIEL 2016, NAOUSSA AOP ($35)
When you taste Terre et Ciel, it’s easy to understand why Xinomavro is often compared to Nebbiolo. Concentrated MARCH/APRIL 2019 11
CHRISTOPH WACHTER WIESLER
savoury notes of liquorice, dark cherries, strawberries and plum are supported by robust tannins and mouth-watering acidity. A natural with grilled or roasted lamb. Delicious to drink now if you open it a few hours ahead of time but will continue to evolve over the next 10 years. Good for the soul.
THE HEIGHTS OF BAGA WITH FILIPA PATO
Amongst the wealth of indigenous grapes being embraced in Portugal over the last couple of decades, Baga is without a doubt my favourite child. Luís Pato was probably the first one to truly advocate for this grape and show its virtue. His wines are stunning, but I do believe that his daughter Filipa is taking it to the next level. Behind her gorgeous wines are bush vines that are up to 130 years old, including some that are pre-Phylloxera, grown according to biodynamic principles. Baga, which is also often compared to Nebbiolo, can be brutish with excessive and harsh tannins. But not under the hand of Filipa. She is proving that in addition to being profound, with an irresistible aromatic profile, Baga can be elegant and display finesse. Her wines can be hard to find, but they’re worth the effort to seek out. 12 MARCH/APRIL 2019
NOSSA CALCÁRIO BAGA 2015, BAIRRADA DOC ($40)
Made from a single vineyard, this wine particularly stood out when I visited the winery. Elegant with disarming aromas of red cherries and red liquorice with a hint of balsamic and surprisingly silky tannins, if grippy. Only 4,310 bottles produced. If you can find it, buy it.
GRENACHE FROM THE SOUTHERN RHÔNE
What could be so new in this long established and highly regarded part of France? I would say a wave of producers that are making Grenache easy to drink. A challenging task, since it can easily become a caricature of itself and be rich, heavy and clunky. Yes, the highly regarded Château Rayas has for a long time displayed the greatness of Grenache. But how often can one splurge and buy it? Let alone if you can find it. When it comes to affordable wines, Stéphane Vedeau is probably responsible for helping me fall in love with this grape again. His sensitivity and constant search for elegance and balance result in astonishing wines that over-deliver for their price point. You can taste his crafts under both La Ferme du Mont and Clos Bellane labels.
CLOS BELLANE 2016, CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE VILLAGES VALRÉAS AOC ($25)
Stéphane Vedeau bought his 48-hectare clos in Valréas in 2010. The northern location and vines planted at an altitude of 400 metres allow Vedeau to pick later than many other Southern Rhône producers. Since his very first vintage, he keeps on demonstrating that Grenache and grace can go together. This Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Grenache is supported by Syrah. A profound red with depth and complexity, brilliantly crafted by an incredibly talented winemaker. Merci, Vedeau.
ODE TO TORRES
Miguel Torres is a living example that innovation can be constant, even in traditional areas. His work after his studies in Dijon in 1959 led to the introduction of international grapes to the Penedès region and his introduction of stainless steel and temperature control had a major impact in Spain. The last time I saw Torres, it was to conduct an interview on the work he is doing in regards to climate change. Over coffee after his morning yoga session, he explained that he wanted to be a leader and inspire others. So far, he has invested 12 million euros in that field. ALTÓS IBÉRICOS 2015, RIOJA CRIANZA DOCA ($25)
Made from Tempranillo coming from the high-altitude village of Labastida in Rioja Alavesa, one of the most highly regarded sites in Rioja. Lush fruit — red plum and dark cherries — is well balanced by bright acidity and firm tannins. The vanilla coming from the oak is well integrated. A highly appropriate choice for taking time to reflect on the steps we can all take to save the earth.
BLAUFRÄNKISCH FROM BURGENLAND, AUSTRIA
In Germany, they call it Lemberger and in Hungary, it’s Kékfrankos. In Austria, where it’s going through a big revival, it’s known
FILIPA PATO
as Blaufränkisch. Christoph Wachter Wiesler of Wachter-Wiesler explains that, for the longest time, farmers were making mediocre wines that were mostly consumed by people from neighbouring countries who were coming over for the weekend to party. But thanks to the dynamism of a handful of great producers, the grape is finally getting the dignity it deserves. And Wachter-Wiesler is leading the way. WACHTER-WIESLER DEUSCH-SCHÜTZENER BLAUFRÄNKISCH RIED RATSCHEN 2015, EISENBERG DAC ($25)
There is something about Blaufränkisch that reminds me of Barbera in Piedmont. This is the case here. The vines are planted on sandy soil and pebbles, which, according to Christoph, contributes to the finesse of Ried Ratschen. Polished savoury tannins with aromas of red cherries, red plum, vanilla and sweet mushrooms with a hint of truffles. Slightly reductive. This wine is elegant and very well made, but needs time to show its full potential. Wait 5 to 7 years, if you can. × MARCH/APRIL 2019 13
BOJO IS BACK! by Evan Saviolidis
9 exciting reasons why you should know the holy land of Gamay Noir! Six years ago, my first trip to Beaujolais was a cold, damp and wet experience. The dreary weather also echoed the state of vinous affairs of that period. Why? Well, after many years of negative reviews, mostly due to over-cropped, lacklustre Nouveau wines and subsequent poor sales, a vine-pullout scheme had been initiated in the early 2000s. This decreased vineyards from 21,000 hectares to 17,000. Granted, the 4,000 ha that was grubbed up comprised the inferior flatlands where much Nouveau had been made. But, as we have seen, it takes one bad apple to ruin it for others. Premium Beaujolais, Crus, et al. also experienced consumer backlash, as they were lumped together perception-wise. Since then, things have taken a 180-degree turn, and the sunshine has broken through. Here are 10 reasons why you should take a serious look at what is happening within this charming part of French paysage. 14 MARCH/APRIL 2019
THE YOUNG GUNS
Even though 18 percent of the producers in Bojo are under the age of 40, when you add in the 40- to 50-year-old demographic, you include 45 percent of all producers. This share will continue to increase. With la Jeunesse comes an openness to new ideas and techniques, many learned from abroad, and not based on how their father or their father’s father did it. This is a good thing!
THE INVESTMENT FROM ELSEWHERE
When I say elsewhere, I am primarily referencing the well-to-do producers from Northern Burgundy. In recent years, they have looked to the south in search of cheaper land. With them, they brought the financial means to modernize vineyards and vinification techniques, thus helping to elevate quality.
DOMAINE BOTTLING
With little-to-no profitability from selling grapes to larger companies, smaller producers are now opting to produce and bottle their own top juice and sell it to markets that can afford to pay a higher premium. Markets here usually means Paris, Lyon or international markets.
EXPORT
Inter Beaujolais, the governing body of the region, has concentrated on six main markets. These countries have all shown they appreciate a great Bojo and are willing to pay a little extra for something that’s top notch. The markets are the United States, Canada, England, China, Japan and Belgium.
SHRINKAGE, WHITE BEAUJOLAIS AND BUBBLES
Since my previous visit, the red Beaujolais terrain had shrunk by another 2,000 hectares and now hovers at around 15,000 ha. Lands that were unprofitable for red production were grubbed up and converted to Chardonnay, which is easier to grow and can afford a higher yield without sacrificing quality. From this fruit comes both dry and sparkling renditions, which are labelled as Beaujolais Blanc and Crémant de Bourgogne, respectively, helping to round out the Beaujolais portfolio.
THE NEXT GENERATION AND BEAUJONOMIE
Last year, Inter Beaujolais instituted a new marketing offensive to help consumers better understand what they are purchasing via the creation of a three-tiered categorization system. BEAUJOLAIS DE FÊTE: This category includes the famous wines that are released every third Thursday in November. Essentially, drink-up wines. BEAUJOLAIS DE CHARACTÈRE: This workhorse category accounts for the most significant production and offers the best value. These are the wines we see primarily in shops, restaurants and wine bars. The leaders of the pack here are the Crus. BEAUJOLAIS D’EXCEPTION: Simply put, the best of the best. Terroir and small-lot wines, which match up against the best France has to offer. It is also a category that will only increase as producers gravitate upwards. Food and wine have always been part of Beaujolais culture and shared with family and friends. Beaujonomie is a project that seeks to revisit and promote the concept of regional/classic food-and-wine pairing amongst groups. The project, which was launched in the homeland last year, is slated for an international rollout in 2019.
A QUALITY QUARTET
While in the region, I had the chance to taste wines from the 2015 to 2018 vintages, which we will see in the Canadian market. All are great, but with a marked difference. Here are my impressions. 2015: A hot year, which produced opulent and ripe wines with lower acids. This is a vintage that will please everyone. Ready to drink. 2016: Lower yields due to hail. Some of the vineyards in Fleurie, Morgon and Chiroubles were decimated completely. Stylistically, the wines are ripe, but not overtly so like 2015. A year with classic structure and balance. Drink or hold. 2017: Extreme hail, even worse than 2016. Microscopic yields all over meant little wine was produced. Look towards the Crus as they are top. Concentrated and crunchy is the best way to describe these perfect food wines. Hold. 2018: What mother nature took away in the previous two vintages, she gave back in 2018. No hail and a warm, nearperfect growing season. Tank samples show dark colours, soaring aromas, ripeness and balance. Should be top-notch juice when released.
TERROIR CHARTED
Between 2009 and 2018, Inter Beaujolais undertook an ambitious project to analyze and better understand the diversity of soils. To this end, 18,000 hectares were examined via 15,000 bored holes and close to 1,000 trenches — from the flatlands to the Crus — with the goal of increasing quality. More than 70 different soil types were confirmed. It is accepted that the finest wines come from the Northern Crus, which possess pink granite and/or blue stones. That said, the study debunked certain myths, like the southern flatlands not having the same quality punch because there were no pink or blue stones, which turned out to be false. It also proved that the Cru of St-Amour could indeed produce punchy wines, depending on location. It’s also worth mentioning that a famed producer helped perpetuate this myth with its mass-produced, soft style of St-Amour, which became very popular on Valentine’s Day.
THE 11TH CRU?
Lantignié is a village of 360 hectares of vines just to the west of Morgon. Ninety percent of the soils are either pink granite or blue stones. The ambitious growers of the area have already filed an ambitious plan with the powers-that-be to become the 11th Cru of Beaujolais. If all goes well, certification will arrive in 2023. Until then, look for Beaujolais-Lantignié on the labels as your indicator of quality. × MARCH/APRIL 2019 15
THROUGH NEW EYES
There was a time when blind wine tasting was easy. Yes, it was in a previous century, but I think we can all agree that those were simpler times.
by Konrad Ejbich
Wine hobbyists gathered occasionally to taste classified Bordeaux, great Burgundies, top Rhône vineyards, as well as older bottlings from Mosel and Alsace. I vaguely remember, sometime in the midto-late ’70s, attending a tasting of American Cabernet Sauvignon. It was a curiosity; I was expecting to taste an ingredient rather than a finished product. The wines were bold and sweet, rich to the point of seeming mucoid to our “seasoned” palates. I had no idea having a seasoned palate meant that I liked Old World wines. The term, along with New World, had yet to be coined. Robert M. Parker Jr. was still a few years away from becoming a thing. These days, some roles have reversed, with European producers making powerful, fruity reds while Yanks, Aussies and Canucks use newfound restraint to make subtle, balanced, complex and long-lived wines that grow and blossom with a decade or more of cellaring. So, for fun, I asked some folks in the Canadian industry to answer a couple of simple questions: “What does ‘Old World’ mean to you?” and, “Which of your wines fulfills those ideals?” Here are their answers:
AMÉLIE BOURY, WINEMAKER CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES ESTATE WINERY, ST DAVID’S, ONTARIO
What does “Old World” mean to you?
“Old World” resonates from countries where winemaking with vitis vinifera originated. Wines taste lighter and less fruity; having less alcohol and more acidity. 16 MARCH/APRIL 2019
AMÉLIE BOURY
Which of your wines fulfills those ideals?
Pinot Noir is definitely the Old World grape par excellence! Château des Charmes Pinot Noir, Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard ($39) is a lighter style of wine, racy, terroir-driven, earthy, with elegant tannins and a hint of black cherries.
PHILIP DOWELL, GENERAL MANAGER & WINEMAKER ANGELS GATE ESTATE WINERY, BEAMSVILLE, ONTARIO
What does “Old World” mean to you?
This is a classic question when playing wine options, Old World or New World. In this context, you are asking, is this wine European or not? European wines usually would be from century-old winemaking regions, which over the course
of that period have developed traditional vinicultural and winemaking practices. The New World, however, does not have such traditions, which usually sets it apart. What really sets the New World wine apart is the technology employed in the vineyards and wineries, which enables wine production in non-traditional winegrowing regions. Which of your wines fulfills those ideals?
When choosing a wine, which I consider fulfills an Old World style, it would be one that has low technological input and something that would have been made using traditional practices going back centuries. One such wine is the Angels Five ($50), which started its life as five varieties over five vintages and matured
in large old vats. A portion is siphoned off, bottled by hand and then topped up with the new vintage, creating a multi-vintage wine going back decades.
J-L GROUX, WINEMAKER STRATUS VINEYARDS, NIAGARAON-THE-LAKE, ONTARIO
What does “Old World” mean to you?
Well, to me, being French, it speaks to the European way of making wine — traditional, classical, an expression of the land; the priority/emphasis of place over varietal. Which of your wines fulfills those ideals?
Stratus Red ($48) is an embodiment of one single vineyard and the diversity within the best profile of a particular vintage, assembled from tasting the right balance between multiple wines. Age-worthy, delightful and contributing to a lineage of the land.
JOHN HOWARD, MEGALOMANIAC PROPRIETOR JOHN HOWARD WINES OF DISTINCTION, VINELAND, ONTARIO
What does “Old World” mean to you?
Personally, I have found people in the Old World wine trade to be fascinated, perplexed and motivated to engagement. Fascinated: certainly. I purchased enough grapevines over the years from Europe to plant 400 acres, generally tenfold what most Europeans might expect to own after 10 generations. Perplexed: they can’t figure out why Canada is now one of the largest consumers of wine per capita in the world — our trajectory in consumption is diametrically opposed to France’s trend. Engagement: they’re better off if they don’t desire Asia to be a singular market in the future. What would you choose between noodles and tourtière? Which of your wines fulfills those ideals?
If you want to execute “the ultimate kick on the arse” for Europeans, pour them Sébastien Jacquey’s Megalomaniac Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($60). It doesn’t taste like you stirred it with a hockey stick before serving and is demonstrative of Old World elegance times many generations.
HEIDI NOBLE
HEIDI NOBLE, PROPRIETRESS & WINEMAKER JOIEFARM ESTATE WINERY, NARAMATA, BC
What does “Old World” mean to you?
Old World is a very important part of my winemaking philosophy. As both a classically trained French chef and an accredited sommelier with classical wine training, Old World wisdom and rules have very much informed my approach as a self-taught winemaker. I have always thought it was important to learn the rules before you break the rules, in particular as a young winemaker in a very young New World winemaking region. Not having the privilege to be entirely land-based when starting JoieFarm, I worked with a lot of con-
tract-grown fruit and relied on blending as a way to achieve consistency and balance, not being in full control over the exact quality and specifications of my fruit supply. This reliance on blending (a very Old World concept, as very few winemaking regions in Europe, especially France, are identified as single-variety wines) was an incredible way to achieve natural balance in wines. Which of your wines fulfills those ideals?
I think our JoieFarm PTG ($26) is a classic Passe-Tout-Grains and an excellent example of an Old World Burgundian country wine that exemplifies this kind of natural balance. A Passe-Tout-Grains is typically a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay MARCH/APRIL 2019 17
Which of your wines fulfills those ideals?
Moon Curser Vineyards Dolcetto ($25). Originally from Piedmont, Dolcetto is traditionally made without any oak influence and our Osoyoos East Bench interpretation follows suit in order to let the fruity, yet surprisingly complex varietal expression lead. Dry, with the characteristic bitter finish of almonds, this delicious wine defies easy classification and invites further exploration.
J-L GROUX
and highlights the best assets and charms of both varieties, with upfront, fresh, cherry fruit of Pinot Noir being naturally balanced by the spice and earthiness of Gamay. I think there is so much wisdom in these Old World blending techniques and classic regional wines that are hundreds of years old. I may have hung my winemaking reputation (and last name!) on replicating Old World country wines, such as Edelzwicker (A Noble Blend) or Passe-Tout-Grains (PTG), but I certainly did not make up these wines!
BILL REDELMEIER, PROPRIETOR SOUTHBROOK VINEYARDS, NIAGARAON-THE-LAKE, ONTARIO
What does “Old World” mean to you?
The great Old World regions - Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne and the Rheingau were all on the edge climatically. Old World means wines with high acidity, often high tannin and “breed,” usually pairing well with, but not overpowering, food. Which of your wines fulfills those ideals?
Southbrook Poetica Red ($70) because it is so delicious now and will be for another 10 years. It shows what Ontario is capable of and we still have some left! Our 2002 vintage beat Château Margaux in Larry Patterson’s tasting. 18 MARCH/APRIL 2019
MORAY TAWSE, PROPRIETOR TAWSE WINERY, VINELAND & REDSTONE WINERY, BEAMSVILLE, ONTARIO
What does “Old World” mean to you?
To me, Old World wines represent a time when growing conditions were cooler, and so the wine always had a great balance of acidity, freshness and often a touch of green woodiness but in a pleasant way. Alcohols were lower so the wines were more food-friendly. Which of your wines fulfills those ideals?
Tawse Winery Cabernet Franc, David’s Block ($50). Great freshness with a balance of acidity and ripe but not overripe flavours. It’s what we strive for in all our wines.
BEATA TOLLEY, PROPRIETOR MOONCURSER ESTATE WINERY, OSOYOOS, BC
What does “Old World” mean to you?
An ideal Old World wine is a pure expression of terroir, with a balance of tannin, fruit and acid untainted by excessive manipulation or undue oak influence. It’s frequently at the earthy and savoury end of the flavour spectrum: complex, intriguing and downright irresistible. Centuries of practice make perfect, in other words!
ANTHONY VON MANDL, FOUNDER & CHAIRMAN MARK ANTHONY GROUP, VANCOUVER, BX & MISSION HILL FAMILY ESTATE WINERY, WESTBANK, BC
What does “Old World” mean to you?
“Old World” in wine is about conveying timeless elegance in a bottle. It’s about being able to make wines that capture a moment in time and share a story that is truly special — it’s not how you are noticed today, but how you will be remembered tomorrow. Which of your wines fulfills those ideals?
Mission Hill Family Estate Oculus ($135) is a wine that has always been about sharing a story — one that could only come from the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia. First produced in 1996, we have relentlessly pursued the quest of producing a remarkable, complex but elegant wine made from our own vineyards, one that could stand on the world stage and herald the potential of what great winemaking can be in this region. In Oculus, we are uncompromising in making an extraordinary wine, in a truly incredible place with a terroir and microclimates you can find nowhere else, creating a wine that captures the elegance that is uniquely Okanagan and Canadian. ×
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, NEGRONI! by Christine Sismondo
Like almost all cocktail origin stories, the details are slightly hazy and the facts are under some dispute, but most agree that the Negroni is celebrating a milestone this year — turning 100 years old.
The most commonly accepted origin story of this wildly popular aperitivo cocktail is that it was invented in 1919, at Caffé Casoni, in the Piazza Santa Trinita area of Florence. It was a combined effort by bartender Fosco Scarselli and Camillo Negroni, a patron who may or may not have been a Count, but definitely introduced himself as such. “Count” Negroni, the story goes, had asked Scarselli to spike his Milano Torino (the concoction of Campari, sweet vermouth and soda that we now call the Americano) with a healthy dose of gin. A star was born. In Italy, that is. It would take nearly 30 years for the drink to make its way to the United States — after Orson Welles, filming in Rome, discovered it and spread the word with his famous quote about the drink: “The bitters are excellent for your liver, the gin is bad for you. They balance each other.” The legendary perfect balance of the Negroni is part of the reason for its success. Much of the rest has to do with the fact that it’s easy to make, easy to remember and, for bar patrons, the perfect “call drink” — one that you can order without even looking at a menu and expect every bar to be able to make.
The Negroni became an important ambassador for Campari, an esoteric-tasting spirit that was far from being a natural fit with North American palates. In addition, the spirit had support from the Campari Soda, as well as its lower-octane cousin, the Americano — the first cocktail James Bond ever ordered (in Ian Fleming’s 1953 book Casino Royale). The Negroni did such a great job popularizing Campari, in fact, that Gruppo Campari used a similar approach to market Aperol, namely, the eponymous Spritz that is now ubiquitous in every Italian restaurant in Canada. These are likely just the harbingers of obscure Italian spirits, since just about every producer and craft cocktail bartender with a taste for bitter and esoteric flavours is working on inventing modern classic cocktails to help build enthusiasm and name recognition for a second wave of amaro, grappa and traditional liqueurs. Get ready for Apero Craze 2.0 — coming to a bar near you. Why? Some of it is driven by general enthusiasm for the versatile and complex flavour profile of a lot of spirits. Some, though, MARCH/APRIL 2019 19
comes from the people designing the bar program at the many new Italian restaurants, which are having a moment in Canada. While it’s great to have a little name recognition for the Negroni and Aperol Spritz, most bartenders at Italian restaurants wish the depth of knowledge went a little deeper still, so they could steer people away from the staples and get people interested in a wider range of spirits from the Bel paese. Campari and Aperol are northern Italian aperitivos, after all, and as such, not necessarily a perfect fit for the many new restaurants offering forays into Roman and southern Italian cuisine. Oliver Stern, for example, the beverage manager of Liberty Group, which includes Toronto’s Don Alfonso 1890 — the sister restaurant of the original, two-Michelin-starred Don Alfonso near Sorrento — would love to be able to offer the drinks that would traditionally be served in Italy before and after meals. “Having been to that part of Italy and seeing how the lemons are grown up on those hills and smelling the fresh zest as they peel them to make the limoncello, I find I can have a sip of it here in Canada and it’ll just bring me right back to the Amalfi coast,” says Stern. “But it’s still a tough sell in Toronto.” Stern blames the lack of enthusiasm on the sub-standard, overly-sweet limoncellos that generally make it to Canada, a problem that, incidentally, extends to a general mistrust of grappa, which he’d like to see more people enjoying after dinner. He understands people’s hesitation, though, admitting that he hadn’t really grasped the beauty of grappa until relatively recently — helped along by a visit to the Nardini distillery in Bassano del Grappa. Now, he trains staff on the category, so they can offer it with confidence to every table after dinner and help guests understand the difference between quality grappa and the lesser expressions. “The people at Nardini showed us how to give it a little test by rubbing it between your fingers and checking to see if there’s an oily quality, which comes from the tails (as opposed to the heart of the spirit, the good ethanol alcohol),” explains Stern. “I think a lot of people have had a bad grappa experience, sort of like that whole bad tequila experience thing that keeps people from drinking tequila.” TO HELP PATRONS GET OVER THEIR FEARS, STERN HAS CONCOCTED A GRAPPA OLD FASHIONED — a pretty savvy
move given that Toronto is currently experiencing peak Old Fashioned, with bartenders reporting that this classic whisky cocktail is ordered more than vodka soda, even in clubland. Stern is certain the distillers of fine grappa wouldn’t mind, believing that even Old World producers are starting to come around to North American cocktail culture as a way to promote exports. “Even more so than the Negroni, I think it was how most people saw the Aperol Spritz and how it drove that spirit from a little-known product to, like, the biggest thing,” Stern says. “Now I feel like all these companies are wanting to jump into cocktails, whereas 10 years ago, especially in the Italian market, they would never think of wanting their product mixed.” Of course, Aperol is a relatively sweet and lightly bittered, orange-forward aperitivo, which is a far less challenging flavour profile to the North American palate than grappa or even some of the more medicinal-tasting digestivos, which Stern also encourages guests to try alongside (or instead of ) dessert. People’s will20 MARCH/APRIL 2019
ingness to dive into amaro often depends on how familiar they are with craft cocktail bars, given that they hold an exalted place in modern mixology. First, they came in as modifiers; now, they are often used as a base or drunk all on their own. “I will bet Toronto will have an Amaro bar like New York does at some point,” says Michele Maffei of Noce, an Italian restaurant in the city’s Trinity-Bellwoods area. “If done properly, it would work here, too, if it had a big selection and was done in a way that would attract industry people.” Maffei’s New York reference here is to Amor y Amargo, an East Village bar specializing in elegant bitter cocktails that, since it was established in 2011, has had a big role in promoting Italian spirits to North American bartenders. Maffei, who grew up in Italy and moved here 20 years ago, would love to see more opportunities for a serious treatment of the spirits of his old home, not only because they pair well with the food, but also because, having grown up with them, he understands how to work with them. He’s obviously optimistic, in part, because of the sea change he’s already witnessed, having spent the last seven years behind the wood in different Toronto Italian restaurants. When Maffri began, even relatively well-marketed spirits like Amaro Lucano, Liquore Strega and Amaro Montenegro were barely known. These days, though, bartenders are praising more obscure, wild herbal products, such as Distilleria Varnelli’s Sibilla and dell’Erborista and are doing so many shots of Fernet-Branca, it’s practically a cliché. That recognition is still niche, however, and Maffei still asks his servers to warn patrons of the esoteric flavour profile of drinks such as his La Strega Cubana (“The Cuban Witch,” a cocktail made with Fernet, Liquore Strega, rum, egg white, lemon juice and Angostura bitters), since Strega is hyper-herbal, reminiscent of a green chartreuse and Fernet has a minty, earthy, bitter flavour that is definitely what you’d call an acquired taste. “Fernet became known as the ‘bartender’s handshake’,” Maffei says. “The people saw that bartenders drink Fernet so they all said to themselves, ‘If bartenders drink it, it must be good.’ But a lot of people who tried for the first time didn’t really like the taste of it.” That’s some of the secret to its success, in fact. Shooting back Fernet-Branca (which cocktail bartenders started doing about a decade ago) is proof that you’re both in-the-know and have graduated past sugary cocktails and into the territory of extremes — sort of like bragging about how high you can go on the Scoville scale. As Fernet fades, a possibly even cooler amaro is waiting in the wings — Ferro China Baliva, a dark, opaque, intensely bitter, anti-malarial health tonic with added iron. Currently only available in Alberta, this former health tonic — given to children at breakfast, as per Roman doctor Ernesto Baliva’s advice — is starting to gain traction among cocktail bartenders dreaming up Iron Man-themed drinks. The simultaneously classic and impossibly hyper-masculine kitsch label, which depicts a gladiator stepping on a lion’s head, can only help. It might even inspire a few tattoos. Would James Bond drink it? Is it likely to show up in the Spritz section of brunch menus? Probably not any time soon. However, while it took decades for the first Italian invasion to stealthily introduce Campari and Aperol to the American market, quite frankly, the next wave of Italian spirits seems to be coming down the pipes a lot faster than that. ×
MICHELE MAFFEI
DON ALFONSO 1890
MARCH/APRIL 2019 21
22 MARCH/APRIL 2019
GETTING WARMER By Nancy Johnson
There is nothing more romantic than Valentine’s Day. Now that it’s come and gone, that’s no reason to stop being romantic. There are many different legends associated with the origins of Valentine’s Day, from acts of kindness performed by a variety of Christian saints to the belief that spring is a time to renew our love for each other. So as the sun starts to warm the chill from your hands, it’s time to plan a romantic evening with your other half, or a loving dinner with your very special family. Every day is a chance to say “Be my Valentine” with food, laughter and kindness. Light candles, clink wine glasses, enjoy the moment.
EGGPLANT STEAKS WITH OLIVE, CUCUMBER AND FETA SALAD
FILET MIGNON WITH MUSHROOMS
SERVES 4
SERVES 4
For those who prefer vegetarian fare, eggplant is a noble substitute for beef and just as romantic. Here, eggplant steaks are paired with a refreshing cucumber and feta salad, featuring fresh vegetables readily available and very tasty in the winter.
2 1/4 1 1
eggplants, cut into 1-inch slices cup olive oil tsp lemon zest tbsp fresh thyme leaves, minced
OLIVE, CUCUMBER AND FETA SALAD
1 1/4 1 1 1/2 1 2 3
cup pitted Kalamata olives, chopped cup red onion, minced English cucumber, peeled and diced cup cherry or grape tomatoes, halved cup feta cheese, crumbled tbsp flat leaf parsley, minced tbsp fresh lemon juice tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1. Preheat broiler. 2. Place eggplant slices on a baking sheet. In a medium bowl, whisk together olive oil, lemon zest and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Pour overtop eggplant. Cook eggplant under broiler, about 3 minutes per side, or until softened and cooked through. 3. In a separate bowl, mix olives, onion, cucumber, tomatoes, feta cheese, parsley, lemon juice and oil. Divide eggplant and salad among 4 plates. Season with salt and pepper. MATCH: Try a Zinfandel or Primitivo with this dish.
For me, romance begins with filet mignon, the most tender (and most expensive) cut of beef. Filet mignon doesn’t need much — just salt, pepper and some sautéed mushrooms. Occasionally, I like a Béarnaise sauce, and you can certainly add one here. Use any type of mushrooms you’d like — button, cremini, shiitake, portobello, oyster or a wild combination.
4 filet mignons, 2 inches thick 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided 2 cups mixed mushrooms, sliced 1 tbsp butter 4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1. Bring filets to room temperature. Season with salt and pepper. In a large skillet, heat 1 tbsp oil over medium heat. 2. Sear filets, cooking about 5 to 7 minutes per side, or until an instant-read thermometer registers 130˚F for medium rare. 3. In a separate skillet, melt butter and 1 tbsp oil over medium heat. Add mushrooms and sauté until softened, about 4 minutes per side. Add garlic and sauté 1 minute longer. Serve over filet mignons. MATCH: Uncork a good Bordeaux. Salut. MARCH/APRIL 2019 23
LAMB CHOPS WITH SHALLOT AND MUSTARD SAUCE SERVES 4
Lamb feels like a special occasion. And while I love lamb with mint sauce, here lamb chops are served with a savoury sauce featuring shallots and the most elegant of mustards – Dijon. This is excellent company fare for a special occasion.
1/2 4 2 4 1/4 2 1
tsp dried thyme leaves centre-cut lamb chops, about 1 1/2 inches thick tbsp extra virgin olive oil large shallots, peeled and chopped cup chicken broth tbsp Worcestershire sauce tbsp Dijon mustard
1. Season lamb chops with thyme, salt and pepper. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add lamb chops and cook 4 minutes per side. Remove chops from skillet and set aside. 2. In same skillet, over medium heat, add shallots. Cook for around 3 minutes, or until softened, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add broth, Worcestershire sauce and mustard. Simmer for 4 minutes, or until sauce thickens, stirring occasionally. 3. Return lamb chops to skillet. Cook for 3 minutes more, or until thermometer registers 145˚F for medium-well done. Serve with glazed carrots and baked potatoes. MATCH: Châteauneuf-du-Pape is my favourite with lamb. However, when mustard is involved, I like to pour a Chablis. 24 MARCH/APRIL 2019
BREADED PORK CUTLET WITH BUTTERMILK DILL SAUCE SERVES 4
EASY BAKED ITALIAN CHICKEN SERVES 4
If a no-fuss dinner is your idea of the perfect Valentine’s Day, this is the dish for you. Baked in foil, this flavourful chicken can be paired with mashed potatoes and roasted garlicky green beans.
4 boneless, skinless chicken breast filets 1/4 cup zesty Italian salad dressing 4 thick tomato slices, divided 4 fresh basil leaves, divided
1. Preheat oven to 450˚F. 2. Cut 4 sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil into 12 x 12 inch pieces. Place 1 chicken breast filet in the centre of each piece. Top each filet with 1 tbsp Italian salad dressing, 1 tomato slice and 1 basil leaf. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Wrap each packet, allowing some space for heat circulation. Place on a baking sheet. 4. Bake for 25 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer registers 165˚F. MATCH: Excellent with a Beaujolais-Villages.
To keep the breading from falling off during cooking, refrigerate the breaded cutlets for about an hour. You can substitute thin chicken or veal cutlets in this dish, adjusting cooking times accordingly. The secret to excellent results is ensuring the cutlets are all pounded to the same thickness.
4 boneless pork loin chops, trimmed 1/2 cup sour cream 2 tbsp buttermilk 1 tbsp fresh dill, chopped 1/4 cup flour 1/4 cup milk 1 tsp grainy mustard 1 egg, beaten 3/4 cup dry breadcrumbs 1/2 tsp dried parsley 1/4 tsp garlic powder 1/4 tsp paprika 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp butter
1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. 2. Pound pork into 1/4-inch thick cutlets. Set aside. 3. In a bowl, make Buttermilk Dill Sauce by combining sour cream, buttermilk, dill, salt and pepper. Set sauce aside. 4. Place flour on a plate. In a bowl, whisk together milk, mustard and egg. Add breadcrumbs, parsley, garlic powder and paprika to a food storage bag. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. 5. Dredge pork in flour. Dip pork into milk mixture. Add cutlets one at a time to the food storage bag and shake to coat. 6. Arrange cutlets on a baking sheet that has been coated with cooking spray. Bake for 10 minutes. Flip cutlets and bake for 10 minutes longer, or until cooked through and ab instant-read thermometer registers 145˚F. Place a dollop of Buttermilk Dill Sauce on top of each cutlet. MATCH: Excellent with a Riesling. ×
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BUYING GUIDE
All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and online wine clubs
SPARKLING MONTBLANC 362 BRUT CAVA NV, SPAIN ($14)
Lemon-peel yellow with ample bubbles. McIntosh apple, caramel and old varnish nose. Rich on the palate, with ripe pineapple, baked apple and a sprinkle of fresh lemon juice but also an appealing slight sweetness. Best now, drink immediately. (RL)* PARÉS BALTÀ BRUT CAVA NV, SPAIN ($19)
An organic wine, it appears pale gold with a munificence of fine bubbles. A medium-intensity nose yields strong yeast aromas along with apples and custard. Light-bodied, it tastes of quince, lemon and lime. Light-tasting and refreshing, this would make a good aperitif. Drink immediately. (RL)* CLETO CHIARLI LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA DEL FONDATORE NV, EMILIA-ROMAGNA, ITALY ($25)
Expressive and well-balanced with raspberry, citrus and herbal notes, bright acidity and a lively mouth-watering finish. Perfect to serve with salumi and ideal with cotechino. (GB) 26 MARCH/APRIL 2019
CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES BRUT, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($26)
Bright, pale straw in colour, this bubbly has an active mousse of tiny bubbles. Its toasty nose of apple with a honeyed note signals a medium-bodied sparkler with a touch of honeyed sweetness mid palate kept in check by fresh acidity that gives commendable length on the palate. (TA) FRANÇOIS CHIDAINE BRUT NATURE MONTLOUIS SUR LOIRE NV, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE ($34)
Beautiful deep gold colour. Rich with lush notes of honey, quince, apricot, chamomile and toast, well balanced by searing acidity. Delicious on its own but shines when served with duck rillettes; the acidity cuts nicely through the fat of the dish. (MB) HENRY OF PELHAM CUVEE CATHARINE BRUT NV, NIAGARA PENINSULA, ONTARIO ($45)
Balanced, sleek and elegant with depth, richness and finesse, aromas and flavours of brioche, apple, citrus, mineral and spice with a crisp and lively finish. (GB) BÉRÊCHE & FILS CAMPANIA REMENSIS MONTAGNE DE REIMS ROSÉ EXTRA BRUT 2013, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($125)
A blend of 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Char-
donnay and 5% red wine. Structure and full body where power and finesse meet. Generous yet precise aromas of red cherries, cranberries, tobacco and brioche supported by light presence of chalky tannins and vibrant acidity. Long, lingering finish. A very complex wine that keeps on changing from sip to sip as it opens up. Best enjoyed with food; smoked salmon would be a dream. (MB)
WHITE $20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA CHABERTON ESTATE GROWN BACCHUS 2017, FRASER VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($17)
A flagship for the original estate, Bacchus was the stalwart variety that kickstarted the winery. From vines now 35 years old, lifted orchard fruits and tropical notes. Vibrant aromas of orchard fruit before juicy layers of citrus and spice through the off-dry close. Excellent value. A must for the dinner table, especially as the months warm up. (TP)
FRANCE CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR 2015 RIESLING SILBERBERG DE RORSCHWIHR, AOC ALSACE ($17)
Clear medium yellow. Lime and other citrus fruits dominate the nose, but one can also smell flowers, tea, honey, even a hint of petrol. Medium-bodied with lime peel again on the palate, in a nice balance of sugar and acidity. A knockout with smoked salmon. Will last and become more interesting for another couple of years. (RL)* GERMANY
light-bodied side, with more lychee flavours accented with some rose petal bitterness. Will last a couple more years. (RL)*
FRANCE CHATEAU LAMOTHE DE HAUX 2017, BORDEAUX AC ($18)
A classic Bordeaux blend of 40% Sémillon, 40% Sauvignon and 20% Muscadelle, this is a lively, aromatic wine showing floral and slightly wild green herbal character with typical grassy green fruit freshness. It is not as exuberant on the palate but nicely balanced with a smooth agreeable finish. Pair with shellfish, especially oysters on the half shell. (SW) PORTUGAL
DR LOOSEN RIESLING 2017, MOSEL ($15)
This Riesling is one of the best buys in German wines in terms of quality for price. You get a wine that’s bright, pale straw in colour with a minerally, honeyed citrus nose; it’s light-bodied, off-dry and fairly dances on the palate with honeyed apple and citrus flavours. It’s the kind of wine you’d want to sip before dinner or try it with Asian food or lightly curried dishes. (TA) ITALY TERRANERA GRECO 2017, CAMPANIA ($18)
Bright white gold in colour. Spicy, minerally nose of peach with a light floral note. Medium-bodied, dry, lemon and green peach flavours with oak spice. (TA)
CASAL GARCIA DOC VINHO VERDE NV ($14)
The label says it is the number 1 selling Vinho Verde in the world. This classically cheap and cheerful impoverished student wine is deservedly successful and still fun now that I am grown up. Clear pale gold with some fizz. Medium nose of apple, ripe banana, pineapple and a bit of lemon. Light-bodied and low in alcohol at 9.5%, its tart apple and lemon flavours make it a refreshing summer wine or a good accompaniment to cold cuts or pork roasted with sage and garlic. Drink immediately on arrival at home. (RL)*
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
RECOMMENDED
CANADA FRANCE
CANET CHARDONNAY OAK RESERVE 2015, IGP PAYS D’OC ($14)
followed by apple and peach entry on a creamy palate with vanilla emphasis through the solid finish. (TP)
TOWNSHIP 7 GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($25)
Clear medium yellow. Moderate nose of apple, lemon, banana and lots of oak. Light-bodied with lemon custard and more apple flavours and soft acidity, but the fruit is a bit thin, so drink asap. A good choice with a soft mild cheese like Brie. (RL)*
Made with fruit from Naramata and Oliver, with a portion aged in neutral oak. Vibrant rose petal with some orange blossom nose before a floral rose-prominent palate with generous though not viscose mouthfeel before hints of ginger and lingering spice in the finish. Think lightly spiced Asian fare. (TP)
CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR GEWÜRZTRAMINER RESERVE 2015, AOC ALSACE ($17)
TOWNSHIP 7 RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($27)
LA CABOTTE CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES SAUVAGEONNE 2017, RHONE VALLEY ($25)
I love the tension in this 100% Clairette wine despite the full body and oily texture. Delicate notes of orange blossoms, lime zest with pleasant bitterness on the finish. A great partner for grilled halibut or seared scallops. (MB) BOUCHARD PÈRE ET FILS CHARDONNAY 2017, MACON-LUGNY SAINT PIERRE AOC ($26)
Fresh citrus and floral scents give way to rounded citrus and green apple on the palate with refreshingly balanced acidity, a lick of mineral and a touch of hazelnut on the finish. Straightforward but stylish food-friendly wine. (SW) LAMBLIN & FILS CHABLIS 2014, AC PREMIER CRU MONT DE MILIEU ($31)
Clear medium yellow. Unusually, for a Chablis, this was partially oak-fermented and also underwent malolactic fermentation. This treatment shows on the nose in the vanilla custard, sourdough bread and lime aromas, and on the palate in the melon and buttery flavours that come along with apple and lemon-lime. Thankfully, the acidity is still slicing, as one expects from a good Chablis. Could get a higher score if you like oak. (RL)* LAMBLIN & FILS CHABLIS 2015, AC PREMIER CRU FOURCHAUMES ($31)
Clear medium yellow. Restrained nose of apple, lemon, a bit of melon. Light-bodied with bright acidity boosting apple and mandarin orange flavours. Will improve for another couple of years. Good with fresh acidic fruit (Granny Smith apple, quince) and mild creamy cheese. (RL)* GREECE
Clear medium yellow. Decently expressive nose of roses, lychee and peaches, with a bit of herbal greenness. On the
Sourced from celebrated Becker Vineyard on Black Sage Bench. Intense orchard and stone fruit on the nose
× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/
ESTATE ARGYROS ASSYRTIKO 2017, SANTORINI ($25)
Dense with juicy acidity and concentrated aromas of lemon, white grapefruit zest with salty notes and a pleasant bitter MARCH/APRIL 2019 27
BUYING GUIDE finish. A natural with grilled octopus but you might be happily surprised if you serve it with simply prepared grilled lamb brushed with olive oil, rosemary and a splash of lemon juice. (MB)
medium-bodied, beautifully balanced, greengage and honeyed peach flavours – a gorgeous mouthfeel and fresh, citrus finish. A truly magnificent Riesling for spring. (TA)
RECOMMENDED
CHECKMATE KNIGHT’S CHALLENGE CHARDONNAY 2015, SOUTHERN OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($85)
AUSTRALIA ANVERS BRABO RIESLING 2012, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($26)
Loads of lime and petrol but still crisp and lively, a great example of well-aged Aussie Riesling that possesses a tart and focused waxy mouthful of smoky peach, apricot and lime flavours that keep zinging on the long dry finish. The perfect wine with nachos. (GB)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRIA RUDI PICHLER RIESLING ACHLEITEN SMARAGD 2017, WACHAU ($90)
Angular with notes of orange peel, lemon, honey, hot stone and pleasant smoky aromas. The Stravinsky of the Austrian Riesling? Open ahead of time if you drink it now. I myself put some aside to revisit 5 to 8 years from now as it needs time to show all of its subtle nuances. Spectacular. (MB) CANADA MARTIN’S LANE NARAMATA RANCH VINEYARD RIESLING 2014, OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($65)
Bright straw-gold in colour with a lifted nose of grapefruit and peach; light to 28 MARCH/APRIL 2019
Bright pale straw in colour with a savoury of apple with barnyard notes; medium-bodied, dry with a creamy apple flavour rounded out with oak spice and carried on lively acidity. (TA) FRANCE LES TROIS MAINS GRAVES BLANC 2016, BORDEAUX ($78)
A blend of 65% Sauvignon Blanc and 35% Semillon from a single site with limestone subsoils beneath the gravel, clay and sandy soils. Fermented and aged in a single 500 litre barrel, the wine is fresh and elegant, with peach, spice and a zippy minerality. Drinking deliciously now, but will benefit with some time in the cellar. Less than 700 bottles were produced. Definitely a producer to watch. (GB) DOMAINE GEORGES VERNAY LES CHAILLÉES DE L’ENFER CONDRIEU 2016, RHONE VALLEY ($105)
Viognier can quickly become a caricature of itself, but not in the hand of Christine Vernay. In my opinion, she makes some of best in the world thanks to the combination of her talent and the great terroir where her vines are planted. There is beautiful energy in her wine. Delicate and precise where the notes of apricot and white peaches are in symbiosis with the salinity and wet stone. Lobster with butter please. (MB)
LOUIS JADOT PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LA GARENNE 2015, BURGUNDY ($135)
From the ripe and lush aromas on the nose, I was expecting a flabby palate. To the contrary! Like an elegant ballerina, the wine components are perfectly balanced. Notes of nectarine, lemon, hazelnut and butter are just slightly overshadowed by the vanilla flavours but it is just a matter of a year or two until the aromas are in harmony. Impressive mouth-watering acidity despite the hot vintage. Magnificent. Put it in your cellar for 4 to 6 years. (MB) ITALY COFFELE SOAVE CLASSICO CA’ VISCO 2017, VENETO ($40)
A blend of 75% Garganega and 25% Trebbiano di Soave done only in stainless steel from the first producer in Soave Classico to receive organic certification. Aromas and flavours of apple, pear, grapefruit and fresh herbs with clean, mouth-filling texture and bright acidity. Fresh and refreshing. (GB) COFFELE SOAVE CLASSICO ALZARI 2016, VENETO ($45)
100% Garganega, of which 60% of the grapes were fermented immediately upon picking and the remainder dried for 40 days. The nose shows fresh herbs, pear and nuttiness with a richness on the palate finishing with a lingering salinity. A nice match with rich sauces and game birds. (GB) TORRE ROSAZZA FRIULANO FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI 2016, FRIULI ($85/1.5 L)
Lovely and fresh, juicy and mouth-watering with a creamy texture, floral with lots of finesse and flavours of white peach
and apple with great length. A very well constructed, balanced and pretty wine. Tasted from magnum. (GB)
but firm, with ripe plum flavours carried on fresh acidity. It’s a steak wine if ever there was one. (TA) AUSTRALIA
ROSÉ
PIRRAMIMMA PETIT VERDOT 2015, MCLAREN VALE ($20)
BARONNIE DE CANET SYRAH ROSÉ 2015, IGP PAYS D’OC, FRANCE ($13)
Clear coppery-pink, paler than one would expect given the Syrah base. Fairly intense nose of strawberries and raspberries, with a sprinkle of black pepper. Light-bodied, tasting mostly of strawberry, with refreshing acidity. At its best now. Try it with aged hard goat’s cheese or smoked charcuterie. (RL)* SAINT-ROCH VIEILLES VIGNES CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON 2017, ROUSSILLON, FRANCE ($17)
Pale straw in colour, it has a minerally nose of white flowers and lemon zest. It’s medium-bodied, dry, with pear and apple flavours ending on a floral note and a firm finish. This blend of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne has enough flavour to stand up to spicy dishes. (TA) DOMAINE DES NUGUES BEAUJOLAISVILLAGES ROSÉ 2017, BEAUJOLAIS, FRANCE ($18)
Something of a rarity — a rosé from the Beaujolais-Villages appellation. Pale salmon in colour, the nose offers cherry and plum aromas topped with a floral note. It’s medium-light bodied, dry with ripe cherry flavours and a fresh, crisp finish. A versatile and tasty wine that works well with poultry and seafood. (TA)
RED
$20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA ALAMOS SELECCIÓN MALBEC 2015, MENDOZA ($17)
Argentina’s excellent Alamos wines are now distributed by E & J Gallo. Dense purple in colour. It has a cedary, earthy, spicy, plum bouquet with evident vanilla oak notes. It’s medium-bodied, fruity
A rare single varietal take on this lesser-known grape by the ever-idiosyncratic Australians. Opaquely dark crimson with a robust nose of cherry, milk chocolate and violets against a cedar background. Full-bodied with ripe fruit and high alcohol, but fine-grained tannins and adequate acidity provide structure and avoid fruit-bomb territory. Delicious. Gives insight into why the Bordelaise still add this grape to their blends. Will last another year or two. (RL)*
RECOMMENDED FRANCE CHATEAU ROQUEFORT 2015, AOC BORDEAUX ($18)
Clear deep purple-red. Moderate-sized herbal Merlot nose, with a little raspberry and some smoky notes from the oak maturation. On the palate, the tannins are smooth and soft, the acidity a bit high. A simple, workmanlike Bordeaux. Will last another couple of years. (RL)* DOMAINE DE LA BAUME LA JEUNESSE SYRAH 2016, PAYS D’OC IGP ($19)
Offers fleshy ripe dark berry fruit with a pinch of peppery spice. Medium weight on the palate, moderately firm tannins, fairly brisk acidity and a touch of dark chocolate on the finish. (SW)
CANADA CHABERTON VALLEY CAB, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($18)
Predominantly Cabernet Franc (71%) and Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from three Okanagan Valley vineyards, individually fermented and then blended and oak aged. Dark red berry notes up front before a medium to full-bodied, cherry and plum toned palate with hints of spice and anise through the close. Everyday good drinking in a value priced red. (TP) CHILE PRIMUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, MAIPO VALLEY ($20)
Dense purple-ruby in colour with a cedary, blackcurrant nose and a tarry note; medium to full-bodied, rich plum and blackcurrant flavours, firmly structured, ending on ripe tannins. (TA) FRANCE DOMAINE DES COTEAUX DES TRAVERS 2015, AOC RASTEAU ($19)
Clear very deep purple-red. Robust nose of black cherry candy from the Grenache in the blend, with tobacco and other herbs and black pepper spice from the Syrah. The alcohol level speaks loudly, but the cherry fruit and black liquorice flavours manage to hold their ground. This will improve for a couple of years. (RL)*
DOMAINE LA FLORANE À FLEUR DE PAMPRE CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES VISAN 2017, RHONE VALLEY ($20)
Fresh and bright with juicy, crunchy notes of raspberries and wild strawberries with soft tannins. If you think Grenache is tiring, this blend with 10% Syrah might change your mind. Chill slightly and serve with grilled pork or veal. (MB) ITALY PASQUA 2016 DOC VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO ($16)
Clear medium-deep ruby. Moderate nose of dates and prunes with leather, dust and a bit of walnut. Medium-bodied, tasting of ripe green plums and raspberries, with high acidity and rough tannins that need a few more years to mellow. (RL)*
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE SHIRAZ 2016, COONAWARRA ($24)
Barossa Valley is not the only region that produces great Shiraz in Australia. Coonawarra, perhaps better known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, also makes some very tasty Shiraz. Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz 2016 is dense purple in colour with a savoury-herbal blackberry nose lifted with vanilla oak MARCH/APRIL 2019 29
BUYING GUIDE note. It’s medium to full-bodied and dry with savoury, blackberry flavours and herbal notes that fill the palate, finishing on a minty note. (TA) CANADA STAG’S HOLLOW VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2016, OKANAGAN FALLS, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($22)
From southwest facing, gravelly, stony glacial fluvial soils on the home vineyard, Aromas of wild red berries with interesting darker notes before a well structured palate wrapped in bright acidity, layered with mineral and earthy spice notes, quite generous mouthfeel with dark cherry flavours through the finish. Excellent Pinot value. (TP) MOON CURSER SYRAH 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($26)
Sourced from sloping south or west sloping vineyards from east Osoyoos bench. Hand picked, hand sorted, cool fermented in stainless steel, and aged in French and Hungarian mainly neutral barrels. Inky purple in the glass. Aromas of black fruit with meaty, spice, vanilla and tobacco notes before a palate defined by juicy acidity with cassis, anise and black pepper underpinned by a savoury edge through a persistent, spicy and peppery finish. (TP) MISSION HILL RESERVE MERLOT 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($27)
Merlot blended with 10% Cabernet Franc, sourced from prime south valley Osoyoos estate sites. Lifted red and black berry notes upfront, followed by a plush ‘n plummy palate of blackberry, mulberry and vanilla, wrapped in well integrat30 MARCH/APRIL 2019
ed tannins with a slight savoury edge through the lengthy close. (TP) MISSION HILL RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($28)
Sourced from estate-owned vineyards in east Kelowna and Naramata, aged 11 months in French oak. Lifted wild red berry notes with some earthy hints, before a well-rounded palate defined by juicy acidity, a little restrained but well focused with cherry, strawberry and spice notes. A touch of savoury through the close. (TP) CHABERTON RESERVE SYRAH 14, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($29)
Sourced from Saddle Ridge Vineyard in Oliver, Okanagan Valley. Upfront red and black fruit precede a well defined, approachable palate with meaty, gamey notes, a solid savoury centre with well integrated fruit and approachable, supple tannins from well managed new and used French oak, balanced structure with a lengthy end. (TP) MOON CURSER TEMPRANILLO 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($31)
From southwest sloping estate sites on Osoyoos’ east bench, sandy loam and some granite soils. Forward red berry aromas with vanilla and cedar hints before a medium-bodied palate defined by good acidity with dark cherry and anise notes plus a hint of sage and savoury underpinned by chalky tannins through a dry close. (TP) MOON CURSER PETIT VERDOT 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($31)
A flagship for the Okanagan’s most pro-
lific producer of red varieties, grown on the sun-drenched east Osoyoos bench. Garnet near indigo in the glass with black fruit and floral notes upfront over spice tones before a generous, fruit-driven entry with hints of spice and herbaceousness supported by mineral undertones and firm but structured and elegant tannins. Suggest aging up to 10 years. (TP) TOWNSHIP 7 CABERNET FRANC 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($34)
With 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, primarily from Oliver’s from Rock Pocket vineyard. Forward black fruit and mocha notes with some peppery hints before a well-balanced, medium- to full-bodied, plush palate of mulberry, cassis and black cherry, with spicy undertones and well-balanced tannins through the rounded end. (TP) QUAILS’ GATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($35)
Mainly estate grown, with some fruit from Black Sage. Fermented 28 days in stainless steel and aged 18 months in French oak. Forward notes of dark red berries with hints of tea and leather precede a luscious and very approachable palate of spice and dark plum, wrapped in seamless tannins with excellent structure, generous mouthfeel and elegance with some herbal notes through a lengthy end. (TP) FRANCE DOMAINE BILLARD 2015, AOC BOURGOGNE HAUTES-CÔTES DE BEAUNE ($21)
Clear, medium-deep pinkish red. Fairly robust nose of strawberry, raspberry
and violets. Light-bodied and fruity, channeling more raspberry and also cranberry and pomegranate. Tasty and refreshing with salty Bresaola; too light for any strong cheese. Will last another year. (RL)* UNITED STATES SEVEN FALLS CELLARS WAHLUKE SLOPE MERLOT 2015, WASHINGTON STATE ($25)
Deeply scented spicy and earth plum, with spicy plum cake richness in the mouth, rounded tannins, a splash of dark chocolate, a touch of licorice and a suggestion of toffee on the finish. (SW) HAHN ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016, CENTRAL COAST, CALIFORNIA ($26)
Opens with good varietal Cabernet character, showing blackcurrant and dark berry scents together with background smoky tobacco notes. On the palate, generous dark fruit and spice shows some complexity, staying just the right side of jammy ripeness. Finish is harmoniously balanced with a deft touch of oak. (SW)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
dry, richly extracted sweet black cherry flavours with a dark chocolate finish. Evident but ripe tannins. (TA) QUAILS’ GATE THE BOSWELL SYRAH 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($70)
Grown mainly in the home estate West Kelowna vineyard, with some fruit from Black Sage; aged 18 months in French and American oak. Forward blue and black fruit notes precede a complex and layered spicy mid-palate defined by classic meaty and gamey notes of blackberry and anise supported by approachable tannins through a lingering, spicy finish. (TP) QUAILS’ GATE THE CONNEMARA 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($72)
A blend of 40% Cabernet Franc blended with 30% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from estate vineyards throughout the valley, aged 18 months in French oak. Upfront inviting aromas of concentrated red berries with earthy and tobacco undertones before lush and juicy but well structured, elegant palate accented with savoury and spice notes with mineral hints in the lingering end. (TP)
AUSTRALIA SIDEWOOD MAPPINGA SHIRAZ 2015, ADELAIDE HILLS ($50)
Opaque purple in colour with a spicy, cedary, herbal, blackberry bouquet. Full-bodied, rich and full on the palate with ripe blackberry and blackcurrant flavours and lively, balancing acidity. (TA) CANADA ROAD 13 JACKPOT SYRAH 2016, OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($44)
Dense purple-black in colour with an inky, herbal, spicy nose of liquorice, blackberries and vanilla oak. Full-bodied, sweet, spicy blackberry flavour, intense and concentrated but nicely balanced. (TA) CEDARCREEK PLATINUM DESERT RIDGE MERLOT 2015, OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($50)
Deep ruby in colour with a savoury, black cherry nose lifted with a floral note and a hint of pencil shavings. Medium-bodied,
MARTIN’S LANE SIMES VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2014, OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($100)
Ruby colour with a nose of violets and black raspberries. Medium-bodied, dry, poised and elegant flavours of raspberry with a long finish. A juicy wine to give Burgundy a run for its money. (TA) FRANCE JOSEPH DROUHIN 2015, RULLY ROUGE AC ($38)
Opens with deeply scented cherry and raspberry with a dusting of cinnamon on the nose leading the way for lusciously fresh cherry and red berry flavours with a dash of spice and a light splash of milk chocolate. Better with another year or two in the cellar to give primary acidity a bit more time to round out. (SW) J.L. CHAVE SÉLECTION OFFERUS SAINT-JOSEPH 2015,RHONE VALLEY ($40)
Generous fruit with firm yet fine tannins and seductive notes of smoked
meat, iron, prune, violet, white pepper and hot stone. Nice depth and texture with lingering finish. Tempting to drink now with game meat but will reward whoever puts it down in the cellar for 5 to 6 years. (MB) ITALY SEREGO ALIGHIERI VAIO ARMARON 2011, DOCG AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO ($85)
From a single vineyard still owned by the aristocratic descendants of Dante. Clear, opaquely deep garnet. Robust nose that clearly reflects the aging in cherry wood sourced from local orchards, with date and fig aromas and a tinge of maple syrup. The extracted black cherry flavour is also evident on the palate, along with ripe blackberry. Tannins are still prominent but the fruit won’t improve, so this should be consumed reverently over the next year. I have not had a better Amarone. (RL)* UNITED STATES BORNE OF FIRE THE BURN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016, COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASHINGTON STATE ($35)
Attractively perfumed blackcurrant, blackberry, clove and a whiff of tannic astringency on the nose. Rich blackberry flavours take over on the palate with background blackcurrant, firm tannic structure and still forward acidity. This is a big wine with the components to age well. Give it another 3 to 5 years in the cellar. (SW) LA CREMA RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2015, SONOMA COUNTY ($50)
Deep purple-ruby colour. Spicy plum bouquet with evident oak at the moment. Medium-bodied, dry, well-extracted sweet plum with balancing acidity. (TA) SPRING VALLEY KATHERINE CORKRUM CABERNET FRANC 2014, WALLA WALLA VALLEY, WASHINGTON STATE ($80)
This is a huge mouthful of rich dark plum, blackberry, plush chewy tannins and a hit of liquorice on the back palate. Powerful and enormously concentrated, it seems almost a meal in itself but will pair best with robust, full-flavoured braised red meat dishes. (SW) MARCH/APRIL 2019 31
BUYING GUIDE RECOMMENDED UNITED STATES LOMPOC WINE CO. PINOT NOIR 2013, SANTA RITA HILLS, CALIFORNIA ($39)
Expressive aromas of wild strawberries, black cherries, wet earth and rose petals with supple tannins. I love the fact that this wine is only 12.5%. Charming on its own but a delicious match with grilled salmon or roasted chicken. (MB)
BEFORE, DURING & AFTER DINNER POLI ELISIR CAMOMILLA, VENETO, ITALY ($62)
Grappa infused with macerated chamomile flowers and with the addition of sugar produces this ethereal and seamless liqueur that is incredibly balanced with no edges. Elegant with beautiful intensity and a deliciously long finish. This could easily replace your evening tea. (GB) CAPEZZANA VIN SANTO DI CARMIGNANO RISERVA 2009, TUSCANY, ITALY ($74/375 ML)
Rich, intense and mouth-coating but incredibly fresh and lively. Aromas and flavours of dried apricots, orange peel and almonds with a finish that lasts well beyond the final swallow. Perfect balance between sweetness and acidity with amazing harmony. The predominantly Trebbiano grapes are dried for several months, then fermented and 32 MARCH/APRIL 2019
aged for more than 5 years in wooden casks made of chestnut, oak, cherry and mulberry. (GB) JAMESON CASKMATES IPA EDITION, IRELAND, ($39.95)
The newest edition in the Jameson Caskmates IPA series, they aged an Irish Pale Ale in whiskey casks, then aged the whiskey in the same casks to soak in the flavour notes of the beer. The result is a whiskey with some pome fruit and citrus notes, and rich vanilla and caramel flavours. Sip it on the rocks, or if you’re feeling adventurous, try it alongside your favourite Pale Ale and see what flavour notes they have in common. (TL) RAMPUR SINGLE MALT WHISKY, INDIA ($99)
Floral and fruity on the nose with a touch of toffee and vanilla, flavours of stone fruit, spice, nuts, honey, cocoa and citrus peel with an elegant, soft finish. (GB) OLD RIP VAN WINKLE STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKY AGED 25 YEARS, KENTUCKY, UNITED STATES ($1800)
Guests attending a Toronto tasting of amazing Sazerac bourbons (Buffalo Trace, 1792 Sweet Wheat, Blanton’s Single Barrel, E.H. Taylor Four Grain), with Buffalo Trace Distillery Master Blender Drew Mayville, got a treat all bourbon lovers would kill for: a taste of Old Rip Van Winkle - one of the world’s most coveted whiskies. Not only that, but the 25 Year Old is the oldest expression yet. Just over 700 bottles were released … worldwide. Even Mayville worried that a wheated bourbon of this age wouldn’t work out. Well, it did. In a rather spectacular fashion. Ripe, nutty caramel, marmalade/orange chocolate,
old polished wood, browned butter, some candied banana, worn leather and just a hint of acetate on a nose that reminded me of a fantastic aged rum rather than a whisky. Silky smooth in the mouth, with Christmas cake, exotic spices, and a long, warm, complex finish that I could still taste a full 10 minutes after the pour was gone. Pretty unforgettable stuff. (TS) LAKE OF THE WOODS BREWING CO. LAKESIDE KOLSCH, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
This medium-gold ale has a carbonic bite, and aromas of under-ripe apple and saltine crackers. It’s a smooth drinking brew with low bitterness and delicate flavours of green apples, honey and grainy cereal. Pair it with simple sandwiches and fries; the grainy notes will find harmony while the bubbles will cut through the crispy, salty potatoes. (TL) NORTH AMERICAN CRAFT HOPERATION SMASH, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
Crafted by venerated brewmaster Paul Dickey, this IPA’s juicy, tropical fruit hop flavours are balanced by a robust caramel character. Pouring a deep, bright orange with a fluffy white head, expect aromas of pine, guava and pineapple. This ale has big bitterness, but it’s smooth-drinking. Sip it ice cold. (TL) COLLINGWOOD BREWERY KINGPOST ESB, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
Pouring a sparkling copper hue, this bitter is all about balance. Aromas of toasted whole wheat bread, Digestive biscuits and a hint of coffee marry up with floral and citrusy hop notes. On the palate, flavours of caramel and toffee shine through. Serve with hearty winter dishes like stew, chicken and lentils or curries. (CL)
KICHESIPPI BEER CO. BRISTOL STOUT, OTTAWA, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
Aromas of dark-roasted coffee and Dairy Milk Fruit & Nut Bar mark the nose of this milk stout from Ottawa’s Kichesippi Beer Company. The sip begins with dark chocolate moving to a sweet, creamy centre before finishing dry and roasty. The lush, creamy mouthfeel makes it a perfect pairing with dessert instead of coffee. (CL) DOMINION CITY BREWING CO. EARL GREY MARMALADE SAISON, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
Infused with Earl Grey tea and fresh-zested oranges, the aroma of this saison begins with orange marmalade. As it warms, notes of bergamot and black pepper come to the forefront of this hazy, orange ale carbonated like a fine champagne. (CL) INDIE ALEHOUSE BREAKFAST PORTER, ONTARIO ($4/500 ML)
Grab this porter from Toronto brewpub Indie Alehouse to take the edge off those cold winter nights. Made with a hefty amount of oats to add creaminess to the body, the thick oats also smooth out the 7.2% ABV ale. Notes of dark chocolate and medium-roast coffee mark the aroma and palate. Serve with a mild blue cheese and charcuterie or make it the centre of a beer brunch. (CL) SALTBOX BREWING COMPANY HOLY MACKEREL PALE ALE, MAHONE BAY, NOVA SCOTIA ($4/473 ML).
Using German Huell Melon hops exclusively, this blonde amber ale shows a creamy persistent head with yeasty, nutty and floral hoppy aromas. Fruity and nutty malt flavours are balanced by a firm hit of bitterness on the refreshingly dry finish. (SW) NINE LOCKS BREWING CO. UNFILTERED IPA, DARTMOUTH, NOVA SCOTIA ($4/473 ML).
Shows hazy light amber in the glass with green herbal hoppy and nutty malt aromas. Citrus and malty flavours with medium weight in the mouth finish with typical IPA bitter hop character and smoky dryness. (SW) COLLECTIVE ARTS BREWING SURROUND SOUND DDH IPA, ONTARIO ($5/473 ML)
If you’re a fan of juicy, hardly bitter Dou-
ble IPAs, then 2019 might just be your best beer-drinking year yet! Collective Arts recently launched their DDH (double dry-hopped) IPA series and they’ll release a new DIPA every quarter, each seasoned with a different mix of hops. This one pours with a whipped creamlike cap that adorns the glass and creates intricate lacing with every sip. Aromas of fresh basil, orange Creamsicle and overripe honeydew melon mark the nose. The ale is medium-bodied and creamy with an aftertaste that’s both herbal and fruity without any sticky bitterness. As a devotee of the style, the first release in the series is the best that I’ve tasted this side of the border. (TL) PEOPLE’S PINT TIMELORD AMERICAN IPA, TORONTO, ONTARIO ($7/500 ML)
Pouring a vibrant rust colour with a fluffy head, this unfiltered IPA is an homage to Bell’s Two Hearted Ale. Like this beloved beer, People’s Pint’s ale is all about balance: a silky and lush caramel backbone is accented by notes of strawberry jam, and a firm pine-like hop bitterness. (CL) PARTAKE BREWING NON-ALCOHOLIC BLONDE LAGER, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($45/24-PACK)
A blonde lager is the newest release from this Canadian alcohol-free brewery. It pours a clear, brassy gold with tiny bubbles dancing up the glass. Toasted bread and crackers balance hoppy notes of carnations and earth with touch of crisp apple. The malt character takes centre stage and the bitterness is soft and round. The fuller body gives it an edge over other beers in the category and like Partake’s other releases, this one is low calorie, too. (TL) BEAU’S ALL NATURAL BREWING GRUMPIEST OF ALL TIME, ONTARIO ($7.95/600 ML)
Bock beers are sturdy, malty lagers originating from the town of Einbeck in Germany but made famous in Munich in the 1600s. Once a regular spring staple of Ontario’s microbreweries, this beer style has fallen out of favour with craft beer drinkers recently and is tough to hunt down. All the more reason to seek out this Urbock (original bock) from the organic, family-owned outfit of Beau’s All Natural Brewing Company. They take German beer styles seriously and pull them off
with flare. Look for this dark, warming and richly malty beer style pouring at bars in February and for sale at the Beau’s retail store in Vankleek Hill. (CL) PARALLEL 49 BREWING COMPANY CRAFT LAGER, BC ($22.29/12 X 355 ML)
Brilliantly clear and pale golden, this Munich Helles-style lager is clean and refreshing. On the nose, whiffs of crusty baguette and dried grass with some light sweetness of the palate. The spicy hop flavours lend the beer a snappy finish. A well-crafted, balanced lager, it’s no surprise that this took home a gold at the 2016 Canadian Brewing Awards. (TL) COLLECTIVE ARTS BREWING PINEAPPLE TEPACHE BERLINER WEISSE, HAMILTON, ONTARIO ($3.95/473 ML)
A riff on the Tepache, a fermented pineapple liqueur with spices, it pours a glowing orange with a loose, quickly dissipating, bright white cap. On the nose, spicy whiffs reminiscent of dry ginger then lots of fresh cut pineapple, with cinnamon and nutmeg coming to the forefront as it warms. On the sip, a whisper of spice then juicy pineapple floods the palate. The beer finishes tart and semi-dry, with lingering spice and fruit. Drinks like an upside down spiced pineapple cake. (TL) MUSKOKA BREWERY EBB & FLOW SESSION SOUR, BRACEBRIDGE, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
This new dry-hopped sour takes its “session” moniker seriously. Clocking in at 2.4% it’s softly sour with a citrusy hop kick. A glittery, pale gold brew, it’s effervescent and tart, with a pleasant low level of breadiness. A great go-to for sour lovers who want to lower their alcohol consumption, and perfect to stock for parties. (TL) MERIT BREWING NOWHERE IMPERIAL STOUT, HAMILTON, ONTARIO ($8/500 ML)
A robust, complex Imperial stout with rich aromas of bakers chocolate, vanilla pods and a dark roast coffee. Pouring a deep, black treacle, it’s warming and full-bodied, and leaves lingering flavours of dark chocolate and coffee on the tongue. Buy two, the brewery recommends cellaring one for later, in a cool, dark place, while I recommend cracking one open with pals on a cold, winter night. (TL) MARCH/APRIL 2019 33
AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER
VAN GOGH’S EAR ANTHONY VON MANDL, THE PROPRIETOR OF MISSION HILL FAMILY WINERY IN THE OKANAGAN, IS A VISIONARY — A VISIONARY WITH A TOUCH OF WHIMSY WHO NEVER DOES ANYTHING BY HALVES. He also has a penchant for hir-
ing antipodean winemakers: John Simes, Darryl Brooker, Phil McGahan and Shane Munn are all from Down Under. In 1996, von Mandl commissioned American architect Tom Kundig to remodel Mission Hill Winery at a cost of $25 million. Kundig created a temple of wine fit for Dionysus himself. The bell-towered winery with classical lines has become a magnet for the region. Its 60-seat Terrace restaurant, overlooking the lake, was named by Travel & Leisure magazine as one of the five best winery restaurants in the world. At the 2013 Decanter World Wine Awards in London, Mission Hill’s Martin’s Lane Pinot Noir 2011 won the International Trophy for Best Pinot Noir in the World in the under-£15 price category. (Martin’s Lane is an homage label to von Mandl’s late father Martin. The Lane, he explains, “came from the double row of poplars on the winding road to our vineyard home.”) 34 MARCH/APRIL 2019
Never one to rest on his laurels, von Mandl then went on to acquire CedarCreek Winery in Kelowna in 2014; the following year he sold the rights to Mike’s Hard Lemonade, Palm Bay, Okanagan Premium Ciders and Stanley Park Beers to Labatt’s for a reported US$350 million. Soon after that, von Mandl embarked on his most ambitious project, creating a dedicated winery for Martin’s Lane which produces only two varietals — Pinot Noir and Riesling. The project is sited next door to CedarCreek. I have, in the course of writing about wine for some 40 years, never seen such a spectacular winery. Again, designed by Tom Kundig, “the building’s form,” writes the architect, “is conceived as a fracture down the middle, opening the interior spaces to daylight while one side follows the slope down the hillside and the other follows the horizon.” That’s architect-speak for eye-popping. Now for the von Mandl whimsy. Outside the winery, on its side by the entrance, is a massive bronze sculpture of Van Gogh’s head. Injured ear to the ground. Why, you might ask? Well, von Mandl tells it this way: “The Pinot Noir grape is the result of a remarkable series of genetic mutations that have evolved over generations. There is an interesting coincidence that both Pinot Noir and red-headed humans, another genetic mutation, both represent only approximately 1.9% of their respective populations.” Intrigued by this coincidence, he commissioned artist Douglas Coupland to create a sculptural project entitled Redhead to celebrate the opening of the winery. Finding the red-headed von Gogh’s doppelganger involved a worldwide search. The Van Gogh theme is extended to Martin’s Lane large format bottles — each has a large plastic ear adhered to the glass. Now all of this would just be expensive window dressing were it not for the fact that Martin’s Lane winemaker, New Zealander Shane Munn, is producing some of the best Riesling and Pinot Noir I have tasted in Canada. The reason for this massive investment? “My vision for Martin’s Lane,” says von Mandl, “is to put the Okanagan on the world Pinot Noir and Riesling map, next to the top estates of the Côte d’Or, and Alsace, Rheingau and Mosel.” × ILLUSTRATION: ROBB MIRSKY, WWW.ROBBMIRSKY.COM
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Classic Cabernet Sauvignon. Currant, blackberry, cigar box with touches of chocolate, cedar and pencil lead. Full flavored & just so damn good. I should raise the price. - Charles Smith